this is the most impressive an well put together video i have seen on you tube absolutely amazing informative gets to the point if i lived there in dat town this wud b the only place i wud go for repairs well done keep the good work up.
doc please do the clutch upgrade video I have the stage 4 kit on my softail twin cam and am very interested in upgrading once again thanks for the great videos your a true master tech
Very good point about correct bearing installation. Home mechanics should own at least a Harbor Freight hydraulic press for many reasons but it's the technique that matters and correct selection of press tools is vital. Like most mechanics I keep a collection of pipe, tubing, and bearing/seal drivers (no chrome! I actually saw a commercial set the maker was stupid enough to plate despite knowing plating flakes off). Those not so equipped should see an automotive machine shop or dealer and if the person doing the work isn't a Harley dealer, REMIND them ball and roller bearings are to be removed and installed by pressing the OUTER race.
If I need to replace my clutch and compensator now, on my stock 96", but plan on doing a top end or 103" upgrade later, can you recommend a clutch that will work fine now, but be ready for more power later? Also darkhorse ind. compensator upgrade...good or bad? Recommendations on a clutch, tensioner, compensator kit would be awesome too! Thank you guys for the awesome videos
James Gaskets are ok over price , cosmetic are just as good , primary cover cam cover base head gaskets work from any place aftermarket but rocker cover gaskets , nothing beats true harley part on the top of the head . aftermarket rubber gaskets do not fit well . they have hump and bumps and leak. I order from the Harley shop by mail $2.50 shipping the harley shop is 120 miles away . have used all kinds of gaskets only ones that work on the rocker covers are harley .
Doc Harley I have an 02 FLSTC and had the kick back problem for a long time it was even worse when the engine was hot. I found if I bumped the starter and then hit it with purpose the bike would fire up fine "I assume that bump cleared the cylinders of compression from heat"... I was told it was the compensator by many without any further examination.. Well after about a year I had to replace the battery and lo and behold it has never had that issue again. Is this also common? I wonder how many compensators have been replaced due to a battery issue. Thanks for your thoughts and insight.
Harley starters operate under more demanding conditions than the same starter in a car or truck (all HD starters since the early 1990s are Denso OSGR Light Duty car starters also used on tens of millions of cars and trucks). BTW since yours is a 2002 and that was a very long time ago, inspect your starter solenoid contacts. Its very easy with only three solenoid end cover screws to remove. Contact kits are dirt cheap and easy to install if you have basic mechanical ability. Worn contacts reduce the current available to your starter. It's also a very good idea to inspect your battery cables (ground is as important as hot!) and replace if in doubt. They can and do corrode internally and inside the crimped terminal lugs. I don't doubt some compensators have been replaced wrongly. Too many people throw parts at a problem, including some who should know better. When you do your contacts consider replacing the stock solenoid end cover with an aftermarket pushbutton end cap. They're about 20 bucks and harmlessly bypass the starter control circuitry which is untouched by the mod. You may never need it, but if that little Bosch style starter relay (you can find replacements at auto stores, they are also common as dirt. 30 or 40A rating is fine) fails one day you can press on instead of jumpering the relay or otherwise bypassing the control circuit.
Hello Doc. Thanks for making the video. I have an obvious bearing noise coming from a 92 Heritage I just bought from the 2nd owner. Once I remove the clutch basket, how can I tell if the Trans Shaft bearing is bad too?
Not him but it NEVER hurts to flush hydraulic clutches or brakes. Congrats on you flushing your brakes! I'm a multibrand mechanic and very few owners every have that done or do it themselves despite moisture doing horrid things to brake fluid. BTW don't omit periodic fork oil changes either. Front suspensions work better with the right amount of fluid.
I just purchase a 2000 ultra classic and have been trying to find out what is the clearance in thousands between pressure and disc with the I/2 to 3/4 counter-clockwise turn been on youtube so far no luck or is there a preload setting?
I have a 2006 SG that has had a screaming eagle engine up grade. When I make a fast start from stop, I get a couple of bumps while in first and maybe one or two when in 2nd. It smooths out but is of concern. It doesn’t do it when I ease out from stop only when I need to accelerate quickly. Your thoughts.
What is "a couple of bumps?" And was your bike dyno tuned with all your mix of components? Exhaust can make a big difference and size of injectors but it all can be adjusted by a tune...Doc
I have a 2013 Ultra Limited with 93k miles. I adjusted my clutch during a routine maintenance and then discovered that my clutch slipped in 5th gear while accelerating. Checked the clutch again and found that I had backed out the adjustment too much. Readjusted with an alien wrench to get a better look at the 1/2 turn blackout and took it for another test ride. The clutch still is slipping by perhaps 300-400 RPM sometimes, but not always, when I accelerate (From typical ~3K to ~ 3.4K RPM). Also during the maintenance, I switched from Syn3 primary oil to the new heavier Harley primary/transmission fluid, in case that has any relevance. Suggestions/comments please. Thank you Doc!
93k on an original clutch is good. Depending on your geographical location, the clutch might be worn out. I am sure there are grooves in the clutch basket and inner hub from steal and fiber plates. The inner clutch bearing and the spline inner hub teeth are also worn. Do not be surprised by my next suggestion. Purchase an entire clutch assembly. It is cheaper than rebuilding your current assembly. If you had trouble in keeping an adjustment, you should pull and push the main shaft as well as lift and push down. The pull and push will feel the end bearings in the right transmission case, and the up and down will feel the final drive bearings. This is the time to make sure everything is right for the next 95K miles. Thanks ~ Doc
So now when my bike goes active with EITMS I now have knocking in my clutch basket area on my 103. I took off my derby cover and if I rock the pressure plate area by grabbing two of the six bolts on diafram spring by hand I feel the knocking noise. I take it that something is coming apart in that area Any ideas?
Hey Doc, The clutch hub nut looks like it does not thread on all the way! Even without the clutch basket on the shaft, the nut when threaded all the way still has about 1/8 inch of thread to go. With the clutch basket on the shaft I am at 1/4” of extra nut and thread to go! Is this normal and if so, why is this?
Watching March 29 th,I have a 2009 fat bob cvo screaming eagle, just took it down stator bad found same problem with my clutch hub,my ? Is my compensater a screaming eagle one or should I upgrade
Always a great vid experience. my question, is there also an upgrade for my clutchpacks double riveted steel pressure plate? some rivets are missing from mine, and I wont put it back together til I fins a replacement or something better? My bike is a 1991 electra glide sport ( FLHS) with 100k+ miles on her. this plate sat between half the clutchpacks friction plates and steel plates, (4 of each on either side) any assistance is appreciated Thank you Keith Hill
@@LowCountryHarleyDavidson hoping Harley has one for me, at 28 yrs old, they keep saying that ugly word obsolete. Fingers crossed they can find one for.me
@@LowCountryHarleyDavidson thank you much! Turns out there are six atthe Harley warehouse in Ontario. I ordered and paid. When it comes in I'm gonna purchase a spare for later years when she needs one again. Thank you for your replies. Have a great day
Doc I’m in need of some advice. I had to change the stator in my 2001 Roadking. After I put it all back together it seems my clutch will not disengage. I have adjusted in the primary and the cable several times, and even took the trans cover off to inspect on the other side. Not sure where to go from here. Any tips are appreciated!
2 thoughts. First it is so easy for the ball and ramp assembly to pull forward. If this happens all the adjustments are wrong. Undo everything, primary adjuster back off three turns, undo all clutch cable adjustment. Undo the the lever from cable. Push the inner cable all the way into the outer cable. Repeat to make sure the ball and ramp are in the neutral position. Attach lever make sure the inner cable is pushed towards the transmission. Do the primary adjustment all the way in then out 3 times with final turn out 3/4 turn. Lock down. Now adjust your cable leaving 1/8 slack at lever. #2 remove primary cover. Check the distance from the chain to inner primary cover at compensator and at clutch. They should be close…..Doc
The classic, comfortable and cheap 3M yellow foam plugs pass USAF bio-environmental health testing, are washable (throw 'em in a sock or a pocket) and work very well. They also clean your ears. I've worn them for work, at home and when shooting since 1981 when I enlisted. Roll between thumb and forefinger, insert, and they'll comfortably expand to fit your ear canal. www.amazon.com/3M-OCS1137-Classic-Earplugs-Pillow/dp/B008MCU2M4
@@LowCountryHarleyDavidson well Doc.Like I said. If I put my solftail in neutral and start it then pull the clutch in and put it in gear it dies. So once it's in gear it stays in gear. I have adjusted it many times. As well as the cable. Without any change so I called the local harley dealer and setup a appointment for June 10 th.just wish I could have figured it out myself.
You don't have to wait for videos. Get comfortable using forums which offer far more tech detail than videos. Some excellent fora are Harley Tech Talk and vtwinforum but there are many more.
Screaming Eagle performance parts work. Take the time to research. Follow reviews and comments. Select the product that fits your budget and performance needs. It is always your choice not my opinion…..Doc
Usually yes. But it depends on what SE you are talking about. The early multi spring SE clutch is very hard to pull in. I would suggest the SE Variable Pressure Clutch. Very easy at idle and cruising but it makes more pressure to the clutch plates as the RPM go up. Thanks ~ Doc
after adjusting my clutch cable, soon i ride my bike few miles my clutch lever starts to get all wobbly lots of slack and cant change gear what can it be.
good gosh!!! someone needs to clean the top of their tool box!!! there is all sorts of stuff on it. I say this knowing I need to do the same myself,,lol,,
Doc, I was trying to figure out how to send you a private message, but I'll ask it on here instead. I have a '98 Heritage Softail, Evo engine (80 ci). Sometimes, not all the time, when I start shifting up through the gears, I cannot get it to go into 3rd gear. Its very dangerous pulling out into traffic and not being able to upshift...cars start stacking up behind me, leaving me no choice but to pull over and start back over in 1st gear, hoping it will shift upwards thereafter. Can you--or anybody on here--please tell me what causes this? If you have a solution or a video, can you please steer me in the right direction? In the meantime, Im grounded in the garage until I can figure out a fix....Seems like 3rd gear is the main gear I have issues with because when it does decide to shift upwards, I can get all the way up into 5th gear ok. Downshifting hasnt been a problem yet. Thanks in advance...
There is a shifter prawl adjuster at your transmission that effects up and down shifting but it sounds like you might have a bent shift fork for third gear. Also check to see how tight the shift lever is where connected to the transmission. I'd have to see your bike to know more.
Doc, I'm doing a clutch hub replacement on a 2008 HD Road king Classic. In my clutch hub I found an unusual collection of washers and a flat spring that doesn't make sense. they were loose just behind the left handed nut. I will reply to this comment with pics if I can to show you what I found.
I am the proud owner of a 2011 Ultra that runs perfectly but I have to admit these videos are causing me concern. I had Japanese bikes my whole life and never had any reason to tear them down for any of these things. I guess that's why I have the Harley ESP in order to sleep at night. Your comments would be appreciated.
this is the most impressive an well put together video i have seen on you tube absolutely amazing informative gets to the point if i lived there in dat town this wud b the only place i wud go for repairs well done keep the good work up.
Авто/Мото
Let's hear it.. I'm super interested in knowing more
As always, EXCELLENT information Doc! Truly appreciate your years of knowledge and willingness to share information. Happy New Year to you and yours.
this is the most impressive an well put together video i have seen on you tube absolutely amazing informative gets to the point if i lived there in dat town this wud b the only place i wud go for repairs well done keep the good work up.
These videos are good stuff! Thanks Doc.
doc please do the clutch upgrade video I have the stage 4 kit on my softail twin cam and am very interested in upgrading once again thanks for the great videos your a true master tech
love your videos simple straight to the point and explained very well.For sure make the other cideo
I love your videos Doc! I have an 2011 FXDWG and am wanting hard saddlebags but can't seem to find any. What do you suggest?
Very good point about correct bearing installation.
Home mechanics should own at least a Harbor Freight hydraulic press for many reasons but it's the technique that matters and correct selection of press tools is vital. Like most mechanics I keep a collection of pipe, tubing, and bearing/seal drivers (no chrome! I actually saw a commercial set the maker was stupid enough to plate despite knowing plating flakes off). Those not so equipped should see an automotive machine shop or dealer and if the person doing the work isn't a Harley dealer, REMIND them ball and roller bearings are to be removed and installed by pressing the OUTER race.
great info ! Thanks Doc
BRUTAL GOOD ..... camera man a couple of beers? jajajaj .. Love it .... great job ... I've learned a lot from you ...! THANKS!
Thanks for tuning in Luis....Doc
If I need to replace my clutch and compensator now, on my stock 96", but plan on doing a top end or 103" upgrade later, can you recommend a clutch that will work fine now, but be ready for more power later? Also darkhorse ind. compensator upgrade...good or bad? Recommendations on a clutch, tensioner, compensator kit would be awesome too! Thank you guys for the awesome videos
Great Pro Tip! Thanks! 😎🇺🇸
Would love to see a video about different clutch upgrades
Hey Doc, love your videos. I have a ? for you. James gaskets, are they any good? are they a better upgrade than harley ?
thanks.
James Gaskets are ok over price , cosmetic are just as good , primary cover cam cover base head gaskets work from any place aftermarket but rocker cover gaskets , nothing beats true harley part on the top of the head . aftermarket rubber gaskets do not fit well . they have hump and bumps and leak. I order from the Harley shop by mail $2.50 shipping the harley shop is 120 miles away . have used all kinds of gaskets only ones that work on the rocker covers are harley .
Doc Harley I have an 02 FLSTC and had the kick back problem for a long time it was even worse when the engine was hot. I found if I bumped the starter and then hit it with purpose the bike would fire up fine "I assume that bump cleared the cylinders of compression from heat"... I was told it was the compensator by many without any further examination.. Well after about a year I had to replace the battery and lo and behold it has never had that issue again. Is this also common? I wonder how many compensators have been replaced due to a battery issue. Thanks for your thoughts and insight.
Harley starters operate under more demanding conditions than the same starter in a car or truck (all HD starters since the early 1990s are Denso OSGR Light Duty car starters also used on tens of millions of cars and trucks). BTW since yours is a 2002 and that was a very long time ago, inspect your starter solenoid contacts. Its very easy with only three solenoid end cover screws to remove. Contact kits are dirt cheap and easy to install if you have basic mechanical ability. Worn contacts reduce the current available to your starter. It's also a very good idea to inspect your battery cables (ground is as important as hot!) and replace if in doubt. They can and do corrode internally and inside the crimped terminal lugs. I don't doubt some compensators have been replaced wrongly. Too many people throw parts at a problem, including some who should know better. When you do your contacts consider replacing the stock solenoid end cover with an aftermarket pushbutton end cap. They're about 20 bucks and harmlessly bypass the starter control circuitry which is untouched by the mod. You may never need it, but if that little Bosch style starter relay (you can find replacements at auto stores, they are also common as dirt. 30 or 40A rating is fine) fails one day you can press on instead of jumpering the relay or otherwise bypassing the control circuit.
Haven't heard from you in awhile Doc
Hello Doc. Thanks for making the video. I have an obvious bearing noise coming from a 92 Heritage I just bought from the 2nd owner. Once I remove the clutch basket, how can I tell if the Trans Shaft bearing is bad too?
Too much movement up and down, and in and out. enough movement that the seals can't hold back the oil....Doc
Doc Harley Question? I have a 2014 Harley SG with the Hydraulic clutch thefluid is four years old in it should it be flush out like i do my brakes ?
Not him but it NEVER hurts to flush hydraulic clutches or brakes. Congrats on you flushing your brakes! I'm a multibrand mechanic and very few owners every have that done or do it themselves despite moisture doing horrid things to brake fluid. BTW don't omit periodic fork oil changes either. Front suspensions work better with the right amount of fluid.
I just purchase a 2000 ultra classic and have been trying to find out what is the clearance in thousands between pressure and disc with the I/2 to 3/4 counter-clockwise turn been on youtube so far no luck or is there a preload setting?
No preload. The backing off is for heat expansion
I have a 2006 SG that has had a screaming eagle engine up grade. When I make a fast start from stop, I get a couple of bumps while in first and maybe one or two when in 2nd. It smooths out but is of concern. It doesn’t do it when I ease out from stop only when I need to accelerate quickly. Your thoughts.
What is "a couple of bumps?" And was your bike dyno tuned with all your mix of components? Exhaust can make a big difference and size of injectors but it all can be adjusted by a tune...Doc
I have a 2013 Ultra Limited with 93k miles. I adjusted my clutch during a routine maintenance and then discovered that my clutch slipped in 5th gear while accelerating. Checked the clutch again and found that I had backed out the adjustment too much. Readjusted with an alien wrench to get a better look at the 1/2 turn blackout and took it for another test ride. The clutch still is slipping by perhaps 300-400 RPM sometimes, but not always, when I accelerate (From typical ~3K to ~ 3.4K RPM). Also during the maintenance, I switched from Syn3 primary oil to the new heavier Harley primary/transmission fluid, in case that has any relevance. Suggestions/comments please. Thank you Doc!
93k on an original clutch is good. Depending on your geographical location, the clutch might be worn out. I am sure there are grooves in the clutch basket and inner hub from steal and fiber plates. The inner clutch bearing and the spline inner hub teeth are also worn. Do not be surprised by my next suggestion. Purchase an entire clutch assembly. It is cheaper than rebuilding your current assembly. If you had trouble in keeping an adjustment, you should pull and push the main shaft as well as lift and push down. The pull and push will feel the end bearings in the right transmission case, and the up and down will feel the final drive bearings. This is the time to make sure everything is right for the next 95K miles. Thanks ~ Doc
I needed some help from you
Since there is tons of material out there about aftermarket clutches, a video covering just HD options would be useful.
Ob Fuscated Is this what you are looking for? ruclips.net/video/PDbiLFtIhjM/видео.html
So now when my bike goes active with EITMS I now have knocking in my clutch basket area on my 103. I took off my derby cover and if I rock the pressure plate area by grabbing two of the six bolts on diafram spring by hand I feel the knocking noise. I take it that something is coming apart in that area Any ideas?
Best to take it in and have the Primary assembly looked at…..Doc
Hey Doc,
The clutch hub nut looks like it does not thread on all the way! Even without the clutch basket on the shaft, the nut when threaded all the way still has about 1/8 inch of thread to go. With the clutch basket on the shaft I am at 1/4” of extra nut and thread to go! Is this normal and if so, why is this?
This is something I cannot fix over the internet. It sounds like the wrong year inner clutch for your shaft. Take it to your nearest dealer.
Watching March 29 th,I have a 2009 fat bob cvo screaming eagle, just took it down stator bad found same problem with my clutch hub,my ? Is my compensater a screaming eagle one or should I upgrade
If offered and fits, upgrade 👍
How about a 88 with S&S 510 cams, plate, oil pump? Will stock equipment be fine?
To broad of a question. So many things can effect the answers...Doc
Always a great vid experience. my question, is there also an upgrade for my clutchpacks double riveted steel pressure plate? some rivets are missing from mine, and I wont put it back together til I fins a replacement or something better? My bike is a 1991 electra glide sport ( FLHS) with 100k+ miles on her. this plate sat between half the clutchpacks friction plates and steel plates, (4 of each on either side) any assistance is appreciated Thank you Keith Hill
Congratulations on 100k miles! I’d install a brand new one and put another 100k on it. Any alternative replacements will change how your ride feels.
@@LowCountryHarleyDavidson hoping Harley has one for me, at 28 yrs old, they keep saying that ugly word obsolete. Fingers crossed they can find one for.me
If your local dealer doesn’t have one, let us know and we can check our inventory.
@@LowCountryHarleyDavidson thank you much! Turns out there are six atthe Harley warehouse in Ontario. I ordered and paid. When it comes in I'm gonna purchase a spare for later years when she needs one again. Thank you for your replies. Have a great day
Doc I’m in need of some advice. I had to change the stator in my 2001 Roadking. After I put it all back together it seems my clutch will not disengage. I have adjusted in the primary and the cable several times, and even took the trans cover off to inspect on the other side. Not sure where to go from here. Any tips are appreciated!
2 thoughts. First it is so easy for the ball and ramp assembly to pull forward. If this happens all the adjustments are wrong. Undo everything, primary adjuster back off three turns, undo all clutch cable adjustment. Undo the the lever from cable. Push the inner cable all the way into the outer cable. Repeat to make sure the ball and ramp are in the neutral position. Attach lever make sure the inner cable is pushed towards the transmission. Do the primary adjustment all the way in then out 3 times with final turn out 3/4 turn. Lock down. Now adjust your cable leaving 1/8 slack at lever.
#2 remove primary cover. Check the distance from the chain to inner primary cover at compensator and at clutch. They should be close…..Doc
@@LowCountryHarleyDavidson thank you sir!
What do you suggest for earplugs wind etc want to be able to hear conversation, police.
The classic, comfortable and cheap 3M yellow foam plugs pass USAF bio-environmental health testing, are washable (throw 'em in a sock or a pocket) and work very well. They also clean your ears. I've worn them for work, at home and when shooting since 1981 when I enlisted. Roll between thumb and forefinger, insert, and they'll comfortably expand to fit your ear canal. www.amazon.com/3M-OCS1137-Classic-Earplugs-Pillow/dp/B008MCU2M4
My clutch isn't releasing. So when I pull the lever it stays in gear. What do you think it is?
John I need a lot more information to help. Contact me with that through my email. doc@lowcountryharley.com ~ Thanks, Doc
@@LowCountryHarleyDavidson well Doc.Like I said. If I put my solftail in neutral and start it then pull the clutch in and put it in gear it dies. So once it's in gear it stays in gear. I have adjusted it many times. As well as the cable. Without any change so I called the local harley dealer and setup a appointment for June 10 th.just wish I could have figured it out myself.
Please talk about the clutch upgrades
You don't have to wait for videos. Get comfortable using forums which offer far more tech detail than videos. Some excellent fora are Harley Tech Talk and vtwinforum but there are many more.
Clutch video please
I have a 103” what’s the best compensator and clutch pack to buy
Screaming Eagle performance parts work. Take the time to research. Follow reviews and comments. Select the product that fits your budget and performance needs. It is always your choice not my opinion…..Doc
Is thr se clutch a lighter pull than a Barnett scorpion? I hate hard pulling clutches but need something strong for my 103
Usually yes. But it depends on what SE you are talking about. The early multi spring SE clutch is very hard to pull in. I would suggest the SE Variable Pressure Clutch. Very easy at idle and cruising but it makes more pressure to the clutch plates as the RPM go up. Thanks ~ Doc
@@LowCountryHarleyDavidson cool thanks. I don't need slipping while doing burnouts and such haha
after adjusting my clutch cable, soon i ride my bike few miles my clutch lever starts to get all wobbly lots of slack and cant change gear what can it be.
Throw out bearing might be going bad...Doc
@@LowCountryHarleyDavidson Thank you
good gosh!!! someone needs to clean the top of their tool box!!! there is all sorts of stuff on it. I say this knowing I need to do the same myself,,lol,,
I have 2004 Softail, so should I be concerned about the compensator? It’s TC 88, only stage 1 and has about 9000 miles.
Are you the original owner?
No Sir, and it had 2100 miles clocked when I bought it last year.
At your 10,000 mile service have them check the compensator fastener/bolt
Doc, I was trying to figure out how to send you a private message, but I'll ask it on here instead. I have a '98 Heritage Softail, Evo engine (80 ci). Sometimes, not all the time, when I start shifting up through the gears, I cannot get it to go into 3rd gear. Its very dangerous pulling out into traffic and not being able to upshift...cars start stacking up behind me, leaving me no choice but to pull over and start back over in 1st gear, hoping it will shift upwards thereafter. Can you--or anybody on here--please tell me what causes this? If you have a solution or a video, can you please steer me in the right direction? In the meantime, Im grounded in the garage until I can figure out a fix....Seems like 3rd gear is the main gear I have issues with because when it does decide to shift upwards, I can get all the way up into 5th gear ok. Downshifting hasnt been a problem yet. Thanks in advance...
There is a shifter prawl adjuster at your transmission that effects up and down shifting but it sounds like you might have a bent shift fork for third gear. Also check to see how tight the shift lever is where connected to the transmission. I'd have to see your bike to know more.
Doc, I'm doing a clutch hub replacement on a 2008 HD Road king Classic. In my clutch hub I found an unusual collection of washers and a flat spring that doesn't make sense. they were loose just behind the left handed nut. I will reply to this comment with pics if I can to show you what I found.
unfortunatly im unapbe to post a pic here but if your interested to see it I suppose I could email it.
What clutch hub is best for 99 sporty 5 speed?
Why? The stock hub works well enough….Doc
@@LowCountryHarleyDavidson because both the hub and the basket need to be replaced. They both have wear marks from the clutch plate tangs.
I am the proud owner of a 2011 Ultra that runs perfectly but I have to admit these videos are causing me concern. I had Japanese bikes my whole life and never had any reason to tear them down for any of these things. I guess that's why I have the Harley ESP in order to sleep at night. Your comments would be appreciated.
Thank you!
Tep good ol harley davidson will do it for a good ol wapping $500 lol for 20mins of work but this good ol information
Thanks Don! To bad all mechanics aren't as smart as you. We could use a good one in Alaska.
Iwreacked my 250 2 stroke😫😏
Upgrade because HD made an interior product...
MY NIGGA
I,000.00 to have Harley press the thing back together.
Really bad camera work can’t see anything just a lot of the shop
Thanks for your critique....Doc
It's seems that Harley have many problems of reliability. Some folk have too much money and very little sense. Chrome don't get you home! lol
bite me
Seems you've never ridden or owned a harley.
Another idiot who doesn’t own a Harley talking straight out his asshole
this is the most impressive an well put together video i have seen on you tube absolutely amazing informative gets to the point if i lived there in dat town this wud b the only place i wud go for repairs well done keep the good work up.