Carbide with mirror finish using diamond compound, less than $30 from Banggood
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2017
- In this video I need to adapt metal working carbide inserts to another application, With a diamond resin bond wheel I’ll modify the surface and finally, using THK diamond polishing compound ranging from 40 microns down to 0.25 microns, in 13 steps sold in 2 sets. Using some aluminum plates as substrate to allow the grit to embedd itself in I’ll bring the surface finish of the carbide inserts to a mirror finish.
This isn’t meant to be a laboratory results with perfect parameters as the work is done in a small machine shop located in my garage, for the intended use, the results are excellent, the price of the kits is way less than $20USD making it affordable for limited quantities and small budget.
In short, the product is doing what it’s supposed to do for a great price, better and more controlled product exist, but, the cost is very much higher.
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References to Banggood web trading site...
You can get all the details to order the tools tested in this video by following the links below...
Note: According to dates, sales or promotions the price may vary, but, the prices will stay more than reasonable in any circumstances…
7pcs 5g Diamond Polishing Paste Lapping Compound Mold Polishing Tool
goo.gl/aSfnTK
7pcs Diamond Polishing Paste Lapping Compound Mold Polishing Tool
goo.gl/2wZCys
100mm Diamond Grinding Wheel Cup 180 Grit Cutter Grinder for Carbide Metal
goo.gl/bRUKa4
75mm 180 Grit Diamond Grinding Wheel Cup Grinder Milling for Carbide Metal
goo.gl/QLwVvh
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Thank you for viewing...
Hope you enjoyed and please leave a comment, like and subscribe
Pierre Beaudry
wledpierre@gmail.com 
Хобби
====================================================
References to Banggood web trading site...
You can get all the details to order the tools tested in this video by following the links below...
Note: According to dates, sales or promotions the price may vary, but, the prices will stay more than reasonable in any circumstances…
7pcs 5g Diamond Polishing Paste Lapping Compound Mold Polishing Tool
goo.gl/aSfnTK
7pcs Diamond Polishing Paste Lapping Compound Mold Polishing Tool
goo.gl/2wZCys
100mm Diamond Grinding Wheel Cup 180 Grit Cutter Grinder for Carbide Metal
goo.gl/bRUKa4
75mm 180 Grit Diamond Grinding Wheel Cup Grinder Milling for Carbide Metal
goo.gl/QLwVvh
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Pierre's Garage seasons greetings Pierre. I message you few months ago regarding how to achieve the mirror finish and you suggested I get some emery cloth and T metal. I want to polish an andis clipper blade. To enable the blade cut smoothly and shaper. I followed what you said and I messee it up 🤦🏾♂️. Do I polish the blade on the T metal or emery cloth? Please help me
One of my absolute favorite channels on RUclips. Thanks Pierre.
Wow, this is nice to read, thank you sincerely... ;)
Hi Pierre. Splendid video! Thanx for the information and advice.
Thanks for watching and taking time to comment, Pierre
This one VERY interesting and informative video!!! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
thanks for your comment....
Thank you I've learnt something.
This video helps me a lot, thank you man :)
Hi Michel :D, glad you got something that would help you...
Thanks for viewing and taking some time to comment, Pierre
I never gave much thought to the dirt cheap chinese goods, but seeing your results make me reconsider.
Great job!
When you get stuff like this yo got to be kinda picky and choose well before ordering, so far I'm quite satisfied with the products and the price I've paid, hope this continues in that direction, after all the Asian Countries know that if they want to sell overseas the quality got to be there... ;)
Nice finish Pierre! Enjoyed
ATB, Robin
I'm quite happy with the results, the inserts will be soon tested in woodworking application in order to find out if they could approach some well sharpened steel tooling... ;)
Why aren't you using the polished high positive rake carbide inserts for aluminum?
The front rake of this insert is pretty positive, like +/- 17 degrees, and, from an Al insert it would require removing quite more material from the top since the patern is much deeper, not certain how this will operate but there is surely gonna be room for suggestion after the first tests, possibly this week, if not, then next week...
Worked great.
I'm quite happy with the results, the inserts will be soon tested in woodworking application in order to find out if they could approach some well sharpened steel tooling... ;)
Wow, un vrais fini miroir, j'ai hâte de voir à quoi elle vont servit :)))
J'espère surtout que ça fera la job... ;)
Hello
Ibaught some diamond polishing paste and imaked 2 peaces of my inserts tool exactly like mirror (5 m and 3.5 m and 1 m) Iwill say ihad never seen like them in my life.the first thay are very very sharp and thay are good for finishing tools because thay cuts like mirror.
Ihave one frend that he is professional machinists and he told me you will make damaged Geometry but ibelive you 100% and idid now I’m very very happy white them also my machinist frend will do also 😁😁😁✌️
Thank you very much for your nice and helpful experience.
Like always only isee on your channel when igot some problems in my job.
Best regards
Sina von Austria ❤️❤️❤️
Thanks for your nice comment... 🙂
The mirror finish on the inserts were meant to be used on wood turning tools, since wood is softer than steel or just any metal the edge would last quite some time. Using that geometry on hard materials may result on the edge that won't last as long if driven hard.
That doesn't stop you from experimenting different edges or angles.... 🙂
@@pierresgarage2687 hello.
Ididnt make all exactly flat.only sharped the top just alitle so geometry is in the plas and isn’t damaged.
Also Iwill use of them as finishing tools.
You are right.
I Wish for you biutifull Christmas 🎄
Best regards sina
Von Österreich 🇦🇹
Happy and mostly healthy Holidays to you and loved ones...
For getting machined acrylic to prism flatness and transparency: sanding series to 2000 or higher grit, use headlight restorer polish on a piece of painter's tape on flat glass for lapping, it works well so long as its damp but not wet. Will work best on parts of large surface area with no ground face dimension below 10-15mm and good rigidity.
There is a company called Micromesh, if I'm right... They make some restoration products for the Lexan industry, like helicopter or airplane windows, those products would be something like you describe up there, you can get some sanding cloths and polishing compounds all meant for plastics, not suitable for metals, though.
If you need to polish metals you need much harder abrasives, when you get to carbide, the only product left is diamond...
Thanks for watching and for comment, Pierrre
Me like shiny. Interesting, thanks for the video.
Everything that shines isn't gold... ( Some old saying... )
Anxious to try the results on woodworking project in colaboration with another video producer, thing to look forward...
Cheers, Pierre
I have been using that diamond paste for a while. It is excellent. I often use it on plywood. Diluting with wd40 is a good tip!
Hi John, WD-40 or anything that sort will ennable the part and the substrate to really get close as the only thing in between is the diamond particule imbedded in the Aluminium plate, this is where you get the most efficiency...
Right about the price vs quality, there is better paste but the price is way out of proportion, this is more than we can appreciate in a hobby or small machine shop... ;)
Thank you so much for your video! Well done! One question: I'm looking to purchase aluminum lapping plates like yours. I've found different options: "hard" aluminum" (7075) or CNC aluminum (EN AW 5083, AlMg4,5Mn) and another (AlMg3 / AW-5754). All are 100x100x10 mm and milled flat. The prices vary somewhat. Does it really matter what type of aluminum it is, or is it only important that it be fairly thick and the surface flat?
Thanks for your comment. Just about anything softer than what you need to lap will do, it just need to be as flat as possible. Important to avoid cross contamination of the different grits to minimize scratches on finer grits...
Got a lap kit from ebay some time ago - different one but lot of different grades of particle. Also got a 4" wheel - have yet to try with mods on any inserts.
Seems to work well your lapping though, not sure why you decided to do it!
If you got a good platform to hold your work the diamond wheel perform great...
The inserts will be soon tested in woodworking application in order to find out if they could approach some well sharpened steel tooling... ;)
So far the lapping pastes seem to operate great for a low cost... ;)
Did you polish the aluminium plate yourself?
I am a metal engraver and use carbide chisels. Can this paste be used to polish and sharpen my chisels? what is a good choice diamond paste or iron powder?
Have you compared this with western (US, Swiss, Italy, Germany) diamond compounds?
From what I have read, the company denies that there is any kerosene in WD-40. That was a great finish on that insert.
Oups...!!!! another "Fake News"...???
Not sure how serious this can be taken but it sounds close enough to be considered:
www.wired.com/2009/04/st-whatsinside-6/
After reading this I'm not so sure we should breath some heated up vapors from this product...!!!
Old Cast Iron, (but not too beat up) Surface plates are good , CI is porous, and holds a Diamond charge wet or dry very well...(you can dry charge with a roller bearing and powder),.....on the initial grind, use a medium maxrix, at most,......anything course can fracture carbide....Also, for you AL plates, you can get a good flat surface, before Diamond charging with fine Garnet, of a fine valve lapping compound..cool video , Thx you...
Right about cast iron, new it's really expensive, best is to get our hands on old machine parts for close to scrap price, then, machine it flat if needed.
Aluminium works quite well also and thanks for the advice about very coarse grits and carbide fracture, as carbide is real tough, but, there are some specific limitations... 😊😊
Hello again and thank you for your helpful videos.
Ihave one question:
Which matrial is good for lapping plate?the plates that you already use are aluminium?
Best regards sina
From Austria 🇦🇹
The laping plates have to be softer than the material you want to polish, the reason is that the diamonds will imbed themselves in the softer material, you can yse also copper that is little harder than Aluminium.
Thanks for your comment... 🙂🙂
@@pierresgarage2687 thanks for your response.
Like always I only see and learn of your experience that you share white us.
Best regards sina ❤️❤️
I like shiny!
Get your floor just like that, don't forget to get a good pair of shades, or, wear your welding helmit... lol
Those are to be tested against some steel tooling in woodworking field with another video creator...
Great video! I bough these diamond compouds (from 7microns to 0.5microns) specially to try to remove scratches from watches, smartphone screens and glasses. Have you tried polishing glass? Hope it works!
It should work, but be aware that make a perfect job you need to remove ALL material down to the bottom of the scratch, the amount of work will depend on the depth of the scratches, be very meticulous on the cross contamination of the various grades.
@@pierresgarage2687 Thank's for your reply and tips. I'll be aware of that.
Hi Pierre! I'm back to give you a feedback. It worked with glass (gorilla glass 4). I used 3.5, 1.5 (picture 2) and 0.5 (picture 3). I think 0.25 would be better for a perfect finish, but I'm already satisfied. Cheers!!! photos.app.goo.gl/Ernjs33uk6LibQzJ6
Hi Pierre, I noticed through the proces, that the tips where not so shiny, could it have been because you mounted the insert horizontal for the initial grind,(the grinding wheel cuts better the narrow start of insert as opposed to the wider mid section) maby it was better to mount them verticaly, as usual a good old handgrinded thumbs up.
There is a little tweeking to be done, would have required a "little more" grind with the rough grit to get the far end of the tip, that will be done off camera with the withness insert, though... ;)
It would be interesting to know for what purpose you need this mirror finish. And if it is for cutting purpose why not mirror polish the sides of the inserts too to get an ultra-sharp edge? Will we learn about that in a later video?
The inserts will be soon tested in woodworking application in order to find out if they could approach some well sharpened steel tooling... ;)
Your concern about the edges is one of the options in line, we'll be doing more testing as the trial is going on, can't give any date on a future video since it's not been under way yet... ;)
Sounds interesting. I am looking forward to that. Another interesting parameter will be the best rake angle. In carbide circular saw blades for wood it is rather aggressive. In carbide router bits it is much less aggressive down to zero. In planer/jonter shafts it varies. Those with many carbide pieces have less aggressive rake angle and those with 2 or 3 carbide blades reaching across the whole shaft are more aggressive.
Im Missing the content Pierre, hope you decide to return soon. ATB. Steve
Hi Steve,
Really appreciate your comment, I'm considering to get back at producing more content in some undetermined future, can't promise it will happen or forecast any date. Now that COVID is on the decline, things are looking brighter.
I see that you're seriously improving your environment to better enjoy your time in the shop....
ATB, Pierre
@@pierresgarage2687 Yeah, the shop has improved over the last year and is now a pretty good place to work.
Would love to see some new content from you even if they are short and simple. Lots going on I know. Thanks for the reply.
Steve
I wonder if those inserts would work well on brass? I saw you were using them for wood but since HSS tools for brass tend to be neutral rake it might make a good finishing tool for it as well. Might be something worth checking.
Uhmmm... Your comment makes me think about trying it on my next brass job... Could work pretty good with a super nice finish... Thanks ;)
Would make a good short video to compare finish on brass using the lapped carbide vs standard insert if you do find it works out
I'll do the tests on wood before and I'll try them on brass, question of not having to re-polish the inserts for the main purpose... Have to think about it on some brass turning job to come... ;)
Interesting. A good source of lapping compounds in sensible quantities and at reasonable prices - thanks for that. A nice result in terms of finish - but - don't you need to polish up another insert face to the same finish so that you get a really sharp, finely finished, EDGE which is what counts for cutting? Not a criticism, just a question.
Sigh...!!! Another one to polish... lol
There is gonna be some trials and improvements to be done as we test the product in the future days or weeks, there are going to be some short updates on the outcome... ;)
interesting as usual. I buy quite a bit of stuff from Bang Good.
When purchasing stuff on any trade site you're good to check the references and be quite choosy, but so far I've got lots of great purchases from Banggood.
And, it's about the same things that eBay or local resellers are passing on to you for like 4 to 10 times he price... ;)
super
Thank you, glad you liked and thanks for your comment...
What wood are you hoping to use those inserts on? You might even find you get better results with a rough finish rather than a polished one, much like scissors don't work on paper or cloth if they are smooth.
On the "don't use diamond on anything other than carbide", you do know you can get a diamond wheel for a Tormek wet grinder and Drill Doctor use one too, "just saying" as Keith would say. :>)
In the woodworking world good carbon or tool steel is King, the master turners have ways to work with steel tooling where the finish don't even need sanding cause the sharpness of the tool. So far they can't get those results with carbide, this is a test to see how close we can get...
On the advice of not to use those wheels on other than carbide, I'm talking about resin bond wheels like those here, other types like the ones you mention will work perfectly with HSS or anything of the kind... ;)
I know one of the best production turners and what he can do is amazing and so very quickly, certainly quicker and better on couple on hundred stair balusters than a machine can do and, as you say, very little sanding. Blowing my own trumpet a bit, I made him an upgraded sizing fixture that, he claims, saves him at least an hour a day. I should have charged him more. >(
On the wheel again, you might have that back to front, A resin bonded wheel can be redressed, an electroplated one once damaged is kaput.
Doesnt it help in machining like better finish
Hey Pierre and Phil, would this have any benefit for metal work as well as the wood turning, I am just curious on your thoughts here. Cheers! and thanks.
HI Howard, those inserts were a test to see how they would perform in woodworking, take a look at this from a fried's channel that tested them...
ruclips.net/video/dOpNvxDd_Yc/видео.html
Yes, definitely. Carbide inserts only achieve optimum effects with powerful lathes and while taking deep cuts, for hobby lathes HSS tooling is superior when doing metalwork. If you prefer to use carbide tooling on a mini lathe then its still possible to achieve pretty decent results, but the only way to do that is by making sure the carbide tooling is as sharp as possible, much more so than how it comes out of the factory.
Hi Pierre
The stuff you get from Banggood seems to be the same quality as the stuff I get from my local dealer. I live in China by the way. Please let me know what you need and I will happily provide you. I work in the Oil & Gas business and benefit from the the 28 day rotation, so occasionally I will have time to support you.
Hi, just about everything, even what's made in the USA has most the parts made in China or an Asian country... It's kinda normal to be able to find lots of comon products all around the World.
Is the price of shipping some parcels using the mail service as high for someone residing in China as we pay over here in Canada to use the service...??? Cause here it's really expensive to ship anything around, most of the time more than the cost of goods...
Yet I have no idea of what could be something you could do, but, since there is always something new that can happen, maybe one of those days you'll be able to do something...
Thanks for the offer and for support, Pierre
🥇For 20 years, we are the last small factory in France polishing aluminum rims with a very polished polishing!
And I still learn with you! As this move from 7 microns to 1 micron (0.0000393701inch ) for a finish "mirror".
the important part is the materials for polishing, in your case " diamond compound" ,I knew artificial sapphire powder or Aluminium oxide powder but not " artificial diamond compound" , I'm going to try.a question however, have you also polished your aluminum bracket? does it have a mirrored finish like your carbide insert ?
The Aluminium plates won't polish, being way softer than the material to polish they will allow the diamond particles to get embedded into the surface, a little like an emery cloth will hold the grit and allow the material to be polished to more without moving the grits.... Or something like it if I expressed myself correctly...
@@pierresgarage2687 .thank you very much, you are really above the lot! for my mirroir finish on aluminum I will stay to use aluminum oxide from 7 microns to 1 micron (0.0000393701inch) for a finish "mirror" , with the help of a brush made of sisal and 100% cotton ...
Diamond compounds are better choice on much harder materials than Aluminium or soft steel... your already proven method seems to me like a winning strategy... ;)
Are these for Robert? I have an 8000 grit DMT diasharp stone. I wonder how it would do on an insert?
The inserts will be soon tested in woodworking application in order to find out if they could approach some well sharpened steel tooling... ;) This is a colaboration with another video producer from Quebec that has a woodworking Channel and shop...
I'd be also curious to find out about the 8000 from the DMT... The finest DMT is a 1200 and it's never producing anything that shines...
The most diffucult part is to get the surface to be polished as flat as possible with the coarser grit right from the first grind, after that the rest is downhill and pretty easy as the grit gets finer. You need to keep contamination from coarse grit in order to avoid scratches on final finishes...
just ordered some
For home or small shop the product will be doing a great job at a fair price... ;)
i mainly turn wood and use carbide tools a lot been trying to get them sharp but no luck so far will see if this works
OK curious why the need for a mirror finish insert....
The inserts will be soon tested in woodworking application in order to find out if they could approach some well sharpened steel tooling... ;)
The conventional wisdom is that carbide tooling, since it is sintered and not a continuous material "cannot be sharpened" to the same degree that HSS or other types can. I suspect this is a bit of an overstatement, it can obviously be honed to an extremely sharp edge, you just need to use the appropriate abrasive, IE diamond. Whether it will hold it's edge is another question. But if it does, being a harder material then it should last longer.
Carbide is always a little less able to come to a very acute edge and keep it, we got to compromise in order to keep a decent sharpness longer than a steel edge would last... ;)
Thanks for watching and for your comment, Pierre
Did you wash your hands between grits?
Never mind I asked to quick.
After you lap upper surface, you must grind the sides.
I ground the sides a little on some of the inserts, but carbide doesn't get to to be as acute as a steel edge, it's a mater of compromise between sharpness and longivity of the edge...
Thankls for comment, Pierre
Hello. Can I use the paste without diluting it with water. Planning to use it with a felt buffing wheel and a Dremel.
This paste is an oil based mix, not very suitable for dilution in water. The principle is to imbed the diamond particules in a base material (Aluminium) softer than the material to polish (Carabide), in order to get effective grind, mostly in the finer grits, you need to use a support as thin as pssible, in the present video I use WD-40 or kerosene.
If you seach for some water based diamond suspensions you should be able to find something suitable...
Thanks for your comment...
@@pierresgarage2687 Thank you for the reply I appreciate it!
Also may I add that I never used those pastes on buffing wheels, not certain how it would work.
I had been buying diamond paste in 5-gram syringes. Now I am thinking about buying the diamond powder in grits from 1000 to 80000 and mixing with mineral oil to make my own diamond paste as needed on demand. Is such a mix essentially 50% diamond powder (in grams) and 50% mineral oil (in grams), or is the amount of diamond powder used in ready-made paste much less than 50%?
Not sure for what you want to use the paste, the use will determine the ratis and the type of oil or thinner.
For coarser grain you may use some little thicker oil, but, when you get to very fine grain, you may want the thinner as liquid as possible, like kerosene, or even alchool, you want something to evacuate the particules, not something to keep those between the lapping surface and the part you want to polish, the above is relating to a situation where you have a softer lapping surface and a part you want to polish.
If you plan to do some polishing with a pad or some some kind of rag, you'll have to experiment, I'm not very experienced with using diamond paste or coumpounds in that fashion, probably a little different from standard polishing compounds where you need to create a certain amount of heat in order to get proper results...
In any case, just let me know how it goes, and, thanks for viewing and for comment, Pierre
Thanks for your reply. I wasn't even thinking about the carrier. I was thinking I'd use mineral oil for everything. I am polishing stainless steel, nickel, and brass to a mirror finish. This is solely for aesthetics, no polishing of machine parts. I am using a rotary tool with various pads and brushes to do the polishing.
When like you I want to polish some parts for aesthetics, I use different polishing pastes on polishing pads or wheels, never tried with diamond pastes. My use for diamond polishing is more for lapping harder parts by using a laping plate made with softer material to where the diamonds will imbed themselves, naturaly the finer the diamonds the liter the solvent, when you get to the micron sized particules, you don't feel much abrasion even though the job is still getting done...
newbie here. the lapping steel plates - where to buy? mygreathanks and blessings
The aluminium plates I used in the video were just made flat from milling them with a big facemill. If you want a really absolute flat surface thos are available from sullpier that make high precision devices, just be aware that those aren't cheap. Everything depends on what you want to achieve in the end. Also make sure you get a plate that is softer than the material you want to lap, get aluminium, copper, cast iron, plain steel.
Enjoy machining, it's a real fun occupation...
@@pierresgarage2687 mygreathanks and blessings
After lappong did the the cutting performance enhanced
Those were meant to make tests on cutting wood, the sharper the cutting tool is the better the cult will be, mostly with carbide the better the polish is the sharper you will get the edge to be, the problem with carbide is being very hard it's also very brittle, so thee edges will chip easier on impacts. In most cases high speed tooling will give off a better finer cut but won't last as long as good carbide tool.
@@pierresgarage2687 ive heard theres always gonna be fracture like structure at the edge and a mirror finish reduces it
@@woozhi9218 This is the reason where the choice of composition for the carbide insert is adapted to the intended use, the manufacturers will adapt depending if you cut either, wood steel, aluminium, plastics, etc... The receipe and geometry will change as well as coatings if required, making optimal cutting inserts is a science in itself.... 🌈👍
So how do I apply this to polishing an axe?
Haven't tried the axe, but, loading a piece of wood, possibly aluminium or brass with diamond paste, another possible one is a piece of leather well loaded just like a stroping strap....
Let me know if you get something that works... ;)
Pas mas de tout, Pierre!
Thanks for viewing and for taking time to comment... Pierre
Le but visé est simplement esthétique ou pour affuter les inserts ?
C'est pour un essai à savoir si on peut obtenir une surface et un tranchant compatible pour du tournage sur bois. Aussi pour démontrer la possibilité de polir des surfaces extrêmement dures et d'obtenir un fini miroir. Je sais qu'il est possible de commander des outils à bon prix directement de sites de commerce en ligne Chinois. 🙂👍
@@pierresgarage2687 J'ai des inserts utilisés pour émorfiler des lames de patin de vitesse. Je me demande si et comment je peux retrouver la coupe d'origine. Avec votre méthode ou simplement en utilisant des pierres d'aiguisage. Et selon quelle technique et quelle efficacité ? Merci Pierre pour votre vidéo.
You missed the tips on them! Isn't that pretty much the whole point.... To polish the point? 14:05
I know, this was the first insert to be polished and filmed, some other inserts were done in a better fashion, the main purpose of the video was to demonstrate the possibility to make mirror finish on material as hard as carbide with that procedure.
Even if it's quite easy to get this finish, in order to make the process fast enough, you need to start with at least a pretty well ground rough surface to start with, that wasn't the case with that insert.... ;)
If you look closely at the end, you totally missed grinding to the very tip on the one edge. That edge will be no better than from the initial 180 grit grind.
Hi, those inserts were used to make a point on some project to come, I waned to show how it's possible to get a mirror finish on the inserts and as the incomplete edge, we used the completely finished one for the tests, along with other inserts not shown in this video... ;)
Thanks forviewing and for leaving a comment, Pierre
That shows how much even carbide bends under the pressure of that centre screw. It would have pushed the ends up so they got ground more by the wheel. Then on the lapping plate they relax back, and don't get lapped.
at 3:00 what is the base you are using to move the piece back and forth
It's like using a surface grinder, the foreward part of the wheel will wear most as the center of it will wear least or not, in this way you can get equal removal on all the surface instead of an uneven removal as different parts of the wheel won't wear at the same rate.
@@pierresgarage2687 i meant the forward and backward motion of the carbide, is it a cnc vice or
You can buy polished inserts. I'm not sure of how you are going to use the flat insert unless I missed it.
This was a test on making those to use on wood turning tools considering future purchase of those already polished ones. By the same token test polishing possibilities with the diamond pastes.
Thanks for viewing and for your comment 🌈👍
@@pierresgarage2687 I have way too many wood turning tools but the ones I have with carbide inserts are really not my favorite. The club I was in we made our own tool holders mostly for hollowing. I have one diamond insert tool I have never even used for outside turning. 🤣
@@gvet47 Actually, those inserts were made to try on some carbide turning toos I made for a fellow RUclipsr that works with wood projects, I've included a link to his channel, if you search a littl he's showing how he made the handles for the metal part I made for him. He also uses the holders in some of his work.
ruclips.net/channel/UCCsdIja21VT7AKkbVI5y8bQ
He does a French and an English version of all his videos...
I have used diamond pastes on steel lapping plates to sharpen my high quality wood chisels. Believe me, this stuff can bring steel to scary sharp proportions. Unfortunately I purchased my plates and paste from a wood working supply house that demands premium prices. I would purchase more from Banggood at this incredible price but this stuff lasts forever. It’s a good idea to keep the plates protected and in separate containers when storing them. I use zip lock bags and throw in a little silica packet to absorb moisture to prevent moisture. Also, if you don’t like the mess made with Water Displacement trial test # 40 , use Windex as lubricant. It smells better and cleans up nicely.
You seem to use water or water base solvent to dilute your paste, here I use WD-40 or kerosene to thin the paste, also the plates I used were Aluminium, since I was using mineral based thinner, I was storing the lapping plates in Ziplocks still pretty buttered with the goo on them, I wasn't worried about corrosion, got to be more careful not to gouge in the plate with Al, though...
don't your lapping plates need to be flat?
This is more for proof of concept than getting a perfect flat surface, thi insert was only one unit made in order to try some wood cutting tool, the other ones were to be eventually purchased as they are available from asian suppliers at a price low enough that it wasn't economical to do it that way...
Thanks for viewing and for you comment, Pierre
What is the other application?
Those are tests for using them in woodworking applications, to see if carbide can deliver a finish close from steel tooling... !!! ???
Pierre's Garage Interesting video on polishing. As far as for use as wood turning you can purchase carbide already polished as often used on aluminum.
Why not use the wheel for HSS ???
Those type of wheels where the diamonds are held with resin will wear very quickly, look more for boron type wheels for HSS.
Where can I purchase same style plate? Smooth plate
I made those plates by using a face mill on the milling machine, you could purchase some pieces of 6061-T6 and lap it with emery cloth on a reasonably flat surface.
Pierre's Garage thanks. Do I stick the emery cloth to the plate or do it how you did yours?
If you have available a good flat reference surface the emery method would be a step above the milling method, the surface doesn't need to be mirror finish on the Aluminium plate, some tiny streaks will help keep the diamond particles on the plate as you use it, you probably can notice the surface finish from the milling process on my plates left some cutter marks.
I want to use it to polish out scratches on watches.
Should work on glass or any other hard material, not sure on plastics, though, I haven't tried it on soft stuff... Make a test before using on any $$$$ watch or jewel, just in case...!!!
Let me know what works for you so I can add expereinces in future videos.
Thanks, Pierre
@@pierresgarage2687 Will it work on stainless steel ?
You mean I have to place another order?? Shit.... ;-)
You're easily influencable... lol When it comes to tooling... ;)
0:27 super confused, you say good for carbide but then say don't use on carbide a few seconds later ....
My mistake about saying carbide on the second time, I meant HSS or hardened materials...
To make it as clear as possible, don't use resin/diamond grinding wheels like those on HSS or hardened steel they will wear very quickly...
It's not getting dark because of the carbide it's getting dark because of the aluminum that's oxidizing as you take it off. More aluminum is ending up in that paste then carbide absolutely
Nope.....
The diamond cristals are imbeded in the Aluminium plate, the carbide insert don't even touch the Al or just about..... Yes, the diamond grit will fracture and wear, when reloading the Al plate it's like a new grinding plate.....
Unless you get a better explanation, this is carbide grit removed from the insert.
ha your going to make a happy WoodPecker
You and you're Twiter box, you'd be a real president one of those days... lol
Keep the secret....
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1. This method will not produce a flat surface. The finger pressure is not the same in all directions and the fluid hydrodynamics will prevent the piece being polished to stay parallel to the plate. The polished piece does not appear flat, but slightly curved, as it should using this method. Can we have your definition of "flat"? How do you test the flatness?
2. Why not use a flat glass as a support? The machined Al is far from flat and is slowly becoming less and less flat. So, if flatness is important, how do you keep the finished product flat?
3. Mirror finish is not a technical term. Numbers are needed: such as roughness. How do you measure it?
4. A mirror glass is finished with 0.1 micron grit. Why stop at 1 micron, when green light (mid of visual spectrum) is 0.5 micron?
5. Low viewing angle is not a good test. A poor surface will appear polished at these angles, as rough defects send light a high angles. This is why test is done looking from above with a strong light source from the side. At about 14:10 one can see a lot of scratches on the polished surface. Is this OK? If yes, what is the meaning of "polished with scratches"?
Thank you.
You're right about the job being rushed, this is more like proof of concept, than actually producing a super precise part. This part didn't need the perfect flatness on the surface. This was to show that with the needed steps and with a little more precautions used in this video you could achieve some decent results with diamond polishing pastes, to get perfect results you need to be very meticulous and tidy with the different steps in order to avoid taking over bigger grits in the following steps...
Thanks for viewing and for your comment, Pierre
Are you a Banggood employee or something cause all you seem to do is push products from their site. Thought this was an actual machining channel, guess not.
Not a Banggood employee, simply a machinist that looks for some of the rare decent lower priced tools from them in order for viewers to save money, mostly for little shops and hobbyists that need to decide if they get brand names or put food on the table...
If you look through the channel you may find some decent videos about machining techniques. Sometimes it's worth going deeper and discover the good stuff...
Carbide is cut/formed or whatever to get the shape for good results in a modern low vibration with a solid tool mount at high speed. Why do you alter it? What are you cutting and why wouldn't high speed steel work? The process posed here takes time and supports China, the country that puts small countries in debt by loaning them money or does a construction project, placing them in a position where they cannot repay the loan and forecloses just enough to gain control of the project, which means profits.
Those inserts were a test to see if we could modify metalworking inserts to te suitable for woodwork, that worked out quite suitable, later we found some right sized inserts for woodworking on Asian sites, cause some local shops were asking something like $24CDN for a single insert.
On the plus side, this showed what was possible using that method... ;)
Thanks for your comment, Pierre
BTW, China is just another one that uses their money to get their feet in other small countries, they got good teachers in most other capitalist countries... not to name any, since I don't want to make this channel a political one...
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Why do people like banggood so much? I'm fairly certain they practically only stock things from Aliexpress, and at least when buying from Aliexpress you're not directly supporting the sale of counterfeit tools
AliExpress, Bangood, Amazon, eBay, etc... are competitors, you'll find fake and conterfeit items on ALL of those platforms... Some will produce their own brands or brews like inserts, holders, bearings, some of those are very acceptable quality, as some are really not acceptable, as a consumer you need to do your homeworks and make your decisions on what you will purchase to get the best possible deals versus quality...
One good point about Banggood as they're working to gain some market share, they work hard to make sure the customer is getting the best possible products and after sale service.
I'm trying to keep people informed of some good products available, if you have purchased good or bad items feel free to give me some feedback.
Thanks for viewing and taking time to comment, Pierre
Aliexpress is more like eBay - many different companies and individuals with unpredictable support. Pierre is right - Banggood is always the same single company and has reliable customer support.
The fact that banggood is one single company is exactly the problem, because they sell counterfeit goods that damage brands we like.
Sorry, but : Are you so broke to buy on that website ?!
Uhmmm...!!! It's even worse that what you could imagine....
Between you and me, the local sellers are purchasing from the same sources and retailing it about 4 to times the price I pay even with shipping included... Then I'd go broke even faster... ;)
I think I understand your concern. Like supporting the local economy and job creation? If there is a local company that really makes the same stuff then you would be right about buying locally.
But if you find the same stuff for sale from a local supplier they most likely buy it also abroad and put a big mark up on it and create only very few jobs for order processing, shipping it on to you. So you only support a rip off with almost no impact on local job creation. You need to look at each case more closely to be sure how to best buy.
buying from abroad and marking up 400 percent is the american way, you only need a harvard business degree, a nice name and a slogan to make fortune, apple,starbucks,harbor freight, even craftman tools now....the list goes on
Maybe a little more than a diploma, when you see companies like GoPro that sells $600 little shitty cam they pay at the most $30, a pair of Nike shoes sold for $350 that cost them like $10, and so on and so on... this doesn't create ANY jobs on our side of the pond and only makes the 1% even ritcher and the rest only a little poorer at every purchase... SAD...!!!!
BTW those BIG ONES have all the evasive methods to avoid paying taxes...
It is not only the big ones doing that. It is also many medium, small and very small ones. Check out one-man ebay-resellers of imported stuff with big markup. You need no diploma at all to do this. But the counter-strategy is to start businesses who produce the same stuff locally and hope for local minded buyers who are ready to pay a local but fair price and who wants local customer support. Everybody complaining about people buying overseas should start their own business manufacturing the same product locally. Then you create new jobs...