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How to Replace DEF Reductant Heater 11-15 Ford F250 Diesel
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- Опубликовано: 17 апр 2017
- Shop for New Auto Parts at 1AAuto.com 1aau.to/c/271/a...
In the video, 1A Auto shows how to remove, replace, and install a broken DEF reductant heater. The video is applicable to the 11, 12, 13, 14, 15 Ford F250, F350, or F450 diesel pickup trucks.
🔧 List of tools used:
• 13mm Socket 1aau.to/oV5/1AX...
• 15mm Socket 1aau.to/oV5/1AX...
• 5.5mm Socket
• Ratchet 1aau.to/oaay/1A...
• Socket Extensions 1aau.to/oV5/1AX...
• Gloves 1aau.to/odi/1AX...
• Safety Glasses 1aau.to/o8/1AXA...
• Flashlight 1aau.to/oaL/1AX...
• Pick 1aau.to/ogI/1AX...
For More Info visit us at 1aau.to/h/aYD/
⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.
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I just completed this repair on my 2011 F350 and I have to give a complement to 1A Auto for this video. Repair went just as shown in the video and wasn’t bad at all. Part was an absolute exact replacement. My only suggestion is to use compressed air to clean off all the dirt and dust from the top of your DEF tank before you disassemble it. I did drain the tank when I took the old heater unit out and refilled it with fresh DEF after I put everything back together and reinstalled the tank.
You know, I hope you guys do tons of business! I looked around on this site and I can't believe how generous you are and how really good your videos are. The camera work, the dialog, the way you sequence the repairs, it's all just so incredibly helpful. Big Thank You from us hacks out here that have to figure out how to get this all done.
+Robert DuPre Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Really helpful video! Im a ford tech watching this on my lunch break before doing the job for the first time and this was super helpful!
I'm a GM tech just watched the video before doing this on my first Ford, pump and heater system is just like a GM, ford just put the tank in a much better spot!
Love the way he pre gritted the new part on the bench and and threw some grit in the tank just for good measure...
I did this job a few days ago and here a few observations - I used a motorcycle jack to support both the skid plate for removal and the DEF tank. The DEF tank can be cumbersome if it is relatively full of DEF. The electrical connectors can be a pain to separate, especially if you do not know what type of release mechanism you are working with. Take time to look up the different releases on the web to familiarize yourself with what you are looking at and dealing with. Additionally, 2 of the connectors are on mounts that they slide onto. Familiarize yourself with those types of connections as well. Remove the spare tire - it's worth it for the extra space. With stock suspension, I was able to comfortably sit upright behind the rear axle with my right arm over the differential. This makes it much easier to get to the connectors on top of the DEF tank. Once removed, dump the DEF tank. It's easier to handle upon reinstallation instead of it sloshing all around. Wear safety glasses - there will be plenty of dirt on everything you are removing - no matter how many times you wash your truck. Use a toothbrush to remove all the sand/dirt, etc., around the DEF cap and associated parts. Air blast or vacuum it off before opening the tank, so as to not introduce dirt into the tank. Make sure you replace the two o-rings on the new heater. Very, very lightly coat the outside and inside of the rings with some vaseline or lith grease. Like wise on the nipples of the module. Make sure you do not obstruct the nipples with any grease. This will make the module installation much easier. When putting the connectors back together, they can be a real bitch to get closed - especially if they were dusty. Wipe the contact surfaces. Get the connectors as far together as your hand strength will allow. Then use a small set of channel locks and gently clamp them together until seated. When you are reinstalling the DEF tank, the 2 clips on the truck frame that the bolts fasten to on the rear side of the tank may be loose. If the tank frame jostles them, they may fall down into the space between the DEF tank and its protective holder. Then, you have to take all the electrical apart and lower the tank again to get them out. Ask me how I know.... Best of luck - it took me about 5 hours, going slow.
+James Sterling Thanks for the feedback!
I have a 2011 F250 6.7 King Ranch. Dealer quoted me $1500 to replace DEF send module. Watched this video a couple times, ordered part from 1A Auto. Replaced the unit today myself. Took me about 4 hours, but I was being real careful. Excellent video and I would not hesitate to do it again. Part was a perfect fit and I ended up saving a lot. Thank you!
Want to add: I was working from the ground. Dropping the spare did enable me to get to the connectors easier and I used the Tire Jack to hold the DEF tank in place while removing the bolts and too slowly lower the tank. I did dump about a 1/4 tank of DEF fluid so it was easier (lighter) when reinstalling.
@ 9:48 most important part of this job isn't mentioned. Just before installing the module, install 2 o-rings supplied in the kit with the bunch of plastic caps that don't get used. These orings will keep your truck from throwing a new code, for Reductant Pressure Too Low. I installed 2 DEF heaters last weekend, noticed the rubber parts on the second one. On the first one I was asking myself how it was designed without a gasket between the module and the heater... yea 2 orings that press down into the heater. I will lose a couple hours for those 2 o-rings.
I want to add, my truck didn't do the 50 MPH cutoff either, but the engine was definitely de-rated while this heater wasn't working. Huge power increase after fixing, and MPG's went up as well. This was really unexpected. Hoping for the same on the other truck when I get the o-rings in it.
David Nation well shit. I’ve been looking everywhere to figure out why I’m throwing the pressure to low code. Time to go take it all apart. If they are going to show an install why not show it all?!
Taking a break just after dropping the tank. Trying to figure out how the damn line to the engine comes off lol. And it’s hot in Texas. But also no reduction in speed just threw a code.
I think I ran into same issue... I hear air pumping and the light came back on after being off for 30/40 miles.... is there a good video of this procedure ?
I just got my parts - about to do this job tomorrow am. Thanks for this tip!! Really important to know. I’ll make sure there aren’t any duplicate O rings, and that fresh ones are installed. I also didn’t get the speed limit, maybe that’s because it just hasn’t been cold enough to reduce the flow. Yet. 😆 definitely not taking any trips up the mountain till this is done!
So my low pressure, P20E8 code, came back on both vehicles. I replaced pump (with OEM) on one, primed the pump, verified o-rings and it worked just long enough for me to think it was fixed. So I did the other truck. Then replaced the heater with OEM, then replaced the DEF injector with OEM. Tired of throwing parts at it, appointments at dealer are out over a week or 2 depending on who I call. Pressure sensor is right on the pump. I have a new harness on at the pump. Ready to have it attached to a scan tool and fixed. Anyone else stuck with this low pressure code and get it fixed?
I am doing this for the second time after just one year. I have a 2015 ford f250 super duty 6.7 diesel. The first time I did it was at around 75000 miles. I used a $500 fordmoco original part. It lasted just 10 days past the 1 year warranty. This time I bought a doorman part which has a limited lifetime warranty. (whatever that means, but better than 1 year I hope).
Fantastic explanation of R&R ing this part. The only suggestion I would have to this video is once you have the tank out of the truck, use a compressor with a trigger blow tip to blow off as much dirt off the top of the tank as possible. I noticed some of the dirt possibly getting inside the tank itself during removal of the ring and gasket. One other thing one can do is suction as much of the def outta the tank as possible before starting the the process of removing the tank.
Best video yet of explaining in detail to R&R this DEF part.
Thank you for the great video. One tip, when he is removing the injector line and says "kinda push in" you definitely want to do that. I struggled with that line for a while until I watched the video again and caught the part about pushing in. Once I had the DEF tank out I used a compressor to blow off all the dirt. Before reinstalling the DEF tank I drained it into a bucket. This make re-installation a lot easier if you have more than half a tank of DEF. Then just siphon back into the tank. I wish I had read Timothy Stewart's comment about removing the spare tire first. That would have helped unhook the wiring harness.
Excellent video. I am pretty old and got her done. A couple of suggestions. 1) Get a second set of hands for putting the tank back in as it’s a bit heavy if it has def in it. 2) Before re-install put a zip tie in place to use on the big white plug for use after you plug the two white connectors together. Reason being it’s a son of a gun to put it back on the factory clip(I probably don’t get how I was suppose to do it) so just zip it down. Take a good photo to make sure this cable/plug lays down just as it did from the factory. 3) put control head back on with widgets pointing the same way 4) If the filler next hose is kinky reach in after installed and twist it at the tank as the fitting just rotates on the nipple. 5) Better than a creeper is cardboard, put it down first because you are going to do some slithering. 6) I don’t know the code procedure but before starting the truck I added def, cleared codes, then started the truck. Seems ok now.
Ford manuals need to be thicker but they aren’t, eg replace radiatior at 80k, replace def heater at 90k, replace front axle hub seal at xk....etc! But I love the truck anyway.
Why replace radiator at 80k? As long as coolant isn’t acidic and causing corrosion and buildup it shouldn’t be a problem.
Thanks, worked like a charm. I did remove the spare tire which gave me room to sit up under the truck to reach the connections.
I should have read your comment earlier. I was thinking the same thing while I was trying to unhook the wiring harness.
There's two o-rings under the pump that seat in the top of the heater. Also make sure the fill tube doesn't get twisted when re-installing the tank. Lowering the spare is a great tip for easy access to the top to disconnect the harness from the truck harness.
Good video - it help tremendously, I do recommend that you get the OTC wrench to undo the Lock ring - 66 FT Lbs of Torque. The main connector on top of the bracket is sporty but doable - Take your time and it should be no more than 3.5 hours
+William Fryer Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Just replaced the Reductant heater on my 2012 f350 dually!! Props to the video!!
THANK YOU for a great How-To video. I installed the DEF heater with no problems - however I forgot to check for the rubber o-ring (grommet) between the module (pump) and the DEF heater (two small inlet and return nipples on bottom of module, one uses a rubber o-ring and the other uses a rubber grommet that fits snugly in the DEF heater where the module plugs into the DEF heater then is secured down using the three Allen-head bolts. ) . When I removed the module from the top of the dysfunctional DEF heater, the rubber o-ring stayed in the old DEF heater and I didn't install the new one that was provided. After I completed the DEF heater installation, the truck threw a new code P20E800 "Reductant Pressure too low." I again used your video to remove the DEF tank, install the rubber o-ring and rubber grommet on the fluid inlet/outlet on the module where it plugs into the DEF heater, and now my truck is fixed! Even with removing it twice due to my incompetence, it was still hundreds of dollars cheaper than a dealer, and each install on took about 2.5 hours.
+jdtarpley Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
I just did this to my 2013 F350. Took a total of 2 hours from start to finish. Nice video and I watched a few others as well. This explained it most completely. I used a Milwaukee 3/8" electric ratchet and it sped up the job quite a bit. I'd estimate it saved me 30 to 45 minutes of just turning wrenches. It was easier than I thought it was going to be and somewhat self explanatory after watching several videos. Safety glasses are a must under the truck. I also disposed of the last bit of DEF, flushed the tank, and filled it with fresh DEF. I suspect I got into a bad batch of DEF cause this started at the same time that I tried O'Riley DEF and it caused my truck to regen about every 150 miles. Usually I'm about 2X that. DEF looked clean in the tank though so who knows... Thanks A1!
+Matt Brown Thanks for the comments and suggestions! We appreciate you watching!
He sure knocked a lot of dirt down into the tank.
Mine went bad too. But it runs fine. It’s been on for 4 months now. But I did order the part last week. It’s time to install. This video helps out.
+joe cruz Thank you for your order. If you would like to leave us a review on Google it would be greatly appreciated. Here is a link to our reviews section. Have a great day! goo.gl/i5JFNY
Surprised you don't have derated power. I can clear my code with Forscan and it runs like a scalded dog (like it should) but then next cycle goes back to derated power (not limited to just 50 mph) and CEL on.
Mark Cory yeah , it ran fine. If it wasn’t for a smog check , I don’t think I would of replaced it.
My truck was throwing the DEF reductant heater code, I took it to 2 different parts houses to diagnose it. Both showed the same codes, came here to watch the video and figure out the parts. Took my truck the next day to a jobsite (100 mile trip) and got home late. Next morning my light was off. hasnt come back on since (wood knock)! My truck did 2 consecutive re-gens, one on the trip home and one the next day. ODD?
Yea mine just threw the code. Its been over 100 degrees here in Texas for two straight weeks. I had parked it for a week then took it out for a trip and the code came on. I added a box of DEF even though the low DEF warning has not triggered. I am gonna reset the code and drive it and see if the code will reappear.
good video, but missing some important info... dropping spare helps get access for one... longbeds, the DEF tank is by itself with no need to drop anything around diesel tank. MOST IMPORTANT is#1 ...PRE-CLEAN the ENTIRE top of the DEF tank prior to disassembly to keep dirt OUT of the tank... AND use contact cleaner to FULLY clean all dirt and debris from ALL CONNECTORS.. especially the tan/grey one still on the truck, they get caked with dirt and you will NOT be able to 'click it into place. #2. ALIGNMENT of the DEF heater cap is important... there are marks on top of the unit that you align to the tank... DONT MISS THIS... TAKE A PICTURE! ALSO!! make sure you don;t roll the seal when installing the top of the unit into the tank... it happens and won;t seal.#3... There are (2) o-rings on the top of the unit that MUST be in place prior to reinstalling the DEF pump for a proper seal... don't roll those either.. make sure its seated prior to tightening the (3) 4mm bolts.
So....the base cause for the MIL is the computer doesn't see the scheduled ohms for the heater. Does anyone know if the heater is still working, assuming you're seeing a slightly higher ohms than the computer tolerates and not a dead short/open? If indeed it is still functioning, what prevents you from "adjusting" the ohm value to what the computer expects to see? Thinking outside the box.....
Just FYI, I dropped my DEF tank yesterday after watching video. Very easy to do just be careful when dropping it to the ground, I didn’t notice at the time but my injector hose was not long enough to get to the ground and I snapped the plastic discharge tube to the injector on the sending unit. Cost me an extra $280 to order the replacement. Lessons learned
My 2011 ford f350 truck is in a dealership now for this. Code P20BA high resistance in heating element. Redundant tank leak too? Thanks for this video.
The truck I am working on is a 2013 F350 with 39,000 miles that is garage kept and I have a p205c def heater circuit malfunction and the truck runs great. I can smell the def in the exhaust while running. Will it the truck go into limp mode or is there a chance that it could self clear the code in the ecu and be fine. Thanks everyone!!
Great video! Thanks for the help. Its always nice to know exactly which sockets and tools you need to load on the creeper before you go under the vehicle. I liked the way you did it like a shadetree mechanic would not on a lift. Makes it way more realistic for us.
I have the P20b9 code and I have been running the truck for over 3 years without issue. What can you tell me about that? The heater must work as I've used the cold climates upwards of -30 C.
I have 29 miles until I’m limited to 50 MPH. I had the heater and sender replaced at local shop. And still have the code. Will the code reset on it’s own? If so, when does it reset or how many miles?
Take it to parts store, their scanner can reset codes. and its free.
At time 3:06 there is a rod (I'm guessing a switch) that rotates 180 degrees and clicks when passing 90 degrees. What is this switch for?
Thank you
any scan tool needed to italicize the new parts
In this video, the part about how to loosen the large securing ring that holds the heater on to the DEF tank was not included. Where is the tool and/or how can it get loosened to remove it?
Also, there are 2 different ways to remove the DEF tank, based on whether the cab is a 2 door or 4 door and whether the truck has a short bed or long bed.
question: this code started appearing and I need to go back to Phoenix from LA for Christmas. Ford dealer in LA can't get me in for 3 days...I was told safe to drive to Phoenix. I might have Dealer there who can get it fixed for me while I am there. Is it SAFE to drive the truck from LA to Phoenix? Don't want to damage the engine. But I need the truck to help take family back there if possible. Thanks in advance. And great video.
would this be the same for a 2019? I assume it is since they use the same part up till 2020 but if anyone has more information I'd appreciate it.
When I am done I'll try to remember to give an update.
Question! I have a 2016 Ford F-250 superduty 6.7. My truck is throwing a code for the heater def system. But it’s been that way for over a year and has not gone into limp mode. The check engine light and code came on when I was driving through the deer lease and brush ripped off the fuel filter harness wires. I replaced the harness but not the def heater. I don’t know if the two have anything to do with each other but I was wondering if the wires may have blew a fuse that could cause the def heater to throw a code. I don’t know what the code is exactly. I was told by orielleys it was a hard code and could be reset but would come back on after a short while. Is there anyone that has had this issue and know what to do to clear the code? Is there a fuse that could have blown? If so, where is it located? It also prevents me from using my remote start. Any help would be appreciated. Also, I’m not a mechanic so plain English would help! Lol! Thank you in advance!
My DEF heater quit on me last winter after being frozen solid in extreme overnight temps, but the feared "limping" feature that supposedly restricts you to 50 mph never happened, and I drove it 500 miles at an average of 75 mph with frozen DEF, frozen DEF heater, P20BA code and Service Engine light, all without issue.
+Joseph Stewart Thanks for the feedback!
Great video, I just replaced mine yesterday. Question.... what are the little plastic yellow parts that come with it for? There's nothing in the video about them, I couldn't find anything similar on the old unit, and I can't figure out where they'd go on the new unit?
+Dave Lehl We do apologize we do not have information on that but we will pass it to our production team.
I see a lift in the background,wouldn't it be easier to use the lift?
I've noticed 1A Auto rarely use air tools and lifts also and I believe it is to show us that you can do these jobs with basic tools.
Can I drill a hole in the bed of the truck so I don't have to pull the def tank?
+Mark Cowan That's up to the owner if they want to drill holes in their vehicle
I laughed at first but after thinking about it, we use to make access panels on interiors of race cars so why not cut out a rectangular hole in bed for easy access and then replace with fab'd thicker metal, hand molded panel. Thoughts thoughts.
Just curious, but wouldn't such a part failure fall under the 100K mile powertrain warranty, assuming it failed during that warranty period? Since its an integral part of the drive train?
5 year 100,000 mile
Thank you so much he’ll of a good video
why not drain the tank when you have it off to make it easier to get back onto the truck?
Does this repair require a RE-flash of the computer to clear the code?
Hi I’m in need of some help my truck throw the code P205C I was wondering if this part is what I need to fix thank you in advance
Thanks for the thorough video! I’ve started getting the P20BA fault fairly regularly. Looks like I need to replace the Reductant Heater, but have a trip coming up. With it being summer and in the South (Aug & Sep), what can happen if I just keep topping off DEF and clearing the code for a few more weeks?
This is 1yr after your post, but for others maybe reading this later, when you receive the MIL (some say CEL) on the dash for code P20BA, you will be in a bit of a limp mode, with reduced turbo boost and subsequently reduced power. If you don't need all the power, then the truck drives great and zero concerns, other than the fact that the heater *may not* be heating properly. If it isn't near freezing, technically you could just keep clearing all codes and the truck would drive just like normal. Leave the P20BA on and it's still drivable with no major problems.
I have to do this next week. I think I'll empty the DEF into a bucket after I take it down. That stuff is stanky! Should make install easier as well
+Jeff Collins Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Does anybody have this issue except for my truck ever went into Link mode but now I just have a check engine light saying that the heater is bad on my truck still runs fine
Aren't there 2 heaters in the system? 1 is inline and part of the tube and the other is part of the pump assembly that sits on top of the sending unit that you replaced?
But what do you do to turn the light off,or stop it from blinking?
And for the mileage to get right?
All these damn videos show all this detail regarding the replacement of the reductant heater, BUT NOTHING AFTER THAT, TO STOP THE LIGHT FROM BLINKING AND STOP THE SHUTDOWN PROCESS????!!!!!!?????
I think you get a separate code for the def line, but not 100% sure
I did this process yesterday then on the way home I got the 50 mph limit warning in 50 miles. Obviously I did something wrong. Any ideas where I should look first?
+Gahuntr61 We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Great video! Thx 4 the help!!!
Great video thank you!
wow why didn't you be more careful not to get dirt back in the tank.
If the def heater needs to be replaced and your check engine light comes on...how do you reset the check engine light in your truck after your done the repair?
Take it to your favorite mechanic and have him delete the DPF system off your truck and put a tuner in it. It will never throw that code again you'll gain at least another 200,000 miles on the life of your engine, and your fuel economy will increase by about 5%. On top of that you'll be deleting about 300 lb of garbage from your truck and gaining about 200 horsepower. The DPF system and the EGR system in these trucks carbon soot into your cylinder walls and your oil and your turbo and greatly reduce the life of your truck. The cost of a new DPS system when it goes down will be comfortable to the price you pay to have it deleted and then you will never have an issue again.
Don’t forget to put the o-rings in the valve body in the video he doesn’t show you where they go
You should verified how to test the heater unit
Video was spot on, thank you!
+Skip Streets Thanks for the feedback!
Thank you i will order a def heater from you guy's send a link please
How much do you charge to change the diesel heater?
Is this bad will give a code P21BO ? Thank you.
shouldnt this be covered under warranty ITS EMISSIONS related. Emissions automatically have extended warrantys. I have roughly 25k on a 2016 f350 . And just recent have the p20ba code .? thoughts anyone? My serive dealer is pretty good but that shouldnt be a question is there a TSB on it?
Forgot to mention this resicoir also has the low level probs and can present P203C
+William Fryer Thanks for the feedback!
Always remember to prime the new pump.
How do you prime the new pump?
Can’t find the part on your website???
Great tutorial. Many thanks!!!
+Chad j Thank you!
Just straight pipe it and you wont have to worry about anything def related
Would this part make the truck not crank over ?
The truck will crank and run if this part is bad. If your truck isn’t cranking you have another problem somewhere
i was your web site i try to check if guys have def heater for mercedes benz sprinter van 2500
Hi looks like a easy job I don’t see a link to buy the part
+Dave Jennings Here you are: www.1aauto.com/2011-15-ford-exhaust-fluid-reservoir-heater-dorman-904-372/i/1aemx00338?RUclips&CTA+Comment&SgNy_OutXCY
Easier to do this way or remove the bed?
It would be easier with bed off of you have means, but this isn't horrible.
2016 the main connector is not a retainer stud you can pry off. Unlatch and slide. No skid plate either.
+Tim Timm Thanks for the feedback!
This repair is $1,200 at the dealership.
Jamie Geiken daaaamn
There asking for 1400.00 at mine. Time to be a utube mechanic. Looks like one them repairers first time 5 hrs and a few cuss words. Second time 1hr and 1/2 whistling Dixie
That's better than the 1800 they quoted me
They just extended the warranty yesterday on these, to 11 years or 192,000 kms. Which ever comes first.
+luke pearson Thanks for the feedback!
@@1AAuto I got lucky, I was just about to buy one to replace it and I checked the mail.
Do you have to reset anything after get it done
You should not have to reset anything after you install this part! 1aauto.com
Damn what hassle I would rather delete my 6.7
Should of dropped it halfway then released the nipple harness before u snap it off... that’s fun
I have a 2015 Ford F350 I have been getting a check engine light come up recently it stays on for about a day turns off comes back on bride to a Ford dealership and they said it was the heater in my DEF tank but I still can drive it doesn't do this lower than 50 mile per hour thing at all it's been like this for a month now I live in Wisconsin where it's been really cold they're trying to charge eight hundred and fifty bucks to replace that does anyone on here think that that sounds legit thanks
Thank you for the feedback! +Pucky 76
@Pucky_76 Check out this link... ford.oemdtc.com/3768/customer-satisfaction-program-18m01-reductant-heater-and-sender-assembly-repair-2011-2015-ford-f-super-duty
Same with my truck I drive normally , might have to do this fix my self
Great video thks
+Tim Dillow Thanks for checking us out, glad you enjoyed the video! 1aauto.com
It’s super easy to change under the truck. I also didn’t need anybody to help lift the bed. Took 30 mins maybe
+Adam SULLIVAN Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair, we carry the auto repair part shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them www.1aauto.com/2011-15-ford-exhaust-fluid-reservoir-heater-dorman-904-372/i/1aemx00338?RUclips&CTA+Comment&SgNy_OutXCY
1A Auto Parts and it’s much cheaper than the dealer!!!
1A Auto Parts what's the trick to get the first wiring connection undone. Tried a couple times and didn't want to break anything. Any special clips tools or just old fashion wiggle and pull.
Seriously if you search DEF heater at 1A Auto it says 'not found'
We could not find any parts matching "DEF reductant heater" for your vehicle, but we have many other great parts for your vehicle. Please select a category below.
With the amount of likes you got , this seems to be a common problem. Maybe Ford needs to work on a " Better Idea" for this one.
Thanks for the pricy lemon trucks Ford.
wear some safety glasses!!!! Never get under the vehicle with unprotected eyes unless you got a spare set somewhere. Thanks for the video.
Excellent advise ! . Twice a victim -which also qualifies me as Knuckle Head!
@@andresmejia7741 because it's a ford!!!
Wish the video showed how the hell you unscrew the retaining ring on top.
+fahrphrompuken Thanks for the feedback!
Couple wraps with a ratchet strap, and sinch it up, then turn with the strap handle.
Attention everyone here, look into the recent warranty extension for the DEF heater... Ford may refund you your money for the replacement.
I removed my bed and it was a simple job
How hard of a task was removing the bed? Time? I was thinking the same
I never put that skid plate back in total waste of a part does nothing but weigh down the truck
Someone wanted to be a disc jockey instead of a video editor, why in the world would you put music in a video like this with ambient noise and louder than the constant narration? Kinda stupid hey? I need one but won't be buying from A1 Auto because of that alone.
Just delete it truck will run better
Yeah, what about the fault that slowed the truck to 50 mph? Installing the new heater clear the fault? Nothing mentioned about this. Thumbs down bro.👎
Just delete the truck smh
Just stop being ignorant. smh. There's people who would like to keep their truck stock, but for a bigger group, there are people who live in areas where they require emissions testing, including myself. So deleting is not an option.
Actually very easy first March on Washington take back your freedom 2nd happily go home now free and remove exhaust def never reinstall trucks better plants are happy more carbon that they use to make oxygen