I have straight compound lines on my garage ceiling and down the walls, bugs the wife! I'll start feathering it first from now on! 👍 Appreciate you sharing your tips and so will my wife!
Excellent video showing in clear terms how to get a professional finish. I followed your instructions to sand & polish a live edge bathroom countertop finished with Epiphanes and the result was just about perfect. Thank you!
I am currently restoring a 1957 Scottie Craft 21ft mahogany cabin cruiser, and am at the varnishing stage on the interior. It was really cool to see I use lterally the exact same method for cut & buff on auto & motorcycle paint(mostly polyurethanes)!😉
Amazing technique. I spent the last 3 months slowly varnishing all the teak on my sailboat up from bare wood. Did way too many coats as was always hoping for one which would magically not have dust nibs and could just stop without polishing. Don't bother - just go to 6+ coats, and then use the technique Mike shows here and it'll be perfect.
Love your videos-varnishing my old Wianno Senior keeps me sane. Can I ask why you prefer Petit 1015 Captains varnish over Epifanes high gloss? Is it because the amber color is richer and it dries faster? I have used Epifanes for 50 years(I am 81) and fear changing without a good reason. That said my passion for varnish over mahogany is the beautiful orange -red Amber color and depth of shine. Thank you!
Wow ! that's super impressive. Is it possible to use the same products and technique to buff a wooden cabinet (furniture) ? Thank's for sharing this video, it's very informative.
@@MikeGreenStudioWorks Geez Mike, thank you so much for the reply, not every You Tubers reply to comments or questions. To be more precise i am in the process of restoring a 1937 RCA-Victor Vaccum Tube radio console. It took me 8 months to learn basic tube electronics and completely re do the chassis. I've been working on the cabinet for 3 weeks now and did the usual stripping, sanding, grain filling and re sanding and staining before applying the varnish. For this project i didn't see myself doing a shellac french polish finish because of all the mouldings and right angles everywhere. I couldn't see being able to use the ''Rubber'' evenly on those parts. Since i don't have a proper spray booth and have to work outside i also eliminated spraying some sort of top coat. So my only other option was varnish. I realize now i could have done much better using a roller and foam brush as you demonstrated, but i wasn't aware of the technique. So i'm thinking of doing a wet sanding first and proceed with compound and polisher afterwards. I've seen a few restorers use wet sanding with amazing results on radio cabinets, but they all started with a sprayed top coat, so this is my concern, i mean can i do a wet sanding over an oil base varnish, would it ruin the finish ? Anyway i subscribed to your channel even though i don't own a boat. This looks too interesting to pass, at least the way you explain everything . Thank's for taking the time to make these videos and share them with the community. Well done !
@@raymondmenard5444 I'm pretty sure you can wet sand, we use a tounge oil varnish that would be about the same as a standard oil base. Give it a try and let us know how it comes out. Thanks for watching!
@@MikeGreenStudioWorks I'm absolutely going to try it, right after this last coat cures good n hard. Thank's for your help Mike. I'll let you know for sure wether i succeed or fail miserably 🙂
Wonderful demonstration. I have a 55 CC Cruser with varnished decks that run up against varnished rails, and cormers. I have avoided polishing because I dont know what technique can be used to polish is a corner? Do you have any recommendations for that? Thank you !
I liked your video on buffing a varnished wood boat. A few questions: you start by saying the varnished wood had already been sanded with 320 grit, followed by 1500 grit. I may have missed some details here, but please elaborate on exactly what grit paper you used, in sequence. Do you bother with 3000 grit? I am trying to get a "show quality" finish on a wood veneer dashboard for my car and am not satisfied with the finish so far. Please advise. Thank you. Very well done video.
So we sand every 5 coats with 320 to get the varnish flat over the process of aplling 15 coats. We then apply the name and numbers in usually gold leaf and then apply 5 coats over it. We then sand with 1500 grit wet and then 2000 grit wet. Then we buff back to a shine. No need to sand with 3000 as the buffing will get out the 2000 grit scratches. Hope this helps.
Mike, the final step following polishing includes adding the stripes with tape. The painted stripes are applied "on top of" the varnish (not protected by the varnish like the lettering and MC numbers), is that correct?
Great video, Mike! Any tips on how to address a scuff where the varnish is still intact, just dulled? Sand and polish like this or is there a better approach?
You could try it, we have done that before. If it is deep or just below the surface you can scuff it up and add layers of varnish, wet sand flat and then buff it back to a shine.
@@MikeGreenStudioWorks Thank you - will do! Btw, tried to get to your online store and got an SSL error. I’ll try again in a bit. Thanks for all you do!
Not that I know half the stuff you do, but wouldn't a trigger that regulates speed make it a bit more convenient? I've gone for a battery powered Dewalt polisher and the trigger works very nicely.
I restore rowing shells and haven’t wet sanded varnish because the hardness of the varnish seemed too soft to do so. What varnish do you use that allows you to wet sand and buff?
Good to hear from you. You can find the stuff you need on my website www.mgstudioworks.com/ The white pad is used for cutting the finish first and the black pad is softer then the white.
@@MikeGreenStudioWorks what kind of varnish are you using? More importantly, are you doing this as a yearly procedure on this boat, or is this something you're doing after a strip job?
Thanks Mike. The wife and I just had 2 questions. 1- Mike Costner? 2- what is with the sign “no spitting in the boats”? Wouldn’t that go without saying?
Not sure about question 1. Those signs are replicas of signs that were hanging in the Original Chris Craft factory. I guess there was a problem and needed signs.
Hey Mike... this is a perfect tutorial for me... I am finishing up the bottom and sides of my 1950 Sportsman Utility. I decided to do the gold leaf lettering myself and was going to spray the finish but am having better luck with roll and tip... but then letting it harden and wetsand and polish. The Gold Lettering was hard to find resources on.. (I know you have a trusted sign painter) I did it myself in three stages if you are interested. ruclips.net/video/yF0FZB6jwXs/видео.html ruclips.net/video/xjOAUDA6AP4/видео.html ruclips.net/video/kUURDEgNvkw/видео.html I think that with your guidance, I ought to get the Transom perfect. Thanks!
I'm sick to death of all the best products that you are using, especially when good o,l America. I'm in Scotland and I cannot find any suppliers for any 3m masking tape, Maguire's products, or any good quality materials to prep my boat. We have an ASDA which is supposed to be a Walmart that has Fek all. Other places are "trade " only or if you're connected. ! It's taken me several weeks just to get wet n dry standard paper that'll probably tear soggy style. You guys have practically everything on hand. Therefore all these "helpful" vids just frustrate me.
I have straight compound lines on my garage ceiling and down the walls, bugs the wife!
I'll start feathering it first from now on! 👍
Appreciate you sharing your tips and so will my wife!
Excellent video showing in clear terms how to get a professional finish. I followed your instructions to sand & polish a live edge bathroom countertop finished with Epiphanes and the result was just about perfect. Thank you!
Great video Mike.
Very helpful. Very clear, step by step instructions.
excellent all the insights are wonderful
GREAT video. Thank you
Mike, thanks for the details…it’s important for new restorers like me. Thanks again!
Great work.
Love the detailed instructions.
Mike thankyou so much for this video
I’m not working on boats but with varnishes and need them polishing to a show shine .
Best regards from the UK 😊
I am currently restoring a 1957 Scottie Craft 21ft mahogany cabin cruiser, and am at the varnishing stage on the interior. It was really cool to see I use lterally the exact same method for cut & buff on auto & motorcycle paint(mostly polyurethanes)!😉
Amazing technique. I spent the last 3 months slowly varnishing all the teak on my sailboat up from bare wood. Did way too many coats as was always hoping for one which would magically not have dust nibs and could just stop without polishing. Don't bother - just go to 6+ coats, and then use the technique Mike shows here and it'll be perfect.
Great video!! Thanks!!
Thank you, very informative.
Thanks for this great video. Super helpful to me!
Awesome series! Thank you! No Century's? My dad had a 1958 Arabian- 30 made like 6 survive.
So that's how it's done ✅👍😮
Love your videos-varnishing my old Wianno Senior keeps me sane. Can I ask why you prefer Petit 1015 Captains varnish over Epifanes high gloss? Is it because the amber color is richer and it dries faster? I have used Epifanes for 50 years(I am 81) and fear changing without a good reason. That said my passion for varnish over mahogany is the beautiful orange -red Amber color and depth of shine. Thank you!
Wow ! that's super impressive. Is it possible to use the same products and technique to buff a wooden cabinet (furniture) ? Thank's for sharing this video, it's very informative.
Yes, absolutely, that is the process for some pianos.
@@MikeGreenStudioWorks Geez Mike, thank you so much for the reply, not every You Tubers reply to comments or questions. To be more precise i am in the process of restoring a 1937 RCA-Victor Vaccum Tube radio console. It took me 8 months to learn basic tube electronics and completely re do the chassis. I've been working on the cabinet for 3 weeks now and did the usual stripping, sanding, grain filling and re sanding and staining before applying the varnish. For this project i didn't see myself doing a shellac french polish finish because of all the mouldings and right angles everywhere. I couldn't see being able to use the ''Rubber'' evenly on those parts. Since i don't have a proper spray booth and have to work outside i also eliminated spraying some sort of top coat. So my only other option was varnish. I realize now i could have done much better using a roller and foam brush as you demonstrated, but i wasn't aware of the technique. So i'm thinking of doing a wet sanding first and proceed with compound and polisher afterwards. I've seen a few restorers use wet sanding with amazing results on radio cabinets, but they all started with a sprayed top coat, so this is my concern, i mean can i do a wet sanding over an oil base varnish, would it ruin the finish ? Anyway i subscribed to your channel even though i don't own a boat. This looks too interesting to pass, at least the way you explain everything . Thank's for taking the time to make these videos and share them with the community. Well done !
@@raymondmenard5444 I'm pretty sure you can wet sand, we use a tounge oil varnish that would be about the same as a standard oil base. Give it a try and let us know how it comes out. Thanks for watching!
@@MikeGreenStudioWorks I'm absolutely going to try it, right after this last coat cures good n hard. Thank's for your help Mike. I'll let you know for sure wether i succeed or fail miserably 🙂
Wonderful demonstration. I have a 55 CC Cruser with varnished decks that run up against varnished rails, and cormers. I have avoided polishing because I dont know what technique can be used to polish is a corner? Do you have any recommendations for that? Thank you !
We have a 3 inch buffing wheel that we use. 3M makes the littel pads and adapter that you may put in a drill.
I liked your video on buffing a varnished wood boat. A few questions: you start by saying the varnished wood had already been sanded with 320 grit, followed by 1500 grit. I may have missed some details here, but please elaborate on exactly what grit paper you used, in sequence. Do you bother with 3000 grit?
I am trying to get a "show quality" finish on a wood veneer dashboard for my car and am not satisfied with the finish so far. Please advise. Thank you. Very well done video.
So we sand every 5 coats with 320 to get the varnish flat over the process of aplling 15 coats. We then apply the name and numbers in usually gold leaf and then apply 5 coats over it. We then sand with 1500 grit wet and then 2000 grit wet. Then we buff back to a shine. No need to sand with 3000 as the buffing will get out the 2000 grit scratches. Hope this helps.
Mike, the final step following polishing includes adding the stripes with tape. The painted stripes are applied "on top of" the varnish (not protected by the varnish like the lettering and MC numbers), is that correct?
Yes, the paint we use is a marine enamel and made to be outside so no UV protection needed.
Is the sand paper made in the USA?
Great video, Mike! Any tips on how to address a scuff where the varnish is still intact, just dulled? Sand and polish like this or is there a better approach?
You could try it, we have done that before. If it is deep or just below the surface you can scuff it up and add layers of varnish, wet sand flat and then buff it back to a shine.
@@MikeGreenStudioWorks Thank you - will do! Btw, tried to get to your online store and got an SSL error. I’ll try again in a bit. Thanks for all you do!
Not that I know half the stuff you do, but wouldn't a trigger that regulates speed make it a bit more convenient? I've gone for a battery powered Dewalt polisher and the trigger works very nicely.
This is a vareable speed buffer.
I restore rowing shells and haven’t wet sanded varnish because the hardness of the varnish seemed too soft to do so. What varnish do you use that allows you to wet sand and buff?
We use Pettit Captians varnish. We apply the last coats one each day for 3 days and then let it sit and dry for about a week before wet sanding.
An expert
Hey Mike, good stuff here. I see that you are using both a white and charcoal foam pad. What is the difference and can you share the part numbers?
Good to hear from you. You can find the stuff you need on my website www.mgstudioworks.com/ The white pad is used for cutting the finish first and the black pad is softer then the white.
@@MikeGreenStudioWorks Cool. I just ordered a few things.
How long is recommend to wait between the last cost of varnish and buffing process?
We like to wait at least 3 days if your in about 65 degrees. A week is even better.
What's the reason for doing these steps, vs. just doing 2 final coats with a 400 wet sand inbetween?
When the varnish shrinks you will see the scratch marks for 400 grit.
@@MikeGreenStudioWorks what kind of varnish are you using? More importantly, are you doing this as a yearly procedure on this boat, or is this something you're doing after a strip job?
@@MikeGreenStudioWorks By the way you did a beautiful job on the boat regardless. Just trying to pick your brain.
Thanks Mike. The wife and I just had 2 questions.
1- Mike Costner?
2- what is with the sign “no spitting in the boats”? Wouldn’t that go without saying?
Not sure about question 1. Those signs are replicas of signs that were hanging in the Original Chris Craft factory. I guess there was a problem and needed signs.
those inside 90 degree corners are sketchy! edge of the pad hit dry and burbs through. ask me how i know lol
Why do I see that wood as if it had been painted brown?
Lighting, its correct red mahogany.
Hey Mike... this is a perfect tutorial for me... I am finishing up the bottom and sides of my 1950 Sportsman Utility. I decided to do the gold leaf lettering myself and was going to spray the finish but am having better luck with roll and tip... but then letting it harden and wetsand and polish. The Gold Lettering was hard to find resources on.. (I know you have a trusted sign painter) I did it myself in three stages if you are interested. ruclips.net/video/yF0FZB6jwXs/видео.html ruclips.net/video/xjOAUDA6AP4/видео.html ruclips.net/video/kUURDEgNvkw/видео.html I think that with your guidance, I ought to get the Transom perfect. Thanks!
Sign on wall: no spitting in boats?
Seriously? People need to be told this?
Yes, those signs are replicas of signs they had at the Chris Craft factory so I think there was a problem but not here in the shop.
Not sanding every layer is a serious mistake, that's a big part of why you are struggling to get the final finish you're after.
I'm sick to death of all the best products that you are using, especially when good o,l America. I'm in Scotland and I cannot find any suppliers for any 3m masking tape, Maguire's products, or any good quality materials to prep my boat. We have an ASDA which is supposed to be a Walmart that has Fek all. Other places are "trade " only or if you're connected. ! It's taken me several weeks just to get wet n dry standard paper that'll probably tear soggy style. You guys have practically everything on hand. Therefore all these "helpful" vids just frustrate me.
Sorry for your frustrations.
No Amazon? Order materials both in US and Germany and am counting on doing so when cruising the Med. Hope it works for you as well.
Great video. Thank you.