Definitely sounded like rod knock. It's a shame really, the stock dip stick is utter trash and many were fooled into thinking it had decent oil levels back in the day. Also the fake oil pressure gauge didn't help matters, either. It needs oil at max level at all times, otherwise this happens.
IMHO: Check the MOT history before putting anything more into this car - it's had welding (or thick underseal!) on both sills - get the rear arch liners out of the way to have a proper look at what's there. Plenty of NCs around - often cheaper than NBs. Good luck, though, whatever you do.
Two breeze bocks and axle stands on either side gets it high enough … an engine hoist will get it there . One tip build a trolley to slide engine forward .
I've seen some horror jenga-esque towers built to get these engines out. I think in the circumstances I've got currently, outside on a knobbly surface I'd rather pass xD If I had a garage and a lift this would definitely be something I'd attempt.
The oil pressure gauge on these is not a real oil pressure gauge. It just displays what the pressure should be at those revs / temperature / etc. A 1.8 engine shouldn't cost a massive amount. You can probably borrow an engine hoist
I know the gauge is a guide but should it be at 2 thirds just at idle? Engines seem to be between 500-800gbp, I can buy a hoist for less then 200; the main problem is the storage space and the surface I have to work on. I doubt I'd be able to get the car high enough to get it from the bottom :(
@@itscarbeard , not so much a guide, just a piece of decoration. The value is irrelavant to the condition of the engine. If you can borrow an engine hoist then storage space is limited to only needing it when doing the swap.
I'm a new subscriber to your channel. I am so gutted for you. The nc is renowned for engine issues, often originating from lack of maintenance, especially oil level. Knocking bottom end is quite common, I believe. (My limited knowledge is more na/b) A suggestion, though. I appreciate your limited facilities are holding you back, but I'm not aware of anyone on RUclips showing a Rocketeer conversion on an nc, although kits are made. That would be fantastic content, if the body is sound enough. Realisticly, perhaps you should get it as clean and tidy as possible, and sell it honestly with the engine issue, as you said. Nice of you to show the rough with the smooth, warts and all. Best wishes.
I'd love to do something so involved, especially considering the frame, viewing what I can at least, is pretty solid. I just don't have the money for facilities though :(
@itscarbeard Continue to be honest with your subscribers and provide interesting content, and your channel will grow. I have followed Matt Armstrong for years, he started by working outside, just as you are now. Enough followers will pay for a small unit/ramp. Maybe this car will make a loss, but it will make you wiser and stronger. All the best.
As already said , the oil pressure gauge is pure fiction! It initiates when the oil pressure switch operates ( 4 psi or so), then all the " readings" are what the ecu thinks is what they should be , and are purely electronic fiction with no baring on the actual oil pressure at all. The 1.8 always used to use a little oil , and young in experienced owners would assume that the ( useless ) pressure gauge was actually a level gauge and rag the car until the oil level was far to low thus wrecking the bottom end . The 2 litre nc for some reason never seemed to suffer to the same extent . Good luck with removing the engine from above , I have only ever seen it done from below using a four poster , but you never know!
I would say that the seatbelts are possibly trash now. Immersing them in liquid may have destroyed the SRS igniters. As for the engine, the NC1 all have some engine trouble that points to spun bearings. This was solved with NC2 revisions. You could grab nearly any L series ford engine and toss it in there. Even if it doesn’t have the VVT, just pull the head off the current engine and use the good block.
The belt assemblies were kept out and dry, it was only the belt webbing that was submerged. I kept them extended with a cable tie and have yet to retract them.
You could hear it knocking at about 12:00. It’s been run low on oil, probably because of gummed up piston rings.
Yeah when doing an edit on the sound it brought that forward it seems. The boomy backbox in real life made it very hard to hear when it started.
Definitely sounded like rod knock. It's a shame really, the stock dip stick is utter trash and many were fooled into thinking it had decent oil levels back in the day. Also the fake oil pressure gauge didn't help matters, either. It needs oil at max level at all times, otherwise this happens.
IMHO: Check the MOT history before putting anything more into this car - it's had welding (or thick underseal!) on both sills - get the rear arch liners out of the way to have a proper look at what's there. Plenty of NCs around - often cheaper than NBs. Good luck, though, whatever you do.
Two breeze bocks and axle stands on either side gets it high enough … an engine hoist will get it there . One tip build a trolley to slide engine forward .
I've seen some horror jenga-esque towers built to get these engines out. I think in the circumstances I've got currently, outside on a knobbly surface I'd rather pass xD If I had a garage and a lift this would definitely be something I'd attempt.
The oil pressure gauge on these is not a real oil pressure gauge. It just displays what the pressure should be at those revs / temperature / etc.
A 1.8 engine shouldn't cost a massive amount. You can probably borrow an engine hoist
I know the gauge is a guide but should it be at 2 thirds just at idle? Engines seem to be between 500-800gbp, I can buy a hoist for less then 200; the main problem is the storage space and the surface I have to work on. I doubt I'd be able to get the car high enough to get it from the bottom :(
@@itscarbeard , not so much a guide, just a piece of decoration. The value is irrelavant to the condition of the engine.
If you can borrow an engine hoist then storage space is limited to only needing it when doing the swap.
I'm a new subscriber to your channel.
I am so gutted for you. The nc is renowned for engine issues, often originating from lack of maintenance, especially oil level.
Knocking bottom end is quite common, I believe. (My limited knowledge is more na/b)
A suggestion, though.
I appreciate your limited facilities are holding you back, but I'm not aware of anyone on RUclips showing a Rocketeer conversion on an nc, although kits are made.
That would be fantastic content, if the body is sound enough.
Realisticly, perhaps you should get it as clean and tidy as possible, and sell it honestly with the engine issue, as you said.
Nice of you to show the rough with the smooth, warts and all.
Best wishes.
I'd love to do something so involved, especially considering the frame, viewing what I can at least, is pretty solid. I just don't have the money for facilities though :(
@itscarbeard Continue to be honest with your subscribers and provide interesting content, and your channel will grow.
I have followed Matt Armstrong for years, he started by working outside, just as you are now.
Enough followers will pay for a small unit/ramp.
Maybe this car will make a loss, but it will make you wiser and stronger.
All the best.
As already said , the oil pressure gauge is pure fiction! It initiates when the oil pressure switch operates ( 4 psi or so), then all the " readings" are what the ecu thinks is what they should be , and are purely electronic fiction with no baring on the actual oil pressure at all.
The 1.8 always used to use a little oil , and young in experienced owners would assume that the ( useless ) pressure gauge was actually a level gauge and rag the car until the oil level was far to low thus wrecking the bottom end . The 2 litre nc for some reason never seemed to suffer to the same extent .
Good luck with removing the engine from above , I have only ever seen it done from below using a four poster , but you never know!
100% iv got the 2.0 nc n im at 143k n runs sweat as a nut
I feel for ya !
I would say that the seatbelts are possibly trash now. Immersing them in liquid may have destroyed the SRS igniters.
As for the engine, the NC1 all have some engine trouble that points to spun bearings. This was solved with NC2 revisions. You could grab nearly any L series ford engine and toss it in there. Even if it doesn’t have the VVT, just pull the head off the current engine and use the good block.
The belt assemblies were kept out and dry, it was only the belt webbing that was submerged. I kept them extended with a cable tie and have yet to retract them.
the curse of the Copart Cat U, more hassle than they are worth tbh.
Yep, thought I'd get lucky, not had much luck recently >.
NC1 known to spin bearings before 100k
How common would you say that is? 1%? 10%? well... for the 4 NC1's I've no interacted with/owned it's 25% xD
@@itscarbeard No idea, my sample size is 1 😂 Chucked an NC2 engine in it 🤞
could always 2.5 swap if push comes to shove, ford fusions are everywhere in junkyards
Have a look underneath and see how rusty it is
The car's frame is pretty solid, some welding on the passenger side. The braces though are crusty as hell. Exhaust system seems fine.
PCV valve ?
k swap :D