How to Varnish a Wooden Runabout
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2022
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In this video I cover all aspects of varnishing your wooden runabout so you will have great successes. This is the method I have used for years with outstanding results on some of the most collectable boat in the world. This method can also be used when varnishing about anything.
Thanks for tuning into my channel! I know from experience that getting started and working through a restoration of an antique or classics runabout can be a daunting task and sometimes you do not know where to start. You may also find that you just get stuck on finding out how to complete a task you have never done before. Well, you have come to the right place! My channel is designed to help you get through the restoration and give you step by step instructions along with some tips and trick to get your task done and enjoying your boat out on the water. If you have any questions or want to see a specific video, please leave me a description of what you are interested in and I will try to answer them. Have a great day and keep restoring!. Thank you for watching!!!
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This video was not paid for by outside persons or manufacturers.
No gear was supplied to me for this video.
The content of this video and my opinions were not reviewed or paid for by any outside persons.
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Hey, just found your channel. I've been a fan of these runabout boats for quite a while now but there's sadly very few youtube channels about them. Glad to see your work, keep it up! You have a new subscriber.
CAN'T WAIT TO GO THROUGH THESE PROCESSES. THANKS MIKE.
FYI, If you add 2 tablespoons of the 120 brushing thinner to your open can of varnish before closing the lid, Do not stir just let it sit on top of the varnish, it will keep the varnish from skimming over and be ready for the next use.
Great video Mike! Thanks for sharing!
Great demo - thanks.
Great job. The woodworking side is more of my thing, but thanks for the video's.
Thanks for the great information Mike,
You have great work ethic, that's nice to see when you are giving your tutorials. Neat and organized is such an asset to your end result. Thanks again.
I appreciate that!
Thanks for the great video. Sure would have liked to see you vanishing the hull and transom and how runs are avoided. Now ...why would I ask that? ;)
Thanks for another great video.
many thanks mike warner voelpert
1:47 l have just had built for me a 14ft cedarstrip boat from Giesler boats,Powasson, ont.
I am going to varnish it and wonder if you can help me figure out how much vanish l will need for one coat inside and how much for one coat outside for future reference. Thanks mike
I love this video Mike. It takes all of the guess work out of varnishing a wooden boat. One question for you: How do you go about cutting the rollers?
We use a bandsaw and cut them to 3 inches. Thank you for watching.
Good morning,
I am on my final coats and keep getting small bubbles that do not go away any thoughts?
Ralph
The small bubbles are most likely dust in the finish. That is why we wet sand and buff on almost every boat.
Quality video with great instruction. Thank you. What are your thoughts on using spar urethane vs varnish for harsh salt water conditions?
I have only used true varnish with UV in the varnish.
Great Video(s) and attention to detail. Would like to know what determines when a plank or piece of hull material needs to be replaced? It seems like epoxy can fix anything but would like to know when to make the call on replacing a piece of hull material as I am new at restoring wooden boats. Thanks!
We only use epoxy to bond 2 pieces of new wood together and if the wood is questionable, we replace it. If the wood in question is only cosmetic and full thickness, we will try other methods like bleaching and sanding. If the wood is structural and compromised in any way we replace it.
Great video as always. How much varnish do you use on say a 20' runabout start to finish vs. just doing a refresh coat to start the boating season?
On a 20' deck and sides from bare wood we would go through about 20 cans. If it was a refresher coat we would use about 5.
Hey mike love the channel! New to all of this i have started on my 39 utility 320 the sides of the boat and relized ive got some other work to do before i seal the old varnish and apply my varnish. Wont get to it until spring now. Is it ok to leave it sanded for the winter without re sealing the old varnish? Thanks
It sould be fine as long as you keep it out of the weather.
Mike,
Great video. I'm up to varnish coat number 18 and I seem to be having trouble getting the varnish to flatten out. There are both brush marks and some small orange peel formations. I don't know it I putting it on too thin or too thick or if the varnish is too thick. I'm using the Pettit High Build 2015 and the Ultra clear on the sides now that I have the decals on. I'm nervous about thinning since I was warned not to thin. The shop is between 60 - 65 degrees with 25% relative humidity. I sand, clean and wipe down with Pettit the day before and the tack just before varnishing. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
You can add a cap full or 2 to the varnish and see if that helps. You may need to go with a nice Purdy fine hair brush for the final coat if you are not going to wet sand and buff. Let me know if that helps.
@@MikeGreenStudioWorks Thanks Mike. I've tried the thinning with no help. I started with a Purdy fine
hair brush on the early coats but switched to foam.
Great video. Thanks for sharing. How long do you usually wait between varnishing and sanding? I just varnished, and after a few days, the varnish is still sticky.
With Petit high-build varnish I could easily recoat in 24 hours and usually waited 48 hours after a coat to sand. Sometimes waited a little longer if my sandpaper (arbanet like mike recommends) was gumming up. There are many variables so its a challenge to fully relate to your process and situation...
That really depends on temp and humidity and the varnish you’re using. With our shop around 65 degrees and using Pettit Captains 1015 we can usually coat one every day when building coats and only scotch-brite in between. When we sand, we usually wait 48 hours and when we wet sand a buff we let the boat dry for about a week. I will try to cover more on that on the next how to video.
Do you cut any layers of the varnish?.
I am thinking you are asking about thinning the varnish. The clear sealer we use right over the stain is all ready thinned. Then we thin the first couple of coats of varnish with about 20-30% with thinner. The key is to get as much varnish on the boat so we stop thinning coats on about the 3rd or 4th coat.
Do you thin the Captains 1015 Varnish? If so (using the Pettit 120 thinner) what is the ratio? Thank you
After we seal the boat with 2 to 3 coats of Pettit Clear Sealer we then thin the first 2 coats with about 20% 120 brushing thinner. After that the grain is full enough we go to full strenght varnish. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
When you varnish a new section and roll/brush back to the previous section, is there a waiting period ?
Oh my, was looking at buying a 16' wood 1960 runabout that needed a facelift. Oh my this is going to be one helluva project. Question, do you strain your varnish before putting it in the roller pan? In case of sediment?
We do not, we use it streight out of the can. Stain the wood first and then coat the wood. Thanks for watching!
how would you recommend washing these boats after being in salt water? also do you have a video on best boat trailers for wooden boats?
I would spray it down really well with water to remove and dried salt scum and then use dish soap and water.
@@MikeGreenStudioWorks fantastic. thank you
Can you do a video on caulking
At some point I can but right now we do not have any boats that need caulking.
Can you tell us why you prefer a foam brush to a hairbrush
It cost way less for the foam brushes and you do not nweed to spend time cleaning your brush all the time. We do use a nice bristle brush for paint and finish coats of varnish when we are not going to wet sand and buff back to a shine.
I haven't heard you mention dry time between your build coats, 24 hrs? Any specifics on varnishes you prefer over others? Or does that pertain to client preferences? Just a thought
At least 24 hours between coats. If we sand we like the varnish to dry a few days. We use Pettit Captians varnish here at the shop. You can find most of the prducts we use here. www.mgstudioworks.com
@@MikeGreenStudioWorks I have clients that I allow to be Fussy! Ergo use Captains flag ship And others! Gonna butcher this one LeToinkinwa! Lol I enjoy all of them and more into traditional varnish and not the new varieties, stay with what's worked fine for 50 years!
You didn't talk about what type of sander you used with the mesh 320 paper.
Mesh in hand, mesh on block, electric sander?
⛵️
We use the Mirka block that hooks to a vacuum, you can find it on my website. www.mgstudioworks.com/
Curious as to what steps are taken when sealing(?) and varnishing the interior of an old cabin cruiser. Would the varnish be rolled on, or sprayed??
We roll and tip all varnish. e seal with 2 coats of Pettit sealer 2018 and then thin the first couple of coats of varnish a bit the go full strength to build coats. Thanks for watching!
@@MikeGreenStudioWorks Do you also thin the first couple of coats when applying to exterior? If yes, what do you recommend for amount of thinning when using Pettit captain's varnish? Thank you
I was always taught to use denatured alcohol to wipe down rather than thinner. The alcohol evaporates quickly. Also to use diaper cloths because paper towels can leave fibers behind. Is there a reason to avoid the alcohol in favor of the thinner?
I think the thinner that is compatible and the same brand as the varnish is best. We know it won't effect the varnish when applied, we use it to make sure that any grease from our hands does not cause fisheyes. We use paper towel (Costco or Brawny) because of cost and easily disposed of. A good paper towel won't leave fiders behind and if they do its minimal. We also taxk cloth after so that picks up any dust or fibers left behind. Thanks for watching.
Have you used Epifanes varnish? Locally (Southwest Harbor, Me) that is the varnish of choice for high quality work. In my experience Epifanes gives better gloss than Captains and lasts longer. One other question. When you get to a "finish coat", do you sand out the varnish with 1,500 then 2,500 and buff it back to a super high gloss? That is the only way I have found to generate a high gloss, 100% dust free finish. Yes, I know there is never an actual finish varnish coat.
I have used it many times on larger boats that are in saltwater and may get used in harsher conditions. The stuff is expensive, and it really doesn't flow good out of the can. We do wet sand and buff and will be coming out with a video on that in the future. Thanks for watching.
Should there be a concern with dust. It appears that you are finishing in an area which has other operations which may generate air borne contaminates.
12 inch roller would be better!
I've been varnishing boats for 40 years. As soon as I saw the foam brush in the intro, I turned it off.
I lost you at foam roller and brush.
I know you're a boat expert, but I'm a scholar for the LORD. Ask me anything about HIM so you will know HIM and be in HIS Rest.
use a tack cloth
at the 7.39 minute mark I used a tack cloth which we do on every coat. Did you not watch the whole video?
your brush isn't loading up, its breaking down cause its the wrong choice to use
Its not breaking down. What brush should I be using?
after 3 coats of finish 320
fourth coat 1000 wet
5th coat 1500 wet
that's what us boaters prefer
This boater says that won't last, 2 coats of varnish is as thick as a piece of paper and thats without sanding.