Started watching you guys a decade ago... helped me transition to surfing along the wave rather than towards the beach. You are the one positive thing to have come from this pandemic... absolutely class advice!
These videos are great. I think about the dynamics of surfing a lot, and I find the variety of ideas that you and your team present challenging. There's an explanation for everything we feel when we surf and as surfers we all try to narrow down why things happen the way they do so that we can improve. I'd like to offer my own opinion on an interaction you mention for I'm not convinced that a low pressure region at the tail of the board is "sucking" water in an upward direction. You say that during trimming, with more rocker we should imagine that there is more weight at the back of the board. This is accurate and is a useful mental tool for surfing, although I think the cause is not a result of the board and water exchanging momentum at the tail, but a difference in the centre of lift. With more rocker, the centre of lift is further forward. To then counter this force so that the net torque of the surfer and board is zero, the surfer must shift their weight further forward than usual, as if "there is a weight on the back of the board". I'd love to hear what you think about this different perspective. Thanks for the great content and food for thought.
Hi Phill, thanks for writing and showing an interest. There’s nothing more we love than discussing the potential sciences especially considering there is so little real evidence so instead we have to deduce as a community! Its an interesting idea, I’m going to speak with our team and get some feedback on it. Thanks again, Will
Tnx for boosting a personal talk with yr shaper. I dig the videos so much. Are you gonna do a video about channels (mid/tail) and what they do rockerwise, someday?
That videos are amazing! May I ask what type of Video editing program you use for your graphics, drawings, ... I am a teacher and looking for a tool to create exactly that kind of videos, but haven't found anything convenient yet...
Started watching you guys a decade ago... helped me transition to surfing along the wave rather than towards the beach. You are the one positive thing to have come from this pandemic... absolutely class advice!
Glad you’re enjoying it Mathew!
These are the EXACT videos I have been looking for! TY!!
Perfectly explained. I never really understood how surfboards work. This series of videos cleared it up for me
Happy to help!
Every time I hear a northern English accent talk about surfing, I am surprised that people actually surf up there
Awesome explanation. Thank you!
Thanks for coming back Frewuill!
These videos are great. I think about the dynamics of surfing a lot, and I find the variety of ideas that you and your team present challenging. There's an explanation for everything we feel when we surf and as surfers we all try to narrow down why things happen the way they do so that we can improve. I'd like to offer my own opinion on an interaction you mention for I'm not convinced that a low pressure region at the tail of the board is "sucking" water in an upward direction. You say that during trimming, with more rocker we should imagine that there is more weight at the back of the board. This is accurate and is a useful mental tool for surfing, although I think the cause is not a result of the board and water exchanging momentum at the tail, but a difference in the centre of lift. With more rocker, the centre of lift is further forward. To then counter this force so that the net torque of the surfer and board is zero, the surfer must shift their weight further forward than usual, as if "there is a weight on the back of the board". I'd love to hear what you think about this different perspective. Thanks for the great content and food for thought.
Hi Phill, thanks for writing and showing an interest. There’s nothing more we love than discussing the potential sciences especially considering there is so little real evidence so instead we have to deduce as a community! Its an interesting idea, I’m going to speak with our team and get some feedback on it. Thanks again, Will
Tnx for boosting a personal talk with yr shaper. I dig the videos so much. Are you gonna do a video about channels (mid/tail) and what they do rockerwise, someday?
Hi Tony, I’m glad you’re enjoying the videos. This Friday’s episode is about the bottom contours!
Just amazing!!! thank you so much :)
Glad you enjoyed it Andres!
changed my life thank u so much
Keep up the great videos!!
This was a sick video
Thank you Pierre!
That videos are amazing! May I ask what type of Video editing program you use for your graphics, drawings, ... I am a teacher and looking for a tool to create exactly that kind of videos, but haven't found anything convenient yet...
Hi Daniel, I use a mix of Photoshop to make the components, then After Effects to animate them.
Thanks for sharing
bigger boards require rocker or they don't turn. a small board under six feet require very little rocker.
First one to watch it ))
Last one to get laid.
Sorry for you. I'm sure you're going to find that special someone one day 🤙
@@vladzhibak678 thanks 🤗