I am IPC Certified and work for a major airline repairing avionic components Tips for soldering: #1 Tin your iron when your are done, this means add a little solder to the tip before you turn the iron off, this helps prevent oxidation on the tip and which makes heat transfer to the board a lot better. #2 when you are soldering in the wires try and make a loop and put them in the holes then add enough solder so that there is a small fillet from the lead of any joint to the pad the solder is sticking to, the shape should look similar to a cone but it is curved inward doing so will make the joints last longer and make it so you never have to solder anything back on. #3 Try and find 63/37 lead/tin solder, it heats well and cools better and faster which will keep your joints in place longer. #4 look for any stray solder beads and also look for cracked or cold solder joints. A simple google search can show you an example of such. #5 be careful with how much heat you are using, if you use too much heat you can delaminate the layers of the boards and that can destroy the boats. A good temperature is 600-700F favoring the lower number because it will make your soldering iron last longer. If you need any other advice or need help just DM me
Quick note on soldering: The solder wicks towards the heat (towards the tip of your iron). If you have a big pad to do, try applying heat to one side of pad, then move around wire to the other side and apply solder to the heated side you just left. If it is hot enough to melt properly it should flow across pad and wire towards the iron. This should give you more consistent coverage without trying to wipe with the iron like a paintbrush. Thanks for making this video; it is fun to watch!
Or just buy a desoldering gun or a solder sucker… solder wick sucks ass and you’re likely to just dead the thing with it more than actually removing the solder.
Multiple things: 1) using a PCB holder/bracket to do the soldering is IMMENSLY helpful 2) fluxing the pads prior to tinning makes the heating and tinning process quicker thus reducing the amount of heat dropped in to the board 3) cleaning and tinning your soldering iron prior to actually doing the work makes the work easier while maximizing heatflow in to the solder which reducing the likelihood of creating cold joints 4) when using lead solder, ABSOLUTELY use some means of ventilation. Lead SOOOO bad for you.
@Dogwillhunt dognutt....... ocean is salty you need to rinse off after sooooo no i live 2 blocks from ocean no swimming bums that i can see but tons of bums peeing and pooping on the beach yay
I really like how your explain stuff for beginners. Every single video out there they expect us to know everything and throw all of those terms out there without explanation. Thank you
As of today, this is $388 but some of the components are on sale. Additionally it would be cheaper if you already bought some of these. For example, the link has you buy a whole set of nylon standoffs but you only need four for this build. The antennas come in a pack of two etc
The holes in the pc board are there to put in a tinned piece of wire in to be soldiered correctly, not to fill up with a big blob of soldier and short out your board.
I've watched several builds from different channels and I was wondering if anyone knew you can insert the wires into those holes and still solder them down. FYI, 20 years Navy Electronic Repair Technician now an Electrical Engineer, just in case someone wanted to comment that I was talking out my butt.
0 qualifications here so don't take me at my word, but I find if you put the wires through the holes and solder, the 90° bend with pre-stress the joint and make it more likely to break. Also, it's just much easier to solder to the pad horizontally for me.
Yooo no way for the past week I have been searching for tutorials and build guides and i saw your older videos and was hoping for an update perfect timing.
@@lonewolftechyeah...piss off with that mindset! there are so many cheaper second hand options on ebay and if a lower quality board means someone getting into the hobby then it's a net positive!
@@lonewolftech You think $170 just for a ESC is budget? have you always been this stupid? You get a good quality STM32 Mamba Stack with the ESC under $80, Google "MAMBA Stack MK5 F435", costs $40 with a 55A 6S ESC. If you think you need to spend $170 for the same ESC when buying from somewhere else. You really are very bad at financial management, and for your case, you might need a career change. as you aren't that smart with money. For reference, the Stack used in the video is "MAMBA Stack MK3 F405" 22:53, the upgraded MK4 costs $42. and you want to spend $170 for the same and call it budget? mind blown.
If you use the pinout diagrams and blueprints, I highly recommend laminating them (can buy easy sheets from Staples etc) and making a binder ring to hold them all and just leave them on your desk. It's nice having those references rather than always having it up on PC screen when doing 19 other things on PC. This is how I was doing it in my robotics degree.
A lot of people don't know you get can other soldering tips. I recommend having a very fine tip, the regular tip in this video, and a chisel tip that's flat for wider surfaces. I use those the most.
The idea with soldering, for those who don't know, is transfer of heat. You need the copper plating to be hotter than the iron so the solder attracts to the copper pad and away from the soldering iron. If you don't heat the copper pad up enough and you pull the iron tip away, the solder will follow the tip. It helps to heat the copper pad up first momentarily, then add your solder and wire immediately after, so you don't have to hold it in place for so long, because the solder melts quickly but it steals a lot of the soldering iron heat so it doesn't transfer as fast to the copper plating on the PCB. Heat the copper up first.
I like a 2 irons setup - one with a flat tip - one point. Wide is just to heat the wire and tab just enough to prime them with soldier. Then do the fine work and clean up with the point. That keeps me from, over heating the board. It also heats everything evenly faster, with less hot spots. Also, good soldier and flux matters. ESP. when you start out.
Capacitor fitment is quite unfortunate. Legs of capacitor should be in thermo isolation. Cut out in frame and not isolated capacitor legs makes it perfect spot to be shortened by wet grass. Ideally + / - ESC pads should be painted with fluid isolation as they are prone to be shortened in same spot where the cut out is.
Great video! I found that using vcc rather than the 9 volt pad on the vtx gave me alot better performance with the tank . from everything I have read they cant take all the voltage you can throw at them.
This is really enjoyable to watch. Please don't take this the wrong way but you need to do a soldering course, your soldering had the hairs on my neck standing up.
Instead or soldering right to left or left to right, wouldn't it be better to advise beginners to work on the soldering pads from the outside and not from the inside on the fc? That way there is less chance of dropping a solder blob on the components from the tip of the iron. I have had shorts because of this. Luckily my shortsaver gave me a heads up and I didn't directly plug in a LiPo. Also, changing the tip to a flatter and larger one will save a lot of effort when soldering the Xt60 and the motor wires! Also a lot less contact time between the soldering iron and the solder pads. I almost lifted a pad because of contact for too long with a small tip!
cool guide! one thing to mention.. get a bigger soldering tip for connections like the XT60 connector or the ESC pads :D And..sometimes soldering flux is just nice to have (even if the solder itself has some flux core inside) But that's some first-world-problems and not must-have.
Retired now so decided to learn about Drones. Loved your video. Very informative. (I would have placed a small strip of Sellotape on you diagram paper.) - :)
this is a really good tutorial video. everything is nicely explained and you even did some mistakes. it shows that it doesn't have to be perfect. some people are afraid of doing things like this cause they don't want to mess up
Story of my life, I want it to be perfect and I doubt my ability for the quality needed in the details so I just don’t try…horrible outlook, trying to break that habit.
My Mamba stack flies just as well as any of my F7 flight controllers. The 35a Mamba ESC in my 4 inch has been running for months with no problems at all.
Adding a capacitor to a modern 4in1, even on 6s, is in my opinion so much overkill. (most of them run 2-4000 uF low ESR smd caps already built in) Plus - by using the throughhole package you always risk a short on your bat voltage ... frying everything - even if you shrinkwrap the little legs/clearcoat it. If you want smoothing for voltage spikes I would suggest buying a small PCB board which comes in many different uF - values instead of the big ones with exposed spiny metal legs. :D
Can you list the items which might be required if I want to use DJI Air O3 Air unit? I just want to order them and then go over your video again and get in to more details. Humayun Qureshi
Beautiful build, Sam! Nicely done! 😃 About screws, you can never have enough of them! It's like clamps for woodworkers. 😬 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Hello, I’m new in drone, so I have a lot to learn, after the drone was built, how to connect a controller ? What controller do you use for this drone ? Thanks crew
if you get yourself a little set of soldering clamps, holding the board vertical and bringing your wires in from the back. this would pull excess solder through and clean up your joint.
Awesome build bro, thanks for the easy steps of how to build your own quad . I will definitely be using this video to build my drone . I have few people to help me but their too busy, so I guess I got to doit by myself. Thanks again dude 😎👍
This is amazing. I really want to build my own, i'm sick and tired of DJI's fly software thinks im in a no-fly zone because I live near a disused airfield that hasn't been used since WW2. I've written to DJI about it but they don't care one iota.
Geez, use some flux on those solder points, man! :) Especially in a high vibration environment, it will decrease the risk of having a bad or cold solder joint
Has been building quads for 4 years, still solders like a beginner. Needs a new tip, use helping hands, add a dab of flux to the pcb pads, start with less solder before making blobs(don’t make giant blobs, small is fine).
This soldering technic it hurts my soul... Strip the wires, apply some solder on them. Then put those wires trought that hole, apply flux (liquid ones are the best for this kind of soldering) then ad just a tiny bit of solder on solderiong point. Yep it will still work, sometimes i do same as u if i have to solder somthing in the air, and dont have anyone and anything ("third arm") to help me out. But it wuld safe some pain in the ass sometimes (less of the chance for shortage between the pins) and looks more elegant.
ESC's are much cleaner. FC software and hardware has improved at least 2x.. frame design is on another level. Motors just power and size. Propellers also have seen a huge improvement since the zmr250 days.
Great video! I was wondering, I have this old remote KDS K-7XII and receiver K-8X, 2.4G 8Ch, is it possible to control a drone like this with this remote and receiver? Is it possible to make it work with Mamba stack? Thanks.
Will there be a part 2 where you get it programmed and ready to fly? I'm confident in putting it together, but I have no idea how to get it in the air after I build it. Only thing keeping be from doing this
Not the same guy but there are plenty of videos on youtube explaining how to set up the firmware and configure it. You should have a look at betaflight :)
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
FC & ESC: bit.ly/3xEs15d
iFlight Frame: bit.ly/2FtWexy
VTX: bit.ly/32ULxgd
Antennas: bit.ly/2Sk5d6D
Motor Wrap: bit.ly/3chFGUf
Nylon Stands: bit.ly/3iHDsk6
FPV camera: bit.ly/3uaOJzU
Motors: amaxshop.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=68_69&product_id=488
Budget Motors: bit.ly/3vzSwXO
Budget VTX: bit.ly/2QKX3b4
Budget FPV Camera: bit.ly/2QDK7Uw
Tools:
Hex Drivers: bit.ly/33EGTDN
Hemostat: bit.ly/3nxCXg4
Solder Iron Recommended: bit.ly/34B2FYd
Silicon Pad: bit.ly/36JrTGv
Hello, I send you an email, can you please answer for it
That link for the hex tool is not what is in your video...
Links don’t work 😔
Deliberately wrong hex tool link, why?
Pet
8
Pp
Kio9i
I am IPC Certified and work for a major airline repairing avionic components Tips for soldering:
#1 Tin your iron when your are done, this means add a little solder to the tip before you turn the iron off, this helps prevent oxidation on the tip and which makes heat transfer to the board a lot better.
#2 when you are soldering in the wires try and make a loop and put them in the holes then add enough solder so that there is a small fillet from the lead of any joint to the pad the solder is sticking to, the shape should look similar to a cone but it is curved inward doing so will make the joints last longer and make it so you never have to solder anything back on.
#3 Try and find 63/37 lead/tin solder, it heats well and cools better and faster which will keep your joints in place longer.
#4 look for any stray solder beads and also look for cracked or cold solder joints. A simple google search can show you an example of such.
#5 be careful with how much heat you are using, if you use too much heat you can delaminate the layers of the boards and that can destroy the boats. A good temperature is 600-700F favoring the lower number because it will make your soldering iron last longer.
If you need any other advice or need help just DM me
maybe use flux too
Quick note on soldering: The solder wicks towards the heat (towards the tip of your iron). If you have a big pad to do, try applying heat to one side of pad, then move around wire to the other side and apply solder to the heated side you just left. If it is hot enough to melt properly it should flow across pad and wire towards the iron. This should give you more consistent coverage without trying to wipe with the iron like a paintbrush. Thanks for making this video; it is fun to watch!
Or just buy a desoldering gun or a solder sucker… solder wick sucks ass and you’re likely to just dead the thing with it more than actually removing the solder.
@@lonewolftech i accidentally soldered my wick to the board :(
Multiple things: 1) using a PCB holder/bracket to do the soldering is IMMENSLY helpful 2) fluxing the pads prior to tinning makes the heating and tinning process quicker thus reducing the amount of heat dropped in to the board 3) cleaning and tinning your soldering iron prior to actually doing the work makes the work easier while maximizing heatflow in to the solder which reducing the likelihood of creating cold joints 4) when using lead solder, ABSOLUTELY use some means of ventilation. Lead SOOOO bad for you.
This build isn’t even worth it now, damn economy
@@sethenewman4309yes it is 😂 broke ass go find a better paying job!
i love watching things i cant buy
edit: 900 likes damn
@Dogwillhunt orrr… it could be a kid 😕
Or maybe mom's little boy..
@Dogwillhunt or they're a kid bro
@Dogwillhunt or I'm not from US and minimum monthly salary here is 220$
@Dogwillhunt dognutt....... ocean is salty you need to rinse off after sooooo no i live 2 blocks from ocean no swimming bums that i can see but tons of bums peeing and pooping on the beach yay
I really like how your explain stuff for beginners. Every single video out there they expect us to know everything and throw all of those terms out there without explanation. Thank you
As of today, this is $388 but some of the components are on sale.
Additionally it would be cheaper if you already bought some of these. For example, the link has you buy a whole set of nylon standoffs but you only need four for this build. The antennas come in a pack of two etc
The chip shortage really bumped up and made economical parts premium :(
388 is not a budget build
The holes in the pc board are there to put in a tinned piece of wire in to be soldiered correctly, not to fill up with a big blob of soldier and short out your board.
Maybe the wire couldn't go through so he did it as a SMD
it hrut me to watch too lol
But like still a great vid
I kept wondering why he was doing this. So bad. Just don't solder this way.
I just watched the video, and cringed. I doubt he used any static protection either.
I've watched several builds from different channels and I was wondering if anyone knew you can insert the wires into those holes and still solder them down. FYI, 20 years Navy Electronic Repair Technician now an Electrical Engineer, just in case someone wanted to comment that I was talking out my butt.
I was thinking the same thing - it's going to be vibrating a lot, so you need all the mechanical strength you can get.
Yes, better make it through holes.
0 qualifications here so don't take me at my word, but I find if you put the wires through the holes and solder, the 90° bend with pre-stress the joint and make it more likely to break. Also, it's just much easier to solder to the pad horizontally for me.
@@merseyviking strength isn't a problem, but using the through holes will give a way cleaner connection with less solder
This was why i looked at the comments. Was confused why he wasnt using the holes. Ya know like every piece of electronics ive ever seen?
Yooo no way for the past week I have been searching for tutorials and build guides and i saw your older videos and was hoping for an update perfect timing.
With this exact config, what kind of range and battery life could you expect?
Me: "Budget, ooh I'll watch that"
Also Me: Clicks first link, ESC $170+..."yep nope"
That is budget… if you can’t afford that you need a career change immediately!
@@lonewolftechyeah...piss off with that mindset! there are so many cheaper second hand options on ebay and if a lower quality board means someone getting into the hobby then it's a net positive!
@@lonewolftechcareer change!?😂 Calm down captain maverick I just want it for fun
@@lonewolftechwhat a stupid comment
@@lonewolftech You think $170 just for a ESC is budget? have you always been this stupid?
You get a good quality STM32 Mamba Stack with the ESC under $80, Google "MAMBA Stack MK5 F435", costs $40 with a 55A 6S ESC. If you think you need to spend $170 for the same ESC when buying from somewhere else. You really are very bad at financial management, and for your case, you might need a career change. as you aren't that smart with money.
For reference, the Stack used in the video is "MAMBA Stack MK3 F405" 22:53, the upgraded MK4 costs $42. and you want to spend $170 for the same and call it budget? mind blown.
Which battery should I get that could ship to America?
How good is this in 2024? And any idea what the total cost would be?
Thank you Dronemesh!, my first drone was made using one of your guides. Direct to the point. Cheers!!
Keep building and flying, dude! 🖖😊
hey bro how much did it cost you in total everything included?
@@eminent8633 everything is in the description. Go check, click on the links and add it up.
Where is part 2 to this video? I'd love to hear about the software and configuration part
The connector for the Antenna at back of Quad is a SMA Jack, The MMCX connector is the one that connects the pigtail to back of VTX x
If you use the pinout diagrams and blueprints, I highly recommend laminating them (can buy easy sheets from Staples etc) and making a binder ring to hold them all and just leave them on your desk. It's nice having those references rather than always having it up on PC screen when doing 19 other things on PC. This is how I was doing it in my robotics degree.
when will second video about this build came out?
@23:10, what you are pointing to looks like an SMA connector, where as the board side has an mmcx.
CONGRATS YOU WERE RANDOMLY SELECTED FOR THE DRONE GIVEAWAY QUICKLY INBOX ABOVE👆TO CLAIM.
is this build better than sector 5 v3 or nazgul 5? Almost same price, whats the benefits of this custom build. Peace✌️
It's far more expensive
The links in the pinned comment more than half of them are not available anymore. Can you update that list?
this channel is underrated :) thanks for vid
5:30 it’s hard to see but you’re dripping the solder onto the pad not touching it with your heating element, right? Thanks.
You missed the most important thing: how much will it cost ?
for that drone Is something like 180$
Thank you, I have a lot to learn but folks like you are so helpful and the real reason why I started to use RUclips to begin with. Saving the video.
CONGRATS YOU WERE RANDOMLY SELECTED FOR THE DRONE GIVEAWAY QUICKLY INBOX ABOVE👆TO CLAIM.
I have been searching for something like this for a looooong time. Perfect video
what receiver is he using tho ?????? the one in the left near the green things 0:14
So what battery do you use on this? Thanks for making these videos
I would like to know too
What about the reciver can we get a link for purchase please
finally, we are waiting for the update
A lot of people don't know you get can other soldering tips. I recommend having a very fine tip, the regular tip in this video, and a chisel tip that's flat for wider surfaces. I use those the most.
The idea with soldering, for those who don't know, is transfer of heat. You need the copper plating to be hotter than the iron so the solder attracts to the copper pad and away from the soldering iron. If you don't heat the copper pad up enough and you pull the iron tip away, the solder will follow the tip. It helps to heat the copper pad up first momentarily, then add your solder and wire immediately after, so you don't have to hold it in place for so long, because the solder melts quickly but it steals a lot of the soldering iron heat so it doesn't transfer as fast to the copper plating on the PCB. Heat the copper up first.
the best explanation so far
What stupid Name is that ☠️
@@notabhi01 I wouldnt talk if I were you
I like a 2 irons setup - one with a flat tip - one point. Wide is just to heat the wire and tab just enough to prime them with soldier. Then do the fine work and clean up with the point. That keeps me from, over heating the board. It also heats everything evenly faster, with less hot spots.
Also, good soldier and flux matters. ESP. when you start out.
Capacitor fitment is quite unfortunate. Legs of capacitor should be in thermo isolation. Cut out in frame and not isolated capacitor legs makes it perfect spot to be shortened by wet grass. Ideally + / - ESC pads should be painted with fluid isolation as they are prone to be shortened in same spot where the cut out is.
i was allways tought to not hold the solder too long but this dude is taking his time15:58
Great video! I found that using vcc rather than the 9 volt pad on the vtx gave me alot better performance with the tank . from everything I have read they cant take all the voltage you can throw at them.
Hi Jim , So should I use the vcc pad instead of the 9v pad on the vtx? Would that be better ?
@@AdrenalineAshRC use 9v if it works fine and u get the full power 800mw then leave it. If you don't then move it to vcc
@@AdrenalineAshRC make sure the vtx you are using is rated for vcc. the tank he used in the video is.
@@jimlibey4042 thanks a lot bro 😎 really appreciate your help 🙏🏻
This is really enjoyable to watch. Please don't take this the wrong way but you need to do a soldering course, your soldering had the hairs on my neck standing up.
I think you are the Bob Ross of FPV 🤣 🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼
18:53 use flux so you'll get perfect penetration going through all the holes, same with the +/- wires, soldering is horrible
Congrats 🎊 you won a DRONE PRIZE. I hope you like the prize and thanks so much for commenting. Quickly inbox above for it Good luck👍...
FINALLY! A new 2021 drone build!
Can I us ts835 with my 250mm quad??? Pls say I have already ordered
Instead or soldering right to left or left to right, wouldn't it be better to advise beginners to work on the soldering pads from the outside and not from the inside on the fc?
That way there is less chance of dropping a solder blob on the components from the tip of the iron. I have had shorts because of this. Luckily my shortsaver gave me a heads up and I didn't directly plug in a LiPo.
Also, changing the tip to a flatter and larger one will save a lot of effort when soldering the Xt60 and the motor wires! Also a lot less contact time between the soldering iron and the solder pads. I almost lifted a pad because of contact for too long with a small tip!
Thanks for putting this video out. I especially appreciate your soldering tips!
cool guide! one thing to mention.. get a bigger soldering tip for connections like the XT60 connector or the ESC pads :D
And..sometimes soldering flux is just nice to have (even if the solder itself has some flux core inside)
But that's some first-world-problems and not must-have.
Retired now so decided to learn about Drones. Loved your video. Very informative.
(I would have placed a small strip of Sellotape on you diagram paper.) - :)
this is a really good tutorial video. everything is nicely explained and you even did some mistakes. it shows that it doesn't have to be perfect. some people are afraid of doing things like this cause they don't want to mess up
Story of my life, I want it to be perfect and I doubt my ability for the quality needed in the details so I just don’t try…horrible outlook, trying to break that habit.
Thanks!
My Mamba stack flies just as well as any of my F7 flight controllers. The 35a Mamba ESC in my 4 inch has been running for months with no problems at all.
Always love your build videos, please try make more of them
Can you drop new links?
Adding a capacitor to a modern 4in1, even on 6s, is in my opinion so much overkill. (most of them run 2-4000 uF low ESR smd caps already built in) Plus - by using the throughhole package you always risk a short on your bat voltage ... frying everything - even if you shrinkwrap the little legs/clearcoat it. If you want smoothing for voltage spikes I would suggest buying a small PCB board which comes in many different uF - values instead of the big ones with exposed spiny metal legs. :D
@Rosetta Stoned Love the name 😂👌
Any update for 2023? The links in most cases don't work
This is so helpfull!!!! really apreciate this videos... thanks!!!
Best tutorial! I was able to solder a 18650 to my gmas pacemaker! Thank you
for the price of that fc, you can almost build an entire quad
What quad would you build? Just getting in to the game and would love to know.
you cannot build a 5" racing quad for $85....
@@sayhello2pedro you can start with Mamba F405 Mk2 which is almost two times cheaper and you'll hardly notice any difference.
@@HunnyFPV thank you, I’ll look it up
What's the best controller that works across multiple platforms? That's the last bit of info I need.
How much money is the total for this budget build?
200 for the budget and 270 for the other version
NOT have "budget" build. wery expensive near 400$ same can build less than 100$ select parts smart cheap
Can you list the items which might be required if I want to use DJI Air O3 Air unit? I just want to order them and then go over your video again and get in to more details. Humayun Qureshi
Beautiful build, Sam! Nicely done! 😃
About screws, you can never have enough of them! It's like clamps for woodworkers. 😬
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Hello, I’m new in drone, so I have a lot to learn, after the drone was built, how to connect a controller ? What controller do you use for this drone ? Thanks crew
Pretty effing sick what you get for a “budget” build these days.
Fax I swear this is like $400
@@maxortega8073 budget is more like $40 or less for me. You can get a decent one on ebay for $40
@@steve00alt70
Link of the$40 drone pls.
if you get yourself a little set of soldering clamps, holding the board vertical and bringing your wires in from the back. this would pull excess solder through and clean up your joint.
Awesome build bro, thanks for the easy steps of how to build your own quad . I will definitely be using this video to build my drone . I have few people to help me but their too busy, so I guess I got to doit by myself. Thanks again dude 😎👍
This is amazing. I really want to build my own, i'm sick and tired of DJI's fly software thinks im in a no-fly zone because I live near a disused airfield that hasn't been used since WW2. I've written to DJI about it but they don't care one iota.
Nice! I’m building myself a beater quad with similar components 💪🏽
Geez, use some flux on those solder points, man! :) Especially in a high vibration environment, it will decrease the risk of having a bad or cold solder joint
Why u work with same iron tip? for such big pads such small tip. video pretty interesting good explanation
do it but in 2024
This is a really cool video as a complete novice to drones, would love an updated part list and possibly a small video going over them.
Hi, the link to the hexdrivers kit isn't the same as you show in the video
It is just not a budget built at all.. Lets be honest :D
haha, if you think this is expensive...
IT GETS A LOT WORSE
Is it possible to incoperate a microphone and a light weight speaker u think?
You neeeeed training desperately in soldering technique
you should see my work I just did. one word to describe it; atrocious.
not going to lie, your soldering had my anxiety level maxed out!!
Your work made my science experiments easier
Has been building quads for 4 years, still solders like a beginner. Needs a new tip, use helping hands, add a dab of flux to the pcb pads, start with less solder before making blobs(don’t make giant blobs, small is fine).
Congrats 🎊 you won a DRONE PRIZE. I hope you like the prize and thanks so much for commenting. Quickly inbox above for it Good luck👍.
Will seawater mess the motor up or is it water resistant?
Hello, I am a beginner in drone design and builds, and I'd like some help getting recommendations regarding the battery used here?
Which motors did u use
This soldering technic it hurts my soul... Strip the wires, apply some solder on them. Then put those wires trought that hole, apply flux (liquid ones are the best for this kind of soldering) then ad just a tiny bit of solder on solderiong point. Yep it will still work, sometimes i do same as u if i have to solder somthing in the air, and dont have anyone and anything ("third arm") to help me out. But it wuld safe some pain in the ass sometimes (less of the chance for shortage between the pins) and looks more elegant.
Do you have a temp for soldering and a solder size to buy?
Consider grabbing a TS-80P or TS-100 iron and some thinner gauge solder, it'll make working with those pads a lot easier
Comparing to my five year old Blackout250 not much has changed. Would you agree?
ESC's are much cleaner. FC software and hardware has improved at least 2x.. frame design is on another level. Motors just power and size. Propellers also have seen a huge improvement since the zmr250 days.
at 3:00 u mentioned wires, can you share link, please?
funny question yet important to me, how much weight can it carry, I might send it down to carry small packages
Can you make a anti-jamming device for all kind of drone ?. I've always wondered who can made these and got away with gun to suppress drones
Great video! I was wondering, I have this old remote KDS K-7XII and receiver K-8X, 2.4G 8Ch, is it possible to control a drone like this with this remote and receiver? Is it possible to make it work with Mamba stack? Thanks.
Congrats 🎊 you won a DRONE PRIZE. I hope you like the prize and thanks so much for commenting. Quickly inbox above for it Good luck👍 !!!
Get a finer point on your soldering iron it dramatically reduces bridges.
10:15 do i have to buy this thing on the ESC extra or is it delivered with the mamba stack ?
Comes with
6:00 next time, try feeding the stripped wire from the underside of the board, through the hole , and soldering the pad and wire in one fell swoop.
they are called "trough holes" for a reason. IDK
Please make more build videos!! I love it!
Amazing sir, it's easy to understand and explained very well
Soldering skills have lots of potential for improvements. Hurts to see.
I am a new follower of your channel
Greetings from Sweden
Do you fly this with 6s? would 4s be enough to? wich props? i have some 5040 gemfan would they work?
What motors are these? Bc those are definitely not the eco 2
I kept wondering about that throughout the build
Good tips, outdated parts, you need to come back and make a newer video. Tip; Your soldering iron needs more angle so just the tip is used.
must be about 2yrs I did not came across or videos, helping as usual;)
Congrats 🎊 you won a DRONE PRIZE. I hope you like the prize and thanks so much for commenting. Quickly inbox above for it Good luck👍.
Will there be a part 2 where you get it programmed and ready to fly? I'm confident in putting it together, but I have no idea how to get it in the air after I build it. Only thing keeping be from doing this
Not the same guy but there are plenty of videos on youtube explaining how to set up the firmware and configure it. You should have a look at betaflight :)