Most dimmers here are either one or two button. The one button. Works by press for on, hold to dim and the dim will alternate between brightening and dimming on alternate presses. Two button have a dedicated up and down if held, but toggle the light on a press. The other type is the rotary knob with integrated on/off by pressing the dimmer knob. The SonOff remote is kind of like the Philips Hue ones that can be removed from the wall, but most people don't remove them
I’m based in the uk and really like the D1, reason is I’ve tried various other dimmers and always had trouble with flicker but not with Sonoff. Also I still keep a switch at the wall and just create a routine to switch on d1 when touched and keep the rf controller next to bed for convenience.
Just to update the comment that the remote/switch unit doesn’t allow dimming/brightening. It does - just hold the preset buttons (ones that show 1%, 40%, 60% and 100%. I’m finding these useful and small enough to install in the light fittings themselves, rather than the wall socket, as in the UK most houses don’t have a neutral wire at the switch; makes most smart dimmers useless, and sticking capacitors across the load to give residual current to power the switch, flakey at best. My biggest gripe with the D1 is still host switching; think I’ve finally traced it to the 590R receiver chip and its AGC. Nice review for US market :). Always good to see where things work well and where they don’t. Not all your review is applicable to me, but knowledge is power and all that; I’d rather be informed and able to interpret whats relevant, than uninformed and disabled.
I have the same issue, kept the switch on the wall but used the neutral coming from the rcbc panel in the ceiling, have huge issue though with it doing its own thing, mainly the brightness levels. If I use Google assistant it works perfect 5% brightness no flickering, but it brightens itself to 100% after 30-40mins and we're all blinded, no schedule set...
@@TheEcorristine Ah, ghost switching, the bane of everyone with a D1. There are two solutions, depending on whether you want to use the remote control or not. If you do, pair the remote, then un-pair it, then re-pair it again. To do the re-pairing, you have to power off, wait at least 30 seconds, then immediately after powering back on do the re-pair, then as soon as it beeps to signal the re-pair was successful, do nothing for several minutes. That tends to give a stable pairing, and thankfully no ghost switching. Mine last until I get some kinds or power cuts; if my ELCB trips, I have to do the whole thing again, but if I just pull the lighting fuse, or turn off at the switch, it stays OK. Go figure! If you don't want to use the remote, you can open it up and desolder about four resistors - I've not don't that myself, but there are reports of several folks doing it successfully.
I assume they though well it is a dimmer not a switch. Let's make a dimmer which will do only that. So, you can connect it in series with mini switch with will keep your functionality and please dimmer under the sealing right behind a light. This way one device turns it on and off and another one dim it.
The Shelly dimmer has a setting to work with normal US switches. As long as you are just doing single or 2 way switching it works with normal switches. Anything more than 2 and you need to go with momentary switches.
Great video as always. Wondering if you have perhaps tried to add an external push-button to the D1 via GPIO4? I was wanting to replicate traditional dimmer functionality - i.e. short press = toggle lights on/off; long press = increase brightness till released; "Next" long press = reduce brightness till released.
I actually did that in my first Shelly1 video way back and still have it installed today. I did put a small spring in it though as it was getting stuck at times so it's not a 100 percent perfect.
Hi there,I have installed the D1 into my ceiling as I was installing a new 4 light pendant led vintage bulb type , had only one hot live ( as you call it- I'm in Ireland so we have a different term for it). There were 4 recessed Spot lights already in the ceiling and my better half wanted them kept so the only solution (because I didn't want to kango out my solid wall) was to put up a splitter and leave the hot going to original 4 spots and used hive smart bulbs because they tie in with my system and Google assistant, and the other split I put to the D1 , bought the remote as per and even though I have reset the D1 on numeurous occasions the light dims itself from about 1w led (10watts) to 80w X 4 (8w led) about every 40mins or so and I have no schedule set for it , if I ask Google to dim it to 5% it's beautiful and then 40mins later the whole ground floor of the house is lit up like a fuckin spaceship for absolutely no reason, it just does its own thing, they say when you re-pair the remote it stops all of that but it doesn't..need to find a fix, driving me crazy. Anyhoo thanks for the video, very detailed easy to follow, any help from your subscribers would be gratefully accepted.
@@digiblurDIY Hi there, no the smart bulbs are on there own separate loop, the hot wire from the switch on the wall is split and then it feeds the D1 on one split and I have spots X 4 with smart bulbs on another split. So one set of lights are controlled by D1 and the other via App or Google assistant, both work perfectly via Google assistant by D1 keeps doing its own thing when left alone...
I think you are forgetting that most of the world outside of the US uses a different wiring design and the size of the electrical box. Our house (in Sweden) has the dimmers wired in a junction box away from the switches and the lights. I believe this is due to the size of boxes here and room available. So this Sonoff D1 is perfect for us except for the fact that they should have had a dedicated terminal that accepts line voltage and can control the dimming similar to what Shelly dimmer does. My biggest problem with D1 is the ghost switching.
@@digiblurDIY You can see from this page that this is a common form factor here. The light switch is momentary (a normal switch that you can add a spring to so it stays on just when you push it) that supplies line voltage to this style dimmer. Ours has just one input so pushing it turns it on and the next time you push it, it will reverse directions. foretag.eldirekt.se/elmaterial/dimmer/dimmer-ovriga
Hello, I noticed two capacitors on the dimming side it may be a snubber circuit as there is a 2W resistor next to it (Yellow & Blue capacitor), can you please tell me whether they are connected in series or parallel ? And what is the value of the caps ? Thank you in advance...
Shame, I've been waiting for sonoff to make a dimmer, but this is hopelessly short of the mark. Unless it can be improved by Tasmotizing and soldering on jumpers for touch sensors for up and down controls.... but then why didn't they just build it properly in the first place....
I was thinking of that with touch sensors too as it could be done as long as they didn't hold low like some sensors. But GPIO 3,4,5 would work. Just a pain to solder those and then depends on how much is it worth it to you and your time.
Thanks for another great video, can you tell me if Sonoff has another light switch dimmer like their T2 or do the T2 have the ability to dim a light / Led , thanks
I’ve got a Shelly dimmer. I want to add it into my wall box but the actual switch is just on and off, controlling a set of 6 LED downlights. I don’t really care about dimming from the wall, but I do want to be able to app control or voice control when I want the dimming in certain situations. Can I still use the Shelly dimmer in this configuration? The wall switch would remain unchanged. So would I only connect into S1? And leave S2 empty?
How do you get the Sonoff D1 to enter into WiFi pairing mode (after it was previously paired)? I flicked the power repeatedly, but it doesn't seem to do it!
Hi my friend! Tks to produce this vids! answer me a question. in Brazil, a guy used this dimmer to control a fan. 110v, 1 Amp. Is it crazy or can I try to do it too???
You will need the RF remote, you have to pair it then unpair it. This will fix ghost switching, I have bought the remote just to fix this but then I found it useful when you don't have your phone with you.
So did my sonoff 4ch, in that case the solution was cutting the copper antenna inside, i still don't understand why they put 433 if it's so susceptible to interference
Oww, a Sonoff dimmer! But uhm, it looks bulky! And cheap... What happened to the Sonoff Mini design? And just stop with the RF4433, it's 2020 damnit! Just go for Zigbee. About the inputs/buttons, here in Europe / the Netherlands 95% or so of the dimmers are rotary (or rotary-push). And if they use buttons a one or a two button design is more common. Click for on/off and hold for dimming. Alternating is single button or dedicated down/off and up/on. But still think the rotary version is more convenient. Or, just use scenes. Dimming (and switching for that matter) single lights is 20th century. For day to day use I like scenes "work", "normal", "cozy", "film" etc. Which I trigger with a button, or better, automatically! For that once a year moment I need to change a single light I can grab my phone :D
Most of the ones I grew up with had the slider on the wall. It would click at the bottom to go to off then you would slide it up based on how bright you wanted it. Makes sense the way Shelly designed it given the design you mention. Doesn't make sense the way Sonoff designed it though. Totally weird.
Most dimmers here are either one or two button.
The one button. Works by press for on, hold to dim and the dim will alternate between brightening and dimming on alternate presses.
Two button have a dedicated up and down if held, but toggle the light on a press.
The other type is the rotary knob with integrated on/off by pressing the dimmer knob.
The SonOff remote is kind of like the Philips Hue ones that can be removed from the wall, but most people don't remove them
Thanks for the info!
I’m based in the uk and really like the D1, reason is I’ve tried various other dimmers and always had trouble with flicker but not with Sonoff. Also I still keep a switch at the wall and just create a routine to switch on d1 when touched and keep the rf controller next to bed for convenience.
Just to update the comment that the remote/switch unit doesn’t allow dimming/brightening. It does - just hold the preset buttons (ones that show 1%, 40%, 60% and 100%.
I’m finding these useful and small enough to install in the light fittings themselves, rather than the wall socket, as in the UK most houses don’t have a neutral wire at the switch; makes most smart dimmers useless, and sticking capacitors across the load to give residual current to power the switch, flakey at best.
My biggest gripe with the D1 is still host switching; think I’ve finally traced it to the 590R receiver chip and its AGC.
Nice review for US market :). Always good to see where things work well and where they don’t. Not all your review is applicable to me, but knowledge is power and all that; I’d rather be informed and able to interpret whats relevant, than uninformed and disabled.
I do think the issue was the target market was not the US market which is why I had so many issues with it.
digiblurDIY Yeah, I’m not sure what market they were targeting. Not US. Not UK with needing a neutral wire. Asia? Europe? Carry on the good work bud.
I have the same issue, kept the switch on the wall but used the neutral coming from the rcbc panel in the ceiling, have huge issue though with it doing its own thing, mainly the brightness levels. If I use Google assistant it works perfect 5% brightness no flickering, but it brightens itself to 100% after 30-40mins and we're all blinded, no schedule set...
@@TheEcorristine Ah, ghost switching, the bane of everyone with a D1. There are two solutions, depending on whether you want to use the remote control or not. If you do, pair the remote, then un-pair it, then re-pair it again. To do the re-pairing, you have to power off, wait at least 30 seconds, then immediately after powering back on do the re-pair, then as soon as it beeps to signal the re-pair was successful, do nothing for several minutes. That tends to give a stable pairing, and thankfully no ghost switching. Mine last until I get some kinds or power cuts; if my ELCB trips, I have to do the whole thing again, but if I just pull the lighting fuse, or turn off at the switch, it stays OK. Go figure! If you don't want to use the remote, you can open it up and desolder about four resistors - I've not don't that myself, but there are reports of several folks doing it successfully.
I assume they though well it is a dimmer not a switch. Let's make a dimmer which will do only that. So, you can connect it in series with mini switch with will keep your functionality and please dimmer under the sealing right behind a light. This way one device turns it on and off and another one dim it.
The Shelly dimmer has a setting to work with normal US switches. As long as you are just doing single or 2 way switching it works with normal switches. Anything more than 2 and you need to go with momentary switches.
If only they had a third input.
Great video as always. Wondering if you have perhaps tried to add an external push-button to the D1 via GPIO4? I was wanting to replicate traditional dimmer functionality - i.e. short press = toggle lights on/off; long press = increase brightness till released; "Next" long press = reduce brightness till released.
Great video as always. ...
FYI, you can turn a standard decora switch into a rocking one with a small "hack"... several videos online show how.
I actually did that in my first Shelly1 video way back and still have it installed today. I did put a small spring in it though as it was getting stuck at times so it's not a 100 percent perfect.
Hi there,I have installed the D1 into my ceiling as I was installing a new 4 light pendant led vintage bulb type , had only one hot live ( as you call it- I'm in Ireland so we have a different term for it). There were 4 recessed Spot lights already in the ceiling and my better half wanted them kept so the only solution (because I didn't want to kango out my solid wall) was to put up a splitter and leave the hot going to original 4 spots and used hive smart bulbs because they tie in with my system and Google assistant, and the other split I put to the D1 , bought the remote as per and even though I have reset the D1 on numeurous occasions the light dims itself from about 1w led (10watts) to 80w X 4 (8w led) about every 40mins or so and I have no schedule set for it , if I ask Google to dim it to 5% it's beautiful and then 40mins later the whole ground floor of the house is lit up like a fuckin spaceship for absolutely no reason, it just does its own thing, they say when you re-pair the remote it stops all of that but it doesn't..need to find a fix, driving me crazy. Anyhoo thanks for the video, very detailed easy to follow, any help from your subscribers would be gratefully accepted.
Are you mixing smart bulbs with the dimmer?
@@digiblurDIY Hi there, no the smart bulbs are on there own separate loop, the hot wire from the switch on the wall is split and then it feeds the D1 on one split and I have spots X 4 with smart bulbs on another split. So one set of lights are controlled by D1 and the other via App or Google assistant, both work perfectly via Google assistant by D1 keeps doing its own thing when left alone...
I think you are forgetting that most of the world outside of the US uses a different wiring design and the size of the electrical box. Our house (in Sweden) has the dimmers wired in a junction box away from the switches and the lights. I believe this is due to the size of boxes here and room available. So this Sonoff D1 is perfect for us except for the fact that they should have had a dedicated terminal that accepts line voltage and can control the dimming similar to what Shelly dimmer does. My biggest problem with D1 is the ghost switching.
That's very weird. How would you control the lights? Go to the panel?
@@digiblurDIY You can see from this page that this is a common form factor here. The light switch is momentary (a normal switch that you can add a spring to so it stays on just when you push it) that supplies line voltage to this style dimmer. Ours has just one input so pushing it turns it on and the next time you push it, it will reverse directions. foretag.eldirekt.se/elmaterial/dimmer/dimmer-ovriga
This should have built in and on off switch on the dimmer just to switch it on and off.
Might be useful as a RF433 to MQTT bridge. But not really good for its designed purpose. Awesome review as usual.
Hello,
I noticed two capacitors on the dimming side it may be a snubber circuit as there is a 2W resistor next to it (Yellow & Blue capacitor), can you please tell me whether they are connected in series or parallel ? And what is the value of the caps ?
Thank you in advance...
Hello! Is it possible to flash this device to work with home kit without internet like sonoff switch or Shelly dimmer ?
Shame, I've been waiting for sonoff to make a dimmer, but this is hopelessly short of the mark. Unless it can be improved by Tasmotizing and soldering on jumpers for touch sensors for up and down controls.... but then why didn't they just build it properly in the first place....
I was thinking of that with touch sensors too as it could be done as long as they didn't hold low like some sensors. But GPIO 3,4,5 would work. Just a pain to solder those and then depends on how much is it worth it to you and your time.
Thanks for another great video, can you tell me if Sonoff has another light switch dimmer like their T2 or do the T2 have the ability to dim a light / Led , thanks
The only dimmer I know them to have is this one.
I’ve got a Shelly dimmer. I want to add it into my wall box but the actual switch is just on and off, controlling a set of 6 LED downlights. I don’t really care about dimming from the wall, but I do want to be able to app control or voice control when I want the dimming in certain situations. Can I still use the Shelly dimmer in this configuration? The wall switch would remain unchanged. So would I only connect into S1? And leave S2 empty?
I believe you would use just the S1 in this situation. I'm not sure if it wants the momentary button thing though to stop from dimming.
How do you get the Sonoff D1 to enter into WiFi pairing mode (after it was previously paired)?
I flicked the power repeatedly, but it doesn't seem to do it!
Keep trying it looks like or use the slow pairing mode - support.itead.cc/support/discussions/topics/11000030110
I have a led light track and on the package it says non dimmable, so its not possible to use a dimmer ? I need your help
In my experience you need Dimmable LEDs
What is the led light track ? More than likely you just need a dimmable led driver
God Damm, Dimmer got back!!!
We are always looking for version +1 :D
Can we use this switch on a 40w led tube light?
If it is dimmable, then yes.
Did it miss the mark? Yes. Yes it did. I hate those remotes from my ifan03.
Does it work to control ceiling fan speed ?
No. Look at the ifan03/04
Can I remove the 433mzh?. I have ghost switch problems.
Break out the soldering iron or blade to cut some traces
Hi my friend! Tks to produce this vids! answer me a question. in Brazil, a guy used this dimmer to control a fan. 110v, 1 Amp. Is it crazy or can I try to do it too???
These are meant for lights. I wouldn't use it with a fan.
Unlimited technology from the whole planet and they give us this?
May I ask why you always say Tasmoto to Tasmota firmware?
I talked about this in the device groups video a bit along won't a longer discussion on the Hp290 stream.
Hammer Time 🔨
Close to it! Tasmota firmware might get it to just treading water.
Does it work with Siri?
Sure.
My D1 turns on by itself and changes the light intensity randomly...
Stock firmware or?
@@digiblurDIY yes
You will need the RF remote, you have to pair it then unpair it. This will fix ghost switching, I have bought the remote just to fix this but then I found it useful when you don't have your phone with you.
@Felipe Pestana You will have to do it multiple times, at least that fixed my issue.
So did my sonoff 4ch, in that case the solution was cutting the copper antenna inside, i still don't understand why they put 433 if it's so susceptible to interference
Thanks Travis.
Oww, a Sonoff dimmer! But uhm, it looks bulky! And cheap... What happened to the Sonoff Mini design? And just stop with the RF4433, it's 2020 damnit! Just go for Zigbee.
About the inputs/buttons, here in Europe / the Netherlands 95% or so of the dimmers are rotary (or rotary-push). And if they use buttons a one or a two button design is more common. Click for on/off and hold for dimming. Alternating is single button or dedicated down/off and up/on. But still think the rotary version is more convenient. Or, just use scenes. Dimming (and switching for that matter) single lights is 20th century. For day to day use I like scenes "work", "normal", "cozy", "film" etc. Which I trigger with a button, or better, automatically! For that once a year moment I need to change a single light I can grab my phone :D
Most of the ones I grew up with had the slider on the wall. It would click at the bottom to go to off then you would slide it up based on how bright you wanted it. Makes sense the way Shelly designed it given the design you mention. Doesn't make sense the way Sonoff designed it though. Totally weird.
how to fix ghost switching?
With Tasmota?
just shave that off imo
I just grew it!