Engine Oil Analysis Review - Blackstone Labs - Titan Lab Results Australia - Worth the Money?
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 2 авг 2024
- Oil analysis is a quick, nondestructive way to gauge the health of an engine by looking at what's in the oil. People use oil analysis for different reasons: to see if there are any problems developing, to see if their oil is working well in the engine, and to see if they can run longer oil changes.
Viscosity: Determines the grade of oil.
Insolubles: Quantifies the percentage of solids present in the oil.
Flashpoint: The flashpoint is the temperature at which the vapors from the oil ignite. When the flash is lower than it should be, it shows
a contaminant (usually fuel) is present. This test also looks for moisture contamination.
The measurement of these tests are in ppm (parts per million). The elements consist of wear elements, additive elements and trace elements.
Wear Elements: This shows how one part is wearing against another. There is an amount of “normal” wear. If any wear element is abnormal, the lab will highlight that element.
Additive Elements: These are simply part of the additive package. These additives include; however, not limited to:
Detergents Anti-Friction Anti-Wear Dispersants Anti-Foam
Trace Elements: These are indicators of external contamination entering into the system. Trace elements will increase when one compartment product enters another compartment. The most common example is coolant entering the engine. We have an electronic copy of our wear metal origin chart available. This is to help provide possible sources of high elements. Trending is very important in oil analysis. With 5 samples viewable on one report, it will be easy to see any exception to your trend.
OIL CONDITION
Oil condition analysis provides soot, oxidation, nitration and sulfation data. Spectrochemical analysis measures wear particles in the oil. Oil condition is a measurement of how the oil is degrading. This testing is essential to anyone that would like to extend oil change intervals.
Soot: Soot is basically unburned fuel. It is what makes diesel engine oil black. Soot needs to be controlled. Excessive soot can shorten engine life and is very abrasive.
Oxidation: Oxidation occurs when oxygen molecules join with oil molecules. High oxidation will make the oil thicker than normal and lose lubrication. It will be accelerated by high oil temperatures and/or glycol contamination.
Nitration: Nitration occurs in all engines, but is generally a problem in Natural Gas Engines. Nitrogen compounds from combustion thickens the oil and reduces lubrication.
Sulfation: Sulfur is present in fuels and affects engines. Fuel sulfur oxidizes and combines with water to form acids during combustions. Acids corrode all engine parts. There are buffers in the oil additive package to help combat this process.
PHYSICAL TESTS
Several physical tests are done on all samples. Some tests are compartment specific.
DIESEL FUEL ANALYSIS
Diesel Fuel Testing has grown in the last few years. We do have kits that contain certain tests. We also provide a la carte service. We strongly suggest calling the lab with your situation and we will provide what tests you may need. Diesel Fuel testing is more expensive than oil and coolant testing. Listed is a partial list of tests provided:
More About BundysGarage:
goo.gl/qv3Wzc
Questions, Comments, Concerns:
bundysgarage@gmail.com
Twitter:
/ bundysgarage
@bundysgarage
On The Web:
www.bundysgarage.com
Music by Randall Kent: As seen on NCIS
• Randall Kent - Going H...
All Rights Reserved 2019
© Copyright 2019
Bundys Garage
All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed in whole or part with out the express written permission. Contact: bundysgarage@gmail.com
DISCLAIMER - DISCLAIMER - DISCLAIMER
Due to factors beyond the control of BundysGarage, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. BundysGarage assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. BundysGarage recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of BundysGarage, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the end user and not BundysGarage nor any of it’s subsidiaries. 
Авто/Мото
Very informative video, it’s interesting to see his point of view on everything.
hmm not so much hes barely got an idea of the subject itself. Hes sprouting off opinions like facts and suffering from confirmation bias. Sounds educated but a bit of an armchair 'expert'. If you knew anything about metallurgy or tribology you could see through his comments. Go to the noria machinery lubrication website and educate yourselves. Disregard 95% of what he says in this video.
@@cryptonight1455 Thanks for this, I will check it out. All due respect to the guy he did say he’s no expert & only said it works for him with great results. Wether this is luck or fact who knows. Maybe you were reading him a little wrong. He just looks comfortable & confident with his own opinion & is happy to share it with us. I respect that.
@@Landybandy1 He is correct more than not....big exception is synthetic. Back in the day, 20 years or so non-syn wasn't made from recycled oil. I'm speaking in generalities as to years....Even if one was to compare non-syns best year against premium syn they still wont compare. I do overall agree with his logic! There is a reason/REASONS "ALL AIRCRAFT USES SYNTHETIC"!
Question????..is the small added cost worth a new engine?????? Please give me feedback!
@TechSeller I do this on all my vehicles. A few bucks for some data that can save you money in the long run. Also helped me on a few warranty issues with my Ford.
There is plenty of reasons to check the oil.
Coolant can alert you to an oil cooler or head basket failing, or even the compressor.
Fuel dilution can alert you to a failing injector or cylinder issue.
It will alert you to a failing air cleaner.
Its for more than oil change interval.
My engine is worth $55,000 and I use $350/day for fuel. A $30 oil sample every month is a great way to monitor the engine conditions
Please consider switching to Amsoil. Thank you.
@Peter Angles Sure let me get right on that! Great way to talk to someone who is just making a living with the highest quality product on the market, for motor oil. Not overpriced. If you use Amsoil you can go 2-6 times, with oil analysis, the OEM recommended drain interval. So how about go take your oil, recycle it and buy some Amsoil, from another dealer of course! (I make no money for referrals to another dealer) I said all that bc I personally wouldnt want a negative nelly as a customer anyway. :) Have a great and prosperous day!
I don't care what oil you are using, if there is coolant or fuel leaking into the oil the oil needs changing and is not a factor at all. Or are you trying to imply fuel dilution of motor oil does not affect the oil? If you are saying that, you are about as knowledgeable about how oil reacts with fuel added to it in a crankcase and need to start peddling olive oil for a frying pan.
If you cook the oil it will turn black without any dirt added to it. So the engine heat can darken the oil. But yes the detergents in the oil keep dirt and contaminants in suspension and that also turns the oil black.
additives turn oil dark. the detergent is in there to keep the dirt/particles in suspension so they make it to the filter.
Yes, partially. However, conventional oil burns at 260F. Hes shooting his own foot. Our oil starts to burn at 475F. Difference is night and day.
I love how he speaks only on his experience and the statistics behind it and openly admits “maybe I don’t know”
You say, "Use conventional oil instead of synthetic and just change it more often". Do you realize that there is less than 15¢ a quart difference between the cost of conventional oil vs full synthetic when using five-quart jugs of Supertech oil? Why not just use the synthetic and still change it at the same interval as you would with conventional? ...?
Steven Sevek absolutely, I agree with you.
@@jibrilsarabi2908 Because like he said in his video "maybe I'm a idiot"
There's a much larger difference in cost.
Well he doesn’t know what he’s talking about.
Funny thing is he says change it every 3k my bmw it’s up to 15k the computer tells you when to change it. That car has 252k miles and hasn’t ever had the engine torn down. Starts like new. Car always took full synthetic oil.
For the transmission aspect of the video. If you heat the oil too much it will become depleted and lose most of it's viscosity and not protect. So if you are putting lots of stress on the transmissions and/or don't have a cooler in route. You will want to change it more frequently. As far as engine oil; they put in calcium and magnesium in the oil to keep the carbon deposits from sticking to the cylinder walls and dispersing throughout the crankcase. Dirty oil isn't necessarily bad oil as it's proof it's cleaning as it should, it doesn't necessarily mean that it's depleted yet. If possible run a larger oil filter, so you have more filtration media for extended changes if the oil you're running allows for it (verified by a UOA). Also molecularity synthetic oil is superior in every way. It just got a bad rep in early production; it had more cleaners which made gunked up seals start to leak. Now you can find synthetic for higher mileage engines that contain seal conditioners and all that. Just my $.02
My Honda has a maintenance minder that indicates an oil change at about 7,500 miles. I follow it with Pennzoil Platinum synthetic oil. At 483,000 miles the car still runs great and only loses between 1/3 and 1/2 quart between changes (leaks at the rear main and crankshaft seals) Compared to 3,000 mile intervals, I've saved over $3,200 ($6,500 at dealer prices) by following the Honda recommendations for oil change intervals. Synthetic oil is better
At what mileage did/do you change the conventional oil?
Cool story bro
@Google User
You didn't say how often you changed the oil.
My Honda MM is every 3500miles with full synth oil
@@stevensevek6151he did... Read it from the top.
Just heating the oil up to the same temperature as the operating temperature of the engine for a specified time will turn it black with zero contaminants in the oil.
I’ve literally watched videos of this process taking place. Doesn’t necessarily mean the oil is dirty.
When to change the oil is always a hot topic. Thank you for making this clip, I enjoyed watching it, hearing your perspective. In 2 of my vehicles, (2002 7.3 ford diesel and 1981 rabbit diesel) I installed oil bypass filtration that filters the oil down to 1 to 2 micron, through an amsoil 1.5 qt bypass filter. I should be able to go extended drain intervals for my set up, but an oil change is cheap insurance.
I have a '97 7.3 F250HD, and a made in PA (where I live) '85 Golf diesel. Blackstone charges $175 (I added up their pricing) for testing (soot, sulfur, antifreeze in coolant, V100 and wear metals), but CAT charges $15 for the same stats, slightly more other info is also provided. If I were you, I'd not worry a bit about changing annually or at sever duty or normal use intervals (whichever comes first, a year, the interval). I've tested and found nothing interesting in the tests, both Blackstone and CAT said it's fine, keep running it after 1,000 miles on different oil changes. I plow and pull but don't have any mods that can affect injectors and turbos and wear the oil prematurely.
@fredflintstone You are doing everything correct. Running our oil and bypass filter, you can possibly go long periods without doing an oil change. Use oil analysis. Our kits are $30. If you need any Amsoil, please let me know. I hope you have motoring pleasure for many, many miles and years!
Oil analysis will tell you which additives to use in your engine ie. The ones resulting in the least wear.
It is difficult for most people to establish what does and doesn't work without oil analysis.
Oil analysis often makes the choice black and white.
Lifespan of an engine can be extended 2~10x by using the right oil and engine treatments.
That's a major benefit that it would be very hard to quantify without oil analysis.
🙂
Advice from a guy who wants to drain brand new synthetic oil and "flush it 3 times" to get rid of "contaminants", lol
He kept saying he's not that smart. He might not not be formally educated as an engineer but he's definitely a smart person and above all else, he is WISE.
This guys only bias are is experiences but he's damn humble. I respect that. Interesting listen.
This guy is a beauty. Awesome advice.
Show me the scientific data and I'll believe Mr. Mustache.
Best oil is clean oil. My friend has 317,000 miles on Chevy van with conventional oil. Still runs great. My neighbor has 750,000 on his 07 Honda Ridgeline. Deal changes it when the OLM light goes on. He says $29.95 with free wash.
Just think how much money he could have saved using 100% (not full) Synthetic oil!
Super Tech full synthetic from Walmart. $15.00 for a five quart jug. All the cool numbers and letters as the big names and it’s API approved. Your Welcome.
Penzoil platinum is actually one of the best quality for the dollar. Project farm tested.
i change the oil 3 times during the first 15,000 miles of a new truck. After that i refill with Amsoil and only change the EA oil filter every 20 to 25,000 miles and top off the oil. Zero bottom end problems and at between 600 and 650,000 i sell them in good running condition and buy a new one. That IMO is not creating alot of waste.
So you're not running Fords lol Only the 7.3 would handle that treatment reliably. Cummins?
@@galehess6676 No. Not at all. You can run any engine with our oil like he described. Our stuff is 100% Synthetic. No ‘Full’ Synthetic.
The guy recommends against synthetic oil despite it being recommended by basically every major vehicle manufacturer... Yeah, not going to keep listening.
agreed, guy was talking like an idiot...
Someone who speaks from authority should be properly educated.
Time for me to also ignore this video. #thumbsdown.
Check the oil until you get a feel for it. The Rotella I was using the viscosity was low.
While regular oil analysis may not result in a lot of useful info an irregular analysis can be very useful e.g. Establish a baseline for wear in an engine. If the wear is unusually high you might reasonably ask the dealer to do something under warranty.
🙂
Oil analysis will tell you which oil to use e.g.
Wear is lowest when using:
1) Synthetic oil
2) Semi-synthetic (better than mineral oil)
3) Mineral oil (most wear)
🙂
Paul Tetul Sr. Lost some weight and he sure calmed down since his O.C.C. days...
All jokes aside, good video, pretty informative and nice to see his POV
Premium synthetic oil can be very useful for certain applications and/or driver needs like owning a car in severe climate regions, extended drain interval for busy people, racing in hot climate, performance & tuned cars' harder strain, consistent shifting for motorcycles during summer, taxi or limousine vehicles reduced shop time & idling oxidation, hybrid vehicles, and turbocharged cars.
If u change oils frequently, yes … u can use conventional. I totally agree.
I want to know if something is failing so im prepared $ wise or maybe not run it as hard an make it last longer...
You can Google Irv Gordon. He drove his Volvo over 3,000,000 miles and claimed he changed his oil faithfully every 3,000 miles. I change my oil and filter when I can’t see my oil dip stick measuring lines through the oil. Walmart Super Tech full synthetic oil and Motorcraft filter $21.00 for both.
For what it’s worth Irv Gordan used Castrol GTX with oil change every 3500 miles.
No he changed it every 3,278 miles. Change it often with quality oil and filter and it will last a long time. I have a Silverado I change every 3,000 with synthetic and it has 300,000 miles on it!
He doesn’t know what he’s talking about 🤦🏾♂️
YES!! he says synthetic is garbage and a waste of money, but then says to use synthetic.....
@@knurri but he just said to drain a brand new transmission and flush 3 times to get rid of the "contaminants" from the synthetic oil, LOL
Yep. An oil analysis isn't really about the oil itself, it's to check the health of the engine by seeing what particles are in the oil :/
If you see loads of aluminium, copper or iron then there is excessive wear going on and something is bad.
Maybe he secretly uses only synthetic lol
Oil analysis will tell which which oil not to use i.e. The one causing the most wear
🙂
Everything has its place, synthetics are better suited to extreme conditions, especially cold climates. Changing your oil more frequently is almost certainly cheaper than repairing or replacing you powertrain more frequently...
Premium Synthetics are suitable for someone do does a lot of highway miles and and want an extended oil change interval or for fleet operators who can do a true cost-benefit analysis. Everyone else is flying by the seat of their pants.
If synthetic oil is required for an engine, then you have to use it. But you don't have to use the most expensive product. You can use low priced synthetic and it will meet the technical requirements of the engine.
Synthetic oils are either Group III or Group IV base. Group III is made from petroleum and Group IV is made from natural gas. If a synthetic is Group IV, it will say right on the label that is made from natural gas or it will say that it is AOP oil.
As of 2022, the price difference between low price synthetic, semisynthetic and conventional has just about disappeared. All low price synthetics should be considered Group III unless it says it is not on the label. For oil change interval purposes, Group III synthetic can be treated as glorified conventional oil. I would say, allow a 25 to 50 percent longer oil change interval with Group III, depending in the vehicle, brand, type of driving and your own judgement and common sense.
One thing about motor oil is that you do not need to think about the ability of the oil to neutralize acids or suspend contaminants if they are never there in the first place. Keep a short oil change interval and they won't be there.
My advice is easier to handle for people who do their own oil change and other maintenance but that's the way it always is. Life is easier for people who can do their own home repairs and handyman work and it's easier for people who can cook too. Anything you can do for yourself makes your life easier.
I use synthetic and change it when the oil life monitor get to 50%
to each his own. Everyone doesn't engine oil analysis for different reasons some people do it because they just bought a used car . Some people do it to see how long they can go on an oil change. Some people do it for a piece of mine.all three reasons I brought is a excellent reason why you should do an engine oil analysis. If you feel like it's a waste of money that works for you best kind of silly to think people are going to take someone's advice just because they say it. And For those who concert don't read. To each their own
I can't believe my English was so poor. Lol
Everette Singleton First off Oil Analysis test are total BULLSHIT, your being played. If they truly are testing the oil they don't need to know shit about how many miles it has on it and what vehicle it came out of. It all an ( algorithm ), they aren't testing shit.
To prove my point, change your oil, run the new oil for 500 miles, drain it and send in one sample and put it has 11,000 miles with no vehicle description, send in another sample from the same batch of 500 mile oil 3 weeks later and put it has 4,000 miles with no vehicle description. Sit back and wait for the sample results and you'll realize how much of a scam and bullshit it is. And people are paying money for that crap! It's a scam!
Oil analysis is well worth the money for aircraft engines. I have it done every 100 hours. It clearly shows when the engine is worn, or if some part in the engine might fail. I have over 25,000 hours in the air. They have saved me several times. Yeah, I do it in my vehicles as well. I use synthetic oil because it has superior lubricant characteristics. Oil analysis will also tell you when to change your oil. I go by laboratory science, not opinions.
There is very little differance in price between convetional and synthetic oils. Heat is the killer of conbustion engines and this is where the group lll synthetic oils come into their own, expecialy if it´s a Turbo Charged Engine as most heavy trucks are. There is no reason not too go synthetic.
@sneakypete187 Walmat Super Tech Syn. 5w30 for $15 5 quarts. API SN
@sneakypete187 Walmarts buys it´s Super Tech oil from Warren Distributions.
Interesting POV - certainly you wouldn’t do a bottom end overhaul on a car at the sign of increased ferrous metals in the oil but obviously the are certain situations and applications that warrant a closer look Like the Porsche Boxster engine IMS issue or or aircraft / aviation applications
I don't know about transmission fluid, but you can mix engine oil without any issues. I use a synthetic blend on my truck because that is the most synthetic oil I can run without blow by. I guess his trucks may not be designed to run on synthetic, but I would never use conventional in a vehicle that is designed for synthetic. My truck had enough issues with the difference between the properties. You'd think that newer vehicles would exploit these properties of synthetic and not lubricate properly when using conventional. It is different oil.
Interesting. I am considering blending synth/conventional in a 7.3 engine, because my oil is still clean looking after 1,000 miles and has a "0" for soot in the lab test (use CAT dealer, it's $15 for $175 worth of the same Blackstone tests lol).
Great Advice! But I can’t do every 3K with my Mobil 1 High Mileage Synthetic. Mobil 1 says it’s good for 10K, and I’ll change every 5K. (Maybe every 3K if I’m doing hard driving.)
The oil might be good for 10K miles but is the oil filter up for that abuse. If you go that long I would change out the filter at 5K miles. 2 filters for every 1 oil change.
@@bundysgarage thank you!
Better advice: Use Amsoil oil and oil filters at the recommended oil change intervals. If you want a blanket of protection go to 15k with our oil and filters instead of 25k. Learn to do oil analysis and learn your vehicle. Even if you run Mobil 1. Do the oil analysis and learn where you actually need to do the change at. Our kits are $30 and they goto Oil Analyzers. 100’s of thousands of ppl run oil analysis every single month.
Gosh I’ve been doing all wrong for the last fifty…50…five oh… years. Glad I watched this! Old 87 Toyota has 210,000 miles, been changed on guilt factor. On this whiskers logic, if the book says change every 300 miles, he’ll change every trip around the block.
It's really easy to measure the difference between a mineral and synthetic oil just use a magnetic sump plug?
We noticed a huge difference between a mineral and semi-synthetic oil.
We couldn't pick the difference between a semi-synthetic and synthetic oil using a magnetic sump plug.
Here's an example of a magnetic sump plug being used to measure wear:
xcelplus.com.au/docs/testimonials/colt.pdf
Oil analysis is more precise with more detail about non-ferrous metals:
You should be able to pick up the difference between a semi-synthetic and synthetic oil using oil analysis... although it will probably be small for a large price difference: There is probably a genuine argument for not using a full synthetic if you're already using a semi-synthetic?
Here's an example of oil analysis being used to measure wear:
xcelplus.com.au/docs/yaris.pdf
However if you do oil change more frequently than normal the wear difference between mineral and synthetic oils can be minor e.g.
www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/30383/engines-oil-analysis
If your change intervals are higher then synthetic oil probably makes more sense the longer the change interval?
The only way you would know for sure is to measure it?
The devil is always in the detail?
:-)
If the manufacture says put in X product you put in X product not they say X I’m gonna go cheap and put in Y...
Yea clean oil is best oil
If you change your oil every 3k, conventional oil is fine. No point in spending more money on synthetic. Personally I change my oil every 3k and use full synthetic oil. But I’m willing to spend more money for a superior product. Penzoil Ultra Platinum or Valvoline Advanced every 3k on the dot. My truck will last me a lifetime.
It is good to know if my engine is starting to show signs of trouble. Maybe I might want to not take that 10,000 mile vacation. Maybe I should save $ for repairs.
Better oil isnt actually better, but its better at the same time.
Changing oil at 3k is stupid if you have the ability to test your oil and see if it’s still has good additives left.
Engine oil analysis is NOT a waste of time. It’s useful but not for everyone. If it’s not for you, then follow mfr recommendations.
Black is soot, and soot alone or color alone are not indicative of oil health or lack thereof
I import a high quality oil from the Arab land and it’s certified by GM ( Dexos) and API, I am importing it to California and every mechanic I’ve taken to absolutely loves it plus I sell it cheap because it’s a new brand to them. Should I do an analysis of my oil and compare to to major brands to see where I stand? Or can mechanics tell and that’s enough. Anyone?
A lab can't tell the future and will miss a lot, not worth over paying for... read the comment below about sending a sample from a blown motor to Blackstone lol. Blackstone's fees ad up to $175 for what I get from CAT for $15, including postage and a much faster emailed response of 3 days from when I sent it in. (Soot, coolant ("antifreeze", Sulfur, V100, Wear metals, OXI, NOT, W and F all included, $15 bucks in a pre paid envelope I got at CAT dealer and sent in a year later when I drew sample with included tubing). I could check Fe, was 19 on 1,000 miles/30hours of some idle time and only pulling loaded; Soot 0, Sulphur 41, no coolant, 1 Cu, 1 Al, 914 Ca addititve to protect cylinder from carbon, etc., all for $15. Go see your local CAT dealer, maybe don't specify it's from a truck, because when they see a spike and figure out they should charge more.... Anyway, you're welcome.
I’ve been using Blackstone for UOAs on the Redline 15w40 full synth I run in my Cummins 6.7L turbodiesel and just realized they don’t report the amount of soot in the oil. However according to their analyses I can safely go 25,000 miles on Redline. Still no telling how much soot/ash isn’t getting filtered out and thus abrading the internals. Makes me worry now
As soon as I heard him say black was dirt I knew this guy had no clue.
Yeah he has no clue, that's why he runs a successful diesel business.
lol doesn’t even know what metal bearings are made out of 😂 synthetic oil has nothing to do with change intervals! Synthetic oils REDUCE WEAR because of their molecular structure which is why conventional oils can’t meet dexos spec.
He probably did have better drivers.
I respect anyone who has made it through the gauntlet of 25 years of changing your oil every 3000 miles. Threw money down rhe drain. The problem is he doesn’t understand true Tribology. Because he didn’t understand, he just stuck to what ‘worked’. It barely worked. When he says the vehicle is ‘just fine’ when he sells it, he has no idea. Shell oil is good oil. If it works for you, run it. Open the motor up after 450k and I can almost guarantee you it will not be long and 7/10 you are going to have to over haul the motor in the next 100k-ish miles anyway because the carbon that did exist ‘sandblasted’ the sleeves, bearings, etc over time. He could put on a bypass filter, even a different company them Amsoil, and get rid of the soot. But use Amsoil in that scenario and you can make our 100% Synthetic oil, which shell oil is not, last longer then 15-20k miles, you may cna stretch tow truck miles in the 30-40k range or even longer, with oil analysis. Once you learn a truck, you do not have to do oil analysis as often either! If you truly pay attention to your lubrication program and have someone properly managing your fleet of vehicles, you can both save money and time on oil changes, keep that truck working, and longevity of the fleet you paid good money for. I respect the hell out of someone who has gone down that road and made his company run and work for 25 years. But its like he was running a foot race with a bullet hole thru his foot, and bleeding he whole time! 🤦♂️
I am almost certain doing more frequent oil changes is a lot more beneficial than using synthetic. I wasn't even aware that was controversial.
I personally use synthetic but I still change the oil about 30-40% earlier than what the manufacturer calls for.
I don't go shopping for oil when I need it. I'm always hunting for deals and I'll pick up a few containers when I find one. For example I picked up a bunch of Shell Full Synthetic 5 qt containers for $15 each. Now I have enough for at least the next 2 years.
Also, I bought filters in bulk for $2-3 a piece. They were OEM's. You could probably get aftermarket ones for less. I don't think it matters much for filters. I like brands like Bosch, Wix, Mobil, Motorcraft, higher end Frames etc. Bulk is the name of the game.
Dark oil doesn't mean dirty or contaminated oil. All oils will naturally darken simply due to the heating and cooling process, and fuel quality. Are your fresh baked cookies with browned edges dirty and contaminated? No, they're fucking delicious and how they should be. Besides, upwards of 30% or more of modern formulations isn't even oil, it's the additive package, like detergents, conditioners, stabilizers, viscosity improvers, anti-foaming and wetting agents etc. Science has been quite clear, synthetic will always out perform conventional oil. In Germany for instance, their high quality fuel allows standards like VW's 504 00 (low SAPS) to have 30k mile change intervals and growing. Compared to hardly 15 years ago, the every three months or 3k miles was the standard change interval! To put it differently, what would take 10 conventional oils changes, only takes one synthetic change, or $400 compared to $60 over the same two and a half years. Oh, and there isn't a single manufacturer approved conventional oil, full stop, and you'll loose your warranty if you use conventional oil...but naw, all those companies just have it all wrong, this guy knows best, it's a damn conspiracy! He isn't pulling the "if it was good enough for grandpa, it's good enough for me" card, this guy is just lazy. Don't listen to lazy people folks.
Obscene language is not necessary.
@@njsongwriter Most things that happen and we do aren't necessary, but it wasn't obscene and that's according to case law established by the FCC when Bono slipped up on live tv.
"The FCC received hundreds of complaints about the Golden Globes broadcast after Bono, the lead singer of the Irish rock group U2, said, "This is really, really, f------ brilliant."
The enforcement bureau said last October that Bono's comment was not indecent or obscene because he did not use the word to describe a sexual act. "The performer used the word ... as an adjective or expletive to emphasize an exclamation," the bureau said."
Just as I did.
The color of the oil doesn't tell you jack.
soot suspension is related, my oil is clear after 1k and soot test says "0", 7.3 diesel
but the smell of it can. mine smells like gas
Given the mustache, I'm surprised by that American flag on the wall
Son is smarter than the father! This guy knows it all and don’t know chit!!! He’s does say repeatedly guys smarter than me.
My grandpa smoked cigarettes for 80+ years and made it to 95. Guess ill be fine too...........
Yes, and you could not wear your seat belt also and you might be Ok....unless you aren't. You could be Ok walking across the street blindfolded. It is a statistical risk. Your grandpa may have had protective genes.
Any idea how many cigarettes a day did your grandpa smoked? If he smoked 3 packs a day of filterless cigarettes since he was a kid, my guess would be, his last years he was on oxygen.
Testing an unknown motor has benefits, but testing a new engine over and over is a waste of money if you perform proper maintenance on said motor. Most labs look for the basics and then send you this happy report saying they found no problems. Consider this, for the price of a lab oil test you could change your oil twice as often if you spent the lab $$$ on oil instead of the "Happy Report"...
I found a blown motor and sent the oil into a lab in Indiana for testing. Guess what? According to them the engine is in great shape. A test means nothing unless they are looking in the proper direction. Lab rats do not know motors, thus, they are lab rats... I went several rounds with the head lab rat and the HMFIC only to hear about the head lab rats military background. I don't care. I only want a proper test that gives me real results that provide usable information which they DID NOT DO, end of story...
Thanks for the info, from what I see and hear the picture is starting to become clear that Blackstone are thieves and chumps. They charge $175 for the same tests of soot, sulfur, coolant(antifreeze), V100, and wear metals that CAT charges only 10-15$ for , with shipping included and 3 day turn around, while Blackstone's takes a week plus.
Unless you have a reason for testing like suspecting oil dilution because you dip-stick reading shows a higher level than when you changed the oil.
I believe regular oil analysis makes sense for things like aircraft that might have disastrous consequences if the engine fails. Larger engines like EMDs and other engines that hold hundreds of gallons of oil can benefit from oil analysis as the cost of the testing is minimal compared to the cost of changing the oil. I don’t see the point of regular oil analysis for a car or light truck. The cost of the testing is almost the same as changing the oil. To me it is a waste of money. I mean seriously, what are you going to do tear down your engine before it needs it because of elevated wear metal in the oil? If the engine in your car or truck fails nothing happens except you might need a tow. If your oil is getting diluted with fuel not only will you be able to tell by simply wiping the oil off the stick with your fingers, but your oil pressure will be lower. Take that money you are going to spend on the oil analysis and use it to change your oil more frequently! Most problems can be discovered by simply cutting the oil filter open and looking for metal. Now oil analysis makes sense for a used car truck or other equipment you are looking to purchase! This can save you a fortune by catching someone trying to screw you over by selling you something with an engine that is coming apart!
Cool video but hard to take the advice for anything but mid-size trucks. Wish an automotive tribologist could chime in on the above advice. Changing your oil early will always be better for the vehicle, using non-synthetic oil in a synthetic-speced engine is nonsensical, especially under warranty.
I've had 8 cars in my life, sold only for better ones, and have always just used the OEM or equivalent oil.
Except my manual 2002 Saturn SC2. Always used royal purple 5W-30 for the commuter and got 42+MPG on it.
NikoVlogs First off Oil Analysis test are total BULLSHIT, your being played. If they truly are testing the oil they don't need to know shit about how many miles it has on it and what vehicle it came out of. It all an ( algorithm ), they aren't testing shit.
To prove my point, change your oil, run the new oil for 500 miles, drain it and send in one sample and put it has 11,000 miles with no vehicle description, send in another sample from the same batch of 500 mile oil 3 weeks later and put it has 4,000 miles with no vehicle description. Sit back and wait for the sample results and you'll realize how much of a scam and bullshit it is. And people are paying money for that crap! It's a scam!
@@Mr.Beastforpresident Sir, your algorithm and oil analysis being a scam comments are blatantly incorrect and simply an opinion with no scientific basis, whilst not absolutely necessary to understand what machine it came from, it is helpful, different engines and components etc run very differently and have different metallurgical components and produce different results, to add to this, not all oils are created equal and different oils in different applications have different break points where the oil will 'fall over' when in use. Think about a standby genset versus an engine running under full load or car/truck doing short mileage around town vs on highway. If you had the data points to back up your claim (which you wont) i would be interested to see them. Oil analysis is a proven tool in detecting the ideal change point through the monitoring of the oil condition enabling proactive customers to achieve the most optimal change point which will save you money in the long term through fewer oil changes (if you have a large enough fleet) in addition to having the ability detect faults such as an increase in wear metals and dirt and fuel entries potentially saving components from failure. That said, advice on changing oil early is hard to refute using a good quality oil and changing it early is always a good idea if you dont have the analysis tools at your disposal. Good day.
No Chance I’ve put 541,000+ miles 13,000+ Engine hours on a 2008 GMC 2500 GAS 6.0 LY6 on Original Engine & Transmission. Without ☝️ b.s. oil analysis.
Oil analysis was designed for big ships with HUGE engines hundreds of gallons of oil. Keep drinking the kool-aid on oil and oil analysis. It’s your money.
There’s no substitute for experience. I’ve driven gas vehicles ( Commercially ) over 21 years and have many friends in the business. None of us do oil analysis and we go to oil labs all-the-time to drop off ship samples.
To each their own, again it’s your money and I’m sure the oil labs appreciate your business just to tell you your oil is good or bad.
He doesn’t believe in facts or science: “Not always right, but never in doubt.”
Man Paul lost some weight. 😂 lol
He does realize that diesel engines make the oil black instantly right lmao
Can't blame him. He does what has worked from him regardless of what the "smart" people have told him.
I do exactly what he is talking about. I have a OLM in my Honda. I change the oil and filter when the OLM reaches fifty percent.
This guy is really smart for what he says
Fully agree. On normal cars, by the time you paid for an analysis, you might as well have changed oil.
Yep he said it him self -synthetic is superior engine protection. Maybe he’s just cheap
Pfft a diesel engine will always have black oil even with a 2 micron bypass filter right after you add new oil from a oil change.
How do you figure? Our bypass filters filter down to 1 micron at 50% efficiency, and 2.1 microns at 98.7 efficiency. Yes it will be black, but given time, and constant running of the engine, it will be slightly black, only because of the soot created since the actual last run of the engine. Soot that causes 80% of the wear in an engine is between 5-20 microns. We filter all that out. Less soot= less wear add that to the fact if you run Amsoil, you are good to go for long periods.
@@peterssynthetics-independe6786 dear peter and Amsoil brother. Because soot gets down to .03 microns in size. A centrifuge has a hard time. And 2 microns is as good as any Amsoil filter will do. Thanks to the egr that redirects exhaust gas before the dpf " Dumbest idea ever!" It could've been after dpf filter because it's the NOX they were looking to reduce. So egr is dumping soot into the intake and reducing the size of the particle in the combustion chamber getting into the oil film in the cylinder walls and getting by the piston.
@@Jon-O. Only problem is Amsoil bypass filters do get particles at 1 micron at 50% efficiency. The designer himself has stated in many articles and in commercial videos. He has stated as well that it does get the under 1 mic particles as well. Amsoil, we really are the highest quality!
@@peterssynthetics-independe6786 you don't have to prove the quality to me. It's the best on the market hands down. It's just the nature of the beast with clean diesels and the goal for Amsoil to get the solution to soot removal even better. Even though it's good now. The problem I have is Ram sees a bypass filter installed on the truck they will immediately void the warranty. So it has to be removed before it's taken in for warranty service. It's sad and wrong and I'm tired of planned obsolescence by so many manufacturers. The short sightedness is astounding how many more people would be repeat vehicle customers even if the vehicle they had was still running 30 years later and only bought again just to have a new model because of the dependable longevity. Especially with the price of vehicles today.
@@Jon-O. I totally 100% wholeheartedly agree. I will also say, if AMSOIL was not the absolute best in the industry and continues to stay that way, Id stop being a dealer that very instant. If Mobil1 allowed dealer program, and it was clearly king of the hill, (we are) then I would be a Mobil dealer. AMSOIL is just THAT good. Yes. The planned obsolescence is really crazy. People also don't care. They make so much money they can afford to just drive something like crap and not even take care of it, and still get close to top dollar. This market will not continue then ppl will be busting down my door, which sales are picking up I will admit. It is not katie bar the door, but the day it does, I'll be ready! :) Dodge should be happy that such a system is in place. Voiding the warranty for something like that, is against the law. Moss-Magnuson act. Thank you for realizing true quality! If you ever need an AMSOIL dealer, please look me up. Have a great day.
has no idea what he talks about
And you want us to take your seriously on product reviews 😂. Why even test other synthetic products? No need to listen past the part he disagrees or don't understand synthetic oil or what oil does besides "turn black"
His mustache is ridiculous. Good thing that's not my face. So oil blackens when heated up. Not necessarily dirt. I think maintenance is the key. Doesn't matter the oil. Long as it's same viscosity. I also have a old mechanic that has a 200 plus truck it burns oil and he NEVER changes oil. Just tops off when needed. So who knows. BTW 25 yrs I've been driving I have never had a vehicle have internal engine issues due to oil problem. It's always electrical or transmission or all the other parts. 3 to 5k mile changes and u will be fine
THis guy is comparing DIESEL engines to car motors. He's right, he's not that smart.
Just an opinion by someone who wants to act knowledgeable but appears not to be.
Clueless