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what I liked about your video is that... you got straight to the point, no loud music to drown your voice, and no wanna be comedian, you gave me the exact information that I needed.
In this video, I did not remove the timing belt from the vehicle like the Honda manual tells you to. I bought this from someone who did not take care of it for a long time (so the car was mine at the time I filmed this) and I wanted to get it running as quickly and as cheaply as possible so I used a shortcut for the timing belt. If this job was for someone else, then I would have removed the entire timing belt properly and recommended that a brand new timing belt, new pulley, new water pump and new belts be properly installed after the head was repaired/replaced. If you want to give a thumbs down for this, by all means go ahead, I understand. P.S. It has been well over a year since I filmed this and I still own this car and it being driven every single day without issue (one of these days I will go ahead and replace the timing belt components). This is the car I loan people when they bring me their vehicle for repair and they do not have a vehicle to drive while I am fixing their car.
To affirm that that trick, though risky, can work; I too have slipped my timing belt exactly as you did a coupletimes now and had absolutely no problems. (The reason once wasnt enough was because i didnt go far enough inside the engine to fix ALL of the problems....mine was previously owned by a teenager with no clue how to work a manual transmission.
VERY THOROUGH AND DETAILED vid. Well lit with good narration. I like it. I opened up the gasket cover of an '87 Nissan CoStanza to replace the cardboard gasket years ago. Didn't know what I was doing. But at the advice of a mechanic, I'd bought the shop manual when I purchased the car and did minor repairs over the years. Good investment. Saved me a couple grand on repairs. And I learned a few things along the way. The Nissan? Ran for another four years before I traded it in. No leak since the replacement.
Excellent ( calm and pleasant ) play by play narration.... was not at all like the days of my youth witnessing my father dance up and down cursing and swearing ! I have done my fair share of head gaskets, but still got a few good pointers of ya - kudos !
You must be a pro, or used to work on cars. The skill and knowledge you have is much more than a normal DYI guy. I have just started my own RUclips channel, and I fix cars when there is an issue. So far so good. Owned cars for 15 years, and have done all repairs myself. And I'm a basic knowledge guy compared to you...
Hey you gotta start somewhere! It really just takes alot of Time and practice to learn what he knows. You'll get there and Good luck with your RUclips channel!!
this is the best head gasket video i’ve seen for a 2000 honda civic lx( i have the exact same one) and i’m sure this will help me out. i used distilled water instead of coolant because i was loosing coolant before so that was a waste. i did a flush after because inside my radiator was a mud looking substance so i did a flush and used distilled water to fill it back up and white foams started to pour out the cap while off. my oil looks great, no milky white substance in it. it seems like it’s a small leak so i’ll replace that. it has 187xxx miles so i guess it has done its days. and also i broke off a bolt while replacing the the valve cover gasket so this video relates to my situation very much so. fantastic video!!!! i’ve subscribed and liked this video👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽 way to go
I wear a G-Shock specifically so I can wear it while working. I have beat the crap out of them over the last 25 years or so and they still keep going. That being said, I do take it off sometimes if I feel it would be unsafe to wear it or if I think it might get caught on something. Thanks for the input!
Multiple THUMBS UP to this video/tutorial! Superb! Very calm tone of voice..... All that req. now of the viewer/DIYer is focus, the same studied calm, and a bit of courage. You didn't make a judgment on the condition of the head (with a straightedge....?), but likely that's in Part 2....?!!?
I appreciate the comment, thank you! I generally send heads to a machine shop before install, especially in the case of overheating. Install video can be found here: ruclips.net/video/WRimAlf-A1k/видео.html
I’m about to pull the head off my 2000 Accord and I referenced your video a fair amount while taking it apart. Probably watching your other video after I know if I need a new head or not. Thank you so much!
Thank you so much for this video. I can't thank you enough! I did a lot of research before replacing all my gaskets. Your video hit all the key points I need to validate so I may also have a successful
This is one of the best head gasket removal video out there. Thanks to Big Dog50001 Automotive!! You make it look like easy sir!! Very methodical. BTW - recently I did replace Valve cover gasket on my 2006 Accord - guilty as charged - I did use RTV all around :( Will take care of it next time.
@@BigDog50001 , Is it required to replace intake manifold gaskets every time the assembly is removed? I had to remove it in J series V6 engine on 2006 Honda accord Ex when I needed to replace valve cover gaskets. Thanks in advance for your answer
Professional. going to use it for D16Y8 Engine. having overheat problem, hope that after the change for other "CH" it will fix it up. thank you for this videos!
Great video, used this to replace mine. Funny thing is that I got an exhaust manifold crack in the same exact place as you... which is crazy. I believe it broke when I was taking off the exhaust manifold bottom bolt, the torque was really straining on everything.
Very good video. Only problem was even after draining radiator I still had coolant in the block when I removed so made a little extra work for me. Wondering if maybe I missed something or possibly had a air lock
This guide is how to remove the head and what you intend to replace, mainly head gasket. Do you inspect the flatness of the surface where the head gasket goes/lies on top of for every removal of do you just change the gasket and that's it. I noticed an oil spill on front surface of block beneath the head gasket line. While driving I experienced a short (not even a second long) acceleration stutter in 1st gear and a popping sound coming from front/right-ish side (left-side steering wheel car). Drove for another 5 minutes to come home and everything was fine and just out of curiosity popped the hood and the fresh smelling oil was about to be seen. Should i just drive it and see what happens, ie. can i do more damage to engine (valves etc.) or is that a sign sth is damaged? Is it normal the front side of engine block/head area is oily? PS: D14A4 owner and lately drive well over 3k rpm because slow/underpowered/fun... Thanks!
I've been following your video step by step. It's been very helpful. Thank you so much. Everything that needs to be off to pull the head is done except the intake manifold. I'm having trouble with the bolts. I even took out the fuel rail and injectors to get better access to them. They're not really rusted or anything, just super torqued down I guess. I don't have any power tools, all I have is hand tools. No torch to heat them up either. Tried a breaker bar but it started to strip one of the nuts so I quit. This will be the 3rd night that I've soaked them in PB Blaster. Do you have any suggestions or tricks to getting them out with just hand tools? I was on a roll and now I'm being held up by these stubborn bolts. Please help. PS Mine did have the extra bracket to the bottom left of the exhaust manifold but when I took the bolt off the bracket was broken. Probably why yours wasn't there.
I believe you are talking about the nuts that hold the intake manifold to the head. Sounds like the nuts are seized to the threads and the stud threads are probably seized inside the head. There is not much room in there but I would try to get a good 6 point socket on them (that is what I did in this video). Impact helps on seized fasteners also, so GENTLY tapping down on the sides of the nuts with a small punch and hammer might help loosen bond between nut and stud (avoid hitting threads of course). Lots of PB Blaster doesn't hurt. You may need to pull the head off with the intake attached and work on them outside of the vehicle. Worst case scenario is the nuts are cut off and intake removed from head and then the studs would need to be removed and replaced (might need a machine shop to help with that). Good luck and thanks for the comment!
@@BigDog50001 Sorry I keep pestering you, but I trust your input most. So I got the head off but I'm a bit concerned. The gasket looked to be in perfect condition, still had the blue paint on most of it, no chips, cracks, etc. But the intake manifold was ate up! Practically crumbled. Plus the spark plug well o rings were badly damaged and oil was leaking on the valve cover. (From the pressure caused by faulty PVC maybe?) Could this have caused similar symptoms to a head gasket leak? I rented a carbon tester for the coolant system prior to disassembling and it was positive for gases in my coolant. The only other symptoms I had was leaking coolant, right under the motor, and after about 30 mins of driving, my coolant would be boiling in the reservoir tank. Of course, I changed the thermostat and radiator cap first, but it still continued. I just got it payed off and I'm thinking they changed the head gasket prior to selling because it looks pretty fresh, but failed to replace PVC and manifold gaskets. I'm worried about a possible crack in the block or head. Never ran it in the red zone, but who knows what the previous owner did. I'm really hoping it's just the manifold gasket and PVC that was causing the problem. There are no machine shops in my area to check it or resurface. I'm a single mother and any advice to help me fix this car would be much appreciated.
@@gypsychristo6727 From what you describe it sounds like a bad head gasket. The intake manifold gaskets are paper/fiber type so it is common for them to come out in pieces. Best to have the head checked but if you can't, well then you can't. I would install new gaskets (head, intake, exhaust), new oil seals for the spark plug tubes and a new valve cover gasket. Here is a link to the installation of this head if you didn't see it already. ruclips.net/video/WRimAlf-A1k/видео.html
@@BigDog50001 After cleaning the head, I found a deep gouge on the gasket surface. Looks like some idiot tried to take the peg out with a screwdriver and slipped. That's probably why the old gasket looks fairly new but still failed. Theres also horrible looking marks on the sides of the peg too, like plier marks. Idk if that matters tho. I filed down the nick that was sticking upwards, now its just a small pit that I can fit my fingernail in, but it's as wide as the tip of a screwdriver. That's where most the crud was too. Gonna try copper spray to help fill it. Someone else suggested a drop of JB weld to fill it, idk about that tho. But I've got both your vids saved to a playlist I'm using to follow step by step. I wouldn't have tried this without something to watch as a guide. Very thorough.
If the Valve Cover Bolts are broken inside cylinder head (or valve train) and the head is not damaged then you can use broken bolt removal tools to extract the broken piece and then buy new bolts. If the Valve Cover Bolts damaged the head or valve train (like in this video) here are some things that can be done: 1. Time Sert to fix threads 2. See if machine shop can fix threads/damage 3. Replace broken part if on valve train (if possible) 4. Replace head with used unit and have it machined at machine shop or buy a used head already machined from shop
So my d16y8 intake manifold appears to be way different. I can't really seem to get it pushed back far enough after removing all the nuts (and the terrible bracket that wasn't on yours)
So , I have a 2000 honda civic dx SOHC . A spark plug broke off into the head, tried to use a extractor and that broke off also. I am in the middle of removing the head to get the broken pieces out. Do I need to removing the valve train fasteners?
Big Dog, Your video was invaluable. Because of it I was able to replace the faulty head gasket. Thank you. But, there is a potential problem that I've created. At minute 52:17 on this video you show a rubber piece that fell of the cover you just removed. When I put the parts back on I neglected to include that part on the cover. My question: How serious is the absence of that piece. Should I go back in and remove the appropriate parts in order to reinstall it. Or will the engine run okay without it. Once again thank you for your guidance. Bart
It seals off the timing belt area so dirt, oil and debris do not get in there. It should run fine but it may shorten the life of the timing belt. I would probably go in and reinstall it if it were my car. Thanks for the comment!
I’m looking for a good head gasket that will seal better than the mls since my head has two small pitted spots where I believe it is leaking. Do you know of any good composite gaskets?
Thinking about trying to replace the one on my girlfriends 99 civic. Total side issue I have already replaced many sensors on it it does not like to start once warm ask like it’s flooded if you hold down the Excelerator too wide open and let it clear out it will start any idea what might cause one of these to pump too much fuel into the engine and
Without seeing vehicle I am just guessing, but I would look at Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT) readings, Oxygen Sensor (O2) readings as well as MAP sensor readings. The engine computer uses all of the those to adjust fuel delivery. Aftermarket sensors don't play well with Hondas sometimes too.
Do you think it's better to get a remanufactured cylinder head from eBay and get that installed or going to get a replacement motor from the junkyard? It would be about the same price $300 just for the motor or the cylinder head either one, but I want to know your opinion thanks
Great video big dawg, hey i need your input. I have a 1992 Honda Accord and was replacing the Fuel filter the other day and i unplugged the throttle position sensor connector to kind of get it out my way for the job and when i finished i went to put it back on and it slides all the way on it and stays, but it does not have that little "snap" sound it makes when you connect it. If i grab the connector, it just slides right off the TPS with me having to depress the Tab to get it off. But it does not look broken whatsoever, i looked at it for like 45 minutes. Any suggestions? Thanks!
Got a problem. Like an idiot I took off the distributor and didn’t mark it at all. I didn’t turn the 1st piston to top dead center either. I am still working on the car and trying to replace the pistons and rods without removing the engine from the car. Will timing be a problem when I put the car back together?
I can't see what work has been done but it could be a problem. When reinstalling the distributor, I would position it right in the center (probably have to time it later). I would avoid turning the crank and cam independently if the timing belt is removed.
do the heads on these engines wape easy? Im going to be doing this on my 2000 Civic EX but a friend of mine thinks the head will have to be resurfaced.
Hi, I'm doing this job right now. I followed your lead and took the belt off of the cam sprocket without removing lower timing cover. Gotta admit, I'm a little nervous. It is a lot quicker like you said, but is there any way that belt can come off of the crank sprocket and mess up the timing? I for sure do not want that to happen. The engine I'm working on is a 2000 VTEC - basically the same thing as what you have. Please reply, thanks...
It is a tight fit on crank so it usually will not move (especially if you keep some tension on it like I did). After reinstalling belt make sure marks are still lined up on top and bottom. Then be sure to turn engine over by hand multiple times (in correct direction) after reinstalling belt and verify timing marks are still lined up (of course stop if you feel anything hitting inside engine). Worst case scenario is timing belt jumps a tooth and you should see that after hand cranking. Then you would have to remove lower timing cover and remove belt and reset timing belt the normal way.
If only we're on the same country, i will take you my 2001 honda city type Z to fix. But unfortunately, we're both on the other side of the planet. Anyway, my problem is i found out recently white smoke coming out from the manifold cover and notice some oil wetness around the cylinder head. I assume i need a cylinder head gasket and valve cover gasket replacement already. Is my thinking correct?
I'm trying to diagnose a misfire issue I have been having on my 1998 Honda Civic where I change the engine and still had a misfire code when I ran it on the code reader at my workplace! any tips on what to do
Well in general you need spark, fuel, timing and compression for a cylinder to run. So you need to do some test to verify what you are missing. This vehicle in the video had a misfire and I did a video on testing the fuel injector to see if it was working: ruclips.net/video/pzeOz-seIQE/видео.html
Big Dog50001 Automotive I will have to take the head off again because I don't have the time due snow outside in my area and I don't have a heated garage
Hey man, I'm thinking of replacing my heads on my vehicle also it's the exact make model and sub model, just mine is a 1999. My vehicle keeps over heating periodically. It only does it when it's idling. When im on the highway it doesn't over heat it stays at normal temp. I've replaced the thermostat, Radiator, Engine Coolant Temp Sensor, Cooling Fan Assembly and also changed out most of the hoses. The only thing I haven't touched is the water pump. I've done a Compression test and also done a block test both came negative. Any suggestions what u think it is? I would really appreciate it if you can get back to me man. I also just subscribed 💯 keep up the vids on this vehicle
Angel Garcia If the vehicle overheated there is a very good chance the head gasket was damaged. It doesn't take much to do it on these Civics. That being said, a typical blown head gasket on these will overheat on the highway. I would first make sure the cooling temp switch and fans are operating properly. Aftermarket switches and air in cooling system can cause overheating at idle.
Hey man thanks a lot I really appreciate the reply. Another thing that I haven't done is bleed the coolant. And all the parts that I buy are from AutoZone in which have lifetime warranty. So you wouldn't recommend changing out the water pump since it's only thing I haven't touched?
Hi @@AngelGarcia-iq7sp, bleed the air from the cooling system first. That's the most common reason for overheated 4 cylinder Hondas at idle. The bleeder screw is located right on the thermostat housing, and looks like a brake bleeder nipple, but is bigger, normally a 12 mm wrench size. Cheers from Indonesia.
Hey boss, I'm in the middle of this job, and can't seem to locate the bolt holding the intake manifold in, you mentioned that it was on the bottom, but I haven't been able to find it... Any pointers would be appreciated.
There is an angled bracket underneath the intake on most of the older Civics that holds the intake on. The bracket is held on with two bolts, there should be one bolt that goes straight up towards throttle (on a D16Y7 engine) and one bolt that goes towards front of vehicle (other engine configurations are similar but sometimes both bolts go towards front of vehicle). If the vehicle has ever been worked on before, this bracket might be missing.
Big Dog50001 Automotive thank you, I removed the bolts before watching this video. So hopefully I didn't do any damage when I take it in to a machine shop.... What do you mean by tweaked the head? Can it be fixed at a machine shop?
Twisting it basically. It can be fixed at a machine shop and made flat again up to a certain point (specs by Honda), after that the machine shop would have to take too much metal off and the head would be out of spec and not work.
I had a question...I have been helping out a friend with a 97 honda civic. The head gasket is about to go, the car has been heating up very fast. The thermostat for some reason is not letting water through, so I replaced it thinking it might have already worn out. The fans are not starting and the coolant in the radiator is boiling over. I cant really get a feel if its a clogged radiator, a faulty thermostat from the auto parts places, or its all just symtoms of the head gasket itself just causing all the issues at once. Im trying to narrow it down. Any suggestions where I should go with this? I havent worked on too many hondas.
reaper78541 Honda’s are finicky about aftermarket thermostats and cooling fan switches (I have a video on the switch btw). They are not forgiving if they have overheated at all, many times that results in a blown head gasket.
Figured as much. I guess there's no choice but to do the head gasket replacement. Thank you for taking the time. I was hoping to avoid the inevitable I guess.
@@BigDog50001 Exactly what I was looking for too, thanks. Straight to the point, easy break downs, awesome tips/tricks, and you do it very professionally. I'm confident I can do it myself after watching your vids. Your channel is a life saver.
Hello, Mr. I have a mechanical question - I have a Honda Accord and recently suffer and broken timing. I was able to re-do the timing belt job and discover I have no compression in cylinders two, car shakes a lot, a lot I was told I needed to remove the cylinder head and sent it to the machine shop for resurfacing. Is this true??? If is needed??? Note Cylinder 1,(180 ), 2,( 0 ), 03( 180 ), 4(180 ).
Hondas have interference engines, so if the vehicle broke a timing belt there is a good chance the pistons made contact with some of the valves and did some damage (due to the engine running out of time). If this happened, the head would have to be pulled and the valves fixed (best done by a good machine shop). No/low compression in a cylinder means it will not ignite the air/fuel mixture and will misfire on that cylinder (rough running). A leak down test can sometimes show which valves are the issue (intake or exhaust). I showed a short clip of me doing a leak down test near the end of in my Fuel Injector Testing video: ruclips.net/video/pzeOz-seIQE/видео.html
Thank you for getting back to me in such short time. I watched the entire clip very helpful in understanding which steps to take. As far as the leak down test, I am unable to conduct such testing methods due to I do not own an air compressor or the other tool to do the job. I am just gonna take the head off and send it to a machine shop and let them do their work. After the head comes back from the machine shop do I have to adjust the valves???
kelly rickert I listed some of the major tools in description and showed what I could during filming, but on a large job like this it’s just too difficult. Filming alone adds so much time to a job already.
I can’t find the intake bracket to save my life. But the intake isn’t coming off the studs. There’s only a little play after removing all 7 nuts. Where is that dang thing?
I think I paid about $150 for head bolts and news gaskets and seals but I don't remember for sure because I changed out some other parts too while I was in there.
is anyone where can find automatic transmission filter to change because im try to find it and can someone who tell me where that was automatic transmission filter
You can do it your way. Just out of curiosity, when are you supposed to remove them? I should add, the head was machined so they had to come out. But seeing as you know it all I'm sure you took that into account.
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what I liked about your video is that... you got straight to the point, no loud music to drown your voice, and no wanna be comedian, you gave me the exact information that I needed.
johne tada Thank you for the comment.
I enjoyed that as well I am going to attempt to replace my head gasket today that is why I am here lol
@@JaRa911 how'd it go?
@@dw4940 I rear ended somebody a couple days after this comment!! The car wasn’t totaled but I let go of it for free 8 years was enough in a civic
@@JaRa911helluva update 💀
In this video, I did not remove the timing belt from the vehicle like the Honda manual tells you to. I bought this from someone who did not take care of it for a long time (so the car was mine at the time I filmed this) and I wanted to get it running as quickly and as cheaply as possible so I used a shortcut for the timing belt. If this job was for someone else, then I would have removed the entire timing belt properly and recommended that a brand new timing belt, new pulley, new water pump and new belts be properly installed after the head was repaired/replaced.
If you want to give a thumbs down for this, by all means go ahead, I understand.
P.S. It has been well over a year since I filmed this and I still own this car and it being driven every single day without issue (one of these days I will go ahead and replace the timing belt components). This is the car I loan people when they bring me their vehicle for repair and they do not have a vehicle to drive while I am fixing their car.
To affirm that that trick, though risky, can work; I too have slipped my timing belt exactly as you did a coupletimes now and had absolutely no problems. (The reason once wasnt enough was because i didnt go far enough inside the engine to fix ALL of the problems....mine was previously owned by a teenager with no clue how to work a manual transmission.
VERY THOROUGH AND DETAILED vid. Well lit with good narration. I like it.
I opened up the gasket cover of an '87 Nissan CoStanza to replace the cardboard gasket years ago. Didn't know what I was doing. But at the advice of a mechanic, I'd bought the shop manual when I purchased the car and did minor repairs over the years. Good investment. Saved me a couple grand on repairs. And I learned a few things along the way.
The Nissan? Ran for another four years before I traded it in. No leak since the replacement.
'87, going way back lol! Thanks for the comment!
Excellent ( calm and pleasant ) play by play narration.... was not at all like the days of my youth witnessing my father dance up and down cursing and swearing ! I have done my fair share of head gaskets, but still got a few good pointers of ya - kudos !
I appreciate the comment, thanks!
You must be a pro, or used to work on cars. The skill and knowledge you have is much more than a normal DYI guy. I have just started my own RUclips channel, and I fix cars when there is an issue. So far so good. Owned cars for 15 years, and have done all repairs myself. And I'm a basic knowledge guy compared to you...
I appreciate the comment, thank you.
Hey you gotta start somewhere! It really just takes alot of Time and practice to learn what he knows. You'll get there and Good luck with your RUclips channel!!
hey BigDog50001 your videos are the best, you saved me so so much money on my honda. I felt very confident repairing my own Accord thanks to you.
Thank you, I really appreciate the comment!
Great and very Helpful videos that you make big dog! We need more Honda Technicians here on youtube.
Thank you, I appreciate the comment!
started out by searching for ways to test injector pulse and now I want to see the intake valves on #2 cylinder so here I am lmfao. Subbed!!
Thanks and welcome!
this is the best head gasket video i’ve seen for a 2000 honda civic lx( i have the exact same one) and i’m sure this will help me out. i used distilled water instead of coolant because i was loosing coolant before so that was a waste. i did a flush after because inside my radiator was a mud looking substance so i did a flush and used distilled water to fill it back up and white foams started to pour out the cap while off. my oil looks great, no milky white substance in it. it seems like it’s a small leak so i’ll replace that. it has 187xxx miles so i guess it has done its days. and also i broke off a bolt while replacing the the valve cover gasket so this video relates to my situation very much so. fantastic video!!!! i’ve subscribed and liked this video👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽 way to go
Thanks!
I'm amazed to see people wearing watches when working on cars. He's a better mechanic than I. I would have it covered in oil and scratched to crap.
I wear a G-Shock specifically so I can wear it while working. I have beat the crap out of them over the last 25 years or so and they still keep going. That being said, I do take it off sometimes if I feel it would be unsafe to wear it or if I think it might get caught on something. Thanks for the input!
Thanks bro one of the best videos I’ve seen on Honda engine work! Thanks a lot 👍🏼
Thanks! I appreciate the comment!
Multiple THUMBS UP to this video/tutorial! Superb! Very calm tone of voice..... All that req. now of the viewer/DIYer is focus, the same studied calm, and a bit of courage. You didn't make a judgment on the condition of the head (with a straightedge....?), but likely that's in Part 2....?!!?
I appreciate the comment, thank you! I generally send heads to a machine shop before install, especially in the case of overheating. Install video can be found here: ruclips.net/video/WRimAlf-A1k/видео.html
I’m about to pull the head off my 2000 Accord and I referenced your video a fair amount while taking it apart. Probably watching your other video after I know if I need a new head or not. Thank you so much!
Thanks for the comment!
Great detail on everything. Really do appreciate you taking the time to explain all.
I appreciate the comment, thanks!
Great job..I used to work on these..bought one to screw around with..this was a great fresher..I used to slide the timing belt off too..nice!
Thank you, I appreciate the comment!
Really well explained, thank you very much as I attempt to do this for the first time soon.
I appreciate the comment, thanks!
Thank you so much for this video. I can't thank you enough! I did a lot of research before replacing all my gaskets. Your video hit all the key points I need to validate so I may also have a successful
I appreciate the comment, thank you!
Will the head gasket make the car overheat if it's bad
@@chewy3707 Yes it can.
Really liked your video good clear camera angles you did a really good job thanks.
Thank you very much!
Thank you Big Dog, I appreciate you!
I appreciate the comment, thanks!
This is one of the best head gasket removal video out there. Thanks to Big Dog50001 Automotive!! You make it look like easy sir!! Very methodical. BTW - recently I did replace Valve cover gasket on my 2006 Accord - guilty as charged - I did use RTV all around :( Will take care of it next time.
Thanks 👍!
@@BigDog50001 , Is it required to replace intake manifold gaskets every time the assembly is removed? I had to remove it in J series V6 engine on 2006 Honda accord Ex when I needed to replace valve cover gaskets. Thanks in advance for your answer
Luckily found this channel. Thank you Sir for this very informative tutorial im not mechanics but definitely i will learn.
Thanks for the comment 👍!
Professional.
going to use it for D16Y8 Engine.
having overheat problem, hope that after the change for other "CH" it will fix it up.
thank you for this videos!
Thanks for the comment!
You are one skilled DIY. Thanks for a great video.
Appreciate the comment, thanks!
Thx bro, I find the most value part of the video to be towards the end with the parts list.
Thank you, glad it helped!
Want to see the install on this Civic? ruclips.net/video/WRimAlf-A1k/видео.html
Great video, used this to replace mine. Funny thing is that I got an exhaust manifold crack in the same exact place as you... which is crazy. I believe it broke when I was taking off the exhaust manifold bottom bolt, the torque was really straining on everything.
It is very common for the manifold to crack in that area on these. Thanks for the comment!
This guy knows his stuff!
kelly rickert Thank you, I appreciate the comment!
Doesn't the head usually warp? If so can you have some kind of machine shop fix it?
Looking forward to it going back together! Nice work Dave!
Thanks Mike! Hey what makes you think there will be another video on this vehicle?? ;)
Tink tink, don't drop the bolt...son of a. I dropped a few haha. Magnets are my best friend.
Very good video. Only problem was even after draining radiator I still had coolant in the block when I removed so made a little extra work for me. Wondering if maybe I missed something or possibly had a air lock
👍
Feilong jiangli successfully researched and developed cylinder head cover in 1988 and has a production history of 30 years.
Was hoping for bolt and nut size...
Im half way through the video and im where I am on the car.... thanks, now I know im doing it right lol
Hopefully it helped, thanks for the comment!
Thank you very much, i will do the same to my honda. Only head gasket change!
Very informative in depth video. Thanks and Happy New Year
Thank you, Happy New Year to you too!
Nice work very thorough. Seems like a awesome tech
Thank you for the comment, I appreciate it!
This guide is how to remove the head and what you intend to replace, mainly head gasket. Do you inspect the flatness of the surface where the head gasket goes/lies on top of for every removal of do you just change the gasket and that's it. I noticed an oil spill on front surface of block beneath the head gasket line. While driving I experienced a short (not even a second long) acceleration stutter in 1st gear and a popping sound coming from front/right-ish side (left-side steering wheel car). Drove for another 5 minutes to come home and everything was fine and just out of curiosity popped the hood and the fresh smelling oil was about to be seen.
Should i just drive it and see what happens, ie. can i do more damage to engine (valves etc.) or is that a sign sth is damaged? Is it normal the front side of engine block/head area is oily?
PS: D14A4 owner and lately drive well over 3k rpm because slow/underpowered/fun...
Thanks!
good video very thorough
I appreciate the comment, thanks!
Thank you for the help
You bet, thanks for the comment!
Damm bro u make working on cars like a walk in the park where did u learn how long have u been doing repairs
Oh for a little while now lol, thanks for the comment!
I've been following your video step by step. It's been very helpful. Thank you so much. Everything that needs to be off to pull the head is done except the intake manifold. I'm having trouble with the bolts. I even took out the fuel rail and injectors to get better access to them. They're not really rusted or anything, just super torqued down I guess. I don't have any power tools, all I have is hand tools. No torch to heat them up either. Tried a breaker bar but it started to strip one of the nuts so I quit. This will be the 3rd night that I've soaked them in PB Blaster. Do you have any suggestions or tricks to getting them out with just hand tools? I was on a roll and now I'm being held up by these stubborn bolts. Please help.
PS Mine did have the extra bracket to the bottom left of the exhaust manifold but when I took the bolt off the bracket was broken. Probably why yours wasn't there.
I believe you are talking about the nuts that hold the intake manifold to the head. Sounds like the nuts are seized to the threads and the stud threads are probably seized inside the head. There is not much room in there but I would try to get a good 6 point socket on them (that is what I did in this video). Impact helps on seized fasteners also, so GENTLY tapping down on the sides of the nuts with a small punch and hammer might help loosen bond between nut and stud (avoid hitting threads of course). Lots of PB Blaster doesn't hurt. You may need to pull the head off with the intake attached and work on them outside of the vehicle. Worst case scenario is the nuts are cut off and intake removed from head and then the studs would need to be removed and replaced (might need a machine shop to help with that). Good luck and thanks for the comment!
@@gypsychristo6727 Good to hear you got them out. P.S. The PCV is really easy to get to when the head is off ;)
@@BigDog50001 Sorry I keep pestering you, but I trust your input most.
So I got the head off but I'm a bit concerned. The gasket looked to be in perfect condition, still had the blue paint on most of it, no chips, cracks, etc. But the intake manifold was ate up! Practically crumbled. Plus the spark plug well o rings were badly damaged and oil was leaking on the valve cover. (From the pressure caused by faulty PVC maybe?) Could this have caused similar symptoms to a head gasket leak? I rented a carbon tester for the coolant system prior to disassembling and it was positive for gases in my coolant. The only other symptoms I had was leaking coolant, right under the motor, and after about 30 mins of driving, my coolant would be boiling in the reservoir tank. Of course, I changed the thermostat and radiator cap first, but it still continued. I just got it payed off and I'm thinking they changed the head gasket prior to selling because it looks pretty fresh, but failed to replace PVC and manifold gaskets. I'm worried about a possible crack in the block or head. Never ran it in the red zone, but who knows what the previous owner did. I'm really hoping it's just the manifold gasket and PVC that was causing the problem. There are no machine shops in my area to check it or resurface. I'm a single mother and any advice to help me fix this car would be much appreciated.
@@gypsychristo6727 From what you describe it sounds like a bad head gasket. The intake manifold gaskets are paper/fiber type so it is common for them to come out in pieces. Best to have the head checked but if you can't, well then you can't. I would install new gaskets (head, intake, exhaust), new oil seals for the spark plug tubes and a new valve cover gasket. Here is a link to the installation of this head if you didn't see it already. ruclips.net/video/WRimAlf-A1k/видео.html
@@BigDog50001 After cleaning the head, I found a deep gouge on the gasket surface. Looks like some idiot tried to take the peg out with a screwdriver and slipped. That's probably why the old gasket looks fairly new but still failed. Theres also horrible looking marks on the sides of the peg too, like plier marks. Idk if that matters tho.
I filed down the nick that was sticking upwards, now its just a small pit that I can fit my fingernail in, but it's as wide as the tip of a screwdriver. That's where most the crud was too. Gonna try copper spray to help fill it. Someone else suggested a drop of JB weld to fill it, idk about that tho. But I've got both your vids saved to a playlist I'm using to follow step by step. I wouldn't have tried this without something to watch as a guide. Very thorough.
Any solution to the broken head gasket bolts? I have the same issue with 2 of them -_-
If the Valve Cover Bolts are broken inside cylinder head (or valve train) and the head is not damaged then you can use broken bolt removal tools to extract the broken piece and then buy new bolts.
If the Valve Cover Bolts damaged the head or valve train (like in this video) here are some things that can be done:
1. Time Sert to fix threads
2. See if machine shop can fix threads/damage
3. Replace broken part if on valve train (if possible)
4. Replace head with used unit and have it machined at machine shop or buy a used head already machined from shop
1 spark plug is jammed, it might be crossthreaded I don't really know. Does it need to be removed before head can be taken off?
So my d16y8 intake manifold appears to be way different. I can't really seem to get it pushed back far enough after removing all the nuts (and the terrible bracket that wasn't on yours)
Nice video I just subscribed.
Thanks JIm! You have a great channel yourself, keep up the good work! Dave
Thank you Dave
So , I have a 2000 honda civic dx SOHC . A spark plug broke off into the head, tried to use a extractor and that broke off also. I am in the middle of removing the head to get the broken pieces out.
Do I need to removing the valve train fasteners?
Big Dog,
Your video was invaluable. Because of it I was able to replace the faulty head gasket. Thank you. But, there is a potential problem that I've created. At minute 52:17 on this video you show a rubber piece that fell of the cover you just removed. When I put the parts back on I neglected to include that part on the cover. My question: How serious is the absence of that piece. Should I go back in and remove the appropriate parts in order to reinstall it. Or will the engine run okay without it.
Once again thank you for your guidance.
Bart
It seals off the timing belt area so dirt, oil and debris do not get in there. It should run fine but it may shorten the life of the timing belt. I would probably go in and reinstall it if it were my car. Thanks for the comment!
@@BigDog50001 Thank you for your response. Well, now I know what I'll be doing this weekend. Once again, thanks.
I’m looking for a good head gasket that will seal better than the mls since my head has two small pitted spots where I believe it is leaking. Do you know of any good composite gaskets?
May I know the reason for such replacement? Was it mentioned in this video?
new subbie, your awesome af man
I appreciate the comment, thank you!
@@BigDog50001 did you make that yourself at 44:12?
Thinking about trying to replace the one on my girlfriends 99 civic. Total side issue I have already replaced many sensors on it it does not like to start once warm ask like it’s flooded if you hold down the Excelerator too wide open and let it clear out it will start any idea what might cause one of these to pump too much fuel into the engine and
Without seeing vehicle I am just guessing, but I would look at Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT) readings, Oxygen Sensor (O2) readings as well as MAP sensor readings. The engine computer uses all of the those to adjust fuel delivery. Aftermarket sensors don't play well with Hondas sometimes too.
I'm probably about to do this on my d16y8. Where should I purchase the parts?
Big Dog Sir,did you use gasket shellac on the head gasket?thanks and God bless.
I did not use anything on the head gasket for install. I have a video on the install of the head.
Do you think it's better to get a remanufactured cylinder head from eBay and get that installed or going to get a replacement motor from the junkyard? It would be about the same price $300 just for the motor or the cylinder head either one, but I want to know your opinion thanks
If the bottom half is ok then at this age I prefer to get a rebuilt head (from a good machinist).
Great video big dawg, hey i need your input. I have a 1992 Honda Accord and was replacing the Fuel filter the other day and i unplugged the throttle position sensor connector to kind of get it out my way for the job and when i finished i went to put it back on and it slides all the way on it and stays, but it does not have that little "snap" sound it makes when you connect it. If i grab the connector, it just slides right off the TPS with me having to depress the Tab to get it off. But it does not look broken whatsoever, i looked at it for like 45 minutes. Any suggestions? Thanks!
That happens alot on older connectors. If it stays put I would leave it alone, thanks for the comment!
Got a problem. Like an idiot I took off the distributor and didn’t mark it at all. I didn’t turn the 1st piston to top dead center either. I am still working on the car and trying to replace the pistons and rods without removing the engine from the car. Will timing be a problem when I put the car back together?
I can't see what work has been done but it could be a problem. When reinstalling the distributor, I would position it right in the center (probably have to time it later). I would avoid turning the crank and cam independently if the timing belt is removed.
do the heads on these engines wape easy? Im going to be doing this on my 2000 Civic EX but a friend of mine thinks the head will have to be resurfaced.
50/50 on whether there is any issues with the head. It is best to get the head resurfaced though.
Hi, I'm doing this job right now. I followed your lead and took the belt off of the cam sprocket without removing lower timing cover. Gotta admit, I'm a little nervous. It is a lot quicker like you said, but is there any way that belt can come off of the crank sprocket and mess up the timing? I for sure do not want that to happen. The engine I'm working on is a 2000 VTEC - basically the same thing as what you have. Please reply, thanks...
It is a tight fit on crank so it usually will not move (especially if you keep some tension on it like I did). After reinstalling belt make sure marks are still lined up on top and bottom. Then be sure to turn engine over by hand multiple times (in correct direction) after reinstalling belt and verify timing marks are still lined up (of course stop if you feel anything hitting inside engine).
Worst case scenario is timing belt jumps a tooth and you should see that after hand cranking. Then you would have to remove lower timing cover and remove belt and reset timing belt the normal way.
Ok thanks for the info. I think I’m all good but just wanted to be sure. Great videos man, keep ‘em coming...
Merci beaucoup
What if you get brand new head bolts? Is there a curtain order you must put them in?
Yes there is and I did use new bolts. Here is the install video that shows everything: ruclips.net/video/WRimAlf-A1k/видео.html
do you have to drain the coolant or you can do it without draining it?
You should drain the coolant, those are coolant passages in the head.
If only we're on the same country, i will take you my 2001 honda city type Z to fix. But unfortunately, we're both on the other side of the planet. Anyway, my problem is i found out recently white smoke coming out from the manifold cover and notice some oil wetness around the cylinder head. I assume i need a cylinder head gasket and valve cover gasket replacement already. Is my thinking correct?
It sounds like you are on the right path.
Great video !
Thanks!
I'm trying to diagnose a misfire issue I have been having on my 1998 Honda Civic where I change the engine and still had a misfire code when I ran it on the code reader at my workplace! any tips on what to do
Well in general you need spark, fuel, timing and compression for a cylinder to run. So you need to do some test to verify what you are missing. This vehicle in the video had a misfire and I did a video on testing the fuel injector to see if it was working: ruclips.net/video/pzeOz-seIQE/видео.html
Big Dog50001 Automotive I will have to take the head off again because I don't have the time due snow outside in my area and I don't have a heated garage
what are the f22b2 engine ignition reelebators
Nice work,
Thank you.
Hey man, I'm thinking of replacing my heads on my vehicle also it's the exact make model and sub model, just mine is a 1999. My vehicle keeps over heating periodically. It only does it when it's idling. When im on the highway it doesn't over heat it stays at normal temp. I've replaced the thermostat, Radiator, Engine Coolant Temp Sensor, Cooling Fan Assembly and also changed out most of the hoses. The only thing I haven't touched is the water pump. I've done a Compression test and also done a block test both came negative. Any suggestions what u think it is? I would really appreciate it if you can get back to me man. I also just subscribed 💯 keep up the vids on this vehicle
Angel Garcia If the vehicle overheated there is a very good chance the head gasket was damaged. It doesn't take much to do it on these Civics. That being said, a typical blown head gasket on these will overheat on the highway. I would first make sure the cooling temp switch and fans are operating properly. Aftermarket switches and air in cooling system can cause overheating at idle.
Hey man thanks a lot I really appreciate the reply. Another thing that I haven't done is bleed the coolant. And all the parts that I buy are from AutoZone in which have lifetime warranty. So you wouldn't recommend changing out the water pump since it's only thing I haven't touched?
Hi @@AngelGarcia-iq7sp, bleed the air from the cooling system first. That's the most common reason for overheated 4 cylinder Hondas at idle. The bleeder screw is located right on the thermostat housing, and looks like a brake bleeder nipple, but is bigger, normally a 12 mm wrench size. Cheers from Indonesia.
Hey boss, I'm in the middle of this job, and can't seem to locate the bolt holding the intake manifold in, you mentioned that it was on the bottom, but I haven't been able to find it... Any pointers would be appreciated.
There is an angled bracket underneath the intake on most of the older Civics that holds the intake on. The bracket is held on with two bolts, there should be one bolt that goes straight up towards throttle (on a D16Y7 engine) and one bolt that goes towards front of vehicle (other engine configurations are similar but sometimes both bolts go towards front of vehicle). If the vehicle has ever been worked on before, this bracket might be missing.
@@BigDog50001 Thank You so much, I'll definitely be checking tomorrow morning, I appreciate you
@@BigDog50001 just finished the job today, it's a super obvious bracket if you're under the car. I appreciate your help
Good to hear you got it done!
Big dog why was the head pulled if you don't mind my asking. Thanks
Head gasket and bad valves, most likely due to poor maintenance over a long period.. It had a pretty consistent cylinder 2 misfire.
So what happens if I removed my head bolts from left to right and not criscrossed like you mentioned? I'm going to take my head to get it resurfaced.
It is possible to tweak the head that way, any issues will probably show up at a good machine shop.
Big Dog50001 Automotive thank you, I removed the bolts before watching this video. So hopefully I didn't do any damage when I take it in to a machine shop.... What do you mean by tweaked the head? Can it be fixed at a machine shop?
Twisting it basically. It can be fixed at a machine shop and made flat again up to a certain point (specs by Honda), after that the machine shop would have to take too much metal off and the head would be out of spec and not work.
Big Dog50001 Automotive Gotcha.... Thanks for that info Big Dog 50001 Automotive.
I had a question...I have been helping out a friend with a 97 honda civic. The head gasket is about to go, the car has been heating up very fast. The thermostat for some reason is not letting water through, so I replaced it thinking it might have already worn out. The fans are not starting and the coolant in the radiator is boiling over. I cant really get a feel if its a clogged radiator, a faulty thermostat from the auto parts places, or its all just symtoms of the head gasket itself just causing all the issues at once. Im trying to narrow it down. Any suggestions where I should go with this? I havent worked on too many hondas.
reaper78541 Honda’s are finicky about aftermarket thermostats and cooling fan switches (I have a video on the switch btw). They are not forgiving if they have overheated at all, many times that results in a blown head gasket.
Figured as much. I guess there's no choice but to do the head gasket replacement. Thank you for taking the time. I was hoping to avoid the inevitable I guess.
thank you
Glad it helped!
Hello Mr. I am curious what will be the cost for such job?
$1,000-$1,500 or even more depending on labor rates.
Just pulled money just wanna know the torque specs for reinstall
Here is a link to the installation video for this vehicle (the specs are in the video). ruclips.net/video/WRimAlf-A1k/видео.html
@@BigDog50001 Exactly what I was looking for too, thanks. Straight to the point, easy break downs, awesome tips/tricks, and you do it very professionally. I'm confident I can do it myself after watching your vids. Your channel is a life saver.
Hello, Mr. I have a mechanical question - I have a Honda Accord and recently suffer and broken timing. I was able to re-do the timing belt job and discover I have no compression in cylinders two, car shakes a lot, a lot I was told I needed to remove the cylinder head and sent it to the machine shop for resurfacing. Is this true??? If is needed??? Note Cylinder 1,(180 ), 2,( 0 ), 03( 180 ), 4(180 ).
Hondas have interference engines, so if the vehicle broke a timing belt there is a good chance the pistons made contact with some of the valves and did some damage (due to the engine running out of time). If this happened, the head would have to be pulled and the valves fixed (best done by a good machine shop). No/low compression in a cylinder means it will not ignite the air/fuel mixture and will misfire on that cylinder (rough running). A leak down test can sometimes show which valves are the issue (intake or exhaust). I showed a short clip of me doing a leak down test near the end of in my Fuel Injector Testing video: ruclips.net/video/pzeOz-seIQE/видео.html
Thank you for getting back to me in such short time. I watched the entire clip very helpful in understanding which steps to take. As far as the leak down test, I am unable to conduct such testing methods due to I do not own an air compressor or the other tool to do the job. I am just gonna take the head off and send it to a machine shop and let them do their work. After the head comes back from the machine shop do I have to adjust the valves???
Yes.
Again, Thank you for your time and answering my question.
Would be nice to go through all the tools.
kelly rickert I listed some of the major tools in description and showed what I could during filming, but on a large job like this it’s just too difficult. Filming alone adds so much time to a job already.
I can’t find the intake bracket to save my life. But the intake isn’t coming off the studs. There’s only a little play after removing all 7 nuts. Where is that dang thing?
About how much are all those bolts an gaskets all together
I think I paid about $150 for head bolts and news gaskets and seals but I don't remember for sure because I changed out some other parts too while I was in there.
Big Dog50001 Automotive thanks do you know if the 98 civic d16Y8 head comes off like that too
why lable the spark plugs aren't they all the same?
They are the same. It is not necessary to label them, I only did it in case the engine still had a misfire issue after the repairs.
Any chance this is the ssme for a 98 civic ex? Or close i cant find any vids on it lol
Very similar.
is anyone where can find automatic transmission filter to change because im try to find it and can someone who tell me where that was automatic transmission filter
The ATF filters/strainers on these generation Civics are inside the transmissions and the only ones considered serviceable are ones with CVTs.
What is this engine called
I believe the civic in this video had a D16Y7 engine.
The engine looks similar to 2000 Honda Hr-V.
Wait wasn't that a 2.0 Liter or 2.4 Liter engine? I'm not sure you're thinking of the right engine...🤔🤔
treydot_ 1.6 actually.
Sorry - *Broken Valve Cover bolts***
ill give you a jaguar if you can do some of there vids too??
lol
I'm gonna buy a mint Honda how do I know that it's the head gasket causing the car to overheat that's what the seller is telling me it is
There are tests that can be done, hopefully a reputable shop is the one that diagnosed it.
That timing belt didn't look very Good...😁
It wasn't brand new but it was fine.
@@BigDog50001 I trust your word big dog
I stopped at gotta take the plugs out they stay in the head no need to take them out im done with waistfull.machanics
You can do it your way. Just out of curiosity, when are you supposed to remove them? I should add, the head was machined so they had to come out. But seeing as you know it all I'm sure you took that into account.
Very nice video
Thanks!
Awesome video
Thanks!