@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I didn't tell you so sorry or anything or do my work I gave you a hint of something you can do yo it's something that would actually have worked but no I guess you're going this way
@@reweydewy Yup, same engine found in the non-SkyActiv 2nd gen Mazda3 and a few others. Almost bulletproof, a concept Ford isn't too familiar with these days 😆
I have a 2014 model fusion. Basically the same vehicle. It's been a great car and kinda wish they still made them but in the same fashion as the 14-16's though. Good to hear your blessings on these fusions Ivan. Love your vids, have learned a lot about diagnostics through your channel, very much appreciated!!
Another great video Ivan! It's amazing and frustrating to me to know that even with computer diagnostics you can't seem to find the expertise required to really FIX the problem. This kind of diagnostics isn't taught in schools and it takes a "different" mind set to know how to navigate the computer controlled world we are now living in. Amazing to watch you Sir.
That was fun. I am mystified (somewhat) by vehicles that (over the years) get a 'poor' reputation for reliability and quality - then one like this pops up that (apparently) has been rock solid for 7 years and 230k miles to destroy that narrative. It's probably a well-loved one owner Fusion that has a library of regular maintenance/service I'd guess. (Still shaking my head as it lives in a salt environment). Thank you Ivan.
For your reference, Ford connectors are know to be fail points. Simply disconnect/connect several times will often correct wheel speed sensors, crank and cam position sensors, and all other kinds of other weather-exposed maladies. You can change the attached sensors and "correct" a problem, but what you are really correcting is sorry connections at the connectors.
Great work once again Ivan. Had a mondeo few years ago it would sometimes bring on the abs for no reason when braking, even gently & nearly hit a few cars because of the increase in braking distance. Checked abs sensor output with a voltmeter all OK, then noticed a little play in front wheel bearing, it was the outer race had started to rotate in the hub which has the sensor pickup in it & was replicating a wheel lockup scenario.
Greetings from Venezuela... I always watch your videos to learn from your experience and the experience of people who know... I like to learn about these topics
INTERMITTENT code setting. Lots of fun, unless like you did to "encourage it" to show. THAT'S a big diagnostic bonus when that happens! This reminds me of an 04 Ford Van 350 with the 6.8 V10. Intermittently (what else) the engine would stall out while driving in the light cruise mode. Using my Fluke 87 DMM and my Fluke 98 scope on the meter side I zeroed in on the electrical for the pump. Pressure/Volume was good until the pump stopped. Using the "pattern driving" like you did, I finally found it on the output side of the inertia switch. (Remember those?) Background. The van originally was a no start. The night shift auto electrician diagnosed then replaced the fuel pump. He also replaced the FP relay from past experiences with overheated FP relay contacts. What I found was the connector terminal at the inertia switch and the socket at the wire from the switch going to the FP had overheated. They had that dull brownish look. One new connector assembly and one new inertia switch, no more intermittent. That terminal and socket got hot over time before the pump quit. The night guy did his job right. This new problem took some time to show itself. I just fixed the new problem. Good one Ivan!
I still have my 98 blazer, just hit 290k now and my abs quit working. It's still on all the time. It don't bother me none lmfao!! Nice fix Ivan!! Great job
Yes, as you stated: That good engine/transmission combo was last made in 2016! That is almost antique by now's standards. Every time a manufacturer makes a great running reliable combo, they change it for something horrible, a sin those Ecoboost coolant leaker engine blocks.
My 2013 Ford Fusion Titanium Hybrid with 103,000 just lit up my dash. The scan was the right front wheel speed sensor. I replaced it with a factory sensor for thirty bucks. That wasn't the issue. It turned out to be the tone ring on the hub. I live in New Hampshire, so I'll blame it on winter.
As you said in the salt belt areas electronic parts /sensors outside the vehicle are prone to earlier than would be expected failure.The owner & viewers should take note of thid on all vehicles to replace them when there is work done on /around them (preventive maintance.)Cheers Ivan it was a good learning video.
Well it’s sure is nice to see the proper diagnostic tooling used. A sensible direction can be taken to pin point from there. I really like all the info you can get. I worked many years with CAT with programs that are written by non mechanics and at times can be misleading I always found it difficult to use electronic wiring diagrams over paper …. Ya I’m old lol and retired now
The ABS wheel speed sensor is a common issue with the Ford Fusion. I have a 2013 and a 2018 both had the same problem and it only seems to be with the front ones. You can get them for $20 each on rock auto and it’s an easy job to replace them. You take it to any shop they’re going to charge you $300 minimum to replace one ☠️
Bonus upload - I have been 100% happy since watching another fix! 230K on the clock and needed a current fix due to 'whatever'. Nice to hear Ivan giving this 2016 Ford Fusion model the 'thumbs up'. Mileage says a lot.
3:39 - 158.46mph translates to 255km/h, and that tells me right away that the speed sensor data is an 8 bit data signal. If I'm right 255 is the value for "Not Available" for that data on the CAN bus. 254 is "Error". The value will of course be different for signals with different number of bits in the CAN frame. However sometimes the "Not Available" and "Error" state is handled the same since there's no point in having different handling of it in the system. Sniffing the CAN bus can sometimes be useful if there aren't any PIDs for certain data that appears on the CAN bus and you have sporadic errors that are hard to trace. Also in some cases the system might just set an "Error" state, but the CAN signal can have extra bits indicating what kind of error it is, e.g. short to ground or short to battery.
Terminal fretting was a huge problem with GM with multic 2 injector connectors and front ABS connectors on older AC variable reluctance sensors. The ABS sensor would be diagnosed as bad and a wheel bearing/sensor assemble would be smashed in. The act of unplugging and plugging in new one would fix problem for a few months. Then same issue. Tech claims bad bearing, shop warranties bearing, and the cycle continues when it is a bad pigtail. Have seen this many times.
Ivan, you are 100% correct. The customer wanted a diagnosis not guess & hope. Now he knows that it is repaired and can drive it with confidence and not have to worry about breaking down.
I have a 2016 escape and had to replace the both rear abs sensors. Got the same fault codes but the second one caused limp mode after starting and initial drive. It be like that until it set the light then it would drive normal. A quick floor it and the light would set.
I love Ford's. Repairing the 3V Tritons paid for my last house and the various eco boost engines are going to set me up for retirement. Keep those "better ideas" coming Ford. Seriously, I own and drive a lot of brands because most every manufacturer makes a decent one once in a while and some real stinkers often.
I've run into that as well, but since Ivan could physically touch at least 1 sensor and recreate the fault, this time the angle sensor issue must not have been related.
This model is plagued with that same issue. The correct action that worked for my fusion problem was to remove the speed sensor from the wheel hub and clean the built up metallic gunk from the inside well and push the sensor back in with ease
Fusion, mondeo, galaxy all have common problems with intermittent ABS faults, because of both front ABS sensors. They are known to go bad where the rubber slides into bracket. steering position fault is common on fords if there are other fault codes.
I'd say it was a wise decision. Ford never made money on small cars, just made them to build brand loyalty. They weren't very good cars anyway, so I'm not sure they were successful in building brand loyalty. Probably for the best they got out of the small car market.
@@xanderlander8989 they've lost me. I was their biggest fan from the 80's-2004. I'll never own anything they produce because they are basically all junk. Most mechanics hate working on them. Simple maintenance is also a joke. Changing oil, adding fluids, headlights, etc on some models is just maddening. F series is what's keeping them barely under water. It's a sinking ship, no matter what they do.
@@fredsalter1915 I would surmise all the bending over time weaken the insulation to the point of minute cracks (probably no visable to the naked eye) allow moisture intrusion ?
@@fredsalter1915 The answer is not always consistent. But a vehicle with over 200K on the clock, there has been countless twisting, bending and pulling on those wires. Could be simple wear and tear? Not to mention all the road debris that got slung around inside that wheel well. Could be someone working on the car didn't exercise enough caution with those wires? Who knows?
That's a common problem when unexperienced mechanics not separating sensor harness from the brake hose during brake job. Then caliper slides down from the knuckle causing the wiring rapture inside the harness.
@@HelicopterDad-xk5sx This makes a big difference. My 2010 is the 2.5L (thank goodness) and even better it's a 6spd manual SE base model. Not a lot to go wrong with it. I just turned 100K KM (60K miles) and no looking back. Only problem for me this is the time/mileage where lots of maintenance stuff is happening. I think my perceived disdain for this car is that I clumped it with the ecoboost models which are all problematic. 2.5L for the win.
The other car is an 09 Ford focus with 755,000 miles on it had to replace a starter a couple years ago valve cover gaskets a couple times. still has the original alternator the engine and trans (5 sp manual) have never been touched it's starting to use oil, it will burn a quarter inch off of the stick from the full mark in an 8000 mile oil change interval !
I get it that a mechanic doesn't always want to come home and watch someone else do mechanic work.. I get it because as a long ago Top40 deejay I NEVER came home and wanted to listen to More Music... But your channel is different in that you present videos that aren't everyday tuneup stuff but, rather, your vids are always engaging MYSTERIES... Any everyday mechanic gains new knowledge... about equipment and about troubleshooting. Your show is FREE ENTERTAINMENT AND FREE EDUCATION... And clearly my choice over most TV offerings... BTW... do you know that a cell phone can be connected to a TV thru an HDMI cable?
Yeah, but most people have smart TVs nowadays with RUclips as an app built in. Also Amazon fire stick, Roku, android streaming box, etc Then, can link cellphone to the TV and can comment while watching the TV
I'm at 6:07... and turning left causes left front speed sensor to go bad! ¿¿ I'd suspect that the sensor's wiring gets stretched turning left causing connection to go bad ??
As long as they have the 2.5 they’re great. Unfortunately if you get one with the horrible 1.6 ecoboost, you’ll be replacing engines regularly. I don’t know if the 2.0 ecoboost is immune or not, I’ve heard conflicting reports.
I don't trust them, but I know somebody with a very trusty 2.0 EcoBoost that has gone well past 200k. I drove a 1.5 EcoBoost at my driving school. Liked the car, but that powertrain was a miserable heap. I believe the Hybrid was much nicer.
@@benjamindoyle668 believe it or not the 2.5 NA engine is the same old Mazda MZR family that was used for years, just a bigger brother to the 2.3 MZR. I think the hybrids to this day still use the 2.5 MZR.
@@upload15613 Thats when Mazda & Ford had a partnership can not remember when they parted ways or the reason, neither company have a great reputation here (AUS).
Nice diag, Ivan! Initially I thought it might be cable flexure that wouldn't be caught with the car lifted, but that turned out to be only one side, the other was terminal fretting - what are the odds?
Due to the age, the customer was good at taking the recommendation to just swap out BOTH sensors If he wants, just keep the cleaned sensor as a backup?
I as an Avid follower think it is time for Ivan to make a list of His recommend Car’s and truck for any and all that are not interested in investing in the Over Priced New Junk they sell nowadays. 🤘🏼🤘🏼🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Over last weekend I replaced my Fuel Pump on my gmc envoy . Right afterwards I got a misfire and flashing check engine light . I was puzzled 😢 . Turned out the Ignition coil on cly 1 went bad . Was scratching may head how I got a misfire from replacing Fuel Pump
I wonder if people call Ivan and ask for a Diagnosis. Then complain about costing too much and or have it diagnosised and not paying him for the diagnosis. I had a customer try that. Before the job started. I just told the person. DIAGNOSIS cost money and is the tools I use. Cash up front for my labor. Parts I don't buy. Nor is the labour for fixing the vehicle. Each code diagnostics takes time IF you want to have them repaired.
I share your aversion to the parts cannon, BUT if this had been my car, I would've risked the $100 and 30 minutes of my time before driving 6 hours one way for a diagnosis.
That’s the thing, the diagnosis, you need to know what it is/was…. nothing worse than having a poke about and the light goes out, Is it coming back again ? Most do,but the ones that don’t, well you have no idea what it was and if the light comes back again you have no idea if it is the same problem !
Hmm with all these control modules communicating with each other, just have clear the system (after taking the snap shot of the original codes) And verify the fix afterwards
Yes, a bad wheel speed sensor can cause that steering angle sensor fault. Same thing happened with my friend's 2017 Ford F350. Had a RR speed sensor code along with the steering angle sensor fault and an ABS module fault code. I determined that the speed sensor was the problem and after replacement, the other two codes went away too. That was last year and those codes have never come back.
I would like to know. Any Ford with a 2.0 Zetec engine. I am interested in. Especially with higher mileage. The 2.0 Zetec is a great engine that can run forever. I have a 2003 Focus with the same engine.
Wow, the distrust of local shops made this customer go all the way to Ivan 😢 Since he obviously uses the car as Uber or Lyft, just wants the correct repair done the first time. But, yeah Google search should have pointed out the sensors from the get go... This problem is similar to other makes/models on the rust belt. Some models, the abs sensors are also built in the wheel hub bearing assembly 😢 So glad this was an easy fix
I'm willing to bet the wires were fatigued, and if the technician doing the brake job had the suspension fully extended and turned the wheel lock to lock as we're prone to do to get access to caliper bolts and whatnot, it stressed the wires juuust enough outside their normal range of travel that the fault developed. :)
It's got 244,000 on it now
no ABS warning, no parking or brake failure lights
thank you very much ivan good job !
Wow amazing! Keep on trucking! 💪😎
That's definitely a bad sensor
@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics that A bad sensor totally agree
But I showed you wouldn't tell you the song or do anything
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I didn't tell you so sorry or anything or do my work I gave you a hint of something you can do yo it's something that would actually have worked but no I guess you're going this way
I think the 2.5 I4 is one of Ford’s greatest engines. Port injection and no turbo they just run forever.
The reason why is they bought mazda, changed a few things and called it a duratec
@@reweydewy Yup, same engine found in the non-SkyActiv 2nd gen Mazda3 and a few others. Almost bulletproof, a concept Ford isn't too familiar with these days 😆
I have a 2014 model fusion. Basically the same vehicle. It's been a great car and kinda wish they still made them but in the same fashion as the 14-16's though. Good to hear your blessings on these fusions Ivan. Love your vids, have learned a lot about diagnostics through your channel, very much appreciated!!
I’ve done bearings and speed sensors on these too. It’s a Christmas miracle it’s lasted this long.
Another great video Ivan! It's amazing and frustrating to me to know that even with computer diagnostics you can't seem to find the expertise required to really FIX the problem. This kind of diagnostics isn't taught in schools and it takes a "different" mind set to know how to navigate the computer controlled world we are now living in. Amazing to watch you Sir.
That was fun. I am mystified (somewhat) by vehicles that (over the years) get a 'poor' reputation for reliability and quality - then one like this pops up that (apparently) has been rock solid for 7 years and 230k miles to destroy that narrative.
It's probably a well-loved one owner Fusion that has a library of regular maintenance/service I'd guess. (Still shaking my head as it lives in a salt environment). Thank you Ivan.
It's got 276,000 on it now and it's not a one owner I bought it secondhand just about two years ago had 60,000 miles on it at the time
That steering angle sensor code, combined with intermittent faults at both front wheels would have thrown many off the path. Awesome job 👍
For your reference, Ford connectors are know to be fail points. Simply disconnect/connect several times will often correct wheel speed sensors, crank and cam position sensors, and all other kinds of other weather-exposed maladies. You can change the attached sensors and "correct" a problem, but what you are really correcting is sorry connections at the connectors.
Great work once again Ivan. Had a mondeo few years ago it would sometimes bring on the abs for no reason when braking, even gently & nearly hit a few cars because of the increase in braking distance. Checked abs sensor output with a voltmeter all OK, then noticed a little play in front wheel bearing, it was the outer race had started to rotate in the hub which has the sensor pickup in it & was replicating a wheel lockup scenario.
Greetings from Venezuela... I always watch your videos to learn from your experience and the experience of people who know... I like to learn about these topics
INTERMITTENT code setting. Lots of fun, unless like you did to "encourage it" to show. THAT'S a big diagnostic bonus when that happens!
This reminds me of an 04 Ford Van 350 with the 6.8 V10. Intermittently (what else) the engine would stall out while driving in the light cruise mode.
Using my Fluke 87 DMM and my Fluke 98 scope on the meter side I zeroed in on the electrical for the pump. Pressure/Volume was good until the pump stopped.
Using the "pattern driving" like you did, I finally found it on the output side of the inertia switch. (Remember those?)
Background. The van originally was a no start. The night shift auto electrician diagnosed then replaced the fuel pump. He also replaced the FP relay from past experiences with overheated FP relay contacts.
What I found was the connector terminal at the inertia switch and the socket at the wire from the switch going to the FP had overheated. They had that dull brownish look. One new connector assembly and one new inertia switch, no more intermittent. That terminal and socket got hot over time before the pump quit. The night guy did his job right. This new problem took some time to show itself. I just fixed the new problem.
Good one Ivan!
Gave the guy his moneys worth on the diagnosis. Well done
I still have my 98 blazer, just hit 290k now and my abs quit working. It's still on all the time. It don't bother me none lmfao!! Nice fix Ivan!! Great job
Yes, as you stated: That good engine/transmission combo was last made in 2016! That is almost antique by now's standards. Every time a manufacturer makes a great running reliable combo, they change it for something horrible, a sin those Ecoboost coolant leaker engine blocks.
My 2013 Ford Fusion Titanium Hybrid with 103,000 just lit up my dash. The scan was the right front wheel speed sensor. I replaced it with a factory sensor for thirty bucks. That wasn't the issue. It turned out to be the tone ring on the hub. I live in New Hampshire, so I'll blame it on winter.
As you said in the salt belt areas electronic parts /sensors outside the vehicle are prone to earlier than would be expected failure.The owner & viewers should take note of thid on all vehicles to replace them when there is work done on /around them (preventive maintance.)Cheers Ivan it was a good learning video.
4K new subs in about a month. Get ready for the payoff for all of your hard work. Thanks Ivan!
Great video Ivan as always. Good old salt it is a killer here in the rust belt.
Awesome video Ivan!!! God Bless your family ❤
Well it’s sure is nice to see the proper diagnostic tooling used. A sensible direction can be taken to pin point from there.
I really like all the info you can get.
I worked many years with CAT with programs that are written by non mechanics and at times can be misleading
I always found it difficult to use electronic wiring diagrams over paper …. Ya I’m old lol and retired now
I was waiting for Bonus Footage of you cutting open the wiring and finding the bad spot.😀
The ABS wheel speed sensor is a common issue with the Ford Fusion. I have a 2013 and a 2018 both had the same problem and it only seems to be with the front ones. You can get them for $20 each on rock auto and it’s an easy job to replace them. You take it to any shop they’re going to charge you $300 minimum to replace one ☠️
Bonus upload - I have been 100% happy since watching another fix!
230K on the clock and needed a current fix due to 'whatever'.
Nice to hear Ivan giving this 2016 Ford Fusion model the 'thumbs up'. Mileage says a lot.
Well Ivan it was an easy fix after much testing. Great job and went right to the issue
I like how you think about it logically too!! Great job!
Merci pour tes vidéos Ivan 👍
3:39 - 158.46mph translates to 255km/h, and that tells me right away that the speed sensor data is an 8 bit data signal. If I'm right 255 is the value for "Not Available" for that data on the CAN bus. 254 is "Error". The value will of course be different for signals with different number of bits in the CAN frame.
However sometimes the "Not Available" and "Error" state is handled the same since there's no point in having different handling of it in the system.
Sniffing the CAN bus can sometimes be useful if there aren't any PIDs for certain data that appears on the CAN bus and you have sporadic errors that are hard to trace.
Also in some cases the system might just set an "Error" state, but the CAN signal can have extra bits indicating what kind of error it is, e.g. short to ground or short to battery.
Thank you Ivan! Great job as always. That reputation is starting to follow you!
My first hunch, even before the scan: wheel speed sense fail.
Sometimes the job makes you earn it / it makes you do it the hard way.
Simple fix great diag..customer is intelligent person...he got diag before spending on parts.thats the way it should be...cheers ivan
Terminal fretting was a huge problem with GM with multic 2 injector connectors and front ABS connectors on older AC variable reluctance sensors. The ABS sensor would be diagnosed as bad and a wheel bearing/sensor assemble would be smashed in. The act of unplugging and plugging in new one would fix problem for a few months. Then same issue. Tech claims bad bearing, shop warranties bearing, and the cycle continues when it is a bad pigtail. Have seen this many times.
Wish I could post a picture on here. I have a magnified terminal and it looks pretty nasty.
Wow, I’ll just let it go at that. Nice work Ivan! 👍👍🇺🇸😄
I like those Mondaoes it's a shame that ford have stopped making them especially the 2 litre diesel because it had great power and very efficient
Ivan, you are 100% correct. The customer wanted a diagnosis not guess & hope. Now he knows that it is repaired and can drive it with confidence and not have to worry about breaking down.
First time I hear you recommend a car!!! Wow!!
I have the same car.Very happy with it was bummed when ford went to the small engine turbo. Our 2.5L,11 Fusion is losing a battle to rust @150K
I had a Mondeo (uk) with over 400k before it got written off. There was still many more miles left in it.
16:09 Always have my fingers crossed hoping the bonus footage is good news.
Well done. That will keep the abs happy!
I have a 2016 escape and had to replace the both rear abs sensors. Got the same fault codes but the second one caused limp mode after starting and initial drive. It be like that until it set the light then it would drive normal. A quick floor it and the light would set.
That was crazy. But seen stuff like that before but for a the sensor for gas tank level.
I love Ford's. Repairing the 3V Tritons paid for my last house and the various eco boost engines are going to set me up for retirement. Keep those "better ideas" coming Ford.
Seriously, I own and drive a lot of brands because most every manufacturer makes a decent one once in a while and some real stinkers often.
I was never a Ford guy until I picked up a 96 Mercury Mystique stick shift for 500 bucks 6 years ago 😍
Your Channel has just been a basic inspiration for my Career... Keep it on Ivan. Lets fix the Christmas tree together?👍🏻:-
The ribbon cable inside the steering angle sensor fails and can cause those bizarre wheel speed sensor codes.
I've run into that as well, but since Ivan could physically touch at least 1 sensor and recreate the fault, this time the angle sensor issue must not have been related.
These are sensor circuit codes though
This model is plagued with that same issue. The correct action that worked for my fusion problem was to remove the speed sensor from the wheel hub and clean the built up metallic gunk from the inside well and push the sensor back in with ease
230000, runs well! My friend has the same one and I love that thing.
Fusion, mondeo, galaxy all have common problems with intermittent ABS faults, because of both front ABS sensors. They are known to go bad where the rubber slides into bracket. steering position fault is common on fords if there are other fault codes.
Yeah, Ford in its infinite wisdom quit making small efficient cars about the same time gas prices went up!
I think it’s funny that Honda fits have only gone up in value since they stopped making them too.
I'll never accuse Ford of making any good decisions since around the turn of the century.
I'd say it was a wise decision. Ford never made money on small cars, just made them to build brand loyalty. They weren't very good cars anyway, so I'm not sure they were successful in building brand loyalty. Probably for the best they got out of the small car market.
@@xanderlander8989 There is this thing called CAFE that small cars help with.
@@xanderlander8989 they've lost me. I was their biggest fan from the 80's-2004. I'll never own anything they produce because they are basically all junk. Most mechanics hate working on them. Simple maintenance is also a joke. Changing oil, adding fluids, headlights, etc on some models is just maddening. F series is what's keeping them barely under water. It's a sinking ship, no matter what they do.
I wouldn't be surprised if the wire to the sensor was pulled on while working on the brakes. Not sure why, but it's a possibility.
Nice work Ivan. I've run into that same issue myself. But both sensor wires were broken. I guess they just ignored it for a while.
@Sandmansa I'm wondering how the heck does a doubly insulated wire break????!??
@@fredsalter1915 I would surmise all the bending over time weaken the insulation to the point of minute cracks (probably no visable to the naked eye) allow moisture intrusion ?
@@fredsalter1915 The answer is not always consistent. But a vehicle with over 200K on the clock, there has been countless twisting, bending and pulling on those wires. Could be simple wear and tear? Not to mention all the road debris that got slung around inside that wheel well. Could be someone working on the car didn't exercise enough caution with those wires? Who knows?
That's a common problem when unexperienced mechanics not separating sensor harness from the brake hose during brake job. Then caliper slides down from the knuckle causing the wiring rapture inside the harness.
As the owner of a 2010 Ford Fusion, I am astonished that car still operates with that kind of mileage.
This Gen is a better made car than the earlier Gen.
I have a customer with similar mileage. Every 50K, brakes, leading and trailing ball joints, and tires.
@@HelicopterDad-xk5sx This makes a big difference. My 2010 is the 2.5L (thank goodness) and even better it's a 6spd manual SE base model. Not a lot to go wrong with it. I just turned 100K KM (60K miles) and no looking back. Only problem for me this is the time/mileage where lots of maintenance stuff is happening. I think my perceived disdain for this car is that I clumped it with the ecoboost models which are all problematic. 2.5L for the win.
@@ProjectFairmont My car is holding together well, but it does feel cheap and quality control was not first in their minds.
@@williamkelley7654 the 2nd Gen Fusion feels like a German car by comparison. Which it is. Chassis, interior engineered in Europe.
The miracle is the Fusion lasted this long!
Oh that’s funny
Of course. It's not a BMW. 😂😅😂😅
The other car is an 09 Ford focus with 755,000 miles on it
had to replace a starter a couple years ago valve cover gaskets a couple times. still has the original alternator the engine and trans (5 sp manual) have never been touched
it's starting to use oil, it will burn a quarter inch off of the stick from the full mark in an 8000 mile oil change interval !
Why?
@@sprint48219 755k miles is truly impressive!!
What, a fussy customer? I'm embarrassed for being a loyal viewer. But I can't help it, Ivan is a great man.
I agree Ivan is a good man not sure what you mean by fussy customer? Fussy because he wants his car fixed?🙃
? 🤔
@@johnlarkin549 no, the viewer that said he didn't like the channel anymore.
@@flightforensics4523 hey I got a response. Hehehe.
@@nickchannel5364 I’m lost me no understands
Brilliant.
Well done ivan :-D
That was a strange intermittent cable fault.
I bet you wont see that double trouble again... i hope not.
You jinxed him now🤣
I get it that a mechanic doesn't always want to come home and watch someone else do mechanic work.. I get it because as a long ago Top40 deejay I NEVER came home and wanted to listen to More Music... But your channel is different in that you present videos that aren't everyday tuneup stuff but, rather, your vids are always engaging MYSTERIES... Any everyday mechanic gains new knowledge... about equipment and about troubleshooting.
Your show is FREE ENTERTAINMENT AND FREE EDUCATION... And clearly my choice over most TV offerings...
BTW... do you know that a cell phone can be connected to a TV thru an HDMI cable?
Yeah, but most people have smart TVs nowadays with RUclips as an app built in.
Also Amazon fire stick, Roku, android streaming box, etc
Then, can link cellphone to the TV and can comment while watching the TV
Something not to complicated for once and you got to install new parts as well. Hopefully the ABS sensors last as long than the original ones.
I'm at 6:07... and turning left causes left front speed sensor to go bad! ¿¿ I'd suspect that the sensor's wiring gets stretched turning left causing connection to go bad ??
Not stretched, but some can get broken from the constant turning left to right over the years
For a moment i thought you were going to fix it without replacing any parts🤣
I fixed one of the two sensors so not too bad 😂
I thought the bonus footage was going to show you opening up the sensor wire to show the breakage, oh well.
As long as they have the 2.5 they’re great. Unfortunately if you get one with the horrible 1.6 ecoboost, you’ll be replacing engines regularly. I don’t know if the 2.0 ecoboost is immune or not, I’ve heard conflicting reports.
I don't trust them, but I know somebody with a very trusty 2.0 EcoBoost that has gone well past 200k. I drove a 1.5 EcoBoost at my driving school. Liked the car, but that powertrain was a miserable heap. I believe the Hybrid was much nicer.
@@benjamindoyle668 believe it or not the 2.5 NA engine is the same old Mazda MZR family that was used for years, just a bigger brother to the 2.3 MZR. I think the hybrids to this day still use the 2.5 MZR.
@@upload15613 Thats when Mazda & Ford had a partnership can not remember when they parted ways or the reason, neither company have a great reputation here (AUS).
As a matter a course my lr sport we replace the sensors whenever brakes are done .
Just did front struts and bearings on my 2013 escape, at 180k 2 days later the left sensor went bad...went ahead and replaced both
The Old Ford confusion
Nice job
If he wants that addressed he needs to provide an envelope and stamp.
I'll show myself to the door.
😂
They are called mondeo here in the UK. Shame they stopped production as they are a decent cars
Nice diag, Ivan! Initially I thought it might be cable flexure that wouldn't be caught with the car lifted, but that turned out to be only one side, the other was terminal fretting - what are the odds?
Due to the age, the customer was good at taking the recommendation to just swap out BOTH sensors
If he wants, just keep the cleaned sensor as a backup?
@@ricebike He could, but the new sensors will probably last enough (even in the rust belt), for him to forget where he stored it 🙂
Please make a video of which cars do you like.
I as an Avid follower think it is time for Ivan to make a list of His recommend Car’s and truck for any and all that are not interested in investing in the Over Priced New Junk they sell nowadays. 🤘🏼🤘🏼🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Over last weekend I replaced my Fuel Pump on my gmc envoy . Right afterwards I got a misfire and flashing check engine light . I was puzzled 😢 . Turned out the Ignition coil on cly 1 went bad . Was scratching may head how I got a misfire from replacing Fuel Pump
It was not related, just bad timing that it happened right after the fuel pump.
👍👍👍
My 2012 fusion 2.5 has 233000 and runs perfect and uses no oil between changes at 5000 miles full synthetic of course.
Upper New York??? Eric must have busy.
Or maybe customer lives closer to Ivan's shop... Either way, both will get the job done correctly without the parts cannons
Eric says "no" to out of town RUclips fans lol
I wonder if people call Ivan and ask for a Diagnosis. Then complain about costing too much and or have it diagnosised and not paying him for the diagnosis. I had a customer try that. Before the job started. I just told the person. DIAGNOSIS cost money and is the tools I use. Cash up front for my labor. Parts I don't buy. Nor is the labour for fixing the vehicle. Each code diagnostics takes time IF you want to have them repaired.
They always pay. If I don't trust them then they pay up front 😅
What if the sensors where replaced with new ones and it does the same thing??
There is tsb for Ford fusion pin hole for abs wiring south main auto has video please watch it.
Was it the inner ABS sensor or the outer ABS sensor that would need to be replaced?
I share your aversion to the parts cannon, BUT if this had been my car, I would've risked the $100 and 30 minutes of my time before driving 6 hours one way for a diagnosis.
Quick question, 03 toyota matrix with high idle when hot
Vacuum leak maybe?
Check fuel trims
Ivan have u had any dealings with car repair insurance companies like CAR SHIELD?
Dude that did the brake job hung the calipers from the sensor wire loop
How do you take screenshots? My thinktool doesn’t have the camera when graphing.
What scanner are you using please
Does ABS. Stand for all brakes squeal?
That’s the thing, the diagnosis, you need to know what it is/was…. nothing worse than having a poke about and the light goes out, Is it coming back again ? Most do,but the ones that don’t, well you have no idea what it was and if the light comes back again you have no idea if it is the same problem !
Exactly right.
We have a 2011 thats is good.
220 thousand miles on a ford sensor? Ford is slipping damn bean counters 😂
so the steering wheel code was caused by the wheel speed sensor??
Hmm with all these control modules communicating with each other, just have clear the system (after taking the snap shot of the original codes)
And verify the fix afterwards
Yes, a bad wheel speed sensor can cause that steering angle sensor fault. Same thing happened with my friend's 2017 Ford F350. Had a RR speed sensor code along with the steering angle sensor fault and an ABS module fault code. I determined that the speed sensor was the problem and after replacement, the other two codes went away too. That was last year and those codes have never come back.
Speaking of Fords, what’s going on with your Mercury Mystique? Yeah I’ve been watching your channel that long.
I would like to know. Any Ford with a 2.0 Zetec engine. I am interested in. Especially with higher mileage. The 2.0 Zetec is a great engine that can run forever. I have a 2003 Focus with the same engine.
Still running butter smooth at 300k miles! Getting a bit rusty on the rocker panels though 😭
Please do an update video on the old girl, she deserves some screen time.@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics
Definitely nice cars IF they have the 2.5. All the ecoboost motors are JUNK
The 2006 to 2009 with 2.3 and the 2010 to 12 as well as the 2014 to 2016 were the good ones.
if you forward 30% thru the video from the beginning, you will end up at some point with the value inflection that has value.
No steering angle relearn to cover your butt?
Parts cannon or drive 6 hours for a diag?
Wow, the distrust of local shops made this customer go all the way to Ivan 😢
Since he obviously uses the car as Uber or Lyft, just wants the correct repair done the first time.
But, yeah Google search should have pointed out the sensors from the get go... This problem is similar to other makes/models on the rust belt.
Some models, the abs sensors are also built in the wheel hub bearing assembly 😢
So glad this was an easy fix
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I'm willing to bet the wires were fatigued, and if the technician doing the brake job had the suspension fully extended and turned the wheel lock to lock as we're prone to do to get access to caliper bolts and whatnot, it stressed the wires juuust enough outside their normal range of travel that the fault developed. :)
So ... I'm think this was sabotage. I mean why could the other shop not find this ?
Speed sensor registered faster than the car can go at 158 mph
Last night my girlfriend said, "don't be fussy, eat my....."