Although I was just mildly curious, and don't have the gear, I was captivated by the truly professional presentation by Patrick Hall.. Even though I don't have the exact camera or software, I was able to follow along and understand the concept as he showed and explained it in a thoroughly professional manner. He spoke clear English with ease and clear command of the subject. I really enjoyed this video. I learned things. Five stars.
Been working as a professional photographer for 20 years, this video proves that one can NEVER stop learning. Thanks for the video. Exicted to try this next week!
To save yourself a little trouble, you can import the entire set of timelapse images into Premiere as one single clip by going to: File > Import. Choose the first image in the sequence. Make sure the "Image Sequence" box is checked and then click Open. Now you won't have to copy and paste attributes to each frame and then nest them as they're already one clip. You can also go into Preferences > Media beforehand and set the Indeterminate Media Timebase to 23.976fps or whatever you like so it will automatically set the clip to that framerate on import. *Note that for this to work, all of the image files must be named sequentially. Great tutorial guys! Thanks!!
If you shoot high res images that are more than 1080 or 4k, you will have to resize the footage anyways. Also, since your photos will probably be 2:3 or 4:5 aspect ratio, and video is 16:9, you are going to have to tweak the final timelapse to fit into your sequence anyways. The import option is def a way to do it but I've just always copied and pasted the jpegs so that I can easily fix any errors and see each individual frame easier.
Right, you will have to resize, but you can do it to the whole clip at once instead of copying and pasting the attribute to many and then nesting. Also, this way, if you decide to tweak the size again, you haven't lost the edges due to nesting.
Don't bother dragging+dropping a large array of files. Just do a File > Import, and select the first frame of the sequence. Make sure the 'Image Sequence' box is checked at the bottom, and you are good to go --It's a single asset.
I import the jpegs as a sequence in another way, which I consider simpler: Just use Command+I, look for the folder where you have your files, click on the first image, then check the box on the left low corner of hat dialog box, and just "Import as a sequence". Voila! All your jpegs are imported as a sequence. Thanks for this video, I have learned a few things that were new to me!
You can use LR Timelapse for post production. This helps to fix the flickering and uses raw files. All in all in helps you to create better timelapses.
Yes definitely but it does require a lot more steps and requires you shoot in raw. Sometimes when we travel for weeks at a time and shoot dozens of timelapses, we don't have the server space to store 10,000+ raw files for timelapses. If you can remove the flicker at the time of capture, you shouldn't need to shoot raw for most of your timelapses but LR Timelapse is great for when you do need smoothing.
If you shoot raw, bring your sequence into an album in Lightroom, apply your edits, and then export the sequence and render the video in premiere or ae. I like working with the full frame edits first and then downscaling. Haven’t done it in a while and need to revisit the workflow. LR timelapse is also a gnarly Lr plug-in you can use to apply key framing to high res time lapses across a series of images in Lr. These produce very nice applications for light changes over time (think applying an exposure gradient to a sunrise scene)
I've learned so much from fstoppers, I feel I have to give something back: LRTimelapse->Lightroom->After Effects. That is the optimal path. Not the fastest though, that's why you use jpegs, I suppose. And the f22 thing...I'd advice to avoid such extremes because of sensor dust and diffraction. Diffraction can be ignored because the final product is video, but sensor dust sometimes cannot be masked out in post. Another advantage using After Effects or any similar editor is that you can mask the jarring sea waves that annoy us and add extra motion blur to soften them without messing with the sky. That's my experience after 4 years and around 500 timelapses for various short and long film productions.
Very nice video BUT to ease your workflow here is a little tips : Instead of importing the way you've done it, just go to import, search for your pictures and then tick the "import as sequence" in the explorer. I've found out that it's much powerful, the playback is way better and seems that the computer likes it better this way ! :)
I don't know about Nikon, but with Canon you can choose your aperture then press and hold the DOF button and twist the lens from the contacts to lock in the aperture. This is the method I use for all my time lapses & AF system lenses to cut down on the aperture flicker..
Hack. aka :Lens twist hack. Also, don't twist to much. Just enough so the contact are no aligned." I don't want anyone to twist to much and drop there lens"
These tutorials are so helpful! I just uploaded my first ever timelapse video (about the city of Bern in Switzerland) and without the help from these tutorials i could not have done it. Thanks!
That's why you always ramp the speed % down during editing the final video file. 70% is a good place to start. I've gone down to 60% with great results on hyperlapses.
Stopping down to f22 was painful to watch. So many reasons you should avoid doing that unless ABSOLUTELY necessary. If there is any dust/dirt on your sensor it will stick out like a sore thumb, and you'll also reduce image quality due to diffraction. Probably should have mentioned that in the video. Definitely agree you should be using ND filters for this style of photography!
Dylan, F22 looks fine with many lenses, espcially when the delivery is 4k, or, more likely 2k. The F22 diffraction spikes can be interesting also. I have demonstated F22 looking just fine, yes it is a tad softer, but this is video, and add a little unsharp mask, and all is good.
Dylan, F22 looks fine with many lenses, espcially when the delivery is 4k, or, more likely 2k. The F22 diffraction spikes can be interesting also. I have demonstated F22 looking just fine, yes it is a tad softer, but this is video, and add a little unsharp mask, and all is good.
Nor Dic I completely agree that most lenses will be fine for all but the most picky of pixel peepers from a diffraction standpoint. However, you will still have the smallest dust particles on your sensor stand out very clearly, requiring addition retouching in post. I wasn't meaning to say that you should never shoot at f22, just that it would have been good to mention the potential down sides of doing so for those who might not know. Great tutorial and advice overall as always from Fstoppers! :)
That tip on the aperture makes sense. I wonder if the new Z series cameras pre compose TL at 4K? Another technique is to shoot RAW and import to Lightroom and tweak before spitting out JPGs. But thanks, this is great.
I shoot timelapse astrophotography and I use Qdslr and LRTimelapse, Yeah the pro license for LRT is around $300 bucks but I do post through Lightroom and LRT, you have WAY more control over your images. The graphic interface in LRT is really easy and brilliant. I've processed 6000+ RAW files for double Holy Grails this way. Yes you need a really fast machine and lots of storage to play in this league but the results are uncompromising and smooth.
For the right exposure/sweetspot I will aply the same rule for video exposure. 180 degree shutter. If you want photos every 2 seconds, the right exposure will be half that time: 1 second.
Curious how you'd deal with changing light levels? The only way I can come up with is to do it completely in post production and keeping the exposures slightly underexposed to avoid overexposed loss.
If you twist the lens slightly, so the contacts aren't connected, you cant prevent the APERTURE BLADES in the lens from opening and closing with each shot. (There is no "shutter" IN the lens itself)
It doesn't really change the focus, @@chainsaw2046 You just twist it far enough so that the contacts that control the aperture blades aren't in contact.
You should reference this as shutter angle. If you want something that resembles most films, you want a 180 degree angle. What does that mean? It means that your shutter should be open for half of the frame length and closed for half of it. Essentially, you want your shutter speed to be half of your exposure interval. When shooting video, you'd be shooting at 24fps so you would set your shutter speed to 1/48 (or 1/50 since most cameras don't have a 1/48 option.) If you want your timelapse to shoot a frame every 4 seconds, you'd want to set your shutter to have a 2s exposure. In the middle of the day, even at f/22 and
I've heard people argue this for timelapses but I don't think it matters at all. When you have a 2-4 second blur, the motion is so blurred that I don't think the shutter angle really matters anymore. I don't care so much as how many images I take per second, I just care about the aesthetic of a single frame and then I want to capture as many frames as possible back to back. I had a guy try to tell me that when shooting sky timelapses you need a 180 shutter but I don't think anyone can tell if the motion between moving clouds is 90 degrees or 180 degrees. You can with fast motion of people at 1/50th and 1/120th of a second but with clouds and long shutters, it doesn't really matter. -P
Not sure if it works on Nikon cameras, but with Canon DSLR's, there is a trick to lock the aperture of your lens by pressing the DOF preview button and SLIGHTLY unmounting the lens from the camera (press the lens release button and slightly twist so that it loses its data connection to the camera) you'll see that the aperture will now read a F00, but it will stay locked in place! Use caution! don't twist the lens off too far that it can fall to the ground!
Can you do a video on a sunset time-lapse? With the light changing so much from the time you start till the time you end I'm not sure how I should lock in my settings.
To get around the flickering without using ND-filters, you can set the aperture you want and hold in the "aperture preview" button while you loosen the lens just a little bit so you break the electronic contact to the camera. But don't loosen it too much, be careful =)
Yeah thats an option too. I prefer focus on the shutter button and AE/AF lock button to lock the focus button when pressed. You can use any method you'd like though as long as your AF isn't engaging throughout the capture.
Thank you so much for this video! It helped me a lot, I was wondering what that weird flicker was in my time lapse videos because I was shooting at f10+ for scenery. Cheers! :)
use daVinci to remove Flicker... works quite well import into davinci not as single shots but rather as image-sequence. this way you don't have to worry about them being in the right order and everything else. simply open the import window and select the first frame and then check the "as image sequence" (or alike) checkbox
Great video....love the fade from magic hour to black. If you shot at 30/frames/sec would it look better? And knowing after effects...you can also add motion blur after the fact to a sequence to get the streaking effect.
Hey Patrick, what tripod was that, that you put your camera on? It looked sturdier than any of the five tripods that I have. Yet it looks kind of light.
How about shooting a normal shot with good depth of field, pick the desired golden image with the least interruptions, and insert sections from other images where nothing exists to block it, and paste it into the golden image as the means to eliminate the ALL the unwanted items. That can make it look like you're the only one in that area.
Hi, thanks for the tutorial. How come and you were shooting at 2" at the same time that you set an interval of 2"? Should the interval time be at least double of the shutter time?
I should make a video on that technique. I always use manual mode because of flicker and automation seems to never work for me. It's a series of 2 maybe 3 different timelapses that I took back to back and then blended together. As the first one gets dark, I stack the second one over it and blend it with opacity or lighten mode. Then the final timelapse is at night shot just for the ambient lighting of the buildings and cars. That layer too is stacked somewhere so that the lights blend in. In this particular scene, the window lights on the building across the street never turned on so I did some layer masking in Photoshop and had a png file blend in too. It's pretty complicated to explain but pretty easy to pull off as long as you shoot enough timelapses. -P
Wow thanks, 2 second shutter speed is golden pro tip for almost any timelapse. I've been trying for years to get it right, shooting daylight never let you get that slow without massive ND easily missed. Also, D850 is incredible but don't use the movie MP4 timelapse mode it's for Vloggers quick and dirty. Instead upload yer 3 hundred edited Raw images into any good video software timeline at 1 frame per second.
...or you can lock in your F-stop and loosen your lens (pins can't talk), same as using a manual lens. That rids the flicker too. The camera will not be constantly recreating your desired aperture, it's locked in perfectly! Don't forget to tighten your lens after the shoot.
In a pure landscape scenery without any moving cars or people - what do you think is the right shutter speed for the clouds? Would you also go with 2 seconds? Maybe clouds are working better with a faster shutter speed?
Great tips in the video but i still have some questions! When you say that the absolute sweet spot for a timelapse is 2s shutter speed ,you mean generally or just for a bright scene like this one? Cause i know that every subject(clouds,stars,cars,flowers,moon etc) has his own interval time along with a specific shutter speed ,doesn't this affect the shutter speed for every case?And one more, when it starts getting darker, you have to anticipate that the shutter speed or f stop is appropriate to avoid getting underexposed? Sorry for possible grammar mistakes haha! Keep up the really good work!
2 seconds is the sweet spot for a timelapse that has any moving elements. If you are shooting clouds and weather, it doesn't matter because it will always be smooth but if you have cars or people moving, 2 seconds gives it a nice natural blur. -P
Awesome tips man, thanks a lot! Question: my Canon 5D Mark IV creates automatically the video file right after the last shot in the timelapse mode. Should I go with this simpler option or there's a possibility or improving it on Premiere? Keep up the great content!
Does it make a 4k file? If it only makes 1080 then use, you could make a higher res file with images and then also add motion in premiere. If it makes a 4k file, you can always make the same timelapse back to back and compare the photo one vs the in camera movie file. I personally prefer the camera making the timelapse so I don't have to save every single jpeg or raw file on the memory card. -P
😀 THANK YOU! This has always been bothering me. Speeding up video is just really not cutting it. Also thanks for those hints regarding aperture flicker and the jarring aspects of footage flow
Sorry if this has already been asked, but how long should you set the intervalometer to pause between frames, and how should this depend on the type of scene (traffic, clouds, etc.)?
Patrick, I absolutely enjoyed your video! I recently invested in a Canon T6i, I've had it on my vision board for some time now and I am proud of myself for working hard to be able to afford but now to learn how to best use it and get the most out of it. I loved how you explained each detail in a clean way! I just subscribed to your channel! if you happen to head over to my channel, I am giving you a fair warning there are some pretty poor quality videos there :/ but not biggie this will soon change! Thank you for taking the time to record this video and add value to newbies like me!
Yep. Pretty much lets you add artificial darkness to your scene. Think of it like sunglasses for your lens- down to the point that you can get both polarized and non
Although I was just mildly curious, and don't have the gear, I was captivated by the truly professional presentation by Patrick Hall.. Even though I don't have the exact camera or software, I was able to follow along and understand the concept as he showed and explained it in a thoroughly professional manner. He spoke clear English with ease and clear command of the subject. I really enjoyed this video. I learned things. Five stars.
Been working as a professional photographer for 20 years, this video proves that one can NEVER stop learning. Thanks for the video. Exicted to try this next week!
Joking? After 20 years you didn´t know you can exposure longer when using a ND filter? Or what excatly do you mean?
To save yourself a little trouble, you can import the entire set of timelapse images into Premiere as one single clip by going to: File > Import. Choose the first image in the sequence. Make sure the "Image Sequence" box is checked and then click Open. Now you won't have to copy and paste attributes to each frame and then nest them as they're already one clip. You can also go into Preferences > Media beforehand and set the Indeterminate Media Timebase to 23.976fps or whatever you like so it will automatically set the clip to that framerate on import. *Note that for this to work, all of the image files must be named sequentially.
Great tutorial guys! Thanks!!
If you shoot high res images that are more than 1080 or 4k, you will have to resize the footage anyways. Also, since your photos will probably be 2:3 or 4:5 aspect ratio, and video is 16:9, you are going to have to tweak the final timelapse to fit into your sequence anyways. The import option is def a way to do it but I've just always copied and pasted the jpegs so that I can easily fix any errors and see each individual frame easier.
Right, you will have to resize, but you can do it to the whole clip at once instead of copying and pasting the attribute to many and then nesting. Also, this way, if you decide to tweak the size again, you haven't lost the edges due to nesting.
I agree. Using the import as sequence is much easier. I think you are better off editing images in Lightroom/LRTimelapse first to fix any flicker.
@@FStoppers yes because you are not doing it the most optimal way
Or shoot with LUMIX cameras which do it all onboard, giving brilliant 4K anywhere, ready to download.
Don't bother dragging+dropping a large array of files. Just do a File > Import, and select the first frame of the sequence. Make sure the 'Image Sequence' box is checked at the bottom, and you are good to go --It's a single asset.
this.
That.
but can you change the "1 image per frame" setting with that technique?
@@evanoshea9506 yes
Yes that's easy than this
And i think premiere pro now only has 2 frames as the lowest
I import the jpegs as a sequence in another way, which I consider simpler: Just use Command+I, look for the folder where you have your files, click on the first image, then check the box on the left low corner of hat dialog box, and just "Import as a sequence". Voila! All your jpegs are imported as a sequence. Thanks for this video, I have learned a few things that were new to me!
You can use LR Timelapse for post production. This helps to fix the flickering and uses raw files. All in all in helps you to create better timelapses.
Yes definitely but it does require a lot more steps and requires you shoot in raw. Sometimes when we travel for weeks at a time and shoot dozens of timelapses, we don't have the server space to store 10,000+ raw files for timelapses. If you can remove the flicker at the time of capture, you shouldn't need to shoot raw for most of your timelapses but LR Timelapse is great for when you do need smoothing.
If you shoot raw, bring your sequence into an album in Lightroom, apply your edits, and then export the sequence and render the video in premiere or ae. I like working with the full frame edits first and then downscaling. Haven’t done it in a while and need to revisit the workflow. LR timelapse is also a gnarly Lr plug-in you can use to apply key framing to high res time lapses across a series of images in Lr. These produce very nice applications for light changes over time (think applying an exposure gradient to a sunrise scene)
that's the best software!
I've learned so much from fstoppers, I feel I have to give something back: LRTimelapse->Lightroom->After Effects. That is the optimal path. Not the fastest though, that's why you use jpegs, I suppose. And the f22 thing...I'd advice to avoid such extremes because of sensor dust and diffraction. Diffraction can be ignored because the final product is video, but sensor dust sometimes cannot be masked out in post. Another advantage using After Effects or any similar editor is that you can mask the jarring sea waves that annoy us and add extra motion blur to soften them without messing with the sky. That's my experience after 4 years and around 500 timelapses for various short and long film productions.
So many little tips and tricks throughout the video. Great job!
Timelapses were such a struggle for me. I definitely needed this. Thank you for reading my mind :)
Hello to my steadicam master 😊😊😊
You are my Idol when it comes to using Steadicam. Thank you for all the teachings in RUclips 😊
Very nice video BUT to ease your workflow here is a little tips : Instead of importing the way you've done it, just go to import, search for your pictures and then tick the "import as sequence" in the explorer. I've found out that it's much powerful, the playback is way better and seems that the computer likes it better this way ! :)
I don't know about Nikon, but with Canon you can choose your aperture then press and hold the DOF button and twist the lens from the contacts to lock in the aperture. This is the method I use for all my time lapses & AF system lenses to cut down on the aperture flicker..
Confirmed, also if your cannon dslr don`t have built in intervalometer google for Magic Lantern, must have thing
Our Canon shooters in the office confirm this too but is this an actual feature or is it more or less a hack that locks the aperture?
Hack. aka :Lens twist hack. Also, don't twist to much. Just enough so the contact are no aligned." I don't want anyone to twist to much and drop there lens"
Exactly. ML is a must have for all Canon shooters
ML stopped development for the 5Dm3 at firmware 1.2.3, it isn't very useful to those who updated to the most recent (1.3.5)
Converging lines is NOT caused by using a wide angle lens. It is caused by having the film plane at an angle from vertical.
These tutorials are so helpful! I just uploaded my first ever timelapse video (about the city of Bern in Switzerland) and without the help from these tutorials i could not have done it. Thanks!
Ha!!! Now that's awesome! Never thought about making timelapses with a 2s exposure!! Looks so cool! Can't wait to test that!
That's why you always ramp the speed % down during editing the final video file. 70% is a good place to start. I've gone down to 60% with great results on hyperlapses.
Best behind the scene out there yet. 9/10👌🏾
On canon, to fix the flicker issue, hold the aperture DOF button and unscrew the lens slightly. Oldest trick in the book. Idk about Nikon.
Haha I use that for reverse ring macro
Stopping down to f22 was painful to watch. So many reasons you should avoid doing that unless ABSOLUTELY necessary. If there is any dust/dirt on your sensor it will stick out like a sore thumb, and you'll also reduce image quality due to diffraction. Probably should have mentioned that in the video. Definitely agree you should be using ND filters for this style of photography!
Yeah, I only did it to maximize the shutter speed without any ND filters. I would never suggest shooting at f/22
Dylan, F22 looks fine with many lenses, espcially when the delivery is 4k, or, more likely 2k. The F22 diffraction spikes can be interesting also. I have demonstated F22 looking just fine, yes it is a tad softer, but this is video, and add a little unsharp mask, and all is good.
Dylan, F22 looks fine with many lenses, espcially when the delivery is 4k, or, more likely 2k. The F22 diffraction spikes can be interesting also. I have demonstated F22 looking just fine, yes it is a tad softer, but this is video, and add a little unsharp mask, and all is good.
Nor Dic I completely agree that most lenses will be fine for all but the most picky of pixel peepers from a diffraction standpoint. However, you will still have the smallest dust particles on your sensor stand out very clearly, requiring addition retouching in post. I wasn't meaning to say that you should never shoot at f22, just that it would have been good to mention the potential down sides of doing so for those who might not know. Great tutorial and advice overall as always from Fstoppers! :)
One thing I'm wondering, what camera did you use to film yourself in this video? It's crisp!!
5:10 You can stop the camera changing the appeture by disengaging the lens slightly so the camera no longer controls the lens.
That tip on the aperture makes sense. I wonder if the new Z series cameras pre compose TL at 4K? Another technique is to shoot RAW and import to Lightroom and tweak before spitting out JPGs. But thanks, this is great.
I shoot timelapse astrophotography and I use Qdslr and LRTimelapse, Yeah the pro license for LRT is around $300 bucks but I do post through Lightroom and LRT, you have WAY more control over your images. The graphic interface in LRT is really easy and brilliant. I've processed 6000+ RAW files for double Holy Grails this way. Yes you need a really fast machine and lots of storage to play in this league but the results are uncompromising and smooth.
I've been to that area many times. It's neat to be able to recognize where you're shooting.
Where is it? Charleston maybe?
For the right exposure/sweetspot I will aply the same rule for video exposure. 180 degree shutter. If you want photos every 2 seconds, the right exposure will be half that time: 1 second.
so what is the ideal shutter speed when i shoot every 2 sec?
guys , you are the best on youtube and probably in the whole universe!!!!
Curious how you'd deal with changing light levels? The only way I can come up with is to do it completely in post production and keeping the exposures slightly underexposed to avoid overexposed loss.
shoot in Av mode in this case, but then you'll have to remove the flicker (I recommend the LRTimelapse for that)
Very cool. I didn't know about the aperture causing the flicker. I do lots of timelapses with an 8mm manual aperture lens, so I've never noticed this.
Lumix Cameras do this so well and easily in video with low shutter speeds as well as photo mode.
Why not use the import image sequence in Premiere pro, it saves having to nest and saves a lot of time on export.
Thanks for taking the time to make this. A lot of great information here.
I learned a lot from your video. Thank you. Most appreciated.
If you twist the lens slightly, so the contacts aren't connected, you cant prevent the APERTURE BLADES in the lens from opening and closing with each shot.
(There is no "shutter" IN the lens itself)
I really like doing this to mess with focus and aperture on my digital camera. It's kinda cool to experiment with, reminds me of close focus lenses.
It doesn't really change the focus, @@chainsaw2046
You just twist it far enough so that the contacts that control the aperture blades aren't in contact.
Oh, I meant going all the way off the camera..
Hi great video!! Is the zoom effect done on post? Or in the camera? Thank you!!
Cool video! I would also suggest sandbagging the tripod, which I know is kind of 'old school.'
You should reference this as shutter angle. If you want something that resembles most films, you want a 180 degree angle. What does that mean? It means that your shutter should be open for half of the frame length and closed for half of it.
Essentially, you want your shutter speed to be half of your exposure interval. When shooting video, you'd be shooting at 24fps so you would set your shutter speed to 1/48 (or 1/50 since most cameras don't have a 1/48 option.)
If you want your timelapse to shoot a frame every 4 seconds, you'd want to set your shutter to have a 2s exposure. In the middle of the day, even at f/22 and
I've heard people argue this for timelapses but I don't think it matters at all. When you have a 2-4 second blur, the motion is so blurred that I don't think the shutter angle really matters anymore. I don't care so much as how many images I take per second, I just care about the aesthetic of a single frame and then I want to capture as many frames as possible back to back. I had a guy try to tell me that when shooting sky timelapses you need a 180 shutter but I don't think anyone can tell if the motion between moving clouds is 90 degrees or 180 degrees. You can with fast motion of people at 1/50th and 1/120th of a second but with clouds and long shutters, it doesn't really matter. -P
Audio is pretty pretty good... What wireless microphone do you use? Also, what did you use to video this... tutorial video? thanks dude.
Not sure if it works on Nikon cameras, but with Canon DSLR's, there is a trick to lock the aperture of your lens by pressing the DOF preview button and SLIGHTLY unmounting the lens from the camera (press the lens release button and slightly twist so that it loses its data connection to the camera) you'll see that the aperture will now read a F00, but it will stay locked in place! Use caution! don't twist the lens off too far that it can fall to the ground!
Can you do a video on a sunset time-lapse? With the light changing so much from the time you start till the time you end I'm not sure how I should lock in my settings.
To get around the flickering without using ND-filters, you can set the aperture you want and hold in the "aperture preview" button while you loosen the lens just a little bit so you break the electronic contact to the camera. But don't loosen it too much, be careful =)
Have to shoot time lapse for work this weekend. Great info.
Came here because my Sony does timelapses now. Great Video! Thanks!
new firmware?
I find using back button focus much easier than switching to manual focus to lock the focus on the shutter button
Yeah thats an option too. I prefer focus on the shutter button and AE/AF lock button to lock the focus button when pressed. You can use any method you'd like though as long as your AF isn't engaging throughout the capture.
@@FStoppers I have them on both. shutter button and back button for af. Lol
I grew up in Charleston. Miss that town but not the traffic! Great video...
Thank you so much for this video! It helped me a lot, I was wondering what that weird flicker was in my time lapse videos because I was shooting at f10+ for scenery. Cheers! :)
If you hold CTRL and click and drag you can change the scale values in premiere more smooth to get the perfect value that you want.
Loved the explanation and I learned something new today about the flickering issue.
this was so informational... absolutely love it!!! Thank you!!!
use daVinci to remove Flicker... works quite well
import into davinci not as single shots but rather as image-sequence. this way you don't have to worry about them being in the right order and everything else. simply open the import window and select the first frame and then check the "as image sequence" (or alike) checkbox
oh really hepfull.... like everything about tym laps in single video
Great video....love the fade from magic hour to black. If you shot at 30/frames/sec would it look better? And knowing after effects...you can also add motion blur after the fact to a sequence to get the streaking effect.
Nikon D-850 Wow! Superb camera
Very informative.. Excellent work 👏
Its nice that the "how-to" videos are back!
That last time lapse was sweet. I gotta get back out at night again
this was a wonderful video, thank you for making it ; much success to you
Hey Patrick, what tripod was that, that you put your camera on? It looked sturdier than any of the five tripods that I have. Yet it looks kind of light.
How about shooting a normal shot with good depth of field, pick the desired golden image with the least interruptions, and insert sections from other images where nothing exists to block it, and paste it into the golden image as the means to eliminate the ALL the unwanted items. That can make it look like you're the only one in that area.
Good info - glad I have a career history in tech - nice to combine all the tech with the latest & greatest camera's today
So how do you make a sunset/sunrise timelapse - with the sweet spot at 2 seconds?
I made one just yesterday with a 10 stop Hoya and my 20mm Nikkor f/1.8. Simple.
"I'm going to go ahead and put my camera into intervalometer mode"
*cries in a7riii*
Jake Clark you can get an app
@@ginbarker2062 They removed the app for a7iii
@@liam4184 I use open memories tweak, it has every feature this guy just said .
Wait for the new firmware in March :)
Gin Barker der
Excellent tips, thanks very much, I wish I lived in such amazing looking places
Great video, thanks for the helpful tips!
You guys alwys put such an amazing amount of work into your videos. Really great stuff.
I was about to say that thumbnail shot looked amazing and glad to have seen it at the end.
Hi, thanks for the tutorial. How come and you were shooting at 2" at the same time that you set an interval of 2"? Should the interval time be at least double of the shutter time?
i was thinking the same
Thought so
But it should not be the double
Just 2 or 4 seconds for dark time in enough
Thanks useful.BTW just add a "moving time lapse" capable gimbal like the crane plus and it is also rotating or "moving"! Look cool.
Thanks for the great explanation. I love the results. I'm curious about how the sunset at the end was achieved, was aperture or shutter priority used?
I should make a video on that technique. I always use manual mode because of flicker and automation seems to never work for me. It's a series of 2 maybe 3 different timelapses that I took back to back and then blended together. As the first one gets dark, I stack the second one over it and blend it with opacity or lighten mode. Then the final timelapse is at night shot just for the ambient lighting of the buildings and cars. That layer too is stacked somewhere so that the lights blend in. In this particular scene, the window lights on the building across the street never turned on so I did some layer masking in Photoshop and had a png file blend in too. It's pretty complicated to explain but pretty easy to pull off as long as you shoot enough timelapses. -P
@@FStoppers Clever! I would not have guessed. I'm definitely going to try day time and sunrise soon. Thanks
Wow thanks, 2 second shutter speed is golden pro tip for almost any timelapse. I've been trying for years to get it right, shooting daylight never let you get that slow without massive ND easily missed.
Also, D850 is incredible but don't use the movie MP4 timelapse mode it's for Vloggers quick and dirty. Instead upload yer 3 hundred edited Raw images into any good video software timeline at 1 frame per second.
...or you can lock in your F-stop and loosen your lens (pins can't talk), same as using a manual lens. That rids the flicker too. The camera will not be constantly recreating your desired aperture, it's locked in perfectly! Don't forget to tighten your lens after the shoot.
In a pure landscape scenery without any moving cars or people - what do you think is the right shutter speed for the clouds? Would you also go with 2 seconds? Maybe clouds are working better with a faster shutter speed?
Four fingers inside pocket and the thumb is out. I've learned it in a wedding photography workshop. :)
Could you compensate for the converging lines with a tilt-shift lens?
absolutely! The only caveat is that some wide angle tilt shift lenses don't allow screw on filters to attach
Fstoppers thanks for the reply!
Great video .... but how are you able to obtain the great blur of ur gonna do a day yo night or night to day , with the 10 stop Nd?
How would do you hyper time lapse using this technique?
Great tips in the video but i still have some questions!
When you say that the absolute sweet spot for a timelapse is 2s shutter speed ,you mean generally or just for a bright scene like this one? Cause i know that every subject(clouds,stars,cars,flowers,moon etc) has his own interval time along with a specific shutter speed ,doesn't this affect the shutter speed for every case?And one more, when it starts getting darker, you have to anticipate that the shutter speed or f stop is appropriate to avoid getting underexposed?
Sorry for possible grammar mistakes haha!
Keep up the really good work!
2 seconds is the sweet spot for a timelapse that has any moving elements. If you are shooting clouds and weather, it doesn't matter because it will always be smooth but if you have cars or people moving, 2 seconds gives it a nice natural blur. -P
@@FStoppers oh! i really get it now! thank you so much for your answer!
Awesome tips man, thanks a lot! Question: my Canon 5D Mark IV creates automatically the video file right after the last shot in the timelapse mode. Should I go with this simpler option or there's a possibility or improving it on Premiere? Keep up the great content!
Does it make a 4k file? If it only makes 1080 then use, you could make a higher res file with images and then also add motion in premiere. If it makes a 4k file, you can always make the same timelapse back to back and compare the photo one vs the in camera movie file. I personally prefer the camera making the timelapse so I don't have to save every single jpeg or raw file on the memory card. -P
Nice content very in depth. Thanks hope i can apply it as well. Great job 😃
Thanks, have been looking for exactly this. Learned more than with the previous 10 videos ;)
😀 THANK YOU! This has always been bothering me. Speeding up video is just really not cutting it. Also thanks for those hints regarding aperture flicker and the jarring aspects of footage flow
Yes apuert
Yes aperture flicker has been ruining my time lapse too
Love it，learn more about timelapse
Man I miss summer
Luckily we arent in game of thrones, where a winter can last many years.
one of the best practical videos. thank you
Sorry if this has already been asked, but how long should you set the intervalometer to pause between frames, and how should this depend on the type of scene (traffic, clouds, etc.)?
Thanks for the tips!
beautiful work ❤️ learnt something interesting
Patrick, I absolutely enjoyed your video! I recently invested in a Canon T6i, I've had it on my vision board for some time now and I am proud of myself for working hard to be able to afford but now to learn how to best use it and get the most out of it. I loved how you explained each detail in a clean way! I just subscribed to your channel! if you happen to head over to my channel, I am giving you a fair warning there are some pretty poor quality videos there :/ but not biggie this will soon change! Thank you for taking the time to record this video and add value to newbies like me!
Good information and very useful for either video or photo.
Please suggest best remote shutter release for sony a7iii and if possible make a video on it
I think on a Panasonic I can use EFC to eliminate the aperture flicker. Is that right?
So a ND filter lets me have longer exposures in lets say daylight, without getting the picture too bright?
Yep. Pretty much lets you add artificial darkness to your scene. Think of it like sunglasses for your lens- down to the point that you can get both polarized and non
You got it
Fantastic explanation. Thank you 🙏🏻
Love your videos sir 🙏
Nahi chahiye Guy is here. 😀
nahi chahiye ji
Excellent informative & entertaining Video. Thumbs up & I Subscribed.!
You did make a security guy from the courthouse nervous 4:00
Does the photo thing work if you want a 2, 4, 6, or 8 minute long timelapse?
Some v. useful information thanks!
I always heard you should avoid wide-angle lenses for architecture.
usually they use tilt-shift ,but if you have a wide angle that is Rectilinear ,Zero D, no distortion you can easily to amazing stuff
You will also hear that wide angle lenses are ideal for architecture.
what software did you use for post production? how much does it cost?
you could do that work in Hitfilm Express, which is free. Davinci Resolve as well.
Thanks
This is a superb tutorial.
The camera work.... piece of cake. Computer stuff, impossibly complicated....no editing for me.