This video saved me big bucks. I wish I had the tools you do though. I had to cut off the posts and the bayonet lug with an old dull hacksaw and shape it with a wheel on my handheld drill. Primitive but I'd rather have a pinned gas block over a screw in any day.
Dude, that is totally awesome. what a great idea. I was just in a search for a low profile gas block when I came across this. gonna definitely do this.
Keylitho, what handguard did you use, and how long was it? looking to get a floating rail, on a budget buy, but wondering what would look best, to the very front or back a bit.
I put a 13" Troy Vtac rail on the rifle. I have another video on my channel of a Rock River Arms Build that I did it has the same rail. ruclips.net/video/myec9iuVl90/видео.html
Wow that is the best "black" results I have seen with the BC permablue! I did the mag tube on my Great Uncle's Montgomery Wards pump shotgun and it took A LOT of hard work to get it to be dark and not have streaks. Maybe because that cast steel is so porous compared to the extruded steel mag tube that I did.
Some types of metal just do not like cold blue no matter what process you use, no matter how well you degrease and prep the metal, no matter what cold blue product you use. I've cold blued a lot of stuff and IMO the type of metal determines the end result more than your process (within reason). I've seen people use the same dirty q tip to apply the blue that they used to degrease the item with, using cheap 70% isopropyl, and get great results. I've used degreased steel wool degreased with acetone to prep, a second wipe with degreased towels and acetone, applied with special bluing applicators that were pre-degreased with acetone, many applications, some with heat, the most expensive cold blue products out there, and it still looked crappy when done because that particular part was some type of metal that just didn't take the cold blue very well.
Yeah I’m about to do this. I just don’t want to spend more money on a gas block and a new barrel nut just so I can use a sight without the a2 getting in the way
Perfect! Thanks for sharing. Its too bad that they dont make them commercially available for purchase because (I didnt realize) the front sight pin holes are custom fit to a specific barrel, or so I've read. Great job. I don't all the nice tools you have but do you think a Drummel or Dremmil (whatever lol) can do this? Thanks again.
While you had it on your bench, you could have drilled and tapped it to make a low profile adjustable gas block. Great vid. How is that gun blue holding up?
Nice Vid. You should have used high heat paint and cured it tho. Did a SKS in it and a Mossberg 500 heatshield and it worked great. I used that same bluing allot and it doesn't last long on my VZ58. Need to redo it all the time.
thats awesome im getting ready to do this myself. im converting a service rifle competition rifle into a tactical marksman upper as a substitute for the fire fight carbine i have now. great video .
Okay that's cool but you shouldn't heat them up too much. I have a milwuakee hand held band saw that will probably be quicker and produce much less heat. I'm waiting for other parts for my Strike Industries 12" Red Handguard and I will be cutting the A2 Gas block as well because it's a much more straight forward and secure steal pinned gas block I agree. Baby steps on the grinder as to not heat it up too much.
As for heat.. I am pretty sure I have gotten that gas block much hotter from blasting through a bunch a mags.. I have ran a few thousand rounds through this rifle since this video.. no problems. I am still very happy I cut my sight down instead of buying a different gas block.
COOL hahaha Okay just saying most say don't get it hot. Gotta love the AR it's the small block chevy of rifles everybody make's something for it. Wasn't putting you down man, I can't wait to do mine.
Easiest way is to take your rifle to a qualified gun smith!!! Having the knowledge and the tools is worth the $$! Easier way is with the following > Wheeler Armorers bench block > a 5/32" nail set punch > a 2 or 3 pound sledge hammer > a VERY solid work surface or concrete floor > a little bit of penetrating oil on the pins doesn't hurt The Wheeler Armorers bench block is designed to hold the front sight tower in place while you remove or install the taper pins. Generally the taper pins are installed ( pressed in with a press!) from the manufacturers from the right side (Stoner designed / Colt). A few will do it from the left to right, but that is not industry standard!. Just make sure you know which side is the larger of the taper pins BEFORE trying to take them out!! Calipers help significantly when measuring them!!! Once you confirm how your pins are in, place the front sight on the block that is on a SOLID work surface, align the 5/32" nail set punch and hold it solid. One or two good solid hits will loosen the pins! Obviously be sure of your aim when swinging that hammer, and do not let the nail set slip off! Don't hit your hand either!!! ( Everyone does ONCE!) Now that you have the taper pins loosened, use a smaller straight punch to push them out the rest of the way.....MAKE sure you are using a smaller punch than the small end of the taper pin to push them out! To reinstall the pins....flip the barrel / front sight tower onto the opposite side of the bench block, make sure the front sight tower is as close to "straight" as possible...you should be able to see all the way through the taper pin holes...if not adjust the front sight tower until you can! I put a drop of oil on the small end of the taper pin before inserting it in. Tap the taper pins in until you feel resistance, switch to a larger punch to help seat the pins, finish up with the 5/32" nail set. Drive the pins in until there's an even amount of the pins sticking through both sides! Don't hit your hand or fingers! Sorry if this is too long of an explanation! (35 years experience: COLT / FN / GLOCK / Beretta / SIG SAUER certified Master Armorer)
LOL... No but this one is pinned to the barrel with roll pins and not just allen screws.. and Why not.. took longer to make the video than to actually make it..
Idontcare_626 Okay thank you for the tip. I am about to be doing the same project so I am happy for the tip. And I didn't think that I was going to get a reply seeing that your comment was from a year ago! That was fast!
This is one of the nicer grind jobs I’ve seen on RUclips .
This video saved me big bucks. I wish I had the tools you do though. I had to cut off the posts and the bayonet lug with an old dull hacksaw and shape it with a wheel on my handheld drill. Primitive but I'd rather have a pinned gas block over a screw in any day.
You would think there would be a shop that sold these cut down A2 front sights already in that state.
Dude, that is totally awesome. what a great idea. I was just in a search for a low profile gas block when I came across this. gonna definitely do this.
Thanks... But there are other's who have done this first.. I just didn't like the idea of a gas block that is not pined..
Keylitho, what handguard did you use, and how long was it? looking to get a floating rail, on a budget buy, but wondering what would look best, to the very front or back a bit.
I put a 13" Troy Vtac rail on the rifle. I have another video on my channel of a Rock River Arms Build that I did it has the same rail.
ruclips.net/video/myec9iuVl90/видео.html
Keylitho I'll check it out, thank you
Wow that is the best "black" results I have seen with the BC permablue! I did the mag tube on my Great Uncle's Montgomery Wards pump shotgun and it took A LOT of hard work to get it to be dark and not have streaks. Maybe because that cast steel is so porous compared to the extruded steel mag tube that I did.
Some types of metal just do not like cold blue no matter what process you use, no matter how well you degrease and prep the metal, no matter what cold blue product you use. I've cold blued a lot of stuff and IMO the type of metal determines the end result more than your process (within reason). I've seen people use the same dirty q tip to apply the blue that they used to degrease the item with, using cheap 70% isopropyl, and get great results.
I've used degreased steel wool degreased with acetone to prep, a second wipe with degreased towels and acetone, applied with special bluing applicators that were pre-degreased with acetone, many applications, some with heat, the most expensive cold blue products out there, and it still looked crappy when done because that particular part was some type of metal that just didn't take the cold blue very well.
8 years later lol, that looks AMAZING! love it!
Yeah I’m about to do this. I just don’t want to spend more money on a gas block and a new barrel nut just so I can use a sight without the a2 getting in the way
that blue stuff was crazy tho !
An old shot out barrel section would make a good handle to hold away from heat. Nice work. $$ saved.
Whats it look like re-assembled?
nice one looks awesome thank you for sharing that i am just about to do that to my AR gas block
Great job. Wish I had power tolls so I could do the same to my A2.
Looks real nice 👍
Perfect! Thanks for sharing. Its too bad that they dont make them commercially available for purchase because (I didnt realize) the front sight pin holes are custom fit to a specific barrel, or so I've read. Great job. I don't all the nice tools you have but do you think a Drummel or Dremmil (whatever lol) can do this? Thanks again.
I know this is 6 years late but I can confirm that a dremel works lol. Takes a lot longer but it worked for me anyway
Great job Always wanted to so how that blued stuff worked👍Have noticed the stinkier the stronger on finishes!
While you had it on your bench, you could have drilled and tapped it to make a low profile adjustable gas block. Great vid. How is that gun blue holding up?
Did you remember to use a spacer? The end cap that was there for the handguard also acted as a spacer to align the gas ports.
Ohio Outdoors
U don't need a spacer the pins handle a that
Great job! I'm about to do something similar right now.
good video. you probably saved alot of people money!
At first I was like NOOO what are you doing!!!!! Then I kept watching and was like... Nicce....
Nice job man. Looks really good, and other than some of your time and a bottle of cold bluing, very low cost.
+cavediverjc Yep... And I borrowed that bottle of Cold Blue from my Neighbor...LOL..!
What does it look like after re-assembling it?
That’s also more robust than a lot of the aftermarket gas blocks out there.
Nice Vid. You should have used high heat paint and cured it tho. Did a SKS in it and a Mossberg 500 heatshield and it worked great. I used that same bluing allot and it doesn't last long on my VZ58. Need to redo it all the time.
Very nice and to the point. Thanks!
Woulda been nice to see how ya took it off
Knock out the two tapered pins and the gas tube roll pin and remove the sight/gas block. Very easy.
Sweet job.
Took longer but with a 3' long piece of emory cloth you can round it down nice n purdy..😉
Man itd be cool to have a machine shop.
thats awesome im getting ready to do this myself. im converting a service rifle competition rifle into a tactical marksman upper as a substitute for the fire fight carbine i have now. great video .
Is this cheaper than just using a $10 low pro gas block?
If you have all the Tool's... Then Yes... But this is also pinned to the barrel and not just held with Allen bolts.
That turned out beautiful almost looks factory
Great video. This is what I'm going to do for sure. And I got the tools too 👍👍
Nice, very informative.
Does it have to be taken off the rifle to do this ???
Well I guess not but it makes it way easier to cut down and make it look nice..
Okay that's cool but you shouldn't heat them up too much. I have a milwuakee hand held band saw that will probably be quicker and produce much less heat. I'm waiting for other parts for my Strike Industries 12" Red Handguard and I will be cutting the A2 Gas block as well because it's a much more straight forward and secure steal pinned gas block I agree. Baby steps on the grinder as to not heat it up too much.
As for heat.. I am pretty sure I have gotten that gas block much hotter from blasting through a bunch a mags.. I have ran a few thousand rounds through this rifle since this video.. no problems. I am still very happy I cut my sight down instead of buying a different gas block.
COOL hahaha Okay just saying most say don't get it hot. Gotta love the AR it's the small block chevy of rifles everybody make's something for it. Wasn't putting you down man, I can't wait to do mine.
Very nice.
do you offer this as a service?
+Johnny Braden no I don't... sorry.
+Johnny Braden go to harbor fright and buy a angle grinder for 9.99
thank you great job
Wow! Cool vid
Thanks.
NICE Thanks for video. I,m doing the same thing. Hope my looks as good as yours.
Good thin is its under the handguard.. And depending on your rail it is pretty hidden.
I use the aluminum black. It’s works just as good on steal
you didn't show the difficult part, getting the darn taper pins out to remove the sight
Easiest way is to take your rifle to a qualified gun smith!!! Having the knowledge and the tools is worth the $$!
Easier way is with the following
> Wheeler Armorers bench block
> a 5/32" nail set punch
> a 2 or 3 pound sledge hammer
> a VERY solid work surface or concrete floor
> a little bit of penetrating oil on the pins doesn't hurt
The Wheeler Armorers bench block is designed to hold the front sight tower in place while you remove or install the taper pins.
Generally the taper pins are installed ( pressed in with a press!) from the manufacturers from the right side (Stoner designed / Colt).
A few will do it from the left to right, but that is not industry standard!.
Just make sure you know which side is the larger of the taper pins BEFORE trying to take them out!! Calipers help significantly when measuring them!!!
Once you confirm how your pins are in, place the front sight on the block that is on a SOLID work surface, align the 5/32" nail set punch and hold it solid.
One or two good solid hits will loosen the pins!
Obviously be sure of your aim when swinging that hammer, and do not let the nail set slip off!
Don't hit your hand either!!! ( Everyone does ONCE!)
Now that you have the taper pins loosened, use a smaller straight punch to push them out the rest of the way.....MAKE sure you are using a smaller punch than the small end of the taper pin to push them out!
To reinstall the pins....flip the barrel / front sight tower onto the opposite side of the bench block, make sure the front sight tower is as close to "straight" as possible...you should be able to see all the way through the taper pin holes...if not adjust the front sight tower until you can! I put a drop of oil on the small end of the taper pin before inserting it in. Tap the taper pins in until you feel resistance, switch to a larger punch to help seat the pins, finish up with the 5/32" nail set. Drive the pins in until there's an even amount of the pins sticking through both sides! Don't hit your hand or fingers!
Sorry if this is too long of an explanation! (35 years experience: COLT / FN / GLOCK / Beretta / SIG SAUER certified Master Armorer)
Would you sell me one.
No sorry... just gotta just make your own..
I copied your idea lol thanks for uploading helped me alot
I was far from the first to do this.. but glad my video helped..
Were gas blocks $200 in 2014 or something because you can get one now for $20 lol
LOL... No but this one is pinned to the barrel with roll pins and not just allen screws.. and Why not.. took longer to make the video than to actually make it..
Been there done that
Awesome! Would u mind making one for me? I would pay
No sorry.. That's what the video is for.. :)
I did mine without removing it from the barrel.
You need to rub oil on that bluing job you did in order to do the job correctly.
Should wipe it down with Windex. After that a thin coat of oil. That "bluing' chemical has a tendency to rust.
+Idontcare_626 What exactly does the windex do?
+A True Wisconsinite
Windex has Ammonia.
Idontcare_626 I don't know exactly what that entails? Could you elaborate?
+A True Wisconsinite
The Ammonia neutralizes the rusting.
Idontcare_626 Okay thank you for the tip. I am about to be doing the same project so I am happy for the tip. And I didn't think that I was going to get a reply seeing that your comment was from a year ago! That was fast!
Bandsaw
Cool but a low pro gas block is like $10 lol
Yea maybe.. But this one is pinned on and you will like this one way more than one you just buy... Because you made it.
An old shot out barrel section would make a good handle to hold away from heat. Nice work. $$ saved.