Car Engine Overheating - Causes and Symptoms of Over Heating Car Engine
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
- www.TrustMyMech...
"Why is my car engine over heating? What causes an engine to overheat"
I hear this question all the time on my websites and especially during the hotter summer months. I made this short video to help you determine what might be the cause of your overheating problem and what you can rule out as not causing the issue before you go to your mechanic. This can save you some time, frustration and money by doing so.
"My engine overheats at freeway speeds"
When you are on the freeway you have lots of airflow across the radiator which helps remove the heat that the engine antifreeze/coolant has accumulated from the cooling system. Since the engine is running at a much higher RPM than that at idle, the water pump is spinning around and pumping coolant at a much higher rate as well.
If there is a restriction in the radiator, the coolant will not be allowed to circulate fast enough inside the engine. The coolant will basically be roadblocked inside the radiator due to the restriction. A radiator usually gets build up of rust, minerals and calcium type deposits at the BOTTOM of the radiator. This restriction really can not be removed by "flushing" with a garden hose. In most cases this restriction will require a new radiator.
Think of this type of engine overheating problem like this. You are trying to run a 10 mile marathon, but you have to do it with your mouth taped shut. You can walk with your mouth shut but running at full steam for a long distance requires more air than your nose can provide. A restricted radiator is the biggest culprit in an engine overheating complaint on the freeway or at higher speeds. Although, if the radiator is low on coolant....that can also be the problem, so check coolant level first.
"I am constantly having to add coolant to my radiator, do I have a leak?"
Anytime I hear of a coolant leak or engine overheating complaint I ALWAYS start my diagnosis with a cooling system pressure test.
"My auto mechanic said I have a head gasket leak in my car"
I get tons, literally tons of emails each week with this question. I would say that most of them are NOT having a headgasket problem but rather a lazy auto mechanic problem who failed to do a proper cooling system pressure test.
Here are a few common symptoms I would expect to see if you had a blown headgasket or any other internal coolant leak.
1. Constantly having to add coolant to the radiator, with no visible external leaks found
2. White steam/smoke coming out the tailpipe, and worse or more smoke at freeway speed
3. Failing a cooling system pressure test, meaning the air pressure gauge drops but there are no external leaks to be seen.
4. An engine miss fire, due to coolant leaking inside the cylinders and fouling out the spark plugs. Lack of overall engine power and performance.
5. Usually a yellow check engine light will be on the dash, since the computer sees the engine miss fire and stores that code inside the computer memory.
6. Lack of engine compression. A manual compression test should be done on each cylinder to prove that there is a compression problem with 1 or more cylinder. This is different from the PRESSURE test which I mentioned above.
7. White powdery residue on the inside tip of the spark plug. When coolant enters the cylinder on the inside of the engine (which It should not be doing) the engine is going to try and burn that coolant, which it will have a very hard time doing. This coolant is what causes the engine to miss fire and produce the steam white smoke out the tailpipe. A white powdery residue will some times form on the internal engine tip of the spark plug.
If you have any of those symptoms AND you have rule out all other possible issues then you might want to consider trying this very simple and effective head gasket sealer you can do yourself. I have had great success with it over the years. It's a sealer additive made by K&W, called Engine Block Sealer, but don't use it as the can direction say. I think my way of using it works much better and its much easier.
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Do NOT use a radiator stop leak additive! check out my sites for more free information
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Excellent vid, one thing that's often overlooked is a faulty coolant reservoir CAP. If that leaks even a little bit, could lead to all sorts of problems......
That will show up with the pressure test.
@@garybaris139how? The cap won’t be on at all
Thank you. Remember that "flushing" really doesn't do much and that the junk and mineral build up happens at the bottom of the radiator which can not be easily flushed out. A new radiator is usually the cure. Make sure there are no coolant leaks, no air in system, the engine IS actually running hot and not a gauge issue and the radiator is not restricted at the bottom. Upper and lower rad hoses should be able the same temp when running hot.If you have over 100K miles a restriction is possible
Yes the waterpump could be your leak source. They tend to leak more when the engine is running than when engine is off...and leak more at higher RPM like on the freeway when the engine/RPM/water pump is spinning faster.
They do make some supposed water pump leak additives but I have never seen them actually work :( replacement is the only real option. You have not mentioned any of the common head gasket problems so I would say no at this time. Let it overheat real good just once...then yes!
The mechanic had the thermostat removed at the installation of a replacement/new engine to allow free flow of water or coolant into the engine. I got another radiator but keep loosing water after every 20km or less (in heavy traffic situation).
2. Is it right to remove thermostats from the car because the car is now being used in the tropics where the atmospheric temperature is high like Africa ,to prevent overheating?
Many thanks my stress level has gone down! I'm a 67 year old women and don't know anything about cars but I understood everything you said! I'm going to check the things I can and if I can fix it by myself will, only then will I take it to a mechanic and will feel more confident that I won't get ripped off!
YOU ARE ALWAYS RIGHT #TrustMymechanic.i believe you and TRUST YOU!! I took my radiator for thorough check and cleaning.i thought my Daihatsu Feroza is dead but believe me NO MORE OVERHEATING,i felt the radiator cap it was cold as if in a refrigerator,not like before,it was so hot you wont attempt to feel it! Hey man,welcome to Kenya i give you a ride to Masai mara national park!
Awesome, I hope to take you up on your offer one day :)
What was the problem
@@justincooper3211 over heating
You are more than welcome, thank you so much for the kind words. Yes, I have more videos in my youtube channel for you to watch. Have a great week.
learned alot from only watching a couple of your videos, thank you.
Just make sure there are no kinks or restrictions in the radiator hoses that would reduce coolant flow. As a rule of thumb, I always replace the thermostat when replacing the radiator or where there was an overheating problem.
greetings from South Africa, nice video.
Imre Csoka /Ay ni yo estudié en cuenta tu Thousand One ventro echarleI need troubleshooting heating up in the 2001 Chevrolet
yes that is a good idea to remove the air, and air pockets will reduce the coolant circulation and cause the overheating. Sometimes you have to drive around a bit and let the thermostat operate, run the heater, then come back and let it cool down and top off with coolant. You should not be able to easily squeeze together the upper rad hose with your hand when the engine is warm, or there is air inside or a coolant leak.
This guys family has been in the auto repair business for over 63 years so he's an expert. This video helped me solve my over heating problem in 10 minutes. He was a technical consultant on a car maintenance software program www.lonewolf-software.com/automotivewolf.htm you can use on your computer to monitor and manage your vehicle maintenance schedules. All the maintenance schedule requirements in the program are from this guy (Austin Davis). I've been using the software for over 8 years and both my vehicles are always running great and it has saved my a lot of money in repairs.
I use the Automotive Wolf software too. It's great :)
Great video.. im not a mechanic but you taught me a lot especially safety issues concerning checking out these car parts.Thank you for making it where anyone can understand.
You do not need to go to 20 pounds for a psi test. Maximum you will need is 15 or 16.
Magna Norris fuck no Max is 13 going over that you’re going to mess a o ring up or seal
@@Jorgetherealtor Fuck Jorge you are wrong This time,my Acura TL has a 16psi cap.
Normally radiator caps are rated at close to atmospheric pressure of 1 bar (14.5 psi) +/- 10%.
Sorry for my delay, have been out of town on a roadtrip vacation with family. If you are adding coolant you DO have a leak somewhere in the system. I would get a cooling system pressure test first to help locate any possible internal or external coolant leaks.
2. Check the electric radiator cooling fan operation (should cycle on and off)
3. Check for a restriction at the bottom of the radiator, both radiator hoses should be about the same temp when engine is warm.
4. Check thermostat
I have a 1999 Buick Park Ave. I need to know if it's the engine because it had overheated in they drove on it a little bit longer and I don't know what happen now there is a loud noise and someone said that it sounds like it's the engine I don't have anything that leaks I keep up on everything with The only thing I didn't do was add oil which I needed to do that day do I need to get a new engine or is there a fix I can do really need some help here
More than welcome. If you think you have a coolant leak then you need a Cooling System Pressure Tester. A compression tester is used on the engine to determine if there is internal wear/damage.
failed to mention about water pump for the belt
The bent fins are pretty normal, road debris and bugs etc. can easily damage the thin aluminum. The real issue is inside the radiator at the bottom, where mineral deposits and rust build up and restrict the flow of coolant. BUT, usually a radiator restriction problem shows up at highway speeds rather than slow speed or sitting in traffic. Keep us posted as to what happens.
TrustMyMechanic.com I've been told I have a blown head gasket or water pump I have a 2010 Town and country I no from the person I got it from it does need a new radiator. What should I believe also is the water pump for a 2010 Town and Country the same as it would be for a Dodge?
I changed my radiator,thermostat, and water pump..stIll overheats 'm lost on my 2000 Chevy venture 3.8
Did you do a cooling system pressure test? Check radiator cooling fan? When does it over heat, at idle or at freeway speed? Is there an air pocket in the system that needs to be bled out? You got homework :)
bad catalytic converter ?
Was it over heating and did it stop
blown head gasket .....
NOBOX7 my 2003 chevrolet venture is smoking from under the hood in the back on the passenger side and my service engine light is flashing off and on
very informative video. i have a car that is overheating in idling and at stop lights. i just noticed the overheating when i stopped the car this morning from gym. i saw the coolant reservoir was empty and poured some and drove 8 miles for lunch. it over heated and touched the red zone. so i immediately stopped by pulling over. i waited for 10 minutes and the engine cooled a bit , so i started and drove the needle was much lower than before start. no leaks whatsoever. refilled more coolant
well i have rust in my cooling would that cause my car to overheat
Thanks for the info. Very informative. I'm having trouble with my 2004 Durango. Replaced water pump and fan clutch. Coolant flushed out too and still running hotter than should be.
hi, every time i drive for only 30 minutes my radiator is always empty with coolant though i didn't see any leak on it. need your help. thanks
You need to get a cooling system pressure test to help you locate the source of the leak.
Yes, first things first. Get a cooling system pressure test to determine if you have an internal or external coolant leak. Are you sure it is actually overheating and not a gauge problem? Can you open the hood and listen for boiling over? When engine is overheating make sure radiator fans are ON, and squeeze the upper radiator hose (use a rag will be very hot) and make sure you are not able to squeeze it together, should have pressure on it.
If you are DRIVING at freeway speeds or basically any speed other than sitting still at idle then I would check your radiator for a restriction at the bottom, check to make sure you are full of coolant in the radiator and there are no leaks. Overheating while sitting at idle or very slow speeds usually is a coolant fan issue, but while driving or at fast speeds is usually a radiator or lack of coolant circulation issue.
Great, keep us posted as to what you find out. Yes, white smoke/steam under the hood would indicate an external coolant leak spraying coolant on the hot engine.
Ant inputs will be greatly appreciated. Thank you again!
Yea those I am not having any of those symptoms. No smoke or milky oil but there is air getting into the system somehow. Thank you once again for your help!
sir i can say for sure that u r helping to much and u r truly honest with ur profession
What an amazing person! Thanks for your work in making others' lives better.
Have you checked to make sure the electric cooling fans are coming on and off? Check coolant level, check for leaks if low. Check radiator for a restriction if the overheating seems to happen after long freeway driving at higher speeds then coming to a stop.
Very good explanation. Those who thumbed down have probably never trouble-shot a vehicle problem....
It could be, but since you saw smoke I would assume you probably have a coolant leak spraying water on the engine, so get a cooling system pressure test first to rule out an external or internal coolant leak. Then check the inside of the radiator for a restriction or heavy rust build up. If you see rust/mineral deposits inside then the bottom of the radiator will be heavily restricted and could be your overheating issue.
It could be a restriction in the radiator. But first, I would check this.
1. Open radiator, if low on coolant get a cooling system pressure test to find leak.
2. Check for an air pocket that might be trapped in the coolant, bled out any air that might be in the system. This air can get trapped after doing a coolant type repair.
3. Make sure there are no coolant or air flow restrictions. Air flow across the radiator and coolant flow going through the radiator. Upper/ lower rad hoses same temp
You are such a nice man!!!!! I wish YOU could be MY mechanic!!!!!! thank you so very much for the video...Hoping you have made more videos like this because you are soooo helpful!!!!
Get a cooling system pressure test first, rule out any external or internal leaks, then check the radiator for a restriction at the bottom. Both upper and lower radiator hoses should be about the same temperature when the engine is hot. If not, there is low coolant or air pockets in the system or a coolant restriction somewhere. The HEATER should be blowing hot air when engine is hot, if not, low coolant level or lack of coolant circulation in the engine is happening.
It is normal for the water level in the plastic "over flow" reservoir to rise and fall as the engine reaches normal operating temperature. You need to keep an eye on the radiator coolant level, if that falls then you probably have a coolant leak somewhere and a cooling system pressure test can help you locate the leak. If the coolant level inside the radiator stays full, you should be ok as long as there is not an overheating issue.
Sounds like there could be a restriction in the radiator, which will require a new one not "flushing". Lack of coolant circulation is probably the issue and with the lower hose cold, it only tells me there is rust/mineral deposits at the bottom of the radiator preventing that coolant to flow.
Thanks this helped a lot I was stumped by my car overheating with recurring antifreeze refills today, I'm so mad have an old 99 Toyota Camry and it just keeps overheating when I run on the freeway. I need to pressure test it and check for any blockage and leaks for sure.
Usually means there is not enough air flow across the radiator, and a cooling fan problem is probably the issue. Always start with a cooling system pressure test to see if you have an internal or external coolant leak, check upper and lower radiator hoses when engine is at normal operating temp to see if they are the same temp (if not, a radiator restriction is likely) and make sure there are no air pockets in cooling system.
so you already replaced the radiator? Check the coolant level inside the radiator, if low you have a leak somewhere and need to get a pressure test to help you find it. Check upper and lower radiator hoses when engine is warm, they should be able the same temperature. if not, you have a restriction somewhere or there are air pockets in the system that need to be bled out. Getting air in the system after a rad replacement is pretty common. Engine warm, upper rad hose should be hard to squeeze
Great, keep me posted as to what they find out.
I would get a cooling system pressure test and rule out either an internal (headgasket) leak or an external leak you are missing and that leak is not allowing the system to hold pressure, also test the radiator cap. If no leaks, I would check to make sure the engine is actually running hot and not a gauge problem. I would use a thermal thermometer on the engine to verify temperature. Also make sure there are no air pockets in the system.
The spring type clamps are superior to any screw/worm clamp. During temperature and seasonal changes the worm clamps can and will leak if not tightened and retightened. The springs clamps never will be loose or leak due to temperature changed as the spring will always tighten.
Yes, the water inside the radiator will go up and down slightly, and you should see or might see rise in the overflow bottle on the side. You should not be able to see the "cores" inside the radiator though, those should stay covered with coolant. Just make sure the radiator is full to the top with coolant when the engine is off, and there are no coolant leaks.
Get a cooling system pressure test first to see if there is a leak somewhere. Then check cooling fan motors and switches, then check radiator for a restriction. If low on coolant fans will not be able to do their job because the sensor can not read the temperature of the coolant to turn on the fans.
Well, yes that could be a sign of internal engine coolant leak, like a headgasket and it could be possible. I would also expect to see constant coolant loss, white smoke out tailpipe, coolant in engine oil sometimes, an engine miss and running bad because coolant is getting on spark plugs. I have a video in my channel talking about a headgasket sealer you might want to watch it. A pressure test should reveal the leak though and will not hold pressure with HG leak.A rad restriction is still high
First, check the coolant level in the radiator and top off as needed. Second, Do you have an electric cooling fan up near the radiator? Most cars have at least one electric cooling fan for the radiator and that fan should cycle on and off at idle or slow speeds as the engine heats up. Double check that fan operation at idle. If you have 2 fans, one is for the A/C compressor and should come on when the A/C compressor clutch kicks on.
Thank you I even before finishing your Video you have helped solve my Problem your methodical Diagnostic analysis system is class A
USUALLY when that happens it is because the engine is running hotter than it should and boiling over inside the radiator to the overflow bottle, which is why it is there. But, the running hot issue has to be addressed. Could be due to a coolant leak (get a cooling system pressure test) or it could be due to a restriction in the bottom of the radiator and a new radiator is the answer. Rule out a leak, check electric radiator cooling fans, check radiator for restriction.
Is it low on coolant? If so and you can not see the leak, get a cooling system pressure test to find the leak. If the radiator is full, and there are no leaks.
Check the electric radiator cooling fan and make sure it is coming on at idle when the engine is warm.
Then check for a restriction in the radiator. Both upper and lower radiator hoses should be able the same temperature.
Thanks,I had my 2008 ford focus.one owner,me great on gas great car.im just now starting to put work into it thanks for the upload
If you can see corrosion or mineral or rust build up at the top of the radiator it will be MUCH worse at the bottom of the radiator, so yes your overheating problems could be due to a restriction in the radiator and its time for a new one.
I always replace the thermostat when I replace the radiator, just as general maintenance. The overflow bottle will rise and fall as the engine and thermostat thermostat opens and closes off the coolant flow.
If your radiator is leaking you will need to replace it, have not seen a sealer or additive that works on the newer plastic radiator. Fans might not be coming on because they are getting a signal from the coolant temp sensor and if there no coolant the sensor might not work.
I just bleed it with the engine off technique ,, and no more overheat...but I am gonna pressure test it..my mechanic done that before...and about the o2 censors I did notice a 2 mpg drop..thank you for sharing your input
Thankyou this has helped me a lot, I have a 2002 Chrysler sebring convertible Lx 2.4L , My temperature gauge jumps up sometimes when I accelerate too hard, I came home parked in the driveway , I noticed I have a Leak in the front, I think its oil, I need to buy a compression test to see where its coming from. I'l be back on here to comment when I find out more.
I still suspect a problem with the electric cooling fans or you have a radiator that is restricted with gunk at the bottom not allowing coolant to flow fast enough throughout the engine. Double check that the electric fans are coming on then feel the upper and lower radiator hoses (caution they will be hot, or should be hot) they should be about the same temperature when the engine is at normal temp. If not, you have a radiator restriction or an air pocket in the cooling system.
usually it is a bad cooling fan motor, but can also be a cooling fan sensor problem. The sensor measures coolant temp then sends the signal to the fan motor to come on of turn off.
You want to get a cooling system PRESSURE Test to help locate a leak, if you have one. A compression test will help you determine if there is internal wear inside the cylinders, which I dont think is your issue. You should be able to get an aftermarket radiator for about $150-200 or you might see if you have a radiator shop in your area that can "boil out" yours, sometimes its better to get a new one than try and mess with your old one though.
These vehicles are difficult to bleed air from the system. Check for any other coolant leaks, check radiator electric fan motor, check temp of lower and upper rad hoses to see if they are the same and both have pressure on them. Turn on the heater inside the car to help remove air pockets from the system, then top off radiator with coolant. Heater should be HOT, if not you got air in system still. If you are still stumped try a new thermostat, its a quick and cheap guess to rule things out.
So good to watch .... all his points are so relevant! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge ....
Usually when that happens its due to a restriction in the radiator or some other coolant restriction like a stuck thermostat, or from lack of airflow across the radiator. Make sure the radiator is full of coolant, check upper and lower rad hoses when engine is warm (they should be close to same temperature) and that there is plenty of airflow across the radiator...ie. cooling fans working, or manual fan is turning fast enough.
Lots of good info about cooling systems in this video. Best I've seen, and I've been watching several this morning because my wife called me and said her car was overheating this morning... :( Hopefully I can get it sorted out when I get home.
Thanks for sharing!
Its possible that you have a gauge problem, but its VERY rare. You did the pressure test and there are no leak? You checked the radiator for a restriction and there is none, you checked for air in the cooling system that needs to be bled out, you checked the electric cooling fan on the radiator and it is working? If all those come out ok, then have a mechanic check the temperature sending unit, that tells the dashgauge how how the engine is. its cheap part, if you want to just guess and replace
Thanks man this really helped me out I have a 2003 Dodge ram 1500 that does run hot on the highway and at idle speeds replaced fan clutch and radiator which stopped problem and it gets really hot out here in Killeen TX too
Anytime you have to continually add coolant to the system you should get a "cooling system pressure test" to help you locate where the leak is coming from, unless its obvious with your naked eye.
make sure the radiator is full of coolant and there are no air pockets in the system that need to be bled out. With the engine at normal temp, you really should not be able to squeeze together the top radiator hose with your hands, if you can there is a leak somewhere or air in the system. Also upper and lower radiator hoses should be about the same temp, or the radiator is probably restricted at the bottom and needs to be replaced.
Get a cooling system pressure test to rule out the possibility of a small coolant leak, but this could be due to a radiator that is slightly restricted at the bottom and allowing just enough coolant to flow as to break even on the temp gauge. What you are seeing COULD be normal, I would have to see it personally. I would feel the upper and lower radiator hoses after your long trip and see if they are about the same temp, they should be close. If upper is hotter than lower, radiator restriction
You're talking to ppl who prolly don't change fluids for 10 years and you tell them thermostats rarely stick😆😆
I would first check to see if you have an exhaust leak under the hood at the exhaust manifold or flange gasket connection at the manifold to the exhaust pipe or under the vehicle in the exhaust pipe/muffler/converter that is leaking fumes inside the vehicle. Also check to see if you have an oil leak, which can smell like exhaust inside the vehicle.
I would also use the RECIRCULATION setting for the a/c and not use the fresh air setting to see if that helps.
I just went through this problem with my 05 navigator with the 5.4 engine, driving on the freeway, noticed that the temp gauges went into the red line. Got off the next exit, found a place to park an pop the hood to see what going on. Had to sit there for fifteen minutes to cool down. Looked at the reservoir and it was sitting the low mark, but it still had coolent. After cooling off, I drove a little slower, went to auto part retailers and purchased some 50/50 coolent and topped it off. Drove it home, next day, drove awhile,, and the gauges indicated it was starting to over heat. Next day I got radiator pressure tester and the fitting to test the reservoir bottle and cap. The tool and adapter didn't seal, had to use some pipe sealant tape to get it to pressurize. Was able to pressurize, but was leak at the threads of the adapter. Same with the adapter for testing the cap. I had purchased a new thermostat when I got the testing tool, but I had not installed it yet. I returned the testing tools and purchased a new pressure cap after noticing that the rubber gasket in the cap was worn down. Put the new cap on then took a test drive and monitored my scan tool for the coolant temperature. After the engine got to temp and stable, I continued drive at freeway speeds for fifteen minutes. The coolent temp stayed steady plus or minus the thermostat rating, problem solved.
So the overheating was cause by a bad radiator cap?
Great video. You explain everything throughly and easy to understand.
Thanks I look forward to it. It seems like the real deal to me. If you test it and think its a good thing, it will be great to share with your other subscribers and viewers. Peace.
Great video. My Trams am is overheating when I'm stop at a Red light. I will check the fans. When I start moving and picking up speed the needle goes back to normal. Only when I'm stop at a red light the needle goes all the way up
Wow thank you for this great explanation of the parts been looking for a detailed simplified explanation keep the videos coming.
Those plastic reservoirs DO leak, so make sure there is not a crack on the bottom of the back you can not see. if you are sure the bottle is not leaking, then I would get a cooling system pressure test to help you determine where the leak is coming from.
This is a simple and cheap test and just about any mechanic can do it while you wait. the leak could be from anything, radiator, water pump, heater core, radiator or heater hoses etc.
Yes it could be a problem with the fan motor or the sensor to the motor. Did the A/C compressor clutch click on when you turned on the A/C? The part that the fan belt is attached to, that is the clutch and will make a click noise and spin the compressor when you turn on the A/C. IF the compressor is out of Freon, it will not come on, and neither will the fan. let the car idle until it warms up, does the fan come on and off, it should. Take a broom stick and give it a push and a tap.
Are you sure there are no air pockets in the coolant that need to be bled out? Double check the coolant level inside the radiator to make sure it is completely full. Other things that can cause this. Anything restricting air flow across the radiator, ignition timing that is set to far advanced, even low engine oil could be a factor. I would also make double sure the new radiator is the same width as the old one. same number of "rows" and now narrower or smaller than old one.
Yes it could be a problem with the fan motor or the sensor to the motor. Did the A/C compressor clutch click on when you turned on the A/C? The part that the fan belt is attached to, that is the clutch and will make a click noise and spin the compressor when you turn on the A/C. IF the compressor is out of Freon, it will not come on, and neither will the fan. let the car idle until it warms up, does the fan come on and off, it should. Take a broom stick and give it a push and a tap.
If you can't see where the leak is coming from with your naked eye, then get a "cooling system pressure test" (which is fast and cheap) to locate the leak. If you don't have any white smoke coming from the exhaust pipe I would not worry to much about the white chalk stuff, but after I repaired the leak I might flush out the cooling system and add new coolant.
This video is very good I learnt more and im gonna do level 2 motor vehicle course it will help me in College keep up the good work
Hi there. That is a great question.....but, sorry to say I have no experience using that coolant, so I can not comment either way. I'll put that on my "video to do list".
In 17 years I've only had 1 bypass hose which ruptured, other than that I still have all the original hoses from 275,000 miles ago. They have outlasted 3 radiators, a thermostat, and a water control valve, I'm hanging on until they start bulging or rupture. They cost to much to be replacing as preventive maintenance.
I probably would have changed all the hoses 3-4 times and spent around 300-400 bux along the way.
Those vehicle are notorious for small headgasket seeps, but if the engine is not overheating and you are not having to continually add coolant I would not worry to much about it. I do have a really good headgasket sealer additive I show in my youtube channel....."best headgaket sealer" you might want to try it and see if it helps.
Just about any mechanic will have a cooling system pressure tester (even many oil change places) and you can usually rent one from your local auto parts store if you want to try and do it yourself.
You might have 2 electric cooling fans at the radiator, so make sure that the one closest to the radiator is coming on when the engine warms up. The other fan is for the A/C system and should come on when the A/C compressor comes on.
Yes, if there is ANY coolant leak it will cause the engine to overheat. The coolant will leak out from the hose but the steam caused by overheating will boil in the reservoir. Get the leak repaired.
First thing that comes to mind is an electric radiator cooling fan problem, do you have one on this vehicle? Second thing that comes to mind is just low coolant level due to a leak somewhere, third thing that comes to mind is lack of air flow across the radiator...is anything in front for the radiator blocking air flow? Last thing is a restriction at the bottom of the radiator. Giving it some gas at idle speeds up the waterpump and fan so waterpump is working fine.
I would first get a mechanic to do a cooling system pressure test to determine if there is a leak, either external like a radiator hose or internal like a headgasket leak. Once you determine there are NO leaks, then I would check the electric cooling fan up at the radiator and make sure it is coming on when the engine heats up. Second, I would check for a radiator restriction that is not allowing cooling to flow properly, "flushing" does nothing, replacement of the radiator is the cure.
thank you! Really helpful advice for a total novice when it comes to things under the hood of my car! I appreciate your Insight and honesty!
Great video, Thanks! Saludos from San Antonio
Gracias Amgio, I love San Antonio!
If radiator is totally full, thermostat is working, upper and lower radiator hoses are NOT even close to being same temp and cold air out ducts I can only assume you have a restriction somewhere most likely the radiator itself or you have a large air pocket in the cooling system that needs to be bled out (would only be there if you replaced a cooling system part recently) My gut says a 9 year old radiator is full of junk at the bottom and time to replace (not flush) it.
If symptoms occur, don't hesitate to go to your nearest car repair shop to avoid accident. Thanks for the tips. Good job!
Thank you!
excellent video, I would have to say though always check the lower radiator hose condition as well as when you check the top, in addition if your having overheating issues at highway speeds and you know its been a long time since you've flushed the system running on dirty coolant, it would be a good idea to check the water pump as well, I had the waterpumps internal propeller on my 98 f150 dissolve due to running on old coolant BTW headgasket test kits can be rented from AutoZone fairly cheap
Its possible, but if the temp sending unit was faulty I would expect to see it overheating at all speeds. Check to make sure you have a radiator full of coolant and there are no air pockets in the system that need to be bled out. Also make sure there is plenty of air flow across the radiator and nothing in front of the radiator that is blocking air flow.
Also make sure the upper and lower radiator hoses are both same temp when engine is hot. If not, low on coolant,a leak, or air in the system.
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My car went hot when I was in traffic light..
When I drove it it went down ..
But it happen few times but then it never happen ...what do you think what happen..
Plz answer
Sounds like lack of coolant flowing inside the engine. Could be that the water pump is wrong and the impeller is backwards from the original (rare but seen it) or it could be that the thermostat is stuck (I would just replace it anyway as a cheap guess). I would also make sure this is not a gauge problem and the engine is really overheating.
remove the radiator cap and see if you can see any coolant circulating with the engine running, you should.
Well if the coolant goes down in the radiator every time you drive, then you have a leak somewhere that needs to be repaired. Any coolant leak in the system will not allow the system to hold pressure which it needs to regulate itself. Get a cooling system pressure test to help you find the leak. You have not mentioned any white smoke out the exhaust, engine miss or coolant in oil, which would indicate a blown headgasket. I have a video in my channel about a headgasket sealer which is helpful.
You need to get a cooling system pressure test to find the leak. Could be anything, a radiator or heater hose, water pump, radiator etc. etc. I would assume it is something like that above and not a headgasket or anything really really expensive.
Thank you for pointing out on all those causes for engine overheating. Our 2003 Chevy Cavalier (~111K) overheats only when AC is on and on stops. So most likely it is a faulty radiator fan. But the car has another problem w/knocking sound when it starts to move. The frequency depends on rpm, and it doesn't change if to switch gears on speed. No sound (knocking noise) on idling. The sound is heard in the area of engine, looks like more on the right side. Can those 2 problems be related? I replaced a radiator on another our car (2001 Saturn SL2), and it was not very difficult. But on Chevy I think maybe they are Connecting Rods which make that knocking sound, so I even don't know if to proceed with this car. My hope is that the noise is only in motion, I hope it is smth on suspension. Thank you again for this informative and detailed film. As a DIY mechanic I've learned a lot, like about time interval when hoses should be replaced, why and when it could be overheating on high speeds and when on idling. It will be my main channel on overheating.
Wonderful guidance. thank you so much. appreciate it sir. i detected myself that i have a water pump leak which is causing the overheating now. thank you so much
Thanks for your comment. Glad you found it helpful and solved the issue.
Great video thanks!! But I was waiting for you to touch on the fan clutch wearing out over time and not engaging the fan which effects the cooling!