Brian, Not only have your videos kept my two Fords running, you also kept me entertained through a six month deployment. I think you help more people and in more ways than you realize.
Very thorough, best video on axle seal replacement. Usually I have to watch multiple videos to answer questions, after watching tutorials that lack instructions. You have left me with no questions, or the need to do further research on the subject. Thank you for taking pride in your work, and willing to share your knowledge. Awesome!!
that was one of the best tech videos ive ever seen ! you addressed all the difficult areas and i always wondered how to punch the axle back into the transmission. plunging it is excellent. was never sure if that would harm the joint or not but now i know. outstanding video and camera work too
Just did this last night, awesome video man. Thanks!!! I used a short piece of 2x4 to pound my seal in and it worked great, and purchased the seal puller on amazon which also worked great. I drained the Trans fluid first through the drain plug, which usually ends up being around 5.5 quarts and nothing came out of the seal doing it that way. On a 2014 Limited the strut bolts were splined on the left side but just on the left side of the strut itself not in the spindle. With the seal and puller it was around $30, not including trans fluid. Took a couple hours, well worth doing.
Congratulations on the new home and shop. You deserve it bro. Your tour across America helping Ford owners that were in need says it all. Keep up the great work.
My wife's SUV was leaking transmission fluid, 1/2 quart per day. I saved myself a ton of money by watching this video and I did the job myself. It only took two hours working at a slow pace while being careful. Thanks for the video! You da man!
I'ma tell ya... You helped me get my truck on the road again when I was hit by this crazy economy... My F250 2006 4x4, 5.4 engine is running pretty good... From the solenoids, differential oil, to the stuck spark plugs (7 of them), serpentine belt, and cleaning out a/c unit with just blowing it while on the car from the engine wall, to knowing that I will need to change my phazers real soon. You are a champ! The best that I have seen explain it to the exact. I changed my rear wheels seals, too. Some day I can thank you better when I get back on my feet. A gift or something...
Great video Brian. I don't have an AWD Explorer, but still enjoy watching the very professional way you explain and perform these repairs. Hope someday you will do the repair on the drivers side third row seat actuator of 2006 Explorers. Seems to be a common problem. Look forward to seeing the new shop. Thanks......bill
Congratulations on purchasing a new home, and the ability of building your own shop to your own liking! I hope to be doing similar one day! Of course, another great instructional video 😄
Good video. I would recommend filling the transmission with fluid once you seat the axle into the transmission housing before reassembling it all to make sure there are no leaks, because you don't want to find out that the seal is still leaking after everything has been put back!
Love how your videos are so thorough and detailed. Would the passenger side on an AWD Taurus leaking from the seal with the ptu be much more complicated, or is it about the same procedure?
Awesome video Brian. I take it that you moved outside of Chicago and bought a plot of land for your shop and house. I just find it awesome how your businesses are going
Note to all: 2014 Ford Flex---those 2 strut bolts are pressed on and splined into knuckle. After nuts are removed, bolts are tough to get out without air hammer. I had to apply some heat to the bolt head and beat on opposite end with a 10 pound hammer (with nut on to prevent damage to threads). It took a while but finally broke free.
As always a nice video Brian. I noticed on my daughters 2012 Explorer the two large bolts holding the strut to the knuckle are splined for about an inch and a half or so from the head end and I had to use a brass hammer to get them out after removing the nuts. When reassembling, the bolts are a tight fit, I found it easier to use a wrench to screw them into the strut/knuckle until the splines contacted. Then I used the nuts to pull them all the way in. There was no play at all, so I don't believe there would be an alignment issue.
Did a little research, found the bolts were not splined from 11/1/2010 - 8/2/2011. The splined bolts were used after that. You dont need a backup wrench on the bolt head, the splines keep the bolt from rotating while removing the nut.. Also Ford says to not reuse these bolts.
Wow really looking forward to see the new shop! The repair videos you put out on the floor of your garage are about as good as they can get. With a lift in a shop they will be twice as good im sure. Really looking foreword to it
You put out great detailed videos with tons of info for your viewers so it's definitely well deserved. Enjoy the fruits of your labor and it's just going to get better!
Needing to do this for a 2011 MKZ awd I just but for the passenger rear axel seal. On the rear axel you can’t even get a slim 3/8 ratchet in to check the fill plug so I can see the level due to clearance issues.
On some of the Ford Escapes you also have to replace the half shaft due to mfg burrs that tear up the seal. I know from experience after having 3 seals put in.
love the Ford videos, they have helped me in the past. I have a question, I have an 05 extended cab F-150 lariat the rear sliding window doesn't work. I've switched the rear window switch with a known good rear window switch and still nothing. any help would be appreciated. thanks again for the great videos
Great video. Very informative. Congrats on the new home. Can't wait to see it. Isn't blue lock-tite on the axle nut a little overkill? It will only add a require a little bit of extra torque to remove later, not a significant amount. 250 ft/lbs of torque should hold it on there pretty securely don't you think?
+Pet Rock's Garage it's never overkill when it comes to driveline and suspension fasteners. The amount of vibrations they endure is enough for me to put two dabs of loctite on yes.
2008 ford f-150 5.4 3v, had to grind the inner lip to interface the opening to remove the solenoid and screw, a 3/8's drill bit acts like a dremel tool. but it was a good start.
You used a sharpie to mark the original position of the knuckle to strut . Would it help accuracy when reassembling , to also mark that spot ( on the knuckle ) with a scribe ? Great video . ! God bless Wyr
Do you have a video on replacing 6f50 transmission fluid? I didn't see one, but figured I would ask. Thanks for all your videos, they are very helpful.
I own a 2010 Ford f150 specifications Canada, I have a problem in the mapping system can not download maps of the Middle East .. Do you help me you can repeat
CONGRATS!! You all deserve this and so much more. We're all so excited and happy as heck for ya. A lift .... HOLY MOLY Batman you're getting a lift in your home garage. That fricken rocks for sure. I want one too! Who Wouldn't love a lift in their garage? You know Ole Scotty is gonna show up here. Bet He's gonna be a bit jealous.
Doing the same for our Toyota Corolla 2004, I expended nearly 2 hours trying to get the seals in (both sides) I do have a seal tool from Harbor Freight, it fits the seals nicely but no matter what I did, always one side gets in the opposite side out, tapping around it did not help either, used 3 different hammers carefully, nothing, after 2 hours i decided to leave it and will try again tomorrow, my seals looks exactly like the one here and the seal tool very similar. I do not want to tap on the edges of the seal afraid I could destroy it, the position I am in to do this makes it even more difficult as i can only lift the car so much, kneel by the driver side allows me to kind of get in a comfortable position to tap the seal in but even like that i could not drive it in straight; top is in while bottom is completely out and now it doesn't even come out, the passenger side is worst (The engine is out of the bay, only transmission in) I can get my body inside the engine bay then kneel with the car raised to max as the jack allows me under the crossmember frame (two jacks support the car on both sides besides this one for safety) but then again no matter how I pound it in, if I tap hard the seal gets in one side and the other out and if I go gentle tapping nothing happens; this is very frustrating! tomorrow with daylight I will try again, this supposed to be easy!!
Great vid. Brian Do u remember how many quarts of lub. U did add to transmission. ?? And what kind of lub. ?? Regarding Abs wire, it doesn't exist in my 2012 explorer !! Strange indeed
My '08 ford explorer xlt has one front and one rear axle seal leak. I am wondering if it is worth it to replace CV axles or just the seals? Vehicle has 107k miles. Thanks and awesome video!
Getting ready to do this job on my Escape (bushing/seal) I've noticed from your many videos, that it always seems to be the driver's side that fails. Is that due to the CV stub being longer on that side, or is there just not a bushing on the pass side?
Good point that is why I mentioned in the video you can tap it into place with a hammer evenly around the perimeter of the seal these go in very easy. This was a customers vehicle so of course I was going to use the proper tool to get it set perfect for them.
Brian I watch your video's everyday, my Ford F150 has about a 100,00 miles on it.the gas milage is though the roof. whats the best way to get the most from my 5.4 3V its only a 2009?
On some vehicles there is also a seal on the steering knuckle which needs to be replaced whenever the cv joint is removed not sure if this Ford has one.
Hi! Excellent video as always and I don't even own a Ford vehicle. I'm wondering you don't recommend rubbing any oil or grease on the outer surface of the seal that meets the metal. Do you?
Changed it last year and still leaks so my question is could the sound I hear while driving be the axle itself that’s worn out and causes the leak (sounds wobbly and louder as the speed goes up)
Hi Brian, would the procedure be the same/similar to replace the front diff axle seals on my 4x4 2010 Ranger XLT? My front diff seals are leaking... Thanks!
fordtechmakuloco question pls .. what seals are used on the half shaft or intermetate shaft on ford edges awd? the one side i believe nok xe0269e the other side has no no marking that i can see but its very rusty?
I replaced the passenger side cv axle because I heard a clicking when turning. Afterwards I noticed a leak that burns on the exhaust. so I changed the seal just as you did in your video. I still have a leak coming from the seal. Do you have any idea what could cause the leak? Can this be fixed or does the shaft need to be replaced?
we have learned a lot from you and we appreciates that question what about the rear differencial oil on 2011 Taurus SHO when should it be changed? to be honest I have changed the ptu twice and this is my third one so for now I am changing the oil every 25,000 Kilometres for it but never touched the rear one but do I only add oil alone or put fraction fluid with it thanks
Brian, Not only have your videos kept my two Fords running, you also kept me entertained through a six month deployment. I think you help more people and in more ways than you realize.
Thanks I know how boring it can be during downtime when deployed!
@@FordTechMakuloco what is the tool you used to drive the seal in please😍😍😍😍😍😍😍
Thank you for your service and protecting us
Very thorough, best video on axle seal replacement. Usually I have to watch multiple videos to answer questions, after watching tutorials that lack instructions. You have left me with no questions, or the need to do further research on the subject. Thank you for taking pride in your work, and willing to share your knowledge. Awesome!!
that was one of the best tech videos ive ever seen ! you addressed all the difficult areas and i always wondered how to punch the axle back into the transmission. plunging it is excellent. was never sure if that would harm the joint or not but now i know. outstanding video and camera work too
Just did this last night, awesome video man. Thanks!!! I used a short piece of 2x4 to pound my seal in and it worked great, and purchased the seal puller on amazon which also worked great. I drained the Trans fluid first through the drain plug, which usually ends up being around 5.5 quarts and nothing came out of the seal doing it that way. On a 2014 Limited the strut bolts were splined on the left side but just on the left side of the strut itself not in the spindle. With the seal and puller it was around $30, not including trans fluid. Took a couple hours, well worth doing.
Congratulations on the new home and shop. You deserve it bro. Your tour across America helping Ford owners that were in need says it all. Keep up the great work.
Thanks!
My wife's SUV was leaking transmission fluid, 1/2 quart per day. I saved myself a ton of money by watching this video and I did the job myself. It only took two hours working at a slow pace while being careful. Thanks for the video! You da man!
Best video of of this job I have ever seen! And I have watched many. Your video gave me the confidence to fix my daughter's 2012 fusion. Many Thanks!
Glad your doing fine Brian. Your and other repair videos on YT help myself tremendously. Keep them coming. coldbear.
I’m seriously impressed with your explanation of this job. Ford wants 2300 for my 2015 explorer. No reason I can’t do this with your video!
Brian congratulations on your new home. You deserve it. And yes a LIFT. SWEET
Congratulations on your upcoming move. Looking forward to seeing more repair videos on your new shop. Keep up the great work. You rock !
Thanks it is definitely an exciting time!
Thanks. Clear straight forward and methodical. Brian , you are a pro. I have learned so much from you.
Excellent in every way. Thanks. I hope you and your family are safe and healthy six years later.
great job as always. it is so great to see what I'm getting into before starting it myself.
oh man a dedicated shop with a lift, how awesome is that! congrats
Great job Brian. Like the drones in the back ground!!
Thank you for all your help. 2011f150ecoboost engine rattle @startup ,has been repaired,under warranty. your video saved my a**.
God to hear!
Great video! You always cover everything in detail. Thanks.
congrats on the move to a new shop
Great video Brian. Can't wait to see the new shop being built.
Me too!
I'ma tell ya... You helped me get my truck on the road again when I was hit by this crazy economy... My F250 2006 4x4, 5.4 engine is running pretty good... From the solenoids, differential oil, to the stuck spark plugs (7 of them), serpentine belt, and cleaning out a/c unit with just blowing it while on the car from the engine wall, to knowing that I will need to change my phazers real soon. You are a champ! The best that I have seen explain it to the exact. I changed my rear wheels seals, too. Some day I can thank you better when I get back on my feet. A gift or something...
Great video...I'm replacing 2 axles in a Taurus now..Nice R/C collection..like the summits
Great video Brian.
I don't have an AWD Explorer, but still enjoy watching the very professional way you explain and perform these repairs. Hope someday you will do the repair on the drivers side third row seat actuator of 2006 Explorers. Seems to be a common problem. Look forward to seeing the new shop. Thanks......bill
Congratulations on purchasing a new home, and the ability of building your own shop to your own liking! I hope to be doing similar one day! Of course, another great instructional video 😄
Yeah I really feel lucky to be able to do it so quickly like this.
I don't currently own a Ford but your video is very informative. I think I could do that myself now.
Thanks!!
Good video. I would recommend filling the transmission with fluid once you seat the axle into the transmission housing before reassembling it all to make sure there are no leaks, because you don't want to find out that the seal is still leaking after everything has been put back!
Great video. Will help me immensely on an up coming axle replacement job on the wife’s 16’ MKX. Thank you God bless.
Love how your videos are so thorough and detailed. Would the passenger side on an AWD Taurus leaking from the seal with the ptu be much more complicated, or is it about the same procedure?
I wish they all came out that easy! Thanks!
The only seals I have a problem with is the rear diff pinion and axle seals with the adhesive on them.
Great video. This will help alot with replacing my axle seal on my 4x4 2008 Lincoln Navigator.
Awesome video Brian. I take it that you moved outside of Chicago and bought a plot of land for your shop and house. I just find it awesome how your businesses are going
We are only moving about 2 miles away we are already outside the city now but much more space.
Well done. I love your carefullness. You probably never add time to the job because you are so carefull.
Great job Brian!! Thank you!!
Note to all: 2014 Ford Flex---those 2 strut bolts are pressed on and splined into knuckle. After nuts are removed, bolts are tough to get out without air hammer. I had to apply some heat to the bolt head and beat on opposite end with a 10 pound hammer (with nut on to prevent damage to threads). It took a while but finally broke free.
thank you for your help and advice
As always a nice video Brian. I noticed on my daughters 2012 Explorer the two large bolts holding the strut to the knuckle are splined for about an inch and a half or so from the head end and I had to use a brass hammer to get them out after removing the nuts. When reassembling, the bolts are a tight fit, I found it easier to use a wrench to screw them into the strut/knuckle until the splines contacted. Then I used the nuts to pull them all the way in. There was no play at all, so I don't believe there would be an alignment issue.
Did a little research, found the bolts were not splined from 11/1/2010 - 8/2/2011. The splined bolts were used after that. You dont need a backup wrench on the bolt head, the splines keep the bolt from rotating while removing the nut.. Also Ford says to not reuse these bolts.
Wow really looking forward to see the new shop! The repair videos you put out on the floor of your garage are about as good as they can get. With a lift in a shop they will be twice as good im sure. Really looking foreword to it
Yup camera angles, lighting, space, shop equipment all is going to be much much better!
Thank you for your help and advice, Good video
Greetings from Amsterdam.
Dude you’re awesome!
right on Brian! that is awesome news!
Definitely!
Excellent video. Thank you.
Great news on the dedicated shop. Oh yeah, the house too! LOL
Nice video Brian & congratulations on the new house!
Thanks it's gonna be great I still cannot believe this is all happening!
You put out great detailed videos with tons of info for your viewers so it's definitely well deserved. Enjoy the fruits of your labor and it's just going to get better!
Excellent video
Good video thanks for sharing
Thanks for another great video.
it is crazy how ford did thst drastic change on the explorers,love the 3rd and 4th gen better
Congrats!!
great video on how to simplify something that looks kind of Rough.
It amazes me that more people wouldn't wont to see this
Needing to do this for a 2011 MKZ awd I just but for the passenger rear axel seal. On the rear axel you can’t even get a slim 3/8 ratchet in to check the fill plug so I can see the level due to clearance issues.
Good luck at the new homestead, hope you get that new shop with a lift save your body!
Me too it will be so nice.
congratulations best wishes.
On some of the Ford Escapes you also have to replace the half shaft due to mfg burrs that tear up the seal. I know from experience after having 3 seals put in.
+Michael James yup I have videos on that too for the 6F35 in the Escape and Fusion
love the Ford videos, they have helped me in the past. I have a question, I have an 05 extended cab F-150 lariat the rear sliding window doesn't work. I've switched the rear window switch with a known good rear window switch and still nothing. any help would be appreciated. thanks again for the great videos
I hear ya there. Heck you can even performance vehicles as well as your daily drivers. Just ideas for future videos. I appreciate your videos
I may be doing as supercharger install on a Dodge Challenger this spring over on my BSG Automotive channel.
That's awesome! I'm hoping you can do performance stuff on ford's as well. Anything from mild to wild performance as well as your regular repairs
I see it's the same one your did the valve cover on.
Actually noticed the stained air filter before the shiny clean cover.
+CamperMike Yup many problems on this one first year of the new generation Explorer
Congratulations. Can not wait. You have saved me alot of money following you. So i am going to subscribe to your page. Thank's .Jim
Great video. Very informative. Congrats on the new home. Can't wait to see it.
Isn't blue lock-tite on the axle nut a little overkill? It will only add a require a little bit of extra torque to remove later, not a significant amount. 250 ft/lbs of torque should hold it on there pretty securely don't you think?
+Pet Rock's Garage it's never overkill when it comes to driveline and suspension fasteners. The amount of vibrations they endure is enough for me to put two dabs of loctite on yes.
2008 ford f-150 5.4 3v, had to grind the inner lip to interface the opening to remove the solenoid and screw, a 3/8's drill bit acts like a dremel tool. but it was a good start.
Great job! Noticed there was no hub center cap, is there none on these vehicles? You look happy about your new shop, congrats!
My front tires don't have center hub caps. Maybe it's just a back tire thing.
You used a sharpie to mark the original position of the knuckle to strut . Would it help accuracy when reassembling , to also mark that spot ( on the knuckle ) with a scribe ?
Great video . !
God bless
Wyr
Nice video
nice job man. GET THAT NEW SHOP DONE ! Joe
The faster the better I need to master plan it first.
Do you have a video on replacing 6f50 transmission fluid? I didn't see one, but figured I would ask. Thanks for all your videos, they are very helpful.
You can just follow my 6f35 video they are quite similar.
Hello sir, First I would like to thanks to the beauty of your explanation, 'I am follower your channel from Kuwait
I own a 2010 Ford f150 specifications Canada, I have a problem in the mapping system can not download maps of the Middle East .. Do you help me you can repeat
CONGRATS!! You all deserve this and so much more. We're all so excited and happy as heck for ya. A lift .... HOLY MOLY Batman you're getting a lift in your home garage. That fricken rocks for sure. I want one too! Who Wouldn't love a lift in their garage? You know Ole Scotty is gonna show up here. Bet He's gonna be a bit jealous.
Great job, working on my 2012 Ford Edge SEL, how may oil seals in this transfer case? thanks,
Doing the same for our Toyota Corolla 2004, I expended nearly 2 hours trying to get the seals in (both sides) I do have a seal tool from Harbor Freight, it fits the seals nicely but no matter what I did, always one side gets in the opposite side out, tapping around it did not help either, used 3 different hammers carefully, nothing, after 2 hours i decided to leave it and will try again tomorrow, my seals looks exactly like the one here and the seal tool very similar. I do not want to tap on the edges of the seal afraid I could destroy it, the position I am in to do this makes it even more difficult as i can only lift the car so much, kneel by the driver side allows me to kind of get in a comfortable position to tap the seal in but even like that i could not drive it in straight; top is in while bottom is completely out and now it doesn't even come out, the passenger side is worst (The engine is out of the bay, only transmission in) I can get my body inside the engine bay then kneel with the car raised to max as the jack allows me under the crossmember frame (two jacks support the car on both sides besides this one for safety) but then again no matter how I pound it in, if I tap hard the seal gets in one side and the other out and if I go gentle tapping nothing happens; this is very frustrating! tomorrow with daylight I will try again, this supposed to be easy!!
Great vid. Brian
Do u remember how many quarts of lub. U did add to transmission. ??
And what kind of lub. ??
Regarding Abs wire, it doesn't exist in my 2012 explorer !! Strange indeed
Nice traxxas summit's!!!! 👌
My '08 ford explorer xlt has one front and one rear axle seal leak. I am wondering if it is worth it to replace CV axles or just the seals? Vehicle has 107k miles. Thanks and awesome video!
Great video as always. I see the bearing behind the seal are you able to pull that bearing out as well if you want to replace it?
Getting ready to do this job on my Escape (bushing/seal)
I've noticed from your many videos, that it always seems to be the driver's side that fails. Is that due to the CV stub being longer on that side, or is there just not a bushing on the pass side?
Not to many DIYers have that seal driver tool. You should have showed us how to install the seal with something we have around the garage.
Good point that is why I mentioned in the video you can tap it into place with a hammer evenly around the perimeter of the seal these go in very easy. This was a customers vehicle so of course I was going to use the proper tool to get it set perfect for them.
Excelent thank you very much i wanna replace drive axle and same time seal axle I didn’t know how hard was but now ..look easy thanks
These days just rent from autozone!
Add trans fluid to check for leaks before putting everything back.
Brian I watch your video's everyday, my Ford F150 has about a 100,00 miles on it.the gas milage is though the roof.
whats the best way to get the most from my 5.4 3V its only a 2009?
The bolts on these aren't like the ones on the trucks,one time only use? Thanks for the videos.
Do you have any video showing how to replace the motor and transmission mounts on a f150?
Question rear axle seal 2009 Edge can u just remove the wheel bearing and pull the axle thru the knuckle? Nic vid Cheers
Congratz on the new Hut FordTech! Much deserved!
Thanks!
awesome, I am guessing you are looking forward to having a lift again
Yes big time!
how do you know there is not a inner bearing causing problems as there were with other ford transmissions?
On some vehicles there is also a seal on the steering knuckle which needs to be replaced whenever the cv joint is removed not sure if this Ford has one.
Hi! Excellent video as always and I don't even own a
Ford vehicle. I'm wondering you don't recommend rubbing any oil or grease on the outer surface of the seal that meets the metal. Do you?
Changed it last year and still leaks so my question is could the sound I hear while driving be the axle itself that’s worn out and causes the leak (sounds wobbly and louder as the speed goes up)
way to go looks like you tube bought you a new home lol😄
+Desmond Blyan pretty much the wife works really hard too making this all happen.
Good stuff looks like you worked hard and deserve every bit
Thank you
Hi Brian, would the procedure be the same/similar to replace the front diff axle seals on my 4x4 2010 Ranger XLT? My front diff seals are leaking...
Thanks!
That seal was fine for a while i want to see mine talk about oil all over my drive way 😂😂😂
Thanks for the video. Is that amount of movement normal? (When you grabbed the mixed the inner cv after fitting).
can you please put a link in the description for a seal installer tool that will work on a 1997 ford escort? thanks
fordtechmakuloco question pls .. what seals are used on the half shaft or intermetate shaft on ford edges awd? the one side i believe nok xe0269e the other side has no no marking that i can see but its very rusty?
On the ptu passenger side. Do you have a part number for plastic deflector installer? Or what you use
Thanks, Brian for the video. How much should a shop charge for labor for this job?
Nice to have a new shop with a lift, that was always my dream, a lift.
It will be great the best part of it all.
Hi!
Will you tell me about the reliability of 6F35 to 2013 Ford Escape, please.
And how often you used to change oil fluid in 6F35.
30k the first time and every 60k miles after.
I replaced the passenger side cv axle because I heard a clicking when turning. Afterwards I noticed a leak that burns on the exhaust. so I changed the seal just as you did in your video. I still have a leak coming from the seal. Do you have any idea what could cause the leak? Can this be fixed or does the shaft need to be replaced?
we have learned a lot from you and we appreciates that
question what about the rear differencial oil on 2011 Taurus SHO when should it be changed?
to be honest I have changed the ptu twice and this is my third one so for now I am changing the oil every 25,000 Kilometres for it but never touched the rear one
but do I only add oil alone or put fraction fluid with it
thanks
All you need is 80w-90 for the rear diff- amzn.to/2ip6Ukk
In reality these can go 60k miles before they should be changed out on the Taurus whereas on a truck that tows I would say every 30k miles.
FordTechMakuloco how many quarts for the rear diff. ??
I replaced the cv axles on my 2006 f150. The driver side piece that the axle goes bolted to slipped out, it’s leaking now. Should I replace the seal?
Great video! Who makes that seal installer ?