An emergency brake is a hand lever you can use to slow the car down when your hydraulic brakes fail. Even the foot control parking brake is not an emergency brake unless you tie the release back. I have had to do it and it sucks. Why they make just parking brakes now is beyond me. If you live where it freezes you can't use them anyway or they can freeze up. Plus you can't do power slides. he he
Now we just want to hear the explanation from the shop to their customer on why the module had to be replaced twice and it needed a new parking brake motor. This is why I want to recreate the fault before replacing a part.
Great diag my friend, this proves how important is to check wiring integrity. But at the end of the day, what do most costumers cry or complain more than anything? Yes, when we need more diag time! Well do not cry when you spent thousands on something we could have repair with a wire terminal and some diag time!!
Great diag..sir its always understanding circuit lay out to find the issue..people love to throw parts canon 😀..i had a ford ranger 2016 abs issue right rear wheel erratic reading imagine its been changed abs module wheel bearing and sensor and it was just case of corroded wire near frame line..thx for the great info sir
Nice, a good refresher on a V R and I basic ohms law and voltage drops. Love the fact you use test bulbs makes it so easy to understand what is happening. Thanks as always!
one of the seems odd i have problem unpinning and usually if i get them out can tighten but getting out is a real problem i have bought several kits would for me be a great video on the best ways to unpin different connectors and tightnening
@@autodiagyt not sure why I have so much trouble have ruined a couple trying to get out. Bought a master pin out tool kit looks so simple on RUclips to give me so much trouble thanks
Great video, my car did this to me yesterday. Same exact scenario actually, same side and all lol. Thank you for helping pinpoint the issue with this. Local dealership didn't have one in stock so I gotta wait for it to come in. In the meantime I cut out the bad section and soldered in a new piece as temporary fix to at least get the car to quit yelling at me. I couldn't take the nonstop dinging because it thought the brake was engaged hahaha. Surprisingly it worked and I was even able to clear the codes without a scanner by cycling the parking brake. It automatically recalibrated when engaged and cleared the codes
Next time you are slow maybe a scope class. Such as how to hook up to test different components and things like time bases and whatnot. I have been watching your videos for about a year but maybe like a Playlist of the most common setups
I dont know if you remember but a few weeks back i asked if you every came across a cam shaft reluctor wheel becoming magnetized. It ended up being the reluctor wheel. Thats the first time I've seen that actually happen. The tech took a high power magnet and hit the reluctor wheel by accident. By him hitting it part of the wheel was magnetized. What a great find.
i like the way i calibrate the ones on my 1994 ram 2500 4wd just takes 1/2" wrench no scanner or wires to worry about but the new way is somehow better yep
Love to see this. I made myself one of those dual filament test lights after watching some of your previous videos. Previously only had pre-fab test lights and a 5 amp headlight . Nice to have various loads to try to match the circuit
I'm guessing there were two problems in this car. The first was a bad motor or bad module, but while the techs were doing testing they spread the terminals of the connector, or maybe misaligned the connector so the pin was bent. Replacing the good component didn't fix the new secondary problem. Then they gave up in frustration. It's more evidence to support careful step wise diagnostics, and going back to retest when things aren't as they seem.
Possibly I’m not sure. I can’t think why they would test there. It’s common for these motors to fail and this is the first time I’ve had to go further then testing at the plug in the wheel well.
oh yes sir ,fords seem to make there terminals out of cheese if i had a pound for every time i have seen a spread pin i would be able to retire 🤣🤣🤣 due diligence is a must for sure just because it don’t work don’t mean its a bad part and like you have said many times just because your metre says voltage it don’t mean it will carry current. excellent job my friend. and it don’t take long to run that type of test to confirm a good or bad circuit 👍
Some customers live on very bumpy roads, and the whole car experiences some rather ridiculous vibration modes. But, you may ask, if the connector is shaken how come all the pins are not loose? It is because the vibration effects the most rigid (transmitted to) structure, which are the large heavy gauge wires. This is the risk of using a mixed pin size connector (connectors having both small and large gauge pin connections). The larger gauge wires are basically acting as the vibration strain relief for the entire mass of the connector. My guess is if there was dedicated 2 pin power connector to the motor and another connector for everything else, that (unless water intrusion was also a problem) the system would not have failed. If we focus on the repair, it is clear after fixing the pin tension problem and cleaning the pins, that we must strain relief the kick panel connectors beyond what the factory provided with the Christmas trees. You must find a way to hold the connectors and harness tight to the vehicle and tie wrap the wires together as close as possible to the connector. Make all the wires move as one. We should also look for signs of water intrusion into the kick panel area. Water is getting to the harness and running down the wire into the connector. If you don't have time then reposition the harnesses so the water cannot wick down into the connector pins due to gravity. The video is rather interesting in that the previous shop (not sure what to call it) could not fix this simple problem. The codes indicated what was wrong and a simple voltage test proved on open or high resistance connection to the motor. Yet they replaced the motor and two ABS modules, just incredibly brain dead.
Your diagnostic skills are quite impressive. Video presentation is also first rate. How does Topdon/Launch work so well for so little money? Snap-On, Matco etc are done, easily eaten by the Chinese.
Jake, AWESOME approach and thought process are you trained with hybrid or electric cars if yes hope will see those cars in ur bay soon and learn new things as always thanks for sharing.
DEOXIT, never heard of the stuff, gonna get me some. I've been using a lot of Stablant-22 lately, especially on connector pins that are half the width of a GAH (gnats ass hair ) That is a unit of measure where I'm from 🤪 Some of these EPB systems need to see a brake fluid pressure reference value, pump the pedal KOEO, cycle the key ON/OFF, then try the EPB recalibration function. Looks like you got some work, hope the phone keeps ringing!
Forgot, on some EPS issues, they'll generate random DTCs, had one recently the coded for a WSS, live data showed a wheel speed of 100-mph, with the car sittin' still. Repaired the EPS motor circuit issue, cleared the DTC and then the recalibration went smoothly. These newer cars and their Smarty functions are gettin' dumber by the day.
Hey awesome video. I'm having a similar problem. However; I get long engage process ( that doesn't engage) on the right. The left has a short wind and engaging fine. I'm not sure what's up? I'll have to try this tomorrow. I feel like it's the actual actuator but I'm not sure at this point. Thoughts? - NG POG- from VA.
It’s a separate line on the invoice. The diag tells me where the problem is, the fix is a separate charge because it could be a simple terminal retention, all the way to connector replacement. Find the issue then discuss options to fix it.
do you see any advantage to so called improvements like from a rod to open and lock doors to electric, like window switch used to reverse politarity for up and down to a module to do it, electric parking brake instead of a cable that lasted life of vehicle at least in the south, electric t-body vs cable operated. new vehicle cannnot run without a radio , some f-150 wont shut off have to unplug ABS module to get to shut off why would ABS have anything to do with the running of the engine. why would the radio have anything to do with brakes or engine running or speedometer working radios were designed to play music thats all they need to do
I have been an automotive locksmith since the 80's. I have seen a lot less problems with the cables for locks and latches vs the old rods and clips. It's the electronics that mostly fail. The old metal clips would rust out even in Florida and the plastic rod clips would get brittle and break. Once in a while you see a stretched cable but that's pretty rare. The newer cars are also actually easier to open than the old ones but that probably has more to do with the evolution of lockout tools. Some of the older cars we rarely see give my guys some trouble. As far as newer vehicles some Ford trucks are the biggest PITA to open. Old H1 Hummer is a PITA, 08-13 Honda's the flipper pushes in instead of out, but overall it's the Ford trucks and large Transit van. ughhhh
2019 Fusion Hybrid. Got in the car tonight and had engine light on, yellow wrench, parking braked stuck in ON, and the Downhill braking green light is stuck on. When I tried to drive I got a RED RECTANGLE for low oil pressure and engine shuts OFF. Got back in driveway on electric power. I believe while cleaning interior I got MOISTURE in under where the button for the downhill braking switch is (near shifter) and the brake button is located in same place. Was hopeful when he said he saw MOISTURE (water) in the switch that this is all that is causing this. How it would effect the oil pressure warning, only Ford can answer. 6 months ago I had about 8 different warning lights on my dash and the only thing they fixed was both ABS in the front of the car. So I know it's possible to have OTHER WARNING LIGHTs come on unrelated to the problem. There is a button for ECO (Economy) mode next to downhill button and that completely stopped working in off position (thankfully) after I spilled a drink on it about 3 years ago. No loss there since I am averaging 50mpg. Anyone had similar problems?
@@autodiagyt I know but I will have to get towed to my mechanic who is almost 15 miles away. I am covered for this under insurance but just want to try to find out if I can fix without all this. I saw one video that mentioned the low pressure (oil is full) oil could be caused by a low battery and indeed I have a red battery warning light on. Car sat for 3 days not using it before this happened so it's a real possibility.
Great video. Excellent troubleshooting techniques! Can I impose on you to comment on my situation? 2014 Fusion Energi with no ABS DTC codes. At startup get Pkg Brk Malfunction, Service Now error. Again parking brakes are both engaging and disengaging. I have also run the parking brake service routine multiple times. No DTCs. Wondering if I have flakey ABS module that coughs at startup self test. Unfortunately with my TopDon Pro I cannot do an ABS self test nor can I figure out how to clear stored configuration values for EPB. Any information is most welcome. Thanks.
@@autodiagyt Thanks for the replies. I'm stuck too. Manual say at this point replace ABS module. Seems like more work and $$ than I care to invest. I can just keep hitting "ok" at each engine startup. Otherwise ABS pulses, parking brakes work as do wheel speed sensors. Annoying, but probably to be expected for 135k miles. Again, thanks.
hello sir , ask a question ? where did you purchase those back probes? and do you like and have trouble piecing the wire with them. I ask because I bought some and I have trouble piecing
In recent previous video(s) you mentioned that oscilloscope's (PicoScope) "Reference" virtual channels can be used to multiply number of channels by adding saved waveforms (by combining waveform files into one display, using "Reference channels" function" of PicoScope). But how do you align two signals HORIZONTALLY if say, idle RPM is about 600 RPM on one scan of crank sensor's waveform, and idle RPM is about 650 RPM during second scan of crank signal? First will appear a little "stretched" horizontally: how do I "shrink" it horizontally to align this crank signal scan with second crank signal scan? (Note: vertical "stretch", aka "scaling" is easily can be found on PicoScope, but I cannot find horizontal scaling function. I only see function that can MOVE signal horizontally, called "delay". But I need to "stretch" the signal or "shrink" it along x-axis, horizontally). Without this, "Reference" function is useless.
You will never get. Them perfectly scaled horizontally but if you get a good stable idle I just let it run and get a lot of pages and then scroll through the pages and find one that best lines up with my reference. This method is best for comparing 1 full cylinder cycle like 1 compression stroke to the next. You can usually get 1 cycle lined up pretty well with the others as you seen on that video I got 4 in cylinder waveforms that almost perfectly match each other and it’s because I was using short time base to get what I needed all in 1 page and nothing else with a good reliable trigger. Keep in mind you can also get measurements in degrees with pico when you setup the phase rulers.
if it was a used car lot that would explain it, if it was a shop then someone is not trained. scanner danner is trying to address these issues as well. like this was just basic testing , but i see this alot and dont know how this is gona change. im my area the techs dont wont to gather and learn from each other. i dont know why . i have asked several guys about getting together, but no response, it appears we are our on enemy. if i was close to you i would love to hang out once a month just to help each other. have you ever tried to get any techs together in your area for collaboration . let me know if you have or not . curious. i sometimes wonder that they think they will give away their secrets they dont wont someone else to know. i love giving information to people ,their are plenty of cars with complicated problems for us all
I don’t discuss dollar amounts because prices change based on one’s needs, ability, and location. This vehicle got my standard diagnostics charge and a wire terminal repair charge.
4:53, is this just a basic scan tool? Like the one I can use at an auto zone or other auto parts stores? And when you change tools and start talking about OEMS. What is that tool? I thought this would be easy for my Landord to help me with, since he's an electrician. But he's not confident that he can do this. And thinking that I should pay someone to do this. I'm in a tiny town 48 miles in mountains away from the city. Parking brake malfunction light is getting worse and not sure if I should even continue to drive it until this is resolved. I can borrow the neighbor's scan tool. Landlord has electrical circuit tester. Idk name of it. He's not here atm. Can this be done by amateurs, or do you agree with my landlord that I should pay a mechanic? Can I drive down the mountains when it's going off every few minutes now? Used to be only going up n down steep slopes. Only started 2 weeks ago. I owned this car 2 years. 156k. 1.5 2015 ecoboost
What you can buy at most parts stores is a "code reader" I'm using a professional level scan tool with bi-directional control functions. I have a couple Budget diy friendly scantools on my Amazon store. Just go to my page description and the link is there.
@autodiagyt but you switched tools after doing the light bulb tests. Doing some readings. What was that? Also scan tool? Or? So you think anyone can do this fix?
Well idk on this old but I’ve seen plenty of brand new vehicles at the dealership with pin tension issues, so maybe just defective pins from the start?
its really sad that a pretty simple issue like this was misdiagnosed.its no wonder people dont trust shops.i think that every body wants a super quick diag and fix and alot of times itll bite you.
Emergency brakes should never have any wires or actuators between the driver and the wheels... ;)
Aint that the truth!!
An emergency brake is a hand lever you can use to slow the car down when your hydraulic brakes fail. Even the foot control parking brake is not an emergency brake unless you tie the release back. I have had to do it and it sucks. Why they make just parking brakes now is beyond me. If you live where it freezes you can't use them anyway or they can freeze up. Plus you can't do power slides. he he
Another great case study. Take care.
Now we just want to hear the explanation from the shop to their customer on why the module had to be replaced twice and it needed a new parking brake motor.
This is why I want to recreate the fault before replacing a part.
Then the explanation goes this way,.
We are Just pàrts Changers!
Very good diagnosis. It's hard to believe that all of those parts were thrown at it on what is a simple circuit.
Great job, Thanks for sharing! My favorite diags are with a test light and a diagram.
Great diag my friend, this proves how important is to check wiring integrity. But at the end of the day, what do most costumers cry or complain more than anything? Yes, when we need more diag time! Well do not cry when you spent thousands on something we could have repair with a wire terminal and some diag time!!
So glad you used the Deox-it. Regular contact cleaner is pretty much useless from my experience. Great video BTW.
Great step by step diag approach and explanation. Thank you Jake!
OMG. I paid for a new solenoid and new brake pads and in debt! I wish I found this before I spent so much. Thank you for posting this.
Great diag..sir its always understanding circuit lay out to find the issue..people love to throw parts canon 😀..i had a ford ranger 2016 abs issue right rear wheel erratic reading imagine its been changed abs module wheel bearing and sensor and it was just case of corroded wire near frame line..thx for the great info sir
Great find, my stacking banana plugs have now arrived so I’m making a set of those test bulbs for sure!
Parts cannon for a lose connection. Good job, Jake!
Your vid's are really easy to follow, great job. Keep up your good work.
Nice, a good refresher on a V R and I basic ohms law and voltage drops. Love the fact you use test bulbs makes it so easy to understand what is happening. Thanks as always!
Ahhhh vary well done~Nothing wrong with playing it forward~Big thanks 🚘
Big brain jake did it again
I really enjoy your videos. Looking forward to the next.
great video , good job Jake, looks pretty hot where you are 🤩
It’s cooling off now
one of the seems odd i have problem unpinning and usually if i get them out can tighten but getting out is a real problem i have bought several kits would for me be a great video on the best ways to unpin different connectors and tightnening
Yeah I might do that. I use 1 tool for 99% of all connectors lol
@@autodiagyt not sure why I have so much trouble have ruined a couple trying to get out. Bought a master pin out tool kit looks so simple on RUclips to give me so much trouble thanks
Superb job, Jake!
Great video, my car did this to me yesterday. Same exact scenario actually, same side and all lol. Thank you for helping pinpoint the issue with this. Local dealership didn't have one in stock so I gotta wait for it to come in. In the meantime I cut out the bad section and soldered in a new piece as temporary fix to at least get the car to quit yelling at me. I couldn't take the nonstop dinging because it thought the brake was engaged hahaha. Surprisingly it worked and I was even able to clear the codes without a scanner by cycling the parking brake. It automatically recalibrated when engaged and cleared the codes
great video thanks so much for taking the time to share hopefully can remember when i need it
Water or heat = terminal problems.
Good diag and fix.
Great fixed, no pàrts required!
Cool diag Jake thanks for sharing this one.
Next time you are slow maybe a scope class. Such as how to hook up to test different components and things like time bases and whatnot. I have been watching your videos for about a year but maybe like a Playlist of the most common setups
Oh and what looks good and what it looks like when it's bad
I dont know if you remember but a few weeks back i asked if you every came across a cam shaft reluctor wheel becoming magnetized. It ended up being the reluctor wheel. Thats the first time I've seen that actually happen. The tech took a high power magnet and hit the reluctor wheel by accident. By him hitting it part of the wheel was magnetized. What a great find.
That’s cool!
i like the way i calibrate the ones on my 1994 ram 2500 4wd just takes 1/2" wrench no scanner or wires to worry about but the new way is somehow better yep
Love to see this. I made myself one of those dual filament test lights after watching some of your previous videos.
Previously only had pre-fab test lights and a 5 amp headlight . Nice to have various loads to try to match the circuit
It comes in handy
a parking brake cable and lever has worked for over 100 years and some how we need a motorized one!
Thanx Jake..another light bulb moment..
You rock~!
I'm guessing there were two problems in this car. The first was a bad motor or bad module, but while the techs were doing testing they spread the terminals of the connector, or maybe misaligned the connector so the pin was bent. Replacing the good component didn't fix the new secondary problem. Then they gave up in frustration. It's more evidence to support careful step wise diagnostics, and going back to retest when things aren't as they seem.
Possibly I’m not sure. I can’t think why they would test there. It’s common for these motors to fail and this is the first time I’ve had to go further then testing at the plug in the wheel well.
nice fix jake.
Thanks for sharing Jake. Once again, nice use of your test lights.
Thank you for your time ❤❤❤❤
Good video with good diagnostic and troubleshooting 👍
Although this is job security for you and I enjoy watching. Whatever shop doesn't have a tech that can figure this out maybe needs to re-evaluate.
oh yes sir ,fords seem to make there terminals out of cheese if i had a pound for every time i have seen a spread pin i would be able to retire 🤣🤣🤣 due diligence is a must for sure just because it don’t work don’t mean its a bad part and like you have said many times just because your metre says voltage it don’t mean it will carry current. excellent job my friend. and it don’t take long to run that type of test to confirm a good or bad circuit 👍
Another good one Jake, thanks for sharing. First class.
A great NPR fix. Nice find!
Grasias
Some customers live on very bumpy roads, and the whole car experiences some rather ridiculous vibration modes. But, you may ask, if the connector is shaken how come all the pins are not loose? It is because the vibration effects the most rigid (transmitted to) structure, which are the large heavy gauge wires. This is the risk of using a mixed pin size connector (connectors having both small and large gauge pin connections). The larger gauge wires are basically acting as the vibration strain relief for the entire mass of the connector. My guess is if there was dedicated 2 pin power connector to the motor and another connector for everything else, that (unless water intrusion was also a problem) the system would not have failed. If we focus on the repair, it is clear after fixing the pin tension problem and cleaning the pins, that we must strain relief the kick panel connectors beyond what the factory provided with the Christmas trees. You must find a way to hold the connectors and harness tight to the vehicle and tie wrap the wires together as close as possible to the connector. Make all the wires move as one.
We should also look for signs of water intrusion into the kick panel area. Water is getting to the harness and running down the wire into the connector. If you don't have time then reposition the harnesses so the water cannot wick down into the connector pins due to gravity.
The video is rather interesting in that the previous shop (not sure what to call it) could not fix this simple problem. The codes indicated what was wrong and a simple voltage test proved on open or high resistance connection to the motor. Yet they replaced the motor and two ABS modules, just incredibly brain dead.
Good job 👍
Nice work! I'd expect an outside connector, not an inside one, wow. You barely got your hands dirty.
That is really awesome! Great job. I hope you make videos about diagnosing issues with hybrid cars.
I would love to but we’re don’t have them around here lol
@@autodiagyt thank you very much awesome man
Excellent diag
Great diag Jake. As always.
Your diagnostic skills are quite impressive. Video presentation is also first rate. How does Topdon/Launch work so well for so little money? Snap-On, Matco etc are done, easily eaten by the Chinese.
Lol matco uses the same launch software.
So I have a 2014 SE and mine just came on and I’m on yt to try and figure out why it came on when I’ve barely had it for a year
NIce! Using test bulbs makes it easier to understand. Did you make your own test bulbs with banana plugs?
Yes I did
Jake, AWESOME approach and thought process are you trained with hybrid or electric cars if yes hope will see those cars in ur bay soon and learn new things as always thanks for sharing.
DEOXIT, never heard of the stuff, gonna get me some. I've been using a lot of Stablant-22 lately, especially on connector pins that are half the width of a GAH (gnats ass hair ) That is a unit of measure where I'm from 🤪
Some of these EPB systems need to see a brake fluid pressure reference value, pump the pedal KOEO, cycle the key ON/OFF, then try the EPB recalibration function.
Looks like you got some work, hope the phone keeps ringing!
Forgot, on some EPS issues, they'll generate random DTCs, had one recently the coded for a WSS, live data showed a wheel speed of 100-mph, with the car sittin' still. Repaired the EPS motor circuit issue, cleared the DTC and then the recalibration went smoothly.
These newer cars and their Smarty functions are gettin' dumber by the day.
Great job Bob :)
Hey awesome video. I'm having a similar problem. However; I get long engage process ( that doesn't engage) on the right. The left has a short wind and engaging fine. I'm not sure what's up? I'll have to try this tomorrow. I feel like it's the actual actuator but I'm not sure at this point. Thoughts?
- NG POG- from VA.
Good stuff man! Question, do you charge separate for the connector repair or just roll it into the diag fee?
It’s a separate line on the invoice. The diag tells me where the problem is, the fix is a separate charge because it could be a simple terminal retention, all the way to connector replacement. Find the issue then discuss options to fix it.
do you see any advantage to so called improvements like from a rod to open and lock doors to electric, like window switch used to reverse politarity for up and down to a module to do it, electric parking brake instead of a cable that lasted life of vehicle at least in the south, electric t-body vs cable operated. new vehicle cannnot run without a radio , some f-150 wont shut off have to unplug ABS module to get to shut off why would ABS have anything to do with the running of the engine. why would the radio have anything to do with brakes or engine running or speedometer working radios were designed to play music thats all they need to do
I have been an automotive locksmith since the 80's. I have seen a lot less problems with the cables for locks and latches vs the old rods and clips. It's the electronics that mostly fail. The old metal clips would rust out even in Florida and the plastic rod clips would get brittle and break. Once in a while you see a stretched cable but that's pretty rare. The newer cars are also actually easier to open than the old ones but that probably has more to do with the evolution of lockout tools. Some of the older cars we rarely see give my guys some trouble. As far as newer vehicles some Ford trucks are the biggest PITA to open. Old H1 Hummer is a PITA, 08-13 Honda's the flipper pushes in instead of out, but overall it's the Ford trucks and large Transit van. ughhhh
2019 Fusion Hybrid. Got in the car tonight and had engine light on, yellow wrench, parking braked stuck in ON, and the Downhill braking green light is stuck on. When I tried to drive I got a RED RECTANGLE for low oil pressure and engine shuts OFF. Got back in driveway on electric power. I believe while cleaning interior I got MOISTURE in under where the button for the downhill braking switch is (near shifter) and the brake button is located in same place. Was hopeful when he said he saw MOISTURE (water) in the switch that this is all that is causing this. How it would effect the oil pressure warning, only Ford can answer. 6 months ago I had about 8 different warning lights on my dash and the only thing they fixed was both ABS in the front of the car. So I know it's possible to have OTHER WARNING LIGHTs come on unrelated to the problem. There is a button for ECO (Economy) mode next to downhill button and that completely stopped working in off position (thankfully) after I spilled a drink on it about 3 years ago. No loss there since I am averaging 50mpg. Anyone had similar problems?
You need to get a full vehicle code scan
@@autodiagyt I know but I will have to get towed to my mechanic who is almost 15 miles away. I am covered for this under insurance but just want to try to find out if I can fix without all this. I saw one video that mentioned the low pressure (oil is full) oil could be caused by a low battery and indeed I have a red battery warning light on. Car sat for 3 days not using it before this happened so it's a real possibility.
Problem love by genius
Hey jake what is that tool or etc you put by the back wheel so you could hear that noise . That is cool you can hear all types of noise
It’s just my microphone I record videos with.
Great video. Excellent troubleshooting techniques! Can I impose on you to comment on my situation? 2014 Fusion Energi with no ABS DTC codes. At startup get Pkg Brk Malfunction, Service Now error. Again parking brakes are both engaging and disengaging. I have also run the parking brake service routine multiple times. No DTCs. Wondering if I have flakey ABS module that coughs at startup self test. Unfortunately with my TopDon Pro I cannot do an ABS self test nor can I figure out how to clear stored configuration values for EPB. Any information is most welcome. Thanks.
I would think there has to but a code in some module causing the message.
@@autodiagyt No codes showing up. Used multiple scanner brands, Topdon, Autel, Snapon Zeus. Nada. All green.
Not just ABS. No codes in ANY module.
@@sgcole111 that’s very strange I’m not sure how to help you with just seeing it for myself.
@@autodiagyt Thanks for the replies. I'm stuck too. Manual say at this point replace ABS module. Seems like more work and $$ than I care to invest. I can just keep hitting "ok" at each engine startup. Otherwise ABS pulses, parking brakes work as do wheel speed sensors. Annoying, but probably to be expected for 135k miles. Again, thanks.
How did you make those test lights with the back probes those are handy i can never get mine to stay together good when testing
Soldered on stackable banana jacks.
Where can one get some.of those connector ends on your diy 2A test light? Appreciate ya. 🤙
I have them on my amazon store. The link is on my RUclips page and in the description of most of my videos.
@autodiagyt thank you
hello sir , ask a question ? where did you purchase those back probes? and do you like and have trouble piecing the wire with them. I ask because I bought some and I have trouble piecing
Aeswave.com
So if I get a motor from the junkyard I still have to program it??
It needs calibrated yes. It needs to learn it's position.
In recent previous video(s) you mentioned that oscilloscope's (PicoScope) "Reference" virtual channels can be used to multiply number of channels by adding saved waveforms (by combining waveform files into one display, using "Reference channels" function" of PicoScope). But how do you align two signals HORIZONTALLY if say, idle RPM is about 600 RPM on one scan of crank sensor's waveform, and idle RPM is about 650 RPM during second scan of crank signal? First will appear a little "stretched" horizontally: how do I "shrink" it horizontally to align this crank signal scan with second crank signal scan? (Note: vertical "stretch", aka "scaling" is easily can be found on PicoScope, but I cannot find horizontal scaling function. I only see function that can MOVE signal horizontally, called "delay". But I need to "stretch" the signal or "shrink" it along x-axis, horizontally). Without this, "Reference" function is useless.
You will never get. Them perfectly scaled horizontally but if you get a good stable idle I just let it run and get a lot of pages and then scroll through the pages and find one that best lines up with my reference. This method is best for comparing 1 full cylinder cycle like 1 compression stroke to the next. You can usually get 1 cycle lined up pretty well with the others as you seen on that video I got 4 in cylinder waveforms that almost perfectly match each other and it’s because I was using short time base to get what I needed all in 1 page and nothing else with a good reliable trigger. Keep in mind you can also get measurements in degrees with pico when you setup the phase rulers.
if it was a used car lot that would explain it, if it was a shop then someone is not trained. scanner danner is trying to address these issues as well. like this was just basic testing , but i see this alot and dont know how this is gona change. im my area the techs dont wont to gather and learn from each other. i dont know why . i have asked several guys about getting together, but no response, it appears we are our on enemy. if i was close to you i would love to hang out once a month just to help each other. have you ever tried to get any techs together in your area for collaboration . let me know if you have or not . curious. i sometimes wonder that they think they will give away their secrets they dont wont someone else to know. i love giving information to people ,their are plenty of cars with complicated problems for us all
I really want to get some test light bulbs like the ones you have. Are those custom-made or did you buy them? Please lmk thanks
I made them the banana jack ends are on my Amazon store and the bulb socket is just from a parts store.
What are the test leads brand name you use for your homemade test light
The leads I have came with the aeswave.com utest terminal kit. I put a set of just leads on my Amazon store linked in the description.
Awesome
Where can I get that test light mate? great video!
Parts store
Good
Where will these bulbs be found?
Parts stores. 3157 bulb and socket
@@autodiagyt thanks
Excellent, by the way, how much do you charge for a job like that?
I don’t discuss dollar amounts because prices change based on one’s needs, ability, and location. This vehicle got my standard diagnostics charge and a wire terminal repair charge.
@@autodiagyt Perfect and thanks for sharing a very good video.
What if that light just stays on. ?
I'm not sure what you mean.
probably needed codes cleared before it can calibrate its self
If you're slow I'm sure that you're viewers including myself would like to know how you got stated and maybe a tutorial on multi meters
Here🎉
Shudda went n gone to the Electron Doctor first 😃😃👍👍
sorry that was a piss poor attempt at a southern accent 🤣🤣
❤❤❤
4:53, is this just a basic scan tool? Like the one I can use at an auto zone or other auto parts stores? And when you change tools and start talking about OEMS. What is that tool? I thought this would be easy for my Landord to help me with, since he's an electrician. But he's not confident that he can do this. And thinking that I should pay someone to do this. I'm in a tiny town 48 miles in mountains away from the city. Parking brake malfunction light is getting worse and not sure if I should even continue to drive it until this is resolved. I can borrow the neighbor's scan tool. Landlord has electrical circuit tester. Idk name of it. He's not here atm. Can this be done by amateurs, or do you agree with my landlord that I should pay a mechanic? Can I drive down the mountains when it's going off every few minutes now? Used to be only going up n down steep slopes. Only started 2 weeks ago. I owned this car 2 years. 156k. 1.5 2015 ecoboost
What you can buy at most parts stores is a "code reader" I'm using a professional level scan tool with bi-directional control functions. I have a couple Budget diy friendly scantools on my Amazon store. Just go to my page description and the link is there.
@autodiagyt but you switched tools after doing the light bulb tests. Doing some readings. What was that? Also scan tool? Or? So you think anyone can do this fix?
@@Alaskan_Two_Spirit_Wolf I only remember using my topdon phoenix smart scantool
@@autodiagyt ok. Do I need to pull off all 4 tires to check sensors? I only heard noise from the back left tire.
@autodiagyt 10:05 true RMS multimeter, ? Is this necessarily to get this problem fixed?
Just hard wire the wires around the connector then you dont have to fix connector?🤔
Or just fix the connector it’s not that hard 🤷🏻♂️ probably less time for me.
I’d love to see how you use a pico scope and how it helps you diagnose problems.
Dam good job Jake soak them good😂.sam
How does the freaking connector terminal get spread apart, all by itself 🤔
Well idk on this old but I’ve seen plenty of brand new vehicles at the dealership with pin tension issues, so maybe just defective pins from the start?
@@autodiagyt Ya... Unless the heat bends them, spreads them.
Another expensive lesson!
Ford needs to use wire nuts 😢.
its really sad that a pretty simple issue like this was misdiagnosed.its no wonder people dont trust shops.i think that every body wants a super quick diag and fix and alot of times itll bite you.
Good job 👍
Good