WELCOME TO FPV!!!!! I've been flying fpv for 8+ years. No one really understands how incredible it feels to fly a machine that only does what you ask it to, and nothing else. (And sometimes not even that... Lol) I will never stop dancing in the tree branches! And building and repairing my electronic birds. So glad you're joining us
Hi, great videoand nice job ! As an FPV Pilot, I have some advice's for you: - Never try any adjustments with propellers on, this can lead to severe injury - Using PLA and other plastic materials create a lot of vibrations making it really hard to tune and even harder to pilot, not smooth at all, you can use pla for prototyping, then create a carbon fiber frame - You should stick to 1000-1500maH battery, it's not efficient on a five inches drone to fly with heavier battery (1300 is perfect in my opinion) - Every cables inside the drone should be short as possible to avoiding making vibration. Especially for your power cables, they should be attach with your LiPo strap or anything else to avoid them from being cut by propellers. - Your antenna is a bit too long and can add vibration to your drone. A shorter antenna cans help a lot. You should mount the antenna vertically to match your VRX antenna, this will give you a better range even with a shorter antenna. If you want to keep this antenna, at least, bend it to the top - Add a capacitor on the power pad on your ESC, this help a lot and can be the cause of your mid-flight death spinning (cause we ear the esc rebooting). Vibration is really the most important things when your building a FPV drone, especially on newer versions of betaflight. Every vibration is gathered by the gyro and need to be filtered. More filter you add on a gyro, more CPU is needed and less smoother and controllable is your drone. A youtuber nammed @ChrisRosser have made a lot of videos about vibration and filtering. Hope this help, sorry for my poor English, Leo,
@@ototheo2740 I don't think this will help much, he should overthink the choice for the printed frame and the prob size. It's a fun project, but not very usable as a freestyle drone.
Apart from getting a carbon fiber frame, I would recommend that you swap ESC and FC in the stack. Having the FC on the top is more convenient for maintenance, since you rarely need to work on the ESC after you solder the motors to it.
@@greatscottlab yes. this is a strong advise.. printed frames in large drone simply dont work since the acelerometer pick all the vibrations and f.up all your parameters. you can find cheap frames on amazon for 20 or less usd
one thing you can try is to reinforce the frame with some carbon fiber pieces or tubes, or use a carbon fiber frame altogether, you can get modular frames which if you breake an arm or something you can get a spare one, something like the "TCMM Martian ii" should be good
@@greatscottlab why not inlay another stronger material in your prints, that way you can improve durability and vibration characteristics while maintaining the easy to produce and prototype nature of your parts maybe something like inlaid aluminum
If you are following along this video and planning on building a drone, NEVER EVER do what he did at 13:18 EVER, that's how you lose a finger, get your arm cut to pieces or possibly worse. Specially if you are using betaflight with defaults settings where the pid loop is always active.
yeahh, 3+ kilowatts worth of motor power attached to essentially rotating blades (that produce thrust; aka erratic movement that could easily get out of control) is not something to fuck with
That has appened to me and almost lost a finger a year ago I picked it up from the ground and somehow hit the arm button and it went crazy on me Not a good experience
For my fpv freestyle drone I took an existing 3D model, edited it to reinforce the weak points and then printed the whole thing with Nylon CF15 filament. The carbon fiber additives make the entire frame extremely stiff while being virtually unbreakable. I also recommend flying in a simulator first to get a feel for the controls, so you don't crash your expensive drone in the beginning.
I understand your value for being able to reprint parts that break, but as someone VERY into the FPV hobby (many thousand dollars deep), here are a few things to consider: 1. Carbon frames break WAY less than you would think. Well made frames like the Apex, Moongoat, etc are flown into brick walls, trees, and pretty much anything else you can think of at great speeds and can usually fly off with no issues after a quick turtle mode (flip over after crash mode). The Apex even has a warranty and they will replace parts if you break them. The most commonly replaced parts are motors and props. Props are a consumable, motors (for some people like myself who fly very hard) are as well. The arms are not. They should last you months or even years of flying around and just cruising. Until you start doing risky stuff around brick/concrete, you most likely wont break any carbon at all. 2. Plastic frames have much worse flight characteristics. We moved to carbon fiber because it is much, much stiffer. Frame resonance for plastic frames is a big issue. The flight controller needs to filter out those resonances, which adds latency to your system. If those vibrations are bad enough, it can even burn up your motors and ESCs. 3. Carbon frames offer the best durability for the weight. Carrying around a full size gopro, you really want to be conscious of the all up weight of the drone. Especially on a 4s build, heavier drones will have problems coming out of dives or stopping quickly due to voltage sag. The heavier the quad, the more your motors need to work, the more demand is put on the lipo. All in all, there is a reason the entire FPV community has moved to carbon frames. Until some of the more exotic composite materials are tested, carbon fiber offers the best balance of weigh, durability, price, and stiffness. Also a side note, you really shouldnt be holding the drone while it is armed. It is a lesson you will eventually learn yourself, but just, trust me... those props will win a 1v1 vs your hands. Ask how I know :)
I remember when I was a kid, my dad bought me and a friend of mine two identical RC planes. The instructions said to throw it like an airplane while putting the throttle to full. Quickly learned that these instructions are pretty bad for this particular plane (props in the back). My friend's mum threw the thing while he throttled to max. It just barely graced her finger with a prop and took of a bunch of skin. She had to get stitches. So yeah, props do be dangerous
SHTF prepper; Im interested in learning more about drones and creating them from nothing with replacement parts as I envision the next decade of SHTF crimes and modern warfare combat situations, drones seem to be the epicenter for many next discoveries of modern tactics in using drones in helping solider in battle, helping police fight crime, helping firefighters put out forest fires, and potentially SHTF type situation, perhaps it'll do some good to know such things and have such capabilities knowledge, skills and fighting skills in being able to both attack and defend yourself from afar.
In any reality in which terminator type machines exist, even used for good in protecting people, eventually they the terminator type solider's will be taken over by AGI, hacked by a humans, or some form of secret organization in witch will carry out brutal violence on the innocent of humanity. I am currently laying groundwork in setting up multiple companies and organizations in defense to these injustices even if they do not occur for another decade, this only gives us more time, because these events will occur, the question is when?
Armored robots are already being put onto the streets within the communities in which we call home. We should not and can not trust AI robots in providing security to us as individuals, our communities or nations at large, we must learn the skills that it takes to stay ahead of the curve when it comes to both criminal activity, foreign nations, secret agendas to rid us of all property, and AI from controlling the entire world via armored private security, armored police bots and armored military bots will be used everywhere around the world by 2045. Just like the automobile has dominated the battlefield and cities in which we live for the last 100 years, drones will have an major impact on the battlefield and in our own communities for over the next 100 years.
Hi there, I have been watching your videos for years :) Good to know that you have finally started with drone racing. Few tips: 1.) Use a carbon fiber frame. Especially the 3D printed arms are not durable enough and will break very often. They are also not stiff enough and the FC gets way too much vibration which might lead to oscillations and poor flight performance. 2.) 3D printing is great for frame accessories like GoPro mounts or antenna mounts. ALWAYS use a flexible filament, preferably the TPU. Flexfill 98A is great for basically anything. It is very very durable. 3.) Learn how to fly on the FPV simulator. Liftoff, Velocidrone, or free FPV.Skydive can do the work. It will save you hours and hours of repairing the damaged drone. It absolutely pays off. 4.) The ESC is usually the first board in the stack and the FC is above it. It is way easier to build the drone that way ;) 5.) When building the drone on a carbon fiber frame, don't forget that the carbon is conductive so you should have all the parts laying on the frame insulated in heat shrink and it is a good way to do so even on a plastic frame. Cover the receiver with a heat shrink, stick it to the frame with double-sided tape and secure it with a zip-tie for safety.
That 3d printed frame will have way too much give to fly ‘well’. You’ll get gyro oscillations and general unstable flying as your skill base grows. I’d highly recommend a 5” frame from Amazon. They can be had for as little as $30 usd. Another note. You typically don’t want anything above the FC for maximum electrical noise isolation. The ESC is the noisiest component so it’s best at the bottom of the stack. The only thing i’ll put on top of a FC is the RX usually just for packaging constraints. Check out Thingiverse for printable TPU holders for your RX to make it secure and electrically isolated without having to wrap it with tape of some sort.
I'm very happy to see FPV on this channel! You should try a digital system for video if you enjoy the analog experience. I love 3d printing frames but they have so many issues I didn't know about until recently. They cause a lot of noise for the flight controller that makes the fc work harder and can cause fly away, unstable tunes, prop wash etc etc. Modern carbon fiber frames are also really resilient. I usually buy 2 of a frame and never have to open the other package even after crashing dozens of times.
Joshua Bardwell is definitely a wealth of information when it comes to FPV drones! I personally have made my own drone for an engineering challenge sponsored by Penn State University, and my design got Best Innovation. I utilized JB's tips and tricks for putting it together and tuning it. Happy flying!
Welcome to FPV! This hobby is seriously awesome. A few things I would recommend - use a carbon fiber frame, they are incredibly durable and lightweight, and allow much less vibrations from the motors into the gyro on the flight controller (due to it being more rigid), leading to better flight performance. The TBS Source One is a great cheap frame for about $25, but there are plenty of other great options. I would also recommend using acro mode (manual mode), as it doesn't limit your movements and is much better suited for FPV drones. I would definitely practice in a simulator first though. Great video!
Hey Scott, you may be interested in my DIY teensy-based flight controller. Not quite as polished as betaflight, but still very good stabilization performance--and it's arduino-based, so it's super easy to customize and modify (custom sensors, automation, etc...). Made for hackers like you!
Great video. Two suggestions from my experience 1. Try practicing in a simulator. There are a a few out there and it gives you lots of opertunities to practice without risk of breaking anything 2. Get a carbon fiber frame. The strength difference is massive. I have crashed drones into metal objects going 60mph without anything breaking
It is a tradeoff. Going with a smaller battery reduces the weight and draws less power, so there is a sweet spot. Also going to a 6s battery will make the drone more efficient but may be too much power to begin learning
This is the first video you’ve ever posted where I knew exactly what you were talking about 😊 2 tips… try to avoid powering up the VTX without an antenna hooked up to it. Depending on the one you have it can damage it. Also try a carbon fiber frame. The FC will work better with a rigid frame.
This reminds me of building my first quad it was so fun learning everything. Just wait until you are doing flips and flying through trees so fun. But I think a lot of your issues are caused by the flex of the 3d printed frame. These quads are extremely powerful and need a stiff frame to transfer accurate info to the gyro and a good carbon fiber frame can be had cheap probably close to what the filament and electricity would cost to print.
As someone who's been doing this for a few years now, a few tips. Don't use a 3D printed frame, it flexes too much causing the oscillations you were seeing, buy a carbon fibre one, they last a lot longer too, especially if you get a proper "name brand" one rather than a cheap knockoff (Armattan have a lifetime warranty, so if you break anything, you just have to pay shipping, other good brands are ImpulseRC/Ethix, Catalyst Machineworks, Ummagawd, GEPRC, iFlight, and there's a heap more, but that's a good start). Next, put your ESC on the bottom of the stack, and shorten the motor wires. Capacitor isn't needed for 4S but still recommended, but you definitely need to lock your battery straps into the drone a lot tighter so they don't flop into the props (the balance lead will tuck nicely under one of the velcro straps too). Your battery is too large for a 5" drone, I'd suggest a 1500 mAh one. The rest of your parts are very good, but your VTX is overkill unless you unlock it and go beyond the 25mW limits you have there. Beyond that, pick up a simulator for your computer, Velocidrone and Liftoff are the two most popular, and practice there. If you want to get into tricks, don't worry about learning angle mode, as the techniques are quite different. Personally I spent about 5 hours in the sim before I could do a coordinated turn (using both roll and yaw at the same time) properly, and about 10 hours before I went out with my actual drone.
hey man, nice one, like every video :) good setup and good explanations for beginners, except for the frame xD you should defently try a carbon frame instead of printing one ^^ less vibrations = more stable flight and it safes you money and time to fly ;) tbs source one for ex. is good cheap beginner frame ;) .. the fc failsafed mostly cause you got too much noise cause of vibrations.. und bei der rpm berechnung solltest die vollen 16.8v von 4s hernehmen, somit bist mit 2555kv bei 42.924rpm.. weil ab ca 45000rpm wirds kritisch mit 5zoll props, dann durchbrechen die spitzen die schallmauer und fangen an flattern ;) achja und nur acro ist richtig fliegen :P ;)
I would say buy a 5 inch carbon fiber frame, they can withstand a lot of crashes. Watch fpv drone freestyle videos and practice in a simulator, so you can crash many times and get better. Joshua bardwell has videos for good simulator and a lot of beginner friendly drone build videos, highly recommended.
Thanks for the info, now you made this regular DJI Mavic drone pilot want to explore FPV building and flying! 😎 I have watched FPV videos and it looks insanely hard when the margins are next to zero under very high speeds, but than again I have plenty of drone and even 6ch 3d helicopter experience. So shouldn't be to hard doing basic maneuvering. I'm going to take a look what's available in terms of simulation software for fpv. Thanks for the tip. 🙂
7 of the top 9 comments advise on a carbon frame and they're correct, too! The TBS Source One is dirt cheap, tested and approved by lots of pilots. Lighter, stiffer and stronger. Other than that and the power lead getting chopped: good job! Overall people tend to go with a lighter battery on a 5" for maneuverability and a bigger battery like yours for mountain surfing on 7" quads but if you like it, that's the way you should fly it. It's funny how building and flying an FPV quad is almost like second nature to me but a learning process for you. I'm usually in awe of your knowledge and skills but FPV quads are where I learned most of what I know about electronics so that's like a baseline in my head.
Nice topic ;) The biggest downside of printed frames is the resonance behavior. That can lead to oscillations in the pid loop and can cause flyaways and shaky video. Carbon is waaaaay more durable and even stiffer. Also the vtx antenna causes massive oscillations. The rule is to get it as short and stiff as possible (stubby antenna) ✌
Maybe reducing the maximum power or throttle input might be a good idea to start with, one of the most important things first time flyers have to learn is that the adjustments you make during flight are incredibly miniscule, give your sticks say half the max throttle they can have using a linear curve, you'll be able to get used ot making finer adjustments with a larger throw on your controller, then bring the curve back up once you get more used to it so you can get into the acrobatics.
Dude... FANTASTIC work! 😃 First of all, fantastic choice of motors! The same brand has a cheaper version (I'm not sure which you bought) that are perfect! I'm not going to talk about the carbon frame, lots of people already did. 😬 But there are companies that would cut any frame design you come with, which could be a great option indeed. About learning to fly, I'm not sure if your transmitter can be connected to a PC and used as a joystick... But there are some fantastic simulators you can choose from. That's how I started and learned! You can crash hundreds of times without it costing your kidneys. 😂 Oh, in case your transmitter can't connect to a PC to be used with a simulator, looks for the Radiomaster models. They're great, the best in the market! Anyway, stay safe and creative there! And flying! 🖖😃
There was a time when the only way to get into the drone hobby was building it yourself. I built many drones in those days. These days the pre-built drones have just gotten so good that it is usually not worth building one. There are still cases where building is the right way to go but the average drone pilot will be far better served buying an ARF. You often times still need to install a receiver but you can even find many with the receiver built in.
Ots funny to read Scott call himself idiot, when several of the betaflight and other drone parts developers learn loads from him. The VESC video, FOC video and other ESC based videos are the reason why we have some of the cool features in our modern blheli32 ESCs. Videos on PID control by electronoob and Scott also made it easy for drones to simplify tuning.
I also built a drone a few years ago, it was quite large and was great fun to fly. Then Sweden changed its rules and it and now you can't use it. Maybe I will return to this hobby if you can make really small ones like you have done.
While this content is neither novel or groundbreaking, it’s a good beginner video. DIY Drones have been covered in depth for years by the likes of Bardwell, Mads Tech, Painless, and the late project Blue Falcon. However these channels specialize in DIY drones, so they would be my first go to for help imo.
This is awesome! Good for you Great Scott! Not only did you finally make your drone but this video was amazing in showing how you did it. Thanks as always!
Würde dir empfehlen in einem Simulator zu üben, Liftoff ist mein Favorit. Es empfiehlt sich direkt mit dem acro Modus zu üben. Wenn man das drauf hat, hat man die drohne mehr unter Kontrolle als im angle Modus. Ein sehr schönes Hobby!
In fact he's filmed himself not complying with German regulations - while he could have added the mandatory fireproof label off-cam, both the EU and STRFF rulesets require Spotters to be present for most FPV flights. Until someone complains that's fine, but since many people unknowingly did some very stupid stuff with drones, regulations & enforcement got quite strict, especially when outside of a model-flight club.
Good work! Like others mentioned frame stiffness *might* be a possible issue. You might also want to try the iNav controller firmware, not only if you're interested in adding more functions like position hold or route following, but also just for "normal" FPV. It's configured much like Betaflight, since they share an open-source lineage.
Great video! I watched your videos before getting into FPV, then I found myself getting into drones right after your first few attempts in creating one. I am really excited to see this video and your new hobby maybe? I agree, the 5/6inch size of the drone is a little big. I don’t make/fly any greater than 3inches. There are a few reasons but mainly because you don’t break much when you crash and not as $$$ to replace parts 😂. I look forward to more like this from you to see if you can maybe design your own ESC pcb for a mount size of maybe 20x20? Or even a DIY ELRS receive? They are open source.
I'd highly recommend using PLA+ filament instead of PETG. PETG might be a bit stronger but also less stiff and for a drone frame you really want the stiffness. PLA+ also can be "baked" to make it more crash resistant. I have also 3D printed drones before and after switching from PETG to PLA+ oscillations greatly decreased and I was able to use less aggressiv PID settings.
Please don't do stuff like testing it in your hand. 5" props can easily slice your fingers open! Your component choice was alright, but 3d printing the frame isn't a great idea. Betaflight isn't made to handle oscillations caused by soft arms like this. The PID adjustments required to make it fly smooth would make the controls pretty sluggish. Carbon frames are pretty cheap these days and using 3d prints would be more expensive in the end with them breaking all the time :)
Pleas NEVER test your drone in your HANDS!!!! when you have propellers attached, i head known this and still i learnd it the hard way and brought somebody to hospital. Espacially for the first test flights i would reccomand around 5m between you and the drone and if possible some hard cover.
"Build your own drone" ,They said... "It will be easy", They said. I drove my wife crazy programing the PID on my kk2 flight controller. 5 days of beep...beep...beep. Worth every second.
great work! Just wondering why you decided to print the frame in PETG? PLA is easier to print with and more durable (besides temperature). If your printer can handle it, Nylon (or better Nylon with carbon fibre) is the absolute best for a frame. Casing should be lightweight PLA or ASA as both are extremely light
Great project! Even if the PETG is not carbon fiber (as the experts mention in the comments) it is great learning experience. I wonder of the total cost though ( I would love to build one too). Do you know what the final cost (of materials) was at the end?
should be around 300-350 Euro -> Motors 100, Elrs 20, FC 100, VTX50, + the small things like propeller, lipo, screws standoff and camera. For goggle and remote another 100 Dollar
It seems like building it so that the propellers sit below the level of the body rather than mounting the camera *under* the drone would make it inherently less stable to fly
9:55 do not rely on the fc or esc cable! not every manufacturer has the same pin arrangement. you might fry your expensive fc so definetly check the manual at least twice before powering the drone!
Nice vid, im asking myself how much a set up Like this would cost? A diy fpv Drone with decent googles and components. Are we talking about 200-500€ or way more? Thanks!
Get a carbon fiber frame it will help with the oscillations also pay attention to motor temperature. With 3d printed parts there comes a tone of oscillation and subsequently heating of motors. You can burn them out if it's too bad. Have fun. PS: with a 2200 battery on 4s its not powerful enough :)
3d printed frame probably results in a noisy system, add to that 6inch props that inharently produce more noise than "default" 5inch makes it harder to get a good flying drone. Did you use default pids? Look like you had too low pids
When I designed my 3d printed long range 9" quad I learnt a few things that might help: I also used petg in the first version, but actually pla had better results due to the higher stiffness resulting in less flex in the arms. You can also turn on blackbox logging in betaflight, if your flight controller has an sdcard slot or flash storage. That way you can use BlackBox viewer, to find out what happens in case something fails. It flies really well with default PIDs, so that is definitely possible with a 3d printed design.
I can't help but feel like mounting the gopro to the front like that could make the drone unbalanced. Mounting it more towards the center might make it more balanced. It would probably get parts of the drone in the frame, but that might not be such a bad thing and could look kinda cool since it is a drone video after all.
Those xing motors are really nice, but in my eyes too nice. $20 per motor is hard to swallow. It would make more sense to buy something like an emax eco 2306 for $13 each, then have plenty of money left over for a cheap Source 1 5" frame and spare arms. Great video btw, but definitely some components that came be improved upon once you have more experience 👍 3d printing is still a great resource for printing antenna mounts, cam mounts, arm protectors, and motor skids though!
This is very cool! This makes me want to build one of my own design. I would recommend putting some rubber dampeners on the flight controller and reinforcing the body with Carbon Fibre.
Please do don’t use the drone with props in the hand not at all recommend Don’t underestimate the power please keep that in mind next time But as always nice video
It's interesting to see this video for me because I have built a few drones in my life and find it easy at this point. Normally I watch your videos feeling like a bit of an electronics noob to learn something. Now I'm watching you discover something new that I already feel competent in and that gives me joy, because it's cool to see someone's progress in "your own field". BTW I feel your pain with FrSky binding. ;)
you need carbon fiber body (frame). First anything else breaks extremely easily, second anything else vibrates a lot and that affects the flying performance. Carbon fiber is the best option.
I been wondering how PETG 6mm or more holds up with drones. Does it break way more than carbon.. and thus print lots of extra arms, etc? Seems like if you dont crash much... it could be a great way to have all kinds of drones to fly for less. But is the flying dynamics good with PETG/3d printed.. how much different than carbon?
Great to see a popular channel like yours showcase an FPV drone. I hate to say it, but in this case a bit more research on the topic would have helped you make better decisions which would have made a much better and longer flying quad. The goal when building an FPV quad is always to make it as light as possible with as few vibrations as possible. In this way, filtering on the gyros can be reduced and you end up with much better performance with much quicker response time. Don't get me wrong, it looks really super cool, but it also looks like it would fly like a pig (I mean no offence). You say it's too powerful for you, but I reckon if you flew a well tuned 5in quad with a carbon fibre frame you'd realise how underpowered it actually is (or rather how far from optimal yours really is). Still love your channel bro.
I would say however that the ‘overflowing’ hardware market is a very good thing. We have so much to choose from! We can truly make our own machines, it’s lovely!
I'm a bit late to the video but welcome to FPV! You didn't mention reshaping the arms to better fit the 5" props. Plastic is heavier than the carbon frames we typically use and 5" props are a bit less efficient than 6" would be esp for the motor size and extra frame weight
Hi, Really a great video But the problem you had with the motor being stopped at the highest point of the throttle that same thing is happening to me but I don’t know whether it is the copper wire or capacitor needed or the esc is not calibrated properly🤔 and another problem is that when the motor is armed it automatically starts at a lowered speed then I have to the desired throttle means that the motor doesn’t stop at the lowest throttle rate😢 If anyone wants to help or give a suggestion please reply
WELCOME TO FPV!!!!!
I've been flying fpv for 8+ years. No one really understands how incredible it feels to fly a machine that only does what you ask it to, and nothing else. (And sometimes not even that... Lol)
I will never stop dancing in the tree branches! And building and repairing my electronic birds. So glad you're joining us
Hi, great videoand nice job !
As an FPV Pilot, I have some advice's for you:
- Never try any adjustments with propellers on, this can lead to severe injury
- Using PLA and other plastic materials create a lot of vibrations making it really hard to tune and even harder to pilot, not smooth at all, you can use pla for prototyping, then create a carbon fiber frame
- You should stick to 1000-1500maH battery, it's not efficient on a five inches drone to fly with heavier battery (1300 is perfect in my opinion)
- Every cables inside the drone should be short as possible to avoiding making vibration. Especially for your power cables, they should be attach with your LiPo strap or anything else to avoid them from being cut by propellers.
- Your antenna is a bit too long and can add vibration to your drone. A shorter antenna cans help a lot. You should mount the antenna vertically to match your VRX antenna, this will give you a better range even with a shorter antenna. If you want to keep this antenna, at least, bend it to the top
- Add a capacitor on the power pad on your ESC, this help a lot and can be the cause of your mid-flight death spinning (cause we ear the esc rebooting).
Vibration is really the most important things when your building a FPV drone, especially on newer versions of betaflight. Every vibration is gathered by the gyro and need to be filtered. More filter you add on a gyro, more CPU is needed and less smoother and controllable is your drone. A youtuber nammed @ChrisRosser have made a lot of videos about vibration and filtering.
Hope this help, sorry for my poor English,
Leo,
Thanks for all the tips :-)
Excellent tips, and your English is better than many people writing comments on RUclips whose first and only language is English.
@@evanbarnes9984 Thanks 🙏
@@greatscottlab Happy to help
Plus one for the first suggestion! I have the scars to prove it!
Have you played with the PID parameters after recording? Too much oscillation can be caused by too much proportional and integral gains
I will try that 🙂
Yeah, correct. It can also be fixed by increasing the Derivative gain as it contributes to minimizing the oscillations. However, it was good.
@@greatscottlab check out chris rosser for really good tuning guides
@@ototheo2740
I don't think this will help much, he should overthink the choice for the printed frame and the prob size.
It's a fun project, but not very usable as a freestyle drone.
@@raistraw8629 yea tuning is more of a bandaid in this case, but a general understanding will help
You totally missed the chance to start this video with _"I'm Greatscott and you're going to learn something new today!"_
Definitely a missed opportunity :-)
Thank God you did it. i have been waiting for many years for this. 😂
Haha there you go :-)
@@greatscottlab Good work! I would have loved to see a drone with your own esc though. But I can understand the development time might be an issue :)
Apart from getting a carbon fiber frame, I would recommend that you swap ESC and FC in the stack. Having the FC on the top is more convenient for maintenance, since you rarely need to work on the ESC after you solder the motors to it.
14:16. Most likely the problems you're having are the results of your frame being not stiff enough, and that messes up with Betaflight filters
Good to know :-)
@@greatscottlab yes. this is a strong advise.. printed frames in large drone simply dont work since the acelerometer pick all the vibrations and f.up all your parameters. you can find cheap frames on amazon for 20 or less usd
one thing you can try is to reinforce the frame with some carbon fiber pieces or tubes, or use a carbon fiber frame altogether, you can get modular frames which if you breake an arm or something you can get a spare one, something like the "TCMM Martian ii" should be good
And 14:26 should be a motor desync from the strong oscillations.
@@greatscottlab why not inlay another stronger material in your prints, that way you can improve durability and vibration characteristics while maintaining the easy to produce and prototype nature of your parts maybe something like inlaid aluminum
I'd get a carbon fiber frame as its much more resistant against crashing.
Definitely possible. But you can not easily reprint parts ;-)
@@greatscottlab Thats true but you don't have to anymore. Mine held up against hard crashes for now 3 years.
You can by replacements for cheap...
@@greatscottlab Probabaly using ASA or ABS could save a few grams and have the same if not better resistant
Carbon fiber is nice and strong but a pain the the behind to modify without making a mess. That dust is not good to breath in.
If you are following along this video and planning on building a drone, NEVER EVER do what he did at 13:18 EVER, that's how you lose a finger, get your arm cut to pieces or possibly worse.
Specially if you are using betaflight with defaults settings where the pid loop is always active.
I can feel the pain just by watching it...
yeahh, 3+ kilowatts worth of motor power attached to essentially rotating blades (that produce thrust; aka erratic movement that could easily get out of control) is not something to fuck with
That has appened to me and almost lost a finger a year ago
I picked it up from the ground and somehow hit the arm button and it went crazy on me
Not a good experience
For my fpv freestyle drone I took an existing 3D model, edited it to reinforce the weak points and then printed the whole thing with Nylon CF15 filament.
The carbon fiber additives make the entire frame extremely stiff while being virtually unbreakable.
I also recommend flying in a simulator first to get a feel for the controls, so you don't crash your expensive drone in the beginning.
I understand your value for being able to reprint parts that break, but as someone VERY into the FPV hobby (many thousand dollars deep), here are a few things to consider:
1. Carbon frames break WAY less than you would think. Well made frames like the Apex, Moongoat, etc are flown into brick walls, trees, and pretty much anything else you can think of at great speeds and can usually fly off with no issues after a quick turtle mode (flip over after crash mode). The Apex even has a warranty and they will replace parts if you break them. The most commonly replaced parts are motors and props. Props are a consumable, motors (for some people like myself who fly very hard) are as well. The arms are not. They should last you months or even years of flying around and just cruising. Until you start doing risky stuff around brick/concrete, you most likely wont break any carbon at all.
2. Plastic frames have much worse flight characteristics. We moved to carbon fiber because it is much, much stiffer. Frame resonance for plastic frames is a big issue. The flight controller needs to filter out those resonances, which adds latency to your system. If those vibrations are bad enough, it can even burn up your motors and ESCs.
3. Carbon frames offer the best durability for the weight. Carrying around a full size gopro, you really want to be conscious of the all up weight of the drone. Especially on a 4s build, heavier drones will have problems coming out of dives or stopping quickly due to voltage sag. The heavier the quad, the more your motors need to work, the more demand is put on the lipo.
All in all, there is a reason the entire FPV community has moved to carbon frames. Until some of the more exotic composite materials are tested, carbon fiber offers the best balance of weigh, durability, price, and stiffness.
Also a side note, you really shouldnt be holding the drone while it is armed. It is a lesson you will eventually learn yourself, but just, trust me... those props will win a 1v1 vs your hands. Ask how I know :)
I remember when I was a kid, my dad bought me and a friend of mine two identical RC planes. The instructions said to throw it like an airplane while putting the throttle to full. Quickly learned that these instructions are pretty bad for this particular plane (props in the back). My friend's mum threw the thing while he throttled to max. It just barely graced her finger with a prop and took of a bunch of skin. She had to get stitches.
So yeah, props do be dangerous
When you go bando bashing everything in this hobby is a consumable. :D
Good points. I agree with all of them. :)
SHTF prepper; Im interested in learning more about drones and creating them from nothing with replacement parts as I envision the next decade of SHTF crimes and modern warfare combat situations, drones seem to be the epicenter for many next discoveries of modern tactics in using drones in helping solider in battle, helping police fight crime, helping firefighters put out forest fires, and potentially SHTF type situation, perhaps it'll do some good to know such things and have such capabilities knowledge, skills and fighting skills in being able to both attack and defend yourself from afar.
In any reality in which terminator type machines exist, even used for good in protecting people, eventually they the terminator type solider's will be taken over by AGI, hacked by a humans, or some form of secret organization in witch will carry out brutal violence on the innocent of humanity. I am currently laying groundwork in setting up multiple companies and organizations in defense to these injustices even if they do not occur for another decade, this only gives us more time, because these events will occur, the question is when?
Armored robots are already being put onto the streets within the communities in which we call home. We should not and can not trust AI robots in providing security to us as individuals, our communities or nations at large, we must learn the skills that it takes to stay ahead of the curve when it comes to both criminal activity, foreign nations, secret agendas to rid us of all property, and AI from controlling the entire world via armored private security, armored police bots and armored military bots will be used everywhere around the world by 2045. Just like the automobile has dominated the battlefield and cities in which we live for the last 100 years, drones will have an major impact on the battlefield and in our own communities for over the next 100 years.
11:45 Uses flush cutters but doesn't cut flush the tie wraps. 👀😉
This video came just at the right time I was researching FPV drones yesterday and this video solved a lot of questions I had.
That is what I hoped for :-)
Hi there, I have been watching your videos for years :) Good to know that you have finally started with drone racing.
Few tips:
1.) Use a carbon fiber frame. Especially the 3D printed arms are not durable enough and will break very often. They are also not stiff enough and the FC gets way too much vibration which might lead to oscillations and poor flight performance.
2.) 3D printing is great for frame accessories like GoPro mounts or antenna mounts. ALWAYS use a flexible filament, preferably the TPU. Flexfill 98A is great for basically anything. It is very very durable.
3.) Learn how to fly on the FPV simulator. Liftoff, Velocidrone, or free FPV.Skydive can do the work. It will save you hours and hours of repairing the damaged drone. It absolutely pays off.
4.) The ESC is usually the first board in the stack and the FC is above it. It is way easier to build the drone that way ;)
5.) When building the drone on a carbon fiber frame, don't forget that the carbon is conductive so you should have all the parts laying on the frame insulated in heat shrink and it is a good way to do so even on a plastic frame. Cover the receiver with a heat shrink, stick it to the frame with double-sided tape and secure it with a zip-tie for safety.
I REMEMBER YEARS AGO WHEN YOU SAID YOU'D FINISH THIS IN 2022
I'M SO PROUD OF YOU
This video made me realise I have been watching you since more than 5 years. Great Video!
That 3d printed frame will have way too much give to fly ‘well’. You’ll get gyro oscillations and general unstable flying as your skill base grows. I’d highly recommend a 5” frame from Amazon. They can be had for as little as $30 usd.
Another note. You typically don’t want anything above the FC for maximum electrical noise isolation. The ESC is the noisiest component so it’s best at the bottom of the stack. The only thing i’ll put on top of a FC is the RX usually just for packaging constraints. Check out Thingiverse for printable TPU holders for your RX to make it secure and electrically isolated without having to wrap it with tape of some sort.
I'm very happy to see FPV on this channel! You should try a digital system for video if you enjoy the analog experience.
I love 3d printing frames but they have so many issues I didn't know about until recently. They cause a lot of noise for the flight controller that makes the fc work harder and can cause fly away, unstable tunes, prop wash etc etc. Modern carbon fiber frames are also really resilient. I usually buy 2 of a frame and never have to open the other package even after crashing dozens of times.
Thanks for the tip :-)
Digital is awesome but very very expensive. Wait till you get into the hobby some more before you invest
Joshua Bardwell is definitely a wealth of information when it comes to FPV drones! I personally have made my own drone for an engineering challenge sponsored by Penn State University, and my design got Best Innovation. I utilized JB's tips and tricks for putting it together and tuning it. Happy flying!
Welcome to FPV! This hobby is seriously awesome. A few things I would recommend - use a carbon fiber frame, they are incredibly durable and lightweight, and allow much less vibrations from the motors into the gyro on the flight controller (due to it being more rigid), leading to better flight performance. The TBS Source One is a great cheap frame for about $25, but there are plenty of other great options. I would also recommend using acro mode (manual mode), as it doesn't limit your movements and is much better suited for FPV drones. I would definitely practice in a simulator first though. Great video!
Hey Scott, you may be interested in my DIY teensy-based flight controller. Not quite as polished as betaflight, but still very good stabilization performance--and it's arduino-based, so it's super easy to customize and modify (custom sensors, automation, etc...). Made for hackers like you!
Feel free to drop a link.
@@greatscottlab check his channel
Hi greatscott! Happy to see you flying fpv drone!! oscillation can be caused too by the stifness of the arm. Get a carbon fiber frame :)
Thanks for the tips!
Great video. Two suggestions from my experience
1. Try practicing in a simulator. There are a a few out there and it gives you lots of opertunities to practice without risk of breaking anything
2. Get a carbon fiber frame. The strength difference is massive. I have crashed drones into metal objects going 60mph without anything breaking
Great suggestions! Along with these tips I'd say bump down to a 1400maH-ish 4s to shave some weight as well.
Thanks for the tips!
Well. With the current battery flight time was already only around 4 minutes. So I really do not want to go down with capacity.
It is a tradeoff. Going with a smaller battery reduces the weight and draws less power, so there is a sweet spot. Also going to a 6s battery will make the drone more efficient but may be too much power to begin learning
@@greatscottlab The added weight will increase the thrust needed so it's a bit of a trade off of weight vs how hard the motors are working 👍
This is the first video you’ve ever posted where I knew exactly what you were talking about 😊
2 tips… try to avoid powering up the VTX without an antenna hooked up to it. Depending on the one you have it can damage it. Also try a carbon fiber frame. The FC will work better with a rigid frame.
@Funk FPV do you have a channel where you fly FPV? I love your YT Shorts btw
This reminds me of building my first quad it was so fun learning everything. Just wait until you are doing flips and flying through trees so fun. But I think a lot of your issues are caused by the flex of the 3d printed frame. These quads are extremely powerful and need a stiff frame to transfer accurate info to the gyro and a good carbon fiber frame can be had cheap probably close to what the filament and electricity would cost to print.
As someone who's been doing this for a few years now, a few tips. Don't use a 3D printed frame, it flexes too much causing the oscillations you were seeing, buy a carbon fibre one, they last a lot longer too, especially if you get a proper "name brand" one rather than a cheap knockoff (Armattan have a lifetime warranty, so if you break anything, you just have to pay shipping, other good brands are ImpulseRC/Ethix, Catalyst Machineworks, Ummagawd, GEPRC, iFlight, and there's a heap more, but that's a good start). Next, put your ESC on the bottom of the stack, and shorten the motor wires. Capacitor isn't needed for 4S but still recommended, but you definitely need to lock your battery straps into the drone a lot tighter so they don't flop into the props (the balance lead will tuck nicely under one of the velcro straps too). Your battery is too large for a 5" drone, I'd suggest a 1500 mAh one. The rest of your parts are very good, but your VTX is overkill unless you unlock it and go beyond the 25mW limits you have there.
Beyond that, pick up a simulator for your computer, Velocidrone and Liftoff are the two most popular, and practice there. If you want to get into tricks, don't worry about learning angle mode, as the techniques are quite different. Personally I spent about 5 hours in the sim before I could do a coordinated turn (using both roll and yaw at the same time) properly, and about 10 hours before I went out with my actual drone.
hey man, nice one, like every video :) good setup and good explanations for beginners, except for the frame xD you should defently try a carbon frame instead of printing one ^^ less vibrations = more stable flight and it safes you money and time to fly ;) tbs source one for ex. is good cheap beginner frame ;) .. the fc failsafed mostly cause you got too much noise cause of vibrations.. und bei der rpm berechnung solltest die vollen 16.8v von 4s hernehmen, somit bist mit 2555kv bei 42.924rpm.. weil ab ca 45000rpm wirds kritisch mit 5zoll props, dann durchbrechen die spitzen die schallmauer und fangen an flattern ;) achja und nur acro ist richtig fliegen :P ;)
Finally waiting for a drone video from u since 2017 😂😂
Well.....there you go ;-)
I would say buy a 5 inch carbon fiber frame, they can withstand a lot of crashes. Watch fpv drone freestyle videos and practice in a simulator, so you can crash many times and get better. Joshua bardwell has videos for good simulator and a lot of beginner friendly drone build videos, highly recommended.
Thanks for the feedback :-)
Thanks for the info, now you made this regular DJI Mavic drone pilot want to explore FPV building and flying! 😎
I have watched FPV videos and it looks insanely hard when the margins are next to zero under very high speeds, but than again I have plenty of drone and even 6ch 3d helicopter experience. So shouldn't be to hard doing basic maneuvering. I'm going to take a look what's available in terms of simulation software for fpv. Thanks for the tip. 🙂
7 of the top 9 comments advise on a carbon frame and they're correct, too! The TBS Source One is dirt cheap, tested and approved by lots of pilots. Lighter, stiffer and stronger. Other than that and the power lead getting chopped: good job!
Overall people tend to go with a lighter battery on a 5" for maneuverability and a bigger battery like yours for mountain surfing on 7" quads but if you like it, that's the way you should fly it.
It's funny how building and flying an FPV quad is almost like second nature to me but a learning process for you. I'm usually in awe of your knowledge and skills but FPV quads are where I learned most of what I know about electronics so that's like a baseline in my head.
Fun build! The esc beeps tell you the FC reinitialized so you can trace it back to a connection/supply issue. Not the cap though. Cheers Bud
Nice topic ;)
The biggest downside of printed frames is the resonance behavior. That can lead to oscillations in the pid loop and can cause flyaways and shaky video. Carbon is waaaaay more durable and even stiffer.
Also the vtx antenna causes massive oscillations. The rule is to get it as short and stiff as possible (stubby antenna) ✌
Keep it up ! I've been flying FPV drones for since 2016, it changed my life.....and my career
We have an IOT subject this semester and thanks to your vids i already know a lot of stuff already
Maybe reducing the maximum power or throttle input might be a good idea to start with, one of the most important things first time flyers have to learn is that the adjustments you make during flight are incredibly miniscule, give your sticks say half the max throttle they can have using a linear curve, you'll be able to get used ot making finer adjustments with a larger throw on your controller, then bring the curve back up once you get more used to it so you can get into the acrobatics.
Dude... FANTASTIC work! 😃
First of all, fantastic choice of motors! The same brand has a cheaper version (I'm not sure which you bought) that are perfect!
I'm not going to talk about the carbon frame, lots of people already did. 😬
But there are companies that would cut any frame design you come with, which could be a great option indeed.
About learning to fly, I'm not sure if your transmitter can be connected to a PC and used as a joystick... But there are some fantastic simulators you can choose from. That's how I started and learned! You can crash hundreds of times without it costing your kidneys. 😂
Oh, in case your transmitter can't connect to a PC to be used with a simulator, looks for the Radiomaster models. They're great, the best in the market!
Anyway, stay safe and creative there! And flying! 🖖😃
There was a time when the only way to get into the drone hobby was building it yourself. I built many drones in those days. These days the pre-built drones have just gotten so good that it is usually not worth building one. There are still cases where building is the right way to go but the average drone pilot will be far better served buying an ARF. You often times still need to install a receiver but you can even find many with the receiver built in.
Ots funny to read Scott call himself idiot, when several of the betaflight and other drone parts developers learn loads from him. The VESC video, FOC video and other ESC based videos are the reason why we have some of the cool features in our modern blheli32 ESCs. Videos on PID control by electronoob and Scott also made it easy for drones to simplify tuning.
I also built a drone a few years ago, it was quite large and was great fun to fly.
Then Sweden changed its rules and it and now you can't use it.
Maybe I will return to this hobby if you can make really small ones like you have done.
While this content is neither novel or groundbreaking, it’s a good beginner video. DIY Drones have been covered in depth for years by the likes of Bardwell, Mads Tech, Painless, and the late project Blue Falcon. However these channels specialize in DIY drones, so they would be my first go to for help imo.
Hi ... pls can u give a review on your laptop power bank you created... Do you still use it? And if you are to recreat, what will you change from it
Tuning PID parameters is a nightmare!
Hoping to see a new video comparing this drone using theses traditional propellers and the new toroidal design
This is a really good overview, I'm glad you got a drone in the air finally!!
This is awesome! Good for you Great Scott! Not only did you finally make your drone but this video was amazing in showing how you did it. Thanks as always!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Bardwell is FPV god
Congratulations sir! I am so happy now!
Würde dir empfehlen in einem Simulator zu üben, Liftoff ist mein Favorit. Es empfiehlt sich direkt mit dem acro Modus zu üben. Wenn man das drauf hat, hat man die drohne mehr unter Kontrolle als im angle Modus.
Ein sehr schönes Hobby!
joshua bardwell x greatscott, cant quite believe it
Dream team? ;-)
@@greatscottlab YES! next time u should build a 5" freestyle drone with an actual carbon frame and fly in acro
Also remember to make sure you comply with your local laws which may require you to get a license or take a short test.
True
In fact he's filmed himself not complying with German regulations - while he could have added the mandatory fireproof label off-cam, both the EU and STRFF rulesets require Spotters to be present for most FPV flights. Until someone complains that's fine, but since many people unknowingly did some very stupid stuff with drones, regulations & enforcement got quite strict, especially when outside of a model-flight club.
Good work! Like others mentioned frame stiffness *might* be a possible issue.
You might also want to try the iNav controller firmware, not only if you're interested in adding more functions like position hold or route following, but also just for "normal" FPV.
It's configured much like Betaflight, since they share an open-source lineage.
Great video! I watched your videos before getting into FPV, then I found myself getting into drones right after your first few attempts in creating one. I am really excited to see this video and your new hobby maybe? I agree, the 5/6inch size of the drone is a little big. I don’t make/fly any greater than 3inches. There are a few reasons but mainly because you don’t break much when you crash and not as $$$ to replace parts 😂. I look forward to more like this from you to see if you can maybe design your own ESC pcb for a mount size of maybe 20x20? Or even a DIY ELRS receive? They are open source.
I'd highly recommend using PLA+ filament instead of PETG. PETG might be a bit stronger but also less stiff and for a drone frame you really want the stiffness. PLA+ also can be "baked" to make it more crash resistant. I have also 3D printed drones before and after switching from PETG to PLA+ oscillations greatly decreased and I was able to use less aggressiv PID settings.
Great video! I was thinking about building a drone myself. This is very comprehensive and helpful to get started!
Please don't do stuff like testing it in your hand. 5" props can easily slice your fingers open!
Your component choice was alright, but 3d printing the frame isn't a great idea. Betaflight isn't made to handle oscillations caused by soft arms like this. The PID adjustments required to make it fly smooth would make the controls pretty sluggish. Carbon frames are pretty cheap these days and using 3d prints would be more expensive in the end with them breaking all the time :)
Noted.
Pleas NEVER test your drone in your HANDS!!!! when you have propellers attached, i head known this and still i learnd it the hard way and brought somebody to hospital. Espacially for the first test flights i would reccomand around 5m between you and the drone and if possible some hard cover.
"Build your own drone" ,They said... "It will be easy", They said. I drove my wife crazy programing the PID on my kk2 flight controller. 5 days of beep...beep...beep. Worth every second.
great work! Just wondering why you decided to print the frame in PETG? PLA is easier to print with and more durable (besides temperature). If your printer can handle it, Nylon (or better Nylon with carbon fibre) is the absolute best for a frame. Casing should be lightweight PLA or ASA as both are extremely light
Great project! Even if the PETG is not carbon fiber (as the experts mention in the comments) it is great learning experience. I wonder of the total cost though ( I would love to build one too). Do you know what the final cost (of materials) was at the end?
should be around 300-350 Euro -> Motors 100, Elrs 20, FC 100, VTX50, + the small things like propeller, lipo, screws standoff and camera. For goggle and remote another 100 Dollar
It seems like building it so that the propellers sit below the level of the body rather than mounting the camera *under* the drone would make it inherently less stable to fly
C'mon man don't call yourself an idiot, your awesome
9:55 do not rely on the fc or esc cable! not every manufacturer has the same pin arrangement. you might fry your expensive fc so definetly check the manual at least twice before powering the drone!
Please, if the drone is too big, can you transform it into a more practical lawn mower. It would be a nice video for April 1st.
It is better to fail a 1000 times and than make drone than fail completly. Congrats on making good drone :D
Casually making a nearly 4kW drone
The way you cut your zip ties triggers me on another level.....
Please don’t hold your quad in your hands for testing. It’s really dangerous and cause some serious harm.
Unless it’s a hot day then it’s nice.
He's an idiot
Nice vid, im asking myself how much a set up Like this would cost?
A diy fpv Drone with decent googles and components.
Are we talking about 200-500€ or way more?
Thanks!
Get a carbon fiber frame it will help with the oscillations also pay attention to motor temperature. With 3d printed parts there comes a tone of oscillation and subsequently heating of motors. You can burn them out if it's too bad. Have fun. PS: with a 2200 battery on 4s its not powerful enough :)
3d printed frame probably results in a noisy system, add to that 6inch props that inharently produce more noise than "default" 5inch makes it harder to get a good flying drone.
Did you use default pids? Look like you had too low pids
He’s using 5” props
13:50 it’s Dishy!
When I designed my 3d printed long range 9" quad I learnt a few things that might help:
I also used petg in the first version, but actually pla had better results due to the higher stiffness resulting in less flex in the arms.
You can also turn on blackbox logging in betaflight, if your flight controller has an sdcard slot or flash storage. That way you can use BlackBox viewer, to find out what happens in case something fails.
It flies really well with default PIDs, so that is definitely possible with a 3d printed design.
8:50 So you decided on the WHAAAT?! 😳😳
I can't help but feel like mounting the gopro to the front like that could make the drone unbalanced. Mounting it more towards the center might make it more balanced. It would probably get parts of the drone in the frame, but that might not be such a bad thing and could look kinda cool since it is a drone video after all.
Those xing motors are really nice, but in my eyes too nice. $20 per motor is hard to swallow. It would make more sense to buy something like an emax eco 2306 for $13 each, then have plenty of money left over for a cheap Source 1 5" frame and spare arms.
Great video btw, but definitely some components that came be improved upon once you have more experience 👍
3d printing is still a great resource for printing antenna mounts, cam mounts, arm protectors, and motor skids though!
Now you can finally make a DIY or Buy episode about Drones/Quadcopters :D
Maybe one day. For now I am pretty happy with this result.
Great job. I love everything you do.
This is very cool! This makes me want to build one of my own design. I would recommend putting some rubber dampeners on the flight controller and reinforcing the body with Carbon Fibre.
Amazing video! liked, already subscribed & share.
8:52 not actually because it looked well made… he picked the one that looks like iron man
Please do don’t use the drone with props in the hand not at all recommend
Don’t underestimate the power please keep that in mind next time
But as always nice video
Custom frames are the only way to go if you like creating issues for yourself
I wish I was an idiot who was smart enough and could actually put their mind to things.
You can do it :-)
I would have had the same reaction when the moters switched off... " Why?!"
It's interesting to see this video for me because I have built a few drones in my life and find it easy at this point. Normally I watch your videos feeling like a bit of an electronics noob to learn something. Now I'm watching you discover something new that I already feel competent in and that gives me joy, because it's cool to see someone's progress in "your own field".
BTW I feel your pain with FrSky binding. ;)
did anyone already mention not to run the thing indoors / on the workbench with the propellers on the motors? 😱😆
you need carbon fiber body (frame). First anything else breaks extremely easily, second anything else vibrates a lot and that affects the flying performance. Carbon fiber is the best option.
I been wondering how PETG 6mm or more holds up with drones. Does it break way more than carbon.. and thus print lots of extra arms, etc? Seems like if you dont crash much... it could be a great way to have all kinds of drones to fly for less. But is the flying dynamics good with PETG/3d printed.. how much different than carbon?
The easiest way to build a drone is getting into the RC hobbies first.
Jesus, max power for ONE motor is 820.8W? :O
It just blows my mind how power hungry those things can get
Great to see a popular channel like yours showcase an FPV drone.
I hate to say it, but in this case a bit more research on the topic would have helped you make better decisions which would have made a much better and longer flying quad.
The goal when building an FPV quad is always to make it as light as possible with as few vibrations as possible. In this way, filtering on the gyros can be reduced and you end up with much better performance with much quicker response time.
Don't get me wrong, it looks really super cool, but it also looks like it would fly like a pig (I mean no offence). You say it's too powerful for you, but I reckon if you flew a well tuned 5in quad with a carbon fibre frame you'd realise how underpowered it actually is (or rather how far from optimal yours really is).
Still love your channel bro.
Also if it is designed for a specific sized prop than use that size
No autopilot features? use a PX4 stack next time. How long did the FC/ESC keep going for?
HobbyWing seems to have best ESCs
Awhhh, I wish I was allowed to fly a drone! Sadly, in my entire part of the province it's illegal.
I love the "concentration face" at 13:55
I would say however that the ‘overflowing’ hardware market is a very good thing. We have so much to choose from! We can truly make our own machines, it’s lovely!
I'm a bit late to the video but welcome to FPV! You didn't mention reshaping the arms to better fit the 5" props. Plastic is heavier than the carbon frames we typically use and 5" props are a bit less efficient than 6" would be esp for the motor size and extra frame weight
half the links dont work
any chance of updated list?
3d print frame not rigid enough for over 2 inch quad. and gopro+4s 2000mah is to over weight for 5 inch
Thanks for the input.
Hi, Really a great video
But the problem you had with the motor being stopped at the highest point of the throttle that same thing is happening to me but I don’t know whether it is the copper wire or capacitor needed or the esc is not calibrated properly🤔 and another problem is that when the motor is armed it automatically starts at a lowered speed then I have to the desired throttle means that the motor doesn’t stop at the lowest throttle rate😢
If anyone wants to help or give a suggestion please reply