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Nice vid Bob, my instructor always told us these words when explaining something to us. " I'm gonna show you a way to do this, remember this is a way and not the way to do this". Hope I said that right. Have a good day.
Hey buddy I've been around a lot of different people and there Steps of building and I agree with all your ways of doing Ur project Right.... Great Video
Thanks for knowledgeable information always a pleasure watching your videos ,that sneeze have me falling off my seat.Where did that beard go wink wink.
With these same reasoning I will never do another shower floor with a porous material (marble etc) - For me is only porcelain with a waterproof grout such as Fusion Pro or Epoxy, No other way for me....
Did u mitter the outer egdes on this project? Ever used the montolit jolly? I love doing mitter cut tilling. Love your work Buddy. Thumbs up from a colleague from the Netherlands. 👍
I'm in the process of doing a very similar project. I had to replace all my old wrought iron drains with pvc. I figure since I've had to spend a week cutting new paths through my slab, anyway, I'd go ahead and put in a curb-less shower as well. After watching this, I think I'll do Red Guard as well. I have the time to let it set-up if necessary. I'm installing a linear drain at the back of the shower with one straight slop from the front to the back. But that leaves a lip of concrete along the sides. I'm not sure how I'm going to transition it to my backer board. I wonder if I can use thinset to smooth the transition, Red Guard on top, and then thinset for my tile?
You can use thinset, but was something like that I would use the quick setting mortar mix. Actually did a curbless shower like you are talking about where I had a transition, I will see if I can search for the video and Link it.
Bob thank you for uploading these very educational videos, I’m a DIY’er, my next project is to redo my master bath, my wife wants a curbless (beach access type) tub to shower conversion on a concrete slab. This video will serve a my guide of how to approach the project. I have one question, can I use a pan liner after I form the new concrete pan? Should I use thinset to secure the liner to the concrete pan? I enjoy your videos, keep them coming. Frank
Every situation is different, I ran into a conundrum here and did it the best way that I could figure out, normally pan liners are too thick to make things happen on a slab type of shower.. I don't believe that thinset with stick well enough to a liner so I would not take that chance, if you're going to use a liner I would use a couple of tubes of caulking very liberal, when I have done that before better than silicone I use a latex caulk
Great finished look. I appreciate your frankness too. Im a handyman with journeyman skill. I’ve been asked to do a tub to curbless shower convention in a 1920’s Chicago multi family building (brick exterior) that has a rectangular bath similar to what you would find in most single level ranch homes; door, vanity, toilet, tub, exterior wall. It’s all very tight. The client wants a full-length glass door panel and door as well as a small bench. Do you have any recommendations regarding materials and techniques?
Wow, way too many details to go into on a comment section , you will have to go through RUclips with everybody's curbless shower and all of their methods including mine and just find out your own way I suppose
I love your channel and watched hrs of your videos before I tackled building my own custom shower and mud bed. I have a question regarding hanging the wall board a 1/2 to 1" off the pan to prevent wicking. When you do this an fill the gap on bottom with thinset or grout won't that also wick the water up to the concrete board. Just wondering i am hopeful the fusion pro that I used will prevent that.
It wasn't my phone...I almost always use a camcorder, but currently in Jamaica...not sure of the issue, but done deal now. Catch ya Friday for next one ;-)
I really don't get your dislike for Schluter. You agree it is 100% waterproof yet you back it up with Redguard? The only issue I had with Schluter is that it is tricky to get the thinset applied to the wall evenly before applying it. For a professional, this shouldn't be an issue since it will come easier with practice. A plus for Schluter is that you can use plain drywall and you don't mud the joints. Actually, must not use greenboard and if joints must only be filled with setting plaster. Honestly, I have a hard time believing that Redguard is that good. So much depends on how even you apply it.
Rapidset, or any other products of a "concrete nature" never make a water seal in a "butted" format. I suggest you simply add a crack-isolation material over all seams.
@@StarrTile , good job Starr... also, keep in mind, that the rapid-set is not a ''cement based'' product but you are okay in using it for these applications. It does need to be moist cured, meaning keep it damp, or at least wet a cloth down and let that wick into the surface... Wish you the best.
I see that you schluttered up to the flange and screwed the flange then red guarded. What then. You usually put in drain, then mortor bed up to drain but looks like you just tiled on top of redguard. What did you do?
I'm building a 5x7 shower in the basement on a slab with a mortar bed and a curb, all new construction. To cover the sides, floor and the curb, my shower pan liner would need to be 7' x 9'. Would applying the Kerdi membrane to the floor (and 6" up the sides) along with a Kerdi drain, then Redguard up the remaining walls be my best option? Do they even make the 40 mil pvc liner this big? I've been watching your videos and they have been very helpful. Right now the size of the liner is what I'm hung up on. Thanks in advance.
If you choose a liner then you could get the specific glue to overlap each piece of liner by about three or four inches and it will become one larger piece... I've done it before when necessary. The thin membrane of Schluter could work also but it has to have a specific purpose for me as I've only used it a few times because nothing else would work
If I use a 48x72 Kerdi tray that has a center drain can I dry pack the 1 foot area around the tray then use Kerdi band at the seems with thin set? Thank you!
Since you are not doing a shower pan liner, did you not use the middle section of the drain that you would usually clamp the liner under? Fixing to buy my drain .
So do you build up the thin set around the drain to clear the “hub” and the bolts? I know on a normal application you would fill it all in with the deck mud, I’m unclear on how this would work with the slab/Kerdi. Maybe I need to release the bottom flange a little? Thank you once again for the help! Moving and setting the drain tomorrow!
@@sikassscivic I used quick set mortar to skim out the 3/4 inch of the bottom flange and match it up with the outer parts of the pan itself, that's the only real mortar that was used because you don't need a mortar bed for this application
You should to include a rough sketch or diagram of the components or show the work in videos. When you just describe with a lot of missing detail then jump to finished phases and say “welp there she is” it leaves many questions for us.
Did you have any issues with the kerdi wanting to not sit flat on the floor with the slope? Does it stretch to conform to the slope or does it wrinkle up ?
Yes it's at flat on the floor with no wrinkles, large enough area where that was not an issue, plus it was put down with thinset and if I'm not mistaken I probably put bags of mortar on it overnight
I watch your channel from time to time and thought maybe you could answer a question. A friend of mine had an ADA curbless shower installed for a family member about four years ago. Now, that family member has passed away and they want to move into the house. The woman wants a curb on the shower but, jeepers, seems would be a total redo. Is there any way one could just be added? I can't see it but need to ask.
There is no possible way to tell you that in the comment section , you would have to do a consult with me, possibly send me videos but definitely send me pictures of what you have
Yes you possibly could as long as you are one hundred percent confident that you have done a good job, I don't take that chance because I have a customer base to answer to
Guys one of the biggest parts of this job is installing the plumbing for the drain and you practically skipped over it. We need to see the connection from new drain to the main drain line
Here you obviously put the kerdi BEHIND the wallboard. Everyone I see use kerdi, they put it in front of it. I like the idea of using redgard+kerdi on the walls, because kerdi is too expensive to throw on the walls IMO, but any particular reason you do not put it in front of the wall?
Typically I use a liquid waterproofer on the walls outside as I do with this Redguard, however the curry that I used was specifically for a pan liner has a curbless shower is easier to build with a cloth membrane like Kerdi than it would be with a rubber membrane, therefore the Kerdi was a pan liner, then Redguard went on top
How come you never show the details being done? You just tell what you're gonna do and then show it after it's done. And time to invest in a decent camera
Mr Bob, is there something wrong with my phone or was your camera, it looks like PlayStation, I’m saying that just like a comment, nothing wrong with the content of the video. Nice by the way !!!👍🏻
@@samuelspornhauer1019 it was in the video...I didn't cut ALL the concrete out, just hammered out enough to get a slope, buttered out rapid set on it and installed kerdi membrane.
You can use a lawnmower to cut your grass, or you can use a pair of scissors. Both methods will yield the same results, one just requires a lot more work. I know people can be set in their ways, but why not use the product like it was intended? If you're going to spend the money on Kerdi, install it in the manner it was designed to be used. Mud the pan, kerdi the entire shower and bench, install tile. It's done that way thousands of times every month by thousands of different installers. Even though you ended up with a waterproof box to install your tile, a lot of unnecessary time and labor was invested to achieve that goal. Time is money in the tile business. Quality prep work is paramount, but it can be achieved using modern products and methods that don't take multiple days to install.
I am paid very well by my customers and time is allocated to each job I do, getting out earlier will not yield me any more money, my next job is already pre-planned and I can't just pop in a day or two early... my focus has never been to get it done quick, my focus is to get it done good. Insofar as the product goes it is never been reliable in my opinion, there are too many errors that can occur and there have been tests done where there has been some leakage the way they engineered it to overlap. It did however serve a purpose on this particular job and was modified to suit my need.. I find absolutely no advantage to installing it correctly and having a failure. Of course if I were being paid by the manufacturer to make a video on how to install it then there would be that, but I wasn't👌
Do you have any favorite people you watch on RUclips? If you do there is a good chance they are getting paid for all of those little ads that you see... not only is RUclips paying them but they also have online stores where they sell product, they usually have a patreon account, PayPal, and many others to monetize what they put out there. They are making thousands a month, don't fool yourself that they are putting free content out because they are trying to help you, they're trying to help their bank account. I make zip from my videos, so yeah, if ppl donate to me because I provide info and save them money then what exactly is wrong with that ? Tell me one RUclipsr that you follow and I will tell you what he makes on a monthly basis👍
Every RUclipsr out there makes money from Google for the ads you watch, they also have merch, they also have sponsors, being on RUclips is nothing but a money-making machine.... I have well over 600 videos over the course of 14 years on RUclips and I don't make a dime from RUclips or merch or anything else , the information that I provide is 100% free to whoever watches it so then why would not I asked for a few dollars for that ??? And honestly I could really care less if I have subscribers or not, especially with someone like yourself with that attitude you have, don't let the door hit your ass on the way out
@StarrTile Attitude? I simply stated why I unsubscribed, you sound like a prosperity preacher, "giving to us what we need for free" however asking for money complaining about merch, ads, revenue etc. Look man here's what I'm saying, if you hope to make money then let it happen, if your doing videos out of the goodness of your heart don't expect money. If you want revenue then make it relevant, make it better. IMO and I've seen a lot of videos, and you have put out some good info but you have also put out some not so good info. Just like every other person out there. Your content value is low hence why you're not monetized. I don't ever see other pro installers asking for money, it's usually the junior guys. If you're info is valuable and relevant then people will subscribe. If you want to sell merchandise then make it and sell it. If you were really good you would team up and work together. Good luck man, that sound you heard was the door hitting my a** on the way out.
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I am a child sitter 30 plus years thank you for your information the videos are very clear and understanding thank you again
LOL tile setter. Not child setter 😂😂
Nice vid Bob, my instructor always told us these words when explaining something to us. " I'm gonna show you a way to do this, remember this is a way and not the way to do this". Hope I said that right. Have a good day.
Thank You, I like the saying ;-)
Awww, yiss! THE video I have been waiting for.
I want to redo my master bath as curbless and I'm on slab. Keep seeing wood framed jobs.
Cool, glad I could help....sorry for poor quality vid
This is what needs to be done for my second bathroom renovation. Thank you for posting this!
Love the end result ! You're on point with this, improvised as it is it'll be waterproof for sure
Yes it will, and thanks for the comment
Your camera plays tricks on my eyes.
When you pan to your floors I feel like I'm looking at a sterogram. 😂
Hey buddy I've been around a lot of different people and there Steps of building and I agree with all your ways of doing Ur project Right.... Great Video
A little more thin-set on the back of your goatee would've done the trick! Great video as always Bob!
WOW so gorgeous! You created a lovely space for your clients.
Love that sneeze gag!!!! HA. your videos are getting better and better! Love the editing work you have done!
Thanks !
This video is a great preview to what an acid trip looks like
I used to put wallboard ontop of the tub, I dont do that anymore after watching your vids
Thanks for knowledgeable information always a pleasure watching your videos ,that sneeze have me falling off my seat.Where did that beard go wink wink.
With these same reasoning I will never do another shower floor with a porous material (marble etc) - For me is only porcelain with a waterproof grout such as Fusion Pro or Epoxy, No other way for me....
too bad you sneezed off the goatee Bob. A wise man once said "The better tiler. has a goatee " Hahaha!!!
lol I have a goatee and im a tiler. I must be a good one then.
Did u mitter the outer egdes on this project?
Ever used the montolit jolly? I love doing mitter cut tilling.
Love your work Buddy.
Thumbs up from a colleague from the Netherlands. 👍
Had to double take when you sneezed your beard off lol.
I'm in the process of doing a very similar project. I had to replace all my old wrought iron drains with pvc. I figure since I've had to spend a week cutting new paths through my slab, anyway, I'd go ahead and put in a curb-less shower as well. After watching this, I think I'll do Red Guard as well. I have the time to let it set-up if necessary. I'm installing a linear drain at the back of the shower with one straight slop from the front to the back. But that leaves a lip of concrete along the sides. I'm not sure how I'm going to transition it to my backer board. I wonder if I can use thinset to smooth the transition, Red Guard on top, and then thinset for my tile?
You can use thinset, but was something like that I would use the quick setting mortar mix. Actually did a curbless shower like you are talking about where I had a transition, I will see if I can search for the video and Link it.
ruclips.net/video/9RKR6Wyd25M/видео.html
Thanks for the video brotha
You CAN'T Handle the Truth!!
All time Classic
Bob thank you for uploading these very educational videos, I’m a DIY’er, my next project is to redo my master bath, my wife wants a curbless (beach access type) tub to shower conversion on a concrete slab.
This video will serve a my guide of how to approach the project.
I have one question, can I use a pan liner after I form the new concrete pan? Should I use thinset to secure the liner to the concrete pan?
I enjoy your videos, keep them coming.
Frank
Every situation is different, I ran into a conundrum here and did it the best way that I could figure out, normally pan liners are too thick to make things happen on a slab type of shower.. I don't believe that thinset with stick well enough to a liner so I would not take that chance, if you're going to use a liner I would use a couple of tubes of caulking very liberal, when I have done that before better than silicone I use a latex caulk
Great finished look. I appreciate your frankness too. Im a handyman with journeyman skill. I’ve been asked to do a tub to curbless shower convention in a 1920’s Chicago multi family building (brick exterior) that has a rectangular bath similar to what you would find in most single level ranch homes; door, vanity, toilet, tub, exterior wall. It’s all very tight. The client wants a full-length glass door panel and door as well as a small bench. Do you have any recommendations regarding materials and techniques?
Wow, way too many details to go into on a comment section , you will have to go through RUclips with everybody's curbless shower and all of their methods including mine and just find out your own way I suppose
I love your channel and watched hrs of your videos before I tackled building my own custom shower and mud bed. I have a question regarding hanging the wall board a 1/2 to 1" off the pan to prevent wicking. When you do this an fill the gap on bottom with thinset or grout won't that also wick the water up to the concrete board. Just wondering i am hopeful the fusion pro that I used will prevent that.
I never fill that Gap with anyting, a lot of people want to use some silicone but I don't really see the point
Love the sneeze
Kick ass. Nice. How good is the "stickion" of red guard to Kerri? What sealant did u use to seal the Kerri to the drain assembly?. Lates
Redgard sticks to anything I know of, worked well on this. Used silicone at the drain
@@StarrTile and did u check your phone????????
It wasn't my phone...I almost always use a camcorder, but currently in Jamaica...not sure of the issue, but done deal now. Catch ya Friday for next one ;-)
I really don't get your dislike for Schluter. You agree it is 100% waterproof yet you back it up with Redguard? The only issue I had with Schluter is that it is tricky to get the thinset applied to the wall evenly before applying it. For a professional, this shouldn't be an issue since it will come easier with practice.
A plus for Schluter is that you can use plain drywall and you don't mud the joints. Actually, must not use greenboard and if joints must only be filled with setting plaster.
Honestly, I have a hard time believing that Redguard is that good. So much depends on how even you apply it.
Because schluter is spendy and I think he likes to show people you don’t have to jump on the schluter train, theres other options.
Rapidset, or any other products of a "concrete nature" never make a water seal in a "butted" format.
I suggest you simply add a crack-isolation material over all seams.
Exactly why I painted on 2 coats of Redgard
@@StarrTile , good job Starr... also, keep in mind, that the rapid-set is not a ''cement based'' product but you are okay in using it for these applications. It does need to be moist cured, meaning keep it damp, or at least wet a cloth down and let that wick into the surface... Wish you the best.
I see that you schluttered up to the flange and screwed the flange then red guarded. What then. You usually put in drain, then mortor bed up to drain but looks like you just tiled on top of redguard. What did you do?
Hello. Loved you video on improvisation. How did you tiled over the oatey shower drain with screws and plastic locking part ?thank you.
I'm not sure what you're talking about, I use the kerdi material then poured the pan with mortar, waterproof it then tiled over that
I'm building a 5x7 shower in the basement on a slab with a mortar bed and a curb, all new construction. To cover the sides, floor and the curb, my shower pan liner would need to be 7' x 9'. Would applying the Kerdi membrane to the floor (and 6" up the sides) along with a Kerdi drain, then Redguard up the remaining walls be my best option? Do they even make the 40 mil pvc liner this big? I've been watching your videos and they have been very helpful. Right now the size of the liner is what I'm hung up on. Thanks in advance.
If you choose a liner then you could get the specific glue to overlap each piece of liner by about three or four inches and it will become one larger piece... I've done it before when necessary. The thin membrane of Schluter could work also but it has to have a specific purpose for me as I've only used it a few times because nothing else would work
@@StarrTile Thank you for the reply. I just found another video on doing just that. Now I'm all set. Cheers!
If I use a 48x72 Kerdi tray that has a center drain can I dry pack the 1 foot area around the tray then use Kerdi band at the seems with thin set? Thank you!
great work
Since you are not doing a shower pan liner, did you not use the middle section of the drain that you would usually clamp the liner under? Fixing to buy my drain .
Did it same as a liner...same x cut on bolt heads and center
So do you build up the thin set around the drain to clear the “hub” and the bolts? I know on a normal application you would fill it all in with the deck mud, I’m unclear on how this would work with the slab/Kerdi. Maybe I need to release the bottom flange a little? Thank you once again for the help! Moving and setting the drain tomorrow!
@@sikassscivic I used quick set mortar to skim out the 3/4 inch of the bottom flange and match it up with the outer parts of the pan itself, that's the only real mortar that was used because you don't need a mortar bed for this application
Standards are guidelines means and methods vary by field conditions.
You should to include a rough sketch or diagram of the components or show the work in videos. When you just describe with a lot of missing detail then jump to finished phases and say “welp there she is” it leaves many questions for us.
Mark Twain: There is more than one way to skin a cat. But however you do it, don't expect the cat's cooperation."
😂😂😂
Did you have any issues with the kerdi wanting to not sit flat on the floor with the slope? Does it stretch to conform to the slope or does it wrinkle up ?
Yes it's at flat on the floor with no wrinkles, large enough area where that was not an issue, plus it was put down with thinset and if I'm not mistaken I probably put bags of mortar on it overnight
I watch your channel from time to time and thought maybe you could answer a question.
A friend of mine had an ADA curbless shower installed for a family member about four years ago. Now, that family member has passed away and they want to move into the house. The woman wants a curb on the shower but, jeepers, seems would be a total redo. Is there any way one could just be added? I can't see it but need to ask.
There is no possible way to tell you that in the comment section , you would have to do a consult with me, possibly send me videos but definitely send me pictures of what you have
9:03 You know you've been using to much Red Guard, When...
Can you just red gard the concrete and set tile on top of red guard ??
Yes you possibly could as long as you are one hundred percent confident that you have done a good job, I don't take that chance because I have a customer base to answer to
I wish I could sneeze like that
Love your philosophy. Hate your camera. Audio is good.
Guys one of the biggest parts of this job is installing the plumbing for the drain and you practically skipped over it. We need to see the connection from new drain to the main drain line
what do you do to finish the corners of the niche?
Here you obviously put the kerdi BEHIND the wallboard. Everyone I see use kerdi, they put it in front of it. I like the idea of using redgard+kerdi on the walls, because kerdi is too expensive to throw on the walls IMO, but any particular reason you do not put it in front of the wall?
Typically I use a liquid waterproofer on the walls outside as I do with this Redguard, however the curry that I used was specifically for a pan liner has a curbless shower is easier to build with a cloth membrane like Kerdi than it would be with a rubber membrane, therefore the Kerdi was a pan liner, then Redguard went on top
I do not see any drop concrete shower remodeling
At least you still have your eyebrows!
What’s the cost of having a shower like this made on concrete?
There are way too many factors involved, each one being individual...it can run from 2g to 10g.. there is no way to answer
How come you never show the details being done? You just tell what you're gonna do and then show it after it's done. And time to invest in a decent camera
Low level. Standards set at low level to protect most applications. You said high level.
Mr Bob, is there something wrong with my phone or was your camera, it looks like PlayStation, I’m saying that just like a comment, nothing wrong with the content of the video. Nice by the way !!!👍🏻
Yeah, those floor tiles were tripping me out.
It's NOT your phone, I had issues with the resolution that I couldn't resolve...
Can't get 'em all perfect :-(
What did you do to tie the cut our portion back to the slab?
Not sure I understand
@@StarrTile since you made it a recess pan how did you support the portion of the slab that is now cut and shifted down.
@@samuelspornhauer1019 it was in the video...I didn't cut ALL the concrete out, just hammered out enough to get a slope, buttered out rapid set on it and installed kerdi membrane.
I was shocked to see you use Schluter lol. on the bench do you use metal trim around the outside or vut a 45 or just overlap them?
Schluter trim was used on left & right sides and in the niche, but my customer wanted bullnose on bench & kneewall.
@@StarrTile ahh I have to use metal trim around a bench too. I am going to suggest those 90 attachments. Makes life easier
Please invest in a quality smart phone. Try oneplus.com also what color grout did you use?
For some reason I could not trust this guy after the gotee was removed
this cat is chatty
yeah your usual video quality is not the same as this one.....pretty rough
Yeah sorry...hit a snafoo
Why do you use those cheap drains in all these nice showers you do? I'm baffled at the extent you go to, just to put the ugliest cheap drains in.
You can use a lawnmower to cut your grass, or you can use a pair of scissors. Both methods will yield the same results, one just requires a lot more work. I know people can be set in their ways, but why not use the product like it was intended? If you're going to spend the money on Kerdi, install it in the manner it was designed to be used. Mud the pan, kerdi the entire shower and bench, install tile. It's done that way thousands of times every month by thousands of different installers. Even though you ended up with a waterproof box to install your tile, a lot of unnecessary time and labor was invested to achieve that goal. Time is money in the tile business. Quality prep work is paramount, but it can be achieved using modern products and methods that don't take multiple days to install.
I am paid very well by my customers and time is allocated to each job I do, getting out earlier will not yield me any more money, my next job is already pre-planned and I can't just pop in a day or two early... my focus has never been to get it done quick, my focus is to get it done good.
Insofar as the product goes it is never been reliable in my opinion, there are too many errors that can occur and there have been tests done where there has been some leakage the way they engineered it to overlap. It did however serve a purpose on this particular job and was modified to suit my need.. I find absolutely no advantage to installing it correctly and having a failure. Of course if I were being paid by the manufacturer to make a video on how to install it then there would be that, but I wasn't👌
Gezund heit!
Wouldn't/Couldn't you use an edge drain?.
Also?? Why the Fuck would anyone Down-thumb this??.
Waste of time, could have used the bonded flange and saved 3 days
Link?
schulter kerdi
I'm sorry but no way.. any real professional contractor will be asking for donations 🤑
Do you have any favorite people you watch on RUclips? If you do there is a good chance they are getting paid for all of those little ads that you see... not only is RUclips paying them but they also have online stores where they sell product, they usually have a patreon account, PayPal, and many others to monetize what they put out there. They are making thousands a month, don't fool yourself that they are putting free content out because they are trying to help you, they're trying to help their bank account. I make zip from my videos, so yeah, if ppl donate to me because I provide info and save them money then what exactly is wrong with that ? Tell me one RUclipsr that you follow and I will tell you what he makes on a monthly basis👍
this is so wrong
Explained by saying "so wrong"...gotcha 🤣
Just FYI, I did subscribe but unfortunately you're one of a few who ask for money. I have when people ask for money so I un-subscribed.
Every RUclipsr out there makes money from Google for the ads you watch, they also have merch, they also have sponsors, being on RUclips is nothing but a money-making machine....
I have well over 600 videos over the course of 14 years on RUclips and I don't make a dime from RUclips or merch or anything else , the information that I provide is 100% free to whoever watches it so then why would not I asked for a few dollars for that ???
And honestly I could really care less if I have subscribers or not, especially with someone like yourself with that attitude you have, don't let the door hit your ass on the way out
@StarrTile Attitude? I simply stated why I unsubscribed, you sound like a prosperity preacher, "giving to us what we need for free" however asking for money complaining about merch, ads, revenue etc. Look man here's what I'm saying, if you hope to make money then let it happen, if your doing videos out of the goodness of your heart don't expect money. If you want revenue then make it relevant, make it better. IMO and I've seen a lot of videos, and you have put out some good info but you have also put out some not so good info. Just like every other person out there. Your content value is low hence why you're not monetized. I don't ever see other pro installers asking for money, it's usually the junior guys. If you're info is valuable and relevant then people will subscribe. If you want to sell merchandise then make it and sell it. If you were really good you would team up and work together. Good luck man, that sound you heard was the door hitting my a** on the way out.