2013 Ford Escape traction control/4x4 disabled/hill side assist disabled/ Abs warning Easy fix.
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- Опубликовано: 9 фев 2025
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IMPORTANT There are 2 types: ( with parking assist) ( without parking assist)
WITH AUTOMATED PARKING ASSIST:
amzn.to/2Xphw8a
WITHOUT AUTO. PARKING ASSIST
Black:
amzn.to/3xXqzK1
Aqua blue:
amzn.to/2UtB8qQ
ABS capable scan tool:
amzn.to/3zzPOpP
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Wife’s 2015 AWD Escape Titanium has had this intermittently for last three months. Watched your video, spent 30(ea) on sensors and replaced today. Took less than 30 minutes total (replaced both) and except for nearly stripping one screw (was stupid tight!) had no issues and the lights are gone. So grateful that you posted this-saved us $$$!
Great feedback , thank you for sharing.
Did you have the AWD overheating temp disabled warning come up aswell? I believe I have the same as got the abs sign warning aswell? Just thoight I'd check before I order new parts,and did all the warnings go after you fitted the new parts? TIA
Always use spline sockets when you work by the suspension area , as water always hit those nuts and screws and make them hard to remove, spline sockets would not strips the bolts .
@@chrisdavies1336 yea. i got the overheating warning, ABS and TC. I believe its one of the front sensors for mine.. Did you fix it?
@chrisdavies1336 I'm currently having this problem how did you resolve sir
Thank you so much!!!!!! 2014 Ford Escape Titanium. Had all the warning lights on. E brake, 4WD disabled, hill start assist disabled. Went to oreillys to get the codes on the chance I could pinpoint which front or back. C003A-11, C003A-4A, C0037-4A, C0037-07. Went and purchased the AWD speed sensors (rear). Pretty easy to take off the old and put in the new, with a little elbow grease. Afterwords took a little drive and the codes resolved. Mechanic quoted us $500 just for labor and parts. Ended up paying $70 for the two sensors thank to this video. Thank you so so so much.
ABS Sensors* not AWD sensors
I really appreciate you taking the time to share this for others . This shows just how much one can save . These parts stores are great to offer free diagnostics. Great job on this repair , and I hope everyone can continue to share this video for others. Thank you for the great feedback.
I want to thank you so much, my father just borrowed my car, he's had it for 24 hours and all the same things lit up on it and we were scared cause we don't have a lot of money to fix it. My car had everything your did and finding this video we changed the back sensor and that's what the problem was. Everywhere we were calling told us to bring it in to a ford dealership and we couldn't afford that in the slightest. So thank you for uploading this!
Love this comment , thank you so much for sharing.
Started having this same issue, came across your video and replaced both rear sensors... problem solved. Thank you so much for the video and information. You rock bro!
Glad this could help , thank you for the feedback.
Just came here to say thanks for saving me a hefty mechanic bill! Had this happen on my dad’s 2015 titanium AWD. Went down to the local AutoZone and they offer free OBD2 scans, so they scanned and confirmed it and got the part for $38 and replaced in my garage in under an hour.
That is terrific , thank you very much for sharing and the great feedback.
My 2013 started flashing all these lights recently and the ABS locked up on me today while driving which was scary to say the least. Thankfully restarting the car cleared it up long enough for me to get home safely and thanks for posting cuz you likely saved me a lot of 💵
Thank you for the excellent feedback, much appreciated.
@@s33therfan you're welcome
My escape it started doing that and it is scary when you live on a busy road and your car just doesn't want go. Thank you
I definitely know the feeling . This makes it totally not driveable or safe. Thank you for the feedback and thanks for watching.
Thank you very much! I have a 2018 Ford Escape SE and I had the ABS light, Hill Start Assist is disabled, and the 4WD Temporarily Disabled message. I could also feel resistance if I started driving sooner than 20 seconds after starting the car.
I got it scanned at AutoZone for free and found that it was the right rear sensor. I bought the part from eBay and after installing it, all the warning lights went away.
I did strip the T25 screw, which added an hour and a half to the install process. After I was done swearing, I managed to remove the screw by re-slotting it with a Dremel.
Great job , and thank you for sharing this experience.
Excellent instructions. Thank you for the step-by-step guidance. You save me a ton of money by doing this myself! I was nervous popping out the old sensor, but with a shot of WD-40, it did come out after prying underneath with a flathead screwdriver. P.S. I bought the new sensor at NAPA; after the repair, I went back and they were kind enough to clear out all the error codes (ABS failure, Hill start assist failure, 4WD failure) at *no cost*. Go NAPA!
Thank you very much for the terrific feedback.
Great video. This solved the "hill assist disabled" warning on my 2013 Escape. Saved me a couple hundred bucks at least. One additional tip, get a ratchet and a T25 socket. The location of the sensor on my car (right rear) was much more difficult to access than shown in this video. The ratchet was the only way I could get leverage on the sensor screw.
Thank you for the great feedback , and thanks for taking the time to share this information for others.
Thank you for this video almost sold the car after putting a transmission in it then this issue came up 4,000 miles after. You just saved me a new car loan!!
That is great to hear , thank you for the feedback.
Mine literally went out last night before our snow storm. I'm fishtailing like crazy and can't get my truck in to shop for another week. Thanks for the video!
Thank you for sharing and the great feedback.
Thank you for taking the time to share this information with us. Well done.
Thanks for the feedback , it is greatly appreciated.
My father-in-law's 2013 Escape has been having the same warning light come on. He took it for a diagnostic at the local Ford dealership and they are claiming is the "computer module" and want to charge him $1000 for the work. I am going to take it somewhere like O'Riellys and have them test it and see what they get. I'm hoping it is just these ABS sensors, if so, thank you my dude for pointing this out. Been trying to tell him for months that the dealership is literally just trying to rip him off. He won't listen.
Yes , these abs sensors are a very common failure. They are not expensive to replace oneself ( cheaper than a diagnostic ) just to rule them out. Thank you for sharing and hope all goes smoothly.
Hey could you update us please?
Today I went on a wild goose chase to find that sensor, finally found it at NAPA, and just replaced it. Took me 2 hours start to finish, since the existing sensor was stuck in there. But 2 hours of sweating is better than paying $500 at the dealer 😉 thanks for the help! Cleared the codes and fingers are crossed
Love comments like this . Great job replacing this yourself. Thank you for the feedback.
Thank you for the video, I have replaced the two sensors, no more warning lights. Easy job.
Thank you very much for sharing and the great feedback.
Thank you for this video!! I have a 2015 Escape which Ive owned since new. Starting doing all the same things. I purchased a abs capable scanner and identified a rr speed sensor. I ordered new speed sensor from Amazon. That made it stop going into limp mode but lights were still on. My scanner had a function where I could read each individual wheel sensor and I noticed rr speed sensor that I just replaced was throwing randon mph speeds even with car sitting still. Sooo I went to NAPA and bought a sensor from them without the park assist...bingo problem solved and all abs, traction control lights went off and car back to normal.
Great information .Thank you for sharing , and thanks for the feedback.
which scanner do you use?
Was having the exact same issue with the wife’s 2016! So glad I found this video!
Glad the video could help , thank you for the great feedback.
Same. Just started. I'm hoping this is what I need
My '17 Escape is doing this, might still be under the extended warranty from when I got it new, fingers crossed its covered. Otherwise I'll do it myself. Great video ! !
Thank you
Make sure when you order the replacement parts you make sure they are specifically for the BACK. The geometry requires specific REAR wheel configuration (angled differently). If you’re clamp screw is seized (like many are it seems) and you attempt to drill it out with a drimmel; be very careful - there is a risk of nicking the tone ring which is part of the wheel hub assembly. If the tone ring is damaged, the wheel hub assembly would require replacement, adding notable cost impact. Hope this helps.
God bless these people who make these repair videos God send I tell yah Thankyou for making this video
Thank you for the amazing feedback.
thanks man! Fixed the ABS/Hill assist light on my 2014 FWD escape (it was the left rear sensor), saved me a lot of $$$
Thank you very much for sharing and excellent feedback.
pretty sure i’m about to have to change the ne on my 2015 ecoboost se, watched this the first time and had it fixed in 5 mins, thanks for the help
Thank you for the feedback.
2016 Ford Escape and ABS and traction control lights came on last Tuesday. I can't find an auto parts store that has a code reader for this. They are saying their readers are for engine errors only, including O'Reillys (I saw someone in the comments mention them). OReillys said to call Belle Tire, which I did, and was told it would be $100 to use their computer reader thing. Frustrating. I may just get the parts and do it anyway. Thanks for the great video. And for the lug nuts vid!!
I really appreciate the feedback , hope all goes smoothly and you get this solved.
Like others have said in the comments, the T25 bolt stripped so I used a dremel to get it out. Replaced left rear sensor , per the code message, and am still getting error code. Tomorrow changing right rear sensor like you suggest and may unplug battery to clear code. Luckily, my car is still driveable even with error message. Thanks for your video!@@s33therfan
Update: unplugged battery in hopes of clearing code but no luck after changing both rear sensors. Took car to shop and it was a faulty wire harness. Hoping my comments help others like your video helped me.
I wish I had seen this $350 ago! Lol...Seems so simple. If it goes out again I'll definitely do it myself. Thanks for posting this!
Thank you for the feedback , much appreciated.
did the code come back, a lot of times its rust build up that lifts the senor for a weak signal, have to grind down the surface and clean the hole.
Thank you, this is the exact problem I'm having with my 2017 Escape.
Thank you for watching , and your feedback.
@@s33therfan I replaced it today and it was just as easy as it looked on your video.
Same here, I'm going to try changing them out myself.
Pretty sure it's the rear passenger side.
Update: Changed both of my rear ABS speed sensors and all my problems went away !
Im having this happen to our escape aswell. Should i just change both rears at same time? Or scan to see which one its triggering. My luck the other side will go next week lol so sometimes just easier to do both!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video very helpful
Thank you for the excellent feedback.
Thanks for this video. My 2015 had all the same symptoms. Be careful on ABS sensor purchase as the park assist makes it the unique part number. Don't let them sell you the the basic part. NAPA had the correct part at the best price. Also noted that I had all warnings listed and active but the code reader showed no faults. I was advised to tske my car to a Ford dealer for deep diagnostic. Screw that. I changed both sensors. And the car is back to driving normally. The failure was intermittent. The car would hesitate while putting up messages when starting out at intersections. Its dangerous. For less than $100 dollars, I was able to get my car driving again. Where's the link to buy you a coffee card?
Excellent information thank you , I appreciate you taking the time to leave great feedback.
Great job helping a bunch of us !
Thank you very much.
I replaced my wheel speed sensors because mine did the very same thing yours did. But my right wheel axle was bad which also was throwing these codes. Your vacation dwi was a big help to me tho. Thanks hanks
Sorry about the last line. Don’t know what happened lol.
Thank you so much for posting this! Saved us a lot of $$$!
Thank you very much for the great feedback.
Very helpful thank you. Mechanic shop over charged and charged again for the mistake.
That is exactly why I love doing my own work. Glad the video could be of help and best of luck on your future projects.
I know this is an old video am having this problem with my ford kuga 2016 diesel titanium with the front nearside sensor I’ve had the sensor replaced but still getting abs and traction control light on the dash the wire was damaged the garage said they soldered it back together so am think this is the problem my question is is this wire just a plug on both ends or is one end wired in to the ecu so I can do this myself instead of going back to the garage. Thanks
It may be damaged , I am not sure which one you need but I would check on ebay. Here is one that I found. Thanks for watching.
ebay.us/hOBlzf
Locktite on the torx head screw. Read to use a soldering iron to warm up - soften - the Locktite b4 unscrewing - YMMV. 🙂
Great tip , thank you for the feedback.
Champion, great directions
Thank you for the kind words.
does the black one with out parking assist need calibration? if so, can you do that without another tool?
Mine did not need any calibration but some might. Wish I could be more help.
I'm having this exact issue right now and I believe it is from hitting a pole. I did not make a wide enough turn coming out of the gas station and my back passenger tire took a good hit and I completed my turn... Since that I have been having these issues you explained and my tire is slightly tiptoed.
Did your tire get affected at all?
My tires were fine , the sensor just went bad all at once. If yours is noticeably out of alignment , I would start there and hopefully nothing is damaged. I know these escapes are undriveable once the abs goes crazy. Wish I could be more help , and thank you for the feedback.
Your the man !! Just saved me $450 bucks with the diongnost!! Thanks agin.. this will help meny meny people!!
I appreciate the terrific feedback , thank you. Here is another video that you migjt find helpful.
ruclips.net/video/MzTiX3pmavo/видео.html
How many key cycles before everything clears? Or do I need to go have codes cleared?
If it doesn't clear you might try disconnecting the negative. One of the major part stores might delete the code also if you don't have a scan tool. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for this video! My escape is doing exactly this!
Thank you for watching.
We have a 2013 Ford Escape that is throwing all these same codes Hillside assist traction control all of it we changed all four ABS wheel sensors and it's still kind of doing the same thing goes into limp mode the traction control goes in and out four wheel drive in and out so we hooked it up to three different computers is throwing no codes it says everything is in the green so our next step is maybe a faulty wire harness?
Thank you so much for video really help me understand what's wrong with my vehicle
Thank you for the great feedback , and thanks for watching.
So where does that wire go that you removed from the ABS sensor?
Do you happen to remember what the codes were? My 18 escape has the same symptoms aside from the delay when taking off. I have the codes c42200 c40164 and c41564. I haven’t had any luck seeing what causes these codes by doing online research.
Oh and ps. I did try to check the ohm readings on the speed sensors but my meter isn’t very good. I unplugged the passenger front and rear to check them. Was going to do all four but I plugged those two back in and all the warnings went away for about a week.
Thank you for explanation, I had same alarm, my Escape 2013 uses the blue model, I replaced and the ABS and Hill Assist disappeared, but for some reason now I have the 4WD temporarily disabled, I also replaced the front ABS sensor too, do you think the 4WD alarm can be related with front sensor?
It may need to be cleared with a scan tool or disconnect the battery for 10 minutes. If that fails there is most likely still a bad sensor. Sometimes they will be bad right out of the box. Thanks for watching.
Hey I have a question about the AC compressor on that Explorer. How hard is it to change the AC compressor out with the motor in the vehicle? I know theres what 2 lines and 2 bolts and a stud with a nut, so once you take that all lose how hard is it to slip the compressor off the stud and turn it or feed it in behind that rail that goes across? And is there anything else you have to remove or just the lines and the nut and 2 bolts?
Yes , the ac compressor is a bit of a pain. Due to those studs what I did was loosened the sub frame in the front and I might have barely loosened the rear. Anyways it gave me the slack to push it down with my foot while slipping it off. Seems like the last one , I switched places with the studs on top, there is no reason for them to be there. Great question and thanks for watching.
@@s33therfan Thanks for getting back to me and I liked and subbed the channel. Looking at the stud it kinda looks like the end of it would take a female/inverted torx socket so if the stud would twist out of there and the other two are bolts it should come right out maybe. So there’s just one stud right? If I loosen the front and back bolts of the sub frame just enough to slip the compressor off it shouldn’t hurt anything as far as everything that’s attached to the sub frame I don’t think. You wouldn’t happen to remember the torque for the sub frame bolts would ya? If not no worries I should be able to find it. Thanks for the helpful info to
Yes , I believe it is just one stud I'm probably confusing it with another. As long as it's just being lowered a little in the front it should not affect the lines or anything , just keep an eye on things and if need be remove a line connector etc. The best I remember I went around 110 ft lb. Alot of times it's hard to find those torque values so I will check the torque on all 4 required to turn it and get an average. Pretty sure it was between 110 and 115 ft lb. Thank you for watching and the sub.
@@s33therfan thanks so much for the info I appreciate you getting back to me, I’m going to try to swap the compressors out. I was reading the dealer manual and it says that the stud comes out with the compressor man that would be great I could put 2 nuts on there and twist it out or I even have the female torx socket if that’s what on the end of the stud, and if that’s the case it should come right out without messing with anything else, but if not I’ll do it like you said by loosening up the sub frame a lil bit. Thanks again for all the help. And the torque numbers
Thanks for the video. I have a few questions before ordering the replacement. Is this the same as JV6Z2C190A? Is it a generic model or OEM? By parking assist, do you refer to those models with proximity sensors in the back or the ones that auto park by themselves? Anad can it be installed on either side? It does not specify the placement. Sorry for all the questions. Just trying to make sure I get the correct model.
Thanks.
To the first question , these are aftermarket sensors . The automatic parking is the ones used here that I refer to. Lastly the sensor goes on either side right or left. Hope this helps and thanks for watching.
On my car the gray one was the same for both rear wheels. Yes my car has the back up sensors that tell me if a car is coming near me and also has that other switch that let's the car parallel park itself. I still have to see about the abs light and proximity sensors that are in the front.they are black and similar to the rear ones.
My escape is showing hill start assist not working as well as traction control, and brake light is on, and lastly the low tire pressure also, however the car rides perfectly fine. Would changing that make the codes go away?
If you go by autozone they can pull the codes for free. The tire pressure is unrelated and most likely a bad tire sensor. The abs sensor is the culprit 9 times out if 10 for the other issues you are having. Thank you for your question.
So is the sensor that makes the car jerking and feel hard to move and also traction light blinking?
Yes . Thank you for the feedback and for watching.
Have you come across an AWD overheating sensor and 4×4 disable but no code
No , but it is possible. These sensors are prone for failure. Thanks for watching.
@@s33therfan tha ks for reply
Is it the same for a 2016 I’m having the same exact problem
Yes , thank you for watching.
What size torque bolt/screw size is that?? Thank you!
It should be a T25. Make sure to spray it with wd40 prior, they are known to get stuck and strip. Thanks for watching.
@@s33therfan definitely learned the hard way and stripped it 😅 but thanks for the helpful video!
I was just driving in a snow storm on the freeway and my car started sliding all over the place. Thankfully i was able to turn around and come home. I hope this fixes my car. I usually love driving in the snow 😢
Sorry to hear this , glad you are okay . Hope this fixes the issue for you as well.
hi,so if park assist not available light comes on, it mean it has park assist im guessing?
Yes. Thanks for watching.
Yes sir, thank you for your assistance
You are most welcome , I appreciate you watching.
This exact same message is coming on in the message center on my girlfriend’s 2020 escape. Makes sense to me about the speed sensors being bad. Messing with the abs and awd
Hi my 2014 Ford Escape shows a warning message "Hill Start Assist Not Available". It pops up every time when I drive. Is it the same issue and the same fix?
It sounds like the same symtom. Thanks for the feedback.
Hello Sir , Hod did you figure out which side to dig on ?
At this time I didn't have the abs capable scan tool , so I took it to a shop to have it diagnosed. For the cost of a diagnostic I could have replaced them all though. This made the escape too dangerous to drive , so defintely hope this information can help others. Thank you for the feedback
How do I verify if it has the park assist by looking in the car. What does the park assist do?
If you have the parking assist , there should be some buttons for this below your climate control knobs . Thanks for the feedback.
thank you so much for posting, $$ saver! Only difference for me is the ABS and hill side assist lights are still on after replacing the sensor. Really happy I no longer get 4WD disabled message that comes with lose of power to the wheels though. Any recommendations to get the lights turned off as well?
Have someone with a scan tool delete the codes or disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes. That should reset the lights. Thanks for watching.
Could a bad ABS sensor drain\kill your battery? My traction control light is on and the hill side assist is also disabled. At random times my car will notify me saying it is powering down to save battery. It will also randomly not start like the battery is dead or the ignition is going out.
Not likely to be the Abs sensors. However a bad battery can cause a host of issues. I would start with a new battery and go from there. If the battery is new then I would try figuring out the drain issue. Thanks for watching.
Did you solve the battery problem. I have the same warning lights and dead battery. Google searched the issue and a ford forum person said the abs pump could stay on draining the battery. I had no trouble codes with my scanner
2016 Ford Escape Titanium. I was backing out of a parking spot, slid on some sand the the hill traction and ABS lights are now on but seems fine driving. 38k miles. I guess I'll get it scanned at an auto parts store and see what side it's giving me. I am surprised tbh.
Yes , it may just need a reset. Of course the Abs scan tool is required . Hope its a simple fix , thank you for watching.
@@s33therfan It felt like I ran something over...is it possible to feel the tone ring crack? I just have no idea what it could have been while backing up if it was related.
Lol update got it scanned. Says left rear wheel speed sensor mechanical failures. Should be a simple sensor swap then?
Yes , should be pretty simple. I have links in the description with the various color sensor. This reminds me of how mine went out , just driving through the back yard where it was a little rough. Left me in disbelief but the new sensor fixed the issue no problem. Thanks again for the feedback.
What scanner did you use? I took mine to Autozone and it came back without any codes.
You need any scan tool with abs capability. I have an autel mx808 , but at this time I had the code read at a shop. Thanks for the feedback.
@@s33therfan Thanks for the tip!
Hi, does the system need to be reset or reprogram after replacing the new sensor?
No programming , however if you do not have a scan tool you may have to disconnect the negative cable on the battery to reset the light. Thanks for watching.
i replaced my left rear wheel sensor, but i’m still getting a tone ring error and the No Hill Start Assist message with traction control turned off.
It may need the code deleted. I have heard others state they had the wrong sensor or wrong side etc. Hope this helps.
How do I know which rear sensor to replace? I have the part that is compatible for both sides but not sure which sensor is the problem?
Without a abs capable scan tool , it would be trial and error. I would replace them in pairs. The cost of a diagnostic will most likely exceed all of the sensors. Thank you for watching.
The light is coming on in my 2015 escape but no other reactions I just keep driving with no issues should I replace the sensors anyway
It would not hurt , the diagnostic fee would most likely cost more. Best of luck on what you decide and thanks for watching.
My 2009 escape has ABS light on, traction light are on. When I put it in drive it feels like the left front tire is dragging for a few seconds then it drives fine. The the Hill assist comes on and says it isn’t working. I’m going to get it scanned, see if this is the issue. If so, wish me luck! Super helpful video. I can do this. I think. Fingers crossed. 😬
It sure sounds like text book bad abs sensor. Hope you get it solved quickly. Thank you for the feedback.
Did you figured it out? Thanks
Mine is doing the exact same thing so fingers crossed I can find somebody to fix it
I was having this same problem, husband replaced the sensor plus put on a new rear axle ( for a different reason) and still having the problem. Problem says it is rear passenger sensor but he replaced both. Figured one was bad so switched them and no luck. What do I do next? I have a 2014 titanium escape. Code still showing same. HELP!
Very strange. Sensor has to be good , possibly wire or connectors within damaged. Another thing , if axle was replaced on pass side in question. maybe issue with the axle itself. Some are magnetized some have a reluctor ring the sensor reads. Possibly parts store gave wrong cv . Thats the only thing I can think may be an issue. Hope you get this solved
@@s33therfan thanks!
@@s33therfan what was the fix ?
what was the fix ?
Hi i have had the same problem as everyone else i got all the warning lights on last week so i orderd the parts to do it and now ive put new abs sensors on also a new rear brake caliper the lights are still on also my parking brake light is on now when it wasnt before also it come up all wheel drive off. It never said that before i replaced the abs sensors
I would take to autozone and have the codes read and get a printout. It might be a separate issue , possibly new sensors bad, maybe they sent the incorrect sensors etc. Hope this helps.
Could this be the same issue my Ford Explorer is having? The exact same thing happened to me regarding the hill assist and the traction control causing it to not want to accelerate and the dealership is wanting to say it’s the transmission without checking anything else out.. I’m not paying $3,500 for a new transmission if this is the issue
It is very likely , a lot shops do not charge much for a diagnostic so this could tell you exactly which part and you could save money fixing it yourself. Thanks for watching.
Go to any O'Reilly. The scanner the have detect ASB system failures, and the let you use it for free.
Thank you 💯
You bet , thanks for watching.
So my existing speed sensor is dark aqua blue. Don’t have park assist but do have Hill Assist. Which is correct?
yes , I believe the aftermarket NON PARK ASSIST are black. Thanks for watching
Thanks for the video! Your lug nut video which goes hand in hand with this one was equally helpful. Replaced 2 sensors and ALL lug nuts tomorrow. Thanks!👍🏻
I went to autozone and they told me it was a Engine coolant bypass value c control circuit something totally different. But, after seeing the video, it looks like this problem instead. It's Sunday, so, I will wait until tomorrow and have my husband get the parts from NAPA. I hope this works. I will update afterwards.
Hope this fixes yours also , thanks for watching.
Update?
Where can I get mine scanned ? Different model 2016 Ford Focus SE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION. 2WD But doing the same thing hill start assist not available light and traction control light turn on sometimes then turn off.
I would call around at any local shops and ask if they have abs scan tool. Most shops can do this no problem and usually charge around $75 - $100 diagnostic. Best of luck on yours and thank you for the feedback.
@@s33therfan UPDATE - I fixed it . Found the cause. Bad tire balance which finally ruined tire. It had bald spot and a chunk of thread came off. I barely escaped from a blowout. Tire balanced replaced. Both lights staying off now. Very smooth ride.
Does it matter if you get a front wheel or all wheel drive sensor
They are all the same except for with auto assist and without auto assist. The front abs sensors are designed slightly different than the rear also. Thanks for watching.
Did yours come with a o ring
Yes it did. You can use the old O ring most likely. The O ring in this application does very little anyways. Thanks for watching.
Where can I get a new bolt from?
I cannot recall the exact bolt . I am think around an m6x1 or so. Any bolt close to that length and will the same thread will work . Thanks for the feedback.
Thank you for your video!!!!
Thank you for the feedback , and thanks for watching.
my model comes with park assits, and im trying to buy a nuew sensor but no one says its park assits compatible
amzn.to/3BkkEUJ
This will fit , ignore the compatibility. This tan one should match your existing and is with park assist. Thanks for watching
@@s33therfan thank you, i forgot to mention that my escape is 2014, will also work?
ohhhhhh myyyy goddd it worked with automated park assits. thank you very much
Does anyone know the PIN number for this sensor to order it?
Yes
Thank you, this did help
Thank you for watching.
I have the same exact lights just came on my 2016 explorer, and 4 wd selector lost communication , its happened after I replaced the battery few days after.
It sure sounds like an abs sensor. It could be coincidence. Same thing occured after unplugging the battery for the sun roof motor replacement. Thanks for the feedback.
I got this problem too, but for me it does not disable the hill side assist. Only the Traction Control and ABS. And sometimes says "AWD Overheated" or something like that. I ordered a ForScan tool off amazon today, and it should arrive tomorrow hopefully. I can drive the car fine except in the first 2 minutes of driving where it locks a wheel or something like that.
Because it does not disable the hill side assist, i have a strong idea that it might be an ABS sensor on the front, but i will see tommorrow.
Thank you for the feedback.
@@s33therfan well, turns out it's the resr right sensor. Thanks again
I replaced my rear passage hub assembly and got all three lights on, I also replaced the abs speed sensors but lights are still in and it drives under powered
You may try unplugging the battery to reset the abs , but if that does not work a shop will have to reset it . Thank you for watching
Thank having this problem with my mother's 2020 Ford escape titanium
Thank you for watching.
Thank you, let me try that out
Thank you for watching.
is it the same for the 2014 titanium?
Yes, thank you for watching.
Hi there I have same issue plus I get transmission fault
I would start with replacing these for sure. Thanks for watching.
Thanks. Gracias.
Thank you very much
UPDATE - HAVE 2016 Ford Focus SE 2.0 L. Found cause of both hill assist light and traction control light turning on and then off. It was bad tire balance. I've replaced and rebalance tire. It got ruined had bald spot and thread was ripped off. Barely escaped a blowout. Just before heading to work noticed bald spot on tire. Got to work and saw thread came off. Now both lights been off nearly a week and very smooth ride. And no the vibration wasn't that noticeable. Just barely any. Yeah everyone else was saw it was wheel speed sensor.
Thank you for the update and sharing this informatuon , it will be helpful for others. Great information.
I had the same issue. replaced both sensors, cleared the codes but it still comes back when i try to drive.
Possibly an issue with the front sensors. Thanks for watching.
@@s33therfan computer Reads back sensor still
@@chrisnealdiscgolf7438 Did you resolve this problem ? I went to autozone and they told me it was a Engine coolant bypass value c control circuit something totally different. But, after seeing the video, it looks like this problem instead. It's Sunday, so, I will wait until tomorrow and have my husband get the parts from NAPA. I hope this works.
How you can know the difference between rear right from rear left?
Right is the passenger side and left is the drivers side. Thanks for watching.
The abs, traction control lights came on after replacing rear hub assembly on my uncle’s 2013 Ford Escape titanium
Anyone know where to get a new screw for that?
You can use any small metric bolt , usually 8mm headed bolt. I believe it is a M6x1 or something , but don't quote me on that. Tractor supply is a great place to find random bolts of all sizes and lengths , they also have a thread size checker. Take the one from the other side and match the thread and length , the head type does not matter. Hope this helps.
i have to take the tires off?
It would be difficult to say the least without removing the tire. I suppose lifting the vehicle might make it possible as long as you could work around the wheel and see what you were doing. Great question and thank you for watching.
My ford escape 2013 have the abs, brake light on, the scanned say the driver assistent sensor is the problem, but its most expensive.
Having the same issues - just got quoted $2,800 from the dealership to fix all of this
I appreciate you sharing . A lot of people may not realize how expensive these repairs can be. By replacing this yourself , you can save . I have all the links in the description. The last I checked they were running $20 to $30 each for the wheel sensors. Thank you for watching.
thanks a lot
Thank you for watching.