No matter which gas block you buy, make sure it isn’t made from aluminum. Steel only. The hot gases are corrosive and will eat the block port on the barrel making it larger until there is leakage.
I have some experience with after market gas blocks... Unless you plan on running a suppressor, go with a 20-30$ low profile gas block. You'll be good to go. If you DO intend to run a can - definitely go with an adjustable
I ALWAYS ENJOY YOUR VIDEOS. I AM A RETIRED SOLDIER (1SG) CAVALRY TROOPER THAT APPRECIATE YOUR KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE WITH THE AR PLATFORM/STONER RIFLE. STONER DESIGNED THE RIFLE, IN THE EVENT OF FAILURE, IT WOULD OCCUR WITH THE GAS BLOCK AND TUBE. MANY BUDGET BUILDERS CAN BENEFIT FROM THIS VIDEO. THANKS!!!
I bought 4 of the same YHM gas Block's for $11 Buck's each at midwayusa and they all fit nicely on my Bear Creek Arsenal barrels. your review reminded me to buy some more for future builds. Thanks for the reminder! 😊
Loven the series. Name it Average Joe. We need a video of the ins and outs of the adjustable gas block. show the signs of to much gas to little and what the best practices are.
I always check the gas tube inlet hole matches with the gas block port and also that they are the same size hole. There are some slight variations between manufacturers.
You could've got a steel adjustable gas block for less than the YHM to have kept the comparison more even keeled. I like to dimple my cheap adjustable GBs, which I bought a 10 pack for like $100, so I have them on everything.
I have their 20" upper with 17" M-lok rail. Shooting iron sights, I'm very pleased with the 2 1/2"-3 1/2" groups I'm getting bench rested @ 100 yards, and that's even with 55gr Wolf ammunition. I'm sure with higher quality ammo and an optic, it'll be a sub moa rifle, no doubt.
Thank you for the video. I am going to be in the process of building a new upper. I do see the advantage of an adjustable gas block and your recoil being less. That anything put on the end of your barrel changes pressures also. Many of us have never built guns or would understand how things work with out videos like your. Thank you.
They all have the first set screw aligned with the gas port. When they make a gas block they drill out the first set screw hole straight through and drill out the gas port at the same time, then they re-drill the set screw hole to the correct size and thread for the set screw. That's another reason I like set screw gas blocks versus clamp-on gas blocks. My two go too's are Strike Industries for a straight and simple gas block and Superlative Arms for an adjustable gas block. I also use my KAK Dimpling jig and put dimples in my barrels to keep the gas system aligned and it also helps in keeping the set screws tight because of the more contact surface between the barrel and the set screws.
THANK YOU! It's about time someone made a video about using quality gas blocks in their builds. Nothing burns my ass more than the plethora of Facebook posts about "My gun won't cycle" DO NOT cheap out on these parts. The gun will not function for long if at all if you have a poorly machined gas block.
Some of the roll pins that comes with gas tubes and parts kits that I get are soft metal. They ether bend or mushroom out makes me question the rest of the bag
I am a first-time builder of an AR-15 nice to be able to see how you installed the pin and tube in to gas block showing how whole would lineup in the gas block before you put it on the barrel just saying
Kota get the gas block jig from shockwave guys. Awesome tool and takes all the guesswork out of it! Very reasonably priced. Proper spacing is very seldomly butted up agains the barrel, your eye isn't seeing it.get the jig its will worth the money
I have an odin adjustable block works great. As a note, i have a mil spec weight bcg and an h2 buffer. My barrel is a Daniel Defense pinned 14.5" with a carbine length system. With 5.56 im at 12 out of 20 clicks to cycle properly and 14 with 223. I keep it at 16 or 17 for more reliable action. DD tend to have large gas ports so keep in mind if you have a similar setup, you may be running close to wide open on the gas block. But it works great and im glad i can taper the gas back to where it works just right without overgassing. You can rebuild them too which is awesome. Def recommend odins products. Havent had something from them i dont like as of yet
For mounting systems I always like the clamp-style system, as opposed to set-screws. Just like Hornady reloading die collars that clamp as opposed to RCBS set-screw collars. Agree or disagree?
Keep up this kind of interesting series. My first AR upper was pre-assembled by a local vendor and I missed out on the finer points of a full AR build, with all of the considerations. Love it, man! 😁
building a rifle i would put and adjustable one on. not a question. i have a in. exp adj. on my 7.5 and it worked great. lock it down. on my bcm 11.5 i have a bootlegger adjustable bolt carrier. to me thats the way to go if rifle doesnt have it already and you wanna make a change. can really dial in recoil on the bcg fast as opposed to gas block.
My race gun has an adjustable block but my play guns are all wide open. Same thing with my bolts, light-weight weird metal coating, (gold whatever that is) and my play guns are black and cheap. Funny thing is the cheapo guns always give me no issues with just about any crap I loud into them but my race gun is set to shoot 62gr Remington and that’s pretty much all it can shoot and needs to be cleaned every 500rds or simply doesn’t work. My 7.62 x 39 SBR with a no name upper and Anderson lower eats corrosive ammo for breakfast and doesn’t get cleaned enough and still has no noticeable erosion on the gas hole or even the tube after thousands of rounds of cheap Com Bloc ammo.
Just got my suppressor in and fired several out of it ,need to put a adjustable gas block on 2 of my ar rifle. What adjustable gas block do you suggest the suppressor is a 36m silencerco. Need for a 223 556 and a 762x39 rifle
I can't wait to see the finished products! Recently I've built my third AR and it was a medium build, but so far my favorite out of the bunch. 20" BCA upper with PSA Freedom lower, CMMG lower parts kit, UTG A2 stock kit, Magpul MOE grip, JP carry handle, Troy fixed front sight. I have severely depleted my ammo supply thanks to this rifle, had over 1200 rounds at home, now I have less than 200... Good thing I'm getting all this overtime at work, I need lots more ammo! Happy 4th y'all!
@@jacobsmith4308 Mine did that at first, it took about 50-60 rounds before it started to cycle properly. My guess is that there may have been some machining material in the gas port. Once it started to cycle it didn't have any further issues.
Thank you, great video as I am still learning about AR's and I appreciate easy to follow information like this. I went with a PSA lower and BCA upper for my first build. Learn on the cheap and build a better one when I know what I'm doing.😉
@@pimplepickerton I'm very happy with mine. I don't shoot as much as the tacticool bros do, but I haven't had any problems so far. My first one was a 16" for my carbine. Then I built an AR pistol and used a BCA 10.5" upper. I have two more on the way. Another 10.5" and a 7.5" so I guess you could say I like them.👍🏻🍻
I love this series, it came just in time for my newest rifle. It's hard to figure out if the high dollar parts are any better than the basic budget parts. Thanks Kotaboy, your awesome!
I have a JP adjustable gas block on both of my ARs. I don't think I need to be brand loyal but I'll always go adjustable. I've had 2 instructors and 1 RSO stop me from shooting to ask why my rifles have so little recoil. On the few occassions I've let buddies fire them, I get the same reaction The main factors seem to be a rude compensator and an adjustable gas block that is properly dialed in.
You mentioned the difference between the mid length, and intermediate length gas tubes, the inter. being about 2" longer. If you're building with a mid length system, how do you take up the added 2"? Or is there an intermediate system? I don't know nuthin'. I've only seen barrels offered with carbine, mid, and rifle length gas systems.
KB I’ve built many AR’s for myself and others. I never buy expensive GBlocks and I shoot suppressor on all. And I’ve never had the 1st issue at all. So it’s one thing I’m not sold on. But good vid
Kota do you dimple the barrel if it has not been pre dimpled? how much or how often do you advise people to dimple their barrels prior to installing set screw low profile gas blocks?
If you're decreasing the gas by adjusting the flow to reduce recoil, does this put one in territory where some ammunition will not work? In other words, should you adjust from zero until it cycles, then open it up even further so the rifle will cycle most ammunition?
Kevin Roberts yeah I have no idea why all companies can’t butt their gas blocks right up to the shoulder. It’s one of those things that would make it too easy.
R Win The reason the gas block may need to be set off the shoulder is to provide a space for the handguard cap on spring loaded pop in hand guards. Normally, the gas hole in the gas block is oversized to accommodate the thickness of that cap, so you can still just bump the gas block to the shoulder of the barrel. After installing your gas block, spray some carb cleaner through the gas tube from inside the upper receiver and observe how much flows out the barrel. Also, before installing your hand guard, take the rifle out and shoot it and check how it is cycling and where it is ejecting the brass. When you get home, remove the gas block and check the carbon ring on the barrel around the gas port. That will tell you if your gas block is properly aligned or partially blocking the gas port. If you already knew all of this, never mind!!
Theunofficialresults Thanks for a the advice. I’ve always just ordered complete uppers from BCM. Ii know the AR is a extremely simple platform. However ’ve learned quite a bit more building instead of buying. It’s sort of like fine tuning a truck. Enjoy your 4th brother 🇺🇸
Cant wait.I just built a Economy Bushmaster 450 from PSA and it has an 18 in. BEAR CREEK ARSENAL BARREL. I have not fired it yet.Waiting on my scope to get here.
Maybe you can answer my question. I think it may be a stupid question (and I think I know the answer already), but if I buy an upper with a carbine length gas tube, could I then upgrade/lengthen the gas tube to a midlength gas tube? And if I can, as long as it fits on the barrel I have do I need anything beside a new gas tube and block, or will there be other parts I need too?
I just bought a 16inch 9MM complete upper from bear creek arsenal. From what I hear you get a great deal buying from them. Do you have an opinion on their quality?
A year later, but buy a set of roll pin installation punches. The end of the punch is drilled to just larger than the diameter of the roll pin so it holds the pin and makes driving it no big deal.
I don't think you can say that this gas block is better than that. I have a $15 gas block with very nice mill work made of 4150 steel, and I have Bravo company and a Aero Precision gas blocks. They are made of steel also, and all work the same as the other. But when you get into adjustable or titanium then there's a big difference . IMO
If someone wants to change out their AR15 barrel with a longer barrel, does this usually require a different length gas tube? Or do most replacement barrels have the gas hole drilled in the same distance away from the chamber? Also would love to know what parts are different on a floated barrel system which I understand can lend itself to greater accuracy. Thanks for your video. 🇺🇸 😁👍
The gas tube may be a different size in length depending on the barrel length. It could be either a rifle length, mid-length, or carbine length usually. The barrel manufacturer usually will specify which size gas tube is needed. As for the free-floated barrel, using a low profile gas block such one of the ones shown in this video will work with no problem. The inside diameter of your chosen rail may dictate what size gas block you can use. Check with the manufacturer to see what size gas block will fit. Buy either a steel or titanium gas block. Aluminum is not a good choice for this application. Typically I have not had a problem with using a low profile gas block with most of my builds. I did have one instance of a screw for my flashlight mount touching the gas block once though. I simply moved the mount. Hope this helps you.
@@StevenScalia Thank you for your information, I will look into all of this in the future. It’s very nice to know there are so many options for these Modern Sporting Rifles. 🇺🇸😎👍
Hey Kotanboy32. Ever tried using the YHM 9384 "clamp on" low profile gas block. I'm just curious as to the clearance required to get the new rail over the replacement gas block...
Nice. YHM are nice. The only problem I've ever had was the block was made not to shoulder. Needed the spacer. I've had various issues but Gas was never one of them. As u know its usually something stupid that occurred in assembly. Boy it's been awhile. I might have forgotten how the go together. Lmao.
After building four ARs and buying several more, I have no idea what brand of GBs I own and haven't ever had a problem. However; I'm not one to fire rapid groups or even lots and lots of rounds.
Kota-- Thanks for your efforts.-- I hope you or someone else will comment on my thought process regarding adjustable gas blocks. Before I get into it I will relay a comment made by a local gun smith who specializes in AR platforms. Basically he said that adjustable gas blocks do not hold up well. And as a result he will not use them. That being said here is my idea. Because my primary enjoyment comes from target shooting and load development, I thought I would install a adjustable gas block so that I am able to bypass the gas cycling completely in my AR. The thought is to minimize the incidental movement that might effect accuracy imparted by the bolt's travel. Sure, at this point the rifle becomes a single shot and I'm fine with that. Now I have to admit I don't know if the projectile has left the barrel before the bolt unlocks so the following may be academic. Over the years I have spent a fair amount of time studying barrel harmonics and have tuned many a load for a given bullet in a specific firearm, all in the quest to squeeze the best groups out of various rifles. I have done this in everything from BPCR rifles with custom designed & molded cast lead to factory stock actions and barrels with a fair amount of success. In each case, in order to reduce the human influences that contribute to flyers, I set up a rail system of sorts so the rifle can't do anything other then travel straight back upon firing. What I want to do is develop a subsonic, accurate load for both my 5.56 and a 300 Black out with lighter projectiles. I do have a Savage 110FP in 223 that will shoot in the 3's with regularity so that is my goal for the AR's, "If Possible" What I don't know AND hope someone who does, will tell me, Does the recoil impulse from the energy generated from firing of the bullet enough to unlock the bolt or is the energy from the gas required to do so....? Hence my desire to have a adjustable gas block whereby I can completely block the gas............... Thanks in advance for your comments.... RJ
I’ve been hearing good stuff about YHM. I’m making a build this month But I don’t know anything about there barrels. I read that they are not CHF Ed . I’ve been a Daniel defense buyer for a long time but they are just very expensive these days. Id like to hear your opinion on YHM ,s barrels and the difference .. im really excited to try their products. Thanks for this post. Take it easy bud. Mike.
I put that Odin Works one on a 11.5 psa upper and I only have it 3 clicks open and it runs great... That’s really not much though. What are your thoughts about it only being open that little. Bcm h3 buffer with Sprinco blue spring also.
Hey buddy did you ever figure it out? Have a 10.5" Aero 7.62x39 build and I put my Odin adj gas block on it and and it runs really well with only 3 turns out as well. So I pin guaged the gas port and it turned out it was grossly oversized for a carbine length gas system. Man id have done what most do and stick a carbine weight buffer in there with a regular wide open gas block I would have beaten my gun to death in short order. Probably would have sheared a lugs off the bolt. 7.62x39 AR doesn't have a strong bolt wall diameter to begin with. Just received my Suppresor, so the fun of tuning the gas on this gun will happen again. Like to hear if you figured yours out.
Aero gas blocks were $8.99 for 4th of July special. There's plenty of deals out there for budget minded folks. My theory is buy cheap and pimp it out as you go.
Kotaboy32 Tactical do you ever find that they back off or become mis aligned ? I thought it was necessary so i bought a jig to dimple the barrel on my build.
Great series! Don't know if you came up with a name for the budget rig (haven't watched the rest of the series yet), but I think "The Dude" would be a cool name. Jeff Bridges agrees with me!
Hey I no this is kinda old video but just wondering for your set screw blocks what torque do you use for the set screws? I can’t find an answer anywhere from superlative or BA lol
I bought a Ruger AR556 Friday, shot it the first time today and 50rnds in the gas block came loose. If the gun shop I purchased it as won't fix it should I just put a better gas block on it or what can I do to ensure the original doesn't come loose again?
Have been watching you for a few years and came back to this video because I was wondering if you could tell me what bit set that is you are useing? Thank you
question, I have a Daniel Defense DD5 V5 6.5 Creedmoor with a stock flashhider compensator etc called a "superior suppression device". too much hop off target so I swapped it with an American precision arms muzzle break and all of a sudden the gun won't cycle the next round. The gas block comes adjustable with an Allen wrench for "unsuppressed" or "suppressed" however I can't get it to move either way it is def not working but aside from that do muzzle breaks cause less gas to hit where it needs to? adjusting from unsuppressed to suppressed seems that will only cut even more gas furthering the guns inability to cycle. anyone have issues with this? or know how to fix it?
i'm on my fourth 3gun build and the last is a Superlative clamp-on. The previous three set-screw gas block builds were not dimpled and had no problems with about 15k rounds through them.
SLR Rifle Works makes a great dimpleing jig if you ever need or want to dimple the barrel. Also, they have a good selection of standard and adjustable gas blocks. Thanks for the vids.
I wish these videos were more specific, call outs, that is dimensioning, isn't clear. "This hex wrench" that "hole" it's unlikely your audience are engineers' but context really defines the subject especially highly technical content. Thanks for that.
Thank God, someone, finally, explains this kind of thing in easy to understand terms for us knuckledraggers, & w/o any gun snobbery.
I've really been enjoyin' Kotaboy's videos lately. I like his style.
Yup
No matter which gas block you buy, make sure it isn’t made from aluminum. Steel only. The hot gases are corrosive and will eat the block port on the barrel making it larger until there is leakage.
I have an Odin Works adjustable on my rifle and it is outstanding. I built that AR seven years ago and the adjustable gas block was a wise investment.
Do tell
I have some experience with after market gas blocks... Unless you plan on running a suppressor, go with a 20-30$ low profile gas block. You'll be good to go. If you DO intend to run a can - definitely go with an adjustable
Exactly,just got to remember the pressure change with a suppressor.
What manufacturers do you suggest
I was wondering what setting it's on from factory. I got a suppressor and it has Allen set screws to adjust.
I ALWAYS ENJOY YOUR VIDEOS. I AM A RETIRED SOLDIER (1SG) CAVALRY TROOPER THAT APPRECIATE YOUR KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE WITH THE AR PLATFORM/STONER RIFLE. STONER DESIGNED THE RIFLE, IN THE EVENT OF FAILURE, IT WOULD OCCUR WITH THE GAS BLOCK AND TUBE. MANY BUDGET BUILDERS CAN BENEFIT FROM THIS VIDEO. THANKS!!!
George ONeal Scouts out!
I bought 4 of the same YHM gas Block's for $11 Buck's each at midwayusa and they all fit nicely on my Bear Creek Arsenal barrels. your review reminded me to buy some more for future builds. Thanks for the reminder! 😊
Loven the series. Name it Average Joe. We need a video of the ins and outs of the adjustable gas block. show the signs of to much gas to little and what the best practices are.
I only use the superlative in the bleed off mode not the restriction. The bleed off option is the only way to go but expensive as you said.
I always check the gas tube inlet hole matches with the gas block port and also that they are the same size hole. There are some slight variations between manufacturers.
You could've got a steel adjustable gas block for less than the YHM to have kept the comparison more even keeled. I like to dimple my cheap adjustable GBs, which I bought a 10 pack for like $100, so I have them on everything.
So far every Bear Creek barrel I've used has been dimpled that really makes gas block alignment a snap.
I built one with a 18 inch fluted stainless Barrel with black nitride. Shoots just fine
I have their 20" upper with 17" M-lok rail. Shooting iron sights, I'm very pleased with the 2 1/2"-3 1/2" groups I'm getting bench rested @ 100 yards, and that's even with 55gr Wolf ammunition. I'm sure with higher quality ammo and an optic, it'll be a sub moa rifle, no doubt.
Thankfully my BCA complete upper assembly was dimpled, They forgot the set screws in the block.
@@toddk1377 no doubt
@@bluesbondsman I've got another 16" 7.62x39 barrel coming from BCA today. You just can't beat their prices
I had an issue with my gas block and now I know why. Thanks for the video!
to eliminate the marring of the finish ,use roll pin punches for holding and seating your pins. correct tools for the job
I think you give the block some space from the shoulder to allow for heat expansion so it doesnt expand against the shoulder
Thank you for the video. I am going to be in the process of building a new upper. I do see the advantage of an adjustable gas block and your recoil being less. That anything put on the end of your barrel changes pressures also. Many of us have never built guns or would understand how things work with out videos like your. Thank you.
They all have the first set screw aligned with the gas port. When they make a gas block they drill out the first set screw hole straight through and drill out the gas port at the same time, then they re-drill the set screw hole to the correct size and thread for the set screw. That's another reason I like set screw gas blocks versus clamp-on gas blocks. My two go too's are Strike Industries for a straight and simple gas block and Superlative Arms for an adjustable gas block. I also use my KAK Dimpling jig and put dimples in my barrels to keep the gas system aligned and it also helps in keeping the set screws tight because of the more contact surface between the barrel and the set screws.
THANK YOU! It's about time someone made a video about using quality gas blocks in their builds. Nothing burns my ass more than the plethora of Facebook posts about "My gun won't cycle" DO NOT cheap out on these parts. The gun will not function for long if at all if you have a poorly machined gas block.
Some of the roll pins that comes with gas tubes and parts kits that I get are soft metal. They ether bend or mushroom out makes me question the rest of the bag
I use the Odin Works AGB. Works awesome on my Carbine length. Not so well on my rifle length barrel.
I am looking forward to these builds and see the accuracy comparison. Thanks KB
I am a first-time builder of an AR-15 nice to be able to see how you installed the pin and tube in to gas block showing how whole would lineup in the gas block before you put it on the barrel just saying
Kota get the gas block jig from shockwave guys. Awesome tool and takes all the guesswork out of it! Very reasonably priced. Proper spacing is very seldomly butted up agains the barrel, your eye isn't seeing it.get the jig its will worth the money
Love this channel! Most knowledgeable, useful person on here for firearm related content. Thank you sir.
I have an odin adjustable block works great. As a note, i have a mil spec weight bcg and an h2 buffer. My barrel is a Daniel Defense pinned 14.5" with a carbine length system. With 5.56 im at 12 out of 20 clicks to cycle properly and 14 with 223. I keep it at 16 or 17 for more reliable action. DD tend to have large gas ports so keep in mind if you have a similar setup, you may be running close to wide open on the gas block. But it works great and im glad i can taper the gas back to where it works just right without overgassing. You can rebuild them too which is awesome. Def recommend odins products. Havent had something from them i dont like as of yet
" IN-CO-NELL" is a iron nickel Cobalt steel alloy. Higher strength and corrosion resistance at high temperatures then conventional stainless steels.
Yes they make turbo charger blades out of it it's a metal that is hard to work with
Dude, I love your videos. Lots of common sense, no bullshit.
Love the Odin Works Gas Block
Deffinatly grabbing one or 2 for myself.
I use them exclusively. I also use their adjustable buffers in tandom with the gas block
I use ODIN works part on my DPMS and DELTON. Muzzle brake, hand gard, gas block, trigger's and hand grips. Good part's LR-308 & AR-10
For mounting systems I always like the clamp-style system, as opposed to set-screws. Just like Hornady reloading die collars that clamp as opposed to RCBS set-screw collars. Agree or disagree?
YHM makes good stuff man . I absolutely love their Gas Blocks and Cans .
Keep up this kind of interesting series. My first AR upper was pre-assembled by a local vendor and I missed out on the finer points of a full AR build, with all of the considerations. Love it, man! 😁
Where did you get that nice bit file / bit holder? Great info here thank you.
building a rifle i would put and adjustable one on. not a question. i have a in. exp adj. on my 7.5 and it worked great. lock it down. on my bcm 11.5 i have a bootlegger adjustable bolt carrier. to me thats the way to go if rifle doesnt have it already and you wanna make a change. can really dial in recoil on the bcg fast as opposed to gas block.
The "LINE" ON the odin works adj gas block is for use with an odin works barrel. The corresponding line exists on all their barrels
Thank you, good to know
My race gun has an adjustable block but my play guns are all wide open. Same thing with my bolts, light-weight weird metal coating, (gold whatever that is) and my play guns are black and cheap. Funny thing is the cheapo guns always give me no issues with just about any crap I loud into them but my race gun is set to shoot 62gr Remington and that’s pretty much all it can shoot and needs to be cleaned every 500rds or simply doesn’t work. My 7.62 x 39 SBR with a no name upper and Anderson lower eats corrosive ammo for breakfast and doesn’t get cleaned enough and still has no noticeable erosion on the gas hole or even the tube after thousands of rounds of cheap Com Bloc ammo.
Just got my suppressor in and fired several out of it ,need to put a adjustable gas block on 2 of my ar rifle. What adjustable gas block do you suggest the suppressor is a 36m silencerco. Need for a 223 556 and a 762x39 rifle
I like the adjustable one for my suppressor on the 300 blackout.
What's a good place to adjust for a 62 grain 5.56 round? Don't know what I should set it to for a perfect cycle.
I'm loving this series brother, thanks for the hard work
I watched the entire build. Id love you to swap the muzzle break between the Eco1 and Monty and see what difference it makes
Thanks for your time in keeping us informed. Also love the choices your are making since they are products that I have little experience with.
I can't wait to see the finished products! Recently I've built my third AR and it was a medium build, but so far my favorite out of the bunch. 20" BCA upper with PSA Freedom lower, CMMG lower parts kit, UTG A2 stock kit, Magpul MOE grip, JP carry handle, Troy fixed front sight. I have severely depleted my ammo supply thanks to this rifle, had over 1200 rounds at home, now I have less than 200... Good thing I'm getting all this overtime at work, I need lots more ammo! Happy 4th y'all!
its 2022 inflation is killing us and ammo is waaay to high no one is really shooting. but buying and saving.
Have you had any problems with it not cycling? I have a 20 in bca upper as well but it shoots and doesn’t eject or cycle
@@jacobsmith4308
Mine did that at first, it took about 50-60 rounds before it started to cycle properly. My guess is that there may have been some machining material in the gas port. Once it started to cycle it didn't have any further issues.
Thank you, great video as I am still learning about AR's and I appreciate easy to follow information like this. I went with a PSA lower and BCA upper for my first build. Learn on the cheap and build a better one when I know what I'm doing.😉
I am about to get my first BCA completed upper. Are you happy with yours? Any thoughts, tips or tricks, or advice? Any input is appreciated.
@@pimplepickerton I'm very happy with mine. I don't shoot as much as the tacticool bros do, but I haven't had any problems so far. My first one was a 16" for my carbine. Then I built an AR pistol and used a BCA 10.5" upper. I have two more on the way. Another 10.5" and a 7.5" so I guess you could say I like them.👍🏻🍻
@@budgetguncinema7777 good call man. I appreciate the input. Thanks man
I love this series, it came just in time for my newest rifle. It's hard to figure out if the high dollar parts are any better than the basic budget parts. Thanks Kotaboy, your awesome!
Be careful not to lose the detent ball when you clean it. Bought one and changed back to SA after one trip to range
. To much work to change settings.
I have a JP adjustable gas block on both of my ARs. I don't think I need to be brand loyal but I'll always go adjustable. I've had 2 instructors and 1 RSO stop me from shooting to ask why my rifles have so little recoil. On the few occassions I've let buddies fire them, I get the same reaction The main factors seem to be a rude compensator and an adjustable gas block that is properly dialed in.
I am really liking what you're doing with this series. The is good content. Keep 'em coming. Bravo Zulu
How is that odin adjustable gas block holding up?
Does the gas tube ever need to be cleaned out?
You mentioned the difference between the mid length, and intermediate length gas tubes, the inter. being about 2" longer. If you're building with a mid length system, how do you take up the added 2"? Or is there an intermediate system? I don't know nuthin'. I've only seen barrels offered with carbine, mid, and rifle length gas systems.
KB I’ve built many AR’s for myself and others. I never buy expensive GBlocks and I shoot suppressor on all. And I’ve never had the 1st issue at all. So it’s one thing I’m not sold on. But good vid
How about that? I'm actually learning about building an AR-15!
I used to be scares to work on my own rifles but glad I got over that
Kota do you dimple the barrel if it has not been pre dimpled? how much or how often do you advise people to dimple their barrels prior to installing set screw low profile gas blocks?
If you're decreasing the gas by adjusting the flow to reduce recoil, does this put one in territory where some ammunition will not work? In other words, should you adjust from zero until it cycles, then open it up even further so the rifle will cycle most ammunition?
Type a rifle company recommends exactly that. Go to where it functions reliably and open it 1 more, or 2 if you want it really reliable.
WTF SoCal found out about some gas blocks need to be a little off the shoulder. Great job explaining this, thank you Kotaboy32 for 🇺🇸
Kevin Roberts yeah I have no idea why all companies can’t butt their gas blocks right up to the shoulder. It’s one of those things that would make it too easy.
R Win
The reason the gas block may need to be set off the shoulder is to provide a space for the handguard cap on spring loaded pop in hand guards. Normally, the gas hole in the gas block is oversized to accommodate the thickness of that cap, so you can still just bump the gas block to the shoulder of the barrel.
After installing your gas block, spray some carb cleaner through the gas tube from inside the upper receiver and observe how much flows out the barrel.
Also, before installing your hand guard, take the rifle out and shoot it and check how it is cycling and where it is ejecting the brass. When you get home, remove the gas block and check the carbon ring on the barrel around the gas port. That will tell you if your gas block is properly aligned or partially blocking the gas port.
If you already knew all of this, never mind!!
@@theunofficialresults231 That's what I found out too
Theunofficialresults Thanks for a the advice. I’ve always just ordered complete uppers from BCM. Ii know the AR is a extremely simple platform. However ’ve learned quite a bit more building instead of buying. It’s sort of like fine tuning a truck. Enjoy your 4th brother 🇺🇸
@@romeowhiskeylima556 yep, happy America's Birthday 🇺🇸
Thank you Kotaboy...your content is always helpful.
Cant wait.I just built a Economy Bushmaster 450 from PSA and it has an 18 in. BEAR CREEK ARSENAL BARREL.
I have not fired it yet.Waiting on my scope to get here.
Don't forget that the adjustable can also help when suppressors mess with your cycling.
Maybe you can answer my question. I think it may be a stupid question (and I think I know the answer already), but if I buy an upper with a carbine length gas tube, could I then upgrade/lengthen the gas tube to a midlength gas tube? And if I can, as long as it fits on the barrel I have do I need anything beside a new gas tube and block, or will there be other parts I need too?
Odin works seems to be stepping up their game. Muzzle breaks, precision armament M4-72 severe duty from optics planet, best brake out there.
Please can you tell us about the receivers you used on each rifle
That's coming up
With the adjustable gas blocks. You should tune it to run just a little over gassed. Not to much over gassed and you’ll feel more secured.
Where can I find your video for accurizing barrel ?
Noob here, so with the adjustable GB, basically you shoot and adjust to how you want its recoil?
ruclips.net/video/OB2CbFOZGgo/видео.html
Your channel is underrated
I just bought a 16inch 9MM complete upper from bear creek arsenal. From what I hear you get a great deal buying from them. Do you have an opinion on their quality?
Check all your screws
With the odin adjustable block, i had to put the handguard on first then the gas block
My most hated task in an AR build - installing that blasted gas tube pin.
I have the Real Avid AR block, makes it a snap!
I lighly bevel the roll pin, help guide it in much faster.
I hear you, man. I'm now using a Knipex plier wrench to press in the pin. A great improvement for me.
@@jaberie308 I just got me a pair of those, and for that very reason.
A year later, but buy a set of roll pin installation punches. The end of the punch is drilled to just larger than the diameter of the roll pin so it holds the pin and makes driving it no big deal.
I don't think you can say that this gas block is better than that. I have a $15 gas block with very nice mill work made of 4150 steel, and I have Bravo company and a Aero Precision gas blocks. They are made of steel also, and all work the same as the other. But when you get into adjustable or
titanium then there's a big difference . IMO
Paul Hughes What difference does titanium make?
If someone wants to change out their AR15 barrel with a longer barrel, does this usually require a different length gas tube? Or do most replacement barrels have the gas hole drilled in the same distance away from the chamber? Also would love to know what parts are different on a floated barrel system which I understand can lend itself to greater accuracy. Thanks for your video.
🇺🇸 😁👍
The gas tube may be a different size in length depending on the barrel length. It could be either a rifle length, mid-length, or carbine length usually. The barrel manufacturer usually will specify which size gas tube is needed.
As for the free-floated barrel, using a low profile gas block such one of the ones shown in this video will work with no problem. The inside diameter of your chosen rail may dictate what size gas block you can use. Check with the manufacturer to see what size gas block will fit. Buy either a steel or titanium gas block. Aluminum is not a good choice for this application.
Typically I have not had a problem with using a low profile gas block with most of my builds. I did have one instance of a screw for my flashlight mount touching the gas block once though. I simply moved the mount. Hope this helps you.
@@StevenScalia Thank you for your information, I will look into all of this in the future. It’s very nice to know there are so many options for these Modern Sporting Rifles. 🇺🇸😎👍
Hey Kotanboy32. Ever tried using the YHM 9384 "clamp on" low profile gas block. I'm just curious as to the clearance required to get the new rail over the replacement gas block...
Nice. YHM are nice. The only problem I've ever had was the block was made not to shoulder. Needed the spacer. I've had various issues but Gas was never one of them. As u know its usually something stupid that occurred in assembly. Boy it's been awhile. I might have forgotten how the go together. Lmao.
After building four ARs and buying several more, I have no idea what brand of GBs I own and haven't ever had a problem. However; I'm not one to fire rapid groups or even lots and lots of rounds.
Kota-- Thanks for your efforts.-- I hope you or someone else will comment on my thought process regarding adjustable gas blocks.
Before I get into it I will relay a comment made by a local gun smith who specializes in AR platforms. Basically he said that adjustable gas blocks do not hold up well. And as a result he will not use them.
That being said here is my idea.
Because my primary enjoyment comes from target shooting and load development, I thought I would install a adjustable gas block so that I am able to bypass the gas cycling completely in my AR. The thought is to minimize the incidental movement that might effect accuracy imparted by the bolt's travel.
Sure, at this point the rifle becomes a single shot and I'm fine with that. Now I have to admit I don't know if the projectile has left the barrel before the bolt unlocks so the following may be academic.
Over the years I have spent a fair amount of time studying barrel harmonics and have tuned many a load for a given bullet in a specific firearm, all in the quest to squeeze the best groups out of various rifles. I have done this in everything from BPCR rifles with custom designed & molded cast lead to factory stock actions and barrels with a fair amount of success. In each case, in order to reduce the human influences that contribute to flyers, I set up a rail system of sorts so the rifle can't do anything other then travel straight back upon firing.
What I want to do is develop a subsonic, accurate load for both my 5.56 and a 300 Black out with lighter projectiles.
I do have a Savage 110FP in 223 that will shoot in the 3's with regularity so that is my goal for the AR's, "If Possible"
What I don't know AND hope someone who does, will tell me,
Does the recoil impulse from the energy generated from firing of the bullet enough to unlock the bolt or is the energy from the gas required to do so....?
Hence my desire to have a adjustable gas block whereby I can completely block the gas...............
Thanks in advance for your comments....
RJ
must have gas, the superlative adjustable gas block bleeds the excess gas out the front, and will last
Also look into adjustable BCG's
@@kotaboy32 Thanks..! I didn't know there was such a thing..
Are LuthAR gas blocks good?
I’ve been hearing good stuff about YHM. I’m making a build this month But I don’t know anything about there barrels. I read that they are not CHF Ed . I’ve been a Daniel defense buyer for a long time but they are just very expensive these days. Id like to hear your opinion on YHM ,s barrels and the difference .. im really excited to try their products. Thanks for this post. Take it easy bud. Mike.
Where is ur muzzle break video I cannot seem to find it sir?
Very Cool gas blocks Kotaboy32 an thanks for the knowledge Sir
Honor and Respect... Magnetic trays are great, I work on Million dollar Diesel Engines, Cant have Loose Fasteners.
Kotaboy, would you mind explaining what you do for the “accurization” process? Or do you already have a video on the topic?
Once I get some more experience with it, I'll do a video on it
@@kotaboy32 Now your talking.
@kotaboy32 Tactical Yes please!!
Kotaboy32 Tactical This is another thing I, myself, probably ought to learn.
Would you recommend an adjustable on a "battle rifle" or are they more for competition builds?
Could you do a review on gas piston kits like superlative arms or Adam arms
I'm looking for a low profile gas block for 24" bull barrel any tips for me
I put that Odin Works one on a 11.5 psa upper and I only have it 3 clicks open and it runs great... That’s really not much though. What are your thoughts about it only being open that little. Bcm h3 buffer with Sprinco blue spring also.
Hey buddy did you ever figure it out? Have a 10.5" Aero 7.62x39 build and I put my Odin adj gas block on it and and it runs really well with only 3 turns out as well. So I pin guaged the gas port and it turned out it was grossly oversized for a carbine length gas system. Man id have done what most do and stick a carbine weight buffer in there with a regular wide open gas block I would have beaten my gun to death in short order. Probably would have sheared a lugs off the bolt. 7.62x39 AR doesn't have a strong bolt wall diameter to begin with. Just received my Suppresor, so the fun of tuning the gas on this gun will happen again. Like to hear if you figured yours out.
Which gas block do you recommend for dpms oracle
What set of bits is that? I need one.
Aero gas blocks were $8.99 for 4th of July special. There's plenty of deals out there for budget minded folks. My theory is buy cheap and pimp it out as you go.
Thank you, you were very informative 🤝
Anyone have a recommend gasblock with an ATLAS S Rail from aeroprecision. Heard OdinWords adjustable waas having some issues fitting.
I'm really enjoying watching all of your "cheap vs expensive" videos. Very inspiring to make my own!
Is there specific torque settings to use when installing a gas block on the barrel?
I believe it’s 30in/lbs
Do you dimple the barrels where the gas block ste screws align?
no
Kotaboy32 Tactical do you ever find that they back off or become mis aligned ? I thought it was necessary so i bought a jig to dimple the barrel on my build.
Great series! Don't know if you came up with a name for the budget rig (haven't watched the rest of the series yet), but I think "The Dude" would be a cool name. Jeff Bridges agrees with me!
Hey I no this is kinda old video but just wondering for your set screw blocks what torque do you use for the set screws? I can’t find an answer anywhere from superlative or BA lol
I saw in another video from Apache Rifleworks that they use 30 inch lbs for torque
Thanks I appreciate the info.
I bought a Ruger AR556 Friday, shot it the first time today and 50rnds in the gas block came loose. If the gun shop I purchased it as won't fix it should I just put a better gas block on it or what can I do to ensure the original doesn't come loose again?
Get some Allen wrenches and tighten her up
Have been watching you for a few years and came back to this video because I was wondering if you could tell me what bit set that is you are useing? Thank you
question, I have a Daniel Defense DD5 V5 6.5 Creedmoor with a stock flashhider compensator etc called a "superior suppression device". too much hop off target so I swapped it with an American precision arms muzzle break and all of a sudden the gun won't cycle the next round. The gas block comes adjustable with an Allen wrench for "unsuppressed" or "suppressed" however I can't get it to move either way it is def not working but aside from that do muzzle breaks cause less gas to hit where it needs to? adjusting from unsuppressed to suppressed seems that will only cut even more gas furthering the guns inability to cycle. anyone have issues with this? or know how to fix it?
Have you ever used a gas block dimpling jig
nope, never had a need to
i'm on my fourth 3gun build and the last is a Superlative clamp-on. The previous three set-screw gas block builds were not dimpled and had no problems with about 15k rounds through them.
SLR Rifle Works makes a great dimpleing jig if you ever need or want to dimple the barrel. Also, they have a good selection of standard and adjustable gas blocks. Thanks for the vids.
What did you say had to set up overnight at the very beginning of this video?
@ronbo36316 Veteran That's the only thing I could think of as well. Thanks!
I wish these videos were more specific, call outs, that is dimensioning, isn't clear. "This hex wrench" that "hole" it's unlikely your audience are engineers' but context really defines the subject especially highly technical content. Thanks for that.