kids who grew up on the LS think its the only engine out there..then they find out how much it costs to get it into a place designed for the Gen1. New oil pan, serpentine belt setup, throttle by wire gas pedal, etc...cheaper just to do a GenOne and swap all the 305 parts over. But hey, thanks to them, i'm cleaning up on all the old school engines they are throwing out :)
The OG will always be a desirable piece! Biggest bang for ones bucks! If for no other reason than the countless cross dressers that will always need a OG SBC components! Lol
Just an FYI to 400 sbc builders. 2 bolt mains are actually stronger then 4 bolt mains. The geometry of the design is not the same a 350 sbc or etc. I built 10 so far, and I tell you 2 bolts hold more load.
Lube it up and stick it in. I ran a 377 in the mid 70's I was just using the thick bearings. I twisted mine up. Off the line at 8 and shift at 8500. Stayed together.
I’m subscribed love SBC especially destroked 400’s we had 18 degree headed 377 in our dirt car loved that engine combo !! Excited to see this build finished man great video
This is a similar short block to what's in my Corvette. I've got the 327 crank for 352 cubic inches, but 400 block and 6.2" rods for me. No boost, so the rest of the build will be different.
@@joejones9944 I am trying to do it right. I have the 509 block so it was the higher nickel block two engine shops said it was the strongest stock block got lucky with that. Using custom skip white performance alum 62cc chamber heads lunati 510/520 lift cam 750 e85 carb performer air gap intake. KB flat top pistons and rods. So the engine shop said it shop put out 550 or so hp and 500 ft/lbs should be a nice combo. Thank you for the luck.
Back in the day I ran a destroked 400 but mines was a 377. And yes I also had to use the spacers had it in a pick up with 4:88 4000 stall daily driver ran low 11,s but with juice I could get thrown off the track LOL I really enjoyed that destroked 400
Please correct me if I'm mistaken, entirely possible since I haven't built a Gen 1 SBC since the 90s, but I thought the 377 was a stroked 350, not a destroked 400. I could have sworn it was a standard 4.000 bore 350 block with a 400 crank, with the 4.030 bore being a 383 and a 4.060 bore making a 388. While I was building a few engines back then, I admit that I didn't know all the possible combinations. If there was a destroked 400 that made 377 ci, I would seriously like to know what bore, stroke and rod combination gave that size. I have several blocks laying around, including 2 400 blocks that I stole cranks out of back in the day and I would love to build them and put them to use before I get too old to do the work myself. I have a 1987 Toyota PU with a worn-out 22R that is just crying to have one of my small blocks transplanted into it.
@@biohazard_613 will back in the day before large custom after market kits like eagle kits , you had to build it on your own értel piston made a bunch of weird stuff run olds rods in a small block or run straight 6 ford rods in a small block ,as far as the 377 goes mines was a400 crank in a 350 (4 inch bore ) block with king bearing spacers on the mains. But you could also put a 350 crank in a 400 (4.125 bore) had to cut the mains down too 400
@@sonofmontezuma3732 thanks for the response. Like I said, I have 2 400 blocks laying around. That Toyota is screaming for a V8 swap. Looks like it’s time for me to start researching the parts that I’ll need. It’s good to have actually found a use for those blocks.
Long ago we learned that bearing spacers can and do cause the bearings to retain a lot more heat and cause problems. Its a risky setup and pining them is not always a good solution either. Good luck and i hope it works out better now with the fresh machine work.
Nothings more slippery than straight STP oil treatment, works great as an assembly lube plus way cheaper than Lucas oil stabilizer. 👍 Some say several Name Brand assembly lubes is STP with different colored dyes… 🙄🤔🤷♂️😁
bill jenkins ran the 400 bock , but used the small journal 327 steel crank , requiring more tinkering with bearings and spacers . another thing to muse over is he always prefered to use a block that had done about 100,000 miles in a truck , reasoning that the block had moved around all it was going to . a " green " or new block will move around , and all your carefully set up clearances will change , hurting power .
I recieved my merch today, I can't believe how quickly it got here! Very nice shirts and the flip coin is a nice piece too! Much heavier than I expected it to be. Thank you.
Could use a little bit better Block preparation sanding block to clean all the surfaces check all the thread holes make sure the oil galleys are scrubbed and cleaned mains seem to be a little bit on a tight side need to double check bearings clearance our main caps over tighten ?
Those are rugged main caps I remember a long long time ago adding supports to my caps those are super beefy times have changed a lot for small blocks in general I can't find much affordable LS stuff so I'm going to the hemi im finding those everywhere complete vehicles for 1000.00 or less ! Miss my older builds though I used 30 over 400s with the 6 inch rod surfing through looking at the different builders on here and you all use a little here and there of what I did and I had some real fast cars that didn't need a turbo or nos my street car went 580s 590s in an 8th mile back 25 years ago. Only used aluminum rods with nitro methane pre ignition shock absorbers
i was going to build a square body have a shit ton of them but ended up getting a 79 short box 4x4 cheyenne full option truck with the 400 / 400 turbo Quadro traction with under 35,000 miles on it for free just needed a new fuel pump and carb cleaned out. i did drive it a little but now it sets in my collection of rigs. i have 10 acres of rigs to work with. next is a 79 rs z28 t top have most of the parts to build it even new interior got most of the parts from 2 other z28's then got a stroke 454 with the 02xx trans and a t-10 not sure witch to go with have everything i need to put it in all for free
Crack each end of the crank with a big hammer before touqork it will spon like a top if not you'll have drag like you just showed !! 50 yea of building 10,000 rpm small blocks
Turbo John is dope and simple SBC no LSX or LTX and you make the same power or even more and that's why I like him,,, yeah the block maybe Dart but its fasure not a LS which is Great tired of seeing those sometimes👀😓😆💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
I'm not saying this engine will not run good or l don't like it but my opinion if your going to be running a engine hard 7200rpm or more you'd be hard pressed to make any old style smallblock to run as well or last as long as a chevy LS engine I've had many old style built smallblock chevy engines 350s 383s that ran well but the 6 bolt mains on the LS engine is rock solid the crankshaft is bolted so tight to the engine block that it does not flex at higher engine speeds flexing is what destroys your engine and is why bigger engines that are revved high generally don't last as long that's why many old school racers liked the 283 302 327 engines with the shorter throw crankshaft they take more of a beating and as far as cylinder head flow l don't see to many smallblock chevy heads that can flow 358cfm on the intake side but stock LS3 heads that have been CNC ported do even expensive Air Flow Research aftermarket smallblock head only flow 280cfm to 300cfm on the intake side and cost 3000 dollars a set complete CNC ported stock LS3 heads complete are 1500 dollars you can have the biggest cam in the world if the heads don't flow you don't go fast getting a stock chevy smallblock head to flow over 230cfm on the intake side is close to impossible so any camshaft with over 230 duration is pretty much a waste of time the heads don't flow enough to support it the CNC ported LS3 heads will support a camshaft in the upper 240s with stock pistons and probably make 540-580 crank horsepower with a stock shortblock 6.0 or 6.2 engine on 93 octane fuel unless this old smallblock has 12 to 1 or more compression will it make this kind of power the LS engine 6.0 or 6.2 can make this kind of horsepower with 10.5 to 11.0 compression a realistic number for a old style small block of the same size is 450-480 horsepower it will need aftermarket heads and block pistons rods crankshaft and it won't last as long or be as reliable
With modern aftermarket companies now able to have lightweight forged crankshaft that offer a 400 journal crank and strokes of pretty much whatever you want, would you gain anything by going with a 3" stroke?
lol, I'm think I'm about to break down and buy one of those fancy ones that is exact fit for the piston size. But I'm sure as soon as I do it, I'll end up needing the next size up. lol
I was told not to touch the L-19 bolts with fingers ? Can weaken them . Idk Didn’t plan on making that kinda power anyway so I got the S2000 for now . Lol
John u may have already told this part of the build but what length rod did u install 6" 5.7" or what i know when i built my D stroked 400 sbc i used 6" and made my engine a 377 cubic inch best engine i have ever built
Hyper lube mixed with marvel's mystery oil.. great for break ins.. has lubricity n is still sticky.. have done quite a few diesel engines that way including some performance engines n has done extremely well
Now don't take this the wrong way but I believe that back over sticky Lucas additive that you use on those rod bearings and main bearings in this video may have been to blame for why your main bearings fail prematurely because although you have oil pressure running through that engine at start up that stuff it's so thick and so sticky that once it starts turning at a high RPM it is literally grabbing and creating suction to the point where it is pulling those bearings out of place and because of the thickness of that additive it is very difficult for that fresh oil to get through to those bearings even though it's coming straight out of the crankshaft
Too bad dingle balls have all the rigidity of honing via a toilet brush. Three bladers cost the same as a bore brush on average, and even with a new set of blades you're going to get better odds of piston rings sealing up to a true bore...its only cheap when you do the job once. just sayin' for the new guys :)
Hey there... i am building a 377 right now, 4.155 bore and 3.48 stroke... i got a 5.7 rod the piston deck height is way off .. is a 6.0 rod the proper rod
Curious as to the reasons why you are running the bore and stroke you have. Why a destroked 400ci? Better rod ratio? Power band higher in the RPM range?
@@joegramling5545 there are also certain race classes that benefit smaller cubic inch motors, and handicap larger CI motors. And then of course, there is personal preference...
Dunno where you get the idea that the chevy will outlast the ford . The 351W has a stouter block than the sbc , they can handle over 1000hp. The ford also has a much stronger crank . Fords also didn't suffer from cam wear like the flat tappet small block chevies did with their narrow cam lobes and soft cams . Mopar small blocks also have a stronger bottom end than the sbc . The mopar blocks are made of harder cast iron , with a higher nickel content . And like the ford blocks , mopar blocks have the head bolts further away from the bores which reduces distortion . Mopars also have beefier , stronger rods than chevies . Mopar rods are also longer , which reduces side loading of the cylinders for longer life . Chevy guys have to pay for "long" 6 inch rods , while mopars came stock with 6.123 inch rods . Mopars also have much wider cam lobes , with .923 inch lifters , which makes for much longer cam life with flat tappets . Yes , chevies are cheap to build , and easy to make power with due to the vast availability of cheap aftermarket heads and such . But the old carbureted , flat tappet chevies were normally worn out by 100 - 120k miles . I don't know where you get the idea that they outlast other engines .
@@HowardJrFord because in reality chevys run longer than fords. I have worked at both Ford and Chevy dealerships and there is a huge difference in engine quality. My father says its always been like that. Fords built better truck chassis up till 96 and GM made and makes superior engines. Ive owned all 3, chev ford and dodge. Im not impressed with any of Fords engines except for the 300 straight 6. I am impressed with the big block chevy, they are very tolerant to abuse and they run forever
Is that a stock block. I would never put a turbo on a 400 block. They are weak. Great info on the build. Nothing wrong with destroking its not always about ci and its actually easier on the mains
@Turbo John, I'd bet you gain more compression than you think. You already mentioned the longer rods putting the pistons higher in the bores, but the line-hone also raises the crank in the block just a little, so that will raise the pistons just that little bit more. You might want to check and make sure the pistons aren't too far out of the bores. If the block has ever been decked, I'd bet good money the pistons will be just a little out of the bores. No big deal, but you sure don't want that quench area to hit the head at high rpm when the rod stretches a little. You mentioned in the last video you were at like 9.5:1. On methanol, I'm betting the engine is going to LOVE the additional compression.
Nice build, though I'm not a big fan of the bearing spacers, seen too many spin. Would it be possible to weld up a crank to the size of the 400 bearings and go with that? I know the rods can be welded up for strokers. Just not a fan of what i call adapting solutions inside engines, usually they fail
what happen to #6 piston ? looks like battle scars...... i picked up a 400 short block the other day 509 casting apparently it was a 377 bearing spacers holding a 350 crank.0.30 over. it lost a rod im going to try to run it if it checks out ok..
John,what heads are ya running on your 364 or a casted Dart or Brodix ? You seem to be like me any and every little trick to get em to stay together or little tricks that make more horsepower there are so many people over look in the assembly it's really sometging, just tips and tricks ya pick up from old timers and things ya learn after doing it for 40 yrs now I realized I that damn time flies when your having fun!! I know it sure takes a toll on your body thats for damn sure good luck bud!!
I’m glad you questioned that! I just recalculated it. The old heads were 72cc, these are 64. The piston was also down in the hole about .025! With the piston at the deck, with this head it is 11.2!
Looking sweet john! Mains came out slick! Funny I found you and your videos when I was looking up LS thrust mods! That was a very good video so I had to sub. Lol reminds me I need to finish my car. Been playing with the trans stack ups lately lol
![Coheed and Cambria - Searching for Tomorrow [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hDsYGLbmadg/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice to see I'm not the only one who knows the Gen.1 SBC is far from dead.
kids who grew up on the LS think its the only engine out there..then they find out how much it costs to get it into a place designed for the Gen1. New oil pan, serpentine belt setup, throttle by wire gas pedal, etc...cheaper just to do a GenOne and swap all the 305 parts over.
But hey, thanks to them, i'm cleaning up on all the old school engines they are throwing out :)
The OG will always be a desirable piece!
Biggest bang for ones bucks!
If for no other reason than the countless cross dressers that will always need a OG SBC components! Lol
@@klausvonschmit4722 and the used components come up for sale the cheapest they've ever been...as folks rush to the LS fever.
They will live on forever.
Old stuff with better parts technology was something we made back then .. now you buy it
the knife-edged crankshaft drilled and balanced like that = supply a good crank and machining $2,000 easy spent there !
Just an FYI to 400 sbc builders. 2 bolt mains are actually stronger then 4 bolt mains. The geometry of the design is not the same a 350 sbc or etc. I built 10 so far, and I tell you 2 bolts hold more load.
In usual situations yes, but these are splayed main caps which are stronger than the regular 4 bolt AND the factory 2 bolt.
Real life racing on a budget great vid
I’m a simple man, I see a new turbo John video I like and watch ASAP
The fact that machine shops dip blocks and do machine work and don’t automatically install new cam bearings and frost plugs is mind blowing
With stockers. Some people like to do that themselves
You have to specify that and pay exorbitantly for it. Cam bearings anyway.
Lube it up and stick it in. I ran a 377 in the mid 70's I was just using the thick bearings. I twisted mine up. Off the line at 8 and shift at 8500. Stayed together.
What's the max you can go with oversized bearings? Before the crank is trash?
@@kramnull8962 I never ran more than .010/ .010 but I'm sure .020 would be fine. Probably depends on what crank.
@@kramnull8962 personally, 03 would be my limit, but every engine is different.
The knife edge work on that crank is sweet.
I’m subscribed love SBC especially destroked 400’s we had 18 degree headed 377 in our dirt car loved that engine combo !! Excited to see this build finished man great video
So did we..377” is the secret engine of dirt short track racing.
Destroked 400 with 350 crank is 377ci
I love how you do more with less
My small block of choice. Started building them in the mid 80s. Badass never lost a street race with them
never want to use locktite on a bearing ,, it expands when it gets hot and takes out the clearence
Heard it made for hotter bearings. Does it?
This is a similar short block to what's in my Corvette. I've got the 327 crank for 352 cubic inches, but 400 block and 6.2" rods for me. No boost, so the rest of the build will be different.
That LS Daddy block has been thorough the ringer
Moving right along, it's coming together nicely and getting some free knowledge along the way. Thanks John, really enjoy your videos.😎👍💯
Sbc version...of a 6.0!!!
What a beast!!
Awesome I am currently building a 400 SBC !
Strong engine for small money, if it's all matched up and put together right. Good luck Bro
@@joejones9944 I am trying to do it right. I have the 509 block so it was the higher nickel block two engine shops said it was the strongest stock block got lucky with that. Using custom skip white performance alum 62cc chamber heads lunati 510/520 lift cam 750 e85 carb performer air gap intake. KB flat top pistons and rods. So the engine shop said it shop put out 550 or so hp and 500 ft/lbs should be a nice combo. Thank you for the luck.
Bad boy combination you have!!👍🏻
Back in the day I ran a destroked 400 but mines was a 377. And yes I also had to use the spacers had it in a pick up with 4:88 4000 stall daily driver ran low 11,s but with juice I could get thrown off the track LOL I really enjoyed that destroked 400
Please correct me if I'm mistaken, entirely possible since I haven't built a Gen 1 SBC since the 90s, but I thought the 377 was a stroked 350, not a destroked 400. I could have sworn it was a standard 4.000 bore 350 block with a 400 crank, with the 4.030 bore being a 383 and a 4.060 bore making a 388.
While I was building a few engines back then, I admit that I didn't know all the possible combinations. If there was a destroked 400 that made 377 ci, I would seriously like to know what bore, stroke and rod combination gave that size. I have several blocks laying around, including 2 400 blocks that I stole cranks out of back in the day and I would love to build them and put them to use before I get too old to do the work myself.
I have a 1987 Toyota PU with a worn-out 22R that is just crying to have one of my small blocks transplanted into it.
@@biohazard_613 will back in the day before large custom after market kits like eagle kits , you had to build it on your own értel piston made a bunch of weird stuff run olds rods in a small block or run straight 6 ford rods in a small block ,as far as the 377 goes mines was a400 crank in a 350 (4 inch bore ) block with king bearing spacers on the mains. But you could also put a 350 crank in a 400 (4.125 bore) had to cut the mains down too 400
@@sonofmontezuma3732 thanks for the response. Like I said, I have 2 400 blocks laying around. That Toyota is screaming for a V8 swap. Looks like it’s time for me to start researching the parts that I’ll need. It’s good to have actually found a use for those blocks.
@@biohazard_613 myself I would just order an eagle kit now makes life a lot easier
@@sonofmontezuma3732 thanks for the recommendation. I’ve got about 4 kits on my list so far and theirs was one of them.
Long ago we learned that bearing spacers can and do cause the bearings to retain a lot more heat and cause problems.
Its a risky setup and pining them is not always a good solution either.
Good luck and i hope it works out better now with the fresh machine work.
I RAN THEM FOR YEARS IN LATE MODEL NO TROUBLE. AT CONSISTENT 82OO RPM. OL SCHOOL WINNING BACK IN THE 70s 80s
I cant help but laugh at that beat up piston, budget racing at its best...love it
Nothings more slippery than straight STP oil treatment, works great as an assembly lube plus way cheaper than Lucas oil stabilizer. 👍
Some say several Name Brand assembly lubes is STP with different colored dyes… 🙄🤔🤷♂️😁
Your the man John. I start my s-10 build this weekend and hopefully see you at the track by spring. Best channel on the tubes.
Thanks for the little details, amazing how u builders figure these things out. Great video
Your videos are really high quality, you do great work! Always enjoy your content
It’s so awesome to see that sbc makes so much power 👍 keep up the good work
Why would anyone dislike this video? TJ always makes great videos with tons of info and details on everything.
super strong big duty performance engine = JEWELERY !
That's one badass motor it's going to be John well thanks buddy have a good night
Got my flip coin in the mail from you today looks good thank you
bill jenkins ran the 400 bock , but used the small journal 327 steel crank , requiring more tinkering with bearings and spacers . another thing to muse over is he always prefered to use a block that had done about 100,000 miles in a truck , reasoning that the block had moved around all it was going to . a " green " or new block will move around , and all your carefully set up clearances will change , hurting power .
I recieved my merch today, I can't believe how quickly it got here! Very nice shirts and the flip coin is a nice piece too! Much heavier than I expected it to be. Thank you.
Could use a little bit better Block preparation sanding block to clean all the surfaces check all the thread holes make sure the oil galleys are scrubbed and cleaned mains seem to be a little bit on a tight side need to double check bearings clearance our main caps over tighten ?
Good to see it going back together
Those are rugged main caps I remember a long long time ago adding supports to my caps those are super beefy times have changed a lot for small blocks in general I can't find much affordable LS stuff so I'm going to the hemi im finding those everywhere complete vehicles for 1000.00 or less ! Miss my older builds though I used 30 over 400s with the 6 inch rod surfing through looking at the different builders on here and you all use a little here and there of what I did and I had some real fast cars that didn't need a turbo or nos my street car went 580s 590s in an 8th mile back 25 years ago. Only used aluminum rods with nitro methane pre ignition shock absorbers
I use Lucas or the stp.. They are a great assembly lube... Snotty messy.. But worth it
NICE MOTOR, THAT THING SHOULD REALLY SCREAM
i was going to build a square body have a shit ton of them but ended up getting a 79 short box 4x4 cheyenne full option truck with the 400 / 400 turbo Quadro traction with under 35,000 miles on it for free just needed a new fuel pump and carb cleaned out. i did drive it a little but now it sets in my collection of rigs. i have 10 acres of rigs to work with. next is a 79 rs z28 t top have most of the parts to build it even new interior got most of the parts from 2 other z28's then got a stroke 454 with the 02xx trans and a t-10 not sure witch to go with have everything i need to put it in all for free
Thats what i like about you Turbo John!! Nothing gonna hold you back!!!#TurboJohn💪💪💪💪 #neverstop
Crack each end of the crank with a big hammer before touqork it will spon like a top if not you'll have drag like you just showed !! 50 yea of building 10,000 rpm small blocks
I use the same engine stand an you load your pistons the way 8 was taught...😎✌
Turbo John is dope and simple SBC no LSX or LTX and you make the same power or even more and that's why I like him,,, yeah the block maybe Dart but its fasure not a LS which is Great tired of seeing those sometimes👀😓😆💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
I'm not saying this engine will not run good or l don't like it but my opinion if your going to be running a engine hard 7200rpm or more you'd be hard pressed to make any old style smallblock to run as well or last as long as a chevy LS engine I've had many old style built smallblock chevy engines 350s 383s that ran well but the 6 bolt mains on the LS engine is rock solid the crankshaft is bolted so tight to the engine block that it does not flex at higher engine speeds flexing is what destroys your engine and is why bigger engines that are revved high generally don't last as long that's why many old school racers liked the 283 302 327 engines with the shorter throw crankshaft they take more of a beating and as far as cylinder head flow l don't see to many smallblock chevy heads that can flow 358cfm on the intake side but stock LS3 heads that have been CNC ported do even expensive Air Flow Research aftermarket smallblock head only flow 280cfm to 300cfm on the intake side and cost 3000 dollars a set complete CNC ported stock LS3 heads complete are 1500 dollars you can have the biggest cam in the world if the heads don't flow you don't go fast getting a stock chevy smallblock head to flow over 230cfm on the intake side is close to impossible so any camshaft with over 230 duration is pretty much a waste of time the heads don't flow enough to support it the CNC ported LS3 heads will support a camshaft in the upper 240s with stock pistons and probably make 540-580 crank horsepower with a stock shortblock 6.0 or 6.2 engine on 93 octane fuel unless this old smallblock has 12 to 1 or more compression will it make this kind of power the LS engine 6.0 or 6.2 can make this kind of horsepower with 10.5 to 11.0 compression a realistic number for a old style small block of the same size is 450-480 horsepower it will need aftermarket heads and block pistons rods crankshaft and it won't last as long or be as reliable
you should torque the mains to whatever the machine shop did while they line honed it right?
Love your vids. I love watching people assemble their own engines
Dutweiller's favorite is a 4.155 x 3.625 ....392ci approx.
There is like no space between them holes. I hope you have a set of titanium head gaskets.
short block is looking good
Interesting,de-stroked long rod engine? Lots of dwell time. Imagine a flat plane crank with that set up.
Or offset even!
Thanks John.
I've never heard of destroking a motor. I'll be watching to see how the end result is
It makes about 1700-1800hp with 40psi
good job scrow
Nice engine cant wait to see it run
huh, just discovered your channel on the youtube mainpage. Currently collecting parts for a 377, I think I'm going steel rods though
With modern aftermarket companies now able to have lightweight forged crankshaft that offer a 400 journal crank and strokes of pretty much whatever you want, would you gain anything by going with a 3" stroke?
dont know ur complege setup, but lookz promising.
My half filled ls2 403 setup died the other week it cracked and broke a chunk of the top of the bore
I've still got the old ring compressor i bought from Advance when you worked in Dunn..
lol, I'm think I'm about to break down and buy one of those fancy ones that is exact fit for the piston size. But I'm sure as soon as I do it, I'll end up needing the next size up. lol
And thus is life.. But for every tool you buy.. It's one you don't have to borrow... At least that's what i tell my wife
I was told not to touch the L-19 bolts with fingers ? Can weaken them . Idk Didn’t plan on making that kinda power anyway so I got the S2000 for now . Lol
You are right should be wearing gloves when handling the L-19 rod bolts. Very good bolt if handled correctly.
Sbc ftw
John u may have already told this part of the build but what length rod did u install 6" 5.7" or what i know when i built my D stroked 400 sbc i used 6" and made my engine a 377 cubic inch best engine i have ever built
This one uses a 6.200 rod.
hey really cooL engine build!
Always a big fan of your content Bro!
Hyper lube mixed with marvel's mystery oil.. great for break ins.. has lubricity n is still sticky.. have done quite a few diesel engines that way including some performance engines n has done extremely well
Interesting
Now don't take this the wrong way but I believe that back over sticky Lucas additive that you use on those rod bearings and main bearings in this video may have been to blame for why your main bearings fail prematurely because although you have oil pressure running through that engine at start up that stuff it's so thick and so sticky that once it starts turning at a high RPM it is literally grabbing and creating suction to the point where it is pulling those bearings out of place and because of the thickness of that additive it is very difficult for that fresh oil to get through to those bearings even though it's coming straight out of the crankshaft
327 crank?
I need to build one myself.. great video
Destroked oldschool
John it’s not “berry hone” its “ dingleberry hone”. 😂😂😂
Mike eagle where you at sir?
@@mikestufano4961 What?
Too bad dingle balls have all the rigidity of honing via a toilet brush. Three bladers cost the same as a bore brush on average, and even with a new set of blades you're going to get better odds of piston rings sealing up to a true bore...its only cheap when you do the job once.
just sayin' for the new guys :)
Hey there... i am building a 377 right now, 4.155 bore and 3.48 stroke... i got a 5.7 rod the piston deck height is way off
.. is a 6.0 rod the proper rod
Curious as to the reasons why you are running the bore and stroke you have. Why a destroked 400ci? Better rod ratio? Power band higher in the RPM range?
I think he bought an old nascar crank for cheap, which dictated the rods and pistons.
@@joegramling5545 there are also certain race classes that benefit smaller cubic inch motors, and handicap larger CI motors. And then of course, there is personal preference...
Good job
To me I would go for a longer stroke equals torque witch moves the car
Cool video with some good info
I love the SBC.....😎
Cant beat a sbc, they will out last and out power a sbf every time.
I'm right with you.love a sbc.the're engineered better I built Ford engines. Chevy just built a lot better and cheaper
Dunno where you get the idea that the chevy will outlast the ford . The 351W has a stouter block than the sbc , they can handle over 1000hp. The ford also has a much stronger crank . Fords also didn't suffer from cam wear like the flat tappet small block chevies did with their narrow cam lobes and soft cams . Mopar small blocks also have a stronger bottom end than the sbc . The mopar blocks are made of harder cast iron , with a higher nickel content . And like the ford blocks , mopar blocks have the head bolts further away from the bores which reduces distortion . Mopars also have beefier , stronger rods than chevies . Mopar rods are also longer , which reduces side loading of the cylinders for longer life . Chevy guys have to pay for "long" 6 inch rods , while mopars came stock with 6.123 inch rods . Mopars also have much wider cam lobes , with .923 inch lifters , which makes for much longer cam life with flat tappets . Yes , chevies are cheap to build , and easy to make power with due to the vast availability of cheap aftermarket heads and such . But the old carbureted , flat tappet chevies were normally worn out by 100 - 120k miles . I don't know where you get the idea that they outlast other engines .
@@HowardJrFord because in reality chevys run longer than fords. I have worked at both Ford and Chevy dealerships and there is a huge difference in engine quality. My father says its always been like that. Fords built better truck chassis up till 96 and GM made and makes superior engines. Ive owned all 3, chev ford and dodge. Im not impressed with any of Fords engines except for the 300 straight 6. I am impressed with the big block chevy, they are very tolerant to abuse and they run forever
Ready for battle again!!
Is that a stock block. I would never put a turbo on a 400 block. They are weak. Great info on the build. Nothing wrong with destroking its not always about ci and its actually easier on the mains
No, this is a Dart Iron Eagle
I'm the guy with the 440 in the white Fairmont
Looks like big block Chevy crank snout too.
john what happen to your cam drive fuel pump. havent seen you run it lately. bet u wish you had it on in roc/hm
I have always ran belt. Bryan’s has a cam drive.
Bore a 400 .040 over and use a big journal 302 crank and you got yourself a big bore 327!
You should hard block it!
@Turbo John, I'd bet you gain more compression than you think. You already mentioned the longer rods putting the pistons higher in the bores, but the line-hone also raises the crank in the block just a little, so that will raise the pistons just that little bit more. You might want to check and make sure the pistons aren't too far out of the bores. If the block has ever been decked, I'd bet good money the pistons will be just a little out of the bores. No big deal, but you sure don't want that quench area to hit the head at high rpm when the rod stretches a little. You mentioned in the last video you were at like 9.5:1. On methanol, I'm betting the engine is going to LOVE the additional compression.
Nice build, though I'm not a big fan of the bearing spacers, seen too many spin. Would it be possible to weld up a crank to the size of the 400 bearings and go with that? I know the rods can be welded up for strokers. Just not a fan of what i call adapting solutions inside engines, usually they fail
I would just buy the appropriate crank
Enjoyed thanks.
what happen to #6 piston ? looks like battle scars...... i picked up a 400 short block the other day 509 casting apparently it was a 377 bearing spacers holding a 350 crank.0.30 over. it lost a rod im going to try to run it if it checks out ok..
Hey TJ who do you think makes the best crankshaft
Looking good John, are ya gonna degree the cam.? Gonna make big powa this year.
Yes, will degree it for sure
John,what heads are ya running on your 364 or a casted Dart or Brodix ? You seem to be like me any and every little trick to get em to stay together or little tricks that make more horsepower there are so many people over look in the assembly it's really sometging, just tips and tricks ya pick up from old timers and things ya learn after doing it for 40 yrs now I realized I that damn time flies when your having fun!! I know it sure takes a toll on your body thats for damn sure good luck bud!!
Profilers, check latest vid!
Look great ready to see it in the new car no prep
Thanks, I’m on a time line I don’t know that I can make for the new car.
Is there anything you cant do? Looking good!
Thanks, I try to do it all. But sometimes it bites me, lol.
Every time you run this spring the country is going to go silent as everyone strains to hear strange sounds coming from your engine
I see that knife edging on the crank I don't know if it works but it's always been sexy to me hahaha!
Didn't see any steam holes in the 400 block??
This is an aftermarket Dart Iron Eagle block. 400 mains, and 4.165 bore
Never ever seen anyone put Loctite on them bolts before...
Ok on the 9.5 to one on the dome
I’m glad you questioned that! I just recalculated it. The old heads were 72cc, these are 64. The piston was also down in the hole about .025! With the piston at the deck, with this head it is 11.2!
@@TurboJohnRacing ok thank you I was wondering about that
Looking sweet john! Mains came out slick! Funny I found you and your videos when I was looking up LS thrust mods! That was a very good video so I had to sub. Lol reminds me I need to finish my car. Been playing with the trans stack ups lately lol
Get to work, racing season around the corner.
Does your machine shop guy work on Chrysler's? Big block Chryslers
Did #6 drop a valve at sumtime & your still gonna run that piston?
I'm not familiar with the 3.34 stroke. What was that from?
Where are the steamholes?