Just got my first AR, and I’ve been going through dozens of videos on how to properly oil and maintain the rifle. This is without a doubt, the best video I’ve seen. No blurry, poorly lit shots, no glossing over important key points. You simply explained your reasoning and methodology, followed it with good examples, and then provided proofs for each one. This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks very much for this.
and still holding strong 2 years later. Im just trying to find a video for people to watch cause Im sick of telling them how to do it. and he didnt have you oil the "Exhaust Holes" This video wins. FINALLY!!!!
A key point to remember,like ammo selection each gun is gonna prefer certain things. Some ars will run greatdry some prefer to be douched. To each gun their own. But I gan agree with this video.
One thing I learned from my range time in the army: I was experiencing jamming issues. My armorer (a Special Forces Weapons expert) looked at my bolt. He told me to make sure the splits in the gas rings were not aligned. Make sure each one is offset. No more jamming. So even today, on my AR. I make sure to check that when cleaning.
Former Army here 88-98. A bad magazine will cause double feed or a bolt over ride , a sticking or worn extractor will also cause issues. Improper cleaning of the gas block passage will cause failure to feed after firing a round. The gas rings can cause some loss of function but usually not enough to cause a jam. One thing when you first get your rifle count the number sealing rings that are on the bolt some have 2 some have 3. You should be able to place the BCG vertical on the locking lugs on the bolt and it will not retract , if it does the rings are worn out and time to replace them.
@@hoppahaole3155 Gorilla glue will withstand the heat. Super glue will burn off and eventually the slots in the rings will align themselves. The unknown is: will it happen after 10 or 1,000 rounds?
Your gas rings continue to rotate as you fire the gun, making it actually unnecessary to space the gas rings so that they do not line up. In fact, the gun will continue to operate with only one ring. The other two are for redundancy. There could have been many other potential issues that caused the jamming. Could’ve been that the rings themselves needed to be replaced. I mean there’s also other mechanical issues that could be the problem
EL Dragon --that’s dumb /so a robber breaks in ur house and pulls a gun on u and your family. What do you do? (Answer) drain down oil grab a rag dry off ur gun and save the family $&@?’!=wrong answer: My Ar 15 pistol sits in my bedroom with a 100 round drum in it but it won’t be my first option the baby G2 45mag w ultra bright light and laser mounted under my pillow will be my fitst
RUclips recommended this to me and I was like "I already know how to lubricate an AR...meh, nothing else to do I'll watch it..". Turns out yeah, I actually didn't know how to lube an AR..
Thanks for this...new to AR15 and you kept it easy to understand while still explaining your rationale for what you're doing. I also appreciate all of your thorough/polite responses in the comment sections despite some of the posters being kind of rude.
Just don't over do it with grease I've seen ppl slap all kinds on the recoil spring then get into cold weather and wonder why it won't cycle lol I just use a lil touch where trigger and hammer contact other than that strictly oil, every1 has their own way I guess
Hah, I lube my AR bolt almost exactly the same way. I never looked up how to do it, I just did like you mentioned where I took a good look at the design, and used my mechanical experience to decide where it needed it. I also use Mpro. I use grease on the cam pin instead, and I think mine looks less worn than yours. I also grease the part where the hammer rides. I run the buffer dry. I do the charge handle differently, but pretty much as minimal. I use grease on the trigger engagement surfaces, hammer. I do not lube the springs. I also have a Giessele. I grease the takedown/pivot pins and trigger pins like maybe once every 1000 rounds or so when I do a thorough strip and clean.
As a new MSR owner, I have decided that lubrication of AR-15 style guns is similar to lubrication of bicycle chains -- everyone has their favorite method and considers their technique to be the best! After watching numerous videos on this topic, I find yours to make the most sense. I appreciate that you showed the surfaces that are wearing, and base your lubrication scheme on that. There's no need to put a lot of goop on surfaces that never make contact. Great video!
I agree with your approach with AR15 lubrication. I just watched InRange's video about them doing the convoy dust test, pretty incredible to see a bone dry AR working very well. I came from the school of thought of where the AR had to be soaking wet in order to run and it was a sin to have a minimal lubed rifle. Great video ! :)
I lube mine, about the same as you do. Always runs great! Zero malfunctions. I may add a drop to my trigger sear engagement area. You're right. You must understand what's going on in your firearms. Some people just aren't mechanically inclined...
BCM filthy14 looks like it has sludge inside of lt.Yet it keeps on functioning past 45,000 rounds.Lube lots of lube keep it going and it's very rarely cleaned.It also sees lots of carbine classes.Their motto is a Ar will run dirty and wet but not dirty and dry.
Just got my first AR-15 a week ago. Thank you for this video it was very helpful with my first cleaning and taking apart my bolt carrier assembly. I would like to thank you for your service in the military and your knowledge on these guns helping us normal people do what we need to do to make it right.
waterraildog Thanks, glad you got something out of it. When I'm back in the states I got a bunch of AR videos planned, mostly designed around the new AR owner, and even some things the more experienced guys might learn. -Mr. 2nd
You should also lube the bottom of the bolt carrier group where it contacts and resets the hammer. That is a place of hard contact and should be lubed.
Every once in a while a video comes along which ends up being the definitive guide on something saturated in controversy not to mention to much oil. Finally now we have some advice on lubing your AR15 based on a mechanical understanding of how it actually works. If you watch only one video on maintaining your AR15 this would be the one.
I just wanna say thank you one more time. I use your method of lubing every time I lube my BCG and I love it! Very clean, neat & organized. I even lube my lower including the pins every now & then. I also clean the extractor every now and then as well, as for the ejector I've actually never lubed mine after putting hundreds of rounds through my rifle. And just recently for the first time, I've added 2 itty bitty eye dropplets of oil to the ejector and worked them in several times each (as in 1 drop, work it in several times & again for the second) dried it off and its gtg for a long while. Like I said I've never done it before (but after getting some help from gun fourms I was successfully able to do it) mainly because I was scared and its not something you wanna constantly mess with. But I also don't want it to rust/corrode either simply because I've never oiled it kinda thing. Good deal man well thanks again for your video! Also liked, subbed and hit that bell icon! :D
Brah, thanks for the guide and explanation. New to AR-15 ownership and if it wasn't for people like you out there I would be lost. Stay safe and thanks.
Something a lot of people forget, or never knew, is that a good gun oil/grease will have boundary lubricant packages. They're small solids that sit between moving parts and act like tiny, microscopic ball bearings (kind of but not really). Even if the liquid or greasy carrier is forced out from between the parts being lubricated, the boundary lubricants remain. This is part of the reason why a light coat of good oil/grease is preferred over just dumping it all over everything.
Thanks for that info. I like the minimalist method of lubricating. My first exposure to this was back in 1971 with the M-16 A1. Lubricating was really stressed with the good 'ol LSA oil. Thanks again.
Thanks for the basic how-to, the accurate why/because and sparing us your musical preferences at Volume 10 and the self grandiose videos of you with 20 different kinds of firearms. No fuss. No muss. Thank You.
offbeatbop Not always, it depends. If he had an "on-list" lower he couldn't bring the lower into the state, so he'd have to get a new "off-list" lower and transfer all the parts, or just sell the rifle.
Glad to find an actual person to show me how to clean my AR. I’ve looked at a couple videos and they weren’t helpful at all. You went straight into the most basic spots that need to be oiled, thank you
I soak my bolt carrier and fill the piston area with oil until it spits back. The reason? So it cleans better and I've had zero issues. I have a great understanding of this and when it comes to the bolt? The more lube, the better. I never have cam pins wear out and have never needed to scrape carbon off of a bolt. Always wipes clean. AND... I don't need to clean it very often. My ARs are not gun safe trophies... they operate.
+BikerBry I don't think you'd always be able to get away with that if the worst happened. See the AR15 reliability test video -less oil helped there, but then again those were VERY dirty and unrealistic conditions.
thats a good way to get oil into the chamber ! which increase pressures on firing ! you wont notice it, as the semi auto gas system has so much force that it will still cycle the bolt back (the case would expend alot more because of the higher pressures of the oil getting into the chamber
I tend to over lubricate my AR too, if I were sent to a dusty environment then I'll be a minimalist, but my AR is not collecting dust in the battlefield, it is collecting humidity in the gun safe.
Most of the carbon fouling people complain about is actually the result of over lubrication. The carbon combines with the excessive lube to form a gritty sludge that can harden and coat internal parts under the heat of firing. This can be exacerbated by shooting ammo that had powder that burns dirty (almost all of the Russian stuff) and not giving things a quick wipe down after a range session. These days I use Strike Hold which is a dry film lubricant so I just spray down the carrier, bolt, fire control, interior of the upper, charging handle etc. and it dries out leaving a lubricant film. I do add a light coat of Mil-Comm TW25B grease to the rail areas like in his video but that's likely overkill. I the past I used to give everything a good overall exterior coat of oil and let it soak, then wipe everything dry and lube as he did in the video. If you understand the mechanics of the AR system what he lists as lubrication points is really all you need.
I recently bought assembled lowers and uppers from different places, and wasn't sure how to lube the parts, having never owned an AR pattern rifle till now. Thanks for making this easy to understand.
Shojikitsune1 Thanks for the feedback, I'm glad it was helpful. When I get back to the states I'll do another lubrication video with some more detailed stuff. Thanks. -Mr 2nd
You’ll have a lot to clean off by then. That gun powered will be coated on the lube.
4 года назад+2
@@miciavelli - True, but it aids in break-in. Cleaning is part of ownership and responsibility. The OPs's comment is technically correct ... over-lube a little when new, then you'll not have to use so much lube after break-in and your rifle will then be easier to clean.
@ Just bought my first AR rifle since getting out in 02. I had to my bolt more than normal at the range to after that no more issues. Just breaking in. Those rifles Uncle Sam gave me were well worn.
He's all lubed up and ready to go. Just like my first handgun, I didn't want to take my first AR-15 to the range without lubing it up. Thanks for the video.
If you used a gun grease on that bolt cam, it probably wouldn't wear half as much. High temp grease stays put under high temperature environments.I always use grease and I have shot many thousands of rounds through mine and my bolt cam doesn't look half as worn as this one does. Just my two cents 😁. Gun oil burns off too quickly in my experiences
Great explanation and easy to follow - the mark of a good teacher. New to ARs (basically) so looking for helpful and logical information, which you have shared. Cheers!
Best Lube video I've watched so far. I have the same philosophy and I really like how you touched on the point that it's important to know how the thing actually works. Everybody should have a basic understanding of there equipment.
Save your money and use full synthetic motor oil. I'm sure Mpro7 and EWL Slip 2000 are good stuff but expensive compared to a $5.00 quart of Mobil Super Full Synthetic 10W-30 that'll last forever almost. Mixing motor oil with Hi Temp Wheel Bearing Grease works great in some applications too. Seems to stay in place and last longer than any of the "gun lubes."
Thanks. I'm aware of the gas ring staggering situation but chose not to include that in the video. In the Colt M4 Armorer's Course, they said the rifle will function with just one gas ring. Once I heard that I tested it with success, and since then I've lost any desire to stagger the gas rings as it seems to make no difference, whether I stagger them or not. I've tried staggering the rings and purposely aligning them to create a gap, and I've discovered no difference whatsoever in performance. They said it was more about the overall seal between the bolt tail and the inside of the bolt carrier, and staggering gas rings didn't matter when you got three intentional holes machined into the carrier to vent excess gas. I first heard about this practice from a SRT team guy with the DOE, and had occasionally heard it in the gun shop from old school AR guys -maybe some of them were Vietnam vets when they were doing anything to try and make the original M16 more reliable. Either way, I find the practice of staggering gas rings to be of no concern to the modern AR15 owner and I would urge you to try it for yourself and see if you experience any problems in purposely aligning the rings. Great comment and thank you! -Mr. 2nd
Cool man I will do that. not sure if I'm old school or new did basic in 96 and just retired. Back to the topic I actually cant remember ANY time when I had a problem with my AR/M4 but to be honest My attention switched to my Abrams when I went Armor and got BMG as a individual weapon :) the armorers course sounds fun maybe Ill look into it Thanks
Jeff Lowe Thanks for your service, looks like 20 years, that's impressive and respected. I went through basic 2 years ago and there was no mention of staggering the rings. I also have a love for the .50 cal, I was a gunner on deployment and sometimes I had the .50 and it's just something else entirely. 11B, so we only deal with trucks at most, but usually we're walking -can't imagine being on a tank. Well done brother and thank you. -Mr. 2nd
People say you need to stagger the gas rings, probably because people say you need to stagger piston rings in an engine. The engine piston ring thing has been shown to be a myth so I'm confident that the gas ring thing is too.
Great video. You prove that there are only a few moving parts and how to lubricate them, which keeps the weapon cleaner for a longer time, and make it easier to clean the weapon.
Good video and info. I always felt that the old school guys that taught me used way to much oil on their guns. This makes more sense and helps to keep your gun internals clean.
@Rara Neagra If after all that time you're still "experimenting" it sounds like you don't trust your own knowledge. Is it possible that you actually have a few months of learning, and years of repeating bad habits? Also what exactly do mean by "never put any lube on any internal parts of an ar"? Do you mean no oil ever?
@Rara Neagra I was asking because I'm trying to understand if you are speaking from actual knowledge or not. Why are you so sensitive? What you said seems to go against most of what I've heard. I guess I just fell for the troll bait
Excellent Video. I have two BROs and never have shot them yet. Tonight, I will take them apart and do what you said. I understand using a little more oil on guns that have never been fired. You did an excellent job and very direct and to the point. Thank you for taking the time to help those of us that need it. God Bless.
Finally found video to tell people to go watch. Finally found one that does it properly and well informative and doesn't have people oil the Exhaust Holes. Why do people do that? I did just get a brand new one that needed to be soaked. Bought it and had to mortar it get the round out, fixed that and then I had to prod the round out. Completely took it apart and cleaned and drenched the hole thing and sent 120rds through it and now oiling it like this sense.
A lot of good points. I remember my first time shooting an AR at basic. The Drill Sergeants sprayed so much CLP that right after the first round, my eyes were stinging and watering from the burning oil.
Yeah, I remember that too. Once we got into White Phase and they knew what I was about, they let me forego the CLP being dumped into your open bolt by the dude on detail to get on the range. I was grateful for the latitude they gave me during OSUT, by that time I was going through at 25 after teaching classes at a gun range for years and being an NRA rifle/pistol instructor. Top shot in Fox 2-58, I honestly enjoyed it. I had DS Gibson and DS Gliebe, and then we picked up DS Miller towards the end.
You are doing it all wrong! You have to clean the bypass line. You'll need a pair of pliers and some 30w ball bearings. Prep that line with some 3-1 oil and some gauze pads. Get 10 quarts of antifreeze preferably Prestone. No, no make that Quaker State. Thanks for the video. I use a little more than you. I take whatever is left on my hands and rub down the bolt and maybe a drop or so on some of the lower. No need to swim your parts in oil. I wonder how many people will get the first part of my comment? Cheers!
I've been using ballistol on my guns for a looooong time now, and I like it because it soaks into the metal over time and gives you a really smooth running system after you completely wipe it all dry. So i soak the parts down, let it sit for 10-15 minutes, and then thoroughly wipe everything dry. Once you get over the smell of licorice and landfill... you'll never use another type of oil lol.
you are actually somewhat wrong. Try cleaning a rifle thats been well lubricated vs your method. Carbon nearly wipes right off. Maintenance is key to anything. and you are giving bad advice
I think "bad advice" is advice that is unsafe or damaging to equipment. I offer my opinion, which is for anybody to review and decide. Lubricate the hell out of your AR, shoot 1,000 rounds, and see if the carbon just "wipes right off." You'll have caked carbon on the bolt tail, gunk all up in the star chamber, a filthy bolt carrier, and carbon all in the upper receiver and inside the charging handle. No matter how much lubrication you apply, a direct impingement gun is going to blast hot gases into your upper and BCG, blasting out or burning out the lubrication and coating the respective surfaces and parts in carbon. Lubrication should be viewed as, and used in, a manner that lubricates. It can perform other functions in a limited capacity, but its sole purpose and strength is lubricating moving components and minimizing friction, not making carbon wipe off. If you want the real deal, buy a nickel-boron BCG and you will in fact get a real "wipe-off" effect, but that's because of the surface treatment off the parts, not lubrication. Bad advice, or just not what you agree with? There is a difference, I would hope people know that difference before dropping huge accusations.
Watch Larry Vickers video about lubrication. He puts guns in a 50 gallon battle of oil in and pulls them out and they run fine. One thing to know about AR's. They run fine dirty. They will not run fine dry. My buddy and I did a little experiment. We took a cheap M&P15 Sport, ran it every day for about 4 years spraying the crap out of it with Remington oil. No cleaning, No problems. Tore it down, cleaned it, and it had zero problems.
I do mine the exact same way, no fails... Tried overlubing once just to see what would happen, not good... Lots of jams due to excessive powder build up... great video..
That is a minimalist approach.I use a very light synthetic grease on the bc and a mixture on gun oil and trans fluid on the bolt.The charging handle gets the transmission mix and the buffer assembly also.When I pull my charging handle back the bcg feels like butter.
If I had the proper equipment, I would test automotive lubricants in the AR15 to get some data. Right now, it's a giant mystery. It appears to get the job done, depending on type and brand, but I'm more concerned about the additives they put in automotive/engine/transmission oil. The polymers and other things that are there for the purpose they were designed for, but is it alright to let that smoke up/burn and inhale it? I don't know, I have no way of knowing. For the time being, with a functional society and the ability to obtain and purchase whatever I want, I'm sticking with lubricants that were designed for firearms with these factors kept in mind. If I was in some kind of survival situation, I would use automotive oils, but I just don't know enough about them from a chemical/scientific angle to know if it 100% is not harmful to inhale. Just some thoughts, I have no concerns of it damaging the rifle, I'm sure it works functionally well, I just don't know enough about it yet to do it. Firearms-driven lubricants are available, affordable, and last a long time, and there are some great ones out there, I just haven't found the need to use anything else.
Thanks for the info, I've seen a lot of videos where the bolt is drenched and have wondered how in the world it would react to the battle field stressed environment with dirt sand debris. Your video made id simple to understand the POI on the platform and mechanical aspects of the design. Thanks again
Excellent video. You made it very easy to understand. With a lot of gun videos the host complicates the training. You got straight to point. Thank you.
Thank you my friend...and incidentally while searching the youtube channel I came across a video by Cory Trapp who is a gunsmith and well known instructor at GUNSITE. His instructions were almost verbatim to yours, so my question is really not so imperative and your response makes loads of sense...thanks a million!!
Wow, great to hear, I'll have to look him up. I just go off what I know personally and what I've seen in my experience as a civilian firearms instructor and as an Infantryman. The way I lubricate and care for my AR15s at home is not how I treated my M4 in Afghanistan. I was a gunner on the last deployment, so my M4 (and Mk48/M240/M2) got REAL dusty just from driving those cruddy roads, oil and lubrication was kept to a minimum and only in closed-off, critical areas that had a lot of tolerance to operate with collected grime. To the AR15's credit, it will operate even with excessive amounts of lubrication, and most people don't put their guns through the paces nor do we really have enough money to buy and shoot the ammo required to find the failure point on some of these high-dollar guns, so you really can't go wrong in the civilian, casual-shooting world. For military or hunters packing their ARs around the mountains or through the bush, the situation is different.
Good video..You are right..It is a good idea to lubricate that buffer and spring.That spring rubs a great deal on buffer tube walls.One place I do put a lubricant that you do not is the trigger I always check and put a little grease on Trigger contact points. I also use that Fire Armor CLP PRO.. its good stuff.
Mr2ndAmendment... Hey man, I really appreciate the video. I have owned hand guns for years but only recently bought an AR-15... and I'm absolutely addicted. With all the info I've read and videos I've watched, I really appreciated your simple, yet well informed video. Most people try to act like "badass" gun experts and demand I do things the way they do it and it gets pretty annoying. Anyway man, thanks again. If you have any info or tips and tricks you'd like to share, I would be grateful. Have a good one bro.
Thanks for the feedback man, I'm glad you got something out of it. I grew up in an anti-gun household and had to escape that and figure everything out on my own, and I'd encounter elitist people or the "badasses" you talk about who would only see it their way and look down on me because I was a newb. Gun ownership is a journey, some of us are farther down the trail than others, and I just want to help good people along on this path if you will. Glad you got into the AR game and thanks for the feedback. -Mr. 2nd
Very good video, to the point, clear and indeed helpful around the world. Very well presented in a way anyone into teaching could learn from. Thumbs up and thank you.
I did infantry basic in 86 at Ft Benning(Sand Hill). We went through gallons of WD-40 cleaning and lubing our weapons. I wonder if it was a plot by the Drill Sargents to keep us cleaning the M-16’s constantly. The WD-40 would collect tons of dirt and grime. So, after cleaning the gun and as we put them back together, we would spray half a can into the weapon. What a mess.
Very thorough, the fact that you made it very clear this is your method of doing this was great. Thanks
4 года назад
Great video. Every gun is different. For example, my Beretta 92FS needs less lubricant than my SIG Sauer P226. The SIG will actually experience failure to extract if it isn't "wet". I oil both a little more than many shooters would, but I oil the SIG a little more than the Beretta.
I use Lucas Red bearing grease applied with a hobby brush to the same points. I also use synthetic machine oil on internal pivot parts. Any petroleum product will tend to evaporate over time. Bearing grease and synthetic oil sticks around for a long time.
Its important to remember that EVERY gun is different. Some like to be ran wet and some run dry. Sure it was designed to run "dry" but every gun likes what it likes.
I as well am new to the AR 15 world and this is a perfect video for me! Even though I don't have a gas system I have a piston Sig516 this video enlightened me because I was about to drench the rifle with oil before watching this video so thanks !!
There's a grease like lubricant called battleborn grease, great product for ar platforms. I've been using it a long time and it doesn't take much to lubricate gun parts.
I find that a little bacon grease really makes a huge difference in performance. Your AR will really appreciate it. As will the other shooters at the range when they smell breakfast cooking.
+bestguitar11 Unconventional but I've seen guys do this (and use Crisco or lard for the big stuff). Not my first choice in peaceful times when I have access to my preferred lubricants (synthetics) but in times of sparse supplies and times of need, it will work. 18th and 19th Century soldiers would use whatever was available to prevent rust on their muskets, including leftover grease from the campfire skillet, so it has historical roots and does work, although not my preferred method unless I have to. Good intell.
Less is more in the way I see it. I've seen the videos of the guy putting the rifle together just dripping in oil stating "ARs like to be run wet...". That's just more crap to attract dust, carbon, etc. May as well wrap sandpaper on your BCG and install that thing. I only lightly coat oil on the moving pieces, put some on the rails of the BCG, and put it together. Very similar in process to how you've done it. Good job.
I do agree with the buffer part I would just use a CLP wipe clean and lube at same time then throw it back in. However like I said after a few range uses if I don't want to clean but it's a little dry which you'll hear when you manipulate charging handle don't be afraid at competitions shooters literally spray right into the ejection port!
After 40 or 50 rounds my 15 was starting to jam when I was stingy with lube. After using a little more oil on the bolt and some grease on the four contact points on the carrier I haven’t had any more problems. I know they say not to use grease but I just put a dab and spread it. I do clean my rifle after every time I shoot it.
I believe in Reid Hendrix Philosophy it’s better to have a dirty rifle that’s wet then one that’s dry, your method is good for just going to the range but listen to the guys who are in combat situation‘s they’ll tell you different, Run them wet, not dripping wet but wet, I do appreciate your opinion and your video however and thank you, you are absolutely correct on the cam pin highest ware most lubricated part
When I clean my AR. I use a solvent made by Hoppes and use 3in1 oil. Clean with the solvent until the patches come out pretty clean. Then I pull a few dry patches out and then run a couple oil patches in with a small minimum amount of oil, that's it. The bolt gets a great amount of foul, hard, dry substance on it where the neck of it is which a brush is not going to remove it, so on that I scrape my knife blade around it to remove it. They actual sell a scraper tool to remove it, but the tool won't do any better that good ole buck knife will do. Other than the bit of oil while cleaning the gun, I don't oil it anywhere. It's fired probably 4000 to 6000 rds through it.
Hoppes and smells good to boot. Been using it for many years. Don’t seem to smell as good as years back. Same boat light oil in key locations. More don’t mean better.
Way too much dust and dirt?? Have you not seen the MANS Larry Vickers video of the myth of over lubrication..... I say they don't have to be white gloved clean, but they need to be lubed. I run a gun shop and range we have an AR rental and I can attest that thing has been so dirty it shouldn't have run but spray some good quality go juice and bam she is running flawlessly.
Just got my first AR, and I’ve been going through dozens of videos on how to properly oil and maintain the rifle. This is without a doubt, the best video I’ve seen. No blurry, poorly lit shots, no glossing over important key points. You simply explained your reasoning and methodology, followed it with good examples, and then provided proofs for each one.
This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks very much for this.
Exactly. Love how only relevant info was shared. Didn’t talk too much.
Ditto!
I agree , thanks for making this video for us rookies
and still holding strong 2 years later. Im just trying to find a video for people to watch cause Im sick of telling them how to do it. and he didnt have you oil the "Exhaust Holes" This video wins. FINALLY!!!!
A key point to remember,like ammo selection each gun is gonna prefer certain things. Some ars will run greatdry some prefer to be douched. To each gun their own. But I gan agree with this video.
Thank you! It's good to have feedback, without you guys this wouldn't exist. Thanks, I'll keep them coming!
As a first time AR owner, much appreciated help. Thank you.
One thing I learned from my range time in the army: I was experiencing jamming issues. My armorer (a Special Forces Weapons expert) looked at my bolt. He told me to make sure the splits in the gas rings were not aligned. Make sure each one is offset. No more jamming. So even today, on my AR. I make sure to check that when cleaning.
Yessir, keep gas rings at 3rds on your bolt. That's NO BULLSHIT sir.
Former Army here 88-98. A bad magazine will cause double feed or a bolt over ride , a sticking or worn extractor will also cause issues. Improper cleaning of the gas block passage will cause failure to feed after firing a round.
The gas rings can cause some loss of function but usually not enough to cause a jam. One thing when you first get your rifle count the number sealing rings that are on the bolt some have 2 some have 3. You should be able to place the BCG vertical on the locking lugs on the bolt and it will not retract , if it does the rings are worn out and time to replace them.
So should I remove the bolt after every shot to be sure they didn't rotate? Better yet should I super glue them?
@@hoppahaole3155
Gorilla glue will withstand the heat. Super glue will burn off and eventually the slots in the rings will align themselves. The unknown is:
will it happen after 10 or 1,000 rounds?
Your gas rings continue to rotate as you fire the gun, making it actually unnecessary to space the gas rings so that they do not line up. In fact, the gun will continue to operate with only one ring. The other two are for redundancy.
There could have been many other potential issues that caused the jamming. Could’ve been that the rings themselves needed to be replaced. I mean there’s also other mechanical issues that could be the problem
7 1/2 years later and still teaching new kids the old ways. Less is more. Great vid!
My AR-15 is stored inside an oil drum submerged in Mobil Delvac heavy duty Diesel oil. Just in case, you never know.
😀
EL Dragon --that’s dumb /so a robber breaks in ur house and pulls a gun on u and your family. What do you do? (Answer) drain down oil grab a rag dry off ur gun and save the family $&@?’!=wrong answer:
My Ar 15 pistol sits in my bedroom with a 100 round drum in it but it won’t be my first option the baby G2 45mag w ultra bright light and laser mounted under my pillow will be my fitst
So im not the only one.
@@maximillianofranciscozamor9103 sounds like yours is dry...
Maximilliano Francisco Zamora JR woosh
RUclips recommended this to me and I was like "I already know how to lubricate an AR...meh, nothing else to do I'll watch it..". Turns out yeah, I actually didn't know how to lube an AR..
Thanks for this...new to AR15 and you kept it easy to understand while still explaining your rationale for what you're doing. I also appreciate all of your thorough/polite responses in the comment sections despite some of the posters being kind of rude.
Of course, and thanks! Everybody has to start somewhere, and the methods here have worked very well for me over the years. Thanks!
-Mr. 2nd
High temp grease is what I use on everything. Works like a charm, oil get hot and evaporates, grease stays put.
Same, I use the Slip series grease, just on the rails, there where it is 'needed'...
@NADS IQ Lithium grease is the way to go :) Like the cheap but effective Lucas red N tacky etc
Just don't over do it with grease
I've seen ppl slap all kinds on the recoil spring then get into cold weather and wonder why it won't cycle lol
I just use a lil touch where trigger and hammer contact other than that strictly oil, every1 has their own way I guess
@@matthewbeaver5026 I like to apply a smal dot of grease on rails too
@@matthewbeaver5026 I live in florida, not a problem here.. lol
Hah, I lube my AR bolt almost exactly the same way. I never looked up how to do it, I just did like you mentioned where I took a good look at the design, and used my mechanical experience to decide where it needed it. I also use Mpro.
I use grease on the cam pin instead, and I think mine looks less worn than yours.
I also grease the part where the hammer rides.
I run the buffer dry.
I do the charge handle differently, but pretty much as minimal.
I use grease on the trigger engagement surfaces, hammer.
I do not lube the springs. I also have a Giessele.
I grease the takedown/pivot pins and trigger pins like maybe once every 1000 rounds or so when I do a thorough strip and clean.
As a new MSR owner, I have decided that lubrication of AR-15 style guns is similar to lubrication of bicycle chains -- everyone has their favorite method and considers their technique to be the best! After watching numerous videos on this topic, I find yours to make the most sense. I appreciate that you showed the surfaces that are wearing, and base your lubrication scheme on that. There's no need to put a lot of goop on surfaces that never make contact. Great video!
The hell is a MSR
@@nelsonr1467- I think it's a cheap red dot
I agree with your approach with AR15 lubrication. I just watched InRange's video about them doing the convoy dust test, pretty incredible to see a bone dry AR working very well. I came from the school of thought of where the AR had to be soaking wet in order to run and it was a sin to have a minimal lubed rifle. Great video ! :)
Good demo man. Just got one and am remembering my M16 days from the 70’s. No need to make it drip.
I lube mine, about the same as you do. Always runs great! Zero malfunctions. I may add a drop to my trigger sear engagement area. You're right. You must understand what's going on in your firearms. Some people just aren't mechanically inclined...
BCM filthy14 looks like it has sludge inside of lt.Yet it keeps on functioning past 45,000 rounds.Lube lots of lube keep it going and it's very rarely cleaned.It also sees lots of carbine classes.Their motto is a Ar will run dirty and wet but not dirty and dry.
Just got my first AR-15 a week ago. Thank you for this video it was very helpful with my first cleaning and taking apart my bolt carrier assembly. I would like to thank you for your service in the military and your knowledge on these guns helping us normal people do what we need to do to make it right.
waterraildog
Thanks, glad you got something out of it. When I'm back in the states I got a bunch of AR videos planned, mostly designed around the new AR owner, and even some things the more experienced guys might learn.
-Mr. 2nd
Thanks for the simple non paramilitary I'm the god of guns video on lubrication. I think I've been over oiling mine, thanks for fixing that.
No problem, I hope you found it useful!
-Mr. 2nd
Ditto
You should also lube the bottom of the bolt carrier group where it contacts and resets the hammer. That is a place of hard contact and should be lubed.
Just bought my first. I had a feeling I was over oiling. Thanks for the vid!
You really cant hurt it by over oiling.It will attrack dirt but wont hurt rifle.
Every once in a while a video comes along which ends up being the definitive guide on something saturated in controversy not to mention to much oil. Finally now we have some advice on lubing your AR15 based on a mechanical understanding of how it actually works. If you watch only one video on maintaining your AR15 this would be the one.
I just wanna say thank you one more time. I use your method of lubing every time I lube my BCG and I love it! Very clean, neat & organized. I even lube my lower including the pins every now & then. I also clean the extractor every now and then as well, as for the ejector I've actually never lubed mine after putting hundreds of rounds through my rifle.
And just recently for the first time, I've added 2 itty bitty eye dropplets of oil to the ejector and worked them in several times each (as in 1 drop, work it in several times & again for the second) dried it off and its gtg for a long while. Like I said I've never done it before (but after getting some help from gun fourms I was successfully able to do it) mainly because I was scared and its not something you wanna constantly mess with. But I also don't want it to rust/corrode either simply because I've never oiled it kinda thing.
Good deal man well thanks again for your video! Also liked, subbed and hit that bell icon! :D
Brah, thanks for the guide and explanation. New to AR-15 ownership and if it wasn't for people like you out there I would be lost. Stay safe and thanks.
Something a lot of people forget, or never knew, is that a good gun oil/grease will have boundary lubricant packages. They're small solids that sit between moving parts and act like tiny, microscopic ball bearings (kind of but not really). Even if the liquid or greasy carrier is forced out from between the parts being lubricated, the boundary lubricants remain.
This is part of the reason why a light coat of good oil/grease is preferred over just dumping it all over everything.
I think that's one reason fully synthetic Motor Oil works so well.
Thanks for that info. I like the minimalist method of lubricating. My first exposure to this was back in 1971 with the M-16 A1. Lubricating was really stressed with the good 'ol LSA oil. Thanks again.
I have three bottles of that stuff. The best L for the AR15. Really makes it smooth. Usually pair it with strikehold.
Same with me. Ft Lewis 1971, M16 A-1. 👍
good video I use the same lubrication technique but I use a Hi temp grease.
High temp grease is the best overall IMO. I stick with Lucas redNtacky
Thanks for the basic how-to, the accurate why/because and sparing us your musical preferences at Volume 10 and the self grandiose videos of you with 20 different kinds of firearms. No fuss. No muss. Thank You.
Very nice rifle. Miss mine. One reason y'all shouldn't move to California. Lol.
John M. Couldn't you have just added a bullet button and kept your rifle?
offbeatbop Not always, it depends. If he had an "on-list" lower he couldn't bring the lower into the state, so he'd have to get a new "off-list" lower and transfer all the parts, or just sell the rifle.
Mr2ndAmendment Ahh I see. I live in the great state of NY so I feel his pain.
Am glad I live in Ohio, were almost anything go's, so far.
Nice video thanks!
How come John M commented that in California he had to get ride of his rifle?
What was the problem?
Crazy gun laws!
Glad to find an actual person to show me how to clean my AR. I’ve looked at a couple videos and they weren’t helpful at all. You went straight into the most basic spots that need to be oiled, thank you
I soak my bolt carrier and fill the piston area with oil until it spits back. The reason? So it cleans better and I've had zero issues. I have a great understanding of this and when it comes to the bolt? The more lube, the better. I never have cam pins wear out and have never needed to scrape carbon off of a bolt. Always wipes clean. AND... I don't need to clean it very often. My ARs are not gun safe trophies... they operate.
+BikerBry
I don't think you'd always be able to get away with that if the worst happened. See the AR15 reliability test video -less oil helped there, but then again those were VERY dirty and unrealistic conditions.
thats a good way to get oil into the chamber ! which increase pressures on firing ! you wont notice it, as the semi auto gas system has so much force that it will still cycle the bolt back (the case would expend alot more because of the higher pressures of the oil getting into the chamber
I tend to over lubricate my AR too, if I were sent to a dusty environment then I'll be a minimalist, but my AR is not collecting dust in the battlefield, it is collecting humidity in the gun safe.
Dip it and rip it!
yep...me too
Finally a video with up-close, focused shots so I can understand what someone is talking about. Thank you, good job on this video!
Thank you, glad you liked it!
-Mr. 2nd
Thx Mr2A. I was one of the 'dripping oil' group until I saw your great video.
No worries and no judgement, we all learn along the way, glad you liked it!
-Mr. 2nd
I just purchased my first AR, and this video was very good. I've learned a lot. Thank you very much.
Bout time someone isn't spraying 4 oz of friggin lube on the bolt.
Most of the carbon fouling people complain about is actually the result of over lubrication. The carbon combines with the excessive lube to form a gritty sludge that can harden and coat internal parts under the heat of firing. This can be exacerbated by shooting ammo that had powder that burns dirty (almost all of the Russian stuff) and not giving things a quick wipe down after a range session.
These days I use Strike Hold which is a dry film lubricant so I just spray down the carrier, bolt, fire control, interior of the upper, charging handle etc. and it dries out leaving a lubricant film. I do add a light coat of Mil-Comm TW25B grease to the rail areas like in his video but that's likely overkill.
I the past I used to give everything a good overall exterior coat of oil and let it soak, then wipe everything dry and lube as he did in the video. If you understand the mechanics of the AR system what he lists as lubrication points is really all you need.
No you his guns work, don’t they. And he actually shoots a lot. I’m assuming you don’t, considering you’re watching this video.
I recently bought assembled lowers and uppers from different places, and wasn't sure how to lube the parts, having never owned an AR pattern rifle till now. Thanks for making this easy to understand.
Shojikitsune1
Thanks for the feedback, I'm glad it was helpful. When I get back to the states I'll do another lubrication video with some more detailed stuff. Thanks.
-Mr 2nd
Thank you for your service and for the oiling tips. I'll admit I was a sprayer :) Makes sense though less oil = less abrasives sticking.
Just bought an ar-15 and now I have a good idea how to take it apart and lube it up. 👍🏻👍🏻
I lube a little heavy on a new rifle and diminish the amount of lube as the rifle breaks in, usually after 400-500 rounds.
You’ll have a lot to clean off by then. That gun powered will be coated on the lube.
@@miciavelli - True, but it aids in break-in. Cleaning is part of ownership and responsibility. The OPs's comment is technically correct ... over-lube a little when new, then you'll not have to use so much lube after break-in and your rifle will then be easier to clean.
@ Just bought my first AR rifle since getting out in 02. I had to my bolt more than normal at the range to after that no more issues. Just breaking in. Those rifles Uncle Sam gave me were well worn.
He's all lubed up and ready to go. Just like my first handgun, I didn't want to take my first AR-15 to the range without lubing it up. Thanks for the video.
If you used a gun grease on that bolt cam, it probably wouldn't wear half as much. High temp grease stays put under high temperature environments.I always use grease and I have shot many thousands of rounds through mine and my bolt cam doesn't look half as worn as this one does. Just my two cents 😁. Gun oil burns off too quickly in my experiences
possibly the most calm and logical lube video on YT.
Great explanation and easy to follow - the mark of a good teacher. New to ARs (basically) so looking for helpful and logical information, which you have shared. Cheers!
Best Lube video I've watched so far. I have the same philosophy and I really like how you touched on the point that it's important to know how the thing actually works. Everybody should have a basic understanding of there equipment.
Save your money and use full synthetic motor oil. I'm sure Mpro7 and EWL Slip 2000 are good stuff but expensive compared to a $5.00 quart of Mobil Super Full Synthetic 10W-30 that'll last forever almost. Mixing motor oil with Hi Temp Wheel Bearing Grease works great in some applications too. Seems to stay in place and last longer than any of the "gun lubes."
So many years later and this video is still so useful
not sure if you do this but the gas rings should be staggered on the bolt, good video
Thanks. I'm aware of the gas ring staggering situation but chose not to include that in the video. In the Colt M4 Armorer's Course, they said the rifle will function with just one gas ring. Once I heard that I tested it with success, and since then I've lost any desire to stagger the gas rings as it seems to make no difference, whether I stagger them or not. I've tried staggering the rings and purposely aligning them to create a gap, and I've discovered no difference whatsoever in performance. They said it was more about the overall seal between the bolt tail and the inside of the bolt carrier, and staggering gas rings didn't matter when you got three intentional holes machined into the carrier to vent excess gas. I first heard about this practice from a SRT team guy with the DOE, and had occasionally heard it in the gun shop from old school AR guys -maybe some of them were Vietnam vets when they were doing anything to try and make the original M16 more reliable.
Either way, I find the practice of staggering gas rings to be of no concern to the modern AR15 owner and I would urge you to try it for yourself and see if you experience any problems in purposely aligning the rings. Great comment and thank you!
-Mr. 2nd
Cool man I will do that. not sure if I'm old school or new did basic in 96 and just retired. Back to the topic I actually cant remember ANY time when I had a problem with my AR/M4 but to be honest My attention switched to my Abrams when I went Armor and got BMG as a individual weapon :) the armorers course sounds fun maybe Ill look into it Thanks
Jeff Lowe
Thanks for your service, looks like 20 years, that's impressive and respected. I went through basic 2 years ago and there was no mention of staggering the rings. I also have a love for the .50 cal, I was a gunner on deployment and sometimes I had the .50 and it's just something else entirely. 11B, so we only deal with trucks at most, but usually we're walking -can't imagine being on a tank. Well done brother and thank you.
-Mr. 2nd
Thanks Man, I was 11B Too, then I got tired of walking and got a tank :)
Keep up the great work Brother.
People say you need to stagger the gas rings, probably because people say you need to stagger piston rings in an engine. The engine piston ring thing has been shown to be a myth so I'm confident that the gas ring thing is too.
Great video. You prove that there are only a few moving parts and how to lubricate them, which keeps the weapon cleaner for a longer time, and make it easier to clean the weapon.
liked it very much, very helpful and realized I was over lubricating my AR
Honestly you cant over lubricate an AR. The excess will burn off
Good video and info. I always felt that the old school guys that taught me used way to much oil on their guns. This makes more sense and helps to keep your gun internals clean.
Thanks for this. Perfect explanation and exactly what I was looking for!
Made more sense than any maintenance guide I’ve seen yet.
Very well done.
"If it rotates, oil it; if it slides, grease it." -- John Browning Kalashnikov
@Rara Neagra - Bullshit. Learn to spell. Highly refined machine oils such as Rem Oil (even sewing machine oil) will not congeal above 0 F.
@Rara Neagra my lucas gun grease is rated for -20 ... more then one hunt at 20-30 deg. and runs flawless
@Rara Neagra after 20 years of experience, you just decided to put Moly paste on the lugs?
@Rara Neagra If after all that time you're still "experimenting" it sounds like you don't trust your own knowledge. Is it possible that you actually have a few months of learning, and years of repeating bad habits? Also what exactly do mean by "never put any lube on any internal parts of an ar"? Do you mean no oil ever?
@Rara Neagra I was asking because I'm trying to understand if you are speaking from actual knowledge or not. Why are you so sensitive? What you said seems to go against most of what I've heard.
I guess I just fell for the troll bait
This was actually informative and helpful for a 1st time AR owner like myself. Thanks for posting.
you should try grease on rails.
Excellent Video. I have two BROs and never have shot them yet. Tonight, I will take them apart and do what you said. I understand using a little more oil on guns that have never been fired. You did an excellent job and very direct and to the point. Thank you for taking the time to help those of us that need it. God Bless.
I just store the rifle in my used oil tub, pull it out, shake it, and get to operating bro.
High speed, low drag!👍🏾
Finally found video to tell people to go watch. Finally found one that does it properly and well informative and doesn't have people oil the Exhaust Holes. Why do people do that?
I did just get a brand new one that needed to be soaked. Bought it and had to mortar it get the round out, fixed that and then I had to prod the round out. Completely took it apart and cleaned and drenched the hole thing and sent 120rds through it and now oiling it like this sense.
What if you go full semi auto?
I like the q-tip thing on the lower receiver. I also like the comment on how the hammer comes in contact with the bolt carrier. A little grease there.
Excellent method and video. Thanks much.
A lot of good points. I remember my first time shooting an AR at basic. The Drill Sergeants sprayed so much CLP that right after the first round, my eyes were stinging and watering from the burning oil.
Yeah, I remember that too. Once we got into White Phase and they knew what I was about, they let me forego the CLP being dumped into your open bolt by the dude on detail to get on the range. I was grateful for the latitude they gave me during OSUT, by that time I was going through at 25 after teaching classes at a gun range for years and being an NRA rifle/pistol instructor. Top shot in Fox 2-58, I honestly enjoyed it. I had DS Gibson and DS Gliebe, and then we picked up DS Miller towards the end.
@@Mr2ndAmendment great memories, thanks for sharing and making the video.
You are doing it all wrong! You have to clean the bypass line. You'll need a pair of pliers and some 30w ball bearings. Prep that line with some 3-1 oil and some gauze pads. Get 10 quarts of antifreeze preferably Prestone. No, no make that Quaker State. Thanks for the video. I use a little more than you. I take whatever is left on my hands and rub down the bolt and maybe a drop or so on some of the lower. No need to swim your parts in oil. I wonder how many people will get the first part of my comment? Cheers!
weasel316 how’s traffic on the Santa Anna this morning? I heard there’s a jackknifed manure truck up there!
Fletch
“It’s all ball bearings nowadays”!!
I've been using ballistol on my guns for a looooong time now, and I like it because it soaks into the metal over time and gives you a really smooth running system after you completely wipe it all dry. So i soak the parts down, let it sit for 10-15 minutes, and then thoroughly wipe everything dry. Once you get over the smell of licorice and landfill... you'll never use another type of oil lol.
you are actually somewhat wrong. Try cleaning a rifle thats been well lubricated vs your method. Carbon nearly wipes right off. Maintenance is key to anything. and you are giving bad advice
I think "bad advice" is advice that is unsafe or damaging to equipment. I offer my opinion, which is for anybody to review and decide. Lubricate the hell out of your AR, shoot 1,000 rounds, and see if the carbon just "wipes right off." You'll have caked carbon on the bolt tail, gunk all up in the star chamber, a filthy bolt carrier, and carbon all in the upper receiver and inside the charging handle. No matter how much lubrication you apply, a direct impingement gun is going to blast hot gases into your upper and BCG, blasting out or burning out the lubrication and coating the respective surfaces and parts in carbon.
Lubrication should be viewed as, and used in, a manner that lubricates. It can perform other functions in a limited capacity, but its sole purpose and strength is lubricating moving components and minimizing friction, not making carbon wipe off. If you want the real deal, buy a nickel-boron BCG and you will in fact get a real "wipe-off" effect, but that's because of the surface treatment off the parts, not lubrication.
Bad advice, or just not what you agree with? There is a difference, I would hope people know that difference before dropping huge accusations.
Mr.Smith, you just got put in your place, sir.
Phillip Smith u sir are a dumb ass
Watch Larry Vickers video about lubrication. He puts guns in a 50 gallon battle of oil in and pulls them out and they run fine. One thing to know about AR's. They run fine dirty. They will not run fine dry. My buddy and I did a little experiment. We took a cheap M&P15 Sport, ran it every day for about 4 years spraying the crap out of it with Remington oil. No cleaning, No problems. Tore it down, cleaned it, and it had zero problems.
Your skills are strong in oiling that buffer+buffer spring. Looks like years of practice went into that technique. Great video btw-
I do mine the exact same way, no fails... Tried overlubing once just to see what would happen, not good... Lots of jams due to excessive powder build up... great video..
Watched a few videos on lubricating. I like your minimalist approach. Thank you.
That is a minimalist approach.I use a very light synthetic grease on the bc and a mixture on gun oil and trans fluid on the bolt.The charging handle gets the transmission mix and the buffer assembly also.When I pull my charging handle back the bcg feels like butter.
If I had the proper equipment, I would test automotive lubricants in the AR15 to get some data. Right now, it's a giant mystery. It appears to get the job done, depending on type and brand, but I'm more concerned about the additives they put in automotive/engine/transmission oil. The polymers and other things that are there for the purpose they were designed for, but is it alright to let that smoke up/burn and inhale it? I don't know, I have no way of knowing.
For the time being, with a functional society and the ability to obtain and purchase whatever I want, I'm sticking with lubricants that were designed for firearms with these factors kept in mind. If I was in some kind of survival situation, I would use automotive oils, but I just don't know enough about them from a chemical/scientific angle to know if it 100% is not harmful to inhale.
Just some thoughts, I have no concerns of it damaging the rifle, I'm sure it works functionally well, I just don't know enough about it yet to do it. Firearms-driven lubricants are available, affordable, and last a long time, and there are some great ones out there, I just haven't found the need to use anything else.
Thanks for the info, I've seen a lot of videos where the bolt is drenched and have wondered how in the world it would react to the battle field stressed environment with dirt sand debris. Your video made id simple to understand the POI on the platform and mechanical aspects of the design. Thanks again
Have always oiled all my weapons like this. So were in tune with each other.. Thanks.
Excellent video. You made it very easy to understand. With a lot of gun videos the host complicates the training. You got straight to point. Thank you.
Thank you my friend...and incidentally while searching the youtube channel I came across a video by Cory Trapp who is
a gunsmith and well known instructor at GUNSITE. His instructions were almost verbatim to yours, so my question is
really not so imperative and your response makes loads of sense...thanks a million!!
Wow, great to hear, I'll have to look him up. I just go off what I know personally and what I've seen in my experience as a civilian firearms instructor and as an Infantryman. The way I lubricate and care for my AR15s at home is not how I treated my M4 in Afghanistan. I was a gunner on the last deployment, so my M4 (and Mk48/M240/M2) got REAL dusty just from driving those cruddy roads, oil and lubrication was kept to a minimum and only in closed-off, critical areas that had a lot of tolerance to operate with collected grime.
To the AR15's credit, it will operate even with excessive amounts of lubrication, and most people don't put their guns through the paces nor do we really have enough money to buy and shoot the ammo required to find the failure point on some of these high-dollar guns, so you really can't go wrong in the civilian, casual-shooting world. For military or hunters packing their ARs around the mountains or through the bush, the situation is different.
Again, thanks and thank you for your Service!!
Good video..You are right..It is a good idea to lubricate that buffer and spring.That spring rubs a great deal on buffer tube walls.One place I do put a lubricant that you do not is the trigger
I always check and put a little grease on Trigger contact points.
I also use that Fire Armor CLP PRO.. its good stuff.
Mr2ndAmendment... Hey man, I really appreciate the video. I have owned hand guns for years but only recently bought an AR-15... and I'm absolutely addicted. With all the info I've read and videos I've watched, I really appreciated your simple, yet well informed video. Most people try to act like "badass" gun experts and demand I do things the way they do it and it gets pretty annoying. Anyway man, thanks again. If you have any info or tips and tricks you'd like to share, I would be grateful. Have a good one bro.
Thanks for the feedback man, I'm glad you got something out of it. I grew up in an anti-gun household and had to escape that and figure everything out on my own, and I'd encounter elitist people or the "badasses" you talk about who would only see it their way and look down on me because I was a newb. Gun ownership is a journey, some of us are farther down the trail than others, and I just want to help good people along on this path if you will. Glad you got into the AR game and thanks for the feedback.
-Mr. 2nd
Very good video, to the point, clear and indeed helpful around the world. Very well presented in a way anyone into teaching could learn from. Thumbs up and thank you.
I did infantry basic in 86 at Ft Benning(Sand Hill). We went through gallons of WD-40 cleaning and lubing our weapons. I wonder if it was a plot by the Drill Sargents to keep us cleaning the M-16’s constantly. The WD-40 would collect tons of dirt and grime. So, after cleaning the gun and as we put them back together, we would spray half a can into the weapon. What a mess.
Gun laws are like telling law abiding drivers that they can't have cars because drunk drivers too have cars.
Very thorough, the fact that you made it very clear this is your method of doing this was great.
Thanks
Great video. Every gun is different. For example, my Beretta 92FS needs less lubricant than my SIG Sauer P226. The SIG will actually experience failure to extract if it isn't "wet". I oil both a little more than many shooters would, but I oil the SIG a little more than the Beretta.
I use Lucas Red bearing grease applied with a hobby brush to the same points. I also use synthetic machine oil on internal pivot parts. Any petroleum product will tend to evaporate over time. Bearing grease and synthetic oil sticks around for a long time.
Thanks Mr2nd, built my first AR, a month ago, and upgrading, and still researching optics, but good info
Its important to remember that EVERY gun is different. Some like to be ran wet and some run dry. Sure it was designed to run "dry" but every gun likes what it likes.
This is a journey ,we learn as we go.Prophetic words.Thanks
I as well am new to the AR 15 world and this is a perfect video for me! Even though I don't have a gas system I have a piston Sig516 this video enlightened me because I was about to drench the rifle with oil before watching this video so thanks !!
Excellent "How to" video. Thanks for taking the time to make it and focus-in on the key parts to lubricate. Very helpful. Cheers!
Great video , clear and very understandable. Appreciate the simplicity for new gun owners.
There's a grease like lubricant called battleborn grease, great product for ar platforms. I've been using it a long time and it doesn't take much to lubricate gun parts.
I find that a little bacon grease really makes a huge difference in performance. Your AR will really appreciate it. As will the other shooters at the range when they smell breakfast cooking.
+bestguitar11
Unconventional but I've seen guys do this (and use Crisco or lard for the big stuff). Not my first choice in peaceful times when I have access to my preferred lubricants (synthetics) but in times of sparse supplies and times of need, it will work. 18th and 19th Century soldiers would use whatever was available to prevent rust on their muskets, including leftover grease from the campfire skillet, so it has historical roots and does work, although not my preferred method unless I have to. Good intell.
Less is more in the way I see it. I've seen the videos of the guy putting the rifle together just dripping in oil stating "ARs like to be run wet...". That's just more crap to attract dust, carbon, etc. May as well wrap sandpaper on your BCG and install that thing. I only lightly coat oil on the moving pieces, put some on the rails of the BCG, and put it together. Very similar in process to how you've done it. Good job.
All metal parts should have some oil to prevent rust. Not a lot at all but they will rust if not.
I do agree with the buffer part I would just use a CLP wipe clean and lube at same time then throw it back in. However like I said after a few range uses if I don't want to clean but it's a little dry which you'll hear when you manipulate charging handle don't be afraid at competitions shooters literally spray right into the ejection port!
After 40 or 50 rounds my 15 was starting to jam when I was stingy with lube. After using a little more oil on the bolt and some grease on the four contact points on the carrier I haven’t had any more problems. I know they say not to use grease but I just put a dab and spread it. I do clean my rifle after every time I shoot it.
Good job! Very down to earth easy to follow explanation of the important parts and points!👍🏻
I believe in Reid Hendrix Philosophy it’s better to have a dirty rifle that’s wet then one that’s dry, your method is good for just going to the range but listen to the guys who are in combat situation‘s they’ll tell you different, Run them wet, not dripping wet but wet, I do appreciate your opinion and your video however and thank you, you are absolutely correct on the cam pin highest ware most lubricated part
I have TONS to learn and this video was super helpful! Makes sense oil should only go on places where metal on metal touch. GOOD STUFF!
When I clean my AR. I use a solvent made by Hoppes and use 3in1 oil. Clean with the solvent until the patches come out pretty clean. Then I pull a few dry patches out and then run a couple oil patches in with a small minimum amount of oil, that's it. The bolt gets a great amount of foul, hard, dry substance on it where the neck of it is which a brush is not going to remove it, so on that I scrape my knife blade around it to remove it. They actual sell a scraper tool to remove it, but the tool won't do any better that good ole buck knife will do. Other than the bit of oil while cleaning the gun, I don't oil it anywhere. It's fired probably 4000 to 6000 rds through it.
Hoppes and smells good to boot. Been using it for many years. Don’t seem to smell as good as years back. Same boat light oil in key locations. More don’t mean better.
I agree up to a point, but anywhere metal slides against metal there should be oil in some place and thicker lube in others.
Way too much dust and dirt?? Have you not seen the MANS Larry Vickers video of the myth of over lubrication..... I say they don't have to be white gloved clean, but they need to be lubed. I run a gun shop and range we have an AR rental and I can attest that thing has been so dirty it shouldn't have run but spray some good quality go juice and bam she is running flawlessly.
Came here for the cleaning part and I left learning what each thing was 😂 thank you! I'm just getting on the bandwagon of AR's.
I've been wondering how to take care of my gun for a little while now, and this was the perfect video. Thanks!
I shoot mine about 1 times a year. How often should you lube when your rifle is in storage for long periods? Thanks, great video on the subject.
Good video and good points. I lube only the contact points. Has worked for me for over 30 years.