Thank you Richard for this video. I'm am by no means a electronic tec but after watching your video and following your instructions I have fixed our TV. Thank you thank you. 👍👍👍👍
Hello Sir Richard Rudek .. am from Malaysia i really enjoyed your video your video step by step has make me feel better now i do same like you did to fix mine tv now it is working more better
Dear Richard,since last night we have problem with our LG TV 42LW579S.Our Screen is Black and Power LED blink red.... we cant see anything, no sound and nothing.What can we do it? Can we do it your Part 3 Program ?Thank ypu for your answer.BR Waran
Hello Richard, I need help from you to solve the following problem.The led indicator from the start when I put the power cable in 220 volts, the indicator lights red then white and then again red and then turn off, no any lights on indicator.When I use the remote control to turn on the tv on power button, the indicator lights red (the rele it is turn on) then indicator lights white and then white lights blinks once and stands in that position, there is not picture on screen.I have checked all outputs from the power board and they are ok. Can the problem my be the same as you solve it in this video presentation, I mean on the processor?
I recommend you search for the Service Manual *[1]*, then check all of the Voltage rails on the main board. I won't list them all, but here are some I saw in the schematic: 0.9V_CORE_BCM35230 +2.5V_BCM35230 +3.3V_NORMAL +1.5V_DDR +5V_Normal ... etc. Yes, it was unfortunate that I did not record, nor mention those Voltage checks I made before using the serial interface commands. I should probably clean the workbench, setup the TV, record that, and then insert the video at the appropriate point video series. We'll see. Good luck. *[1]* When I say search, I mean that in some countries, you're technically breaking the law acquiring copyrighted, perhaps even stolen material like that. So I'm not going to direct you. I feel, however, you should also have the right to this information, without cost. You paid a premium for the gear, so you should have got this already along with the operators manual. The criminal acts, I feel, occurred at the purchase of time...
Mr Richard thank you very much for your excellent video I have the same problem with a tv LG 47LW5700 the power LED only blinks medi all the voltages of the source are ok I would like to know what temperature works with the heat gun in those five minutes of heating .... greetings from Venezuela and Happy New Year
_Just to clear, it appears that the problems fixed by heating this BGA chip are due to failures within the BGA package. That's the only thing that explains the results, given the methods used. In other words, the chip has failed, not it's attachment to main board PCB._ OK, so the Butane tool (obviously?) is only vaguely Temperature controlled. *You* control the temperature by both the rate at which to burn the fuel (Butane, LPG, whatever), the distance from the subject, and the movements of the exhaust upon the subject. The Thermal-mass and the rate at which the subject sinks away the heat, also determines the temperature achieved, and indeed the thermal gradients from the heat sources (hot) and the heat sinks (cold). - Large thermal gradients are bad. Eg pouring hot water into an ice cold glass. - The "subject" is the thing your heating. So the short answer is, FIIK. It's a black-art. I did add a piece of solder to the top in the hopes that would be a good indicator of the packages temperature. But as soon as you blow the exhaust upon it, it melts and balls-up. In my case, blows away. After that happens, you have to guess. If you were going to do this properly, you could add temperature probes (plural), on the package and the PCB. But you have to be extremely aware of the hot-air\exhaust. For example, when I first tested the Butane tool, I directed the exhaust onto my temperature probe for a couple seconds or so, and was shocked at the rate the temperature rose above 400 Degrees Celsius. In other words, I pulled it away rather quickly, and did not get a reading. Then I searched the Wikipedia article, and that suggested that Butane burns in excess of 1900 Degrees Celsius - slaps forehead, for not checking this, beforehand...
This is a terrible way to "reflow" a BGA of this size and kind. It's not reflowing, really, it is merely expanding the balls so a contact is made; it'll fail within days or weeks and if anyone says they're happily running for months I simply won't believe them - been there, done that one too many times to take anyone's word. The only application of manual hot air "reflow" is with very small ICs like RAM chips where the area is so small and device is so thin and balls, accordingly, so little, that heat can get through the device to them and melt them while actually still providing enough heat to allow melt of the solder on the pads - something which simply won't happen with the 35230 and the air blower from this video. No hard feelings, the videos are without a doubt educational to many; still this is the wrong way to repair the problem, even though it would look like it works for a while.
Hello Sir Richard Rudek ... I speak from Chile I saw the video step by step and I even proceeded to reflow ... the TV turned on but only once and returned to the standby light that solution can give me or what problem could be a greeting And many thanks for your videos are a lot of help!
So I'm guessing that you could not read it across the top of the Meter. It's a Tenma 72-7730A (from Element14). Basically, it's a re-brand of a UniT UT71B, but with upgraded fuses, etc. Plus I get "real" warranty and consumer protection having bought it from a Bricks and Mortar Vendor, here in Australia. Just in case.
+Mara Cristina Criação a minha tv esta funcionando ja tem um mês ou mais, vou ver se encontro o vídeo aqui e te mando o link. Porém do geito que esta no vídeo estraguei uma placa. por sorte um técnico que eu levei pra concertar a tv. tinha uma com defeito e me deu. se passar muito tempo no forno os componentes eletrônicos se soltam da placa ai já era.
*Seven times ?!* Maybe the problem is not (was not) that chip. You have to *think*, not follow. If you do not have the skills to read the schematics and diagnose, then should not be trying to *fix* the main board. Instead you should think about *buying a replacement*. But even than, are you sure that is the *only* problem ? Remember, *sometimes it's not worth fixing*. The fact that you have to ask tells me that you do not have the expeience to be successful. You must practice on something a lot easier than this vary large BGA chip. This BGA has 656 balls at a pitch of 0.8mm. Very hard to do without damage. I would *not* even try. For reference, here is an example of what you need. But more importantly it shows how it does not always work, regardless of whether you have the right equipment: Linus Attempts BGA Graphics Chip Repair! - Rossmann Repair Group, New York City ruclips.net/video/Shn7LdIrViQ/видео.html Lots of trouble with little success.
Thank you Richard for this video. I'm am by no means a electronic tec but after watching your video and following your instructions I have fixed our TV. Thank you thank you. 👍👍👍👍
Cool. Thank you for watching.
Hello Sir Richard Rudek .. am from Malaysia i really enjoyed your video your video step by step has make me feel better now i do same like you did to fix mine tv now it is working more better
Thanks, it's work at my LG 42LW5700 but i baked the main board in 200°C in 10 minutes. Thank you very much sir
Dear Richard,since last night we have problem with our LG TV 42LW579S.Our Screen is Black and Power LED blink red.... we cant see anything, no sound and nothing.What can we do it? Can we do it your Part 3 Program ?Thank ypu for your answer.BR Waran
Hello Richard,
I need help from you to solve the following problem.The led indicator from the start when I put the power cable in 220 volts, the indicator lights red then white and then again red and then turn off, no any lights on indicator.When I use the remote control to turn on the tv on power button, the indicator lights red (the rele it is turn on) then indicator lights white and then white lights blinks once and stands in that position, there is not picture on screen.I have checked all outputs from the power board and they are ok. Can the problem my be the same as you solve it in this video presentation, I mean on the processor?
I recommend you search for the Service Manual *[1]*, then check all of the Voltage rails on the main board. I won't list them all, but here are some I saw in the schematic:
0.9V_CORE_BCM35230
+2.5V_BCM35230
+3.3V_NORMAL
+1.5V_DDR
+5V_Normal
...
etc.
Yes, it was unfortunate that I did not record, nor mention those Voltage checks I made before using the serial interface commands. I should probably clean the workbench, setup the TV, record that, and then insert the video at the appropriate point video series. We'll see.
Good luck.
*[1]* When I say search, I mean that in some countries, you're technically breaking the law acquiring copyrighted, perhaps even stolen material like that. So I'm not going to direct you. I feel, however, you should also have the right to this information, without cost. You paid a premium for the gear, so you should have got this already along with the operators manual. The criminal acts, I feel, occurred at the purchase of time...
Hello Richard, I have fix the problem with the way as you fix it on your video. Thanks for your support.
Br,Pavle,
Mr Richard thank you very much for your excellent video I have the same problem with a tv LG 47LW5700 the power LED only blinks medi all the voltages of the source are ok I would like to know what temperature works with the heat gun in those five minutes of heating .... greetings from Venezuela and Happy New Year
_Just to clear, it appears that the problems fixed by heating this BGA chip are due to failures within the BGA package. That's the only thing that explains the results, given the methods used. In other words, the chip has failed, not it's attachment to main board PCB._
OK, so the Butane tool (obviously?) is only vaguely Temperature controlled. *You* control the temperature by both the rate at which to burn the fuel (Butane, LPG, whatever), the distance from the subject, and the movements of the exhaust upon the subject. The Thermal-mass and the rate at which the subject sinks away the heat, also determines the temperature achieved, and indeed the thermal gradients from the heat sources (hot) and the heat sinks (cold).
- Large thermal gradients are bad. Eg pouring hot water into an ice cold glass.
- The "subject" is the thing your heating.
So the short answer is, FIIK. It's a black-art.
I did add a piece of solder to the top in the hopes that would be a good indicator of the packages temperature. But as soon as you blow the exhaust upon it, it melts and balls-up. In my case, blows away. After that happens, you have to guess.
If you were going to do this properly, you could add temperature probes (plural), on the package and the PCB. But you have to be extremely aware of the hot-air\exhaust.
For example, when I first tested the Butane tool, I directed the exhaust onto my temperature probe for a couple seconds or so, and was shocked at the rate the temperature rose above 400 Degrees Celsius. In other words, I pulled it away rather quickly, and did not get a reading. Then I searched the Wikipedia article, and that suggested that Butane burns in excess of 1900 Degrees Celsius - slaps forehead, for not checking this, beforehand...
This is a terrible way to "reflow" a BGA of this size and kind. It's not reflowing, really, it is merely expanding the balls so a contact is made; it'll fail within days or weeks and if anyone says they're happily running for months I simply won't believe them - been there, done that one too many times to take anyone's word. The only application of manual hot air "reflow" is with very small ICs like RAM chips where the area is so small and device is so thin and balls, accordingly, so little, that heat can get through the device to them and melt them while actually still providing enough heat to allow melt of the solder on the pads - something which simply won't happen with the 35230 and the air blower from this video.
No hard feelings, the videos are without a doubt educational to many; still this is the wrong way to repair the problem, even though it would look like it works for a while.
AMEN!
its work on my tv. big big thanks ...................
Thank you. the video very helpful
Your welcome.
Hello Sir Richard Rudek ... I speak from Chile I saw the video step by step and I even proceeded to reflow ... the TV turned on but only once and returned to the standby light that solution can give me or what problem could be a greeting And many thanks for your videos are a lot of help!
Nice video, how long has this repair lasted?
What is the model of multimeter?
So I'm guessing that you could not read it across the top of the Meter. It's a Tenma 72-7730A (from Element14). Basically, it's a re-brand of a UniT UT71B, but with upgraded fuses, etc.
Plus I get "real" warranty and consumer protection having bought it from a Bricks and Mortar Vendor, here in Australia. Just in case.
this solution need a best disipation with a write cream termic because to future the problem return
infelizmente seu vídeo é em inglês e não entendo nada, tenho uma smartv desta com problema. Talvez seu vídeo podesse me ajudar.
Lucinaldo_vieira Lucinaldo82 achou uma solução ? estou com o mesmo problema
+Mara Cristina Criação achei sim
+Mara Cristina Criação colocar a placa principal no forno em fogo baixo pro 10 minutos, deixar esfriar e recolocar na tv. Depois correr pro Abraço
+Mara Cristina Criação a minha tv esta funcionando ja tem um mês ou mais, vou ver se encontro o vídeo aqui e te mando o link. Porém do geito que esta no vídeo estraguei uma placa. por sorte um técnico que eu levei pra concertar a tv. tinha uma com defeito e me deu. se passar muito tempo no forno os componentes eletrônicos se soltam da placa ai já era.
tá bom, aguardo!
how to remove it for for ic xd was seventh time to heat it
*Seven times ?!*
Maybe the problem is not (was not) that chip.
You have to *think*, not follow. If you do not have the skills to read the schematics and diagnose, then should not be trying to *fix* the main board. Instead you should think about *buying a replacement*. But even than, are you sure that is the *only* problem ?
Remember, *sometimes it's not worth fixing*.
The fact that you have to ask tells me that you do not have the expeience to be successful. You must practice on something a lot easier than this vary large BGA chip. This BGA has 656 balls at a pitch of 0.8mm. Very hard to do without damage. I would *not* even try.
For reference, here is an example of what you need. But more importantly it shows how it does not always work, regardless of whether you have the right equipment:
Linus Attempts BGA Graphics Chip Repair! - Rossmann Repair Group, New York City
ruclips.net/video/Shn7LdIrViQ/видео.html
Lots of trouble with little success.
its work :))
Que el Santo de Israel DIOS TODOPODEROSO te Bendiga grandemente y a su familia, este video ha sido de gran bendicion para mi. Mil gracias!!