I learned left foot braking to engage the LSD on my Tacoma and increase the torque to the wheels. Once I added the Truetrac to the rear The combination has allowed me to tackle every obstacle I have attempted. I wish they made it for my front diff.
@@damingallo1 i would run a truetrack over a standard LSD for alot of reasons. The biggest reason is they are essentially zero Maintenance no clutches and no special fluid additives.
I've had a Truetrac in the rear of my 2wd Ranger for a year now. The TT gives max bias at near zero wheel RPM - something a clutch-type LSD cannot. All around excellent choice for a little truck that is driven on slimy roads and in the snow - huge improvement over the OEM open diff. Very happy with the Truetrac.
Awsome video man!! Cant find any videos on people review after installing DTT instead of lockers, and people making review about DTT dont seem to know about brake bias! Wish you make more videos like this in the trails!
Thanks!! Before I bought them I only found one video of how to use them with the brakes. That is why I made this vid. So glad it helped you and I will be making more videos.
I installed truetrak on my 96 f150 and Yukon 3:31 Ring n pinion. Utah mountains in snow. Never slipped a tire. I think they are fantastic. Did all the work myself. Towed camper and put 20,000 miles on this system in 4 months. Great product
I bought a set of these for a Landrover after watching this video. I'm really happy with the offroad performance. They have effortless traction. Just point the truck where you want it to go. Thankyou for your informative video and sharing your tricks to getting the best out of them
Nice demonstration. I’ve had 4 of them on 4 jeeps and like them very much for the types of traction-loss situations you’re showing. They are hard to beat in snow and slimy conditions. They last forever and are better than all other clutch limited slips out there. Better mannered than a clicky lunch box licker too.
One of the best vids for showing a TrueTrac in action. Thanks for posting. I just put a TrueTrac in the front of my '80 GMC and about to put a Detroit Locker in the rear. I'm sure it'll be a great combination.
Could you expand on that? I'm considering one for my rear axle with a 6 speed manual. I figured it wouldn't be too hard to apply some braking while in low range or even engage the hand/parking brake.
@@timsilva1944 I is very difficult to do but it is doable by heal-toeing the brake and throttle with your right foot. I don't rock crawl too often where I need to do it. If you're going to have one rear wheel in the air on a regular basis I would go with the different traction device but if that only ever happens once in a blue moon, then these things are great. They drive so nice on the road and perform fantastically in the snow, mud, and sand.
@@theadventuregeneralist7024 Thanks for your input! It seems the best fit for me as I have a winch and don't plan on doing rock crawling as much as the snow, mud or sand as you mentioned. Plus it just works without having to throw a switch or be concerned about another failure point. I have dirt bikes for the gnarly stuff and would rather not be breaking drivetrain parts in the rocks.👍
I have an excursion with factory limited slip. I got stuck and only one wheel was spinning. Was i supposed to hit the brake and the gas at the same time? I’m here because I’m looking for different options now 😅
You can try that but the factory limited slip has clutches that allow the slip and with age and use the clutches don’t work as well as new, that wasn’t very good then.
I am very impressed by how well they performed with a bit of brake pressure. I run Detroit auto lockers in my Jeep and they are a dream on the trail, but they take some finesse to keep them behaved on the street. If my Jeep were any less trail focused I might have been tempted by the TrueTrac.
Thanks for the demo! Very helpful tips on how to engage TRUE-TRAC. I just put a set of these front and rear in my 93 Cherokee along with 4:56 regear. Haven't had a chance to get it on the trail yet, but feel a little more confident after seeing your video. Greetings from the Mojave Desert!
Great video, I have a Miata with a Torsten diff. (similar category to the Truetrac) The Torsten helps in the deep snow, steep dirt hills and easy trails. The hand brake is your friend. Tires used are Goodyear Ultragrip winters due to their a/t style tread, they work well in most situations.
After numerous lockers and their failures which also destroys the bearings/gears. I went with these eaton true tracks front and back in my XJ. Very impressed with these. I almost forget I have them until im off-road.
True Trac is a torque-bias diff. A limit slip has a clutch-pack. So the true-trac isn't a limited-slip. And a Locker isn't a differential. Very good example of the True Trac in a trail situation. I don't understand how anyone can think that a Locker is satisfactory on a trail. Rock crawl...OK. Good video, thank you.
at last a valid honest opinion on this kind of diff i was swaying between air locker and the Ashcroft ATB for my wife's defender and as the ATB is the same type as the Eaton one this just pushed me to the fit and forget as it is not going to be a full on rock crawling vehicle but more of an expedition where lockers will need occasional use. great video thanks.
I've been thinking about setting my 1980 chevy k20 up with thees. I have never once heard of this and would have been pissed to have found out after I put them in. This is a big deal when building a drive train. Oh I still want them and will be getting them, I'm just happy to have found your review before I put then in. Thanks man.
Does the front end push more than an open diff when you accelerate while turning? I would expect the helical to lock together when under acceleration and both tires have traction, which should act like turning with a front locker engaged. For example, accelerating through a corner on rainy asphalt, would it tend to want to push wide?
The simple answer is yes. But the only time I found it doing that is on the road with ice. Cant say about mud, Colorado is pretty dry. The interesting thing is if there is traction available like in snow the diff seems to find traction. If one tire starts to spin the torque will go to the other side and back and forth and works really well to keep you moving forward. Remember even if you hold the brake at very low speed to get it to “lock” it’s not 100% locked. If the front starts to push you let off the gas and it bites and goes straight again. I have an Eaton e-locker in my Bronco so I know how having the front locked will cause issues.
Hey thanks for the video i just bought the Trutrac diff and didnt quite know how to use it in my tahoe it originally had the g80 but now i know the key is brake pressure 💯
I didn't even know I had truetraks on my wrangler until I pulled off the diff cover. I always attributed my traction to tires and flex. but I'm guessig the truetraks probably helped. I absolutely recommend them front and rear.
I have a 2003 F-150 SuperCrew four-wheel drive I've got the exact same 456 gears eating true track front and back. But sadly between the winch bumper I have on the front and the ladder rack and the toolbox I have a heavy truck and I'll tell you that eating true track is amazing
Own 2 Jeeps, a '96 ZJ, and a '23 JLU. The older Jeep has a Dana 44 rear rear axle with a Trutrac. The new one I bought secifically with open diffs to upgrade to the Weld74 portals. It is a Sport S Altitude, and the money I did not spend on the higher level trims. Wild allow me to have a more capable vehicle for less money. I don't rock crawl per se, but mostly do overlanding. When I encounter deep rain ruts and rock falls on dirt roads. I want more ground clearance. We also have a Ram 2500 Cummins powered 4wd. The rear Trutrac works nice, but I will add a Trutrac in the front when I regear for larger tires.
My TrueTrac is great. It is not a locker, but it gets the job done very well without a clutch pack found in a traditional posi. I doubt it was designed with rock crawling as an application. It does great keeping me from getting stuck in typical mud and snow situations.
Great looking rig. I’m doing the same thing with my 2000 Ford Expedition. It’s served me well over the years and I will never part with it for it’s like having an reliable friend. May I ask where you got that rear bumper???
Great vid. It’s not about opinions, there are facts: 1. For full-on extreme off roading, go air locker/elocker/detroit locker. 1(a) The Compromise is added complexity…wiring, compressor etc etc. 2. Try LSD type diffs, but don’t be disappointed if YOU fail to understand their limitations. Choose the right diff!! 3. Just look at the BS that Landrover et al go through to achieve good road handlng and ‘great’ off road capability: traction control braking wheels, jerky intermittent progress, computers galore, to compensate for stiff suspension and sway bars. If you want the best of both worlds, you need positive lockers and a brain to use them
Thanks! Exactly! I wheel with a bunch of new Broncos and they have lockers and the electronics are always turning them off because of too much “protection” by the computer. If something doesn’t look right it says “sorry, I’m saving myself and all is off” “call a tow truck”.
I understand why the front didn't engage initially with one wheel in the air. I'm curious as to why the rear didn't engage at roughly 3:00 in the video. Both wheels were on the ground. Shouldn't the truetrac engage once wheel slip is detected on the one side?
I wonder how helpful that would be in my truck. 98 F150, but with a 5speed manual. I'm thinking it would be tough to overcome an obstacle using the brake, gas, AND trying not to kill the engine. Seems great if you have an automatic though. Much easier to utilize. Thoughts? Thoughts
I absolutely LOVE my "lunchbox" lockers on my relatively light Suzuki Samurai. I unlock the front hubs so the lunchbox is no issue in the front when on the pavement. On the rear, they will sometimes pop loose somewhat violently, but generally the sammy is so light, the rears just scrub a bit on turns, but being light, it's not even noticed, and after years, I don't see any tire wear issues. I'm sure lunchboxes would not be great on a heavier vehicle, but for the sammy they are unmatched; just a perfect front/rear setup.
The lunchbox style lockers have the same basic design as true lockers just smaller. I find it interesting when people talk of true lockers that they wear tires more on the street. Driving off road in rocks and gravel wear tires much faster so I don’t even worry about that. In my Bronco that I use for mostly trails has a Yukon Grizzly locker in the rear and a Eaton e-locker in the front. I like the e-locker in the front mostly because the Dana 44 isn’t strong enough so I only engage the locker if I need it. But that set up is much more expensive then lunchbox setup.
Well I learned something new. I put a truetrack in the back of my 05 Dodge Ram 2500 about 6 years ago. I’ve had posi in a few trucks, but this is my first gear drive diff. Never knew how it worked. Pull my Toyhauler no problem through the sand/desert/mud/snow. I figured it worked just like a posi. Now I know. Harder the brake, the more traction you get. Seems counter productive. Thank you. Very informative. 👍
I have a true track in my deisel 2x4 f250. Prior to having it, I called my truck "one wheel drive"... Flat ground, wet grass, heavy motor= stuck every time... I was very hesitant to purchasing... With the True track... Never misses a beat, even in mud... With the true track on pavement, it will slightly lock if you "apply power" while cornering but No power not problem... (Think exit ramp off freeway, just drift)
Thanks for the vid! I have a Ford 2014 E350 Sportsmobile QuadVan conversion with Eaton in the front and factory LS differentials in the rear. We do like to go off roading/over landing, but because the van took me two years to find and cost a pretty penny, I know I will not be tempted to do any serious rock crawling without a locker for two reasons: 1. I only want to attempt things the van will successfully do, and 2. I really do not want to damage my vehicle, it’s too mint. So this video was informative in that it presented the limitations. Thanks!
Hello! Great video and nice truck! I’m contemplating putting a truetrac both front and rear in a 2010 f150 super crew, but am wondering if that will be an issue with a lot of daily street driving too? It’s not a rock crawler but I do not like essentially having 2wd while in 4wd.
With a manual transmission, I wonder if the procedure using the brakes and power, would be more difficult? Mainly due to the risk of stalling. With the automatic you had the advantage of stopping the vehicle and infinite slow speed crawl while modulating the power/brakes.
Great review I was curious about the off road performance, alot of people recommended this unit to me but no one could tell me how they really do on trails
excellent video, I would like to know more about this experience, because I have an automatic Ford Explorer M96 and I need a more appropriate 4x4 on my farm in Colombia. Thank you
Just a thought about a helical vs open diff. The helical becomes an open diff when one wheel is unloaded. So they are effectively the same in this state. The solution to both situations is the same, it's holding the unimpeded wheel to transfer torque to the other one, as you demonstrate. So, could you just use the same braking technique with an open diff, and get the same effect?
I have done that with an open diff and sometimes it can get you through an obstacle but the helical set up works differently and the technique is more effective. Thanks for watching!
I am looking at this style for my Vans (2 of them) which both are 2WD.... One is going to be set up for Towing/Camping 90% ON-ROAD....Campgrounds (as you know) are notorious for poor traction situations...Mud/Grass/Wet Boat Ramps... The other is more of a "Street Van" 100% ON-ROAD which its traction is limited by the fact it has considerable Horsepower/Torque, and Though I won't be doing any type of "Burnout Contests" or goofy crap like that...I JUST want it to hook up and GO on bare tar...As it is now with the 350hp engine (with 425lb-ft torque - Almost TWICE what it had, stock) it allows the worthless "One Wheel Peel" 3.25:1 - 9" Ford to make single stripes thru First and Second gear (Ford C6)....Up to like 60mph, if I try...LOL....and this style DIFF has been recommended to me for BOTH as most of my situations may be limited traction, but rarely in a ZERO traction situation.... I know you can't make recommendations on the very little information I supplied. But I know you have a LOT of experience with this style...Does this sound like a "Fairly Good Fit" - Or should I explore other options.... *Thanks in Advance*
Sounds like a great fit, it will be better than any clutch style limited slip. A Detroit auto locker style will lock and spin your inside tire at all stop sign turns, a e-locker or air locker has to be switched on to work so if you are spinning you have to stop to engage that style, TruTracs just work when you need them and will never wear out like a clutch limited slip. Good luck with your build.
Thanks for the info. Unfortunately I don't think Eaton makes one for the Ford Super 8.8 rear diff that I need. I think I'm going to have to go with the Yukon Traclock LSD. I would rather have the Eaton, I just wish they made one for mine.
THEY DO, NOW! as of 9/23/2024. We have one coming on the brown truck later this week! Go0gle the name of the unit and you may find other sellers. My purveyor of diffness is Stage3Motorsports. Will have it installed in my '16 5.0 F150 some time in October. Cheers!
I put true tracs front and rear with 4.10s in my jeep yj and have no regrets they do have there limits with a standard transmission if you get stopped on a steep hill with one wheel off the ground it gets interesting but still glad with my choice ,if I was rock crawling all the time the better choice would be lockers
Yo thank you so much for this..i installed one in the rear of my dakota 2 months ago and thought it was blipping the brake to fully lock them.you literally ride the brake going up watever obstacle its slipping on..great clarifcation. Its completly unnoticable on roads so far. One thing for sure its very beefy full of metal compared to the cast steel open spider set up. Will be doing one on the front
Your welcome, so glad it helped. Some times I have to sit at the bottom of an obstacle and hold the brake and not release it at all, just push on the gas pedal until the truck moves and they stay locked. Don't be afraid to really apply brake pressure.
@@markwickk Not exactly, as I say in the video. It is a very good limited slip diff. If both wheels are on the ground it works better than a clutch limited slip.
Great Video. Question, once the DTT engages, do you need to continue to apply brake bias? For my stock Jeep Sport, I was thinking a DTT in the rear and a E-locker in the front and a 2.5 lift for bigger tires. Also considering re-gearing for larger tires at the same time. No need to open the diff's twice.
You really only have to use brake bias when you lift a tire. Wranglers, especially if you disconnect the front sway bar, do an excellent job of keeping tires on the ground. I have a DTT in the rear of my 2014 Jeep Wrangler Sport JK. I have a 2.5 lift and 33” tires. I ride with a Jeep club that does some pretty aggressive wheeling and have never had to use brake bias to engage by DTT because Of how well it keeps tires on the ground. But I can tell a dramatic increase in traction. Obstacles that used to be difficult or impossible for me are now fairly easy.
If you apply the brakes and gas at the same time in the snow seems weard. I bought an Eaton E locker but have got it wired up yet. I don't really even need 4x4 most of the time unless I'm in deep snow with these boggers.
I’m sorry that you got that from the video, the only time you apply the brakes is when a wheel comes off the ground. In all other scenarios it works without any input. I also have a Bronco with a e-locker and that is the only way to get 100% lock between both sides. The TrueTrac works best in snow and slippery road surfaces. If you engage a locker it will be much more difficult to keep the vehicle going straight and if you lock the front the vehicle will not turn and that’s a bad thing. So locker in the front for crawling rocks and TrueTrac for everything else.
Great video, perfect display of works.and being a regular blue collar dude on a budget I always wondered about other alternatives, well that answered my questions and might be going that route myself!!!
Finally a video where someone gets tires in the air and shoes how a Trutrac engages! I was worried that you couldn’t get power to the wheel once it goes in the air, but apparently you can, so I’m gonna get one in my Sequoia!
I'd always heard that this is how they work, but never seen it demonstrated. Super cool the way you rotated around that rock too! Like an on/off switch you can manipulate at will for open vs locked diff.
It's really nice finding your video I just had my complete rear end rebuilt on my F-350 and had them put in a truetrack locker have a Dana 60 waiting and a brand new truetrack locker to put under the front end so it's a bit beefier. Tired of the one wheel spin. That way when I pull the lever I have all four
I liked the stock g80 and was trying to get a Detroit locker in the rear of my truck but they were at least 6 months out on back order. So i went with the truetrac.. i haven't been in a situation where i got stuck, but i think half way engaging the ebrake (which is connected to both rear tires since i have the disc conversion kit) should accomplish the same thing as feathering the regular brake right?
Well that was interesting. Were I building a crawler I'd look for other options. One thing you didn't speak to is the performance on compromised paved surfaces: ice, snow, water, that sort of thing. Do you have to use the brake in those ?
I did in my other video, I have a Bronco I use for rock crawling and I use a Grizzly locker in the rear and a e-locker in the front. The only time you need to use the brake is when a wheel is off the ground, all other times it works like a limited slip.
That was excellent. It let me know that it's not right for my manual transmission jeep. Trying apply breaks and clutch and throttle on an obstacle doesn't sound fun. Looks great for automatic
You might have considered a Detroit Locker in the rear for this type of activity. Those things are beasts and are with you 100% of the time. Your wheelbase would have given you advantage over the slight driving differences the Detroit creates when turning. I loved mine. Great video for sure.
Thanks, wanted too have better street manners then a true locker gives. I use a Yukon locker in my Bronco and I think it performs better then a Detroit I had years ago. It never bangs or pops when it engages and will disengage smooth too.
would you recommend this for a 2wd who wants a little more traction offroad (getting to remote camping spots) but doesn't want to spend nearly 2grand on a locker?
do you hold down the brake and step on the gas in the car and it goes? you step on the brake together with the gas of the car and you suddenly release the brake and it starts you off,
Nice setup, I've been looking to add twin helical's to my '97 Expy as well, but as it's 95% street driven (some light gravel/dirt roads occasionally and boat ramps) and already has a clutch style rear it's an expensive bullet to bite. I feel they are the best LSD as long as you aren't trying to drift, I've added on to my '90 240sx that I've done some auto-x with but mainly street drive and do 1/4 mi with and my '10 Civic Si dd has one in the front from the factory. For the more serious off-roading you are doing a clutch style in the rear have have been smarter, more consistent and would never get to the 'full open feel' that helical's can when one tire has ZERO traction. Might have saved you $100 or so in parts too. Obviously a full locker would be best for off-roading but you can't run that on the street at all in the front safely, could've done an E-locker too but I think the helical was the right move. Way better than an open and can give you a ton of traction on pavement if you needed in snow or heavy rain.
I have been off roading for 40 years from Early Broncos with a Detroit to Rangers with Traction Locs to ARB lockers. I also autocrossed a SVO Mustang with a factory Traction Loc that I repacked every race to a SS Camaro with a Torsion T2R. So I'm very familiar with diffs. I wanted to try something different mainly in the front. I love the ability to apply the brakes to get the diff to put power to the wheel with grip. I also like to way they act like a locker when both wheels are on the ground. Thanks for watching.
*EDIT:* ALSO the original video poster can answer this too, since he has so much experience with differentials. You say torsen diffs like the truetrac aren't good for drifting... In that case, if I wanted a "do it all" diff that I didn't have to constantly rebuild, for a mostly street driven "sport" vehicle with the occasional rip on a gravel road as well as some casual "drifting", donuts/powerslide circles, casual test n tune drag racing every other weekend, and maybe a track day or autocross... Basically, the only thing I won't do in the vehicle is crawl/trail because it's not 4wd and I don't like going slow. Though I also won't be competing with it, just having fun, and 90% of the time, it'll be on the street and daily driven, just with the goon shit in between.
@@Drunken_Hamster There is a little opinion with that, while I think the helical is best for traction/safety and can do everything a clutch style will do but drift/hold power slides smoothly, it's seldom worth the extra cost over a clutch style when you are adding an LSD to a car/truck. Hence why it was such a popular factory LSD, cost for the performance is just better. A clutch style will still offer better than 90% of the drag racing and even auto-x performance that a helical will, and will be very consistent when trying to hold the rear sideways. Where it is weaker is in a FWD setting where you can't have a clutch style as the tires will bind up and slid in turns or in a slick situation like snow/ice where a helical will 'find' traction better and put the power there between the two tires, a clutch will hold both more evenly between them and it may take a moment longer to pull yourself out. Not saying a clutch style is bad, just mildly less efficient. It's rare that you would need to rebuild a clutch style in your ownership of the car. They can wear out, but they outlive the warranty in factory cars and when not abused or pushing more power than the car came with seldom do wear out. Where it's a bigger issue would be say a muscle car that the owner put two or three times the power through as well as added sticker tires and beat on it, that all adds stress to the clutch packs and they will need a rebuild/upgrade. in a mostly street driven car with stock(ish) power you should easily get 10yrs or more out of one. Viscus LSD's do wear much harder and afaik aren't rebuild able, Nissan uses them in a lot of their OEM situations.
@@MastaPaco4Life Yeah, in my application there's definitely going to be 3x the stock power as well as some mild to moderate abuse. At least eventually. And when it comes to clutch style vs helical cost for my application, if I get an AFTERMARKET clutch style (which is presumably better and stronger, and can be 1.5 and 2 way instead of just 1 way) the cost is about the same. So for me, it's between a factory trac-loc (ford 8.8 axle) which can come in my axle swap cost of $300 for the junkyard pull, and $600 for rebuild and upgrade, OR it'll be the junkyard pulled axle with rebuild plus a roughly $1000 detroit tru-trac like the OP has, since all the other aftermarket limited slip carriers for it are also $700+ For reference, the application is my 09 Ranger which I plan to turbocharge. Everything on it aside from the axle (stock is a 7.5" 28 spline, but a 95-01 expy 8.8" 31 spline axle bolts right up) and fuel pump is good for 300 wheel. If I nab a 2.5 duratec out of another car, that block will also bolt right in (same BH pattern on all Duratec and 4-cyl ecoboost variants) and I only have to change some sensors and such and the stock ECU will run it. That gets me to 500whp capability if I get a different trans, so the axle and diff will, in the future, be seeing roughly up to 500whp and like 400lb-ft and I'll be taking it to the strip every other weekend or so for a night of fun, but generally driving spiritedly and doing goon stuff in between. Just no competition work.
@@starksexpeditions121 @jake32401 are you talking specifically about front or rear, or both..? I'm thinking a true trac in the back on my F250 and an air or e-locker in the front, but don't know what the most all-purpose solution is. Main traction problem where I live will be snow and ice, with muddy roads and mudholes a distant second. But I don't want to spend the money on something and learn later I should have gone a different route.
@@chriswithrow3107A TrueTrac in the front in snow and ice will make the front not track as good as an open diff. So sounds like in your conditions a locker in the front would be good so if you need a locker you can engage that on demand. I had that setup in a Ranger years ago. In super deep snow I would lock in the front and good through but unlocked for icy and light snow roads. Lockers front and rear is the ultimate set up, you have all options available. It is also the most expensive and you need an air compressor. Air lockers are problematic in very cold temps. Moisture freezes in the lines and I had a internal o-ring fail. Never had a e-locker (have a factory one in my F150 but don't off road it) so can't speak for them.
@@chriswithrow3107 It is just a good limited slip, it will power both wheels so you can go sideways but the same as every factory LSD. But they don't wear out clutches like that style diff.
The CV broke because I modified the shocks to allow more down travel and that over extended the CV joint until it broke. I since corrected that and have not had a failure since. I explained in the video that very thing, please review again for that answer. Thanks for watching.
great video. So I'm not sure that I understand about using the brakes to lock them. If i'm driving my 95 Bronco in the snow, and if I had this truetrac in the rear, would I have to apply brakes to get them to lock? thank you
The only time you can get them to “lock” is when you are going very slow and lift a wheel off the ground. If both tires are on the ground it acts like a good limited slip.
I'll look at them, thank you. I think I saw you're in the Denver area, I'm in NM and I could drive out for a weekend if the shipping gets too ridiculous. Thanks.
Those aren't Eaton Detroit lockers, they're Eaton Detroit LSD's. Consider trying a true locker for the front and keeping the LSD for the rear. If you can't find an Eaton Detroit Locker then I'd recommend the Yukon Grizzly.
This video isn’t about a real locker, rather how a TrueTrac works. I have a Grizzly locker in my Bronco but if you want a better LSD then factory or something better than an open diff in the front these do the trick.
Great video! So regarding the torque transfer, are you brake tapping or simultaneously pressing both the gas and brake at the same time to essentially power through?
You can do both, if you tap the brakes it will transfer for the amount of time you tap. This may get you over something. But if you want it to stay locked (no really locked but max torque transferred) you need to keep the brake on the whole time.
Great Vid! I'm planning out some upgrades for my 95 Flareside and I was curious if the True Trac works the same as the Torsen I'm familiar with from the 80's and 90's Audi's. Your video showed they work exactly the same... thank you!
did this truck have a rear LSD from the factory? Mine does but I've yet to wheel it and put it through its paces, its mostly a tow rig for me but I think I'd really like a TrueTrac for the front because I'd like to expand the capabilities
Great vid, it helped me make up my mind. So there isn’t a lot of option for me (cheap or expensive) I’m trying to take my f150 off limited slip and your vid helped.
So this would be perfect for my 03 Land Rover Discovery with traction control. The second the traction control brakes a wheel it locks. I think its a perfect match for the Disco because the traction control on the Discovery II does not reduce engine power at all. Next best thing to a locker, since you have no wires or air lines to worry about.
If you throttle hard in snow it acts like a full locked diff. If you use less throttle it will send torque to the tire with the most traction so it just gets traction without drama.
I have a 2004 f150 with 35's and 3.73's and a 3" leveling kit. I broke something in my driver's side front, either the cv itself or the iwe actuator or both, won't know till I have it apart. But I have a RC 6" lift and 4.56 gears and a rear TT going in, to replace the worn posi. Been considering the 912a563 TT specifically for the 8.8 ifs 28spline vs the 912a562 for ranger rear 8.8 28 spline. But I'm also wondering if a traditional clutch type posi would be the better option up front to lessen the bias and hopefully save the CV's but still provide some transfer over an open diff. Have you figured out a better "softer" way to drive the front wheels to avoid breaking? I tried figuring out if I could get a 31 spline front diff and CV setup from a newer truck, but short of buying everything to try it out and hope it's not a waste of money, the guys at RC told me the mounting holes are different on the newer trucks and it won't fit, so that's seems to be out. Like you, I'm not building a serious rock crawler, but I do have tentative plans for 37's, but again, I am concerned about the weak links in the front CV's. I'm kind of wishing I had bought a Detroit auto locker or elocker for the rear so that I would have to rely on the front just a little bit less, but I'm way outside the return window on the rear TT. What if any advice do you have?
Nice vid, I think it's all about the rig's intended use; If you want a go anywhere rock crawling beast of an overlander, definitely save up for selectable lockers (front minimum) Here's my TT situation (TLDR?)- I just regeared the back of my Jeep Cherokee (4.88s, 35s, and an auto/ "lunchbox" locker in a C8.25) Now I'm gambling on a front True Trac, I really hope it works out🤞... I thought long and hard, then decided to go with the TT because a $1k+ selectable locker didn't fit my budget, also it didn't really make sense to me in a D30 near it's limit (no truss and 35s). My Jeep is primarily going to be used on trails that quickly go to and from hard pack dirt, and mud/ "quick sand". They're also very tight and twisty, and are fairly flat in elevation. I didn't like having a front lunchbox locker in those conditions; it was hard to steer on the hard packed dirt in 4x4 but not enough traction in the mud/ sand in 4-hi, forcing me to go back and forth between 2-hi, 4-hi, and 4-low constantly causing me to stop and start (not ideal for staying afloat). I know it's backwards from what most people do/ recommend, but I had absolutely no problems with my old REAR lunchbox (Spartan), both on or off road. That left me with 3 choices; open, LSD, or selectable. I choose the TT because I wanted a LSD but don't want to deal with worn out clutches or diff additives. I don't know of anyone else who went this route (Front TT, rear auto), so I'd post a similar video sharing how it worked out (if anyone happens to be curious), after I hit the dirt ofc. Wish me luck, Im gonna need it lol.
Very well edited video sir..
No stupid music
No stupid "uptalk"
Great information.
Thanks!
AGREE 100%
This is how a review should be done. Straight to the point, no bs, no hype, no stupid background music.
WELL DONE! 👏
Too many greedy dipshits out there any longer looking to be content creators. This is how a video should be.
excellent video; no ridiculous video, no over-commentating, just knowledge sharing. THX!
You’re welcome!
I learned left foot braking to engage the LSD on my Tacoma and increase the torque to the wheels. Once I added the Truetrac to the rear The combination has allowed me to tackle every obstacle I have attempted. I wish they made it for my front diff.
I was surprised they made one for my truck, it's a 8.8" with 28 splines and that is in Rangers but even so I was surprised. Thanks for watching.
Hello! Would you recomend the eaton truetrack over a posi trac? I have to repair mine posi trac, and I don't Know which Is best option.
Regards
Damián
@@damingallo1 i would run a truetrack over a standard LSD for alot of reasons. The biggest reason is they are essentially zero Maintenance no clutches and no special fluid additives.
@@JesseT86 thank you for the answer! Regards
@@starksexpeditions121 The 8.8 is a very popular swap for Wranglers with the Dana 35. AFAIK the 8.8 has very good aftermarket support because of that.
I've had a Truetrac in the rear of my 2wd Ranger for a year now. The TT gives max bias at near zero wheel RPM - something a clutch-type LSD cannot. All around excellent choice for a little truck that is driven on slimy roads and in the snow - huge improvement over the OEM open diff. Very happy with the Truetrac.
This is one of the best way to show how the truetrac work, i searching a lot and this is the best examples... thanks ....
You’re welcome! I did the same and searched but found nothing good, glad it helped.
Awsome video man!! Cant find any videos on people review after installing DTT instead of lockers, and people making review about DTT dont seem to know about brake bias! Wish you make more videos like this in the trails!
Thanks!! Before I bought them I only found one video of how to use them with the brakes. That is why I made this vid. So glad it helped you and I will be making more videos.
I installed truetrak on my 96 f150 and Yukon 3:31 Ring n pinion. Utah mountains in snow. Never slipped a tire. I think they are fantastic. Did all the work myself. Towed camper and put 20,000 miles on this system in 4 months. Great product
I bought a set of these for a Landrover after watching this video. I'm really happy with the offroad performance. They have effortless traction. Just point the truck where you want it to go. Thankyou for your informative video and sharing your tricks to getting the best out of them
Glad it helped!
Nice demonstration. I’ve had 4 of them on 4 jeeps and like them very much for the types of traction-loss situations you’re showing. They are hard to beat in snow and slimy conditions. They last forever and are better than all other clutch limited slips out there. Better mannered than a clicky lunch box licker too.
Thanks!
I hate those pesky lunchbox lickers...
wish I had gone this route went with lunch box and regretting it.
One of the best vids for showing a TrueTrac in action. Thanks for posting. I just put a TrueTrac in the front of my '80 GMC and about to put a Detroit Locker in the rear. I'm sure it'll be a great combination.
After using my set up, TrueTrac fornt and rear I think a Detroit locker in the rear would be better. I think you will love it.
Have always run these in my vehicles and love them! The brake induced torque vectoring is tough to do in a standard but not impossible.
Could you expand on that?
I'm considering one for my rear axle with a 6 speed manual. I figured it wouldn't be too hard to apply some braking while in low range or even engage the hand/parking brake.
@@timsilva1944 I is very difficult to do but it is doable by heal-toeing the brake and throttle with your right foot. I don't rock crawl too often where I need to do it. If you're going to have one rear wheel in the air on a regular basis I would go with the different traction device but if that only ever happens once in a blue moon, then these things are great. They drive so nice on the road and perform fantastically in the snow, mud, and sand.
@@theadventuregeneralist7024 Thanks for your input!
It seems the best fit for me as I have a winch and don't plan on doing rock crawling as much as the snow, mud or sand as you mentioned. Plus it just works without having to throw a switch or be concerned about another failure point.
I have dirt bikes for the gnarly stuff and would rather not be breaking drivetrain parts in the rocks.👍
I have OX LOCKERS in my F-350. They work in the deep deep snow. Awesome demonstration!
Thanks, if you want your diffs to be locked all the time that’s the way go.
I have an excursion with factory limited slip. I got stuck and only one wheel was spinning. Was i supposed to hit the brake and the gas at the same time? I’m here because I’m looking for different options now 😅
You can try that but the factory limited slip has clutches that allow the slip and with age and use the clutches don’t work as well as new, that wasn’t very good then.
I am very impressed by how well they performed with a bit of brake pressure. I run Detroit auto lockers in my Jeep and they are a dream on the trail, but they take some finesse to keep them behaved on the street. If my Jeep were any less trail focused I might have been tempted by the TrueTrac.
Thanks for the demo! Very helpful tips on how to engage TRUE-TRAC. I just put a set of these front and rear in my 93 Cherokee along with 4:56 regear. Haven't had a chance to get it on the trail yet, but feel a little more confident after seeing your video. Greetings from the Mojave Desert!
You are welcome!
How do you like them on trails? I will most likely get a front and rear Truetrac for my XJ as well with 4.56 gears and 33s.
I run them in the front and rear of my 96 XJ and can go anywhere a Rubicon can. Great product!
You can't go anywhere a Rubicon can.
Nice!
I run true trac on my jeep tj, only for the ease of obstacles. I also planned that my rig can flex and always keep a tire on the ground
I have friend that has the same, he never lifts a wheel!
it's not really a "locker", its more of a no maintenance clutch-less limited slip. I have one in my xj just in the rear and I love it
Yep, thanks for watching.
Great vid of real life application of the torque transfer. Thanks for posting.
Thanks!
Great video, I have a Miata with a Torsten diff. (similar category to the Truetrac) The Torsten helps in the deep snow, steep dirt hills and easy trails. The hand brake is your friend. Tires used are Goodyear Ultragrip winters due to their a/t style tread, they work well in most situations.
I used a Torsen T2r in a Camaro I autocrossed. I was impressed that it just works. It always finds traction.
I found your video because I'm reading the Eaton catalog and the description seemed to hint at what you show here. Thanks!
Glad it helped!
After numerous lockers and their failures which also destroys the bearings/gears. I went with these eaton true tracks front and back in my XJ.
Very impressed with these. I almost forget I have them until im off-road.
Nice
How are they on the road with snow and ice ? Hope they keep you running straight down the road
What lockers failed and why?
True Trac is a torque-bias diff. A limit slip has a clutch-pack. So the true-trac isn't a limited-slip. And a Locker isn't a differential. Very good example of the True Trac in a trail situation. I don't understand how anyone can think that a Locker is satisfactory on a trail. Rock crawl...OK. Good video, thank you.
at last a valid honest opinion on this kind of diff i was swaying between air locker and the Ashcroft ATB for my wife's defender and as the ATB is the same type as the Eaton one this just pushed me to the fit and forget as it is not going to be a full on rock crawling vehicle but more of an expedition where lockers will need occasional use. great video thanks.
Glad it helped, thanks!
I've been thinking about setting my 1980 chevy k20 up with thees. I have never once heard of this and would have been pissed to have found out after I put them in. This is a big deal when building a drive train. Oh I still want them and will be getting them, I'm just happy to have found your review before I put then in. Thanks man.
You're welcome!
Perfect presentation sir , greetings from Greece ! ! !
Thanks!
Thank You For Posting This !
I now realize a torsen front differential is the right choice for me.
No problem!
Does the front end push more than an open diff when you accelerate while turning? I would expect the helical to lock together when under acceleration and both tires have traction, which should act like turning with a front locker engaged. For example, accelerating through a corner on rainy asphalt, would it tend to want to push wide?
The simple answer is yes. But the only time I found it doing that is on the road with ice. Cant say about mud, Colorado is pretty dry. The interesting thing is if there is traction available like in snow the diff seems to find traction. If one tire starts to spin the torque will go to the other side and back and forth and works really well to keep you moving forward. Remember even if you hold the brake at very low speed to get it to “lock” it’s not 100% locked. If the front starts to push you let off the gas and it bites and goes straight again. I have an Eaton e-locker in my Bronco so I know how having the front locked will cause issues.
Hey thanks for the video i just bought the Trutrac diff and didnt quite know how to use it in my tahoe it originally had the g80 but now i know the key is brake pressure 💯
Your welcome! I so glad it helped, I'll be making more in the future.
Did you like the G80 too?
@@sbfteague i kinda liked the fact that you didnt have to use brake pressure for it to lock but the one i have now works good at high speeds
I didn't even know I had truetraks on my wrangler until I pulled off the diff cover. I always attributed my traction to tires and flex. but I'm guessig the truetraks probably helped. I absolutely recommend them front and rear.
Excellent demo! I run one in the rear and have been very happy too.
Thanks!
I have a 2003 F-150 SuperCrew four-wheel drive I've got the exact same 456 gears eating true track front and back. But sadly between the winch bumper I have on the front and the ladder rack and the toolbox I have a heavy truck and I'll tell you that eating true track is amazing
Any issues having one in the front too?
Own 2 Jeeps, a '96 ZJ, and a '23 JLU. The older Jeep has a Dana 44 rear rear axle with a Trutrac. The new one I bought secifically with open diffs to upgrade to the Weld74 portals. It is a Sport S Altitude, and the money I did not spend on the higher level trims. Wild allow me to have a more capable vehicle for less money. I don't rock crawl per se, but mostly do overlanding. When I encounter deep rain ruts and rock falls on dirt roads. I want more ground clearance.
We also have a Ram 2500 Cummins powered 4wd. The rear Trutrac works nice, but I will add a Trutrac in the front when I regear for larger tires.
Excellent demonstration of the diff. thank you for your time.
Thanks!
Glad I watched this don't think I want to go this route now.
Glad it helped, what will you do instead?
Great Demo! Curious what you paid 4 years ago (for Eaton Tru-trac). They seem to go for around $800 now
I put one in the back of my 08 Grand Marquis with 4.10’s it’s an amazing diff :)
That pivot around the rock would be impossible with any other style locker. Very cool
My TrueTrac is great. It is not a locker, but it gets the job done very well without a clutch pack found in a traditional posi. I doubt it was designed with rock crawling as an application. It does great keeping me from getting stuck in typical mud and snow situations.
Thanks for watching!
Excellent review, thank you.
Great looking rig. I’m doing the same thing with my 2000 Ford Expedition. It’s served me well over the years and I will never part with it for it’s like having an reliable friend. May I ask where you got that rear bumper???
Thanks! I made the bumper myself, if you want one I can make one for you. Shipping would be tough but I live in Colorado and could meet half way.
Great vid. It’s not about opinions, there are facts:
1. For full-on extreme off roading, go air locker/elocker/detroit locker.
1(a) The Compromise is added complexity…wiring, compressor etc etc.
2. Try LSD type diffs, but don’t be disappointed if YOU fail to understand their limitations. Choose the right diff!!
3. Just look at the BS that Landrover et al go through to achieve good road handlng and ‘great’ off road capability: traction control braking wheels, jerky intermittent progress, computers galore, to compensate for stiff suspension and sway bars. If you want the best of both worlds, you need positive lockers and a brain to use them
Thanks! Exactly! I wheel with a bunch of new Broncos and they have lockers and the electronics are always turning them off because of too much “protection” by the computer. If something doesn’t look right it says “sorry, I’m saving myself and all is off” “call a tow truck”.
I understand why the front didn't engage initially with one wheel in the air. I'm curious as to why the rear didn't engage at roughly 3:00 in the video. Both wheels were on the ground. Shouldn't the truetrac engage once wheel slip is detected on the one side?
I wonder how helpful that would be in my truck. 98 F150, but with a 5speed manual. I'm thinking it would be tough to overcome an obstacle using the brake, gas, AND trying not to kill the engine. Seems great if you have an automatic though. Much easier to utilize. Thoughts?
Thoughts
I absolutely LOVE my "lunchbox" lockers on my relatively light Suzuki Samurai. I unlock the front hubs so the lunchbox is no issue in the front when on the pavement. On the rear, they will sometimes pop loose somewhat violently, but generally the sammy is so light, the rears just scrub a bit on turns, but being light, it's not even noticed, and after years, I don't see any tire wear issues. I'm sure lunchboxes would not be great on a heavier vehicle, but for the sammy they are unmatched; just a perfect front/rear setup.
The lunchbox style lockers have the same basic design as true lockers just smaller. I find it interesting when people talk of true lockers that they wear tires more on the street. Driving off road in rocks and gravel wear tires much faster so I don’t even worry about that. In my Bronco that I use for mostly trails has a Yukon Grizzly locker in the rear and a Eaton e-locker in the front. I like the e-locker in the front mostly because the Dana 44 isn’t strong enough so I only engage the locker if I need it. But that set up is much more expensive then lunchbox setup.
I have a 2000 expedition myself. I would like to put a powertrax no slip in mine front and rear. I had them in my old jeep ZJ and was very impressed.
Any limited slip is better than open, make that Expedition bad ass!
Well I learned something new. I put a truetrack in the back of my 05 Dodge Ram 2500 about 6 years ago. I’ve had posi in a few trucks, but this is my first gear drive diff. Never knew how it worked. Pull my Toyhauler no problem through the sand/desert/mud/snow. I figured it worked just like a posi. Now I know. Harder the brake, the more traction you get. Seems counter productive. Thank you. Very informative. 👍
Glad it helped.
I have a true track in my deisel 2x4 f250. Prior to having it, I called my truck "one wheel drive"... Flat ground, wet grass, heavy motor= stuck every time... I was very hesitant to purchasing... With the True track... Never misses a beat, even in mud... With the true track on pavement, it will slightly lock if you "apply power" while cornering but No power not problem... (Think exit ramp off freeway, just drift)
Sounds like fun!
Thinking about getting one for my 2wd truck. So no issues getting stuck get? Sand in the desert has been my only enemy
Thanks for the vid! I have a Ford 2014 E350 Sportsmobile QuadVan conversion with Eaton in the front and factory LS differentials in the rear. We do like to go off roading/over landing, but because the van took me two years to find and cost a pretty penny, I know I will not be tempted to do any serious rock crawling without a locker for two reasons: 1. I only want to attempt things the van will successfully do, and 2. I really do not want to damage my vehicle, it’s too mint. So this video was informative in that it presented the limitations. Thanks!
Glad it helped!
Explained then shown and explained. Well done...thanks
Thanks!
Excellent demonstration !
Thanks!
Hello! Great video and nice truck! I’m contemplating putting a truetrac both front and rear in a 2010 f150 super crew, but am wondering if that will be an issue with a lot of daily street driving too? It’s not a rock crawler but I do not like essentially having 2wd while in 4wd.
With a manual transmission, I wonder if the procedure using the brakes and power, would be more difficult? Mainly due to the risk of stalling. With the automatic you had the advantage of stopping the vehicle and infinite slow speed crawl while modulating the power/brakes.
As said many times in the comments, yes it will be impossible to do what I demonstrate in my video.
Great review I was curious about the off road performance, alot of people recommended this unit to me but no one could tell me how they really do on trails
Thanks for watching, I cover how it works off road in the video.
excellent video, I would like to know more about this experience, because I have an automatic Ford Explorer M96 and I need a more appropriate 4x4 on my farm in Colombia. Thank you
Thanks for watching.
Just a thought about a helical vs open diff. The helical becomes an open diff when one wheel is unloaded. So they are effectively the same in this state. The solution to both situations is the same, it's holding the unimpeded wheel to transfer torque to the other one, as you demonstrate. So, could you just use the same braking technique with an open diff, and get the same effect?
I have done that with an open diff and sometimes it can get you through an obstacle but the helical set up works differently and the technique is more effective. Thanks for watching!
Great video. I needed to see that to realize I do NOT want one of those.
That's why I made it, you understand how it works and that it doesn't work for you. Thanks for watching.
Great video, you helped decide, those are the diffs i need.
i was doing a rear axle seal for a truck i just bought, and found this diff lock in it, which was a surprise for what i paid for the truck
Bonus! 👍
I am looking at this style for my Vans (2 of them) which both are 2WD.... One is going to be set up for Towing/Camping 90% ON-ROAD....Campgrounds (as you know) are notorious for poor traction situations...Mud/Grass/Wet Boat Ramps... The other is more of a "Street Van" 100% ON-ROAD which its traction is limited by the fact it has considerable Horsepower/Torque, and Though I won't be doing any type of "Burnout Contests" or goofy crap like that...I JUST want it to hook up and GO on bare tar...As it is now with the 350hp engine (with 425lb-ft torque - Almost TWICE what it had, stock) it allows the worthless "One Wheel Peel" 3.25:1 - 9" Ford to make single stripes thru First and Second gear (Ford C6)....Up to like 60mph, if I try...LOL....and this style DIFF has been recommended to me for BOTH as most of my situations may be limited traction, but rarely in a ZERO traction situation.... I know you can't make recommendations on the very little information I supplied. But I know you have a LOT of experience with this style...Does this sound like a "Fairly Good Fit" - Or should I explore other options.... *Thanks in Advance*
Sounds like a great fit, it will be better than any clutch style limited slip. A Detroit auto locker style will lock and spin your inside tire at all stop sign turns, a e-locker or air locker has to be switched on to work so if you are spinning you have to stop to engage that style, TruTracs just work when you need them and will never wear out like a clutch limited slip. Good luck with your build.
@@starksexpeditions121 Thank You for your reply!
Thanks for the info. Unfortunately I don't think Eaton makes one for the Ford Super 8.8 rear diff that I need. I think I'm going to have to go with the Yukon Traclock LSD. I would rather have the Eaton, I just wish they made one for mine.
THEY DO, NOW! as of 9/23/2024. We have one coming on the brown truck later this week! Go0gle the name of the unit and you may find other sellers. My purveyor of diffness is Stage3Motorsports. Will have it installed in my '16 5.0 F150 some time in October. Cheers!
I put true tracs front and rear with 4.10s in my jeep yj and have no regrets they do have there limits with a standard transmission if you get stopped on a steep hill with one wheel off the ground it gets interesting but still glad with my choice ,if I was rock crawling all the time the better choice would be lockers
Thanks for watching!
Yo thank you so much for this..i installed one in the rear of my dakota 2 months ago and thought it was blipping the brake to fully lock them.you literally ride the brake going up watever obstacle its slipping on..great clarifcation. Its completly unnoticable on roads so far. One thing for sure its very beefy full of metal compared to the cast steel open spider set up. Will be doing one on the front
Your welcome, so glad it helped. Some times I have to sit at the bottom of an obstacle and hold the brake and not release it at all, just push on the gas pedal until the truck moves and they stay locked. Don't be afraid to really apply brake pressure.
What if my toyota is a standard trans..how will I ride the brakes?
@@markwickk You can't.
@@starksexpeditions121 I guess this type of locker..is no use then.for my standard trans.
@@markwickk Not exactly, as I say in the video. It is a very good limited slip diff. If both wheels are on the ground it works better than a clutch limited slip.
Great Video. Question, once the DTT engages, do you need to continue to apply brake bias?
For my stock Jeep Sport, I was thinking a DTT in the rear and a E-locker in the front and a 2.5 lift for bigger tires. Also considering re-gearing for larger tires at the same time. No need to open the diff's twice.
Yes, as soon as you release the brake it opens up. Good luck, a locker in the front will pull you through with little issue.
You really only have to use brake bias when you lift a tire. Wranglers, especially if you disconnect the front sway bar, do an excellent job of keeping tires on the ground. I have a DTT in the rear of my 2014 Jeep Wrangler Sport JK. I have a 2.5 lift and 33” tires. I ride with a Jeep club that does some pretty aggressive wheeling and have never had to use brake bias to engage by DTT because Of how well it keeps tires on the ground. But I can tell a dramatic increase in traction. Obstacles that used to be difficult or impossible for me are now fairly easy.
If you apply the brakes and gas at the same time in the snow seems weard. I bought an Eaton E locker but have got it wired up yet. I don't really even need 4x4 most of the time unless I'm in deep snow with these boggers.
I’m sorry that you got that from the video, the only time you apply the brakes is when a wheel comes off the ground. In all other scenarios it works without any input. I also have a Bronco with a e-locker and that is the only way to get 100% lock between both sides. The TrueTrac works best in snow and slippery road surfaces. If you engage a locker it will be much more difficult to keep the vehicle going straight and if you lock the front the vehicle will not turn and that’s a bad thing. So locker in the front for crawling rocks and TrueTrac for everything else.
Liked cause I liked. Great video sir.
Thanks!
Great video, perfect display of works.and being a regular blue collar dude on a budget I always wondered about other alternatives, well that answered my questions and might be going that route myself!!!
Thanks for watching
Hello i just ordered the same locker and same gear set up for my xj just wondering what size of tires are u running ?
Finally a video where someone gets tires in the air and shoes how a Trutrac engages! I was worried that you couldn’t get power to the wheel once it goes in the air, but apparently you can, so I’m gonna get one in my Sequoia!
Remember you have to keep the brake on as soon as you let go the diff will open. Good luck!
I'd always heard that this is how they work, but never seen it demonstrated. Super cool the way you rotated around that rock too! Like an on/off switch you can manipulate at will for open vs locked diff.
It's really nice finding your video I just had my complete rear end rebuilt on my F-350 and had them put in a truetrack locker have a Dana 60 waiting and a brand new truetrack locker to put under the front end so it's a bit beefier. Tired of the one wheel spin. That way when I pull the lever I have all four
Thanks!
I liked the stock g80 and was trying to get a Detroit locker in the rear of my truck but they were at least 6 months out on back order. So i went with the truetrac.. i haven't been in a situation where i got stuck, but i think half way engaging the ebrake (which is connected to both rear tires since i have the disc conversion kit) should accomplish the same thing as feathering the regular brake right?
This was very helpful. Thanks!!
Glad it was helpful!
Well that was interesting. Were I building a crawler I'd look for other options. One thing you didn't speak to is the performance on compromised paved surfaces: ice, snow, water, that sort of thing. Do you have to use the brake in those ?
I did in my other video, I have a Bronco I use for rock crawling and I use a Grizzly locker in the rear and a e-locker in the front. The only time you need to use the brake is when a wheel is off the ground, all other times it works like a limited slip.
Thank you for the demonstration. Do you have the part number for the ford 8.8 28 spline?
That was excellent. It let me know that it's not right for my manual transmission jeep. Trying apply breaks and clutch and throttle on an obstacle doesn't sound fun. Looks great for automatic
I get that a lot, they work really good as a limited slip but if you want a true locker they don’t do that. Thanks for watching!
Great video! Haven’t seen any with it installed front and rear
Thanks!
You might have considered a Detroit Locker in the rear for this type of activity.
Those things are beasts and are with you 100% of the time.
Your wheelbase would have given you advantage over the slight driving differences the Detroit creates when turning.
I loved mine.
Great video for sure.
Thanks, wanted too have better street manners then a true locker gives. I use a Yukon locker in my Bronco and I think it performs better then a Detroit I had years ago. It never bangs or pops when it engages and will disengage smooth too.
would you recommend this for a 2wd who wants a little more traction offroad (getting to remote camping spots) but doesn't want to spend nearly 2grand on a locker?
Yes, it would be better than an open differential.
Thank you , will be applied in my 91 Bronco!!
Sounds great, let me know how it goes!
do you hold down the brake and step on the gas in the car and it goes? you step on the brake together with the gas of the car and you suddenly release the brake and it starts you off,
Nice setup, I've been looking to add twin helical's to my '97 Expy as well, but as it's 95% street driven (some light gravel/dirt roads occasionally and boat ramps) and already has a clutch style rear it's an expensive bullet to bite. I feel they are the best LSD as long as you aren't trying to drift, I've added on to my '90 240sx that I've done some auto-x with but mainly street drive and do 1/4 mi with and my '10 Civic Si dd has one in the front from the factory.
For the more serious off-roading you are doing a clutch style in the rear have have been smarter, more consistent and would never get to the 'full open feel' that helical's can when one tire has ZERO traction. Might have saved you $100 or so in parts too. Obviously a full locker would be best for off-roading but you can't run that on the street at all in the front safely, could've done an E-locker too but I think the helical was the right move. Way better than an open and can give you a ton of traction on pavement if you needed in snow or heavy rain.
I have been off roading for 40 years from Early Broncos with a Detroit to Rangers with Traction Locs to ARB lockers. I also autocrossed a SVO Mustang with a factory Traction Loc that I repacked every race to a SS Camaro with a Torsion T2R. So I'm very familiar with diffs. I wanted to try something different mainly in the front. I love the ability to apply the brakes to get the diff to put power to the wheel with grip. I also like to way they act like a locker when both wheels are on the ground. Thanks for watching.
*EDIT:* ALSO the original video poster can answer this too, since he has so much experience with differentials.
You say torsen diffs like the truetrac aren't good for drifting... In that case, if I wanted a "do it all" diff that I didn't have to constantly rebuild, for a mostly street driven "sport" vehicle with the occasional rip on a gravel road as well as some casual "drifting", donuts/powerslide circles, casual test n tune drag racing every other weekend, and maybe a track day or autocross... Basically, the only thing I won't do in the vehicle is crawl/trail because it's not 4wd and I don't like going slow. Though I also won't be competing with it, just having fun, and 90% of the time, it'll be on the street and daily driven, just with the goon shit in between.
@@Drunken_Hamster There is a little opinion with that, while I think the helical is best for traction/safety and can do everything a clutch style will do but drift/hold power slides smoothly, it's seldom worth the extra cost over a clutch style when you are adding an LSD to a car/truck. Hence why it was such a popular factory LSD, cost for the performance is just better. A clutch style will still offer better than 90% of the drag racing and even auto-x performance that a helical will, and will be very consistent when trying to hold the rear sideways. Where it is weaker is in a FWD setting where you can't have a clutch style as the tires will bind up and slid in turns or in a slick situation like snow/ice where a helical will 'find' traction better and put the power there between the two tires, a clutch will hold both more evenly between them and it may take a moment longer to pull yourself out. Not saying a clutch style is bad, just mildly less efficient. It's rare that you would need to rebuild a clutch style in your ownership of the car. They can wear out, but they outlive the warranty in factory cars and when not abused or pushing more power than the car came with seldom do wear out. Where it's a bigger issue would be say a muscle car that the owner put two or three times the power through as well as added sticker tires and beat on it, that all adds stress to the clutch packs and they will need a rebuild/upgrade. in a mostly street driven car with stock(ish) power you should easily get 10yrs or more out of one. Viscus LSD's do wear much harder and afaik aren't rebuild able, Nissan uses them in a lot of their OEM situations.
@@MastaPaco4Life Yeah, in my application there's definitely going to be 3x the stock power as well as some mild to moderate abuse. At least eventually. And when it comes to clutch style vs helical cost for my application, if I get an AFTERMARKET clutch style (which is presumably better and stronger, and can be 1.5 and 2 way instead of just 1 way) the cost is about the same.
So for me, it's between a factory trac-loc (ford 8.8 axle) which can come in my axle swap cost of $300 for the junkyard pull, and $600 for rebuild and upgrade, OR it'll be the junkyard pulled axle with rebuild plus a roughly $1000 detroit tru-trac like the OP has, since all the other aftermarket limited slip carriers for it are also $700+
For reference, the application is my 09 Ranger which I plan to turbocharge. Everything on it aside from the axle (stock is a 7.5" 28 spline, but a 95-01 expy 8.8" 31 spline axle bolts right up) and fuel pump is good for 300 wheel. If I nab a 2.5 duratec out of another car, that block will also bolt right in (same BH pattern on all Duratec and 4-cyl ecoboost variants) and I only have to change some sensors and such and the stock ECU will run it. That gets me to 500whp capability if I get a different trans, so the axle and diff will, in the future, be seeing roughly up to 500whp and like 400lb-ft and I'll be taking it to the strip every other weekend or so for a night of fun, but generally driving spiritedly and doing goon stuff in between. Just no competition work.
Looks like it's good on snow and mud but no replacement for a locker in the rocks if you need it.
You are correct.
@@starksexpeditions121 @jake32401 are you talking specifically about front or rear, or both..? I'm thinking a true trac in the back on my F250 and an air or e-locker in the front, but don't know what the most all-purpose solution is. Main traction problem where I live will be snow and ice, with muddy roads and mudholes a distant second. But I don't want to spend the money on something and learn later I should have gone a different route.
@@chriswithrow3107A TrueTrac in the front in snow and ice will make the front not track as good as an open diff. So sounds like in your conditions a locker in the front would be good so if you need a locker you can engage that on demand. I had that setup in a Ranger years ago. In super deep snow I would lock in the front and good through but unlocked for icy and light snow roads. Lockers front and rear is the ultimate set up, you have all options available. It is also the most expensive and you need an air compressor. Air lockers are problematic in very cold temps. Moisture freezes in the lines and I had a internal o-ring fail. Never had a e-locker (have a factory one in my F150 but don't off road it) so can't speak for them.
@@starksexpeditions121 is a True Trac in the rear pretty tolerable in the snow?
@@chriswithrow3107 It is just a good limited slip, it will power both wheels so you can go sideways but the same as every factory LSD. But they don't wear out clutches like that style diff.
That is super helpful. Do they react like an open door on u turns on pavement?
Yes, very smooth.
In this video it seems that a front axle breaks?
How do they work with a vehicle with an automatic gearbox and how is it to drive so that they engage?
The CV broke because I modified the shocks to allow more down travel and that over extended the CV joint until it broke. I since corrected that and have not had a failure since. I explained in the video that very thing, please review again for that answer. Thanks for watching.
Awesome video, thanks for sharing. I've been mulling over E-locker vs torsen for a while.
Glad it helped.
I put one in the rear end of my 08 powerstroke. It's been good, BUT does open diff a lot more than I expected.
Thanks for watching
great video. So I'm not sure that I understand about using the brakes to lock them. If i'm driving my 95 Bronco in the snow, and if I had this truetrac in the rear, would I have to apply brakes to get them to lock? thank you
The only time you can get them to “lock” is when you are going very slow and lift a wheel off the ground. If both tires are on the ground it acts like a good limited slip.
Glad to see more video on this build
Thanks!
Excellent, clear, no bs.
Thanks!
I'll look at them, thank you.
I think I saw you're in the Denver area, I'm in NM and I could drive out for a weekend if the shipping gets too ridiculous.
Thanks.
I’d be happy to go on a 4x4 trip if you want to spend a day… I will have to get some measurements to make them.
@@starksexpeditions121 I had to come back and try and find this answer. Thanks. I'll let you know, appreciate it.
Those aren't Eaton Detroit lockers, they're Eaton Detroit LSD's. Consider trying a true locker for the front and keeping the LSD for the rear. If you can't find an Eaton Detroit Locker then I'd recommend the Yukon Grizzly.
This video isn’t about a real locker, rather how a TrueTrac works. I have a Grizzly locker in my Bronco but if you want a better LSD then factory or something better than an open diff in the front these do the trick.
Great video! So regarding the torque transfer, are you brake tapping or simultaneously pressing both the gas and brake at the same time to essentially power through?
You can do both, if you tap the brakes it will transfer for the amount of time you tap. This may get you over something. But if you want it to stay locked (no really locked but max torque transferred) you need to keep the brake on the whole time.
Great Vid! I'm planning out some upgrades for my 95 Flareside and I was curious if the True Trac works the same as the Torsen I'm familiar with from the 80's and 90's Audi's. Your video showed they work exactly the same... thank you!
Glad you liked it!
did this truck have a rear LSD from the factory? Mine does but I've yet to wheel it and put it through its paces, its mostly a tow rig for me but I think I'd really like a TrueTrac for the front because I'd like to expand the capabilities
No, it was an open diff.
Great vid, it helped me make up my mind. So there isn’t a lot of option for me (cheap or expensive) I’m trying to take my f150 off limited slip and your vid helped.
Thanks!
So this would be perfect for my 03 Land Rover Discovery with traction control. The second the traction control brakes a wheel it locks. I think its a perfect match for the Disco because the traction control on the Discovery II does not reduce engine power at all. Next best thing to a locker, since you have no wires or air lines to worry about.
I think they bridge the area between a LSD and a locking type diff. Thanks for watching.
Thought about running one of those in the front of my 86 Chevy M1008. Good video..
Thanks!
What about in the mud/snow. How do they act when your in the throttle hard, Not in a rocky environment but just slick snow or mud
If you throttle hard in snow it acts like a full locked diff. If you use less throttle it will send torque to the tire with the most traction so it just gets traction without drama.
I have a 2004 f150 with 35's and 3.73's and a 3" leveling kit. I broke something in my driver's side front, either the cv itself or the iwe actuator or both, won't know till I have it apart. But I have a RC 6" lift and 4.56 gears and a rear TT going in, to replace the worn posi. Been considering the 912a563 TT specifically for the 8.8 ifs 28spline vs the 912a562 for ranger rear 8.8 28 spline. But I'm also wondering if a traditional clutch type posi would be the better option up front to lessen the bias and hopefully save the CV's but still provide some transfer over an open diff.
Have you figured out a better "softer" way to drive the front wheels to avoid breaking? I tried figuring out if I could get a 31 spline front diff and CV setup from a newer truck, but short of buying everything to try it out and hope it's not a waste of money, the guys at RC told me the mounting holes are different on the newer trucks and it won't fit, so that's seems to be out.
Like you, I'm not building a serious rock crawler, but I do have tentative plans for 37's, but again, I am concerned about the weak links in the front CV's.
I'm kind of wishing I had bought a Detroit auto locker or elocker for the rear so that I would have to rely on the front just a little bit less, but I'm way outside the return window on the rear TT. What if any advice do you have?
Nice vid, I think it's all about the rig's intended use; If you want a go anywhere rock crawling beast of an overlander, definitely save up for selectable lockers (front minimum) Here's my TT situation (TLDR?)- I just regeared the back of my Jeep Cherokee (4.88s, 35s, and an auto/ "lunchbox" locker in a C8.25) Now I'm gambling on a front True Trac, I really hope it works out🤞... I thought long and hard, then decided to go with the TT because a $1k+ selectable locker didn't fit my budget, also it didn't really make sense to me in a D30 near it's limit (no truss and 35s). My Jeep is primarily going to be used on trails that quickly go to and from hard pack dirt, and mud/ "quick sand". They're also very tight and twisty, and are fairly flat in elevation. I didn't like having a front lunchbox locker in those conditions; it was hard to steer on the hard packed dirt in 4x4 but not enough traction in the mud/ sand in 4-hi, forcing me to go back and forth between 2-hi, 4-hi, and 4-low constantly causing me to stop and start (not ideal for staying afloat). I know it's backwards from what most people do/ recommend, but I had absolutely no problems with my old REAR lunchbox (Spartan), both on or off road. That left me with 3 choices; open, LSD, or selectable. I choose the TT because I wanted a LSD but don't want to deal with worn out clutches or diff additives. I don't know of anyone else who went this route (Front TT, rear auto), so I'd post a similar video sharing how it worked out (if anyone happens to be curious), after I hit the dirt ofc. Wish me luck, Im gonna need it lol.
Good luck! Thanks for watching!