I really had to laugh, I just got back from an all-day shooting at a castle with lots of lights and darks. When I got home I was so upset that the pictures did not turn out the way I wanted. You just explained every scenario that I faced and what I had done wrong!!! YOU HAVE MY ATTENTION!!! And just to prove the commitment I bought all your ebooks and will get involved with your group. I am a Nikon shooter D5600 and been at it for about two years. Most things I have had good success with but this last go-round was a disaster! I shoot in Raw and JPEG so I did manage to fix some of it in post. I am much better in post than I am in photography. Thank you much for your videos and help, you are very well respected in the photographic industry. I need to get on your star and figure out all I can!!! Thank you, Steve Moonpie
There is no greater educator in photography than Steve. Deep understanding with an ability to explain simply is a gift. Keep up the awesome work please Steve.
Love your content Steve. RUclips photography seems to be getting more and more click bait. Your channel is the exception. You've taught me a lot and I appreciate the hard work you put in. Thank you.
Between you and Chas Goatzer videos I have learned so much more than the attended workshops with " professional photographers". Thank you so much, the frustration just melts away as the " ah-ha" clicks in.
Love this channel it’s been helping me a lot since my mentor passed away a few years ago . He got me started in photography. Today I will try portraits since I usually do birds . Rip William P Bergen
This video opened my eyes on how important it is to spot meter before you take a shot. It helps achive best colors and contrast correctly. I think this is one of the main reasons my images were always off and I wasnt happy with colors and contrast. Grey card or an expodisc is a must have to get perfect exposure and colors.
Many photographers especially those new to photography don't realise that the cameras meter is trying to make images middle grey, herein lies the problem! Underexposing when shooting a white subject gives huge amounts of noise if you think you can just up the exposure in processing !!! Great video Steve! Cheers
And the problem is that it's counter-intuitive too. When people are faced with a bright lighter-than-middle-tone scene (like a snow scene), they think they need less exposure because it's so bright. So, they're often REALLY confused when it's 2 stops under!
@@backcountrygallery Aah the thing is I've been a photographer for over 30 years and I have the hindsight of reading your books which explain so many aspects of photography wonderfully well! Cheers and thanks for the response Steve.
Hi Steve, so glad you are telling people about this, especially about placing the meter in the right place in manual mode rather than just in the middle as most other videos do! A quick tip for your followers to get their eye in for estimating tone value is to put it in manual mode, point at a known value area ( grass at midtone) move settings until the meter is in the middle THEN move the camera to different areas & watch the meter. The meter will tell you the tone value of the new area.👍
Thanks, Steve! Most of my progress the past two years can be attributed to your books and videos. No other single source has contributed so much to my knowledge base.
Thanks Steve. Your videos are my "go to" for concise, accurate, and entertaining information. I bought all of your ebooks which are awesome and filled with great content. Thank you for sharing your talents! p.s. - and yes I was one of the photographers that didn't give metering too much thought...sadly.
Most of the time, I use the A mode and matrix metering on my D750 (and compensate if needed), but in more difficult situations I switch to the manual mode and spot metering. And now, after watching your video, I checked that my palm gives exactly the same reading as the middle grey square on the Xrite Colorchecker (the one under the yellow square). :) Thank you a million!!!
Cheers Steve, being a motorsports photographer, I find spot metering to come in handy at times, but also messes up a shot when the subject is either white or black. I will try locking the metering on a "grey" area next time. My function button is set to spot metering on both cameras (D4 / D4s) , its nice to see someone else using that shortcut.
I can't thank you enough Steve, never has any tutorial been so clear. I just bought two of your books to better understand my D850 as I venture into wedding photography. Thank you, thank you, thank you
This was a great education on tricking the meter. you are correct Steve, many people depend on the camera and know nothing about tricking or overriding the meter. Thanks for your time and work. Best teacher out there.
One of the challenges that I face is to deal with contrasty birds in strong sun, their tonal range. There's a surprising number of pied species in my country and avoiding blowing out the whites is essential. My rule of thumb is +2 EV on the D500 and +1.5 on the A1 but often that has to be increased. Then of course what you can do in post with the tone curve will make or break the image, trying to get plumage texture in both the whites and the blacks.
I had to replay the section where you cropped the target area from the three photos to convince myself you had not just pulled a trick on us. The targets look very different from each other in the original photos, but i guess that's just an optical illusion. That was a great demonstration!
I actually thought about just putting the pics side by side, but like you say, optically it doesn't look like they are the same. I was even questing it myself when looking at the pics!! That's why I popped them and did it the way I did :)
@@backcountrygallery yeah i figured you went thru that process. I would have liked to see both approaches, but certainly understand and respect your editorial choices. Can't include everything!
Brilliant Steve , every video of your is an educational content. Full of information.Totally absorbing and with clarity I come out with every video. Thank you again.👍
This was really good STEVE! Some things I’ve realized all along but never used, some new things that I will use, and all-around good information that I need to know. Then shooting for many years I just thought spot metering was spot metering, LOL
Steve, with your complexion (not too pale white), spot meter your skin and compare with your grey card. Also spot meter the inside of your hand. If you want to use the TTL spot meter as a surrogate lightmeter then this works very well.
Very good. Just about everyone does not know what the meter does. I first learned about metering from studying books about Ansel Adams. He used a spot meter and meters off middle gray. When I started, the general rule was to meter off grass in the same light as your subject.
I have been practicing Photography for 5 years now. In as many instructions or tutorials I have had this is by fat the best Spot metering tutorial I have. Explained very nicely. Thank you Steve
First video from Steve I have watched in a while (have not been feeling really creative) - FIRST TIME you have not cost me money by showing me something I just cannot live without! Thanks for all you do for the photography community - please keep it up!
Love this video! Great work! that so well explains why when I spot meter a dark object, its overexposed AND you told me how to fix this. thank you so much Steve! Great video!!!...Bob
The Fuji systems (newer X-series and GFX cameras), when set to face-detect, always use the spot-metering of the skin tone as the middle grey… exposure compensation from that point solves any issues… so face-detect on Fuji, is like instant-spot-metering, while any other subject will respect the metering mode you’ve selected.
Excellent piece of teaching Steeve! The video explains the content right to the points without making too much unwanted lecturers as often seen in other you tube videos. Thank you so very much for the wonderful presentation...
Steven this was just the best piece on metering. Also I think by you shooting multiple camera brands now you have opened up a whole new area of field tested comparison content which would be so helpful as well to those selecting gear. Much appreciated and thank you.
Hi Steve, good content I enjoy your videos. This is something I've known for 30 years because I took pictures before spot metering existed when you actually had to know what exposure meant and before post processing could save you. In fact, Birds As Art photographer Arthur Morris created a pocket guide showing how to adjust exposure base on various scenes.
Good video that got me thinking. My Canon R5 seems to a lot of the exposure work for me. There are average , partial and spot modes. All three seem to combined in evaluative (as are the icons). Evaluative does change exposure as the focus area moves, so it seems to be compensating as you go. You can of course override the compensation easily.
Thank you Steve for another helpful video (now it comes to practice 😄). I had attempted some bird in flight action shots, used aperture priority and just under F11 and found that even the focus box was on the bird properly it was not in focus and I had a bad sleep about it, searching for bigger better more expensive lenses right after that but the 55-300mm lens takes nice stills and portraits otherwise so I backed off on getting another mortgage for a massive stargazer type lens ;) and went searching for the Steve Perry channel to help me out of my misery thoughts. I missed out on remembering the great ISO video available and hence with the camera not getting to it's proper shutter speed it produced what I deserved with my first bird action shooting session so ... I will revisit that and make sure that the rest of the camera's action shooting settings are activated as well. Thanks again for your great helpful videos, really enjoy the teachings.
Wow Steve!! Man you never cease to amaze me with how you explain things. I have actually been experimenting with my metering modes over the last 2 weeks and was still unsure how it worked. Thanks so much for the clarification.
Very good explanation. In the film days I used spot metering and interpreted the reading and compensated my settings according to subject reflectance. It was accurate once I learn how much compensation to give the item I took the reading off. Like so many things photographic experience goes a long way. What is important is to recognize when we make a mistake and what we need to do so we don't repeat the mistake.
very good lesson even for an experienced photographers to remind all about spot metering . I use Pentax K20 with prism not mirrors viewfinder system so Pentax spot metering is same like professional hand light meter . it is good to have support classic hend light matter
hi, perfect, creates awareness. needs to be studied again and again. Absolutely you are a good teacher. I wiss you could analyze the Panasonic system. I am using a G9. best.
at approx. 2:35 of the video you show a bird example & discuss what happens when the metering spot size is larger than the focus point. In your bird example, clearly an objective was to focus on the birds eye but as you stated, because the metering spot area (which was linked to the focus point) was larger than the focus point, the metering will take into account the dark areas and over expose the image. My issue is that this is likely a fast moving subject so I would want to quickly move the focus point to the eye and take the picture. I likely would not know exactly what exposure compensation to dial in. I could guess but it sounds like you may have a better method for making the right adjustment & I would like to hear your thought process & how you would adjust, please...
thanks , explained well today when i used the spot metering on a landscape the background sun got over exposed almost to white, but matrix got it right .
Again Steve, thank you for explaining in such details. So easy to follow you. I understand far more now and itching to try this. I will practise for sure.
Thanks for this easy understanding of of potentially difficult to understand subject It shows the great advantage of cameras using an EVF have, by being able to see and correct the exposure issues before taking the shot
Super appreciate this video. It's good to know how to maximize as many features as a camera provides to get you the best photos and suit your style as a shooter. That being said, particularly when it comes to wildlife (not a pro wildlife photographer at all!), I would think shooting full manual exposure would be preferable, and using the histogram or zebras as aids. Since adjusting the spot metering settings could potentially take as long as manually adjusting shutter/aperture/iso anyway. What is everyone else's opinion?
yes, this is absolutely incredible, thank you so much p.s. my goal was to try and make my onboard meter follow my focus point, but I learned so much more that I didn't even know I needed to learn
This is just what I needed..very informative! And just what I need as I am photographing some black and white rabbits in a low light room 😁I will be trying all your tips ..thank you Steve 😎
great video, the spot meter test with strong light is a good one, i usually use spot with exposure comp with the histogram in the evf (canon M50) still learning but getting really good wildlife pics at 400 and 800mm. still not done a fully controlled test on all the meter types, will do soon
I use center weighted average and shoot in manual. I adjust settings takin into account what the metering sees, and bam! But this is just my style, I guess.
Great video! It is my understanding that you should "always meter for the highlights" then bring up the dark areas (the subject) in post. Your examples suggest metering for the subject regardless. So how do you meter, say, a darker face with a bright sunny background? Thx
If I understood you correctly, the focus point and the metering spot are typically linked together (my camera is a Nikon D7200). Maybe I missed it but I could use a little clarification on how to get the correct metering when focus & metering are tied together. So, if I focus on a dark subject, then I believe the net result will be that the picture will get over exposed and highlights will be blown out. Let's take the example of a landscape where you focus on distant trees and then the sky is blown out. I guess my question is how can I focus on the trees yet expose for the sky? How do you best separate the functionality? I typically have to take a test shot and then review the histogram and then depending on what I see in the histogram, I'll use some exposure compensation. That takes time. Is that what you do or is there some other easier way?
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
The garden is the dojo for learning how my camera functions before i take it to the streets!
That was the BEST spot metering tutorial I have ever seen. Outstanding!!
The demonstration finally made it click for me as to how spot metering works! Thanks for this informative video!
This has to be the easiest way to understand metering. Perfect video.
I really had to laugh, I just got back from an all-day shooting at a castle with lots of lights and darks. When I got home I was so upset that the pictures did not turn out the way I wanted. You just explained every scenario that I faced and what I had done wrong!!! YOU HAVE MY ATTENTION!!! And just to prove the commitment I bought all your ebooks and will get involved with your group. I am a Nikon shooter D5600 and been at it for about two years. Most things I have had good success with but this last go-round was a disaster! I shoot in Raw and JPEG so I did manage to fix some of it in post. I am much better in post than I am in photography. Thank you much for your videos and help, you are very well respected in the photographic industry. I need to get on your star and figure out all I can!!!
Thank you, Steve
Moonpie
There is no greater educator in photography than Steve. Deep understanding with an ability to explain simply is a gift. Keep up the awesome work please Steve.
Love your content Steve. RUclips photography seems to be getting more and more click bait. Your channel is the exception.
You've taught me a lot and I appreciate the hard work you put in. Thank you.
And also more and more about comparing equipment. I have unsubscribed from more than one "photography" channel as a result of all the gear obsessing.
Between you and Chas Goatzer videos I have learned so much more than the attended workshops with " professional photographers". Thank you so much, the frustration just melts away as the " ah-ha" clicks in.
This was a very very good video. There was no other video on youtube that could explain it so well
I'm so glad I found your videos. I'm about 6 months in with my first ever camera, and have learned very much from you already, Thank you!!!
Good instruction. When I did film photography I used spot metering almost exclusively. I rarely use it with digital but your content was right on.
Love this channel it’s been helping me a lot since my mentor passed away a few years ago . He got me started in photography. Today I will try portraits since I usually do birds . Rip William P Bergen
Yes. Outstanding. Ive used it (with Zone Metering) for decades and always struggled to explain it simply. This totally nails it.
Finally my exposure compensation button on my d750 got some meaning. Very well explained. Thank You.
I totally agree with the last comment. Clear, concise presentation, built on practical knowledge. Thank you!
This video opened my eyes on how important it is to spot meter before you take a shot. It helps achive best colors and contrast correctly.
I think this is one of the main reasons my images were always off and I wasnt happy with colors and contrast.
Grey card or an expodisc is a must have to get perfect exposure and colors.
You never cease to amaze me. You make me so damn jealous with your pics. Keep up the great work.
Many photographers especially those new to photography don't realise that the cameras meter is trying to make images middle grey, herein lies the problem! Underexposing when shooting a white subject gives huge amounts of noise if you think you can just up the exposure in processing !!! Great video Steve! Cheers
And the problem is that it's counter-intuitive too. When people are faced with a bright lighter-than-middle-tone scene (like a snow scene), they think they need less exposure because it's so bright. So, they're often REALLY confused when it's 2 stops under!
@@backcountrygallery Aah the thing is I've been a photographer for over 30 years and I have the hindsight of reading your books which explain so many aspects of photography wonderfully well! Cheers and thanks for the response Steve.
Hi Steve, so glad you are telling people about this, especially about placing the meter in the right place in manual mode rather than just in the middle as most other videos do! A quick tip for your followers to get their eye in for estimating tone value is to put it in manual mode, point at a known value area ( grass at midtone) move settings until the meter is in the middle THEN move the camera to different areas & watch the meter. The meter will tell you the tone value of the new area.👍
Thanks, Steve! Most of my progress the past two years can be attributed to your books and videos. No other single source has contributed so much to my knowledge base.
Melinda Adams me too. His videos and books are irreplaceable.
Now I understand what my problem was that my subjects were either over exposed or underexposed! Thanks
Steve, I just went through my d500 menu to play with the AE mode, but I could not find it! Is d500 including that option at all?
Something I rarely think about! But it’s great to get this refresher. Thanks Steve.
As usual, the best content and tips of photography! Keep it in that way ! Best regards from Argentina!
Thanks Steve. Your videos are my "go to" for concise, accurate, and entertaining information. I bought all of your ebooks which are awesome and filled with great content. Thank you for sharing your talents!
p.s. - and yes I was one of the photographers that didn't give metering too much thought...sadly.
Most of the time, I use the A mode and matrix metering on my D750 (and compensate if needed), but in more difficult situations I switch to the manual mode and spot metering. And now, after watching your video, I checked that my palm gives exactly the same reading as the middle grey square on the Xrite Colorchecker (the one under the yellow square). :) Thank you a million!!!
Cheers Steve, being a motorsports photographer, I find spot metering to come in handy at times, but also messes up a shot when the subject is either white or black. I will try locking the metering on a "grey" area next time. My function button is set to spot metering on both cameras (D4 / D4s) , its nice to see someone else using that shortcut.
I can't thank you enough Steve, never has any tutorial been so clear. I just bought two of your books to better understand my D850 as I venture into wedding photography. Thank you, thank you, thank you
Wow, thank you so much!
This was a great education on tricking the meter. you are correct Steve, many people depend on the camera and know nothing about tricking or overriding the meter. Thanks for your time and work. Best teacher out there.
Basic knowledge told and shown in the best way i´ve seen so far on the tube! I will link to this for my students and friends. Thanks Steve!
This is the million-dollar answer you have given..thx a lot sir
One of the challenges that I face is to deal with contrasty birds in strong sun, their tonal range. There's a surprising number of pied species in my country and avoiding blowing out the whites is essential. My rule of thumb is +2 EV on the D500 and +1.5 on the A1 but often that has to be increased. Then of course what you can do in post with the tone curve will make or break the image, trying to get plumage texture in both the whites and the blacks.
Your version of spot metering is the best and much simpler to understand even for a Filipino like me. LOL. I am your new subscriber. Thank you.
Great video. Years ago, I had a 5x7 field camera and a 1 degree spot meter. Slowing down helped me learn so much.
Not a Nikon shooter but this can be applied across the board, very well done, love it.
I had to replay the section where you cropped the target area from the three photos to convince myself you had not just pulled a trick on us. The targets look very different from each other in the original photos, but i guess that's just an optical illusion. That was a great demonstration!
I actually thought about just putting the pics side by side, but like you say, optically it doesn't look like they are the same. I was even questing it myself when looking at the pics!! That's why I popped them and did it the way I did :)
@@backcountrygallery yeah i figured you went thru that process. I would have liked to see both approaches, but certainly understand and respect your editorial choices. Can't include everything!
Brilliant Steve , every video of your is an educational content. Full of information.Totally absorbing and with clarity I come out with every video. Thank you again.👍
Exceptionally clear and sensible advice - your experience shows in every suggestion
I love your video the best, getting into the technical stuffs but explaining it in lay man's terms. Keep up the good work!
This was really good STEVE! Some things I’ve realized all along but never used, some new things that I will use, and all-around good information that I need to know. Then shooting for many years I just thought spot metering was spot metering, LOL
Steve, with your complexion (not too pale white), spot meter your skin and compare with your grey card. Also spot meter the inside of your hand. If you want to use the TTL spot meter as a surrogate lightmeter then this works very well.
I actually have a note in about that at one point in the video :)
Very good. Just about everyone does not know what the meter does. I first learned about metering from studying books about Ansel Adams. He used a spot meter and meters off middle gray. When I started, the general rule was to meter off grass in the same light as your subject.
I have been practicing Photography for 5 years now. In as many instructions or tutorials I have had this is by fat the best Spot metering tutorial I have. Explained very nicely. Thank you Steve
Thanks Steve... heard it all before, but it still is a bit confusing in the field.
It takes practice for sure, but it'll come to you.
Once again another great video and I am going to have to review it with camera in hand during daylight (4:00 a.m. now!) Thank you!
First video from Steve I have watched in a while (have not been feeling really creative) - FIRST TIME you have not cost me money by showing me something I just cannot live without! Thanks for all you do for the photography community - please keep it up!
You are awesome! Such depth of knowledge and so talented at explaining it in simple, relatable terms. Thank you!
Love this video! Great work! that so well explains why when I spot meter a dark object, its overexposed AND you told me how to fix this. thank you so much Steve! Great video!!!...Bob
The Fuji systems (newer X-series and GFX cameras), when set to face-detect, always use the spot-metering of the skin tone as the middle grey… exposure compensation from that point solves any issues… so face-detect on Fuji, is like instant-spot-metering, while any other subject will respect the metering mode you’ve selected.
Excellent piece of teaching Steeve! The video explains the content right to the points without making
too much unwanted lecturers as often seen in other you tube videos. Thank you so very much for the wonderful presentation...
Great tutorial Steve, you managed to give a presentation on the zone system without actually mentioning the zone system.👍🏼
Thanks :) I thought about mentioning it, but I wanted to keep the concepts simple.
Very clear explanation. Even I understood it straight away. Awesome.
Just watched this a second time and learned even more. Great video, wish I could like again. 8)
Fantastic tutorial, easy to understand for an amateur photographer, thank you.
Thanks Steve, great explanation of metering using the mid tone examples👌
This is brilliant so easy to follow and understand and yes I have been thinking wrong on spot metering .. many thanks Steve
This was mighty helpful Steve. Could not have been more clear and easy to understand!
Always a pleasure to watch your so instructive videos Steve ! Likes and subs 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Steven this was just the best piece on metering. Also I think by you shooting multiple camera brands now you have opened up a whole new area of field tested comparison content which would be so helpful as well to those selecting gear. Much appreciated and thank you.
Hi Steve, good content I enjoy your videos. This is something I've known for 30 years because I took pictures before spot metering existed when you actually had to know what exposure meant and before post processing could save you. In fact, Birds As Art photographer Arthur Morris created a pocket guide showing how to adjust exposure base on various scenes.
Good video that got me thinking. My Canon R5 seems to a lot of the exposure work for me. There are average , partial and spot modes. All three seem to combined in evaluative (as are the icons). Evaluative does change exposure as the focus area moves, so it seems to be compensating as you go. You can of course override the compensation easily.
Wow, this guide is amazing. Found your channel yesterday and this is the first thing that I get today? Yes please
Thank you Steve for another helpful video (now it comes to practice 😄). I had attempted some bird in flight action shots, used aperture priority and just under F11 and found that even the focus box was on the bird properly it was not in focus and I had a bad sleep about it, searching for bigger better more expensive lenses right after that but the 55-300mm lens takes nice stills and portraits otherwise so I backed off on getting another mortgage for a massive stargazer type lens ;) and went searching for the Steve Perry channel to help me out of my misery thoughts. I missed out on remembering the great ISO video available and hence with the camera not getting to it's proper shutter speed it produced what I deserved with my first bird action shooting session so ... I will revisit that and make sure that the rest of the camera's action shooting settings are activated as well. Thanks again for your great helpful videos, really enjoy the teachings.
Blinkies can help too of course. As per your video on that feature.
You are a gifted teacher! Thank you for all you do! Best explanation for exposure ever
Wow Steve!! Man you never cease to amaze me with how you explain things. I have actually been experimenting with my metering modes over the last 2 weeks and was still unsure how it worked. Thanks so much for the clarification.
Very good explanation. In the film days I used spot metering and interpreted the reading and compensated my settings according to subject reflectance. It was accurate once I learn how much compensation to give the item I took the reading off. Like so many things photographic experience goes a long way. What is important is to recognize when we make a mistake and what we need to do so we don't repeat the mistake.
Was watching another camera topic and this popped up... I said hmmm always wondered about spot metering... wow now I know! Thanks - great lesson!
very good lesson even for an experienced photographers to remind all about spot metering . I use Pentax K20 with prism not mirrors viewfinder system so Pentax spot metering is same like professional hand light meter . it is good to have support classic hend light matter
hi, perfect, creates awareness. needs to be studied again and again. Absolutely you are a good teacher. I wiss you could analyze the Panasonic system. I am using a G9. best.
That was the best explanation I have seen on this subject - thankyou!! :)
As usual, Steve clears things up! Perfect explanation and clear as always. Thanks for demystifying this!
at approx. 2:35 of the video you show a bird example & discuss what happens when the metering spot size is larger than the focus point. In your bird example, clearly an objective was to focus on the birds eye but as you stated, because the metering spot area (which was linked to the focus point) was larger than the focus point, the metering will take into account the dark areas and over expose the image. My issue is that this is likely a fast moving subject so I would want to quickly move the focus point to the eye and take the picture. I likely would not know exactly what exposure compensation to dial in. I could guess but it sounds like you may have a better method for making the right adjustment & I would like to hear your thought process & how you would adjust, please...
Your videos are informative and to the point. I will pick up your Nikon book.
Spot on ! Great explanation, clarified a lot of confusion, well done
thanks , explained well today when i used the spot metering on a landscape the background sun got over exposed almost to white, but matrix got it right .
Again Steve, thank you for explaining in such details. So easy to follow you. I understand far more now and itching to try this. I will practise for sure.
Thanks Steve... your tutorials are the best around. Straight to the point, detailed and with a brilliant way to explain it all.
It's already been said, but...best metering video ever
Thanks for this easy understanding of of potentially difficult to understand subject
It shows the great advantage of cameras using an EVF have, by being able to see and correct the exposure issues before taking the shot
i sure you are teacher the best to the camera nikon and your mind magical at a time, thanks so much to you mr steve perry about all your info
Finally i'm getting it
Slowly but surely
im getting it
Thank you
Thank you
Thank you
You are a great professional writer
This tip is absolutely a treasure for the photographers. I thank you Steve for explaining the Spot metering so nicely. 🙏
Cheers
Pardon the pun but your instructions are spot on! Great content, I'm now subscribed!
Absolutely love your explanation of finer aspects of spot metering, with great examples. Learnt a lot.
Love your tutorials, Steve!: clear, informative, and to the point. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Super appreciate this video. It's good to know how to maximize as many features as a camera provides to get you the best photos and suit your style as a shooter. That being said, particularly when it comes to wildlife (not a pro wildlife photographer at all!), I would think shooting full manual exposure would be preferable, and using the histogram or zebras as aids. Since adjusting the spot metering settings could potentially take as long as manually adjusting shutter/aperture/iso anyway. What is everyone else's opinion?
great video Steve
yes, this is absolutely incredible, thank you so much p.s. my goal was to try and make my onboard meter follow my focus point, but I learned so much more that I didn't even know I needed to learn
Thanks for the info on spot metering. Now I know how it works.
Thank you... Amazing... Easy to understand... best one I watched...
This is just what I needed..very informative! And just what I need as I am photographing some black and white rabbits in a low light room 😁I will be trying all your tips ..thank you Steve 😎
great video, the spot meter test with strong light is a good one, i usually use spot with exposure comp with the histogram in the evf (canon M50)
still learning but getting really good wildlife pics at 400 and 800mm.
still not done a fully controlled test on all the meter types, will do soon
Enjoyed your metering video and have always appreciated your book on the subject.
Very clear explanation. Extremely pretty photos 🙋🏻♂️
I use center weighted average and shoot in manual. I adjust settings takin into account what the metering sees, and bam! But this is just my style, I guess.
Great video! It is my understanding that you should "always meter for the highlights" then bring up the dark areas (the subject) in post. Your examples suggest metering for the subject regardless. So how do you meter, say, a darker face with a bright sunny background? Thx
Very informative and in a clear, concise manner. Thank you sir. Subscribed and looking forward to more great and informative videos.
If I understood you correctly, the focus point and the metering spot are typically linked together (my camera is a Nikon D7200). Maybe I missed it but I could use a little clarification on how to get the correct metering when focus & metering are tied together. So, if I focus on a dark subject, then I believe the net result will be that the picture will get over exposed and highlights will be blown out. Let's take the example of a landscape where you focus on distant trees and then the sky is blown out. I guess my question is how can I focus on the trees yet expose for the sky? How do you best separate the functionality? I typically have to take a test shot and then review the histogram and then depending on what I see in the histogram, I'll use some exposure compensation. That takes time. Is that what you do or is there some other easier way?
Thank you, I made notes thoroughly.