Great vid man! I’m doing one tomorrow on a 2016 1.6T AWD. I appreciate guys like you who take the time to put this info out there. I always like to see what I’m getting into before I turn a wrench. Oh yeah….tell your boss to get off your back! If your channel takes off he’ll be working for you….. if you let him! Ha ha!
Thank you, all of your instructions were right on. I did it without a car lift, utilizing floor jacks. For those of you who attempt this, keep in mind the car will roll on the ground so chock the back wheels. I made an A-Frame out of 2x8s on wheels to attach my electric cable hoist to. I then put a 5/16th wire cable through the factor lifting lugs and attached my hoist to the cable. Since I was on jack stands, I always leave my floor jack under the car up in case of jacks failing as a precaution. So I purchased a cheap bottle jack for holding the engine up. In the video, you hear him call for assistance to remove the ball joints. Do it his way. I destroyed the one because no one was around, It took forever. I then had help available for the second one and it popped right out. But I am replacing both since I have 178,000 miles on them. I took way longer than 4 hours but I drink a lot of coffee and as a professional Millwright I wrench machinery all day at work. Without a car lift, it means a lot of crawling around. But is very doable. Using an electric hoist was an advantage because I could lower and lift without assistance with the buttons to hoist hanging below the car. Note: I doubled the hoist cable to a two-part configuration. This cuts the up and down by 1/2 speed giving better control while removing the transmission. Excellent Job, your video was really appreciated
Thanks for the video. I have a friend who is about to have a 2016 rebuilt, which is why I was searching RUclips. A whole lot of work just to remove that thing.
i was removing one this afternoon. i saw that the rear mount removed let the engine going back a few inches back giving enough room to handle the turbine bolts with no problem!!!. Awesome!!!
To remove those four 15 MM bolts for the Torque converter, I simply removed the oil pan. It's so much easier. I read the conversation you had with the other person. Totally get it. You're at a shop, and the owner might not like that.
Good job. You do good work. Thanks for the thorough video. A great help to DIY guys and what to expect. My GF 2016 escape awd 2.0 at 141k is having weird tranny issues. Autozone computer scan says it was a cam sensor. Replaced that. Didn’t fix. Changed oil to make sure cam phasers were messing up engine timing. Checked coil packs. Replaced one just to be safe. No change. Now have to take somewhere to get a good deep scan diagnostic. On hills it has this jumping and rumble strip action. And at certain RPM. Can’t decide if it’s Transmssion or engine has a miss causing tranny to react. Damnit. Where is the shop you work at located? I once worked at a Mr. Transmission shop. I was disgusted at the tactics to get people to rebuild or replace. I had to bail out of that line of work. I felt sorry for people. What I learned was Chrysler products were the worst. Honda made a good car but the auto trannies would last a long time and when they would go the car had so many miles it went worth the expensive parts. Ford was a slightly better trans in pickups, cop cars, and mustangs than gmc/Chevy. But a little more costly to repair than gmc/Chevy. I guess ford and Gm/Chevy were kind of equal on that regard. But outside of service vehicles and regarding small cars, minivans and small suv….Japanese kicked ass. Mercedes was a nightmare unless it’s the old w123 chassis with a manual. Or the German standard taxi cab design model. Never ever own a Land Rover/Range Rover/jaguar. Never mess with bmw unless it’s a tried and true model with a manual. Volvo sucked unless it’s an old brick model. Toyota was a pretty good product overall. The appeal of the Ford Escape was it had lots of room, featured, and performance for its size compared to honda and Toyota. But if I had it to do over again…:I’d never let my Gf buy a Ford Escape. Sacrifice power, room and featured and buy a Toyota…then maybe honda. American stuff can be junk if it’s not a unique purpose built unit. Duck dynasty, joe dirt, meemaw, peepaw, honey boo boo, kid rock, and Ted Nugent were hungover at the assembly plant after a long hard weekend of booze, meth, and dollar general bbq. They purposely leave bolts loose, sabotage the vehicles in assembly cause they are not making enough wages to afford the vehicle they are assembling. They lack proper healthcare and are unappreciated by the company they work for. The culture they are surrounded by promotes cartoonish ideas. Good people under a bad influence. Japan promotes honor and Kaizen.
Technical Items You kinda went off on a tangent there brother. I’m kinda in the same boat as you. We on a 2017 and 2015. No issues as of yet but I’m waiting for that shoe to drop. Hoping it never will. Hang in there and Good Luck!
We rebuild them do I need to be able to button the car up and push it outside to clear rack space. If I need to swap one I will try this! Thanks for the tip, watching and the comment!
Good luck man they are pretty tight generally! I used to use a short 4 inch ratchet a little more length defiantly helps straight ratchet and straight socket.
Seriously people, take off the cowl, it takes less than 3 minutes and you won’t have to fiddle fuck with the battery and air filter. I have removed hundreds of these transmissions, trust me, you be thankful you did.
@@larryreno8293because it is not hard to remove the battery, the battery box or air filter housing. I can do the top stuff in 20 minutes without touching the wipers. Seems like a waste of time and a potential for more problems. I work at a transmission shop not a general service shop. We don’t pull cowls and we don’t pull engines and trans with cradles to remove the tranny we leave the racks in too. Why do you remove it have you tried the job without? How long do they take you to remove after doing hundreds? Thanks for the question.
Hey, liked and subscribed. Appreciate your videos. I need your advice for someone who just lost his job and his car and trying to get the cheapest way to fix my own transmission through your videos. I have a 2017 Ford escape se 1.5 eco boost. My cv joint on driver side been clicking for weeks. Then yesterday, no forward motion then a jerk from the car and then moves forward again. Happened about 3 times. Felt like transmission. Then I put car in park and gave it a little gas. Sounded like 1 small gear lightly touching another one and making a high pitch sound. I let off the pedal I could here the rotation slow down as I watched the rpms also go down. Had it towed. Mechanic says bad transmission he said 7600 to replace that the only place he can get it from is Ford. Anyway, what are the chances that this could be a torque converter issue that I could buy for a couple hundred and put in? If you don't think so, then can I order gears if I see a bad gear or something? Cv joint I know I will need to replace. Any help on the cheap would be apprecitaed.
Unfortunately, changing just a converter is probably not gonna fix it these transmissions have a couple different issues, but you’re gonna probably have to go through it to fix them all. Sorry I can’t be more helpfull. There is a chance it could be just the axle but I doubt it.
At 40:11, you said "Plug In Transmission 2 Plugs ONE In Front On Pan One On Left Side Front By Pan." I connected the one on the front on pan.... Pan = Black Valve Body Cover? I can't find the second connector. I don't remember a second connector besides the turbine sensor. Reason I'm asking is I'm not getting the vehicle to crank, so I'm trying to figure out which ground I haven't connected yet.
Yeah, there’s a connector on the front of the pan or front cover and there’s normally a ground that goes to the starter or one of the top bell bolts a big thick wire
@@rome8087 check the signal wire on the starter. See if it has power. Only thing I can think of we sure you have your main hot on the starter as well you can apply power at the starter relay and make it Crank then everything is hooked up.
@doingstuffwithdylan4367 yes, I did that. Turns out, when I had my GPS installed, the Electrician who worked on it somehow tapped some wires together, and I happened to pull them out without even knowing. Also, one of my transmission cooler lines needs new rubber seals. When I pulled the cooler line out, the old seals on both ends got stuck inside the old cooler, and I happened to toss it out. When I gave ground to the starter to get it going, some of the transmission fluid started to gush out. Those rubber seals are dealer parts only.
Hello Dylan.. I just had my mechanic to replace the transmission in a 2015 Ford Escape SE 1.6L, but when I took it up to the Ford dealership to get the transmission programmed to the motor, the Ford Dealership said that it wouldn’t allow them to and that it was throwing off about 7 different codes.. so do you have an idea what went wrong.. because I purchased the rebuilt transmission from Willow Creek Transmission in South Carolina..?
Sorry you are having trouble. We don’t program them when we rebuild them. Reset adapts at most. Without seeing car I would be guessing. Assuming the transmission is correct for the vehicle and built properly I would look at main transmission connector for bent pins. Good luck and keep me posted.
Question where did you buy that torque convertor. Also I have a 2013 Ford escape 2.0 turbo no Miss fire no codes and I get vibration while in park and reverse. While driving the suv runs great it’s only in drive and reverse. Will the torque convertor do that, also it drops my rpms while in drive and reverse. Thanks you for the help
@@doingstuffwithdylan4367 all motor mounts are new even the transmission mount. My conclusion was that maybe the torque convertor is trying to lock up. In idle it idles at 950 rpms and in drive and reverse it drops to 500 rpms
I’m having trouble moving that starter out of the way I’m not seeing any of the bolts you took out and am I supposed to take tol he stater completely out to get to the torque converter nuts
Did a motor in an Escape the other day. Have to at least pull the trans back out. Started it up and can hear something rattling around inside the bellhousing. It was a used motor I installed and am pretty sure the junkyard dropped a torque converter nut behind the flex plate.
I defiantly can happen. Keep in mind I have seen a few of these with a broken flex plate. I have done a bunch of these 2 hours max to get it out. Good luck!! Thanks for the comment!
Good Job Bro. Try to remove the cowl next time. In this case you will have a lrge room and space from the top and will be very easy to put back the mount , battery and air cleaner. That is what I am doing always.
Cowl comes in and out fast on these. I just jerked trans out of a FWD 1.6 Escape the other day in 1.25 hrs. Mind you, it was a redo due to build issue.
Hey man great video! I just replaced the trans in a 14 escape 1.6 fwd and I'm getting a grinding sound with the starter installed. If I just hold the starter in with my hand and start the car then pull it away once started it doesn't make the noise. Any thoughts what it could be rubbing on?
Kind of sounds like the starter is staying engaged. I would try a new starter before I removed the trans again. These some times have fly wheel problems so if you have to re remove check that. Hopefully I was helpful let me know what you find.
@@doingstuffwithdylan4367 thanks for the reply man okay I will look into that starter some more see if I can see what the deal is. Just has me wondering why it wasn't rubbing before, I doesn't seem like we're changing the orientation of the starter to the flex plate so I'm confused about that. Is there anything during the installation of the trans that we could have done wrong to cause something to rub the starter? Have you ever had to shim a starter in a case like this with a reman trans? Sorry for all the questions just looking for some advice.
@@matthenry5521 yeah it’s hard to imagine what has changed there might be a rubber piece in there after you remove the starter that I normally throw away but with the starter bolting to the motor I can’t see how fly wheel contact would change. Sounds like the starter may be sticking out. I would remove starter (with a new one available to try.) look for marks on it or what not Never had much issue with them tho. Maybe try the new starter. With out seeing it I’m just pulling at strings. Hope I’m helpful.
Do you need a mate it further? That’s my guess. If the bell housing is fully together, I’m worried there may be an issue. I’ve never had this problem I’ve done over 60.
hello, contact from Italy I have a Ford Kuga 05/2018 (your version of Ford Escape). diesel engine with powershift (perhaps 6dct450 with oil bath clutch) has this version been modified?
Dylan where are you located? You are someone that I would want to replace the transmission on my 2014 Ford Escape. 2.5L S stock Ford Escape. Do you know how much something like this would run me over at the transmission shop you work at?
Hi I have a 2015 escape 2.0 and it shakes very bad when I put it in drive I hooked up scanner n its bad misfire on all cylinders. I take foot off brake pedal and it smooths out I feel like a bad torque converter. Car is very smooth in park Not when you get to a stop sign it shake.reverse shakes half of when its Its in Drive can a bad torque converter be a problem.
So I was drving today when my 2016 escape 1.6 AWD started to just got nuts RPM up down, crazy shifts etc, then the warning came on transmission fault displayed. If stopped for 5 mins engine of restarted, warning was gone but not a few meters down the road same issue. Called a tow and brought her to the shop! So what am I possibly looking at for repairs. Great video by the way.
@@doingstuffwithdylan4367 Yup you're bang on! The Canadian price is $4500. I am thinking after the repair is done pf selling it while the used car market is hot to recoup my money and then buy a used Corolla. Thank your for the reply
have a 13 2.0 awd, have the hardest time even getting to the top bolt of the PTU. I cut down a rachet and got the forth bolt but I can't get the last bolt. any recommendations?
I’ve used a short 13 gear ranch before with a strap and then hang your whole weight off of it or the same with a short ratchet I’ve seen guys get an air ratchet over the top with a wobble socket
@@doingstuffwithdylan4367 I’m currently doing one I wished ida found your video first because I took the cowl and sub frame and all out I thought about the screw Jack holding up the engine but I hung it just to be safe I’m helping out my old boss at his shop and you own your place or we’re is it you work if you don’t mind me asking sir thanks again for sharing your video it helped going back in with it.
If your having trouble getting the converter To pop free of the fly wheel The best message to rectify that says to use a prybar on either side both sides maybe get a helper Seen these have fly wheel problems as well
My 2013 ford escape just leaked a half gallon of tranmission fluid as i was putting it in. I had a small leak but as i was putting it in cause it started acting up, it just all came out.what would you say the problem is.
I have 2015 Ford Taurus 2.0 engine with eco boost I found the torque converter strips out and need to be replaced, How much would a job like this cost me?
My Trans went out in my 16 escape. Debating on attempting it myself. This video gave me hope that it can be done. I can't afford the 5500 to have shop do it. Are these transmission notoriously bad? Might just eat the rest of my loan amd trade it on something else
@@doingstuffwithdylan4367Very helpful video btw. I installed a reman and it failed immediately, im pulling back out right now. But 1 question before I take it back for warranty; it slips in drive and barely moves the car after it hits real hard when it engages. It also hits hard in reverse but holds and moves the car normally. Is there something I might be missing on instalment that would cause this?
@@gunsmithgary9589 I really doubt it short of not flushing the cooler and lines. But I still kind of doubt that would cause your symptoms. They are pretty straight forward.
I have a 2014 escape awd it will shudder when driving, ford garage said it was spark plugs and after changing them said they found metal shavings in the transmission, want $7000 to replace. how do I know if its really the tranny?
@@doingstuffwithdylan4367 great video I’ve been a trans mechanic for 30 years and it’s great to see a video of a trained tech working on vehicles we really work on every day, not just another video of how to remove a 4L60e on a 2WD Chevy 1500 with no rust from Texas. Thank you. I do a lot of these at my shop, that pesky weird exhaust bracket in a pain. I’m seeing problems getting out the 6 8 mm rear driveshaft to t case bolts too as they’re getting older
I can imagine with the rate these things eat transmissions a fella could get quite proficient at replacing them , Damn you Ford ! As witnessed by this video .
$11k 🤣. I just rebuilt one, used all Ford Motorcraft parts including fluid. Parts came to $1200 plus my 18 hours of labor (no charge to myself). But a Ford Reman is $3500, plus 9.2 hours labor to install. That's a big difference from $11k.
Make it look so easy. I have removed tons of transmissions. When I took this one out I was thinking. Ford sucks what a horrible car. I feel for anyone that's gotta work on one. Absolute junk. Hey Ford why don't you just make more cheap brittle plastic parts. 😂😂
Great vid man! I’m doing one tomorrow on a 2016 1.6T AWD. I appreciate guys like you who take the time to put this info out there. I always like to see what I’m getting into before I turn a wrench. Oh yeah….tell your boss to get off your back! If your channel takes off he’ll be working for you….. if you let him! Ha ha!
Thanks man for taking the time to comment! They are not too bad. Torque converter nuts have to be the hard part.
At 12:30, that cover on the T-case doesn't need to come off. The T-case comes out fine with the cover on it.
Thanks for posting, was a great help!
Thanks for the tip
Thank you, all of your instructions were right on. I did it without a car lift, utilizing floor jacks. For those of you who attempt this, keep in mind the car will roll on the ground so chock the back wheels. I made an A-Frame out of 2x8s on wheels to attach my electric cable hoist to. I then put a 5/16th wire cable through the factor lifting lugs and attached my hoist to the cable. Since I was on jack stands, I always leave my floor jack under the car up in case of jacks failing as a precaution. So I purchased a cheap bottle jack for holding the engine up.
In the video, you hear him call for assistance to remove the ball joints. Do it his way. I destroyed the one because no one was around, It took forever. I then had help available for the second one and it popped right out. But I am replacing both since I have 178,000 miles on them.
I took way longer than 4 hours but I drink a lot of coffee and as a professional Millwright I wrench machinery all day at work. Without a car lift, it means a lot of crawling around. But is very doable. Using an electric hoist was an advantage because I could lower and lift without assistance with the buttons to hoist hanging below the car. Note: I doubled the hoist cable to a two-part configuration. This cuts the up and down by 1/2 speed giving better control while removing the transmission.
Excellent Job, your video was really appreciated
Note: I had to remove the cowl to get the hoist over center
Thanks for taking the time to comment. I’m glad the video was helpful. Literally why I make videos! Thanks again!
Good repair info for LOTS of different jobs in one video. Well done!
Thanks! It was a lot of work but I wanted a complete process video.
Most amazing thing I've seen! Mad skills! Very well done sir.
Thanks man! Thanks for taking the time to comment!!!
Thanks for the video. I have a friend who is about to have a 2016 rebuilt, which is why I was searching RUclips. A whole lot of work just to remove that thing.
2 wd I can get out in one hour. Not too bad. Thanks for watching and the comment!
i was removing one this afternoon. i saw that the rear mount removed let the engine going back a few inches back giving enough room to handle the turbine bolts with no problem!!!. Awesome!!!
Yep not too bad at all! They can be pretty tight sometimes. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
To remove those four 15 MM bolts for the Torque converter, I simply removed the oil pan. It's so much easier. I read the conversation you had with the other person. Totally get it. You're at a shop, and the owner might not like that.
Yep I’ve done so many by now it’s easy really thanks for the comment!
Hey thank you for the video I was able to pull it exactly in 2 hours at my shop God bless you brother
Thanks for the comment! This is why I make videos. Glad it was helpful!
Damn good video doing the job right now
Nice man good luck
Awesome thanks for the comment!
That’s what I’m talking about, good job… I’m doing one now 👏👏👍
Thanks man. They are not too bad once you get used to them!!
Awesome speed and precision.Your hired!!
Thank you! How much are you paying?
I did with 4 wd ,but I took whole front bumper, became easy everything can touch it,and save a lot time
Not i
Good job. You do good work. Thanks for the thorough video. A great help to DIY guys and what to expect. My GF 2016 escape awd 2.0 at 141k is having weird tranny issues. Autozone computer scan says it was a cam sensor. Replaced that. Didn’t fix. Changed oil to make sure cam phasers were messing up engine timing. Checked coil packs. Replaced one just to be safe. No change. Now have to take somewhere to get a good deep scan diagnostic. On hills it has this jumping and rumble strip action. And at certain RPM. Can’t decide if it’s Transmssion or engine has a miss causing tranny to react. Damnit. Where is the shop you work at located? I once worked at a Mr. Transmission shop. I was disgusted at the tactics to get people to rebuild or replace. I had to bail out of that line of work. I felt sorry for people. What I learned was Chrysler products were the worst. Honda made a good car but the auto trannies would last a long time and when they would go the car had so many miles it went worth the expensive parts. Ford was a slightly better trans in pickups, cop cars, and mustangs than gmc/Chevy. But a little more costly to repair than gmc/Chevy. I guess ford and Gm/Chevy were kind of equal on that regard. But outside of service vehicles and regarding small cars, minivans and small suv….Japanese kicked ass. Mercedes was a nightmare unless it’s the old w123 chassis with a manual. Or the German standard taxi cab design model. Never ever own a Land Rover/Range Rover/jaguar. Never mess with bmw unless it’s a tried and true model with a manual. Volvo sucked unless it’s an old brick model. Toyota was a pretty good product overall. The appeal of the Ford Escape was it had lots of room, featured, and performance for its size compared to honda and Toyota. But if I had it to do over again…:I’d never let my Gf buy a Ford Escape. Sacrifice power, room and featured and buy a Toyota…then maybe honda. American stuff can be junk if it’s not a unique purpose built unit. Duck dynasty, joe dirt, meemaw, peepaw, honey boo boo, kid rock, and Ted Nugent were hungover at the assembly plant after a long hard weekend of booze, meth, and dollar general bbq. They purposely leave bolts loose, sabotage the vehicles in assembly cause they are not making enough wages to afford the vehicle they are assembling. They lack proper healthcare and are unappreciated by the company they work for. The culture they are surrounded by promotes cartoonish ideas. Good people under a bad influence. Japan promotes honor and Kaizen.
Probably needs a tranny. Common on these. Thanks for the comment. We are in Ohio which is in America land of the slightly free. Good luck!
Technical Items
You kinda went off on a tangent there brother. I’m kinda in the same boat as you. We on a 2017 and 2015. No issues as of yet but I’m waiting for that shoe to drop. Hoping it never will. Hang in there and Good Luck!
@@michaelgephardt5576 my 2017 Ford Escape just started in on the bullshit, lol.
Done a few of these already and you can leave the tcase in. It kinda tucks to the side and gives enough room for the bell housing bolts on that side
We rebuild them do I need to be able to button the car up and push it outside to clear rack space. If I need to swap one I will try this! Thanks for the tip, watching and the comment!
Dylan, I’m a New Subscriber to your channel. I appreciate you sharing your doing stuff with us. Awesome Job,
Thank you!
Thanks for the sub man!! I’m trying to improve my videos with every shoot! Thanks for taking the time to comment!
Great video what is the going labor rate to replace the transmission on 2013 2wd 1.6 tubo?
What about eight hours labor rates whatever you want to be
Thanks for this video Dylan. I'm going to try your technique on the torque converter nuts. Let's pray....
Good luck man they are pretty tight generally! I used to use a short 4 inch ratchet a little more length defiantly helps straight ratchet and straight socket.
Seriously people, take off the cowl, it takes less than 3 minutes and you won’t have to fiddle fuck with the battery and air filter. I have removed hundreds of these transmissions, trust me, you be thankful you did.
Thanks for the tip. I’ve only removed around 50 and I am never gonna remove the cow. It’s really not that hard to get the air box out or the battery.
@@doingstuffwithdylan4367 any particular reason why you won’t?
@@larryreno8293because it is not hard to remove the battery, the battery box or air filter housing. I can do the top stuff in 20 minutes without touching the wipers. Seems like a waste of time and a potential for more problems. I work at a transmission shop not a general service shop. We don’t pull cowls and we don’t pull engines and trans with cradles to remove the tranny we leave the racks in too. Why do you remove it have you tried the job without? How long do they take you to remove after doing hundreds? Thanks for the question.
This is high quality info, thanks brother.
Thanks man! I appreciate you taking time to comment!
Hey, liked and subscribed. Appreciate your videos. I need your advice for someone who just lost his job and his car and trying to get the cheapest way to fix my own transmission through your videos. I have a 2017 Ford escape se 1.5 eco boost.
My cv joint on driver side been clicking for weeks. Then yesterday, no forward motion then a jerk from the car and then moves forward again. Happened about 3 times. Felt like transmission. Then I put car in park and gave it a little gas. Sounded like 1 small gear lightly touching another one and making a high pitch sound. I let off the pedal I could here the rotation slow down as I watched the rpms also go down. Had it towed. Mechanic says bad transmission he said 7600 to replace that the only place he can get it from is Ford. Anyway, what are the chances that this could be a torque converter issue that I could buy for a couple hundred and put in? If you don't think so, then can I order gears if I see a bad gear or something? Cv joint I know I will need to replace. Any help on the cheap would be apprecitaed.
Unfortunately, changing just a converter is probably not gonna fix it these transmissions have a couple different issues, but you’re gonna probably have to go through it to fix them all. Sorry I can’t be more helpfull. There is a chance it could be just the axle but I doubt it.
Dude...great video!!!!!
Thanks!
At 40:11, you said "Plug In Transmission 2 Plugs ONE In Front On Pan One On Left Side Front By Pan."
I connected the one on the front on pan....
Pan = Black Valve Body Cover?
I can't find the second connector. I don't remember a second connector besides the turbine sensor.
Reason I'm asking is I'm not getting the vehicle to crank, so I'm trying to figure out which ground I haven't connected yet.
Yeah, there’s a connector on the front of the pan or front cover and there’s normally a ground that goes to the starter or one of the top bell bolts a big thick wire
@@doingstuffwithdylan4367 right. OK, sounds good. Would there be anything else not letting me able to crank the vehicle to get it started?
@@rome8087 check the signal wire on the starter. See if it has power. Only thing I can think of we sure you have your main hot on the starter as well you can apply power at the starter relay and make it Crank then everything is hooked up.
@doingstuffwithdylan4367 yes, I did that. Turns out, when I had my GPS installed, the Electrician who worked on it somehow tapped some wires together, and I happened to pull them out without even knowing.
Also, one of my transmission cooler lines needs new rubber seals. When I pulled the cooler line out, the old seals on both ends got stuck inside the old cooler, and I happened to toss it out. When I gave ground to the starter to get it going, some of the transmission fluid started to gush out. Those rubber seals are dealer parts only.
@@rome8087 a local transmission shop will probably give them away We have More of them then we ever need
Excelente amigo. Gracias por compartir tus conocimientos.
Thanks!
Hello Dylan.. I just had my mechanic to replace the transmission in a 2015 Ford Escape SE 1.6L, but when I took it up to the Ford dealership to get the transmission programmed to the motor, the Ford Dealership said that it wouldn’t allow them to and that it was throwing off about 7 different codes.. so do you have an idea what went wrong.. because I purchased the rebuilt transmission from Willow Creek Transmission in South Carolina..?
Sorry you are having trouble. We don’t program them when we rebuild them. Reset adapts at most. Without seeing car I would be guessing. Assuming the transmission is correct for the vehicle and built properly I would look at main transmission connector for bent pins. Good luck and keep me posted.
Question where did you buy that torque convertor. Also I have a 2013 Ford escape 2.0 turbo no Miss fire no codes and I get vibration while in park and reverse. While driving the suv runs great it’s only in drive and reverse. Will the torque convertor do that, also it drops my rpms while in drive and reverse. Thanks you for the help
Our parts supplier. Sounds like motor mount going bad. Does not sound like torque converter. Dropping revs?
@@doingstuffwithdylan4367 all motor mounts are new even the transmission mount. My conclusion was that maybe the torque convertor is trying to lock up. In idle it idles at 950 rpms and in drive and reverse it drops to 500 rpms
I’m having trouble moving that starter out of the way I’m not seeing any of the bolts you took out and am I supposed to take tol he stater completely out to get to the torque converter nuts
I normally roll out of the way if I can but I’ve done 40 and sometimes I just remove the wires and remove.
How are you separating the drive shaft from the t- case
Use a punch and extension from trans side through holes in back of yolk
Is the only thing you replaced was torque converter? How'd you come to diagnosis if so? Any thing on the computer need programming after? Thanks
Nope we remove rebuild and install with a new converter. Thanks for the question!
And no programming needs done!
Did a motor in an Escape the other day. Have to at least pull the trans back out. Started it up and can hear something rattling around inside the bellhousing. It was a used motor I installed and am pretty sure the junkyard dropped a torque converter nut behind the flex plate.
I defiantly can happen. Keep in mind I have seen a few of these with a broken flex plate. I have done a bunch of these 2 hours max to get it out. Good luck!! Thanks for the comment!
Good Job Bro. Try to remove the cowl next time. In this case you will have a lrge room and space from the top and will be very easy to put back the mount , battery and air cleaner. That is what I am doing always.
Not gonna happen. Thanks for watching and the comment. I do probably 2 or 3 of these a week and can’t waste that time!
Cowl comes in and out fast on these. I just jerked trans out of a FWD 1.6 Escape the other day in 1.25 hrs. Mind you, it was a redo due to build issue.
Hey man great video! I just replaced the trans in a 14 escape 1.6 fwd and I'm getting a grinding sound with the starter installed. If I just hold the starter in with my hand and start the car then pull it away once started it doesn't make the noise. Any thoughts what it could be rubbing on?
Kind of sounds like the starter is staying engaged. I would try a new starter before I removed the trans again. These some times have fly wheel problems so if you have to re remove check that. Hopefully I was helpful let me know what you find.
@@doingstuffwithdylan4367 thanks for the reply man okay I will look into that starter some more see if I can see what the deal is. Just has me wondering why it wasn't rubbing before, I doesn't seem like we're changing the orientation of the starter to the flex plate so I'm confused about that. Is there anything during the installation of the trans that we could have done wrong to cause something to rub the starter? Have you ever had to shim a starter in a case like this with a reman trans? Sorry for all the questions just looking for some advice.
@@matthenry5521 are the starter bolts parallel with the bell bolts or perpendicular?
@@doingstuffwithdylan4367 they're parallel it's the 1.6 turbo
@@matthenry5521 yeah it’s hard to imagine what has changed there might be a rubber piece in there after you remove the starter that I normally throw away but with the starter bolting to the motor I can’t see how fly wheel contact would change. Sounds like the starter may be sticking out. I would remove starter (with a new one available to try.) look for marks on it or what not Never had much issue with them tho. Maybe try the new starter. With out seeing it I’m just pulling at strings. Hope I’m helpful.
How do I get the torque converter to come forward the studs are sticking through but not enough to thread the nuts on
Do you need a mate it further? That’s my guess. If the bell housing is fully together, I’m worried there may be an issue. I’ve never had this problem I’ve done over 60.
@@doingstuffwithdylan4367 I ended up getting a really strong magnet to help pull it forward
hello, contact from Italy I have a Ford Kuga 05/2018 (your version of Ford Escape). diesel engine with powershift (perhaps 6dct450 with oil bath clutch) has this version been modified?
They don’t even have those here in the us. Thanks for commenting and watching!
Did you take the trans cooler off, leaving the hoses on the cooler? Or, did you remove the hoses and leave cooler on trans?
Yep I removed the cooler. Leave it hanging I remove just the 8 mm bolts that hold lines in. Cooler should be 10 mm Or 13
Excellent 👌 job
Thank you!
Dylan where are you located? You are someone that I would want to replace the transmission on my 2014 Ford Escape. 2.5L S stock Ford Escape. Do you know how much something like this would run me over at the transmission shop you work at?
We are located in central Ohio. I think these run around 3500 out rebuilt and back in. Thanks for the comment!
Great video!
Thank you!
Hi I have a 2015 escape 2.0 and it shakes very bad when I put it in drive I hooked up scanner n its bad misfire on all cylinders. I take foot off brake pedal and it smooths out I feel like a bad torque converter. Car is very smooth in park Not when you get to a stop sign it shake.reverse shakes half of when its Its in Drive can a bad torque converter be a problem.
I’m thinking no. Sounds like a misfire to me. Clear codes and try to figure out why it’s missing. Good luck thanks for the comment!
So I was drving today when my 2016 escape 1.6 AWD started to just got nuts RPM up down, crazy shifts etc, then the warning came on transmission fault displayed. If stopped for 5 mins engine of restarted, warning was gone but not a few meters down the road same issue. Called a tow and brought her to the shop! So what am I possibly looking at for repairs. Great video by the way.
Sounds like the trans is going out. Should be looking at around 3000 to repair it. Thanks for the comment and good luck!
@@doingstuffwithdylan4367 Yup you're bang on! The Canadian price is $4500. I am thinking after the repair is done pf selling it while the used car market is hot to recoup my money and then buy a used Corolla. Thank your for the reply
have a 13 2.0 awd, have the hardest time even getting to the top bolt of the PTU. I cut down a rachet and got the forth bolt but I can't get the last bolt. any recommendations?
I’ve used a short 13 gear ranch before with a strap and then hang your whole weight off of it or the same with a short ratchet I’ve seen guys get an air ratchet over the top with a wobble socket
You DA MAN Dylan.
Thanks man!
@@doingstuffwithdylan4367 I’m currently doing one I wished ida found your video first because I took the cowl and sub frame and all out I thought about the screw Jack holding up the engine but I hung it just to be safe I’m helping out my old boss at his shop and you own your place or we’re is it you work if you don’t mind me asking sir thanks again for sharing your video it helped going back in with it.
Columbus Ohio. I work at a transmission shop
What happens if converter doesn’t want to cone out together. What’s best method to separate once started and into this problem ?
If your having trouble getting the converter To pop free of the fly wheel The best message to rectify that says to use a prybar on either side both sides maybe get a helper Seen these have fly wheel problems as well
My 2013 ford escape just leaked a half gallon of tranmission fluid as i was putting it in. I had a small leak but as i was putting it in cause it started acting up, it just all came out.what would you say the problem is.
A line if it was running possibly or hold in the pan. I have not seen too many leakers.
I have 2015 Ford Taurus 2.0 engine with eco boost I found the torque converter strips out and need to be replaced, How much would a job like this cost me?
2500 usd. Thanks for watching and the comment!
That’s prob not the problem.
@@doingstuffwithdylan4367 May have to it too the dealer
My Trans went out in my 16 escape. Debating on attempting it myself. This video gave me hope that it can be done. I can't afford the 5500 to have shop do it. Are these transmission notoriously bad? Might just eat the rest of my loan amd trade it on something else
Yes they are. You just can’t escape it. Sorry but at home would be thought but can be done. Good luck thanks for the comment!
There are 2 holes on the AWD transfer Case yoke to separate the rear drive shaft from yoke.
Yep thanks!
@@doingstuffwithdylan4367Very helpful video btw. I installed a reman and it failed immediately, im pulling back out right now. But 1 question before I take it back for warranty; it slips in drive and barely moves the car after it hits real hard when it engages. It also hits hard in reverse but holds and moves the car normally. Is there something I might be missing on instalment that would cause this?
@@gunsmithgary9589 I really doubt it short of not flushing the cooler and lines. But I still kind of doubt that would cause your symptoms. They are pretty straight forward.
can this be done without a lift? can I do it on the floor using only floor jack?
I’m sure you could but it would be rough. You would defiantly need jack stands and would be on your back for a long time! Thanks for the question.
Removing the transfer case and axle is only for awd and not 2wd?
True. Axle still comes out on 2 wd. Just no transfer or rear driveshaft.
Did you programming the tcu?
No, normally just drive them. Reset the adapts.
You so good bro!!!
I try. Thanks!!
I have a 2014 escape awd it will shudder when driving, ford garage said it was spark plugs and after changing them said they found metal shavings in the transmission, want $7000 to replace. how do I know if its really the tranny?
Probably is sounds like they owe you a refund if nothing changed see these all the time take to a transmission shop price will be half of that
@@doingstuffwithdylan4367 thanks will do
Hey I have a ford escape 2016 all my transmission fluid leaked out omw in too work
Your in trouble
Gracias por compartir tus conocimientos
No problemo!
is the 2013 transmission fit on 2016 ? they look like a same
if no what is the different ?
Potetenaly start stop pump on front of transmission. I have a video thanks for asking hope that was helpful!
@@doingstuffwithdylan4367 great video I’ve been a trans mechanic for 30 years and it’s great to see a video of a trained tech working on vehicles we really work on every day, not just another video of how to remove a 4L60e on a 2WD Chevy 1500 with no rust from Texas. Thank you. I do a lot of these at my shop, that pesky weird exhaust bracket in a pain. I’m seeing problems getting out the 6 8 mm rear driveshaft to t case bolts too as they’re getting older
@@dragonseye5770 thanks man! It takes a lot to record and edit to make these videos! Thanks again!!
I can imagine with the rate these things eat transmissions a fella could get quite proficient at replacing them , Damn you Ford ! As witnessed by this video .
Yep sad but true! Thanks for watching and the comment!
Please tell or show me how to test on the bench
Above my pay grade. I just put them in and take them out. Sorry man. Thanks for watching!
thanks Bro for Sharing
No problem thanks for commenting
The car was White when u start it, but I saw gray car at the end 🤔
3 different cars and applications!!
dose a reman need to be programmed?
Nope. May need to reset adapts but that’s it. Thanks for the comment!
Yes. The solenoid shift strategy needs to be programmed into the ECM. Along with adaptive shift reset. And a crank relearn.
Podria traducir en castellano .porfavor. gracias.👍
Thanks!
801 ..👍
Thanks!!
Soy de chile
Welcom!
Aamco quoted $11,000 to pull old transmission and install a remanufactured transmission.
3800 out rebuilt and back in with new converter!!
$11k 🤣. I just rebuilt one, used all Ford Motorcraft parts including fluid. Parts came to $1200 plus my 18 hours of labor (no charge to myself). But a Ford Reman is $3500, plus 9.2 hours labor to install. That's a big difference from $11k.
To have
Keep on keeping on!
Looks alot harder than a buick lesabre i changed out transmission on.
Pretty similar times. I am more used too the escapes.
I like to more experience in Ford can u help me I from 🇸🇳
Just keep working on them!! Thanks for the comment!
@@doingstuffwithdylan4367 haha great reply you a great Ford technicien
That T case looked pretty awful. Not looking forward to pulling mine
It’s really not too bad. Hardest part was getting the drive shaft loose. Thanks for watching!
Its pretty bad, specially on jack stands. Don't ask me how i know...
This is a 1.6L
This has multiple engine configurations. Thanks for the comment and watching!
Good job but it's a lot. It seems like my 01 navigator was easier
Probably was but I do these in less than two hours.
Damm, ford the battery is in the wrong spot. Oh you did that on purpose.
It’s not too bad.
Whoever designed this car needs to have…. Bad things done to them. Very bad things.
Yeah torque converter nuts?
As a full time mechanic I have more than a few engineers
I’d like to kick square in the nuts.
Make it look so easy. I have removed tons of transmissions. When I took this one out I was thinking. Ford sucks what a horrible car. I feel for anyone that's gotta work on one. Absolute junk. Hey Ford why don't you just make more cheap brittle plastic parts. 😂😂
Lol about right. Designed to fail.