So I case image is over exposed how to fix that on a dslr ? Is there is a dedicated 3xposure wheel or something or I need to change shutter a d aperture and ISO?
You just have to look at your meter and change shutter, aperture, or ISO. That works for photos, but if you are doing videos, then you'll want to keep the shutter speed the same and only change aperture or ISO. Or you can get an ND filter to block out more light. I have videos on all those topics if you check out my playlist titled "Exposure."
Thank you Mr camber motion, you are great. I’m a real novice and I’ve just brought an Order 4k DVC which I’m learning on, then I intend getting a more advanced camera. I’ve found out that I have to upgrade my Macbook, which is ancient before I can download and edit, so you won’t be hearing from me again for a week or two, but I do want to say how much I appreciate your tutorials. They are really useful, thank you.
G’day mate my name is iSpike and I have a new Panasonic GH5, Doing my research and learning how to use it I have found your RUclips channel and happy to become one of your newest subscribers looking forward to learning from you and sharing videos cheers from Western Australia
What does it means to slow down a 120 frames per 2nd to 20%? Does that make the slow motion move a slower smoother and faster? I'm confused because they say to slow it down to 20% but aint 120 already slow as it is or means When you slow it down to 20% it will move faster than 120pfs?
The normal frame rate for cinematic type video is 24 fps. So when you shoot at 120 fps, you have 5 times as many frames per second (24 x 5 = 120). So slowing it down to 20% will make it so those 120 frames per second now equal 120 frames per 5 seconds giving each second 24 frames. Shooting in 120fps doesn't automatically make the footage slow, it just gives you the ability to slow it down to match the 24 fps timeline of your project. The same goes for 60 fps. If you slow it down by 40%, then you'll have 60 frames spread over 2.5 seconds.
Excellent video, spot-on (pun intended) and very concisely presented. Question: I have been watching a lot of tutorials on this and Googling but nobody mentions spot metering for VIDEO. They only ever seem to mention spot metering for still images. Is this only useful for still images or is it possible to use spot metering to focus on my face (for proper exposure) and then shoot video using that setting? Some more info about what I'm trying to achieve: I have a Canon G7X Mark II and I'm shooting myself up close for RUclips videos with the rest of the room dark (but still lit by blue upwash). I have the focus set to face tracking if that matters. I have complete control over my lighting using an Aputure 120D Mk II w/ a soft box and grid. I was having an issue with my blue upwash lighting on the walls behind me looking too bright (unfortunately I can't completely control the intensity of these lights). I have learned that in order for the background to look like a true blue (and not a washed-out very bright blue) I needed to set my light meter to -2/3 stops below zero. I am wondering if spot metering will help me or not but I'm not sure if my camera (or just only just Canon's high-end cameras like the EOS R, 5D, etc) allow for this option to use spot metering for VIDEO. Any amount of clarification would help, thank you!
Hey David, that’s an excellent question! I think people talk about it more for pictures because it’s easier to use in picture situations since you expose your shot and then take the photo. But with most situations when recording video, your subjects move around and lighting changes so spot metering doesn’t work as well. However, I do use slot metering for times when subjects don’t move much like with over the shoulder shots for conversations. That way I can expose for the skin and know it’ll be pretty much the same through the whole take. And I do use Spot metering in the exact way you are asking for my RUclips videos. I set up my lights and then stand in front of the camera with the spot on the brightest part of my face and adjust the exposure accordingly so that my skin is properly exposed. It’s easy with my Sony a7iii, but my Canon M50 only allows the spot metering mode to be used in the photo mode. So when I use the M50, I switch to photo mode and make sure all the settings in aperture, shutter speed, and ISO are set the same as I want for my video. Then I adjust the lights to get exposure set using the spot metering and switch back to video mode and use those settings I came up with in the photo mode. It’s a pain when it won’t let you use spot in video mode, but that’s my work around. Hopefully that made sense!
@@CamberFilmSchool Thank you, that's the exact info I was looking for. I'm saving up for a better camera specifically for low lighting scenarios and it's good to know some of them allow for spot metering in video mode. Thanks again for providing specific examples with the A7III vs M50, I was wondering if other RUclipsrs have to jump through some hoops depending on the software used. This will help my other channel greatly, thank you!
Ray Jenkins, that’s a tough one because you can’t really set for the exposure ahead of time or else you’ll just be trying to expose for a black sky. I’d try putting it on spot or center weighted initially when they start going off and fine tune it from that. Depends too if you are taking them with just a black sky or if there is a city or something like that in the background. If that is the case then I’d go ahead and expose for the lighted city using spot and your fireworks will probably end up being close to the same brightness as the city. 📸
I know this is for video, but if you have any insight on how this works for flash photography, that would be great. I assume, that metering doesn't change anything with using flash in manual. Is this correct or nah? I know it affects flash if in TTL or other auto modes.
Appreciate this! I have the Sony a7 III and so many times my shot looks great but my exposure meter is saying it's blown out or underexposed. I'm going to try spot metering from now on.
No problem, TD3. 👍🏽 I typically end up using spot metering as well to make sure I get the parts that I want properly exposed. Though each mode can be useful in its own way.
No you can’t save overexposed footage in post. I rarely use zebras, but when I do I have them set to 100+ just so I can quickly see what parts of the scene are overexposed if any.
Dheeh Advertising Agency, I’m not sure with the 70D because I’m not familiar with it. I pulled out my old Canon t2i and found that it will only let you change the metering mode when in one of the picture taking modes. I use Sony now, and it lets you change it in any mode. Maybe the 70D will only let you in a picture mode as well?
Great video! Liked! I just got a follow focus rig and I went out early this evening to practice. I was about 30 feet below and away from the bridge, where I had two young ladies standing against the railing facing me. I had the early moon above and between them. Practicing focusing on them, then the moon, then them again, I couldn't get them light enough. (Canon 50D, 70-200mm f2.8, with Magic Lantern allowing me to shoot video on the 50D). I'm still new at this. I'm guessing I should have used spot metering on the girls? I had the lens wide open and 800 ISO. (shooting 1920x1080, 30fps). Can I spot meter on them (or one of them) while shooting the moon? Thanks again!
If you have it exposed for the moon, then they won't be light enough when you focus on them because the moon is so bright. But if you expose for them, then the moon is going to be way blown out and just look like a white dot with no detail. The only thing you can really do in that situation is get a light to put on the girls and make it bright enough that they are exposed to the same brightness of the moon.
💡 Got more questions? Post them below. 🎥 What metering modes do you typically use? 📸
So I case image is over exposed how to fix that on a dslr ? Is there is a dedicated 3xposure wheel or something or I need to change shutter a d aperture and ISO?
You just have to look at your meter and change shutter, aperture, or ISO. That works for photos, but if you are doing videos, then you'll want to keep the shutter speed the same and only change aperture or ISO. Or you can get an ND filter to block out more light. I have videos on all those topics if you check out my playlist titled "Exposure."
Thank you Mr camber motion, you are great. I’m a real novice and I’ve just brought an Order 4k DVC which I’m learning on, then I intend getting a more advanced camera. I’ve found out that I have to upgrade my Macbook, which is ancient before I can download and edit, so you won’t be hearing from me again for a week or two, but I do want to say how much I appreciate your tutorials. They are really useful, thank you.
Thanks so much, josh B! I really appreciate it. 😀 I look forward to hearing how your progress is going in the future. Good luck! 👍🏽📸
I like the way this guys explains things!!
THanks so much, Desmond! 👍🏼
@@CamberFilmSchool your welcome
Thankd for taking us back to metering basics! I shoot mostly center weighted meterimg. and spot metering is also useful!ffer
👍
Such a great explanation . Thank you so much.
You’re welcome! 😉
G’day mate my name is iSpike and I have a new Panasonic GH5, Doing my research and learning how to use it I have found your RUclips channel and happy to become one of your newest subscribers looking forward to learning from you and sharing videos cheers from Western Australia
Thanks so much for you comment, iSpike! I'm glad that it has been helpful for you! Let me know if you have any questions about stuff.
Thank you! Great info and teaching style
You're welcome, Diana 👍🏼Glad it helped!
Great explanation. Thanks.👍
Glad to help! 👍
This is a big help imma try Spot from now on see how it comes out here and there
Review311 Studios, sounds good! 👍🏽 Let me know how it works for ya! 📸
This was helpful thank you! 🎥🙏🏻
You’re welcome! 👍
Excellent. Thank you!
You’re welcome! 😉
Very useful. Thanks
You’re welcome! 👍
Well, that was extremely helpful. thumbs up
Awesome, Jessica 👍🏾 Glad to help!
Beautiful explanation. I love this.
Marko Janjic, thanks! So glad it was helpful! 👍🏽
great thumbnail and very informative video. Thanks!
Thanks, bqgin 👍🏾 and you’re welcome!
clear awesome vid man
Thanks so much, Ale Loy 👍🏽
Thanks so much for this 👌🏻
No problem Paul Dolden Details. Glad to help! 👍🏽
Hi my friend did you know about speed ramping?
Yes, I do. Do you have any specific questions about speed ramping?
What does it means to slow down a 120 frames per 2nd to 20%? Does that make the slow motion move a slower smoother and faster? I'm confused because they say to slow it down to 20% but aint 120 already slow as it is or means When you slow it down to 20% it will move faster than 120pfs?
The normal frame rate for cinematic type video is 24 fps. So when you shoot at 120 fps, you have 5 times as many frames per second (24 x 5 = 120). So slowing it down to 20% will make it so those 120 frames per second now equal 120 frames per 5 seconds giving each second 24 frames. Shooting in 120fps doesn't automatically make the footage slow, it just gives you the ability to slow it down to match the 24 fps timeline of your project. The same goes for 60 fps. If you slow it down by 40%, then you'll have 60 frames spread over 2.5 seconds.
@@CamberFilmSchool thank you, what slow percentage would you say is good for speed ram, like a good smooth slow motion?
@@CamberFilmSchool I try slowing it down to 25% but it seems like it's moving way slower for some reason
Thanks for your video. What is the equivalent of the zebra metering mode for a Canon R6 please ? Cheers.
Zebras aren’t a metering mode. That’s a completely different setting on the camera.
thanks
You're welcome! 👍🏽
Very helpful
Moni Cohn, glad to hear that! 👍🏽
Excellent video, spot-on (pun intended) and very concisely presented.
Question: I have been watching a lot of tutorials on this and Googling but nobody mentions spot metering for VIDEO. They only ever seem to mention spot metering for still images. Is this only useful for still images or is it possible to use spot metering to focus on my face (for proper exposure) and then shoot video using that setting?
Some more info about what I'm trying to achieve:
I have a Canon G7X Mark II and I'm shooting myself up close for RUclips videos with the rest of the room dark (but still lit by blue upwash). I have the focus set to face tracking if that matters. I have complete control over my lighting using an Aputure 120D Mk II w/ a soft box and grid.
I was having an issue with my blue upwash lighting on the walls behind me looking too bright (unfortunately I can't completely control the intensity of these lights).
I have learned that in order for the background to look like a true blue (and not a washed-out very bright blue) I needed to set my light meter to -2/3 stops below zero.
I am wondering if spot metering will help me or not but I'm not sure if my camera (or just only just Canon's high-end cameras like the EOS R, 5D, etc) allow for this option to use spot metering for VIDEO.
Any amount of clarification would help, thank you!
Hey David, that’s an excellent question! I think people talk about it more for pictures because it’s easier to use in picture situations since you expose your shot and then take the photo. But with most situations when recording video, your subjects move around and lighting changes so spot metering doesn’t work as well.
However, I do use slot metering for times when subjects don’t move much like with over the shoulder shots for conversations. That way I can expose for the skin and know it’ll be pretty much the same through the whole take.
And I do use Spot metering in the exact way you are asking for my RUclips videos. I set up my lights and then stand in front of the camera with the spot on the brightest part of my face and adjust the exposure accordingly so that my skin is properly exposed. It’s easy with my Sony a7iii, but my Canon M50 only allows the spot metering mode to be used in the photo mode.
So when I use the M50, I switch to photo mode and make sure all the settings in aperture, shutter speed, and ISO are set the same as I want for my video. Then I adjust the lights to get exposure set using the spot metering and switch back to video mode and use those settings I came up with in the photo mode.
It’s a pain when it won’t let you use spot in video mode, but that’s my work around. Hopefully that made sense!
@@CamberFilmSchool Thank you, that's the exact info I was looking for. I'm saving up for a better camera specifically for low lighting scenarios and it's good to know some of them allow for spot metering in video mode.
Thanks again for providing specific examples with the A7III vs M50, I was wondering if other RUclipsrs have to jump through some hoops depending on the software used.
This will help my other channel greatly, thank you!
very helpful, thanks my guy
Glad to help! 👍🏽
Thank you for this video. I would love to hear your explanation of the Ansel Adams zone system
Thanks, JordanParkour 👍🏽 I’ll look into doing that some time.
Thanks man!
You're welcome, Lincoln! 👍🏼
for Group photos.. which metering would be the best choice?
I would use spot and put it on the person with the lightest skin so that it’s not overexposed based on that person.
did you serve in army?
Nope. Air force
Very helpful presentation. Shortly I will be joining some phtog friends to shoot 4th of July fireworks. Any tips in this regard ? Thanks
Ray Jenkins, that’s a tough one because you can’t really set for the exposure ahead of time or else you’ll just be trying to expose for a black sky. I’d try putting it on spot or center weighted initially when they start going off and fine tune it from that. Depends too if you are taking them with just a black sky or if there is a city or something like that in the background. If that is the case then I’d go ahead and expose for the lighted city using spot and your fireworks will probably end up being close to the same brightness as the city. 📸
Great
Thx!
I know this is for video, but if you have any insight on how this works for flash photography, that would be great. I assume, that metering doesn't change anything with using flash in manual. Is this correct or nah? I know it affects flash if in TTL or other auto modes.
I can’t really help you there. I have zero experience using flash with photography.
Please describe more about metering mode in canon entry-level camera 1300d...
What do you want to know?
Appreciate this! I have the Sony a7 III and so many times my shot looks great but my exposure meter is saying it's blown out or underexposed. I'm going to try spot metering from now on.
No problem, TD3. 👍🏽 I typically end up using spot metering as well to make sure I get the parts that I want properly exposed. Though each mode can be useful in its own way.
Would you say spot metering is best for portait photography?
Yes, because you can make sure you are properly exposed for your subject's face.
@@CamberFilmSchool appreciate the fast reply bro! 🤙🏼
No problem! 👍🏾
Its awesome seeing the reflection of the ring led in ur own eyes 😂😂😂
Thanks! 😉
What zebra setting for your exposure?
I typically use 100+
@@CamberFilmSchool can save the footage at post when ovee exposure?
No you can’t save overexposed footage in post. I rarely use zebras, but when I do I have them set to 100+ just so I can quickly see what parts of the scene are overexposed if any.
exp comp set----------function is there in sony a6000------what is the use of that function
That sets whether to apply the exposure compensation value to control both flash light and ambient light, or just ambient light.
@@CamberFilmSchoolinternal or outernal flash light ...which one...??
I would assume either depending if you have a flash on it. I don’t really have experience with flashes because we don’t use them in video.
How to choose spot metering to shoot a video using Canon 70D? If it allows
Dheeh Advertising Agency, I’m not sure with the 70D because I’m not familiar with it. I pulled out my old Canon t2i and found that it will only let you change the metering mode when in one of the picture taking modes. I use Sony now, and it lets you change it in any mode. Maybe the 70D will only let you in a picture mode as well?
Does this only relate to using the view finder?
No, it's how the camera meters the light regardless of using the viewfinder or the monitor.
👍👍
Spark n Bounce 👍🏽
Great video! Liked!
I just got a follow focus rig and I went out early this evening to practice. I was about 30 feet below and away from the bridge, where I had two young ladies standing against the railing facing me. I had the early moon above and between them. Practicing focusing on them, then the moon, then them again, I couldn't get them light enough. (Canon 50D, 70-200mm f2.8, with Magic Lantern allowing me to shoot video on the 50D). I'm still new at this. I'm guessing I should have used spot metering on the girls? I had the lens wide open and 800 ISO. (shooting 1920x1080, 30fps). Can I spot meter on them (or one of them) while shooting the moon? Thanks again!
If you have it exposed for the moon, then they won't be light enough when you focus on them because the moon is so bright. But if you expose for them, then the moon is going to be way blown out and just look like a white dot with no detail. The only thing you can really do in that situation is get a light to put on the girls and make it bright enough that they are exposed to the same brightness of the moon.
@@CamberFilmSchool Thanks so much for the quick reply and a great answer!
You're welcome, Chaz!
nice teeth, nice vid, thanks mate!
😂Thanks, DAWU!
I am the "Meter"" -
not the "Camera"
the speed of ACTION
is decisive
to capture THIS Moment
no matter
how BAD the picture is...
Ok??…🤷♂️