This was a great video. I was faced with this problem. The shop where I was going to use a lift hosed out on me. In his video the car was on jack stands so I followed this video and performed the job. I recommend putting the oil pan gasket on the oil pan and using 2 zip ties to hold it in place as you install the oil pan. It works much better.
Have a M3 w/226,000 mile, borescope, compression, still good ... did WPC rod bearings, APR and did full vanos rebuild and Besian pump disc amazing motor to work on, also don't forget CPV O-Ring and if you ever dip into the Vanos healihex cut gear sweet spot, made a noticeable difference in mid to higher RPM.
Great video, quite inspirational. A couple suggestions for those looking to tackle this job- lubing the rod caps is not necessary. Lube the shells only. And if you pull the fuel pump fuse, you can crank the engine until you have oil pressure instead of running it. Looking forward to the V10 build! Keep up the good work.
@@averyc7492 You're not serious... putting lube on the cap side is definitely not what you want to do and it will help the bearings spin. Look at a reputable engine builder. They always brake clean the caps and rods before they install the bearings because they absolutely have to be completely dry when installing.
@@Birdhouseboi810 Yea its definitely not necessary. What I'm saying is I legit pulled bearing shells last night its not like the cap/rod side of the bearing is void of oil lol. Oil is everywhere in every nook and cranny of the crankcase.
Perfect job mate, very clean and professional. I really enjoyed watching, thanks a lot. First of all I'd like to mention very important thing for me, all your comments about the job processes during the video were right at its place and 100% accurate. Apart of all it's just a pleasure to listen, only useful information, no stupid jokes and flat sense of humor. Thanks again bro! As an owner of M3 E46 for last 6 years I have a very long list of stupid and illiterate mechanics, after all troubles they caused yo me and my car I became something like a half pro and by saying all this all I want to tell you is that I would like to have such a specialist to give him a car without any doubts.
Wish this video was around when I changed the bearings on my old M3. But definitely happy this video is out to replace the bearings on my new M3 Also my old M3 had scratches on bearings. I did plastigauge measurements. All went smooth
Haha thank you! I'm glad it can help people in the future, that's all. Yeah I've seen that before and everyone who's dealt with those "scratches" all said as long as you cant feel it, you're in the clear.
@@leoescobar7141 They are easier haha. And from what I know, you can reuse them several time, just gotta double check with a stretch gauge. But for the OE bolts, you screw up once, you gotta get another bolt
@@YEVSBUILDS I’ve definitely gone through a good amount of bolts myself learning in the process lol. Awesome video btw. Can’t wait till you get her up and running the streets soon🤞
@@leoescobar7141 Yeah man me too. But, I'm starting my diff rebuild this week since parts came in way earlier than I expected, so hopefully by next week she'll be up and running for good!
nice videos ... but you need to check the oil pumps on the S54 engines ! the control piston inside the pump like to fail (get hanged up) and you will have no oil pressure ... common problems back in the old days ;)
@@YEVSBUILDS mhhh how many kilometers (miles) you got ? its common problem so if the pump is failing your engine is gone :P made 1000 of these cars back in the days (working for Bmw M Engines)
Oh wow, so if you don't have a stretch gauge you can just torque ARP bolts to 50? I did not know that! That will save me a couple hundred for the ARP gauge tool! Did you skip the plastigauge step or is that not necessary to check clearances? I'm inspired to tackle this!
With everyone I know who are doing the best they can with the tools they have, no one used the stretch gauge. Is it more sketchy? Yes, but if you use plasti gauge to just be extra careful, you'll be fine. As long as you're within spec.
Oh yeah she's my daily driver. She's been real good ever since the job was done. Of-course I'd have to pull the oil pan off to know for sure but no issues thus far
this might be a dumb question but I'm going to give it a try if it only M3 version are getting broadbearing problems or all E46 issues with excise and so on that are not m3s or can you explain a little bit better
Oh and you didn’t remove the spark plugs and coils I seen some other vids and forums where they did. I’m just asking because I’m just trying to game myself up before I do my rods and learn as much as possible. So by asking people with experience I can get some tips and tricks which can help me from doing something extra👍
So my car is 2004 m3 so as i know and understand here i need m10 bolts Which i couldnt get nowhere its out of stock so could u please link me or tell me website where could i get it? Thanks.
Nice vid man, I’m just about to do rod bearings in a few days. I got the acl race bearings and was trying to figure out which goes on top or bottom since they aren’t marked. I called support they said it doesn’t matter so since you had some what did you do?
No it doesn't matter. This isn't the first set of these ACL bearings I've swapped. I've talked to a bunch of other folk including reputable shops who also say with these there's no difference.
Thanks man, one more question do you have to reprogram car after rod replace or nah. I’ve read some forums and want to know if it’s necessary thank you
I have a question! It's a 2006 model. The manual says to loosen and tighten the rod bolt 3 times.. Is it okay to tighten it only once? I bought an ARP M10 bolt.
I mean, the higher the better in my opinion: that way you can have enough room to lay under and will have enough room to remove the subframe. I had my M3 probably a little over 2ft off the ground
I mean the only real way to find out is for me to pull the pan off again and check. So far, I've only done 1 oil change and there were no signs of wear at all, so thats good news
Please delete this video. You are giving horrible advice to people who may not be able to afford taking it to a shop so they will try to tackle it themselves. 1. Lubing the rod cap will help the bearing spin therefore ruining the rod and crank. The rod cap needs to be perfectly dry. 2. If you use ARP rod bolts instead of OEM bolts you will end up make the bearing oval. The rods should be machined when using ARP bolts. I’m not trying to be a dick. I would hate you see more people ruin their engines due to bad information.
I didn't take any offense bro, I appreciate the feedback. You're right, lubing the outer part of the bearings is definitely not the best idea, I admit that. But in theory, it's all going to get oiled up anyway over time. And as far as ARP, again also not trying to be a dick back, but you're one of only a few people who say ARP aren't good for this. Every respectable engine builder I follow personally, uses ARP and never had issues with them. I guess it's all preference at this point but never the less, I appreciate you brotha.
@@YEVSBUILDS The oil does not get fed to the backside of the bearing ever. Yes I've seen a lot of builders (RUclipsrs) use the ARP rod bolts. I'm not saying they're bad or not right. I'm saying that the bearing shell could become oval due to the tighter torque specs. It's wiser to use factory bolts unless you have the rods line honed for the tighter torque spec. But as far as oil on the backside of the bearing. That doesn't happen and would definitely recommend re-editing the video and removing that portion. Bad advice is going to cost people their engine if they plan on doing it themselves and don't have the proper knowledge. I'm not trying to be a dick, but there's already enough bad information out there.
Make sure to like/share/subscribe🤘🏻
This was a great video. I was faced with this problem. The shop where I was going to use a lift hosed out on me. In his video the car was on jack stands so I followed this video and performed the job. I recommend putting the oil pan gasket on the oil pan and using 2 zip ties to hold it in place as you install the oil pan. It works much better.
Have a M3 w/226,000 mile, borescope, compression, still good ... did WPC rod bearings, APR and did full vanos rebuild and Besian pump disc amazing motor to work on, also don't forget CPV O-Ring and if you ever dip into the Vanos healihex cut gear sweet spot, made a noticeable difference in mid to higher RPM.
Normally you dont put oil between shell en rod bearing, only between rod bearing and crank. (Bmw manual).
Great video, quite inspirational. A couple suggestions for those looking to tackle this job- lubing the rod caps is not necessary. Lube the shells only. And if you pull the fuel pump fuse, you can crank the engine until you have oil pressure instead of running it. Looking forward to the V10 build! Keep up the good work.
Also very true. Appreciate you!
Lubing the rod cap will literally help the bearing spin.
@@Birdhouseboi810 Considering rods are covered in oil all the time it probably makes no difference
@@averyc7492 You're not serious... putting lube on the cap side is definitely not what you want to do and it will help the bearings spin. Look at a reputable engine builder. They always brake clean the caps and rods before they install the bearings because they absolutely have to be completely dry when installing.
@@Birdhouseboi810 Yea its definitely not necessary. What I'm saying is I legit pulled bearing shells last night its not like the cap/rod side of the bearing is void of oil lol. Oil is everywhere in every nook and cranny of the crankcase.
Never lube the back of the new shell bearings. Only the face touching the crank should be lubed.
Also using arp stuff. You need to have the rods machined.
If doing it while the engine is in the car. Always use factory stuff.
Perfect job mate, very clean and professional. I really enjoyed watching, thanks a lot. First of all I'd like to mention very important thing for me, all your comments about the job processes during the video were right at its place and 100% accurate. Apart of all it's just a pleasure to listen, only useful information, no stupid jokes and flat sense of humor. Thanks again bro! As an owner of M3 E46 for last 6 years I have a very long list of stupid and illiterate mechanics, after all troubles they caused yo me and my car I became something like a half pro and by saying all this all I want to tell you is that I would like to have such a specialist to give him a car without any doubts.
Haha thank you brotha! Really appreciate it and glad you enjoyed this.
Amazing video and tutorial m8. Keep up the amazing work. Great quality, guidance and details
Happy it can help🤘🏻
Fantastic video as always. No non sense straight to the point whilst highlighting all the important bits
Appreciate you!
Great video! about to do this to my 2006 Competition!
Thanks just finished up my m3 today with the guidance from your video😁👍
Very happy my videos can help! Good luck!
Thanks for this. Will come in handy next spring when I tackle this project. ✌
Good luck man!
Wish this video was around when I changed the bearings on my old M3. But definitely happy this video is out to replace the bearings on my new M3
Also my old M3 had scratches on bearings. I did plastigauge measurements. All went smooth
Haha thank you! I'm glad it can help people in the future, that's all.
Yeah I've seen that before and everyone who's dealt with those "scratches" all said as long as you cant feel it, you're in the clear.
I will say I think I’ll try the ARP bolts this time. Seems way easier than the torque angle. Which isn’t all easy lol.
@@leoescobar7141 They are easier haha. And from what I know, you can reuse them several time, just gotta double check with a stretch gauge. But for the OE bolts, you screw up once, you gotta get another bolt
@@YEVSBUILDS I’ve definitely gone through a good amount of bolts myself learning in the process lol. Awesome video btw. Can’t wait till you get her up and running the streets soon🤞
@@leoescobar7141 Yeah man me too. But, I'm starting my diff rebuild this week since parts came in way earlier than I expected, so hopefully by next week she'll be up and running for good!
Quality video! surprised not see more subs... well done very informative and thorough video gave me all the confidence to do this job.
Glad it can help bruh!
Very detailed guide there mate, top work.
Happy to help anyone bro! Thank you
Great video
excited!
Excellent vid
Any particular reason why OEM bolts aren’t used considering they’re a fraction of the cost of ARP bolts
arp bolts are stronger than oem
nice videos ...
but you need to check the oil pumps on the S54 engines ! the control piston inside the pump like to fail (get hanged up) and you will have no oil pressure ...
common problems back in the old days ;)
Yeah, I found that out after doing the job haha I guess we wait😂
@@YEVSBUILDS mhhh how many kilometers (miles) you got ? its common problem so if the pump is failing your engine is gone :P
made 1000 of these cars back in the days (working for Bmw M Engines)
@@Duschanio1 I'm at about 140,000 miles
@@Duschanio1is this a problem at lower mileage? I’m looking at a car with 56k miles.
great job. keep on dude
Appreciate you brotha!
Can I change the main bearing while I’m there too
Oh wow, so if you don't have a stretch gauge you can just torque ARP bolts to 50? I did not know that! That will save me a couple hundred for the ARP gauge tool! Did you skip the plastigauge step or is that not necessary to check clearances? I'm inspired to tackle this!
With everyone I know who are doing the best they can with the tools they have, no one used the stretch gauge. Is it more sketchy? Yes, but if you use plasti gauge to just be extra careful, you'll be fine. As long as you're within spec.
Video is really helpful, thank you! I don't suppose you have a list of OEM parts / gaskets you used?
Glad it helped.
I mean I tried mentioning all the part numbers for all the gaskets I used in the video. That's all I got.
So far, how’s your experience been using arp rod bolts for all this time?
Do you drive the car a lot since then?
Oh yeah she's my daily driver. She's been real good ever since the job was done. Of-course I'd have to pull the oil pan off to know for sure but no issues thus far
Hi I have 2002 m3 convertible someone charged the bearing and I smacking a knocking noice can you send me the par number I need thanks great video
Good shout using hack!! Bought a few bits myself from him, im over in the uk too, have a 500hp charged e46 m3. 🤟🤟🤟🤟🤟🤟
Daam Scott! Thats a gnarly one. Yeah, Hack are great!
this might be a dumb question but I'm going to give it a try if it only M3 version are getting broadbearing problems or all E46 issues with excise and so on that are not m3s or can you explain a little bit better
You Rock mate!!! Nice!!!!! Keep going!!!
Haha thank you brotha!
Oh and you didn’t remove the spark plugs and coils I seen some other vids and forums where they did. I’m just asking because I’m just trying to game myself up before I do my rods and learn as much as possible. So by asking people with experience I can get some tips and tricks which can help me from doing something extra👍
No you dont have to remove spark plugs or coil packs at all.
Was Red Line test? 3 mouth
Yesss v10 m3
So my car is 2004 m3 so as i know and understand here i need m10 bolts
Which i couldnt get nowhere its out of stock so could u please link me or tell me website where could i get it?
Thanks.
Nice vid man, I’m just about to do rod bearings in a few days. I got the acl race bearings and was trying to figure out which goes on top or bottom since they aren’t marked. I called support they said it doesn’t matter so since you had some what did you do?
No it doesn't matter. This isn't the first set of these ACL bearings I've swapped. I've talked to a bunch of other folk including reputable shops who also say with these there's no difference.
Thanks man, one more question do you have to reprogram car after rod replace or nah. I’ve read some forums and want to know if it’s necessary thank you
What forums have you read? haha no you don't reprogram anything after this job.
I have a question! It's a 2006 model. The manual says to loosen and tighten the rod bolt 3 times.. Is it okay to tighten it only once? I bought an ARP M10 bolt.
That's if you're going with factory bolts. With APR, you tighten them once and you're good.
I am planning to do this job too. How high does the jack stands need to be to remove the subframe? Because of space.
I mean, the higher the better in my opinion: that way you can have enough room to lay under and will have enough room to remove the subframe. I had my M3 probably a little over 2ft off the ground
How are the acl bearings I have a 03 which can kind I gotta get please help and info on the acl bearings
I mean the only real way to find out is for me to pull the pan off again and check. So far, I've only done 1 oil change and there were no signs of wear at all, so thats good news
And did you remove the dipstick or was it unnecessary?
I only undid it from the oil pan, not from the top where it holds on to the intake manifold
And what was the measure with the new engine mounts?
Jeez, that’s what I forgot to add🤦🏼♂️ it was a whole 6mm difference!
@@YEVSBUILDS nice! Keep up the good work 👍
@@andreaslage3720 appreciate you🤘🏻
How much miles is on it?
Now 113k
Some body let me know
I thought you were not supposed to lube the caps… only the shell side of the bearings meeting the crankshaft journal
I don't know the part number but I bought standard, non oversized.
mid engine v10.... do it
Mid engine? Hahah that's crazy. I'm just doing the regular setup - front engine as in
Rod bearings dont have to be broken in. If done right they should be on a layer of oil the whole time the engine is running.
Of-course but just to be extra safe, it wont hurt to baby the engine for a bit.
Sub for thet v10 m3 make it sequential gearbox end streight pipe to be like f1 car
I've got some crazy ideas for this build, you just wait! haha
@@YEVSBUILDS I can't wait for you to put that car together
Please delete this video. You are giving horrible advice to people who may not be able to afford taking it to a shop so they will try to tackle it themselves.
1. Lubing the rod cap will help the bearing spin therefore ruining the rod and crank. The rod cap needs to be perfectly dry.
2. If you use ARP rod bolts instead of OEM bolts you will end up make the bearing oval. The rods should be machined when using ARP bolts.
I’m not trying to be a dick. I would hate you see more people ruin their engines due to bad information.
I didn't take any offense bro, I appreciate the feedback. You're right, lubing the outer part of the bearings is definitely not the best idea, I admit that. But in theory, it's all going to get oiled up anyway over time. And as far as ARP, again also not trying to be a dick back, but you're one of only a few people who say ARP aren't good for this. Every respectable engine builder I follow personally, uses ARP and never had issues with them. I guess it's all preference at this point but never the less, I appreciate you brotha.
@@YEVSBUILDS The oil does not get fed to the backside of the bearing ever. Yes I've seen a lot of builders (RUclipsrs) use the ARP rod bolts. I'm not saying they're bad or not right. I'm saying that the bearing shell could become oval due to the tighter torque specs. It's wiser to use factory bolts unless you have the rods line honed for the tighter torque spec. But as far as oil on the backside of the bearing. That doesn't happen and would definitely recommend re-editing the video and removing that portion. Bad advice is going to cost people their engine if they plan on doing it themselves and don't have the proper knowledge.
I'm not trying to be a dick, but there's already enough bad information out there.