Hey, I'm a little late to the party I know, this is a great video though. My 15 has had this code periodically over the past month or so(CEL will flash for a day then off for a day, etc.) I've been driving it but not hard. is there a different code if the passenger side CV has an issue, and is it more work to replace? I'm going to order this part as the code I am getting is the p000d.
I get p000b from time to time. I went 200 miles b4 it came back on, then like 800 miles, came back on, then 100 miles came back on, and now ive gone maybe 1500-2000 miles and it hasnt came back on. Dont quite understand it. But I believe im going to replace this on my passenger side too
I also have a 15. You should replace both driver and passenger just in case and the P000D code is the boost control solenoid (I believe it’s named that) you’ll have to either change that I believe. That’s what I’ll be working on the next couple of weeks
Amazing tutorial! I need to replace the passenger side. it is leaking like crazy and under any type of acceleration, normal or WOT, the car hesitates a ton. I have the ocvs holder and sensor but I am just waiting for the gasket to arrive. Btw, amazing STi hatch! I am never selling mine.
@SSTIHatch.....love my Sti hatchback as well. Im curious how did the passenger side replacement go ? Mine is leaking as well. It looks like just the solenoid can't be replaced and the whole assembly need to be replaced like in this video. Looks like the exhaust manifold needs to be dropped in order to make room .....sucks because I'm looking at mine now and I can bet alot of bolts are going to break especially on the heat shield due to corrosion......how did it go for you ?
nope the only one that failed in this case is the driver's side solenoid. They seem to just fail at random and they're stupid expensive so just replace the ones that are bad.
Awesome video. Do you ever see value over 17/18 on the exhaust side after replacing the part? You mention in the video it had used to go into the 40’s, which mine does. I’m looking to do this in the near future because my numbers aren’t very symmetrical. But, should I be worried about hitting the 40’s as well?
I saw values of over 40+ on the exhaust side while the intake side was about half that value while driving. At idle they should be symmetrical at basically 0. After I replaced the oil control valve that the values were spot on identical and the car drives MUCH better now. The values will go up and down and that is okay as long as it symmetrical.
Greate video! My AVCS from the driver side is sweating oil and I want to replace it, sorry in advance for my ignorance, but do I need to drain the oil from the car before removing the avcs?
What would a P0021 code be? I can’t seem to find any answers, or people give me answers for other codes like you said in the beginning of your video. I have a feeling that something is clogged, I just don’t know where to begin.
I periodically get a p000b on my 2016. Its crazy, it first would go 100-200 miles before coming back on. Then I went 800 miles or so the next time. Then 100. And now its been about 1500-2000 miles and havent seen it pop back up. However, during this process I did swap out the camshaft sensor connected to this, and I did notice an oil leak around this solenoid. Pretty sure its from the header burning any seals in that area. I have the part, and gaskets, just waiting to find time on a lift to swap it out and hopefully i'll never see the code again! And knock on wood its not a camphaser/ECM issue like I have read in forums :(
@@angelotorres8051 so far so good, I just changed the entire solenoid/gasket for it, and no code in roughly 2k miles, car seems to run smoother and stronger because of it too
Firsy off great video! Though i came to this video to figure out the torque spec for the screws holding on the ocv assembly. Did you really just leave them hand tight? I have a rather accurate torque wrench and was curious to get a little guidance here or is hand tight good enough
Glad you liked it. Yes legit hand right using a tiny 1/4” ratchet is all that is needed. I have found that my hand tight with a small ratchet comes in roughly at 7-10 ft lbs which is precisely what the torque needed for the OCV bolts are. Most torque wrenches unless they’re calibrated for such low torque values are often grossly inaccurate at those tiny values which is why I forgo using a torque wrench for something as simple as this valve. Your call but if you insist on a torque value then I’d say about 7-8ft lbs. not the official number but it would be sure as heck close to it since it is a M6 bolt.
@@piercedasian thank you for the detailed reply! Yea I found the torque spec somewhere to be 7.5 which I'd definitely say is hand tight with the socket wrench :) I was leaking oil pretty bad out of mine which is what necessitated the replacement:)
P000D is the code for the same valve, the driverside exhaust (underside of engine) There is a cheaper way to replace this with OEM parts, instead of 10917AA070, use 10921AA020. This will replace the solenoid valve itself, and not the valve + holder. you save a good bit of money, like 100$ vs 240$. I just did this for P000D and works perfectly.
@@503pilychvz8 they did the same exact thing on mine 9/2022, only the flush. Today like 2K later the car threw p0024. Only issue for me is, on 9/22 I had warranty , now I don’t ..
@@speed2k5 it is the drivers side. It happened on mine first drive after being parked for 8 days. Ordered a new one from Subaru and the next day the solenoid unstuck it’s self and it’s been fine since lol
@@piercedasian I mean its the bolt that goes into the engine so changing the part wouldnt make a difference lol i think maybe drilling it out huh? Thanks for the info tho cuz i was trying to look for that bolt 😅
@@iBLaCKOuTxZ yikes that is really crappy. you have to be SUPER SUPER careful when drilling into the block to get it out. Drill as tiny of a hole as possible and then use a screw extractor to get it out. This might b a fix for the pro as once you mess up those threads and misalign the hole you're going to get some wicked oil leak issues.
Yes, just did mine. Little tip though: instead of 10917AA070, use 10921AA020. This will replace the solenoid valve itself, and not the valve + holder. you save a good bit of money, like 100$ vs 240$. I just did this for P000D and works perfectly.
Ah good tip for our viewers. This subaru in this video was buddy's car so I wasn't aware that the valve can be purchased separate from the holder. The Suburu parts guy told us it was an assembly that could only be purchased. Not sure if that was the truth but sounds like the parts guy was upselling us.
@@Laborchet Im getting mixed sources saying it's either 10921AA140 or the part number you said for driver side. Are both solenoids different? I know the holders are but what about the solenoids. I'm not sure which part number to order just to replace the driver side Solenoid.
sounds like you've got some wonky issue with camshaft phasing. did you by chance do something like a timing belt or neglect to do regular oil changes? Basically the code indicates that the response from the exhaust "B" cam is not getting the response its expecting so you can try to replace the sensor and see if that resolves your issue. The oil flush the dealer did was to likely address "gumming" or sludging of the cam phaser in the motor.
@@503pilychvz8 did you ever find out what the issue was? Mine is throwing the same code and the internet is saying replace the same part that the guy on this video did although it’s a diff code
My car is throwing this code. Basically same car as in the video however I won't have the parts for a week. Am I able to drive the car or should I park it and wait till the part comes in?
I have year 2006 ej25 and on the bottom, on both sides, in the place you show I have only clean flat surfaces on the block, no valves, but still got p0024, any tips?
This fixed my exact issue. Thanks for the thorough tutorial.
Thanks for the video, helped a lot, but why didn't you replace just the solenoid valve itself without housing? It would be cheaper and less work.
Hey, I'm a little late to the party I know, this is a great video though. My 15 has had this code periodically over the past month or so(CEL will flash for a day then off for a day, etc.) I've been driving it but not hard. is there a different code if the passenger side CV has an issue, and is it more work to replace? I'm going to order this part as the code I am getting is the p000d.
I get p000b from time to time. I went 200 miles b4 it came back on, then like 800 miles, came back on, then 100 miles came back on, and now ive gone maybe 1500-2000 miles and it hasnt came back on. Dont quite understand it. But I believe im going to replace this on my passenger side too
I also have a 15. You should replace both driver and passenger just in case and the P000D code is the boost control solenoid (I believe it’s named that) you’ll have to either change that I believe. That’s what I’ll be working on the next couple of weeks
Amazing tutorial! I need to replace the passenger side. it is leaking like crazy and under any type of acceleration, normal or WOT, the car hesitates a ton. I have the ocvs holder and sensor but I am just waiting for the gasket to arrive. Btw, amazing STi hatch! I am never selling mine.
@SSTIHatch.....love my Sti hatchback as well. Im curious how did the passenger side replacement go ? Mine is leaking as well. It looks like just the solenoid can't be replaced and the whole assembly need to be replaced like in this video. Looks like the exhaust manifold needs to be dropped in order to make room .....sucks because I'm looking at mine now and I can bet alot of bolts are going to break especially on the heat shield due to corrosion......how did it go for you ?
nope the only one that failed in this case is the driver's side solenoid. They seem to just fail at random and they're stupid expensive so just replace the ones that are bad.
I have p0024 and p0014 and I got motor knock do you think my motor is blown or can I fix it by replacing the ocv?
Awesome video. Do you ever see value over 17/18 on the exhaust side after replacing the part?
You mention in the video it had used to go into the 40’s, which mine does. I’m looking to do this in the near future because my numbers aren’t very symmetrical. But, should I be worried about hitting the 40’s as well?
I saw values of over 40+ on the exhaust side while the intake side was about half that value while driving. At idle they should be symmetrical at basically 0. After I replaced the oil control valve that the values were spot on identical and the car drives MUCH better now. The values will go up and down and that is okay as long as it symmetrical.
Greate video! My AVCS from the driver side is sweating oil and I want to replace it, sorry in advance for my ignorance, but do I need to drain the oil from the car before removing the avcs?
What would a P0021 code be? I can’t seem to find any answers, or people give me answers for other codes like you said in the beginning of your video. I have a feeling that something is clogged, I just don’t know where to begin.
I periodically get a p000b on my 2016. Its crazy, it first would go 100-200 miles before coming back on. Then I went 800 miles or so the next time. Then 100. And now its been about 1500-2000 miles and havent seen it pop back up. However, during this process I did swap out the camshaft sensor connected to this, and I did notice an oil leak around this solenoid. Pretty sure its from the header burning any seals in that area. I have the part, and gaskets, just waiting to find time on a lift to swap it out and hopefully i'll never see the code again! And knock on wood its not a camphaser/ECM issue like I have read in forums :(
Did you ever fix it?
@@angelotorres8051 so far so good, I just changed the entire solenoid/gasket for it, and no code in roughly 2k miles, car seems to run smoother and stronger because of it too
@Piercedasian Do you have to drain the oil before doing this replacement?
Follow the video to the T and you won't need to drain anything :). Super easy fix.
Firsy off great video! Though i came to this video to figure out the torque spec for the screws holding on the ocv assembly. Did you really just leave them hand tight? I have a rather accurate torque wrench and was curious to get a little guidance here or is hand tight good enough
Glad you liked it. Yes legit hand right using a tiny 1/4” ratchet is all that is needed. I have found that my hand tight with a small ratchet comes in roughly at 7-10 ft lbs which is precisely what the torque needed for the OCV bolts are. Most torque wrenches unless they’re calibrated for such low torque values are often grossly inaccurate at those tiny values which is why I forgo using a torque wrench for something as simple as this valve. Your call but if you insist on a torque value then I’d say about 7-8ft lbs. not the official number but it would be sure as heck close to it since it is a M6 bolt.
@@piercedasian thank you for the detailed reply! Yea I found the torque spec somewhere to be 7.5 which I'd definitely say is hand tight with the socket wrench :) I was leaking oil pretty bad out of mine which is what necessitated the replacement:)
nice and short to the point video! Is P0024 same as P000D? My bottom left is not changing at the same rate as the bottom right (AVCS exh)
P000D is the code for the same valve, the driverside exhaust (underside of engine) There is a cheaper way to replace this with OEM parts, instead of 10917AA070, use 10921AA020. This will replace the solenoid valve itself, and not the valve + holder. you save a good bit of money, like 100$ vs 240$. I just did this for P000D and works perfectly.
@@Laborchet thank you!
@@Laborchet sr I have the p000d code in my 2016 sti dealer only flushed the oil but the code came again ?
@@503pilychvz8 they did the same exact thing on mine 9/2022, only the flush. Today like 2K later the car threw p0024. Only issue for me is, on 9/22 I had warranty , now I don’t ..
@@speed2k5 remplacement ocv + exh camshaft sensor and ur fine this fix my p000d for the moment
I just got this code. On my Cobb it says “ exhaust cam 2 (LH) system range/perf” I’m guessing I just need to change the drivers side ?
Any update ? I have the same code
@@speed2k5 it is the drivers side. It happened on mine first drive after being parked for 8 days. Ordered a new one from Subaru and the next day the solenoid unstuck it’s self and it’s been fine since lol
Still going to put the new one on just incase and cause I paid for it already though
You got the same part number as the video for like $2xx or another one ?
@@speed2k5 yeah the one I got was 250$ Canadian or something with the gasket to. Gasket was like 10 or something
I ended up stripping one of the bolt that goes onto the oil control valve sensor 🤦🏻♂️ How would i get this out ? Also what bolt is it ?
oh ouch... is an M6 1.0 thread pitch metric screw but you'll need to either drill it out, re-tap it or simply replace the part that is stripped.
@@piercedasian I mean its the bolt that goes into the engine so changing the part wouldnt make a difference lol i think maybe drilling it out huh? Thanks for the info tho cuz i was trying to look for that bolt 😅
@@iBLaCKOuTxZ yikes that is really crappy. you have to be SUPER SUPER careful when drilling into the block to get it out. Drill as tiny of a hole as possible and then use a screw extractor to get it out. This might b a fix for the pro as once you mess up those threads and misalign the hole you're going to get some wicked oil leak issues.
@@piercedasian yeah you might right i might just have someone with experience to do it for tbh !
i got p0018, p0024, and P000D. would i replace the vvt sensor? or this?
I got p000d on mines im try to replace the oil control valve, but its not the same part as the video
I could quite literally kiss you this is exactly the issue I’ve been trying to figure out
I've replaced mine twice and it still leaks like crazy when it's off for a few secs and when it's off it leak through the bolts
replace gasket too
I second this.. gasket replacement will prevent leaking.
Ive had a similar issue of it leaking through the bolts even with a brand new gasket.. gonna try it again and replace solenoid as o ring is shot
Is this the same tutorial as on the 2018+ STI?
I think so. I gotta do mine too
Yes, just did mine. Little tip though: instead of 10917AA070, use 10921AA020. This will replace the solenoid valve itself, and not the valve + holder. you save a good bit of money, like 100$ vs 240$. I just did this for P000D and works perfectly.
The service procedure for the newer STi's is the same.
Ah good tip for our viewers. This subaru in this video was buddy's car so I wasn't aware that the valve can be purchased separate from the holder. The Suburu parts guy told us it was an assembly that could only be purchased. Not sure if that was the truth but sounds like the parts guy was upselling us.
@@Laborchet Im getting mixed sources saying it's either 10921AA140 or the part number you said for driver side. Are both solenoids different? I know the holders are but what about the solenoids. I'm not sure which part number to order just to replace the driver side Solenoid.
I have p000d on My 2016 sti
Dealer only flush they oil but the code came again?
the oil flush rarely resolves these issues and the best thing to do is to replace the part that your check engine code is pointing to.
@@piercedasian What part can be changed next, it would help me a lot to know the part number for my 2016 sti code p000d
sounds like you've got some wonky issue with camshaft phasing. did you by chance do something like a timing belt or neglect to do regular oil changes? Basically the code indicates that the response from the exhaust "B" cam is not getting the response its expecting so you can try to replace the sensor and see if that resolves your issue. The oil flush the dealer did was to likely address "gumming" or sludging of the cam phaser in the motor.
@@503pilychvz8 did you ever find out what the issue was? Mine is throwing the same code and the internet is saying replace the same part that the guy on this video did although it’s a diff code
@@mateopatnongon I remplacement exh cam sensor and both avcs driver side
do you need to drain the oil out to replace this part?
nope.
How much oil would you say comes out? I just changed my oil last night but now need to do this part >.
A dirty or malfunctioning solenoid is usually the cause of this code. Really need to start there first. Great tutorial otherwise
My car is throwing this code. Basically same car as in the video however I won't have the parts for a week. Am I able to drive the car or should I park it and wait till the part comes in?
yep you likely can but it will probably not drive too well. Just don't hammer on the motor and you'll be fine.
I have year 2006 ej25 and on the bottom, on both sides, in the place you show I have only clean flat surfaces on the block, no valves, but still got p0024, any tips?