What was the issue before change a kit? I have 2008 sprinter Have a problem When I completely stop vehicle in D mode And want to accelerate, it won’t accelerate until engine gets 1800 rpm, than it goes as usual Any pressure on a gas doesn’t change nothing
With a low or high boost error code, I removed my actuator and added a small drop of solder on every main connection, I heard vibrations can cause them to become brittle. So far so good, codes are gone, thank you for the video
In Vancouver, BC, we cannot order this part so I had to get it repaired. Its day 5 and so far so good it seems resolved. BETTER than resolved. Back when it was 'normal'', on a cold start before engine was warmed up it would hesitate a little. I always thought it was just a cold engine, the repaired actuator does not do this, the hesitation is gone. The other thing I notriced is when I take foor of accelerator and tough the brake then go back to accelerator, there was a clunk which I assume was a transaxle issue. Thats gone too, the old actuator must have twitched sending a surge of power. Overall the vehicle is smoother now, I always track my fuel consumption so will ahve to see if its improved where historically it was getting on avg 12-13L/100k in the city.
I would try resetting the battery/ecu and seeing if something else has caused it to be in limp mode, but With it not moving at start up, I’d believe it may have failed.
@@DabSedan Hi, I know it pass three months already since this comment was done. 1- Did you was able to find why your actuator wasn’t working? Yo can diagnose it disconnecting the connector and tap first pin with the positive of you battery and the second pin with the negative. Then the fourth pin, get one more negative and apply slightly tap like morse codes. This will make the actuator moves back and forth. If only moves when you connect the first two pins and not when you tap the fourth one, the actuator is working good but you aren’t taping the last one right.
Hey, as I know if its not the break from black cover(electronic control) most time, the problem caused by the worm gear, or motor. The slight movement of the worm gear in your video seem is normal working condition. Have you finally locate the problem?
Kremer sino I replaced the actuator since I was unable to source just the rebuild kit without a 45+ day waiting time. It’s been great since! I have kept this actuator for a future further in depth diagnosis and repair video though!
Thank you for the video, great to see your so active with the comments and questions too! One more for the list from me... im about to do this myself and that small C clip has me worried, is it easy enough to remove without losing it?
Did the engine make a hissing noise before you fixed it? I have a wk diesel and its showing the p0299 code so i think this is the issue. Its also clunky upon slow acceleration.
@@jaredballard7853 I work on some sprinters at work. They are rare in my area so I don't get enough of them. I have seen these vans missing orings in the cac tubes causing boost leak. I have seen more hissing leaks when the gaskets blowout between the exhaust manifold and turbo ypipe. It is hard to see. I have someone rev it as hard as possible in gear, holding brakes while i feel down there, laying on the engine with my arm jammed down the firewall. These vans also leak at the egr. A plugged scr can cause leaks at the flexpipe. If you have a leak at the flex pipe, cut it off and look into the scr/cat to see if the cores came apart. If the scr is fucked you will see loose cubes, in this case the flex blew because of blockage in scr. You have many points of failure. Check for soot stains everywhere in the exhaust, leaky sensors, if you smell exhaust in the cab it is probably infront of the firewall.
@@anthonyrybczynski5420 Hi I do have and under boost turbo with code P0299 on my 2007 dodge sprinter 2500. Initially it was a crack on the exhaust flex pipe right after the DPF and get fixed. Before it get fixed the turbo was working good and after that I noticed a hissing noise during acceleration “ it was a constant hissing “ I get under the van I look for leaks and everything is ok. I pressurized the turbo at 10, 20 and 30 psi with smoke and find out a loose connection between the resonator and the metal down pipe . I fixed that connection and check for any leaks with pressurized smoke and everything looks good. No leaks. Also I pressurized the exhaust pipe and just find I tinny leak on one of the exhaust connections, witch I think is normal on exhaust pipes. Unfortunately I’m still have the engine working under boost. I can hear the turbo but not at 100%. After the air leak get fixed, I started noticed that if I’m on the freeway with a poor turbo as I mentioned before, it can stay like the for a about 15 to 30 min. And just at the time I reduce speed to get off of freeway it comes to limp mode with the same under boost code. The turbo works perfect. I disconnected the lever from the actuator and have a guy accelerating and it works perfect. When is connected to the actuator I have noticed the never travel all the way down it only moves from the middle to up. It seams like something else is telling not to go down when the acceleration is applied. Any idea? Any idea what else to
Hey what was the problem? I have a Vito 2007 with the same v6 3.0 cdi and mechanic tells me to change this Turbo actuator. The problem is the engine sometimes works well and 1 minute later it hasn't got any power we changed all the sensors(map, maf, turbo pressure) because the computer write these for problem but they are brand new and all the cables are in good condition. What do you think it will solve may problem?
Kristóf Kovács I’m not sure what’s necessarily wrong with your actuator without testing it, however replacing the actuator sounds like it will solve your problem as it has solved my problem and many others!
Nice video you said you will link the where I can get actuator for 2008. I called few places they said I need to buy whole thing with turbo. So please let me know where I can buy actuator itself. Thanks
I don’t have a direct link for an oem complete actuator unfortunately. I’ve only been able to find remanufactured units as well as oem rebuild kits from hella, but they are only available overseas. You can find an aftermarket one on eBay and potentially amazon and other sites if you search around. There are a couple different versions/numbers so I’d hate to link you to the wrong one! Best of luck with your search!
I’m told that is from the pcv valve. I’m actually going to take it all apart again and see if that fixed it! Been issue free for a long time now thankfully!
Hi Sir , I have a question to ask you , Mercedes 320 the engine is OM642 ,the turbo OE number is 765155-5007s , the original electronic actuator is broken ,we buy a new one ,but it's not original ,when you put it on the turbo ,we got this Y77-1 signal wire open circuit,(report that the actuator has fault codes stored Y77-1 signal wire open circuit)Do you know why ? Have you encountered the same problem before. we tested the electronic actuator separately ,It's normal ,why...... Please help me ,Thanks .
Great video. Quick question: what are the symptoms of a bad actuator. Although the battery is brand new, the first start of the engine always takes longer (especially if not driven for a few days); lately, I can't rev the engine over 3RMP (which makes her very slow to get up to speed). Do you think that this may be the root of the problem? Thank you for your time.
It could be this for sure. Unfortunately there are several systems that play into it so I can’t say for sure, but with those symptoms, it absolutely could be this as I experienced similar ones leading up to this
Jimmy Lopes Photography as long as the part number is the same as the one you remove, you should be good. At least for myself and others that has been the case! Let me know how it goes!
I was told "I would highly recommend to replace the entire turbo. If you just replace the actuator you risk the chance of the calibration being off and ending up with the same concern. The actuators are calibrated when installed on the turbo at the factory, if you just replace the actuator, it may end up being out of calibration when you are done, and there is no way to calibrate it in the field so you may end up needing to replace the turbo anyways after all this and it will end up costing you more in the long run..."
I was told the same but my vans been working awesome since thankfully. It was worth the risk vs the $3000 turbo play hardware and way more frustrating labor
Jason Palibroda my sprinter has had a new engine installed before we purchased it. The new complete engine has around 150k on it. The repair solved the issue for sure, although I do have an update video that I am currently working on and will be releasing soon.
Thanks for this. Were you able to get a service manual for the vehicle? Online? Free? Cheap? Where? :-) Seems you had to guess a bit here and there... ...I'd prefer to know beforehand what I'm up against - both tools-wise and ease-or-not-of-access-wise :-/ Cheers! :-)
I had no luck with any service manual unfortunately. I liked to show the guessing here and there to hopefully inspire confidence. Is there anything specific you were looking for? I have several links to things I’ve saved over the years but If I can help in any other way, please let me know!
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Just grabbed an $80 replacement off of Amazon and swapped it thanks to your video. Running like new again!
What was the issue before change a kit?
I have 2008 sprinter
Have a problem
When I completely stop vehicle in D mode
And want to accelerate, it won’t accelerate until engine gets 1800 rpm, than it goes as usual
Any pressure on a gas doesn’t change nothing
One of the most clearly explained repair videos out there. Thank you.
With a low or high boost error code, I removed my actuator and added a small drop of solder on every main connection, I heard vibrations can cause them to become brittle. So far so good, codes are gone, thank you for the video
Emile Goguely very glad to hear you’ve had success!
In Vancouver, BC, we cannot order this part so I had to get it repaired. Its day 5 and so far so good it seems resolved. BETTER than resolved. Back when it was 'normal'', on a cold start before engine was warmed up it would hesitate a little. I always thought it was just a cold engine, the repaired actuator does not do this, the hesitation is gone. The other thing I notriced is when I take foor of accelerator and tough the brake then go back to accelerator, there was a clunk which I assume was a transaxle issue. Thats gone too, the old actuator must have twitched sending a surge of power. Overall the vehicle is smoother now, I always track my fuel consumption so will ahve to see if its improved where historically it was getting on avg 12-13L/100k in the city.
Jason Palibroda that’s awesome to hear!!! I’m glad it solved your issue!!
where did you get it repaired?
My actuator lever is not seized but does not move with ignition on and revving the engine. Would you suspect the electric unit needs repairing?
I would try resetting the battery/ecu and seeing if something else has caused it to be in limp mode, but With it not moving at start up, I’d believe it may have failed.
@@DabSedan Hi, I know it pass three months already since this comment was done.
1- Did you was able to find why your actuator wasn’t working? Yo can diagnose it disconnecting the connector and tap first pin with the positive of you battery and the second pin with the negative. Then the fourth pin, get one more negative and apply slightly tap like morse codes. This will make the actuator moves back and forth. If only moves when you connect the first two pins and not when you tap the fourth one, the actuator is working good but you aren’t taping the last one right.
Hey, as I know if its not the break from black cover(electronic control) most time, the problem caused by the worm gear, or motor. The slight movement of the worm gear in your video seem is normal working condition. Have you finally locate the problem?
Kremer sino I replaced the actuator since I was unable to source just the rebuild kit without a 45+ day waiting time. It’s been great since! I have kept this actuator for a future further in depth diagnosis and repair video though!
@@DabSedan Yee, that's a good idea. Now we also repair those turbochargers in China
Thank you for the video, great to see your so active with the comments and questions too! One more for the list from me... im about to do this myself and that small C clip has me worried, is it easy enough to remove without losing it?
Did the engine make a hissing noise before you fixed it? I have a wk diesel and its showing the p0299 code so i think this is the issue. Its also clunky upon slow acceleration.
Jared Ballard that hissing noise to me would indicate a potential boost leak? Have you checked the inter cooler hoses?
I looked at the inner cooler hoses but could not find any leaks
Hmm. I’m not sure. Is the hissing only under load/in boost?
@@jaredballard7853 I work on some sprinters at work. They are rare in my area so I don't get enough of them. I have seen these vans missing orings in the cac tubes causing boost leak. I have seen more hissing leaks when the gaskets blowout between the exhaust manifold and turbo ypipe. It is hard to see. I have someone rev it as hard as possible in gear, holding brakes while i feel down there, laying on the engine with my arm jammed down the firewall. These vans also leak at the egr. A plugged scr can cause leaks at the flexpipe. If you have a leak at the flex pipe, cut it off and look into the scr/cat to see if the cores came apart. If the scr is fucked you will see loose cubes, in this case the flex blew because of blockage in scr. You have many points of failure. Check for soot stains everywhere in the exhaust, leaky sensors, if you smell exhaust in the cab it is probably infront of the firewall.
@@anthonyrybczynski5420 Hi I do have and under boost turbo with code P0299 on my 2007 dodge sprinter 2500. Initially it was a crack on the exhaust flex pipe right after the DPF and get fixed. Before it get fixed the turbo was working good and after that I noticed a hissing noise during acceleration “ it was a constant hissing “ I get under the van I look for leaks and everything is ok. I pressurized the turbo at 10, 20 and 30 psi with smoke and find out a loose connection between the resonator and the metal down pipe . I fixed that connection and check for any leaks with pressurized smoke and everything looks good. No leaks. Also I pressurized the exhaust pipe and just find I tinny leak on one of the exhaust connections, witch I think is normal on exhaust pipes.
Unfortunately I’m still have the engine working under boost. I can hear the turbo but not at 100%. After the air leak get fixed, I started noticed that if I’m on the freeway with a poor turbo as I mentioned before, it can stay like the for a about 15 to 30 min. And just at the time I reduce speed to get off of freeway it comes to limp mode with the same under boost code.
The turbo works perfect. I disconnected the lever from the actuator and have a guy accelerating and it works perfect. When is connected to the actuator I have noticed the never travel all the way down it only moves from the middle to up. It seams like something else is telling not to go down when the acceleration is applied.
Any idea?
Any idea what else to
Hey what was the problem? I have a Vito 2007 with the same v6 3.0 cdi and mechanic tells me to change this Turbo actuator. The problem is the engine sometimes works well and 1 minute later it hasn't got any power we changed all the sensors(map, maf, turbo pressure) because the computer write these for problem but they are brand new and all the cables are in good condition. What do you think it will solve may problem?
Kristóf Kovács I’m not sure what’s necessarily wrong with your actuator without testing it, however replacing the actuator sounds like it will solve your problem as it has solved my problem and many others!
Thank you!
hi,could you please tell me if this actuator may cause the turbo to make whooshing noise when is faulty?
I have sprinter 315 2007 and there is no actuator at all wonder what have happened and why it's been removed. Van working good
A N is yours a turbo Diesel engine?
The 2.2 wasn’t offered in America as far as I’ve seen. What symptoms/issues are you having? I will see what I can do to help!
@@DabSedan i dont have any issues just bought van and noticed actuator is not there.
Yours might be the vacuum type actuator. MUCH SIMPLER.
@@shifty2755 you are right it is a vacum control type
Nice video you said you will link the where I can get actuator for 2008. I called few places they said I need to buy whole thing with turbo. So please let me know where I can buy actuator itself. Thanks
I don’t have a direct link for an oem complete actuator unfortunately. I’ve only been able to find remanufactured units as well as oem rebuild kits from hella, but they are only available overseas. You can find an aftermarket one on eBay and potentially amazon and other sites if you search around. There are a couple different versions/numbers so I’d hate to link you to the wrong one! Best of luck with your search!
Hi, do you know what the recirculation hose does as on my van for some reason it was disconnected?
Which recirc hose?
It's the hose as at 0:55
Is this why you had oil on your outer intercooler hose in your other video?
I’m told that is from the pcv valve. I’m actually going to take it all apart again and see if that fixed it! Been issue free for a long time now thankfully!
Great video. Just a question regarding the lube you apply to the actuator rod. Can I use silicone spray? What exactly did you use?
I have a problem the 519 turbocharger working what my seem to be the problem
Hi Sir ,
I have a question to ask you ,
Mercedes 320 the engine is OM642 ,the turbo OE number is 765155-5007s , the original electronic actuator is broken ,we buy a new one ,but it's not original ,when you put it on the turbo ,we got this Y77-1 signal wire open circuit,(report that the actuator has fault codes stored Y77-1 signal wire open circuit)Do you know why ? Have you encountered the same problem before. we tested the electronic actuator separately ,It's normal ,why...... Please help me ,Thanks .
王洋 what part number is the new actuator vs what part number was the one you took off?
@@DabSedan G-277 712120 6NW009420 this is the actuator number
@@DabSedan The original actuator number same with the new actuator.
Great video. Quick question: what are the symptoms of a bad actuator. Although the battery is brand new, the first start of the engine always takes longer (especially if not driven for a few days); lately, I can't rev the engine over 3RMP (which makes her very slow to get up to speed).
Do you think that this may be the root of the problem?
Thank you for your time.
It could be this for sure. Unfortunately there are several systems that play into it so I can’t say for sure, but with those symptoms, it absolutely could be this as I experienced similar ones leading up to this
Hey congrats on the ss feature man. Got my mag the other week.
xStr8UPDoPex thanks bro! Way hyped about it!!
was that the problem for you? i had even more play
Is there any issue if you replace the actuator with calibration with the turbo?
Jimmy Lopes Photography as long as the part number is the same as the one you remove, you should be good. At least for myself and others that has been the case! Let me know how it goes!
I was told "I would highly recommend to replace the entire turbo. If you just replace the actuator you risk the chance of the calibration being off and ending up with the same concern. The actuators are calibrated when installed on the turbo at the factory, if you just replace the actuator, it may end up being out of calibration when you are done, and there is no way to calibrate it in the field so you may end up needing to replace the turbo anyways after all this and it will end up costing you more in the long run..."
I was told the same but my vans been working awesome since thankfully. It was worth the risk vs the $3000 turbo play hardware and way more frustrating labor
Thank you for your advice
Jimmy Lopes Photography of course! Always here to help however I can!
I assume its still working for ya, just curious whats your odometer at?
Jason Palibroda my sprinter has had a new engine installed before we purchased it. The new complete engine has around 150k on it. The repair solved the issue for sure, although I do have an update video that I am currently working on and will be releasing soon.
@@DabSedan where's the video? What were the symptoms to think this was the cause. That looked like normal play to me
Thanks for this.
Were you able to get a service manual for the vehicle?
Online?
Free?
Cheap?
Where? :-)
Seems you had to guess a bit here and there...
...I'd prefer to know beforehand what I'm up against - both tools-wise and ease-or-not-of-access-wise :-/
Cheers!
:-)
I had no luck with any service manual unfortunately. I liked to show the guessing here and there to hopefully inspire confidence. Is there anything specific you were looking for? I have several links to things I’ve saved over the years but If I can help in any other way, please let me know!
Great video
I own you a beer mate, thanks!
Can you fix my
thank you.
Do not drop any of the bolts
Hi everyone I just take my sprinter to fix. Turbo Electric Actuator Fits for Dodge Sprinter 2500
they want me to pay $1351
Jayden Nguyen I hope this helps give you the confidence to repair it yourself!
@@DabSedan do you know any diagnostic tester that is easy to use ?
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