TUbliss long-term review after 7 years with the tubeless tire system!︱Cross Training Enduro
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- Опубликовано: 8 июл 2024
- www.crosstrainingenduro.com Our TUbliss long-term review!
0:18 What is TUbliss?
1:35 Long-term reliability
2:53 Will TUbliss suit you?
3:46 Further tips
Our ultra long-term review of the TUbliss system for enduro motorbikes. In our group, most of us have used TUbliss for five to seven years now. We will look at how TUbliss works. Its reliability. Whether TUbliss will suit you or not. And a few handy tips in this Tubliss review. What is TUbliss? It is a conversion that allows you to throw away your tubes. Underneath the red plastic is a high pressure tube. This is pumped up to 100psi and provides a very secure air-tight fit. Then you just pump your tyre to the desired pressure. The advantages of TUbliss? You can fix punctures in two minutes using a tubeless tyre repair kit. Also, you can continue riding with a flat tyre if needed, as per our previous TUbliss review. TUbliss strengthens the sidewall of the tyre enough to keep riding even with no air pressure. Obviously the handling is affected, and you don't want to hit rocks or tree roots at speed. But as an experiment I did an entire ride with zero air pressure in my TUbliss and had no issues. TUbliss acts like a huge rimlock too. There is no chance of the tyre slipping as long as the high pressure tube is correctly inflated. Combined with the firmer sidewalls, this allows plenty of traction by using low air pressures. In our group, most of use three to four psi in the tyre carcass which provides incredible traction. Faster riders usually have six psi or higher. How reliable is the TUbliss system? We have five riders in our group. They have used TUbliss for at least four years. In our experience it is great. Me? I have used it on two motorbikes over the past seven years with no issues. I used TUbliss on my Beta Xtrainer for five years and it still worked perfectly when I sold the motorbike. A friend used his for six years but eventually found his rear system was rusting. However, it turned out to be his fault as he had stripped the surface off the red plastic's steel cable and it eventually rusted through... after six years. Scott had no issues with TUbliss for his first three years... until he entered a hard enduro competition and hit sharp edged rocks so hard it punctured the red plastic and the high pressure tube burst. He knew this was a risk as he kept the air pressure low to get maximum traction. What about other riders? You can see occasional complaints from riders who say the system leaks air slowly. I suspect in most cases it is because the instructions aren't followed correctly. Will TUbliss suit you? We think the three main options are tubes, TUbliss or mousses. Old fashioned tubes? These work fine if you don't want to run low air pressures, you don't ride aggressively in rough terrain, and you don't mind fixing punctures if they occur. Mousses? These are great for serious race events. Or if you are a skilled aggressive rider slamming into logs, rocks and ruts at speed. Then you have TUbliss and teh average dirt muppet... the weekend warrior who wants great traction, adjustable air pressure, and easy puncture repairs. TUbliss can be a real game changer for the typical dirt rider. So will TUbliss suit you? We have a whole video dedicated to this. Here is the summary. Some long term tips? I would recommend keeping at least 3psi in the tyre. If you run lower than this, the internal part of the tyre can rub on the red plastic and leave marks.
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UPDATE: I just had an air leak develop from the valve stem on the high pressure tube (two year old tube). One of the other guys did too but it was a near new tube.
FURTHER TIPS! Follow the instructions! We suspect most reported problems are from ignoring instructions. Duh.
If you put a sealant like Tyre Slime inside the tyre carcass, it provides lubrication so you can run even lower air pressures if needed. Below 4psi, the inside of the tyre carcass can rub against the red plastic and gradually wear it away. But Tyre Slime provides lubrication and prevents this. Of course, it can also fix minor punctures too.
To make fitting much easier, you can use soapy water or silicon spray. Tyre Slime is messy but can perform the same function. We tend to do that as it minimises the chances of a poor seal with the knobbby against the rim if you have any internal scratches or deformities on the rim.
As with any normal tube... ensure that small knurled nut is not tightened to the rim as it can cause the stem to tear where it joins the tube if there is any movement. But also make sure the nut for the rim lock is tight enough. One of our riders had a failure when he didn't tighten this and eventually it moved just enough to rip the valve stem out of high pressure tube.
I was going to mention running Slime just for lubrication when running really low psi. Good job!
I have years of experience with the Tubliss and I always spray about 200-250 ml of soap water around both tyre beads and almost all gets into the main chamber…acts perfectly as lubricant and sealant and not as messy as slime…dont protect against small punctures though
I had tubliss for a year or 2. One issue is tyre choice. Bunch of people had issue as I found out with the same rear I was using, a Motoz Arena Hybrid. Seal on the bead wasn't great as maybe some tyres expected use is with tubes. I'd lose pressure on the low side after a couple days. Not really a big deal but it annoyed me. Looked for leaks with soapy water and couldn't find any until I left it half an hour and found super fine bubbles all around the bead on the rim. 150mls of Stans fixed it though it can get in and block up the valve sometimes.
BTW, make note that the Dunlop AT81 front tire does not work well with Tublis. That's right from the guys at Tublis when I called and said I couldn't get it to hold air very well.
@@davehowe_just_an_old_dirtbiker hummm? is that why i use stan's race sealant in my tubliss? 🤔
I've got a high pressure tube that is at least 6 years old and still works fine
The tubliss system makes tire changing super easy
Used them for about the same amount of time. Never put any of the stickers on, ride them on the road with "normal" air pressure, not had any problems. Knock on cranium(wood).
I used Tubliss for a couple of years and I really liked it. One additional benefit is that because you can use way lower pressure, in very loose terrain you use all the contact area of your tire and not only the grip is better, but also the tire lasts a lot longer, since you use all the knobies more evenly. I finally move to mousse though, because of two situations that have little to do with the product itself: 1) Many mechanics didn't want to change tires because they didn't know the product and didn't want to risk damaging it (... lazy bastards!...) and 2) The valve on the inner tube broke one day and I couldn't get a replacement in my country or literally anywhere that shipped internationally!! Mousses are a lot more common and easy to find.
I ride in the Desert Southwest of the USA and the TUbliss system is a game changer for those pesky cactus spikes and other things that would make having a Tube tire a pain. I just carry a plug kit and a super small air pump and all is good. It is good to hear of a long term review. I have been running it for about 2-3 years now on my Beta 390 and now my Xtrainer.
Great to hear, judging by comments most of us have no issues... and I suspect that those who do will mostly be due to incorrect fitting or not following the instructions in some way. There were occasional issues with the very first TUbliss a few years back but they changed the design rapidly AND provided good customer support to anyone affected.
Silver city N.M
Same here..
@@DAVIDTORRESANI I am in Las Cruces
Very nice! Lol
Graduated 06' Bulldogs. LCHS
Right on. I moved last year from Cruces. I was off Telshore.
Small world. Safe riding man. Ill be in L.C this week. Where are you riding? Towards Onate?
@@DAVIDTORRESANI I live south of the University Golf course. I may do some practice over south of A mountain.
I ran tubliss for about a year and had three issues. Once I got a nail all the way through the tire and into the tubliss tube that left me stranded. 2. Seemed about half the time I changed tires I would have a low pressure leak, resorted to using generous amounts of slime. 3. You can still get flats, although easy to repair, you need to carry a pumps and plugs.
I prefer mousses, you can modify them to get the desired feel “pressure”, you never need to check air pressure, and it is impossible to get flats, no need to carry any tire equipment.
In fairness to Tubliss, their equipment is quality made and probably the best choice for track racing where you need to change/run lower pressures for max traction.
EXCELLENT.
10/10.
EXCELLENT.
Straight to the POINT,
DIRECT, Short, EXCELLENT.
Thank You.
Cheers!
Llevo utilizando tubliss por los últimos 6 años.
En mi caso amo el sistema.
Sobre todo en la rueda trasera, donde acostumbro usar muy poca presión (alrededor de 5psi)
En todos estos años me paso de pinchar la parte interna roja solo 1 Vez con un clavo de 10cm (que hubiera destruido cualquier sistema incluido un musse)
El único “problema” es que tenes que prestar más cuidado al armado/desarmado.
El resto ventajas. 👍🏻
Saludos desde Argentina 🇦🇷
been running 2-3psi on Metzler tyres with tubliss for 5 years with zero issues because of the heavy sidewalls...did puncture with a Michelin tyre once as they are much lighter, so would probably advise running them around 5psi. Unbeatable traction, and easy to install once you follow the instructions to properly
I run em on my dual sported Beta 300 and they are great on or off road from 3-26psi. DOT is the lowest of low standards; it would be foolish to worry about not having a dot stamp on something inside of your tire.
I run TuBliss on the front tire of my Husky 701 Enduro, with the wheel static balanced for the rim lock.
On the rear I sealed the spokes and taped the rim and am running it "tubeless" as I don't lower the tire pressure on the back tire below 24 PSI. I like to lower the front when off road, and having the TuBliss is great for that.
My real concern about the tubliss system for the road is not the police but rather the insurance agent. If I have an accident even if it is not my fault I could conceivably held responsible because I was running non DOT approved tire system. You know how insurance is always looking for a way of not paying out no matter how insignificant the reason. This is the only reason I am stuck with using tubes on the dualsport.
Concern or worry?
Yes that sort of thing is always a concern nowadays, Rod
Ran it in the rear for years with very few issues, love the flexibility of different pressure with zero risk of slip + plus dead easy puncture repairs. Always keep a spare high pressure bladder in my kit bag, they’re not expensive
Great to hear, Dan
After seeing Jarvis riding in person with 8psi stock tire, I knew that it’s not about tire nor psi. It’s about people.
I have run TUbliss for about 3 years now. Thought it was the perfect setup for the style of riding I do from the moment I fitted them. Have had a few tyres that refused to stay inflated for more than a few days but they have always stayed inflated for the ride so not really a problem as you should be checking the pressures for each ride anyway.
Same here, I had a puncture that didn't really fix up that well but it would stay up for the ride and that was all I needed....
Super! Start to use tubliss.
Bought a bike that came with tubeless system installed on it. Never planned on buying it myself but now that I've ridden with it for a while I'd have no reservations buying them for other bikes. I really dig the traction on rooted climbs. That extra inch of squish in the tire on hard bumps also makes a difference to me.
Love the system! Used for 5 yrs. Checking pressures before a ride is important. Especially the high pressure! Thank you for the support & system validation ! KUDOS on all of your vids ! kenbob CDSR
Cheers, Kenbob!
My riding group has been running tubnliss for several years as well now. Similar experience to yours. We love it.
Great to hear!
I have tubliss in 2 bikes for about 5 years now and love the system... 07 husky wr250 and 2020 beta 390 rrs i have a plate on both bikes and ride them on the street between trails but would not worry about police.. worry about wearing my tires out on road lol! Wisconsin U.S.A. cheers
Still using heavy duty tubes. Primary reason is economy as I'm maintaining 3 bikes. One for myself and 2 for my son's. We make do with the higher pressures and use gummy tires. Works well enough for us.
I plan to do this when I get a new rear tire, my current tire is pretty fresh
I use heavy duty tubes - run 11 psi mud/ sand or 13 psi in rocks.
No punctures in years.
Not that I was fast - but I am getting older and slower.
ONE MORE LONG TERM COMMENT! As per the vid our group absolutely loves the system. And wev'e only had two failures with six riders over seven years. (As per the vid, one was poor fitting technique, the other was racing in a hard enduro over very sharp rocks with low air pressure).
We've just had one more, Jeff's high pressure tube in the rear wheel deflated. He pulled it apart keen to see what had failed as it's only nine months old. It turns out he hadn't tightened the nut for the rim lock.
The rear knobby very gradually moved and eventually the valve stem wore through against the rim. So rider error, not the TUbliss system. Did the lock nut slowly back off perhaps? Possibly. I checked mine and the front nut wasn't very tight. Good idea to check them a few times a year!
Yeah, it was a muppet error not tightening up the rim lock enough.
Now, I check the rim locks every time I check the spokes (which is only when I sell the bike)
Totally agree with you, been using them for years...my tip use Stan's instead of slime never leaks
Thanks for the detailed review. I've had this on my radar for awhile now. I was waiting until I needed new tires but I can't wear out my Bridgestone fast enough
Been running Tubliss now for over 10 years, on 4 different bikes, front and rear, and love it. If I change what tire I run I l really like the flexibility to find the psi for that particular tire that works for me.
Many moons ago. I rode a whole season of technical riding and and enduro with a Pirelli MT-43 Trials tire at 4-5 lbs. most of the time. That setup got FANTASTIC grip in snotty situations we have here in the NW U.S.. It did kinda suck when trying to corner in the dry gravelly terrain. I rode it during practice sessions at my local mx track, with 8-10 lbs. in it. Kinda sucked there, but that was all about tire choice. For slow, wet slogging, itt was great. Everything else, like in life, and it was compromise.
Totally recommend Tubliss system. Awesome traction
We agree!
@@crosstrainingenduro next time your heading up the sunshine coast. Please contact me. We have a very dedicated group of guys riding , glasshouse, kenilworth, Amamoor.etc..all late model bikes, keen to chat and learn.
Another good presentation of the facts Barry.
I've been using TuBliss since 2017 and really love the system.
Easy tyre changes, adjustable air pressure from zero to 15psi and it's reliable.
I've never had a high pressure tube issue and only a few tyre punctures.
I recently tried a mousse that was supposed to be sized for my chosen tyre to be around '8 to 10'psi.
I was unable to ride the same terrain I normally can using TuBliss as the mousse was not soft enough and then obviously non-adjustable.
We run half a small bottle of Slime in each tyre both as leak prevention and as a lubricant for the inside of the tyre 👍
Hey mate, great to hear! I'm back from down south so will check in soon. Hope all is well...
i'm using for many years Ultra heavy duty tires... For the dutch ground base its a awesome innertube.. its a bit harder to mount but take the time for it..
Been using Tubliss for 10 years. One failure of a 5year old high pressure tube caused by rust into the steel belts. Balancing wheels does really help the feel even on rough terrain, anything over 15mph.
I love tubeliss, perfect if you do woods riding and track. I find them easier to change tires once the tubliss is fitted
When I bought my YZ125X the previous owner had Tubliss installed. It seemed to work fine for awhile until the front developed a problem. My shop replaced it with a brand new front bladder and new tire. The bladder seemed to hold up OK but the tire had a slow leak from the get-go so I don't think they installed it correctly. I'd never tried a mousse before and decided to try one in the front. I've never had a rear flat with a tube, even running 5-6 psi, so I think the magic formula for me is mousse in front and heavy duty tube in rear.
Tubliss for 1 year now and loving it
Great to hear. Easy to fit?
@crosstrainingenduro Thanks and yes, easy to fit. It's better to use new tires as you said, no leaks and running 4 psi. To install and I'm using the no pinch tool. Greetings from Costa Rica 🇨🇷.
300 hrs on Tubes no issues
-4mm Ultra Heavy Duty Tubes
-9-12 psi checked day of ride
-8oz Slime
-Tuned KYB suspension
-Occasionally clean slime fibers from valve
-Ride Endro B class Wyoming to Texas
-
I love the Tubliss system. I also use the slime method. My first system lasted 7 years before the wire in the red liner rusted. I will say tho if you ride alot and use very soft tires (ie. You go through alot of tires) then I would go with a mousse that way you can keep the moose well lubricated.
4 year on same set of tubeless. Love it. Never going back. Tires are way easier to change and rarely ever get flats anymore. Yes they can leak a bit but who cares. Im always changing pressure anyways based on terrain.
Put tubliss in my rear tire before the race season and a moose in the front. I have had 0 issues in 5 races so far at 8-9psi as we race more high speed offroad and I am a heavy rider. The traction gain over 15psi on tubes is increadable and I won't go back.
Perfect analysis Barry. Our group has seen the same great results.
Great to hear, Garth
Great info. Much appreciated!
Glad it was helpful!
I've had a TUbliss setup in the rear for 5yrs . no problems with punctures but it's agreed once a tire is set it's almost impossible to get another proper seal. No amount of slime has stopped a super fine veil of bubbles from the bead . Slow leak but lesson learned.
Mousse for me, F & R. I really like that the what-air-pressure-should-I-run decision is taken away. And I know they aren't supposed to last but I get out on the bike probably 30 days a year and they will last a while at this rate with zero maintenance. It's reassuring to know they're in there when pounding through the slate and rocky trails that Wales in the UK has to offer.
Love the vids
Great that's working for you, Peter 😁
Please keep pushing for them to do the 17" wheel you have a great following and would benefit greatly we discussed this on FB but hopefully it will be seen here as well by the right ones.
👍
Glad to hear that the red shield wear over time before I blow through. It's the first time I see that (I have been using mine for only 2 years)
That was from running 0psi over a few rides as an experiment, Cedric. But I should have had Tyre Slime in there to prevent the friction!
Stans latex tire sealant from the bicycle shop is better than Slime, I put 200-250ml rear and between 150-180ml in the front tire. An added benefit is that this will seal most punctures before you’re aware of them, another adde benefit is dynamic balancing for those fast road sections. 😀
IMO Barry, spot on review, at least these have also been my findings with the use of the system. I have run them for 6 years on all of my enduro bikes 6 KTM, 1 Beta, 1Husky, 1 Sherco and have installed them for friends on their bikes literally dozens of times. Of course installing them properly is critical, I usually dose the inner bladder with a product here in US "Armor All" this seems to deal nicely with the sealing issues 100% with new tires and when mounting a used tire, which I do at times, relative success, that is it usually will leak some every 3-5 rides depending on how hard I am hitting objects but for me only a slight inconvenience. I have also done some intensive light adventure rides over multiple days with my KTM500/tubliss system on a mix of 70/30 dirt and pavement with speeds up to 70mph with ZERO issues so I am sold. Tried other systems and just not checking all of my boxes well so at this time Tubliss is here to stay on my 2022 KTM 500 and 2022Sherco SE 300.
Great to hear it's been working well for you, Dirk. Armor All makes the fitting a lot easier too!
I’ve been running them 7-8 years. The only issue I’ve ever had is the first time I fit one and didn’t follow instructions carefully enough (since then the videos are very good). I run radial trials tyres most of the time and it works fantastic at 3-4psi. Even no air the tyre won’t come off. I had a tyre finally fail due to cracks (LOTS of hours) and leaked, but I could still ride it out.
I bring along a small electric pump and can raise/lower pressure if I need to ride road, 3psi on the road is pretty spooky (and likely quite hard on the tyre). I’ve had them on a bunch of bikes and use the front and rear. Fantastic. BUT I don’t ride fast anymore and mostly like the very slow, tight stuff with lots of log hopping etc.
Yes! Only just commited to buying the Tubliss system. Bloody expensive but "but" after seeing this review I'm happy I did ;)
Hope it works out well for you... just follows the instructions well and it should all be drama-free.
Tubliss Rear Mousse Bib front is what I’ve settled on.
Front low pressures make squirmy riding so not a huge benefit. Less rim protection and I’ve had multiple flats, yes I sealed them with 2-3 tire plugs but was a hassle and found little other benefits.
Front mousse is great rim protection, where I usually get flats and feels like a 11-13lbs tire so handles normally.
Rear Tubliss traction is phenomenal and I can run my tires longer before I feel I need to replace them. I’ve settled on 6.5 psi any lower and for my weight and speed it gets squirmy and unnecessary rim strikes.
Tubliss is lighter than a HD Tube and considerably lighter than a Mousse.
Ditto on the issues with the front, especially if you run in faster terrain with rocks and roots. I still run tubliss in the front just because I am lazy though. Mousses are pricey and can be a pain to work with, while the idea of patching/replacing a tube trailside seems equally annoying. I just run 13psi in the tubliss and have maybe flatted once.
@@simplyaaron I find the Mousse easier to install that the Tubliss in the front. Tubliss was always a pain in front as there wasn’t as much tire to flex.🤷🏻
Been running tubliss for 7 years on multiple bikes and love it. I definitely agree with the tyre slime method or similar alternative options around the rim. I also use silicon spray on any areas that can rub like the red inner liner and the inner tube where it slightly kinks around the air valve etc. I run around 4psi with Michelin Xtreme rear and 8psi front Michelin medium. Thanks for the video. Cheers.
Hey you think tubliss can be installed if rim is slightly dented?
@@sliceofbutter6766 i cant see why not as long as no air can get in between tyre and rim etc.
I’ve done 200 hours of mixed riding on a moose no issues but I’m keen on trying tubliss for a comparison
Absolutely love it ! I use nitrogen for the inner tube so temp doesn’t effect it
Just my opinion but I think nitrogen is a waste of money.
Air is roughly 78% nitrogen and I don't think your inner tube bladder would get hot or cold enough such that expansion/contraction of the 21% oxygen would make any significant difference to the pressure. Just my thoughts...
Great video thank you
Glad you enjoyed it
Also tyre changes are easier with TUBLISS. I get awesome traction with 6psi even when the tyre is worn out. Been using them for 3years with no issues.
Running tubliss for about four years now and have had a few issues. High pressure tube got "pinched' where it goes by the low pressure valve because the little rubber piece that is supposed to protect it cracks and allows the tube to rub against the metal valve stem. This happened twice about a year and a half apart. I now check this anytime i change tires and have added a few wraps of gorilla tape around it to keep it form tearing. So far so good.
Other issue was constantly getting punctures in the front where the metal plate that sits above the low pressure valve on the outer side of the hard red rimlock tube/shell would puncture my tire over rocks and roots when running lower pressures (8 ish or less psi ). I thought it was just bad luck with sharp rocks, nails, etc. puncturing the tire until i realized i had a nice grouping of tire plugs in a vague square shape at the same spot where the metal plate on the red tube sits. Now I run my front at 11-12 psi and have no issues since. So, like the vid says, if you run fast and hard (and I would add that if you run on sharp, rocky, rooty terrain often even if you ride slower) keep that psi up around 10 or above in the front to avoid this issue.
Also, changed from tire slime to armor all for the inner lubricant and it has worked well. I found that the slime really doesn't do much to seal anything anyway. Also, a lot less messy during tire changes.
I am thinking of trying the Meggs Brapp method of Nitro mousse up front and Mousse/tubliss combo rear. Sounds like a nice setup after watching her vid about it.
I reckon the TUbliss guys would love to hear abou that 'pinch', Max. One of our guys is keen to try the Nitromousse, he will belt the shit out of them for a few months and we'll report on whether they work well or not.
I like tubliss for Enduro type riding, but not really for racing. I have a stack of nearly new tires with small sidewall punctures. I usually swap to a tube for a while until the stack is gone.
Two seasons ago I got put down on a fast trail do to a sudden loss of air on the front tire while running Tubliss(that hurt). Last Saturday on the return from the trails, the same thing happened on the asphalt... I had a nice 30' slide, that cost me a new jacket, pants and jersey, lucky I was in full off-road armor and got no injury or road rash. Anyway, my trust off Tubliss is shattered.. I'm never running it again up front, I'll stick with a tried and true ultra-heavy duty tube at 12psi and a rim lock. That said, I'm totally spoiled by running a hybrid tire at 6psi in the rear with Tubliss, I've also never had an issue with the system on the rear so I'm keeping it on that end.
Bummer! Did the front knobby have a very soft firewall? In my experience, the typical knobby still works okay with 0psi... it's sloppy and will roll around with fast cornering but it feels like a tube setup at 3psi. E.g. rideable.
@@crosstrainingenduro I run a Shinko MX216 Cheater Fatty up front at 12psi. Both times I lost pressure suddenly and this caused the front end to wash out. I doubt its the tire's fault, both times the tire lost pressure at speed, not going straight and this caused me to lose control. Btw: there no puncture or tear in the tire.
Thanks! I have been running for 7+ years at 8psi (>1000hrs). I started using both front and rear tubliss but found minimal gain on the front. Now I just use a standard set up on front and tubliss on rear. Runs flawless with slime. Thanks to this video and comments I will move this down to 4-5psi. Did not realize you could run this low without issues!
You might ding a rim on roots or rocks with fast aggressive riding, Troy. But our rides are slow and technical so it's been great for traction.
Depends on your weight, terrain and speed. I’m 220 w/o gear and a fairly fast rider and settled on 6.5psi, less and I sometimes hit rocks on the rim or it gets squirmy in a corner and more the benefit starts to drop off.
I too gave up on the Front years ago and moved to a Nitro Mousse, I find this the best combination for anything I come across.
I put tubliss on my bike 4 years ago because most of my riding is in an a area that is more rocks than dirt. Lots of sharp rock too. They have worked well some complain of having to air up the tires but you should be checking tire pressure before every ride any so to me it is pointless to complain about such a small thing. Maybe they should take up lawn bowling. Tubliss was a game changer for me.
I've been running Tublis for a couple of years now and love it. While 3 psi may be good for traction, I don't like it at the higher speeds that I tend to hit from time to time. 7-8 psi seems to be a happy compromise and I don't have to change pressure out on the trail...or worry about pinch flats. I get lots of flats from large thorns so I always use Slime...even when I was running tubes. And Armor all for lube. Works great.
I was concerned about losing the high pressure pressure so I check it at every ride. The problem is that just checking it will loose pressure so now I just top it off with my high pressure bicycle pump before each ride. Probably overkill but it only takes a few seconds to do. I usually get it to 120 psi so that it's at 100 psi by the time I remove the fitting since it does leak a bit just removing it. I haven't had any issues with loss on the low pressure side.
True story. I was installing a fatty front tire and had a hell of a time spooning on the tire. Usually front tires are easier than rear tires but this was like installing a mouse. So after bloody knuckles and all, I finally get it on. It was miraculous that I didn't tear the tire where it has to seal against the rim. So I go to pressurize the inner tube and, what do you know, the valve stem was still in it with a bit of pressure in the tube, DUH!!!! At least now I know I could install a mouse if I wanted to! 🤣
Great to hear it's working out for you, Dave. We had one of those 'Will I tear the tyre?!' moments on the new bikes lol.
Another nice benefit of Tublis is that you can have a ding in your rim and it will still seal since the sealing takes place between the inner liner and the inside of the tire. New rim vs Tubilss??
I have run Tubliss for around 900 hrs and love em. Here are the only issues I have encountered relating to the system itself. Tears around the base of high pressure valve stem (make sure the HP valve stem is nice and straight). Slow loss of pressure of the HP tube (check the pressure before a ride).
Related issues. If you slice a tire there aint no fixin with plugs. If you run low pressures don't go around corners fast as they roll like mad, especially gummy tires. When removing tires you need to be extra careful not to catch the inner liner with the tire irons. ( i bet most tubliss users have trashed at least one liner?)
I've been using tubliss for a few years. Its been great. I have had a rear that goes flat overnight, even though I used a new tire and follow the instructions meticulously. If it happens in the future I'll try the slime trick on the bead. I run some goop in the tires. The goop I choose is primarily for balancing the wheels but can also seal minor punctures. This is a great solution for dual sport as I can run a tire that has reasonable road manners, then air down aggressively on slick trails. Slippery in my area is dust and marbles over smooth hard decomposed granite. Very typical in the Southwest US.
Great to hear! If the air leak annoys you, it might be worth popping the wheel off, just push the knobby in a bit to get it off the bead and dribble some Slime around the rim. I didn't get a good seal with a used knobby once (not surprisingly) and it came good after that without needing to actually take it off the rim.
my experience Artful is as far as balance goes, liquid sealer in tyres can only unbalance them, i have seen manufacturers claim the opposite but then withdraw the claim. i have tried to balance wheels with sealer using weights, but sealer just makes it impossible.
@@gilogreenaway2989 The stuff I used worked great for balance. I also tracked down the extremely slow leak. It wasn't at the bead.
After I spontaneously ripped apart a tube on the highway I spent some bucks to put a 18" rear on my DR. Didn't want to ever have to deal with finding a shop in the dead of night again. It's a little finnicky since it's a 2.50 rim width but it's held air in the cold chamber the whole life of this tire ~3k miles. The high pressure tube needs air about once a week to maintain 110psi.
I was going to convert the front to tubliss as well but I ended up buying some old stock and the red liner's coating was sharding apart like old plastic.
Haven't had any issues with the fuzz. I doubt they would look close enough to notice beyond the tire sidewalls.
Used them for 5 years, zero issues. Slime is an excellent recommendation, I used it myself both to help with install and to seal up the Tubliss system as well. I converted over to a Nitro Mousse on both tires. They work as advertised, resulting in a softer feel than a traditional mousse. I end up with essentially the same pressure I would typically run a Tubliss at but with zero risk of flats. I’ve been able to have a mousse last through a couple of tires, just re grease and install the new tire. One less thing to worry about going wrong!
Good to hear, Dylan! One of our guys is thinking of swapping from TUbliss to Nitromousse for racing.
Would definitely check out the Nitro Mousse, really does what they say.
Been running tubliss on my dualsport, easily best upgrade I've done. You need 100g front and 120g rear tire weights opposing the blue valve to balance the wheels out but once you do that they work great on the road and I haven't had any issues at all.
10/10 nothing quite like being the only one in a group that doesn't get a flat.
I detest fixing punctures, Jordan. And I hate changing tyres lol. So this has been a great compromise between tubes and mousses for me...
A quick question Jordan.
The balance of blue valves would still be easier than having to balance the rim lock on a tubed tyre?
I get a noticeable shake on smooth roads but never have attempted to balance things out.
Same here, 0 issues and total flexibility in air pressure. I did encounter a massive front wheel bounce at 100kph on asphalt but it vanished after adding proper weights to balance the wheel. Actually I only balanced the front but the rear is on the list, didn't quite feel it's bounce i guess or just lazy.
I really enjoyed my time spent with tubliss gen1, some 12 or so years ago we had them officially in brazil, nowadays the shipping costs and import taxes are prohibitive to order from overseas. We use the Lucioli ultra heavy duty tubes here. But I really liked the ease of installation I had with tubliss, and the fact that for me it just planly worked. I still have a new but dried out old stock front one that I can´t get to seal. When the opportunity arises, I´ll buy me a new set, this last generation seems to have all the problems covered.
I want to try Lucioli have you had a good experience? This channel should do a review not sure if he is familiar with it. I did not like mousse (bike felt heavy and unresponsive, no pressure adjustment, too expensive to keep replacing all the time) and I’m trying to decide between Lucioli and Tubliss. Thanks.
@@dosovnis7090 Lucioli is our only accessible option here, like tubliss, mousse has a prohibitive cost. I never had any experience with mousse, but people say the weight is comparable between Lucioli and mousse. Durability wise, I've never seen someone replace a Lucioli, if you don't do anything stupid, they last countless tires. I don't know how much they cost for you guys overseas, but I would give it a go. They are pressure adjustable, give all the feedback regular tubes do and are pretty much bulletproof.
@@ajr.1272Great thanks I think next week I will install Lucioli for both front and back.
You could also try Nomousse, the wall is thicker than the tubliss system and also taller, protecting the rim against hard hitting rocks or roots. Same air pressures allowed ann the inner tube inflated between 3 to 6 bar (45 to 90 psi). Only for the rear wheel though.
I've got Two sets of wheels. One set with Tubliss for dual sport and basic trail riding. One set with mousses for races and the gnarly stuff.
Good combo!
I’ve had mine on front and back for 18 months now. I do everything from daily commuting to moto camping, single track and hare scrambles with them. They’ve never let me down and I love the traction.
So far one puncture and it was pretty sweet being able to plug the tire.
I do find mine ALWAYS LEAK. The high pressure will loose about 10psi over a couple weeks.
The low pressure chamber I’ll loose about 1-2 psi per day. It changes. These days I loose less. I don’t run slime unless it’s really bad. I got pretty used to just checking them before each ride.
10psi over two weeks is pretty good actually... mine tend to drop that much in one week. Although of course you probably lose 5psi simply through checking the air pressure.
3 or 4mm cheap tubes with a bunch of grease. Im doing cross contry and motocross with only one set of wheel and limited budget, basically, i always feel im on the wrong tires. The Meg Braap set up is pretty legit too!
Never tried TUbliss. Had such great success with extra heavy duty Michelin tubes for 10+ years, its hard to complain. But, I have been considering other options - TUbliss or soft NitroMousse. The extra traction of 6psi from either setup is very tempting.
The traction is ridiculously good... but it does have to be weighed against other factors.
I run tubliss in the rear at 6 psi and a tube in the front at 18 psi. For the terrain here in Northern California this setup works best for me. I now install a tube with the tubliss installation plate with the tube pre installed in the tire.
That's what I'm going to do, switch to tube in the front. Most benefit from Tubliss is probably the rear for a "tourist" like me.
Tubliss in the front not worth it?
Tubliss on the rear of all four of my bikes. Been using them since they came out. Never had them on the fronts. Use heavy duty tubes on fronts. Have had a few inner liner tubes get punctured (nails, tree limbs, barbed wire). Still carry a spare front tube on bikes for just that reason. Like the adjustability of the Tubliss system and have no problems with installation. I’ve gone through so many tires over the years, I have plenty of practice. I run Slime in all the rears. This helps seal the Tubliss system, and makes it easy to find a tire puncture and to plug it on the trail. Will never go back to tubes in the rears, and don’t have any desire to fight with a mousse during installation or tire removal.
Damn,those inner tubes must go with a loud pop! As mentioned in the vid, only one of our crew had that happen in seven years and he said it sounded like a gunshot lol.
@@crosstrainingenduro Never heard them. They all died due to a puncture. You end up having to pull the red ring out to use the tube. We zip tie the ring to the front of the bike to salvage it and get back to the trucks. Looks stupid, but those things are too expensive to just toss. Oh, and I have ridden on a flat tire with the inner tube holding. Thought something was wrong as I kept feeling the rear end smacking rocks. At the time, I was dealing with some rear shock issues, so thought it was that and kept going. Finally stopped after about five miles of rocky hill climbing and took a look. Oops, rear tire was flat, shock not the issue. Plugged it, CO2’d it, and finished the ride, another 10 miles in the Rockies.
I've used both the tubliss and moousse. I'm now sold permanently on using moousses, it is a no brainer for me if you want total reliability. Sure their life span is about 3 years but that's 3 years of hassle free, no tools required riding.
How many hours are you doing in 3 years?
@@stillcantride7159 hi there, I'm yet to test mine to 3yrs cause I've only been running them for 6 months but...my mate gets around 3 years out of his and he rides hard every week. That said he changes his tyres frequently and uses lots of lube. Heat is what destroys moousses, so if you change your tyres frequently, like I do anyway, and apply fresh lube every time, then there's no reason you shouldn't get between 2 and three years out of a moousse.
@@UTPP fair enough, I’ve heard varying lifespans for them, I’m just around 25 hours on my first set.
@@stillcantride7159 I've got over 50hrs on my current ones and their perfectly fine.
Thanks bazza I keep popping normal ultra heavy duty tubes and was going to go tubliss instead of mooses
Had my first ride of the season yesterday. I hadn't check the high pressure tube since last November and I figured it would be flat. It actually had 85 psi in both the front and rear and the low pressure was only 1 psi down from where I last had it. It nice to know that if I forget to check it, I'm going to be OK.
Excellent, Dave! Once I forgot to check mine for about three months and it had dropped to 50psi but it was still keeping the tyre in place... but obviously it was running a risk.
@@crosstrainingenduroI install with 100% slime, nothing else. I set my compressor to 100 min and 120 max. I fill until I don’t hear anymore air going in. Last week I was doing a leakdown test and set it to 80# and forgot to reset it to 100#. Normally the bladder loser about 1# a day and tires lose 1# in 2 to 3 weeks. Unfortunately when I filled up before my ride I actually lowered the bladder pressure.
I’m not sure exactly when the bladder failed to seal, but I rode 30 street miles for a meet up and a few miles into the ride hit a kicker that lifted the rear about a foot off the ground. I think that’s all it took to break the seal in a big way.
With a Trackmaster rear, I kept riding another 20 miles through a jagged rock bed but had to bail because it wasn’t holding air but had no punctures. That means the seals broken and I didn’t want to put a tube on and hold up 7 riders.
Ironically when I got to my bailout home, I picked up a rivet shallow in the rear on the way and the bladder actually had failed separately.
Moral of the story, always check the bladder. As for you, count your lucky stars you didn’t have my experience.
Part 2🙃 I had a new liner and bladder at home. After inspecting the tire, to my surprise, it didn’t show any signs of abuse. I cleaned it and used my Slime only install and after plugging the rivet puncture, it’s happily hold like new.
I used the “Blackburn Plugger Bike Tubeless Tire Repair Kit” that is smaller than a standard tire plug and perfect for most Tubliss repairs.
I've been running TUbliss for four years, covering two bikes and around twenty tyre changes. I've not had a single failure on the trail yet, I normally run around 2-6psi rear and 5-8psi front. The only time I've had a failure was during fitment and was my own stupid fault for being careless with the tyre levers.
For my style of riding, having the flexibility to adjust your pressure on the day and throughout the day trumps the higher reliability of a mousse. Drastic weather changes at a recent race proved to be a perfect example of this - I just dropped my pressure to suit the wet and muddy conditions.
Good to hear, Coxy. I figured you might have swung over to mousses once you started the hard enduro events, but it's good the TUbliss is holding up. I figure you went as low as possible for the second day of the Kozzie then!
@@crosstrainingenduro Haha! Yes, I think everyone could have used a bit more grip on Sunday. I ended up running around 3psi on the rear which seemed to get the job done.
Look up Tacs pro mousse. Technically it's a half mousse that is only compressed on hard hits or when tire is below 4psi.
Not yet shipping across the ocean from Romania, but seems like a great supplement to Tubliss. Id like to try one for peace of mind at super low tire pressure.
Same tubliss is in it's second bike with 2 MotoZ Hybrid Arena tyres each. Enough said!!!!!
Currently using the tubes cause my new bike came with them. Might as well use them till they blow-
Thanks for doing this review. Very helpful to see others' comments and experiences to compare against my own. I had 2 front Tubliss high-pressure tubes in a row fail around the valve stem. This was compared to having zero issues using conventional heavy-duty tubes, so I asked myself why am I going through this extra expense and hassle to create problems I didn't have before? The dealer who sold and installed them said Tubliss had had some QA issues recently causing those failures. I do run Tubliss in the rear with zero problems. So I've the worst of both worlds - I carry a puncture kit for the rear and a replacement tube and tire irons for the front. My IQ is low enough and as as soon as my memory of the bad experiences on the front fades enough I will probably subject myself to another round of Tubliss front torture. The Slime idea and keeping the lock nut around the HP tube loose, like we do with regular tubes, are good ideas.
Bummer to hear, did you talk with TUbliss head office about that? I've heard they'll often send you out freebies if it sounds like a genuine product failure, and they'll quizz you about it to ensure it's fixed....
I also had a HP valve stem fail after sitting for a few months. Figured it was just time since it was 3yrs old. Still very happy with the system. Also Got to be careful not to get the spoon under the tube when removing!
I did not talk to Tubliss' Head Office regarding those failures- good idea and should have, but I was so tired of having unnecessary problems I gave up, on the front anyway. Will try again when I have more control over my patience!
I too had more issues with a front tubliss on the bushpig and TE300 than the rear. So I went back to a tube for the front and kept the tubliss in the rear. My logic is as follows: If there's going to be a puncture, 80% of the time it's going to be on the rear. The rear is a bigger PITA to remove to get to the tube, so I'd rather use a plug. I carry a 21" spare tube around anyway for the front if needed, and it'll work in a pinch in the rear in case the tire gets un-pluggable or the tubliss system fails for some reason. Also the bushpig is my ADV bike and not really made to be bashing into rocks at 3psi anyway, so for offroad stuff I keep the front at 15psi minimum and have the option to go real low in the rear if I find myself in a sticky situation, but otherwise keep the rear at ~15-20 psi. 27-32 for highway riding loaded up with gear.
I use tubeless with slime for the front and tubliss with an half mousse in the rear.
I run tubliss filled with a few ounces of Ultraseal tire sealant for AA/Pro off road racing. I used to use the green tire slime but found that it would dry out after a few months and eventually I'd get a flat. This latest setup is the best in my opinion. I hate the way bibs feel, they're non-adjustable, they get beat out and need regular replacement, and they don't fit properly in all tires. Not to mention very expensive. The tubliss does have an installation learning curve, but once you figure out the nuances it's an amazing setup.
I agree with fitment... the first time took ages as I made sure I followed the instructions carefully. After that, changes have been quick.
I've been running tubliss for 5 years or so, and never had a system failure while out riding, with the only problems being caused by fitting technique. I did have a few punctures during a 24hr race last August though, 1 in the front that I found at 1 in the morning when I came in to swap riders, a 'dog turd' sealed it up nicely and it did the rest of the race and a few practise rides after. In the rear I managed to pick up 3 little cuts, I fixed 2 with dog turds but on the 3rd the tool broke while trying to extract the tool and left a sharp barb in the tyre, so I swapped rear wheel to a spare. With both of the punctures I didn't noticed until I came in to the pits, possible helped by the slower speeds during the dark hours. I did use the rear tracker compete with holes at 0psi for about 10 hours during the winter with awesome grip! 😂
You have to love those dog turds!
@@crosstrainingenduro have you seen one of Megbraaps latest videos about using an old mousse as well as tubliss? Sort of best of both worlds! I've got a mousse in my race wheels then when it's worn out I may cut it up and try it.
No, but one of our guys has been doing that for two years now. Works a treat!
Hi, tubliss for 6 years. The rear is the same. Front, i malested it myself and bought a new which is only 3 years old. Despite i m a speeder and dont like hard enduro, tubliss made me capable. My friends think that my best is gorges and river beds but its not, i like speed...The only problem was a lot of front flats by rock on the rimlock, like rulete, bang on the rimlock...also at my place you need metal bash plate to make it around with no tears, a heavy one. Running never less than 7 psi
Michelin UHD tubes with slime in them 👍🏻 after years of previously using mousses
I run natural rubber heavy tubes because the other tires iv had had a soft carcass and was worried about punctures. But now that I’m liking the ve33s that has a stronger carcass I’m thinking about trying tubliss 🤔
Been using Tubliss for more years than I can remember. I use slime instead of soap and water to seal things up. I really like it. I've only had 2 failures that wouldn't have happened if I ran tubes in all those years. The first is Michelin Starcross 5 soft front tires will not seal for me. They'll hold air for the first couple of rides, but then start leaking and no amount of reseating and sliming will make them seal. In an hour, they're flat again after being pumped up to 12psi. I really like the starcross 5. I'm thinking about going mousse in the front at least. On the rear, I was running an IRC VE33S. I ran 6 psi in it most of the time. It quit holding air and reseating would not help it. Upon changing the tire out, I discovered the inner carcass had separated from the cords. So, even though it wouldn't have leaked with a tube, it did with Tubliss. I still run the same brand tire, but now I've upped the pressure to 7psi. Maybe I just beat the tire up too much in the rock gardens. Other than those two tire failures, I've had no issues.
Bummer about the air leak, David. You think it's Michelin specific?
@@crosstrainingenduro Yeah, I think the carcass at bead area on the starcross is too thin. I think the tubliss bladder can't get out of the drop center far enough to pinch the bead and keep it sealed. The starcross have pretty thin carcasses.
I think TUbliss pairs up well with knobbies that have a decent carcass, as you can keep riding (gently) after a puncture if needed. You'd just be riding on the rims with a very soft sidewall...
I have been running the Tubliss system for around a year now , the only issue I have encountered is several punctures , all of which have occurred due to the rimlock piercing the tyre , I assume that this occurs when a rock or root impacts the tyre just at the time the rimlock is inline with the impact point . I intend to address the sharp edges when I next do a tyre change . 3 flats in 1 year and about 3000 km of mostly single trails is pretty good , especially when you don't actually have to do anything but keep riding ( albeit slower and more carefully ) back to the car or home base .
Check out the NoMousse system! Works awesome and very reliable.
I've used Tublis for quite some time now. Not sure how long but serval years at least. I had 2 of the first ones I installed that leaked slowly. But it wasn't the tire that leaked down, it was the high psi tube that would bleed off pressure over time. If my memory serves (which very well may NOT), it took a week or two before I had to add air to the high-pressure tube. For me this wasn't a problem as adding air is part of my pre-ride checks. And I never thought it was a "problem" per say. It's just something to keep an eye on. Now in more recent years, the newer versions don't leak down as quickly as the old systems did for me. Now a days; I have to check/fill it after winter during my spring checks. And maybe once or twice during the season. But otherwise, I don't worry about it, unless I tear a tire or have to change a tire.
We usually just put air in before the ride each weekend. It usually shows as 10psi lower after a week, although a fair chunk of that is simply from losing air while checking.
@@crosstrainingenduro I don't fool with mine anymore. I don't even check the psi anymore, unless I have reason to think I damaged it. 2 or 3 years ago when I got one of the current versions I pulled the tire monitor off of my truck's valve stem and monitored the high psi tube over a week. I think TUbliss changed the composition or thickness of the tube because they only leak down 1-2 psi a week now. (old ones used to be 20-30 psi/week) And even that is with in margin of error given the fluctuations in temp and barometric pressure. So now adays I check them (the High psi tube) every month or every other month (depending on how much I get to ride).
I do want to comment on your chart at 3:43. I agree with everything listed on the section on Mousse, but I would have added one thing to both the good and bad section. Mousse's drastically change the feel of both the front end and the rear. For some this may be a good thing, and for others it may be a bad thing. Personally, I can't STAND mousse's. For me; on the rear they're "OK,,,,,,,,,,ish". But on the front? OH HELL NO!! The mousse just doesn't have the delta V of an air spring. And I can't get used/adapt to the dead front end feeling. Drives me nuts. And yet, other folks love them. To each his own.
I know, some hate the 'dead' feel of a front mousse, others like me have no issue with it so I didn't include it in the chart... but it was mentioned in the original video.
Tubliss da almeno 6 anni , nessun problema , grande versatilità. All’anteriore , ho notato che con pressioni particolarmente basse, il fermacopertone fora la gomma. È sufficiente stare almeno ad un bar con la 90-90 oppure 0,8 bar con la 90-100. Adesso li ho rimossi dalla seconda moto per montarli sulla terza ( nuova).
6 anni? Bravo!
Havent tried tubeliss yet, currently mousse up front hd tube rear. Ill have to give the tubliss a shot in rear next tire change 🤘
I have been using this setup for two years and works great. When I’ll have to replace the front tire most likely will also replace the mousse, but after two years this is a good deal. Before that use to get a lot of flats in the front tire, I ride North Mexico terrain that is rocky desert.
@@rogermty1971 my only issue is how out of balance my front tire is but i ordered some weights to balance the wheel so we'll see how that goes
1 1/2 psi in the rear, IRC m5b evo
tubeliss is amazing, used the gen 2 for now at least 5 years, never going back to tubes, i hate punctures
Same here, I'd rather listen to bagpipes than change tubes lol
Awsome video as usual!
I live in Colorado and so I'm riding "western US" desert and rock conditions. Have run TuBliss, currently running bibs, probably will go back to TuBliss when the bibs wear out. TuBliss is much easier to install than bibs of course. The big negative with bibs, aside from their expense, is they are very heavy and you can feel their weight when you ride. Bibs also aren't "adjustable" and depending on what stiffness you install, they feel like riding around with 15 PSI when they are new. Plush? That is bib BS, not when they are new. The upside of bibs is you can spear pointy rocks at speed out in the desert with near impunity 😆
TuBliss makes any given pressure slightly softer than tubes in my opinion, so if you usually run 12 PSI in a tube, running 12 PSI in a TuBliss is like running 10 or 11 PSI. If riding high speed desert you don't want to run single digit air pressure as it really risks slicing the tire open. I had that happen to me and that's why I switched to bibs in the 1st place. Was able to ride the slashed tire back to the truck as it didn't affect the high pressure bladder, and pretty sure if I had been running 12 PSI in the tire it wouldn't have happened at all.
Like the video says, I do like that the rider can adjust the tire pressure to the conditions. Slow technical riding? Lower the pressure. Fast open desert riding? Raise the pressure. The ability to adjust your air pressure is cool.
Great to hear they are working out well for you, Craig. As always it's cool to have these options available and just work out what suits best.
I built 2 wheels sets for the DR650 , both 21/18. One set has 2.5 rear, the other 2.125. So I fitted Tubliss to the narrow one. Playing on local single track, just the diameter difference of a 18 with a tall narrow tyre makes for much easier rut work, dropping to 0 ~ 6psi with the Motoz Extreme Hybrid tyre had me blown away with the traction on all surfaces. However, seeing as I had the second wheel, I fitted a 140 Motoz RallZ with UHD tube. Yep....waaaaay heavier. But, I drop it to 6 ~10psi and I honestly think it does better in a lot of situations. The Extreme Hybrid relies more on it's compound for traction, the Rallz is really wide, big knobs, and a big gap between them, so on steep climbs when I hit tree roots forming step ups in the ruts, the RallZ hooks and climbs more easily, same with surfaces that are slippery but have chunks of rock mixed in, anything solid it claws over. Crossing fallen trees in general I prefer the RallZ so far. Slick rock, the Extreme Hybrid. So going forward, I think further experimentation with tyre brands and types will produce some interesting results. Over all, just the 18 inch wheel has been a significant improvement. Disclaimer: My DR has RMZ forks, triple clamps, front wheel, swingarm, shock, and linkage. With the suspension unloaded and setup in my normal REDUCED height setup, I have 400mm under the bashplate, so I can ride ruts the smaller bikes get stuck in, my bashplate may be wider, but it's further off the ground, and utilises the width that other riders footpegs have carved out. So ruts that the 250/300/450 have abandoned are a lot of the time still a viable line for me. It just floats the back end over the tree roots. Really goes a long way for making up for the fact I'm old and broken. I've called it my disability single track bike, and in some ways it is. As long as I don't have to pick it up. I seriously considered (and have all the parts laying around in the shed) building a 19 inch rear with cush drive. The extra diameter has made the biggest difference to date, so I figure, why not go bigger again?
Great to hear, Adam. Only three rides but must admit I'm loving the Rallz so far. I'll be doing a new vid about DR650 suspension options soon and I'm going to mention the RMZ forks... did you find it an easy swap? I'll be doing the old 1983 to 1988 RM250 conventional forks option soon. These just slide right in and work with the stock wheel and axle. All it needs is a custom caliper adapter plate. The bike is sitting a bit high at the rear with the big 140 Rallz so the longer forks will balance it out nicely. And get some extra clearance.
@@crosstrainingenduro Yeah for the forks I have done 3 versions on DRs. One was the USD double chamber from an 07 RMZ250, triples, forks, and wheel, super moto 320mm disc and caliper adapter. I did another with 1999 RMZ 250 conventional dual chamber forks, triples, forks, DRZ wheel and super moto 320mm disc with caliper adapter. The last one was an 06 RMZ single chamber USD, RMZ forks, wheel Disc. The RMZ swingarm and rear shock and linkage was another progression done back in 2009. I bought all the components from a US wrecker who was breaking old stock brand new bikes. So things like shocks, $150, swingarm, $60, linkage $60. I measured an RMZ frame, did my calculations, and then cut the DR shock mount off, and cut the linkage mounts off and welded new mounts fabricated from 6mm plate. My argument at rego was I didn't modify the frame. I modified the shock mounts. The only down side was I ditched the airbox because the shock sits central and clearance was an issue. I just run a pod filter off a pumper carb. The only real issue with front ends is speedo drive. If you use the DRZ wheel, you can use the RMZ250 axle and forks from before 06. So you can use the DRZ speedo drive and hook the standard DR speedo up. If you go with a full RMZ front end from 07 onward, the 250 and 450 went back to the same USD fork, axle is larger, the front wheels changed PCD so you just need to get the right disc to match. Steering lock, I made an adapter plate, mounted the ignition barrel to the plate, it bolts on to the bar riser bolts under the top triple clamp. In terms of anti theft...it's about as successful as standard. Yeah, you could spend 30 minutes trying to dismantle it, or just break the lock pin like the thieves normally do. So that didn't worry me. I'll have to do a walk around vid and sent you a link. But it transforms the bike. I'd tried gold valves and aftermarket shock upgrades and all that, and the RMZ suspension valved and sprung for the DR is like a factor of 3 to 1 better than the "usual upgrades". I grew up racing MX, and at nearly 60 I ride a bike in the dirt like an MX bike. So I just figured that MX suspension was probably a smarter place to start.
Great info, thanks for that Adam. I'll include some of that in the upcoming vid. Out of interest, how did you go with fork spring rates? I assume these would have been a bit soft for the weight of the DR650. I'm checking spring rates for the old RM250 forks I'll be using and it looks as though I can only go as high as 5.0 which I hope will be enough. The stock ones are 4.3....
ruclips.net/video/WeycJdb4m3w/видео.html did a quick walk around for the basics. Yeah, sprung for weight. Front is probably slightly stiff, I like them that way. 0.62kg/mm. Rear spring came off an XR650R, It’s progressive wound. Works really well with the “step” people say they feel in the RMZ linkage. So super smooth over trail chop, takes big hits. Having that high and low speed compression adjustment is brilliant. Rear travel on this is crazy. My ATV lift is topped out, tyres are still on ground. With the spring off the shock I measured 340mm travel on the rear. Basically, before I did some shim work on the shock I was doing big jumps, bottoming it out, and hitting ground with the bashplate. Seat height is crazy. For single track I drop preload off shock, so it sits at about 40% rider sag. The rear climbs over axle height roots and trees so easy I often stop and look back to see if they just broke.
Mate of mine was doing Cape Tours out of Cairns on the other DR I built, and he loved it. This one’s much better than that one. An evolution ahead.
You can do the 06 Triples and forks and use the standard steering stops. I just preferred the 07 triples because they gave me greater range of adjustment on fork leg. You’ll see in the video I have the forks pushed up in the triples about 30mm. That’s not as far as they’ll go, but it’s close. That’s my single track setting. For riding soft sand out west I drop them the full amount and give it lazier steering. I didn’t have that range on the 07. I need to do something about a speedo. I was running one of the old Vapours, but apparently upside down in a creek is bad for them. So I use a speedo app on my iPhone on the Quadlock on road, and Hema trail maps off-road. My son bought me a GPS/EPRIB thing for some weird reason. He stopped coming with me when he busted his leg up. Easier to just buy me an EPIRB.
Love the sound of all that rear travel! I'm very tall so I'd have no problem with lifting the DR650 quite a bit, but I'm on a strict budget and not great with mechanical skills so I'll just stick with some RM250 forks and get the rear shock revalved I think. Thanks again for the video and info link, it will be good to present viewers with a range of options.
Not to be finicky, but 100PSI is roughly 6.9 bar, that's 690kpa....
I'm a plumber. Pressure is important to me.
I love my tubeliss also, great vid.
I think ill stick to tubliss for now, unless i was to race a complete race series.
Nothing but good luck for me with them!
Same here... if I was ever serious about racing it would have to be mousses, but for everyday riding? TUbliss all the way.
I'm using tubes, but I use an old tube that I slice and pull over the tube that it's being inflated with air. So maybe poor mans mouse. But it works great, haven't had a puncture in years and I run 0.4 - 0.6 bars in the rear which I think is around 5-8 psi.