Jonathan I have been a fan forever you should have a much bigger following. You really are the one who got me in to the idea of home automation. Thanks man your the best.
YES! A Superhouse video in my feed :) Always look forward to your stuff Jonathon, I really like your unassuming style and presentation. Also how you have been open in the past about your anxiety makes me feel better about mine too. Regards from the UK 🇬🇧 👍
The best release that I've just seen is the SONOFF T4EU1C single wire wall switch, as UK lighting circuits don't supply the neutral at the plate this has just changed everything for me can't wait to get this. Thanks for all the great content !
I think it's a bad thing, because if there is an open circuit than the micro is not getting any juice. I prefer that the micro is always to report no mattet what's with the load
I'm fascinated by the connector ends you're using. I've noticed them on your high voltage, the low voltage duponts and the switch contact wires. I've searched for but haven't found them as of yet. The trouble I always run into with using the Sonoff is for mains tasks is that the wire never feels safe and seated. The connectors you're using looks to complete solve that problem. Love the content BTW. Love the out of the box approach and detail into the boards.
A note about Sonoff smart controllers: Not all are made equal. I bought some, from some site that i have previously never heard of, like 10 of the straight wire-through devices for $25, and i get mixed results. After they've run for about 6-8 months they get very touchy and don't want to pair as easily as the first time out. You end up pairing them in that alternate mode.
Jonathan great to see a new video, in the UK we have a few companies bringing out 2 gang sockets that have a controller built in, not looked into what type. They are a all in one unit, with a bypass switch on the front just like a standard UK main socket
Ive programmed my Sonoff minis to update Firmware OTA, so you only need to connect to the programming pins the first time (to upload the OTA capable firmware). I dont use Tasmota though, just basic Arduino to control the Sonoff in the same way as you showed with Tasmota including the toggle function. The advantage of using OTA is that the Sonoff can remain in the wall for firmware updates and its super easy to update all 20 of my Sonoffs with new firmware just by sitting at my computer.
Yes, that's exactly what I do with all my Sonoffs too. I didn't even think of mentioning that in the video because it's the normal process using Tasmota. Reflashing using the jig (or DIY mode OTA) only ever has to be done once. Tasmota has built-in one-click OTA updates
really useful video. Just got a few minis and use the OTW programming method and it worked fine. NO soldering, No Jig BUT you must follow the instructions very acurately. Might be worth doing a short ammed to the video which shows this method as an alternative for low volumes! You can always fall back on the hard wire method if you brick the device!
Any concerns about overheating? The Mini packs quite a bit of circuitry in a very small board, and it receives 110V. The Mini casing seems to be cheap plastic and board overheating could cause serious fire damage.
The switch on the mini works exactly as one would expect. However, you are the first one who actually confirms it. Even when I asked itead they just gave a general sales pitch reply, so thank you for that. Will I order one? Hmmm the Shelley is interesting too but the main thing making me hesitant is the depth of dutch switchboxes: the already minimal space behind the switch often taken bij hard to bend stiff wires going to that switch and/or neighbouring switches or sockets. Darn! Who would give this video a thumbs down? Must be those Shelley boys
I love the Sonoff mini - have put 4 in light switches already, and will be ordering more. You can actually do the initial flash OTA using curl on a Mac, and I have set up a shell script to do it in a single of command, but it helps if you can have a permanent sonoffDiy wireless network.
I've seen docs on the Tasmota site for that, but haven't tried it. If you're doing many of them, having a WiFi network permanently set up just for Sonoff flashing is a good idea.
@@SuperHouseTV It takes a little bit to set up, but once you have set up a web server (my MacBook laptop works fine) you can just have a script with the checksum and local url for a Sonoff basic binary, and then you only have to issue a single command with the IP address of the Sonoff and its ID, which you can write down when it is first detected by eWeLink. You can then just issue a command such as ./flash 192.168.1.70 100098b773 and it is done
Hey Jon, you are right to say the "changeover switch" idea is ALMOST perfect! But I disagree, it is not intuitive for visitors coming to the house because half the time, the switch will be upside down. Most people are accustomed to seeing switch down means ON and so I think this would confuse people. Does the Sonoff Mini have a mode supporting momentary switches? (I'm sure this can be done with Tasmota just fine...) That said, I agree with Brant Winter, the Holy Grail would be a dimmer that works like this!
I'm looking at these now, I know the risks with live GPIO's but they wont be accessible when behind the wall. shelly.cloud/wifi-smart-home-automation-shelly-dimmer/ Smaller than the Sonoff Mini as well.
In my house, most of my lamps are controlled by 2 or more switches. The direction of the switch has no link with the status of the lights. So adding such a device as some sort of additional switch would be perfect (if possible, see comment of "Apathetic DIYer"). For "one-on-one" configurations I guess this might cause some confusion
6:47 - Sonoff's product media for the Mini is not to use a metal backbox. "It is recommended that the frontside of MINIR2 is installed outside during installation and do not install it in the metal junction box."
old video I know just got an s55 realised in arrival it's a naff design the flap doesn't close when something is plugged in, so no longer waterproof. Meaning you can't have something plugged in long term
I hooked the Sonoff mini up to a two way light switch, it works great. I've also started using home assistant, and I've integrated ewelink. Now I can control all my lights without flashing them.
@@EssGeeSee you have to make sure that both switches aren't connected to mains. I've placed my sonoff mini in the lamp. And connected the two switch wires to the Sonoff. This video will help m.ruclips.net/video/E5NXpNfQ31s/видео.html
And here IS the Holy Grail! shelly.cloud/wifi-smart-home-automation-shelly-dimmer/ It has physical switch input, dimming and power usage monitoring. Would love to see a review when they become available.
Hi Jonathan. An interesting presentation indeed. May I ask you an "indirect question" - the wire terminals (yellow and red) which you use to terminate the various wires running to the Sonoff - could you please help me and identify them (Amazon or eBay). Needless to say, connecting wires to the Sonoff is easy but also prone to shorts as the terminals are so close to each other :-( the terminations you are using look very adequate for such interconnections. Thank you!!!!
I thought of another use for the mini.. I want to monitor when my water softener goes through a cycle, and how long each stage of the cycle happens. My softener has a cam wheel driven by a motor controllered by softeners timer. It has a microswitch riding on the cam wheel telling the timer the position of the valves. I put another micro switch in tandom, and run the common and N.O. wires from the switch to the S1 and S2 of the mini. Ewelink has a "Log" function so I can see to the second when each part of the cycle starts and stops. I'm not using the mini to control any power, but this makes for a pretty simple monitoring device.
I think you could also use this to monitor when a door (garage) is open, and use the '"inch" (blink) function. You can create a scene for the door monitor mini that turns on another sonoff.
Jonathan - great work thanks so much. Its guys like you that give confidence that we can do this stuff ourselves. I'm just getting started on automating my home. I note the Sonoff Dual, TH10/16 and POW are certified by ERAC. You are in OZ like me and I note you are very safety conscious. What your take on using the Mini in OZ when its not certified?
Very thorough review of these 2 products. Happy to see a lot less expensive option to fit inside a gang box. Just not sure I am sold in using WiFi over Z-Wave, just quite yet. Maybe once we jump into ability to select between 2.4 and 5.8.
Yes, I just received the PCBs last night so I'm going to build and test one soon. There will be more discussion about this on the SuperHouse Discord soon, because I'll need feedback on how other people want to connect USB to it. I know how I'll do it, but others may have different plans
If the Sonoff Mini was 'single wire' (no Neutral required) then it might be, as you say, "close to the Holy Grail" - but withe no Neutral anywhere near the switchbox as standard, it's ruled out for many countries unless you want a lot of work... I look forward to the video on the 'One Wire Touch' - those fit the bill, even if I don't particularly like the styling. Keep up the good work - Thanks.
5 лет назад
Yeah, a no Neutral wire version would be the perfect tool for the job. I hope it comes sometimes later.
@@Mr31Vince So you're saying that Sonoff's new '"One Wire - No Neutral" touch switch (which Jon mentioned in the video) can't possibly work??? There are two methods - residual current or phase shifting and many other manufacturers use one or the other to remove the need for the Neutral. iTead have just been a bit slow to take it up.
I'm already recording the video about the no-neutral Sonoff Touch, and they've had to do some interesting trickery to make it work. I don't think they could make it fit into the Mini form factor because of the need for things like a very large capacitor
Man - so tempted! I'd love to not only do my lighting, but use the s55s on my pool solar pump and the filter pump... and move the logic to home assistant. Hmm
Great video! The Sonoff Mini seems to be the answer to my long-standing question of how to automate my push-button TV bed (push and hold the button for 1 second and the TV pops up from the bottom of the bed). I don't need a small relay as it would just be inside the side of the bed. I was going to buy the BASICZBR3 for this task but I thought it wouldn't work because I want it to operate from both, the existing buttons (one on either side of the bed), and through Google Assistant, SmartThings etc. I'm pretty sure the Mini would work because one of the buttons could be wired into the terminals for the external switch. But, the mini is WiFi and I avoid WiFi for home automation. I will wait for a Sonoff relay of any size that operates with Zigbee and has terminals for an external switch. I don't think this exists, yet. Thanks again.
There is mains voltage on the antenna wire so I wouldn't put it outside the box. I have one outside my house in a metal weatherproof box so I installed a short piece of pvc pipe with a cap on the end that the antenna is in.
Make 3rd party mini cases with pogo pins built in -- that way it can function as a jig or permanent setup, allowing you to do field reflashes -- perhaps also grabbing the additional gpios to allow them to control perhaps a backlit switch for night time or status LED or something for unique/custom deployments -- you could even make a magnetic connector meant to be near to a faceplate allowing relfashes/resets without removing the face plate at all or at least minimally -- with one of those magnetic usb cables modified for the serial/jtag
Super interesting Video You told, that you put the link for the housing for programming the mini in the description. I couldn’t find it. Are the stl’s available anywhere.
Hi. Thanks for sharing this video. I would really like to get hold of one of your sonoff mini programming jig pcbs to do some flashing for the home automation system I want to set up. That would make it loads easier. Do you sell these at all?
One of the best smart switches videos, thank you. With you system & tasmoto. Can you program the Sonoff to work with Apple HomeKit ? It’s very strange there’s so few relays that don’t support HomeKit as it’s much more secure than Android.
Sorry you may have covered this but just to clarify, will the mini work with an existing analog dimming switch? - I have a European style dimmer switch - round knob you dial for dimming and press for on/off.
Those are called ferrules, and they're awesome. I got a pack of different sizes and a crimping tool from AliExpress, and they have it so much nicer when using screw terminals.
Great tutorial Jonathan Im curious about the mini sonoff logical terminal(switch) when I check the output voltage it has a reading of 90V. Is this safe?
That DIY tool from Itead is ugh! I've sent them to a pull request to fix the issues running the .py on Linux. As an aside, you can actually easily flash tasmota using nothing but lighttpd, curl and a mobile hotspot by utilising the ota_update API endpoint that is exposed on the stock firmware. I actually have a script that does this without issue *knock on wood* in lieu of having a fancy pogo pin adapter like this! :)
MOST UK & Australian houses DON'T have a Neutral wire at the switch - it's only a live feed from the mains and a supply line to the light - the Neutral runs only to the light socket and then loops to the next one. You'd need to rewire every switch with a Neutral to use this device.
Ok. Seems like a dumb question, but there's no reason I couldn't take a Basic or Mini, wire up the input and parallel it to my load and wire up a toggle switch, right? Not use the output of the relay to switch the load. That way I can use that as an inexpensive way to get input into Home Assistant and use it to turn on or off WiFi bulbs without interrupting their power input.
Regarding your wired vs wifi video, would you trust such product for a light switch? Its a single component and you can still manually use it in case of a wifi jam
In shelly 2.5 or 1 both uses live wire for switch which helps to connect two way switch (2 physical switch one bulb). Is there a way to do same with Sonoff mini without using an extra wire.
I really like your channel it gives me a lot to think about. Im disabled and I am using your info tutorials to help make my life a lot easier. so thank you. I have a question. I have a motorised recliner seat it has 2 control hand units one up n down other heat and vibrations. I have problem with hands so would like to voice control the up and down motion of the seat, is that something you could explain how to do? I m sure it would benefit a lot of people. Thanks
Hi Jonathan - Ahem, if only British sockets were so neat...20 minutes into your video. The smartest thing I've done in recent times was starting the conversion to European plugs and sockets. In Spain I have many adaptors combining 2-way sockets (for lights etc) and 3 way (for power) - as many as 10-in-one - in the UK we have these honking great 3-way plugs and sockets just to power a light - and we have wiring that dates back to post-WW2 when we were (apparently) short of copper - in modern pretty materials - early this century we made the move from red (obviously dangerous) and black (not obviously dangerous) to brown and blue to harmonise with EU colours - but our wiring is NOT like other EU counties - certainly not like Spain (I have houses in both). We need the warning of course because of the way we do our wiring - with neutral connected to ground way back at the transformer or substation (not actually sure where). In our home in Spain there is no difference between the two wires which are completely interchangeable - plugs and sockets don't specify live/neutral etc. Folk in the UK will say AHH! the wiring in Spain is more dangerous - well, I've had a MANY shocks in the UK from JUST touching the LIVE wire (I started messing with electricity approaching 60 years ago as a child with dreams of jamming the neighbour's radio), but no shock from touching either wire in Spain. Anyway the upshot of this rant is I LIKE the switched socket you have at 20:03 into the video. Also, just got my first Sonoff Minis and after struggling with that DAFT DIY mode, I've fitted Espurna - LOVELY. I'll soon have more useful info up at tech.scargill.net (not sure if your channel will put that link in or destroy it). I also have my first Shelly 1... in the latter, I haven't found the need to put custom softeare in it yet... as from Node-Red, the API seems to work a treat as-is (http request node). Those external sockets I believe I have on the way.
Hi Jonathan, can you please make a video showing how to use the Sonoff Mini to control a light via trafitional (physical) two way switches, i.e. switch on or off from both sides of a large room. As an additional challenge, how can the Sonoff Dimmer Switch D1 be included to enable dim control to the same light all via Google Home or Alexa?
Hi Jonathan Really good instructions on how to wire up. Two quick questions, 1. Is Sonoff Mini compliant with Australian safety standards? 2. How do you wire up with a 2 or 3 gang switch?
Small question. What if I have a 2 gang or a 3 gang switch? I will have to have one MINIR for each right? Well in that case I wouldnt have enough space to fit in. Right?
Hi Jonathan, it looks like your AC sockets are single and low amperage, in the UK we have double sockets each capable of delivering 13 amps, do Sonoff have anything that would control our sockets ? thanks Stuart
I guess there is no way to use s1 and s2 as dry contacts using them to control something voltage separate like a 24 v controlling a pellet stove . Is there a smart relay with dry contacts to do this . I can do it with a solid state relay with dry contacts and a smart switch to activate the relay but it would be nice to have an all in one package
If the Sonoff Mini stops working, your router goes down, et cetera, does that mean your physical switch will no longer work until you rewire it or replace the Sonoff unit?
Glad to see you back more often. DrZzz made a comparison between the sonoff mini and the shelly. What is your opinion on both? As I live in Europe the shelly form factor is better for wall inlets.
Have you got the T4EU1C single wire switch yet? Really interested to see how it gets power. Maybe a capacitor with high enough reactance to prevent the light turning on ? Has to be fair about of power for the esp. Hoping you discuss the schematic. Thanks
Question... Do you think that the switch can be a "Capacitance Touch Switch"? If is so, should be connected to GND, GPIO14, and 3V3 to make it work? Thank you. Big Fan!
You said a negative of the S20 was it is bulky, but the S55 is even more so and would have to be mounted to your wall, and would look weird being used indoors surely?
The mini needs to accept a mains input for a switch not just the low voltage input. Then would be ideal for the UK where switches don't carry a neutral. ATM I use a different make unit that does exactly that, means that here in the UK I can just fit the unit in the ceiling at the the light and use the switched mains voltage that used to turn the light on/off to activate the new unit. All works perfect
Hi Jonathan, What happened s after a power failur? When the electricity comes back, is there any memory functionality of the light on/off state before power went down? Or will it start working back again with lights on? Off? Do you have any way to remember and restore the light state after power comes back?
It depends on the firmware you run. With Tasmota and some other alternative firmware it can power up always off, always on, or in the last known state.
I am about to smart my home and like Z-Wave/Zigbee more than wifi to use as primary wireless comunication, what would be different if we use son off basic or mini Zigbee? No tasmota possible?
Fantastic mate 👍! I live in the u.s., and so my question isif I have a regular switch with a neutral and a load. Where do I connect that on the terminal of the mini? Would it make a huge difference is the poles were reversed?
Hello Jonathan, i was thinking to use this setup but with a switch to provide electricity to the sonoff. So if i switch it off no power. Mostly i will leave it on and put it on and off with a philips hue controller. Is this ok to do this ?
Dear Sir. I'm a new fan of your knowledge Thank you for the very interesting video. I wonder if I could do the same thing using a Sonoff TH16. I'd like to use an existing wall thermostat and have control and also know the temperature remotely. I think I should use the existing thermostat instead of your switch. Is it possible to do it using the GIOs?
Hello, thanks for video. I have problem: A fatal error occurred: Failed to connect to Espressif device: Timed out waiting for packet header. How can I check if S55 is working? Red light shining. Could you help me?
HEY,its amazing to watch your channel and im slowly getting interested and dragged into home automation.thanks. a question about sonof mini.Au switches generally are looped and have lots of wire into one switch and on some light switch there is no neutral at the switch. some of them have neutral, but lots of active in and out.so how do we connect the switch and the active going to the light to sonof mini.?im sorry if its silly but im sure you would undesrtand my question. or i can email you my query with some photos. thanks.
If you do not have Neutral on the switch box, then MINI will not work because Mini requires Neutral and Line present. You have three posibilites 1. Bring a neutral to mini 2. Install mini on the junction box (where neutral is present) 3. Replace mini with this product www.itead.cc/smart-home/sonoff-t4eu1c-wi-fi-smart-single-wire-wall-switch.html.
there known as ferrels in the uk. they stop the stranded cable that hes using to keep the loose strands of the cable being outside of the sonoff terminals
Love your videos and I've followed you from the start. Can I just ask one thing. Can you mute the times you say Alexa? You said she who should not be named and then immediately used the trigger word :). Honestly love your videos though. You explain things so well.
You wouldn't believe how many times I turned on the soldering iron accidentally while I was editing the video! Good idea about muting, perhaps I could mute just that word and put it on the screen
@@SuperHouseTV Sounds like a good idea. Voice assistants are quite sensitive to youtube audio, even if they don't always work with real voice :) Just as something extra, I would love to see a walk through of your current home automation system. It would be nice to see how it has evolved over time.
The S55 has a major design flaw of not having rear inlet for power, plus it could not be used for a pool pump as it's relay is rated to 10A, pool pump switch on surge current will burn the relay out.
Problem with this device is you don't have a neutral line at the light switch, so you can't put this behind a traditional light switch, plus traditional house lights wiring does not switch neutral and active so to use these would require a major house rewiring.
This is the query I have too! It won’t work in a standard household wiring configuration. Do Sonoff do a device that only switches I.e. doesn’t supply a current to the output device?
Jonathan I have been a fan forever you should have a much bigger following. You really are the one who got me in to the idea of home automation. Thanks man your the best.
YES! A Superhouse video in my feed :)
Always look forward to your stuff Jonathon, I really like your unassuming style and presentation. Also how you have been open in the past about your anxiety makes me feel better about mine too.
Regards from the UK 🇬🇧 👍
Thanks 877cms!
Great video. Straightforward explanations and no annoying background music
Jonathan, I love that you asked Alexa to "please turn on the soldering iron". Nice manners! This seems so fitting of you.
Always be polite to your virtual assistants! You never know when they might decide to "Alexa, electrify the bathtub" you.
The best release that I've just seen is the SONOFF T4EU1C single wire wall switch, as UK lighting circuits don't supply the neutral at the plate this has just changed everything for me can't wait to get this. Thanks for all the great content !
I think it's a bad thing, because if there is an open circuit than the micro is not getting any juice. I prefer that the micro is always to report no mattet what's with the load
Your videos are always a pleasure to watch. Well thought out and always clearly explained. Job well done.
I'm fascinated by the connector ends you're using. I've noticed them on your high voltage, the low voltage duponts and the switch contact wires. I've searched for but haven't found them as of yet. The trouble I always run into with using the Sonoff is for mains tasks is that the wire never feels safe and seated. The connectors you're using looks to complete solve that problem. Love the content BTW. Love the out of the box approach and detail into the boards.
They are called boot lace crimps mate 👍
Crystal Clear explanation. Am ordering a bunch by year-end sale! Cheers!
Thx for giving us another great tutorial......
Glad that you are back
A note about Sonoff smart controllers: Not all are made equal. I bought some, from some site that i have previously never heard of, like 10 of the straight wire-through devices for $25, and i get mixed results. After they've run for about 6-8 months they get very touchy and don't want to pair as easily as the first time out. You end up pairing them in that alternate mode.
The outdoor points are nice because you normally can’t fit the smart plugs in an outdoor door outlet cover. I do wish it was a double outlet instead
Hi Jonathan good to see you again.
Jonathan great to see a new video, in the UK we have a few companies bringing out 2 gang sockets that have a controller built in, not looked into what type. They are a all in one unit, with a bypass switch on the front just like a standard UK main socket
Can you point me at them please Andrew?
@@nickharvey5149 in the new Toolstation catalogue p539 and p558, code 43298
Great new products! Thanx for making it look so easy to use it to our best intentions
Brilliant. Most encouraging for newbies. wasn’t clear what advantages were with Tasmota??? Pls tell. Thx.
Ive programmed my Sonoff minis to update Firmware OTA, so you only need to connect to the programming pins the first time (to upload the OTA capable firmware). I dont use Tasmota though, just basic Arduino to control the Sonoff in the same way as you showed with Tasmota including the toggle function. The advantage of using OTA is that the Sonoff can remain in the wall for firmware updates and its super easy to update all 20 of my Sonoffs with new firmware just by sitting at my computer.
Yes, that's exactly what I do with all my Sonoffs too. I didn't even think of mentioning that in the video because it's the normal process using Tasmota. Reflashing using the jig (or DIY mode OTA) only ever has to be done once. Tasmota has built-in one-click OTA updates
really useful video.
Just got a few minis and use the OTW programming method and it worked fine. NO soldering, No Jig BUT you must follow the instructions very acurately.
Might be worth doing a short ammed to the video which shows this method as an alternative for low volumes! You can always fall back on the hard wire method if you brick the device!
That is a very solid wood cabinet you have there!
Any concerns about overheating? The Mini packs quite a bit of circuitry in a very small board, and it receives 110V. The Mini casing seems to be cheap plastic and board overheating could cause serious fire damage.
Love the burn marks on the mat !!!!!
The switch on the mini works exactly as one would expect. However, you are the first one who actually confirms it. Even when I asked itead they just gave a general sales pitch reply, so thank you for that.
Will I order one? Hmmm the Shelley is interesting too but the main thing making me hesitant is the depth of dutch switchboxes: the already minimal space behind the switch often taken bij hard to bend stiff wires going to that switch and/or neighbouring switches or sockets. Darn!
Who would give this video a thumbs down? Must be those Shelley boys
Sat on wc with coffee and iPad......very interesting, thanks for posting. Enough said 👍
Hi Jon,
Do you have the programming Jig board available for sale yet? Doing my head in trying to flash a mini!
I love the Sonoff mini - have put 4 in light switches already, and will be ordering more. You can actually do the initial flash OTA using curl on a Mac, and I have set up a shell script to do it in a single of command, but it helps if you can have a permanent sonoffDiy wireless network.
I've seen docs on the Tasmota site for that, but haven't tried it. If you're doing many of them, having a WiFi network permanently set up just for Sonoff flashing is a good idea.
@@SuperHouseTV It takes a little bit to set up, but once you have set up a web server (my MacBook laptop works fine) you can just have a script with the checksum and local url for a Sonoff basic binary, and then you only have to issue a single command with the IP address of the Sonoff and its ID, which you can write down when it is first detected by eWeLink. You can then just issue a command such as ./flash 192.168.1.70 100098b773 and it is done
Wanarunna is there a documentation about how to do it that you can share?
Thank you.
Hey Jon, you are right to say the "changeover switch" idea is ALMOST perfect! But I disagree, it is not intuitive for visitors coming to the house because half the time, the switch will be upside down. Most people are accustomed to seeing switch down means ON and so I think this would confuse people. Does the Sonoff Mini have a mode supporting momentary switches? (I'm sure this can be done with Tasmota just fine...)
That said, I agree with Brant Winter, the Holy Grail would be a dimmer that works like this!
I'm looking at these now, I know the risks with live GPIO's but they wont be accessible when behind the wall.
shelly.cloud/wifi-smart-home-automation-shelly-dimmer/
Smaller than the Sonoff Mini as well.
In my house, most of my lamps are controlled by 2 or more switches. The direction of the switch has no link with the status of the lights. So adding such a device as some sort of additional switch would be perfect (if possible, see comment of "Apathetic DIYer"). For "one-on-one" configurations I guess this might cause some confusion
6:47 - Sonoff's product media for the Mini is not to use a metal backbox. "It is recommended that the frontside of MINIR2 is installed outside during installation and do not install it in the metal junction box."
Great tutorial, Thank you.
Nice to see you in my video feed again
The 3D print model was made by the RUclipsr Andreas Spiess if I recall correctly
better known by his own introduction as "The guy with the Swiss accent".
old video I know just got an s55 realised in arrival it's a naff design the flap doesn't close when something is plugged in, so no longer waterproof. Meaning you can't have something plugged in long term
Thanks for the informative video as always. Quick question, what side Ferrules were you using there?
I hooked the Sonoff mini up to a two way light switch, it works great. I've also started using home assistant, and I've integrated ewelink. Now I can control all my lights without flashing them.
How did you wire this? Did you connect it to the first or second switch? Thanks.
@@EssGeeSee you have to make sure that both switches aren't connected to mains. I've placed my sonoff mini in the lamp. And connected the two switch wires to the Sonoff. This video will help m.ruclips.net/video/E5NXpNfQ31s/видео.html
Thanks Leon
The Holy Grail would be a dimmer that works exactly like this!
And here IS the Holy Grail!
shelly.cloud/wifi-smart-home-automation-shelly-dimmer/
It has physical switch input, dimming and power usage monitoring. Would love to see a review when they become available.
D1
Hi Jonathan. An interesting presentation indeed. May I ask you an "indirect question" - the wire terminals (yellow and red) which you use to terminate the various wires running to the Sonoff - could you please help me and identify them (Amazon or eBay). Needless to say, connecting wires to the Sonoff is easy but also prone to shorts as the terminals are so close to each other :-( the terminations you are using look very adequate for such interconnections. Thank you!!!!
I thought of another use for the mini.. I want to monitor when my water softener goes through a cycle, and how long each stage of the cycle happens. My softener has a cam wheel driven by a motor controllered by softeners timer. It has a microswitch riding on the cam wheel telling the timer the position of the valves. I put another micro switch in tandom, and run the common and N.O. wires from the switch to the S1 and S2 of the mini. Ewelink has a "Log" function so I can see to the second when each part of the cycle starts and stops. I'm not using the mini to control any power, but this makes for a pretty simple monitoring device.
I think you could also use this to monitor when a door (garage) is open, and use the '"inch" (blink) function. You can create a scene for the door monitor mini that turns on another sonoff.
Well explained. Needed your video to finally convince myself to order some mini. Thanks
Wow! Sonoff have cracked it!
Jonathan - great work thanks so much. Its guys like you that give confidence that we can do this stuff ourselves. I'm just getting started on automating my home. I note the Sonoff Dual, TH10/16 and POW are certified by ERAC. You are in OZ like me and I note you are very safety conscious. What your take on using the Mini in OZ when its not certified?
Very thorough review of these 2 products. Happy to see a lot less expensive option to fit inside a gang box. Just not sure I am sold in using WiFi over Z-Wave, just quite yet. Maybe once we jump into ability to select between 2.4 and 5.8.
Thank you for the post! Very interesting.
Hi Jon Great video...Are you going to make the mini adaptor available on your store ??..Keep those video,s coming !!
Yes, I just received the PCBs last night so I'm going to build and test one soon. There will be more discussion about this on the SuperHouse Discord soon, because I'll need feedback on how other people want to connect USB to it. I know how I'll do it, but others may have different plans
If the Sonoff Mini was 'single wire' (no Neutral required) then it might be, as you say, "close to the Holy Grail" - but withe no Neutral anywhere near the switchbox as standard, it's ruled out for many countries unless you want a lot of work...
I look forward to the video on the 'One Wire Touch' - those fit the bill, even if I don't particularly like the styling.
Keep up the good work - Thanks.
Yeah, a no Neutral wire version would be the perfect tool for the job. I hope it comes sometimes later.
It needs the neutral and live wire to power the Sonoff hardware, you cant get rid of the neutral wire
@@Mr31Vince So you're saying that Sonoff's new '"One Wire - No Neutral" touch switch (which Jon mentioned in the video) can't possibly work???
There are two methods - residual current or phase shifting and many other manufacturers use one or the other to remove the need for the Neutral. iTead have just been a bit slow to take it up.
I'm already recording the video about the no-neutral Sonoff Touch, and they've had to do some interesting trickery to make it work. I don't think they could make it fit into the Mini form factor because of the need for things like a very large capacitor
@@SuperHouseTV I hope you'll be explaining their 'trickery' in a way that the nay-sayers find believable - lest a conspiracy thread thread appears!!!
Man - so tempted! I'd love to not only do my lighting, but use the s55s on my pool solar pump and the filter pump... and move the logic to home assistant. Hmm
Great video!
The Sonoff Mini seems to be the answer to my long-standing question of how to automate my push-button TV bed (push and hold the button for 1 second and the TV pops up from the bottom of the bed).
I don't need a small relay as it would just be inside the side of the bed.
I was going to buy the BASICZBR3 for this task but I thought it wouldn't work because I want it to operate from both, the existing buttons (one on either side of the bed), and through Google Assistant, SmartThings etc.
I'm pretty sure the Mini would work because one of the buttons could be wired into the terminals for the external switch.
But, the mini is WiFi and I avoid WiFi for home automation.
I will wait for a Sonoff relay of any size that operates with Zigbee and has terminals for an external switch.
I don't think this exists, yet.
Thanks again.
Fantastic, thanks for your help and info...
That bench looks like an AC bomb has hit it!!!
There is mains voltage on the antenna wire so I wouldn't put it outside the box. I have one outside my house in a metal weatherproof box so I installed a short piece of pvc pipe with a cap on the end that the antenna is in.
Make 3rd party mini cases with pogo pins built in -- that way it can function as a jig or permanent setup, allowing you to do field reflashes -- perhaps also grabbing the additional gpios to allow them to control perhaps a backlit switch for night time or status LED or something for unique/custom deployments -- you could even make a magnetic connector meant to be near to a faceplate allowing relfashes/resets without removing the face plate at all or at least minimally -- with one of those magnetic usb cables modified for the serial/jtag
Super interesting Video
You told, that you put the link for the housing for programming the mini in the description.
I couldn’t find it. Are the stl’s available anywhere.
Hi. Thanks for sharing this video. I would really like to get hold of one of your sonoff mini programming jig pcbs to do some flashing for the home automation system I want to set up. That would make it loads easier. Do you sell these at all?
One of the best smart switches videos, thank you. With you system & tasmoto. Can you program the Sonoff to work with Apple HomeKit ? It’s very strange there’s so few relays that don’t support HomeKit as it’s much more secure than Android.
Sorry you may have covered this but just to clarify, will the mini work with an existing analog dimming switch? - I have a European style dimmer switch - round knob you dial for dimming and press for on/off.
What are those bootlace type crimp fittings you are using?
Those are called ferrules, and they're awesome. I got a pack of different sizes and a crimping tool from AliExpress, and they have it so much nicer when using screw terminals.
@@SuperHouseTV Have you got a link?
Great tutorial Jonathan Im curious about the mini sonoff logical terminal(switch) when I check the output voltage it has a reading of 90V. Is this safe?
That DIY tool from Itead is ugh! I've sent them to a pull request to fix the issues running the .py on Linux. As an aside, you can actually easily flash tasmota using nothing but lighttpd, curl and a mobile hotspot by utilising the ota_update API endpoint that is exposed on the stock firmware. I actually have a script that does this without issue *knock on wood* in lieu of having a fancy pogo pin adapter like this! :)
Dear Jonathan, Like the way you explain. Good work Keep it up! Love from India...
MOST UK & Australian houses DON'T have a Neutral wire at the switch - it's only a live feed from the mains and a supply line to the light - the Neutral runs only to the light socket and then loops to the next one. You'd need to rewire every switch with a Neutral to use this device.
Ok. Seems like a dumb question, but there's no reason I couldn't take a Basic or Mini, wire up the input and parallel it to my load and wire up a toggle switch, right? Not use the output of the relay to switch the load. That way I can use that as an inexpensive way to get input into Home Assistant and use it to turn on or off WiFi bulbs without interrupting their power input.
how in the world this video has any thumbs down, i cant understand this people. great job again as always
Hi Jonathan, are u selling these sonoff mini flashing rigs? I couldn't find them in your website.
Regarding your wired vs wifi video, would you trust such product for a light switch? Its a single component and you can still manually use it in case of a wifi jam
In shelly 2.5 or 1 both uses live wire for switch which helps to connect two way switch (2 physical switch one bulb). Is there a way to do same with Sonoff mini without using an extra wire.
I really like your channel it gives me a lot to think about. Im disabled and I am using your info tutorials to help make my life a lot easier. so thank you. I have a question. I have a motorised recliner seat it has 2 control hand units one up n down other heat and vibrations. I have problem with hands so would like to voice control the up and down motion of the seat, is that something you could explain how to do? I m sure it would benefit a lot of people. Thanks
Hi Jonathan - Ahem, if only British sockets were so neat...20 minutes into your video. The smartest thing I've done in recent times was starting the conversion to European plugs and sockets. In Spain I have many adaptors combining 2-way sockets (for lights etc) and 3 way (for power) - as many as 10-in-one - in the UK we have these honking great 3-way plugs and sockets just to power a light - and we have wiring that dates back to post-WW2 when we were (apparently) short of copper - in modern pretty materials - early this century we made the move from red (obviously dangerous) and black (not obviously dangerous) to brown and blue to harmonise with EU colours - but our wiring is NOT like other EU counties - certainly not like Spain (I have houses in both). We need the warning of course because of the way we do our wiring - with neutral connected to ground way back at the transformer or substation (not actually sure where).
In our home in Spain there is no difference between the two wires which are completely interchangeable - plugs and sockets don't specify live/neutral etc. Folk in the UK will say AHH! the wiring in Spain is more dangerous - well, I've had a MANY shocks in the UK from JUST touching the LIVE wire (I started messing with electricity approaching 60 years ago as a child with dreams of jamming the neighbour's radio), but no shock from touching either wire in Spain.
Anyway the upshot of this rant is I LIKE the switched socket you have at 20:03 into the video. Also, just got my first Sonoff Minis and after struggling with that DAFT DIY mode, I've fitted Espurna - LOVELY. I'll soon have more useful info up at tech.scargill.net (not sure if your channel will put that link in or destroy it). I also have my first Shelly 1... in the latter, I haven't found the need to put custom softeare in it yet... as from Node-Red, the API seems to work a treat as-is (http request node). Those external sockets I believe I have on the way.
Hi Jonathan, can you please make a video showing how to use the Sonoff Mini to control a light via trafitional (physical) two way switches, i.e. switch on or off from both sides of a large room. As an additional challenge, how can the Sonoff Dimmer Switch D1 be included to enable dim control to the same light all via Google Home or Alexa?
Hey man.. Great vid. Can you talk about this "Superhouse Dashboard" on your phone (18:06)? What is this? Thanks! Greetings from Brazil.
That's just Node-RED with the Dashboard module. I've talked about that on the SuperHouse Discord server, and I'll cover it more in future.
"She who shall not be named"
"Proceeds to name her"
Whats the joke? Why is Alexa voldemort?
Hi Jonathan
Really good instructions on how to wire up.
Two quick questions,
1. Is Sonoff Mini compliant with Australian safety standards?
2. How do you wire up with a 2 or 3 gang switch?
Question. If I have WiFi off, will mini still switch the light by S1 S2?
Small question. What if I have a 2 gang or a 3 gang switch? I will have to have one MINIR for each right? Well in that case I wouldnt have enough space to fit in. Right?
The rubber band is almost at my level of problem solving skills 😁
I have advanced problem solving skills: I keep 3 different sizes of rubber band handy :-P
lol. I hear ya, im not even at that Level, id still be pushing balls of Blu Tack on there till it stopped moving...lol
Give him a rubber band and he will build a space telescope with it! Ala MacGyver
Is the Sonoff Mini rated compliant for use in Australia if installed by a licenced electrician?
Hi Jonathan, it looks like your AC sockets are single and low amperage, in the UK we have double sockets each capable of delivering 13 amps, do Sonoff have anything that would control our sockets ? thanks Stuart
Thanks for the video. Love this channel ✌🏻
I guess there is no way to use s1 and s2 as dry contacts using them to control something voltage separate like a 24 v controlling a pellet stove . Is there a smart relay with dry contacts to do this . I can do it with a solid state relay with dry contacts and a smart switch to activate the relay but it would be nice to have an all in one package
Instead of a cumbersome pins can't you use the DIY and flash (brush machine sic)? It is more steps but it's much simples.
Hello Jonathan. I need your help. How can I make a 3 stage switch smart? Is any product in the market?
If the Sonoff Mini stops working, your router goes down, et cetera, does that mean your physical switch will no longer work until you rewire it or replace the Sonoff unit?
Glad to see you back more often. DrZzz made a comparison between the sonoff mini and the shelly. What is your opinion on both? As I live in Europe the shelly form factor is better for wall inlets.
I have a couple of Shelly devices here, and I've neglected to do anything with them. I want to try them out and do a comparison.
Nice skidmark on the bench :)
Have you got the T4EU1C single wire switch yet? Really interested to see how it gets power. Maybe a capacitor with high enough reactance to prevent the light turning on ? Has to be fair about of power for the esp. Hoping you discuss the schematic. Thanks
Question... Do you think that the switch can be a "Capacitance Touch Switch"?
If is so, should be connected to GND, GPIO14, and 3V3 to make it work?
Thank you. Big Fan!
You said a negative of the S20 was it is bulky, but the S55 is even more so and would have to be mounted to your wall, and would look weird being used indoors surely?
The mini needs to accept a mains input for a switch not just the low voltage input. Then would be ideal for the UK where switches don't carry a neutral. ATM I use a different make unit that does exactly that, means that here in the UK I can just fit the unit in the ceiling at the the light and use the switched mains voltage that used to turn the light on/off to activate the new unit. All works perfect
Hi Jonathan,
What happened s after a power failur? When the electricity comes back, is there any memory functionality of the light on/off state before power went down? Or will it start working back again with lights on? Off?
Do you have any way to remember and restore the light state after power comes back?
It depends on the firmware you run. With Tasmota and some other alternative firmware it can power up always off, always on, or in the last known state.
I am about to smart my home and like Z-Wave/Zigbee more than wifi to use as primary wireless comunication, what would be different if we use son off basic or mini Zigbee? No tasmota possible?
Is it a MUST to have MOMENTARY SWITCH or you can use usual two way switches? A bit confused by your tutorial even though I found it super helpful.
You must NOT have a momentary switch
Fantastic mate 👍! I live in the u.s., and so my question isif I have a regular switch with a neutral and a load. Where do I connect that on the terminal of the mini? Would it make a huge difference is the poles were reversed?
Hello Jonathan, i was thinking to use this setup but with a switch to provide electricity to the sonoff. So if i switch it off no power. Mostly i will leave it on and put it on and off with a philips hue controller. Is this ok to do this ?
Another nice work Jon! Do you know if the switch will still work when the network is down?
Dear Sir.
I'm a new fan of your knowledge
Thank you for the very interesting video.
I wonder if I could do the same thing using a Sonoff TH16.
I'd like to use an existing wall thermostat and have control and also know the temperature remotely.
I think I should use the existing thermostat instead of your switch.
Is it possible to do it using the GIOs?
Hello, thanks for video. I have problem: A fatal error occurred: Failed to connect to Espressif device: Timed out waiting for packet header. How can I check if S55 is working? Red light shining. Could you help me?
Does the switch need to be an on/off type? Would a momentary switch do the job?
Hi, I would like to buy the 3d printed box with terminals to flash the sonoff mini. where can I get it ? thanks !
HEY,its amazing to watch your channel and im slowly getting interested and dragged into home automation.thanks. a question about sonof mini.Au switches generally are looped and have lots of wire into one switch and on some light switch there is no neutral at the switch. some of them have neutral, but lots of active in and out.so how do we connect the switch and the active going to the light to sonof mini.?im sorry if its silly but im sure you would undesrtand my question. or i can email you my query with some photos. thanks.
If you do not have Neutral on the switch box, then MINI will not work because Mini requires Neutral and Line present. You have three posibilites
1. Bring a neutral to mini
2. Install mini on the junction box (where neutral is present)
3. Replace mini with this product www.itead.cc/smart-home/sonoff-t4eu1c-wi-fi-smart-single-wire-wall-switch.html.
Hello I want to know what kind the connectors do yo you used in sonoff mini?
there known as ferrels in the uk. they stop the stranded cable that hes using to keep the loose strands of the cable being outside of the sonoff terminals
Hi. Is there any way to connect DS18B20 sensor to S55 ? Greetings
Hello, I wonder if I could use the touch switch TTP223 with SONOFF MINI.......
Love your videos and I've followed you from the start.
Can I just ask one thing. Can you mute the times you say Alexa? You said she who should not be named and then immediately used the trigger word :).
Honestly love your videos though. You explain things so well.
You wouldn't believe how many times I turned on the soldering iron accidentally while I was editing the video! Good idea about muting, perhaps I could mute just that word and put it on the screen
@@SuperHouseTV Sounds like a good idea. Voice assistants are quite sensitive to youtube audio, even if they don't always work with real voice :)
Just as something extra, I would love to see a walk through of your current home automation system. It would be nice to see how it has evolved over time.
IIRC there's a method to call the name without triggering devices.
It's used in Alexa commercials.
But I guess muting would be the easiest method ;)
The S55 has a major design flaw of not having rear inlet for power, plus it could not be used for a pool pump as it's relay is rated to 10A, pool pump switch on surge current will burn the relay out.
That depends on your pump. I ran mine off a Sonoff Basic for ages.
Problem with this device is you don't have a neutral line at the light switch, so you can't put this behind a traditional light switch, plus traditional house lights wiring does not switch neutral and active so to use these would require a major house rewiring.
This is the query I have too! It won’t work in a standard household wiring configuration.
Do Sonoff do a device that only switches I.e. doesn’t supply a current to the output device?