This is a good video on the basics of installing, but it doesn't cover the gas block hole to barrel hole alignment. If the gas block you are installing happens to index perfectly against the hand guard piece or quad rail, that's great, but that's not always going to be the case. I'd like to see a video on how to do that alignment.
im sorry but i have to say it, while your video quality is not as high as a competitors videos... the information given is much higher quality, longer length,more indepth and is not just to sell a product. infact i have noticed its very rare that someone will say "you can buy this part from us" with every tiny tool because its obvious where the items came from!!!. you are trying to help customers who are not gunsmiths by trade. for that i applaud you brownells even if i have never ordered anything from either you or your competitor. well not yet anyways and i know who i will be picking :) happy holidays brownells staff.
Also many gas blocks of the low profile design have a set screw directly beneath the gas port. Many barrels also come with a indent for said set screw. For other types, such as clamp on, measuring and witness marks is the best thing.
That’s funny.. I’m actually looking to remove the modular gas block and replace it with a A2 front sight gas block. I guess I’ll watch the video backwards! :)
So I changed up an m16a4 upper to a low profile gas block (well my gunsmith did) but now I have this small little section of barrel that is in the white showing, that the new gas system doesn’t cover up, I was wondering if there was a way to re-finish over that small section or, if there was anything I could do, really, to not have this shiny ring 3/4 way down my barrel! Lol
There are oils that when you prelube those pins that they do indeed come out that easy sewing machine oil is a very good example of an oil that will seap into the pin holes to allow for lubration of the pins after a few minutes
I have one picatiny gas block on my current AR. What I want to do is mound a smaller gas block on there to put a longer rail on there to cover the gas block and have a free float rail. What do you suggest?
I'm in in the process of deciding between purchasing an aluminum or stainless steel gas block for my AR 15, Are there any advantages of stainless over aluminum? Any feedback about this is appreciated, thanks.
No they are not. The exchange of two unknowns. Installing a gas block requires a significant teardown of your upper. By profession I am a Naval Gun Engineer. IMO you're better off learning to hand load and tailor rounds to fit your rifle. It's the reason Companies don't for example, include adjustable blocks. Keep what you got. I know SCAR come with the adjustable blocks but you must realize your introducing more variables into what's now more unknowns.
When you say function test do you just fire a few rounds to make sure everythings in sync or do you actually go the the point of almost a "stress test"
JEW BURNER I've put close to 2,000 rounds of Wolf Polyformace steel case through my Sig Sauer M400, not one hiccup. Not saying it won't happen, because all firearms WILL malfunction, but Sig knows how to make stuff work.
Is there really no better way to make a gas block picatinny rail like that one will be completely straight when mounting it? I'm considering doing this to my rifle for a front sight.
I hope this doesnt sound like a stupid question but with that front site, i have a 300 blackout and the gas block is already set up and to be honest i dont want to mess with it just wanted to add that style front site, is it possible to add that without messing with the gas system?
I did this recently and there are holes in the barrel left by the taper pins. Should I plug up the holes in the barrel left by the taper pins before firing the weapon?
For the gas block set screws, we suggest using 272 Red Loctite but be aware if you need to remove the screws you will have to heat the gas block up with a propane or MAPP gas torch to remove the screws.
The gas block takes the pressure from the barrel when the bullet is flying down it and sends the pressure down the gas tube to push the bolt back and eject the shell and load a new round. Technically you can shoot without one, but shit will fly upwards out of the port in the barrel and you will have to manually pull the charging handle after each shot.
@@richbradley9043 No problem. Just stick the straw inside the gas tube from the receiver end (make sure its inside the tube) and your other hand or someone else with their hand at the muzzle end. You should feel a good bit of air while you do it coming our of the muzzle end. You could also use a post it not or piece of tape at the muzzle end. Good luck chief...
We cannot confirm that this is or isn't a JP Gas Block however the JP Gas Block is very similar as are options from Yankee Hill Machine, Double Star and more
an easier way to me is since its an a3 upper...just turn it upside down and put it on a flat surface like a table and make sure it it coplaner.if its not then just adjust it to where it is.
Basic video..but didn't give size of punches. And those pins NEVER comes out as easy as he showed them to do...I ruined a really good punch on my LR-308 because I had to beat the hell out of those pins...And this particular gun didn't have over 300 rounds through it so wasn't because of heating and cooling that much...
especially with low gas blocks available to cheap if you know where to look. and a take off triangle sight block costs more than one of the low-pro blocks. so could recoup most of your money.
Curses to S&W for making their taper pins too snug for simple removal. So I ordered some Kroil and the orange block in hopes that I can get this damnable gas block removed/replaced.
SuperMeatMachine Smith & Wesson Pins Drive out from the opposite side than most do. If you have any type of calipers that can read the size of pin head, drive it from the side with the largest head
This is a good video on the basics of installing, but it doesn't cover the gas block hole to barrel hole alignment. If the gas block you are installing happens to index perfectly against the hand guard piece or quad rail, that's great, but that's not always going to be the case. I'd like to see a video on how to do that alignment.
The right tools make any job easier and quicker. Thanks for showing us how it's done.
Great video -- how do you plan on installing the handguard ? Take everything apart and do it all over again ....
im sorry but i have to say it, while your video quality is not as high as a competitors videos... the information given is much higher quality, longer length,more indepth and is not just to sell a product. infact i have noticed its very rare that someone will say "you can buy this part from us" with every tiny tool because its obvious where the items came from!!!. you are trying to help customers who are not gunsmiths by trade. for that i applaud you brownells even if i have never ordered anything from either you or your competitor. well not yet anyways and i know who i will be picking :) happy holidays brownells staff.
We used to use china markers to draw on set lines so we new the gas ports were lined up but it added extra time to a relatively simple thing
Also many gas blocks of the low profile design have a set screw directly beneath the gas port. Many barrels also come with a indent for said set screw. For other types, such as clamp on, measuring and witness marks is the best thing.
That’s funny.. I’m actually looking to remove the modular gas block and replace it with a A2 front sight gas block. I guess I’ll watch the video backwards! :)
should you loctite the allan keys on the bottom of the gas block and what keeps it from rotating around the barrel? thanks
Why no dimpling for the set screws? From what I understand dimpling makes the block MUCH more secure and is specifically recommended by Larue, etc.
So I changed up an m16a4 upper to a low profile gas block (well my gunsmith did) but now I have this small little section of barrel that is in the white showing, that the new gas system doesn’t cover up, I was wondering if there was a way to re-finish over that small section or, if there was anything I could do, really, to not have this shiny ring 3/4 way down my barrel! Lol
Those pins never come out that easily.
Never haha.
I’m getting that orange holder it’s way easier with that
Especially the tapered ones that BCM uses. Certainly need a much larger and heavier hammer as well in my experience.
There are oils that when you prelube those pins that they do indeed come out that easy sewing machine oil is a very good example of an oil that will seap into the pin holes to allow for lubration of the pins after a few minutes
Sure@@richardfunk5980
Thanks for this. I found that a 1/16" punch worked perfectly.
how do you know that the gas block is lined up to the gas hole on the top of the barrel?
I have one picatiny gas block on my current AR. What I want to do is mound a smaller gas block on there to put a longer rail on there to cover the gas block and have a free float rail. What do you suggest?
I LEARNED SOMETHING THANK YOU GOD BLESS
What's the name for this specific gas block? Also would the rail on the gas block be level with the primary rail or is there a height difference?
great video exactly what i needed to know
I'm in in the process of deciding between purchasing an aluminum or stainless steel gas block for my AR 15, Are there any advantages of stainless over aluminum? Any feedback about this is appreciated, thanks.
steel, all the way. aluminum gas block erode quickly around the gas hole.
Excellent! Just what I needed. Thank you. Are the gas blocks standardized height?
No they are not. The exchange of two unknowns. Installing a gas block requires a significant teardown of your upper. By profession I am a Naval Gun Engineer. IMO you're better off learning to hand load and tailor rounds to fit your rifle. It's the reason Companies don't for example, include adjustable blocks. Keep what you got. I know SCAR come with the adjustable blocks but you must realize your introducing more variables into what's now more unknowns.
jamesdewer I had no intention of using an adjustable gas block but thanks anyway.
Is the gas outlet from the barrel and the gas block being given?
What is the model of low profile gas block in this video ?
When you say function test do you just fire a few rounds to make sure everythings in sync or do you actually go the the point of almost a "stress test"
Chem istry when i function test i usually jsut get about 100 rounds and see how much it jams
any more then 1 jam and somethings wrong the way i see it
JEW BURNER I've put close to 2,000 rounds of Wolf Polyformace steel case through my Sig Sauer M400, not one hiccup. Not saying it won't happen, because all firearms WILL malfunction, but Sig knows how to make stuff work.
Is there really no better way to make a gas block picatinny rail like that one will be completely straight when mounting it?
I'm considering doing this to my rifle for a front sight.
I hope this doesnt sound like a stupid question but with that front site, i have a 300 blackout and the gas block is already set up and to be honest i dont want to mess with it just wanted to add that style front site, is it possible to add that without messing with the gas system?
No.
I did this recently and there are holes in the barrel left by the taper pins. Should I plug up the holes in the barrel left by the taper pins before firing the weapon?
you dont have to. they arent going to leak the gasses out, your good to go
Wish my tapered pins would come out that easy
Which one is the best gas tube and gas block to shoot up to 5,000 + rounds
Any
what type of thread lock you guys use for the set screw
For the gas block set screws, we suggest using 272 Red Loctite but be aware if you need to remove the screws you will have to heat the gas block up with a propane or MAPP gas torch to remove the screws.
Brownells, Inc. Thanks
Brownells, Inc. do you test fire before you apply loctite ?
What kind and size punch do you use to remove the gas block
honestly, just grab a set of punches with varying sizes. if you work on guns you will use most of them eventually. they are not all that expensive
1/8th inch punch for most
Remove gas tube on a 1000 rounds later vid. Please. How u get it out.
This is actually a promo for the block holder lol
why is a gas block necessary or better than not having one?
An AR-15 wont cycle without one. Its probably the most important piece to the proper operation of an AR-15
The gas block takes the pressure from the barrel when the bullet is flying down it and sends the pressure down the gas tube to push the bolt back and eject the shell and load a new round. Technically you can shoot without one, but shit will fly upwards out of the port in the barrel and you will have to manually pull the charging handle after each shot.
Rubiconnn m
So, you just give it a quick look down the barrel and you know the gas port is aligned? How about actually showing the procedure to aligned the ports?
Richard Jimenez canned air is the best way i have found along with visual confirmation.
@@boss350z5 good idea. Thanks.
@@richbradley9043 No problem. Just stick the straw inside the gas tube from the receiver end (make sure its inside the tube) and your other hand or someone else with their hand at the muzzle end. You should feel a good bit of air while you do it coming our of the muzzle end. You could also use a post it not or piece of tape at the muzzle end. Good luck chief...
I'm pounding on my pins with no luck they won't budge no matter what I try
have you tried to see if your hammering the wrong side? they go in and out one way. not sure if that could be your problem or not
Nicksyz2501 Qa
Is that a JP gas block?
We cannot confirm that this is or isn't a JP Gas Block however the JP Gas Block is very similar as are options from Yankee Hill Machine, Double Star and more
Very Helpful! Thanks!
Calculator watch. Awesome!
an easier way to me is since its an a3 upper...just turn it upside down and put it on a flat surface like a table and make sure it it coplaner.if its not then just adjust it to where it is.
thank you for the video sir.
You cant just look down the top nd see that its aligned.
Because if it wasn't, the roll pin wouldn't go back in. Unless the new block wasn't made to proper specs, of course.
Basic video..but didn't give size of punches. And those pins NEVER comes out as easy as he showed them to do...I ruined a really good punch on my LR-308 because I had to beat the hell out of those pins...And this particular gun didn't have over 300 rounds through it so wasn't because of heating and cooling that much...
Just get it off and get it back on quick. I don't there is another way.
why not just take a hack saw to the triangle sight? save some time worry and money
because it looks like crap unless your handguard can cover it.
Because not all AR15 owners are, um... as frugal.
especially with low gas blocks available to cheap if you know where to look.
and a take off triangle sight block costs more than one of the low-pro blocks. so could recoup most of your money.
That's what I did, and touched it up with a little cold blue. Looks great, works well and didn't cost anything.
Everyone you know laughs at you
TAPER PINS SUCK
Curses to S&W for making their taper pins too snug for simple removal. So I ordered some Kroil and the orange block in hopes that I can get this damnable gas block removed/replaced.
SuperMeatMachine Smith & Wesson Pins Drive out from the opposite side than most do. If you have any type of calipers that can read the size of pin head, drive it from the side with the largest head
what is that rest he is using?
This one right here :) bit.ly/1oTB66p