Great video… but what I would also say is at: @2:28 …this is a 2L engine and what I wanna do realy quick is to clean up all the leaves and weeds in the wiper ecu valey
Hi! This video is really well detail explained. But unfortunately I have a VW Jetta 2008 and I can’t complete my monitor evap system and secondary air injection. Any tip would help me out.
Thanks for this video. I’ve noticed I almost never hear the SAI pump go on lately… usually my cold start is with temps around 3ºC… do you believe a vacuum leak at the SAI valve could be causing this? I’ve been getting poor mpg and I’m thinking it might be a vacuum leak but haven’t found it, the car runs smoothly, no misfires, new spark plugs, oil etc…
I've got P049100, P049200 fault codes for the audi 3.0supercharged TFSI engine. The pump looks good and the hoses too. So I've check solenoid valves and EGR?
I have a 2000 Jetta 2.0, I’ve tested my smog pump by jumping the Pins on the relay and it work fine no leaks either, and I replace the relay, I checked all the fuses and for vaccume leaks, the code it is throwing is a p0411, my pump does not want to turn on when I’m starting it on cold start or when I turn it off, I even cleaned the grounds and nothing, what am I missing ?
Here's an EASY TEST you can do to rule some things out: Find the intake tube of the SAI pump, it's usually directly connected to air intake box. Remove the air intake box if necessary and disconnect it so you can see the open of end of the intake tube. Now when the vehicle is dead cold and hasn't been running in some time, start the engine, leave it in park with the hood open, and then run around the front and see if the pump turns on. If the pump doesn't turn on check the fuse and the SAI pump relay in ECU box, typically under the hood or compartment below the steering wheel. The relay terminals sometimes turn black when it's going bad. Also check the wires leading to the SAI pump for damage. If all are good then you may need to replace your pump, but that's typically rare. If the pump turns on, is there a good amount of suction at the end of the intake tube? There should be. If not, then you either have a bad pump, a clogged or broken intake line, clogged or broken tubes that lead to the exhaust manifold, faulty solenoids that control the combi vales, faulty combi valves, OR worst case scenario, clogged ports in the engine head that exit each exhaust port. That's a very costly or time consuming fix. If the pump turns on and you have good suction, then that means the ECU is sending signal, intake tube is good, SAI pump is good, but you may have broken hoses OR, a big OR, you may have had a clogged foam filter in your air intake box that the SAI pump intake tube was attached to and by you disconnecting it you actually without knowing fixed the problem. I'd recommend replacing this foam filter as they disintegrate and also clog up overtime. To rule out broken hoses simply activate your pump manually by applying 12 volts directly to it with the engine off, and seeing when the SAI pump runs that not much air is entering the system. With the engine off, the SAI system is closed, so the air should have no where to exit and thus very little to no suction even when the SAI pump is running. That's a good sign and that means you don't have broken lines. The combi valves and solenoids could still be bad and stuck in the closed position preventing air from entering your exhaust but that was ruled out when you cold started the vehicle and felt a good amount of suction at the intake tube. It's all trial and error, but no one ever mentioned utilizing the intake tube as a convenient means of diagnosis. Accessing the combi valves and inspecting all the lines is FAR more difficult than simply power the SAI pump when the system is activated the ECU and when you manually activate the pump with the system off (closed). Best of luck
My fuse 43 keeps blowing codes were the ho2s heater control circuit low bank 1 sensor 2. Evap purge valve short in ground, Evap leak detected in system. Secondary air injection system relay ‘A’ malfunction. I changed the Evap purge valve this weekend, checked the SAI relay and it looks clean no scoring, replaced the fuse. Start up was fine. Pump was running as it should. Rpm’s fell back to 750 then I took off down the road. 3 miles later I heard the fuse 43 pop and the CEL and EPC Light came back on.. your thoughts?
I am thinking VW did away with the relay for 2007 bug convert. No reference in the owners manual and no evidence under the hood. My air pump tests good but does not come on at startup. Is there a switch/monitor that tells the computer to start the pump? If there is one where is it located? It is not on the tube from the pump to the silver valve. I assume the computer tells the pump to stop. Since it is not throwing a code I don't think a long drive will fix the problem. It won't pass the mechanical portion of the smog test. The week before all this I fixed the PCV diaphragm which was causing a CEL.
Have Mk4 02 GTI and have obd eleven pro scan tool and software. Im having trouble getting the secondary air monitor to run.. all others are and no cel codes ...the car runs fine just 80,000 miles completely stock and maintained... Done most everything and it won't let me force the test.. but can other monitors.
I have a 2007 vw bug that I am working on. No codes but I can’t get it to set the IM readiness code for the secondary air system. Car runs well… any suggestions what to check (that would not allow readiness but not throw a code)? Thanks
That’s an odd one. What scan tool are you using? If it is a good one that reads factory codes, maybe try to disconnect the battery cable ends and touch them for about 30 seconds and try again. I had one like that with O2 sensors that wouldn’t pass and that fixed it years ago. Sorry I can’t be of more help!
I have a 2011 s4 and I just wanted to know if this will affect the performance of the vehicle , I have a check engine as a result, can I drive it this way ?
Any tips on how to remove and replace the solenoid switch? My combi valve and air pump pass the jumper-the-relay-and-apply-vaccuum-to-combi-valve test. The relay checks out, as well. (Pump does come on during cold starts or VCDS secondary air readiness monitor routine. I can feel no vacuum from the solenoid switchover valve when the engine is running and air pump is running, which leads me to believe it is not sending vacuum to the combi valve. No pending or actual DTCs, but the readiness monitor never sets. (The others all set quickly and easily with a couple of drives.)
I had two component failures: 1) carbon-clogged combi. Replacing it prevented additional check engine lights, but the smog test readiness monitor would not set. 2) solenoid switch that controls the combi: Wasn't holding a vacuum. Replacing it let me set the monitor in two relatively short drives. Removal and replacement of the control solenoid valve wasn't that bad -- I suggest removing the three 10mm bolts that allow the triangular solenoid mounting plate to be lowered from under the intake manifold.
Trying to find a resistor to put in place of the wire connector that powers the SAI or more information in general regarding the sai on the 2.0L N/A specifically. Mk4 2.0L avh If anyone could help it would be greatly appreciated.
I have a 1998 VW Beetle 2.0 engine. I just got a P0411 code from an Auto Zone, with a recommendation to "Replace Vacuum Hoses from Secondary Air Inlet Valve". Just wondering how accurate these recommendations are before I replace the hoses. It's a new air pump by the way. Thanks for your help.
Not sure what you have going on but this video is from a 1999 and should be the exact same. You can replace the vacuum line, as it is very cheap to do. Clear the code and recheck.
I've got a 2020 VW Tiguan. You say the system won't impact drivability, but my car just stopped starting. The only code is P2431 -- "Air control solenoid failure, Powertrain Control Module (PCM) failure, Secondary Air System pressure sensor failure, Wiring issue" I guess that rules out the secondary air system pressure sensor as the culprit?
No disrespect at all ive been looking on youtube for the Air and breather systems wanting to cut out alot of them I have an 05 A4 1.8t and it just has way too much for my liking and being nearly 20 years old everything crumbles when you touch it. on the later models you can buy a delete kit but not for the bfb engine only the tfsi variant hence trying to watch as much as i can about them to try diy remove it all myself.
thanks for video - I replaced a new air pump but I am still getting the engine light, I presume the problem is with the hoses / valve? how can I fix this? thanks in advance
Ok, 07 2.5 wabbit 5spd stick. 2ndary air pump is running like a vacuum full-time. I found the hoses to the pump compromised, replaced both hoses. Replaced pump, replaced solenoid valve, and swapped the 100amp fuses to see if that was the issue. I even replaced the MAP sensor under the throttle body. I cleaned the throttle body while I was at it. I have looked for this SAI sensor but have never found it, it's supposed to be on one of the tubes, but there's nothing. Also, I am the one and only owner. I did find a video about the SAI and MAP sensors being physically identical. However, they are not one has to be sure that the right part number is in the right location. Any help with this situation is greatly appreciated.
If it is running non stop, either the relay is stuck or the driver in the ecm that turns the relay on is stuck. I think the ecm grounds the relay through the brown/violet wire in pin 8 of the fuse panel where the relay goes. That wire could also be rubbed and grounding to the body somewhere. The ecm applies ground through either pin 46 or 47 to turn the pump on through the relay, to the 85 pin. I hope this helps!
Question for you I have a 2005 Volkswagen Jetta 2.0 and the secondary air Injection is broken. In your video you mentioned about buying the part fairly cheap can you give me a recommendation online where to buy this so I can have it replaced thank you in advance. Great video by the way
Any ideas about the actual net usefulness of this system, other than floating thousands of dollars to garages to keep repairing them? Does it actually prevent any significant air pollution?
It makes the catalytic converter heat up faster which will reduce hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide when the car is colder. That’s all! When the car is at operating temperature the system does nothing at all. Thanks for watching!
I have a new 2022 Tiguan 2.0t. The problem I'm having is on cold mornings and days with temps around 18-30 degrees. I start vehicle up and drive away, and within 30 seconds car has a hesitation/miss/cough. After about 60-90 vehicle runs fine. No codes are seen or found. Dealer service manager told me it is the secondary air pump and is normal. Dealer is not willing to do any corrections because of no codes. Have you seen any of this? Vehicle has 750 miles. Thanks
I have not heard of this happening. Without a code, the dealer cannot do anything unfortunately, due to policy reasons. It is very odd that I would not leave a code, because VWs are very apt to leave them if even the smallest issue is happening. I would suggest leaving the car with them when it is this cold, and going out with the tech to show them exactly what it is doing.
I have a 2.5 2013 and just got the 0491 code. Is it possible to remove the combi valve and clean it out instead of replacing it? I would think some real good cleaner might get all the carbon out, if that is my issue. Thanks
can u please help me on my Audi A3 2002 BFQ. When I do the test I can not hear anything and the relay is OK. I even changed it for a new but the issue doesn't get fixed. Where should I check. I am a little lost with this problem. I tried to do 12V direct to the secondary air pump and it is working fine so I don't get it. Let me know. Thanks in advance.
I have a 2004 VW Jetta it has a hard time shifting it is a automatic I took it to a mechanic and they put a timing belt and water pump I bought this VW a couple of months ago and it had a vacuum leak also and it had the engine light was on what do think is wrong with the VW Jetta and can I fix it myself
I have an audi tt 2003 just replace my secondary air pump. No noise on the cold start all hoses connected to the secondary air pump are new. what could be the problem?
I got a 2000 vw golf 2.0 and has the code p0411 I have replace the selenoide, the pump, the valve, I even clean up the pipe that goes from the valve to the catalytic and replace the oxygen sensor clear the the code but after 5 miles driving the light comes back on, any ideas don't know what else to do
@ if necessary, the wiper cowl can be removed. Wipers come out with 13mm nuts, plastic cover pops off, remove the wiper motor assembly, you will have a few 10mm bolts holding in the black metal plate, and it opens up the rear of the engine so much. Takes like five minutes to do and is worth it not to fight with the little bit of room they have back there.
2 года назад
@@AutoScholarwithMrB sounds good. anything i need to mark before i remove like the wiper blade bolts or anything with nail polish?
2 года назад
@@AutoScholarwithMrB and just wanted to be sure we are talking about the same 2.0l 2000 vw beetle non turbo
I was racking by brain around what thw hell the random vacuum cleaner next to my engine was untill my friend told me what it was for lol He only knew cause he removed it when he was doing a custom exhaust and it started showing fault codes
3 minutes in and you already found my problem. Thanks!
Glad I could help, thanks for watching!
On the MKIV generation, the Secondary Air Intake Pump runs for about 100 seconds at cold start, then again for ten seconds at the first stop.
Thanks. I always wondered why my car did this
wow i don't have any problems with my air pump . but it was an excellent video fun to watch.
Bro! U saved me so much time. The CC is g2g!
Glad I could help my guy! Hope you are doing ok.
Great video… but what I would also say is at:
@2:28
…this is a 2L engine and what I wanna do realy quick is to clean up all the leaves and weeds in the wiper ecu valey
Hi! This video is really well detail explained.
But unfortunately I have a VW Jetta 2008 and I can’t complete my monitor evap system and secondary air injection.
Any tip would help me out.
On a cold start let your car idle for 20 mins then drive for 10 mins that’ll set the secondary
❤How to clean or replace idle air control valve. On VW JETTA 2011 2.0 L . And where it located..
Thanks for this video. I’ve noticed I almost never hear the SAI pump go on lately… usually my cold start is with temps around 3ºC… do you believe a vacuum leak at the SAI valve could be causing this? I’ve been getting poor mpg and I’m thinking it might be a vacuum leak but haven’t found it, the car runs smoothly, no misfires, new spark plugs, oil etc…
How do you check voltage in the secondary air sensor from the signal wire?
I've got P049100, P049200 fault codes for the audi 3.0supercharged TFSI engine. The pump looks good and the hoses too. So I've check solenoid valves and EGR?
I have a 2000 Jetta 2.0, I’ve tested my smog pump by jumping the Pins on the relay and it work fine no leaks either, and I replace the relay, I checked all the fuses and for vaccume leaks, the code it is throwing is a p0411, my pump does not want to turn on when I’m starting it on cold start or when I turn it off, I even cleaned the grounds and nothing, what am I missing ?
I have the same issue. Did you get it resolved??
What a great video I have a1998jetta2.0 but my original relay is#111 I’m going to check that now
Thank you, 411 is present while I used my new scanner. Gonna try a few things! 🍺🍺
Good luck with your repair, and thanks for watching!
Great video. My new SAI pump turns on intermittently. Replaced 100 relay but still does it. Any thoughts would be great. Thanks
You ever find the cause for that.?? I'm having the same problem
Here's an EASY TEST you can do to rule some things out:
Find the intake tube of the SAI pump, it's usually directly connected to air intake box. Remove the air intake box if necessary and disconnect it so you can see the open of end of the intake tube.
Now when the vehicle is dead cold and hasn't been running in some time, start the engine, leave it in park with the hood open, and then run around the front and see if the pump turns on.
If the pump doesn't turn on check the fuse and the SAI pump relay in ECU box, typically under the hood or compartment below the steering wheel. The relay terminals sometimes turn black when it's going bad. Also check the wires leading to the SAI pump for damage. If all are good then you may need to replace your pump, but that's typically rare.
If the pump turns on, is there a good amount of suction at the end of the intake tube? There should be. If not, then you either have a bad pump, a clogged or broken intake line, clogged or broken tubes that lead to the exhaust manifold, faulty solenoids that control the combi vales, faulty combi valves, OR worst case scenario, clogged ports in the engine head that exit each exhaust port. That's a very costly or time consuming fix.
If the pump turns on and you have good suction, then that means the ECU is sending signal, intake tube is good, SAI pump is good, but you may have broken hoses OR, a big OR, you may have had a clogged foam filter in your air intake box that the SAI pump intake tube was attached to and by you disconnecting it you actually without knowing fixed the problem. I'd recommend replacing this foam filter as they disintegrate and also clog up overtime.
To rule out broken hoses simply activate your pump manually by applying 12 volts directly to it with the engine off, and seeing when the SAI pump runs that not much air is entering the system.
With the engine off, the SAI system is closed, so the air should have no where to exit and thus very little to no suction even when the SAI pump is running. That's a good sign and that means you don't have broken lines. The combi valves and solenoids could still be bad and stuck in the closed position preventing air from entering your exhaust but that was ruled out when you cold started the vehicle and felt a good amount of suction at the intake tube.
It's all trial and error, but no one ever mentioned utilizing the intake tube as a convenient means of diagnosis. Accessing the combi valves and inspecting all the lines is FAR more difficult than simply power the SAI pump when the system is activated the ECU and when you manually activate the pump with the system off (closed).
Best of luck
My problem is that the pump is working even when the car is turned off and that drains my battery. What is the problem there and how can it be fixed?
My fuse 43 keeps blowing codes were the ho2s heater control circuit low bank 1 sensor 2. Evap purge valve short in ground, Evap leak detected in system. Secondary air injection system relay ‘A’ malfunction. I changed the Evap purge valve this weekend, checked the SAI relay and it looks clean no scoring, replaced the fuse. Start up was fine. Pump was running as it should. Rpm’s fell back to 750 then I took off down the road. 3 miles later I heard the fuse 43 pop and the CEL and EPC Light came back on.. your thoughts?
You said in the video that these pumps are about thirty bucks nowadays because of the age of the vehicle yet everywhere I've called wants 400-plus
Check Amazon, they are much cheaper there.
Junkyard. I got mine for less than $30. Just take a cordless drill battery and some wire to test the pump.
They are not no where near 400 if you're not calling the dealer
Learned a lot watching that
Thanks for watching Gregory!
where does the vacuum line go on the switch over valve ?
I am thinking VW did away with the relay for 2007 bug convert. No reference in the owners manual and no evidence under the hood. My air pump tests good but does not come on at startup. Is there a switch/monitor that tells the computer to start the pump? If there is one where is it located? It is not on the tube from the pump to the silver valve. I assume the computer tells the pump to stop. Since it is not throwing a code I don't think a long drive will fix the problem. It won't pass the mechanical portion of the smog test. The week before all this I fixed the PCV diaphragm which was causing a CEL.
Very good video and explanation SR.
Have Mk4 02 GTI and have obd eleven pro scan tool and software. Im having trouble getting the secondary air monitor to run.. all others are and no cel codes ...the car runs fine just 80,000 miles completely stock and maintained... Done most everything and it won't let me force the test.. but can other monitors.
Your scan tool is the same that Scotty has.
What system does 1999 early model aeg 2.0? My sons 4th gen 1999 believe did not come with air pump.
Awesome job and explanation. 👌
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching.
I have the same car 01 jetta 2.0 with a p0420 and p0172 would the p0172 cause a p0420 as well?
Were do I start to diagnose?
I have a 2007 vw bug that I am working on. No codes but I can’t get it to set the IM readiness code for the secondary air system. Car runs well… any suggestions what to check (that would not allow readiness but not throw a code)? Thanks
That’s an odd one. What scan tool are you using? If it is a good one that reads factory codes, maybe try to disconnect the battery cable ends and touch them for about 30 seconds and try again. I had one like that with O2 sensors that wouldn’t pass and that fixed it years ago. Sorry I can’t be of more help!
I have a 2011 s4 and I just wanted to know if this will affect the performance of the vehicle , I have a check engine as a result, can I drive it this way ?
This should not impact the way the vehicle performs, and you should be okay to drive it. Thanks for watching, and have fun with that S4!
Thanks helps me a lot for these tests
Thanks for watching!
Do Japanese cars have this system? Or is it exclusive of vw and audis?
No, many cars have this system, but many don’t as well.
Any tips on how to remove and replace the solenoid switch? My combi valve and air pump pass the jumper-the-relay-and-apply-vaccuum-to-combi-valve test. The relay checks out, as well. (Pump does come on during cold starts or VCDS secondary air readiness monitor routine. I can feel no vacuum from the solenoid switchover valve when the engine is running and air pump is running, which leads me to believe it is not sending vacuum to the combi valve. No pending or actual DTCs, but the readiness monitor never sets. (The others all set quickly and easily with a couple of drives.)
I had two component failures:
1) carbon-clogged combi. Replacing it prevented additional check engine lights, but the smog test readiness monitor would not set.
2) solenoid switch that controls the combi: Wasn't holding a vacuum. Replacing it let me set the monitor in two relatively short drives.
Removal and replacement of the control solenoid valve wasn't that bad -- I suggest removing the three 10mm bolts that allow the triangular solenoid mounting plate to be lowered from under the intake manifold.
Trying to find a resistor to put in place of the wire connector that powers the SAI or more information in general regarding the sai on the 2.0L N/A specifically.
Mk4 2.0L avh
If anyone could help it would be greatly appreciated.
From where the voltage that activates the relay for the air pump comes from?
I have a 1998 VW Beetle 2.0 engine. I just got a P0411 code from an Auto Zone, with a recommendation to "Replace Vacuum Hoses from Secondary Air Inlet Valve". Just wondering how accurate these recommendations are before I replace the hoses. It's a new air pump by the way. Thanks for your help.
Not sure what you have going on but this video is from a 1999 and should be the exact same. You can replace the vacuum line, as it is very cheap to do. Clear the code and recheck.
Would this cause a p0420 code? I notice my SAI hose has lots of duct tape on it. So, I'm just trying to troubleshoot
Most likely not.
I've got a 2020 VW Tiguan. You say the system won't impact drivability, but my car just stopped starting. The only code is P2431 -- "Air control solenoid failure, Powertrain Control Module (PCM) failure, Secondary Air System pressure sensor failure, Wiring issue" I guess that rules out the secondary air system pressure sensor as the culprit?
I would find it very doubtful that is your issue if the car doesn’t start. Have you scanned the entire car, or just the PCM?
How to remove two screws holding in Secondary Air Injection Valve?
I never knew Thomas Lennon was a vw diagnostic guru
@@T-Wrex1864 ha ha! I had to look him up. Bravo! Thanks for watching.
No disrespect at all ive been looking on youtube for the Air and breather systems wanting to cut out alot of them I have an 05 A4 1.8t and it just has way too much for my liking and being nearly 20 years old everything crumbles when you touch it. on the later models you can buy a delete kit but not for the bfb engine only the tfsi variant hence trying to watch as much as i can about them to try diy remove it all myself.
@@T-Wrex1864 no worries my man. I may have found my Halloween costume this year. Might do a little new boot goofin!
My 2004 mk4 is giving me that code and it’s leak smoke when it’s running what can it be ?
I have problems with Passat 2005 2lite engine no AZM 118010 Secondary Air Injection system Bank 1,Flow Too Low.
Please can you help
I am not familiar with that engine, but I would check the valve, all vacuum lines, and see if you can hear the pump operate.
thanks for video - I replaced a new air pump but I am still getting the engine light, I presume the problem is with the hoses / valve? how can I fix this? thanks in advance
Check for vacuum at the combi valve's control port on a cold start, when the pump is running.
Ok, 07 2.5 wabbit 5spd stick.
2ndary air pump is running like a vacuum full-time.
I found the hoses to the pump compromised, replaced both hoses.
Replaced pump, replaced solenoid valve, and swapped the 100amp fuses to see if that was the issue. I even replaced the MAP sensor under the throttle body. I cleaned the throttle body while I was at it.
I have looked for this SAI sensor but have never found it, it's supposed to be on one of the tubes, but there's nothing. Also, I am the one and only owner.
I did find a video about the SAI and MAP sensors being physically identical. However, they are not one has to be sure that the right part number is in the right location.
Any help with this situation is greatly appreciated.
If it is running non stop, either the relay is stuck or the driver in the ecm that turns the relay on is stuck. I think the ecm grounds the relay through the brown/violet wire in pin 8 of the fuse panel where the relay goes. That wire could also be rubbed and grounding to the body somewhere. The ecm applies ground through either pin 46 or 47 to turn the pump on through the relay, to the 85 pin. I hope this helps!
Hello!! What is the name of the relay?
Secondary air injection pump relay
Well done video. Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
Question for you
I have a 2005 Volkswagen Jetta 2.0 and the secondary air Injection is broken. In your video you mentioned about buying the part fairly cheap can you give me a recommendation online where to buy this so I can have it replaced thank you in advance. Great video by the way
Amazon is your friend!
I looked on Amazon but some of the reviews say the part did not last long. Can you recommend one over the other on Amazon perhaps
Are you looking for the pump?
Yes sir
Any ideas about the actual net usefulness of this system, other than floating thousands of dollars to garages to keep repairing them? Does it actually prevent any significant air pollution?
It makes the catalytic converter heat up faster which will reduce hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide when the car is colder. That’s all! When the car is at operating temperature the system does nothing at all. Thanks for watching!
I have a new 2022 Tiguan 2.0t. The problem I'm having is on cold mornings and days with temps around 18-30 degrees. I start vehicle up and drive away, and within 30 seconds car has a hesitation/miss/cough. After about 60-90 vehicle runs fine. No codes are seen or found. Dealer service manager told me it is the secondary air pump and is normal. Dealer is not willing to do any corrections because of no codes. Have you seen any of this? Vehicle has 750 miles. Thanks
I have not heard of this happening. Without a code, the dealer cannot do anything unfortunately, due to policy reasons. It is very odd that I would not leave a code, because VWs are very apt to leave them if even the smallest issue is happening. I would suggest leaving the car with them when it is this cold, and going out with the tech to show them exactly what it is doing.
I have a 2.5 2013 and just got the 0491 code. Is it possible to remove the combi valve and clean it out instead of replacing it? I would think some real good cleaner might get all the carbon out, if that is my issue. Thanks
It is worth a shot, let me know how it goes.
can u please help me on my Audi A3 2002 BFQ. When I do the test I can not hear anything and the relay is OK. I even changed it for a new but the issue doesn't get fixed. Where should I check. I am a little lost with this problem. I tried to do 12V direct to the secondary air pump and it is working fine so I don't get it. Let me know. Thanks in advance.
If the relay is clicking, check the wiring and ground from the relay to the pump.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB everything is ok from the ground but it doesn't start the pump. Really strange. Can u do a video about it for testing?
Very informative
I have a 2004 VW Jetta it has a hard time shifting it is a automatic I took it to a mechanic and they put a timing belt and water pump I bought this VW a couple of months ago and it had a vacuum leak also and it had the engine light was on what do think is wrong with the VW Jetta and can I fix it myself
Are there any trouble codes stored in the engine or transmission modules?
@@AutoScholarwithMrB no the engine light is off
Peter Campolla still may be codes in the transmission. Those transmissions had many issues.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB what should I do
Peter Campolla I would take it to someone who has a good scan tool to see what codes you have, if any. Also make sure the fluid is full and clean.
On the Passat, the relay is labeled 373.
my combi doesnt have a vac line
I have an audi tt 2003 just replace my secondary air pump. No noise on the cold start all hoses connected to the secondary air pump are new. what could be the problem?
Possible relay or fuse, it’s hard to tell.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB I forgot to mention theres no engine light ON either
@@luismadrigal8001 oh well there may be no problem at all. If there is a an issue you would have a light on.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB Since I have an incomplete secondary air system on my OBD. Do you recommend a driving cycle?
@@luismadrigal8001 yes, it may even take a few
I got a 2000 vw golf 2.0 and has the code p0411 I have replace the selenoide, the pump, the valve, I even clean up the pipe that goes from the valve to the catalytic and replace the oxygen sensor clear the the code but after 5 miles driving the light comes back on, any ideas don't know what else to do
Does the pump run?
I checked this morning with the help of my brother and I didn't hear it running maybe is the wrong relay
Fantastic
Problem with Secondary Air Injection sistem Bank 1,Flow Too Low Permanent,on Passart 2005 2 litar.
what if you think combi valve isn't working?
You can remove the valve and test it by seeing if it opens using a vacuum pump.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB how the heck do I get to it on a 2.0l new beetle its on the back of the engine really hard access
@ if necessary, the wiper cowl can be removed. Wipers come out with 13mm nuts, plastic cover pops off, remove the wiper motor assembly, you will have a few 10mm bolts holding in the black metal plate, and it opens up the rear of the engine so much. Takes like five minutes to do and is worth it not to fight with the little bit of room they have back there.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB sounds good. anything i need to mark before i remove like the wiper blade bolts or anything with nail polish?
@@AutoScholarwithMrB and just wanted to be sure we are talking about the same 2.0l 2000 vw beetle non turbo
Are you in California?
No, Georgia
Tanks.
I was racking by brain around what thw hell the random vacuum cleaner next to my engine was untill my friend told me what it was for lol
He only knew cause he removed it when he was doing a custom exhaust and it started showing fault codes
Ha ha! Yes it sounds a lot like a vacuum cleaner. Thanks for watching!
$30 ? Maybe used at the junkyard
Well this video is three years old, but they are still only $45 amzn.to/3sGguV6
tf are u talking about the sai 300 bucks for my a4
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chinese cheap vcds scanner will do the testing. :)
30 bucks my arse. Stealership says a $800 job.
They are $43 dollars on Amazon right now, they were cheaper when this was filmed.