I swapped my over to the hobbywing fusion pro 2300kv and it was the best upgrade I’ve done so far . With all the brass and cut xl boggers it is a phenomenal crawler for what I have in it . The fusion pro is so quiet and has insane power at very very slow speeds.
Bought one a couple years ago, finally finished it this week with everything you did. Havent weighed it but I also did the heavy brass outer portal housings in the rear and the brass diff covers. Picked up all of the aluminum shock towers and braces as well. Its running a droop setup on desert lizard shocks with the hobbywing fusion SE motor, thing is an absolute beast.... also did a body swap to a ford raptor that was meant for a trx4. That made a world of difference on the top heavy aspect of this truck. There was 1 boulder in my front yard that i could get 75% of the way up with the scout body and it would always end up on its top. When I did the body swap it crawled right up over it and the suspension didnt even try to unload.
I got my Gen 8 V2 on that great sale as well. I upgraded to a Fusion Pro 2300Kv motor, brass weights and Pitbull Crawler tires. It climbs much better than I could've hoped for and as long as I pay attention, I can keep from rolling over. Well done, enjoy the future climbing adventures.
I have the Redcat aluminum axle housings, that 3 piece design sucks so bad. I had to JB weld them together to keep them from wobbling apart. Now the JB weld has failed I need to braze them together. I scrapped the Redcat axles for now and went with some straight axle AR44s.
Great video! I have a set of those aluminum axle housings and have a tip (on my V1 I have another V1 custom comp build, an AXE, and V2 also). They rarely stay solidly put together. I found that using DAP RapidFuse all purpose glue ($5-6ish at hardware stores) on the joint areas clamped together then letting sit for an hour before putting the set screws in fill gaps and makes the axles not loosen up, jiggle and shake during driving. Unlike other CA based glues the DAP stays ever so slightly flexible and doesn't seem to crack. all of my next aluminum housings are going to be the one piece Treal design, but this seems to fix the issue for what we already own. Also, remember your truck has to really work to pull all that weigh up inclines and it is going to pull your truck down on decents. I personally have found some weight up front and maybe the outer brass portal boxes on the rear to work well without too much of a loss of general performance. I would recommend removing the stick on weights. And again from personal experience the weight in the wheels can shred the top gear in the portals. If you really like it then I recommend the Hardened steel front axle shafts with the hardened steel top portal gears (the V2 comes with the redesigned heavy duty one ($25) but they will give out too with too much weight). They are a bit pricey at $42ish but needed with wheel weights as the front of the truck will at times have lots of wheels speed that can get slammed to a stop with all the weight of the truck slamming into them and the top gear shatters.. I went through 3 until buying the hardened steel ones and have not had an issue since. I like the mini indoor test course!
Me gustaria poner mi gen 8 tal cual, podreis mandarme los links de todos los componentes...gracias...les escribo desde Republica Dominicana ...excelente modificacion.
Buy once cry once rc parts has the axle servo mount if it's still in stock, 4 link is a little tricky but mine is perfectly inline with the other one if you do it right!🤪💯
At the time it was a 100mm shock that was solid (locked un-compressed) that I used as a control. Letter on I use a 100mm link, but inevitably I do go back to 3-link. Check out the more recent videos of my gen8
Pros and cons to both. Bottom arm reduces off axis load with a more linear movement, top arm reduces chances of the servo arm getting bashed into rocks. If you look at 16:16 there would be a clearance issue with the tie rod if the arm was oriented downward, so it looks like the kit was designed to work with the arm up.
Yea I did a high-steer conversion, so there was a clearance issue. It has been revised now, check out the new Gen8 video I uploaded. Changed the setup entirely.
So instead of offering a budding rock crawler enthusiast advice on how to better spend his money on upgrades, you choose to degrade his efforts in a one word retort. This is what pushes people away from our hobby.
I'm just now seeing this comment. I appreciate that sir. When i made this video, i knew half as much as i do now, and i'll keep learning with every build. I'm an avid enthusiast and i do alot of research, and i do my best to my current skill level. In the past year the crawling content has gotten much more..... advanced.... than some of the videos from this time period for the gen8. Im currently uploading my first overview and crawl of the gen9. check it out!
I swapped my over to the hobbywing fusion pro 2300kv and it was the best upgrade I’ve done so far . With all the brass and cut xl boggers it is a phenomenal crawler for what I have in it . The fusion pro is so quiet and has insane power at very very slow speeds.
Bought one a couple years ago, finally finished it this week with everything you did. Havent weighed it but I also did the heavy brass outer portal housings in the rear and the brass diff covers. Picked up all of the aluminum shock towers and braces as well. Its running a droop setup on desert lizard shocks with the hobbywing fusion SE motor, thing is an absolute beast.... also did a body swap to a ford raptor that was meant for a trx4. That made a world of difference on the top heavy aspect of this truck. There was 1 boulder in my front yard that i could get 75% of the way up with the scout body and it would always end up on its top. When I did the body swap it crawled right up over it and the suspension didnt even try to unload.
Thats awesome man! have you considered the gen9 yet? my first drive is currently uploading
I got my Gen 8 V2 on that great sale as well. I upgraded to a Fusion Pro 2300Kv motor, brass weights and Pitbull Crawler tires. It climbs much better than I could've hoped for and as long as I pay attention, I can keep from rolling over. Well done, enjoy the future climbing adventures.
I put the Fusion Pro in my Gen8 as well. It completely changed the rig for the better.
I have the Redcat aluminum axle housings, that 3 piece design sucks so bad. I had to JB weld them together to keep them from wobbling apart. Now the JB weld has failed I need to braze them together.
I scrapped the Redcat axles for now and went with some straight axle AR44s.
Thank you for the Video I am doing a very similar build and you just answered all my questions Thank you again welcome to the hobby
Great video! I have a set of those aluminum axle housings and have a tip (on my V1 I have another V1 custom comp build, an AXE, and V2 also). They rarely stay solidly put together. I found that using DAP RapidFuse all purpose glue ($5-6ish at hardware stores) on the joint areas clamped together then letting sit for an hour before putting the set screws in fill gaps and makes the axles not loosen up, jiggle and shake during driving. Unlike other CA based glues the DAP stays ever so slightly flexible and doesn't seem to crack. all of my next aluminum housings are going to be the one piece Treal design, but this seems to fix the issue for what we already own. Also, remember your truck has to really work to pull all that weigh up inclines and it is going to pull your truck down on decents. I personally have found some weight up front and maybe the outer brass portal boxes on the rear to work well without too much of a loss of general performance. I would recommend removing the stick on weights. And again from personal experience the weight in the wheels can shred the top gear in the portals. If you really like it then I recommend the Hardened steel front axle shafts with the hardened steel top portal gears (the V2 comes with the redesigned heavy duty one ($25) but they will give out too with too much weight). They are a bit pricey at $42ish but needed with wheel weights as the front of the truck will at times have lots of wheels speed that can get slammed to a stop with all the weight of the truck slamming into them and the top gear shatters.. I went through 3 until buying the hardened steel ones and have not had an issue since. I like the mini indoor test course!
I just picked up a Gen 8. No time to run it yet, so I'm just binging on build videos. Cheers! I subbed.
Thanks for the sub! Have you seen much of the gen9 yet? im getting my first video uploaded now
@@J-Steele-RCnot yet, I'm away for work right now.... and coming home with three new rcs. Lol
Awesome video excellent job truck looks great I did a lot of brass to my trx4 kit was right at 9 lbs definitely has its pros and cons
Cool man 💪👌
Noise is due to the MOD .8 gears..
the rod coming from the servo u could've position it a little better
Can you post parts list for the conversion that would be awesome.
would love a parts and tools list as well im new just now getting into the hobby
Parts are all from Amazon/Ebay, except for the 4-link kit from BOCO rc. Just search for "gen8 v2 brass" and piece together an axle in the cart
Me gustaria poner mi gen 8 tal cual, podreis mandarme los links de todos los componentes...gracias...les escribo desde Republica Dominicana ...excelente modificacion.
Where did you get the axle kit? What brand is it?
Hi great work would love to know what is needed for the four link conversion and are there any steering issues under front suspension compression?
Cool build though
I'd really like to know where you got the axle Servo bracket mount from?
Buy once cry once rc parts has the axle servo mount if it's still in stock, 4 link is a little tricky but mine is perfectly inline with the other one if you do it right!🤪💯
what servo mount did you use?
Where did you get the servo relocation kit from
BOCO rc
На модели два амортизатора одновременно НИКОГДА не сжимаются!
Is that a scx10 front bumper at the end?
Where did you get the soa mount from. Definitely would like to do this on my gen 8
the SOA mount is from BOCO rc
What did you use for the 4th bar on the front?
It looks like a shock absorber that he mounted to the frame using spacers
At the time it was a 100mm shock that was solid (locked un-compressed) that I used as a control.
Letter on I use a 100mm link, but inevitably I do go back to 3-link. Check out the more recent videos of my gen8
Wow! Thats a nice rig bro, i like it... sub & like ;-)
Not a drop of thread lock ?
Dude you got your servo horn on upside down
Pros and cons to both. Bottom arm reduces off axis load with a more linear movement, top arm reduces chances of the servo arm getting bashed into rocks. If you look at 16:16 there would be a clearance issue with the tie rod if the arm was oriented downward, so it looks like the kit was designed to work with the arm up.
Yea I did a high-steer conversion, so there was a clearance issue. It has been revised now, check out the new Gen8 video I uploaded. Changed the setup entirely.
Link to the links please?
Hola
Waste
So instead of offering a budding rock crawler enthusiast advice on how to better spend his money on upgrades, you choose to degrade his efforts in a one word retort. This is what pushes people away from our hobby.
I'm just now seeing this comment. I appreciate that sir. When i made this video, i knew half as much as i do now, and i'll keep learning with every build. I'm an avid enthusiast and i do alot of research, and i do my best to my current skill level. In the past year the crawling content has gotten much more..... advanced.... than some of the videos from this time period for the gen8. Im currently uploading my first overview and crawl of the gen9. check it out!