You really can't be one without being the other. You can't keep paying others to repair things or you'll go broke. A farmer only gets paid when they sell something. (Crops or livestock) I grew up on a farm and know to watch every penny.
Thank you for sharing, and I sympathize with the owner here. This is a real good reason to only purchase new and trusted products like a new verified "clean" tank and hopefully fuel from a trusted source. The cost of service and upkeep of fuel systems on an engine far outweigh the savings from dealing with cheap, compromised holding tank systems and bad fuel. Diesel fuel systems are expensive to fix after damaged through cutting corners. We hope the engines receiving this fuel have not been damaged by now. Like Caterpillar fuel tanks read, "buy clean fuel and keep it clean" sounds like good advice to me.
You're a brother from another mother. I also enjoy taking things apart to try and save them. I learn alot from you and enjoy the content. I keep a rust treatment always handy!
That was so fun to watch. I was rooting for it to work the whole time. I love taking stuff apart like that as well to see if I can fix it first. Great job Josh!
I LOVE THIS KIND OF STUFF!! I can watch these kinds of videos any time of the day. And best of all I love seeing ways to fix things instead of throwing new parts on, save lots of money, and learn something new!! Awesone awesome awesome!! Thanks again for another great video!!
Good job Josh, that inline filter will protect whatever your putting fuel in., but what about the pump because that was your issue in the 1st place..water getting into the pump you need a pre-filter for the inlet side when you add fuel to the tank..or you can go to the truck stop and get or Google stanadyne diesel tank additive it's it works just for this situation keeps water out of the tank
Talk to your local fuel companies. Get a on farm tank for fuel. Have the companies deliver to you. In many cases it’s much cheaper. Just remind that your a farmer when calling. Best of luck!
Gonna change your rank from nurse Josh to surgeon Josh as you diagnosed and operated on that fuel pump giving it a longer life....well done learned a lot
Had to replace our pump recently. Ours was sealed and not serviceable so had to replace the whole unit. Ours, the seals had failed and the switch and motor portions both had corroded terribly. Glad you fixed yours with little cost and I think I’m going to get the same visible filter next time around!
Great video of how to repair a rusty stator and housing. When you had that crescent wrench all I could think of was Jaw's Where gonna need a BIGGER WRENCH LOL. Thanks for sharing.
tip for cleaning motor housings, a Cylinder Hone tool will clean them out nicely and not mess with the magnet alignment. I wouldn't use your best one but everyone has grandad's old one lying around. I was about to say use an structural acrylic adhesive not caulk, but you figured that out. Epoxy is OK, but acrylic has a higher temperature rating and it's what the OEM would have used for glue the magnets. Replacing the bearings would have been nice, maybe next time. Good job on fixing that, you can service most big motors but they don't make them easy.
Josh did you put some good grease into armature bush bearings at both ends.....? That is how I recovered lots of motors too, change brush kit, change armature, change brush holder, reseal , did water proof, ok.....
Nice work Josh. Seems to me that when the water got into the motor, the magnets came loose and the rotor was rubbing against the magnets, making the noise and stopping it. Sure feels nice fixing something yourself and saving a ton of money. Last spring my chainsaw wouldn't run well and I replaces the Card, fuel lines and fuel filter and now it runs great - cost 25.00.
Put the nozzle in the fill hole bung and cycle fuel in tank for 15 minutes and see what your new filter picks up and park the pickup on a side slope so water, debrie get sucked up with sucker pipe. Repeat in a few months after sloshing it around. If to bad, pull tank and steam clean insides and be good as new. Now you know why pilots of small planes check for water so often.
That’s crazy I just had to repair my pump because of that I had to gorilla glue the magnets back to the walls using clamps and it works great now quiet as can be
Hi Josh, great job with the motor... I've had to improvise sanding in a cylinder before, and where you stuck the sandpaper to the socket works. If you leave 4-6 inches extra on the paper, it acts like a flap sander. It gives you a more uniform sanding finish. Also, plumbing supply dealers usually have rolls of mesh sanding material 2½" wide that takes material off fast, but leaves a polished surface.
Unless you keep your metal tank brim full the tank will generate condensation particularly as the nights get cooler. The inline separator will protect your tractors but not negate the source of the problem. A screw closed air inlet would be very beneficial so long as you remember to open it when you fuel up. Regards from Scotland.
Josh, I just heard from a farmer that some Diesel suppliers may be adding Bio-Diesel to their regular fuel and could be causing the issues you're experiencing with the corrosion and water in the tank, algae growth, filters not lasting as long and so on. I just wanted to let ya know, so maybe you could ask your dealer if their supplier is doing this ? Happy Thanksgiving !
"Think outside the box a little bit"... A man after my own heart there, I'm 17mins in now & you're tackling this the way i would have too. Fingers crossed you get the magnets back the right way first time else you can end up with a suction pump to de-fuel the tractors lol!
At the start, that squeal was a sure sign of a bad motor. Consider yourself lucky that the coils didn't overheat and short the windings. It was fun watching you rebuild the pump.
Good stuff Josh. Everyone thinks that if you got equipment its always gonna work. Obviously Not. Clean fuel is definitely a must. Thanks buddy, I'll be more careful about my fuel from now on. Even the simple little things can be very costly if your tractor breaks down. Thanks my friend.
Good video Josh. To help keep that fuel clean, every now and then turn on the pump and just circulate the fuel back into the fuel fill hole. That way it runs through the filter and water separator and helps keep the water and contaminate levels low. Then just clean the filter like you normally would. Good job though. Always worth fixing what you can.
I like the rebuilding part of the motor but one word of advice about Teflon tape that I learned from replumbing my air compressor. It is recommended to use Teflon paste instead of the tape. The theory is that the tape can break off and get stuck in something whereas the paste dissolves. No idea if it is true, but I have had good success with the paste. Thanks for the videos!
Cover the pump up when it rains, or if you wash the truck. Doesn't take much water to get in there, and make it rust inside. For the price you got the tank, and pump for it probably sat outside for awhile.
Does it make me weird to say, that I always keep looking to see how much video is left. I never want them to end, been a fan for a while.......your awesome sir!!
Need to seal the motor to pump case or water will get in again. Although, none of that is what's in the fuel! The tank itself needs cleaned and a strainer installed on the fill. The bushing/bearings need replaced, the armature should not touch the magnet.
Josh One thing you should check is to see where the metal stamping where the shifted if they cut into the insulation on the windings ( that insulation is only a thin layer of lacquer) That will reduce the effectiveness of the windings and could eventually cause the armature to burn out. You might be able to see if those windings are damaged and re-lacquer around the areas. (don't hold your breath that that will fix it though. Good luck)
Nice work. Make sure the tank is vented. Mositure will come from the air in the tank, condense and form drops on the underside of the top, especially if not well vented. That will both rust the top of the tank and drop into the fuel.
Excellent job Stoney! I would have done the same thing you did. Hopefully you put a dab of high speed wheel grease on the ends of the armature shafts. Whooo! MB BAR RANCH
Shipmate, take the pump out on pickup tube wrap brass/copper screen wire on bottom to keep particles out of the plastic gears. You do know that mold will grow in your fuel tank unless treated, it does take some time, try to keep the tank full always prevents condensation accumulation (water). ChiefD
10:26 OK my input, the water in the fuel has killed that front bearing for the drive mechanism. It'll likely be an open race roller that is meant to be lubricated by the diesel fuel & it's not taken kindly to the water/crud mix. You might find if you hose it out with brake cleaner and then diesel it'll come back somewhat but if it's easy to get out, you can go to a bearing factor and they can replace it from the numbers stamped on the side.
I am a new subscriber to your channel I love the music you use on your intro of the video it fits my attitude and way of life. I am not a farmer but your video was educational good to see you try to fix it yourself instead of buying new that is smart and saves money. I am going to enjoy your videos I am sure
A problem we find here in the UK is diesel bug! Clogs filters and pumps. Causes sludge in the bottom of the tank. The higher the water content the worse it is. Especially prevalent in fuel that has been sat in the tank for a long time. You have to clean the tank, keep the tank full (to avoid condensation water build up) with clean fuel.add a fuel treatment.
I would suggest finding a 1 gallon clear glass jug (clean obviously) and pump directly into it, fill er up and leave sit overnight and see if you have any junk or water settled on the bottom. Also, try to find a spot under roof to park to eliminate the possibility that the water is getting in on your end rather than the supplier.
I have a feeling you could rebuild that pump when you take it apart all it need is a good cleaning to get all that rust off after you did that it running like new good job.👍
Nicely done.. Another great vlog.. Glad to see it worked out in the end.. I'm like you fix it first if possible before throwing in the towel and cash on putting in a new one.
The water separator and filter perform different functions. It seems to me that instead of just replacing the filter with the water separator, the separator should have been added to the system between the pump and filter. At least that's the way we have it on boats.
@@StoneyRidgeFarmer Why run the trash through the pump, clean the fuel before the pump. Clean the tank, buy fuel from the same place to keep a check on the quality of your fuel. Maybe I missed it did you lubricate the bearings of the motor and there is no such thing as a{sealed} bearing in that pump you can get some added lubrication to the bearings.Keeping the motor water tight helps too. Checking the voltage to the pump will let you know it is being given enough voltage to live a long life. I see you get a lot of comments of all kinds it maybe worthwile to consider some of them Good luck
I do a lot of stuff like that at my place, Farm Fixed. I got a 100 gallon tank from a friend years ago but never used it, it sat for years unused and unloved. I got tired of filling my tractor and skid steer from 5 gallon cans so i started working on the tank. A little crud inside and slightly rusted from condensation I figure so I got it cleaned out pretty well using Evaporust, ball bearings and fuel. I drove it around in the back of my truck for a few weeks whIle so everything could slosh around well. Once I got it all cleaned out I filled it with 60 gallons with an additive to preserve the fuel. Got a new Goldenrod filter and tried pumping it, hand type pump. It filled the filter but nothing out of the nozzle and the pump was tight and blowing fuel out of the small flapper anti syphon valve on the pump. Got a new flapper valve, no leaks now but still no fuel and the pump was tight. I took the filler hose off and stuck my air nozzle in it to blow it out and this wad of gunk came flying out of the hose. I cleaned the hose out really well and put it back together and it worked like a champ. Evidentially in its’ life with my friend a mud dobber had stuffed the hose with mud, they do that just to piss you off. Moral to the story is keep the filler hose covered so nothing gets inside like mud dobbers. I really enjoyed this video, very useful for the rest of us out here. Not being a financial wizard I need to be careful with my money and not waste it. The Lord takes very good care of me and whenever I really need something I can’t fix I reach in my pocket and I find exactly what I need, like magic pants. How cool is that? Thanks Dad!
I have the same pump, the Fil-Rite are better pumps. I’ve never had any issues with the GPI but it’s not as smooth and doesn’t pump as fast as the Fil-rite. The epoxied magnets came off on my mower starter and made the same noise as your pump. I cleaned up the housing for the starter mower and epoxied the magnets back in, works good again. Witness mark the parts before disassembly. Use a white bucket test first with the filter housing in place but without a filter. Pump into a white bucket to determine if there is any water or crud in a tank. No water or crud, pour it back into the tank then install the filter. Saves wasting a filter right off the bat.
As others have said, filter the fuel separately and after the water separator. The internal filter is much coarser than the separate filter. The water issue is likely to be or have been the tank itsself. Make sure you have removed and resealed all vents, fillers and pump mountings.
How did you know where the heck the magnets went? Good for you dude I pleasantly surprised. Cool even though this is an old video I love it when things work out!! Good stuff! AJ
Never seen all those parts in my fillrite pump I took the other side off first and found the magnetic broke in the middle on one side and was no longer glued to the wall and dragging so I used like 5 clamps different sizes so I can evenly put pressure on the magnet and glued it back to the wall and it sounds quiet and like a band new pump
Hey Josh- just wanted to let you know that you that you just took a step backwards in your tractor fuel filter plugging problem. The two previous tank filters carry a 10 micron rating and your new water separator has a 17 micron rating , meaning it does not filter as well as the 10 micron filter. You should have put that cim tek filter assembly back on after the separator and before the hose. Most modern diesels use a fuel filer that is rated at less than 10 micron ( usually around 4 micron). You will be pumping junk out of your tank for a long time unless you empty it and have it thoroughly cleaned , once you get that stuff in a metal storage tank, it's hard to get it out.
Pampers work well for catching all of the xtra fuel or oil in the case of a filter and oil change. Time for an after-hours Emergency Margarectomy now!!!!
If this second repair doesn’t fix it, toss it an get a different/new tank
Nah just get the tank cleaned and pressure tested for leaks. A new tank would be expensive.
Too cool just a couple of hours and you know that the job got done right woo
I’ve been a industrial maintenance man for 25 years and you do better work than most the guys I’ve worked with. Great job ! 👍
Not only are you a farmer you are a mechanic, awesome job.
You really can't be one without being the other. You can't keep paying others to repair things or you'll go broke. A farmer only gets paid when they sell something. (Crops or livestock) I grew up on a farm and know to watch every penny.
Amen!
Awesome video, good to see you fixing the old stuff with what you have around the farm, just like the old timers.
Great video Josh. Even though I don't have one of those tanks it was very interesting watching you repair the pump. You are quite talented. Enjoyed.
Nice job! Hopefully the repair will last a good long while. Will be watching for a report on how the separator looks after a few pumpings!
I learned something from watching you.
THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR VIDEOS JOSH !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you for sharing, and I sympathize with the owner here. This is a real good reason to only purchase new and trusted products like a new verified "clean" tank and hopefully fuel from a trusted source. The cost of service and upkeep of fuel systems on an engine far outweigh the savings from dealing with cheap, compromised holding tank systems and bad fuel. Diesel fuel systems are expensive to fix after damaged through cutting corners. We hope the engines receiving this fuel have not been damaged by now. Like Caterpillar fuel tanks read, "buy clean fuel and keep it clean" sounds like good advice to me.
You're a brother from another mother. I also enjoy taking things apart to try and save them. I learn alot from you and enjoy the content. I keep a rust treatment always handy!
Adapt and overcome, it usually works. Good job Josh
Adapt and overcome. That would be a good line for a Clint Eastwood movie. Oh, never mind.
When I worked for a utility contractor all the trucks and equipment had water separators on them. Thanks for the vlog Josh👍
That was so fun to watch. I was rooting for it to work the whole time. I love taking stuff apart like that as well to see if I can fix it first. Great job Josh!
I LOVE THIS KIND OF STUFF!! I can watch these kinds of videos any time of the day. And best of all I love seeing ways to fix things instead of throwing new parts on, save lots of money, and learn something new!! Awesone awesome awesome!! Thanks again for another great video!!
I don't have a farm but I love trucks and Jeep and tractor 🚜 Just like how a farm works ! Take care Stoney Ridge Farmer 👨🏼🌾
Take it to an ELECTRIC MOTOR REPAIR Shop, generator repair shop.!.! Rebuild it ...AND how about a UNION IN the line before the hose.?.?
Top man 👍🏴🇬🇧
Good job Josh, that inline filter will protect whatever your putting fuel in., but what about the pump because that was your issue in the 1st place..water getting into the pump you need a pre-filter for the inlet side when you add fuel to the tank..or you can go to the truck stop and get or Google stanadyne diesel tank additive it's it works just for this situation keeps water out of the tank
Great video. Really appreciate these kinds of videos. Thank you for sharing.
Great job!!! That was brilliant to clean it up and try it again!
Nice work rebuilding! More ppl need to have the desire to learn and do the work themselves. WOO!
I'm with you. These are some of my favorite kinds of projects. Anything I can put some thought to with a bit of elbow grease and get the job done.
Great Job man! and Huge smiles at the end! I was smiling right along with ya WOOOOOOO!!
Glad you were able to fix the motor. Always remember that your time is worth money too. Hope you find the real source of your fuel problem.
Oh how I wish the schools would go back to teaching more of these type subjects. Great job Josh, you are the man.
Talk to your local fuel companies. Get a on farm tank for fuel. Have the companies deliver to you. In many cases it’s much cheaper. Just remind that your a farmer when calling. Best of luck!
I'm glad the motor repair worked out well, I had no idea those repair kits were so expensive. Good job.
Hey ! Josh & Mrs. Stoney Ridge Farmer. Happy THANKSGIVING!
Gonna change your rank from nurse Josh to surgeon Josh as you diagnosed and operated on that fuel pump giving it a longer life....well done learned a lot
lol
Had to replace our pump recently. Ours was sealed and not serviceable so had to replace the whole unit. Ours, the seals had failed and the switch and motor portions both had corroded terribly. Glad you fixed yours with little cost and I think I’m going to get the same visible filter next time around!
I'm very glad you got that fuel tank and pump working.i really enjoyed watching the video Bud. Thank you
Great video of how to repair a rusty stator and housing. When you had that crescent wrench all I could think of was Jaw's Where gonna need a BIGGER WRENCH LOL. Thanks for sharing.
That wrench also seems to make a good hammer.
Good job stoney ridge from Franklin,NC
Great video. Glad you got it running. I really enjoyed learning how those pumps are put together.
tip for cleaning motor housings, a Cylinder Hone tool will clean them out nicely and not mess with the magnet alignment. I wouldn't use your best one but everyone has grandad's old one lying around.
I was about to say use an structural acrylic adhesive not caulk, but you figured that out. Epoxy is OK, but acrylic has a higher temperature rating and it's what the OEM would have used for glue the magnets. Replacing the bearings would have been nice, maybe next time.
Good job on fixing that, you can service most big motors but they don't make them easy.
Josh did you put some good grease into armature bush bearings at both ends.....? That is how I recovered lots of motors too, change brush kit, change armature, change brush holder, reseal , did water proof, ok.....
Nothing quite like being able to fix something like this on your own to make your day and save some cash. Appreciate the walk through.
Nice work Josh. Seems to me that when the water got into the motor, the magnets came loose and the rotor was rubbing against the magnets, making the noise and stopping it. Sure feels nice fixing something yourself and saving a ton of money. Last spring my chainsaw wouldn't run well and I replaces the Card, fuel lines and fuel filter and now it runs great - cost 25.00.
Hook directly to the battery. Hooking to a body ground just increases the resistance of the circuit. Very hard on motors.
Glad you showed how to save money and fix the problem.
Put the nozzle in the fill hole bung and cycle fuel in tank for 15 minutes and see what your new filter picks up and park the pickup on a side slope so water, debrie get sucked up with sucker pipe.
Repeat in a few months after sloshing it around. If to bad, pull tank and steam clean insides and be good as new. Now you know why pilots of small planes check for water so often.
That’s crazy I just had to repair my pump because of that I had to gorilla glue the magnets back to the walls using clamps and it works great now quiet as can be
Hi Josh, great job with the motor...
I've had to improvise sanding in a cylinder before, and where you stuck the sandpaper to the socket works. If you leave 4-6 inches extra on the paper, it acts like a flap sander. It gives you a more uniform sanding finish.
Also, plumbing supply dealers usually have rolls of mesh sanding material 2½" wide that takes material off fast, but leaves a polished surface.
JB Weld is what we use on fly wheel magnets on small engine flywheels.
Great job! Now that’s a sense of accomplishment!
Though I may have done it slightly different I applaud you for your perseverance in problem solving with what you had available !
Unless you keep your metal tank brim full the tank will generate condensation particularly as the nights get cooler. The inline separator will protect your tractors but not negate the source of the problem. A screw closed air inlet would be very beneficial so long as you remember to open it when you fuel up. Regards from Scotland.
Josh, I just heard from a farmer that some Diesel suppliers may be adding Bio-Diesel to their regular fuel and could be causing the issues you're experiencing with the corrosion and water in the tank, algae growth, filters not lasting as long and so on. I just wanted to let ya know, so maybe you could ask your dealer if their supplier is doing this ? Happy Thanksgiving !
Hey Josh thank you for the video and I'm happy things worked out there for you
Hope it last you a few good years. Thank you for showing how to dissemble the pump and motor. Great video.
Josh after you put the fuel water separate r on put a 90 on and keep your other filter after the seperater!
"Think outside the box a little bit"... A man after my own heart there, I'm 17mins in now & you're tackling this the way i would have too. Fingers crossed you get the magnets back the right way first time else you can end up with a suction pump to de-fuel the tractors lol!
Good job Josh. Now that’s cookin and gettin er done. Woooo. Really enjoyed the video. 👍👍👍❤️
At the start, that squeal was a sure sign of a bad motor. Consider yourself lucky that the coils didn't overheat and short the windings. It was fun watching you rebuild the pump.
Good stuff Josh. Everyone thinks that if you got equipment its always gonna work. Obviously Not.
Clean fuel is definitely a must. Thanks buddy, I'll be more careful about my fuel from now on. Even the simple little things can be very costly if your tractor breaks down. Thanks my friend.
Maybe a pick up screen or sock on the bottom of the pick up tube will help you situation.
WELL DONE JOSH!!!
That was an awesome WIN!!! 😎
Good video Josh. To help keep that fuel clean, every now and then turn on the pump and just circulate the fuel back into the fuel fill hole. That way it runs through the filter and water separator and helps keep the water and contaminate levels low. Then just clean the filter like you normally would. Good job though. Always worth fixing what you can.
I like the rebuilding part of the motor but one word of advice about Teflon tape that I learned from replumbing my air compressor. It is recommended to use Teflon paste instead of the tape. The theory is that the tape can break off and get stuck in something whereas the paste dissolves. No idea if it is true, but I have had good success with the paste. Thanks for the videos!
If you get that crud out, clean it up and it should be good. And yes definitely enjoying this.
Great video josh you done a fantastic job cleaning up that pump thank you for sharing wooo
Clean it up and grease the bearings put it back together. Make sure you seal it up good!
You may do it later in video (I'm just at the part where you take switch out) but look at the strainer on the pump intake in the tank.
I would recommend sticking the nozzle in the tank fill and running it to recirc and loosen up the crud once and for all and flush it into the filter
Josh you can buy an extension for those brushes and a real good adhesive to use is E6000 plus
Cool, love fixing stuff and saving money!
Your DIY videos are superb!! Thanks For all you do Josh 😁. Wooooooooo!
Cover the pump up when it rains, or if you wash the truck. Doesn't take much water to get in there, and make it rust inside. For the price you got the tank, and pump for it probably sat outside for awhile.
Does it make me weird to say, that I always keep looking to see how much video is left. I never want them to end, been a fan for a while.......your awesome sir!!
Need to seal the motor to pump case or water will get in again. Although, none of that is what's in the fuel! The tank itself needs cleaned and a strainer installed on the fill. The bushing/bearings need replaced, the armature should not touch the magnet.
Way to go stony good job knew you could do it
Josh
One thing you should check is to see where the metal stamping where the shifted if they cut into the insulation on the windings ( that insulation is only a thin layer of lacquer)
That will reduce the effectiveness of the windings and could eventually cause the armature to burn out.
You might be able to see if those windings are damaged and re-lacquer around the areas. (don't hold your breath that that will fix it though. Good luck)
Nice work. Make sure the tank is vented. Mositure will come from the air in the tank, condense and form drops on the underside of the top, especially if not well vented. That will both rust the top of the tank and drop into the fuel.
Awesome job. Bit of time and effort goes a long way. How good is it when you fix it and it works. All worth the time and effort. Happy times woooo 👍🏻
Excellent job Stoney!
I would have done the same thing you did. Hopefully you put a dab of high speed wheel grease on the ends of the armature shafts.
Whooo!
MB BAR RANCH
Great video!..thanks for sharing..really like watching your channel
Shipmate, take the pump out on pickup tube wrap brass/copper screen wire on bottom to keep particles out of the plastic gears. You do know that mold will grow in your fuel tank unless treated, it does take some time, try to keep the tank full always prevents condensation accumulation (water). ChiefD
behind the switch is a auto resetting fuse, used a lot in campers where the battery is charged while hooked up to the pulling vehicle
Good job always great feeling when you can save big bucks
Woooooooooo
10:26 OK my input, the water in the fuel has killed that front bearing for the drive mechanism. It'll likely be an open race roller that is meant to be lubricated by the diesel fuel & it's not taken kindly to the water/crud mix. You might find if you hose it out with brake cleaner and then diesel it'll come back somewhat but if it's easy to get out, you can go to a bearing factor and they can replace it from the numbers stamped on the side.
Good job Josh 100 bucks and little know how or maybe a little not know how you have a nice tank and pump
I am a new subscriber to your channel I love the music you use on your intro of the video it fits my attitude and way of life.
I am not a farmer but your video was educational good to see you try to fix it yourself instead of buying new that is smart and saves money.
I am going to enjoy your videos I am sure
park the truck so it leans to the passenger side over night so if there is water in tank it settle out and you pump the water out first
A problem we find here in the UK is diesel bug! Clogs filters and pumps. Causes sludge in the bottom of the tank.
The higher the water content the worse it is. Especially prevalent in fuel that has been sat in the tank for a long time.
You have to clean the tank, keep the tank full (to avoid condensation water build up) with clean fuel.add a fuel treatment.
I would suggest finding a 1 gallon clear glass jug (clean obviously) and pump directly into it, fill er up and leave sit overnight and see if you have any junk or water settled on the bottom. Also, try to find a spot under roof to park to eliminate the possibility that the water is getting in on your end rather than the supplier.
I have a feeling you could rebuild that pump when you take it apart all it need is a good cleaning to get all that rust off after you did that it running like new good job.👍
Nicely done.. Another great vlog.. Glad to see it worked out in the end.. I'm like you fix it first if possible before throwing in the towel and cash on putting in a new one.
Great job! I love fixing things like that!
fantastic job and educational you cant beat the feeling when you can fix it
The water separator and filter perform different functions. It seems to me that instead of just replacing the filter with the water separator, the separator should have been added to the system between the pump and filter. At least that's the way we have it on boats.
The fuel water separator has a filter inside that's replaceable my brotha...I think I'm covered...I hope
Was going to say the same thing I live on a canal boat in the UK. Have a 4cyl Kubota Diesel engine. Have a fuel separator AND a filter.
@@StoneyRidgeFarmer Why run the trash through the pump, clean the fuel before the pump. Clean the tank, buy fuel from the same place to keep a check on the quality of your fuel.
Maybe I missed it did you lubricate the bearings of the motor and there is no such thing as a{sealed} bearing in that pump you can get some added lubrication to the bearings.Keeping the motor water tight helps too. Checking the voltage to the pump will let you know it is being given enough voltage to live a long life. I see you get a lot of comments of all kinds it maybe worthwile to consider some of them Good luck
These motors are built the same as starter motors they have iolite bushings so no lube required although they might be shot and need to be replaced.
Well done Josh!
I do a lot of stuff like that at my place, Farm Fixed. I got a 100 gallon tank from a friend years ago but never used it, it sat for years unused and unloved. I got tired of filling my tractor and skid steer from 5 gallon cans so i started working on the tank. A little crud inside and slightly rusted from condensation I figure so I got it cleaned out pretty well using Evaporust, ball bearings and fuel. I drove it around in the back of my truck for a few weeks whIle so everything could slosh around well. Once I got it all cleaned out I filled it with 60 gallons with an additive to preserve the fuel. Got a new Goldenrod filter and tried pumping it, hand type pump. It filled the filter but nothing out of the nozzle and the pump was tight and blowing fuel out of the small flapper anti syphon valve on the pump. Got a new flapper valve, no leaks now but still no fuel and the pump was tight. I took the filler hose off and stuck my air nozzle in it to blow it out and this wad of gunk came flying out of the hose. I cleaned the hose out really well and put it back together and it worked like a champ. Evidentially in its’ life with my friend a mud dobber had stuffed the hose with mud, they do that just to piss you off.
Moral to the story is keep the filler hose covered so nothing gets inside like mud dobbers.
I really enjoyed this video, very useful for the rest of us out here. Not being a financial wizard I need to be careful with my money and not waste it. The Lord takes very good care of me and whenever I really need something I can’t fix I reach in my pocket and I find exactly what I need, like magic pants. How cool is that? Thanks Dad!
I have the same pump, the Fil-Rite are better pumps. I’ve never had any issues with the GPI but it’s not as smooth and doesn’t pump as fast as the Fil-rite. The epoxied magnets came off on my mower starter and made the same noise as your pump. I cleaned up the housing for the starter mower and epoxied the magnets back in, works good again.
Witness mark the parts before disassembly.
Use a white bucket test first with the filter housing in place but without a filter. Pump into a white bucket to determine if there is any water or crud in a tank. No water or crud, pour it back into the tank then install the filter. Saves wasting a filter right off the bat.
It's best to keep the tank full, too. Above ground tanks will sweat internally...thats why diesel tanks at truck stops are heated in the winter.
I wonder if it would help to make some sort of a cover to protect the pump a little better from direct water/moisture??
Good idea!
Josh I don't think you got bad fuel. I believe your pump got water in it and went in to the tank. I would definitely get that tank flushed. God bless
As others have said, filter the fuel separately and after the water separator. The internal filter is much coarser than the separate filter.
The water issue is likely to be or have been the tank itsself. Make sure you have removed and resealed all vents, fillers and pump mountings.
How did you know where the heck the magnets went?
Good for you dude I pleasantly surprised.
Cool even though this is an old video
I love it when things work out!!
Good stuff!
AJ
Never seen all those parts in my fillrite pump I took the other side off first and found the magnetic broke in the middle on one side and was no longer glued to the wall and dragging so I used like 5 clamps different sizes so I can evenly put pressure on the magnet and glued it back to the wall and it sounds quiet and like a band new pump
Hey Josh- just wanted to let you know that you that you just took a step backwards in your tractor fuel filter plugging problem. The two previous tank filters carry a 10 micron rating and your new water separator has a 17 micron rating , meaning it does not filter as well as the 10 micron filter. You should have put that cim tek filter assembly back on after the separator and before the hose. Most modern diesels use a fuel filer that is rated at less than 10 micron ( usually around 4 micron). You will be pumping junk out of your tank for a long time unless you empty it and have it thoroughly cleaned , once you get that stuff in a metal storage tank, it's hard to get it out.
Pampers work well for catching all of the xtra fuel or oil in the case of a filter and oil change. Time for an after-hours Emergency Margarectomy now!!!!