Destroked 400 SBC / SBC 350 Main Crankshaft in a 400 Main Block
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- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
- Let's go, we got a lot of work to do to get this new motor back together. This is an aluminum brodix 400 main block. My crankshaft is a Bryant billet crank with 350 mains. In order to make this work, we have to use spacer bearings to make up the size difference. Essentially, they take a 400 main bearing that is .010 undersize and modifiy it to be the spacer bearing so a 350 main bearing snaps right in. Not the most ideal setup, but this has been done for years to have a de-stroked 400 block. Big bore, small stroke gives a great rod angle.
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Used to build destroked 400s back in the mid 80s to early 90s, nitrous and supercharged before I got into Pro Modified. Badass set up and my all time favorite small block.
MAN that alu block looks gooooood! The roller bearings are sick! I think I heard some people even do it on the thrust. Funny the original video about your thrust bearing mod, is how I found your channel in the first place. Cool stuff john
Stay with the 350 mains . Increasing the size of the journal will increase the crank speed inside the bearing ( you don't want to do that ). Stay with what you are running .it will serve you better in the long run.
We used Honda rod bearings on our high rpm small block chevys 1.887 was the journal size. It definitely helped with bearing life.
@@jason7475 that’s not old thinking. Larger bearing make more drag. That’s exactly why if you had if you had say a 302 making identical horsepower and torque to a 351w the 302 will always be faster.
@@jason7475 also wrong. Bearing strength isn’t a factor, all an engine cares about is oil film
@@RiversideRacecraft They will be the same because if there is any drag it has already overcome or it wouldn't make identical horsepower and torque. 😂
@@taylorsrus9543 if a 351 is making the same hp and torque as a 302 then it is not as efficient as the 302 because it is making less hp/cubic inch and bearing drag may be one of those inefficiencies
Looks good John. And by what I saw in the video looks like you've done this a time or three as any of us racing on a budget. And that block is nice a really nice peace. ✌
Yes sir, lol
I loved my 377 i built back in the day I had no idea what I was doing at the time but it was very impressive for what it was
@@scottsmith5623 lol yes I was 16 at the time I built mine and put it in a gutted 3rd gen firebird and it was a blast everyone who heard me coming thought it was a crotch rocket the way that thing would rev🤣
42 now btw lol
same here off the line at 8,000 shift at 8,500. Was running mid 7,s in 66 nova street car. That was in 1974
Have the same block. 100 lbs lighter than my GM 350 block….it’s a beautiful sight sitting between the wheels
Built one back in the 90s for my street raced/driven vega wagon i had. Dont remember what crank and rods etc but i know had 6 inch h beams, the compression was supposed to be around 13 to 1 had the biggest solid cam that crane made that i could run nitous on, pg w brake and a 5000 stall, and 9 inch on homemade 4 link bars that attached basically in stock location. I ran so many bottles of nitrous thru it never missed a beat. take off on the converter let go trans brake, Hurt many feelings here in north florida with that car, on the track and on the street, drove it everywhere, drove from my place to daytona beach for the turnkey rod run no probs Damn i miss that car. Oh best times before i got rid of it was 9.42 at SGMP they didnt care i didnt have all safety equip that likd it would put on a show with the front 3 ft off the ground and me shifting at 8500
Love that aluminum 400 block John, Great informative video as always.
Your going to have ONE SICK MACHINE !
i am placing 3/8" thick 4.185" bore size sleeves in 350 block gm small block chevy with stock crank for 383 cubic inches stock stroke. Now if i use a 4" crank i can get 440 cubic inch for a nice daily low rpm'er. Although rod length is not optimal. If i use a 3.625" that gives me a 399 cubic inch with a great rod ratio. If i use a 3.75" crank this gives me a 413 cubic inch. A 3.8" yields a 418 c.i. And a 3.9" stroke makes a fine 429. Just imagine a 4.1" stroke = 451 c.i. Imagine a 4.15" stroke = 457 c.i. And last and not least 4.2" stroke = 462 c.i. And now complete fantasy 4.25" stroke = 468 cubic inch small block. The most bore size to fit any kind of gasket and chevy standard bore spacing heads would be 4.190" And that is only almost 2 cubic inch difference and not worth it. Shall it work in a 350 with modifications? we shall hopefully see. Maybe it would be worth it to try and put a 4" crank in a standard over bore size 4.030" resleeved block for 408 cubic inches instead. Just a really bad rod ratio i believe. Although people get away with 5.565" rods in the 400, so why not? A 4" stroke in a stock 9" or 9.025" deck 350 block gives 408 cubic inches the biggest rod of 6" with a 1" piston has a the best rod ratio that can fit on a stock deck height 408 cubic inch, 4" stroke, um 350. The ringland is through the pin bore on this. So for street daily driver how would this be and go like? The rod ratio for 6" rod and 4" stroke is = 1.5:1 still better than the stock 400 sbc. And with a 1.15" piston and 5.85" rod the ratio comes to = 1.4625:1 that is just under the stock rod ratio of the 400 sbc being = 1.484:1 with a 5.565" rod and 3.75" stroke.
Looks like the Hot Rod is going back together! 🤩🤩
I see an Aluminum Block.....AWSOME MY BROTHER! VERY NICE.
I am excited for you.
Just put together my rotating assembly on my channel. Missed the other video of you modding the thrust bearing though. Wish I had seen this one before I put it together. Hopefully they will live a long life the way it is! 🙏
That things pretty. Nice everything swapped over easily. Should be worth it.
John that new motor looks awesome
Thanks for the update 👍😀. And God bless all 👌
On that block, look at the oil pump, and the feed area of the block from the pump, and make sure the pump and block are blueprinted same pattern, same match-up.
On my block factory the feed from pump is a circle hole, but the pump is an actual oval, so we needed to match it by drilling out the block, boom 5-10 free HP gain just getting rid of a factory engineering issue, and what a difference in quantity of flow volume it achieves.
would a new crank not be just as cheap as getting the old one welded up and turned sometimes saving a couple hundred is not worth the time and trouble and welds never last as long then you could just buy the right main size with the stroke you want but I am a big fan of the 364 or 421 depending on your application
We've been running this garbage double stacked bearing spacers for over 30 years. Thousands of these engines have been built. Why hasn't the aftermarket just made a thick bearing that allows this to be done without the hocus pocus?
They do make them about $200 I found them on egay lol I'll have to see if I can find the part # on them
@@JeffB80 I was unaware that someone had finally corrected this bs. I dont understand why king, maule, or ACL didn't do this in the 80's.
@@Go4BrokeOffroad yes sir of course I can't find them now they are not in my watched items anymore I been looking for a hr now trying to find them soon I find them I'll let u know
They do make a thick bearing and have for years now. Easier to get then than now. They are costly and spacers work.
Available but expensive, I built one for my wifes 70 chevelle about 20 yrs ago.
looks nice john now youve got to polish up the heads
In my day that was called a 377 hi rev engine we used to gobble up all the 400 out of station wagons and impala’s & caprice cars , ertel made cheap piston’s, king and federal mongol, TRW, speed pro made the spacers, in a light car with 1st design off road camshaft car made easy high 10’s all motor
Those were the days. Things have changed so much now
It's an engine John NOT a motor.
Motors are in electric vehicles.
Might be the time to be pe....... correct!
In the USA.......Engines have for the most part been cast iron sorta..........Sorta swiss cheese.
NOT Steal........Big big difference.
Just saying.
Love Your Channel........Thanks!
It's an aluminum mota to me, lol.........Hopefully this one has all the horsepowers I need.
Going to be a nice piece Turbo 😎 💪💪
Man! John!!! Summer's over already, cooler air makes a difference on how they run, for the better, I wanna see some Wins bro! I still want us to hook up sometime, I got Gas & Food, drinks...whatever else you might need, dude, I just gotta get out of the house!! Hard to do in my case, no car & don't really know anyone around here! You seem like a cool guy which I know you are!! Sorry if I sound like I'm begging, but I'm just tired of never doing anything! You'll understand once we meet. Take care man! Hope to see ya soon! Video or in person! ✌😎
Hey Paul. Where do you live man?
@@BB-rn6so Willow Springs area, off of HWY42 S. & Rock Service Station Rd.
Thanks man, I'm pushing hard to get this thing done for the weekend, but it's gonna be hard. Gonna be a crazy week with having to have a lot got right to make it work and get the engine done. Let me know when you take to Jeff again. Maybe he will be getting to the track soon, and I can meet ya'll out there. See ya soon.
@@TurboJohnRacing Jeff is kinda to himself, he never answers his phone, he never calls me...and I was the one that got him fired up about cars when I had my 71 Chevelle SS, back in '83. But man, I still want to meet up somehow, someway! It sux not having any wheels! Hopefully figure something out! Looking forward to more TurboJohn winning races video's!!...... & repairs! ✌😎
@@PaulRhodes420 I'm in north Georgia. Just south of Chattanooga. You a good way away from me.
Hell yea John
It’s gonna be a rocket TJ!😎💯
💪💪💪
Hope you make the weekend. I think your buddies from Ohio are planning to come down to take some N.C. money !!!
Gonna be a long week, but I'm trying!
Looking good John.
Main bearing spacers, no go glue between the spacer and bearing? Like you did in past installs.
Thank you
Those spacer bearings have a groove for the oil, doesn't it get between the spacer bearing and the regular bearing instead of going into the crankshaft area?
You can get bearings that have the extra spacing in them to run a 350 mains crank in a 400 main block, so you don't need the outer spacing shells. I think ACL makes them .. Man, what happened to Vandervell bearings? seemed everyone used to used them in their V8 builds back in the 80s and 90s, but you just dont hear about them anymore
very nice block
Coming together she will be on the track before you know it
Big weight bias transfer👍
Love the channel John
Thanks
"Cant be good (hehehe)" your funny 😂🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Looking good.
How durable are aluminum blocks? I know aluminium is softer but is there any specific precautions to be taken with the aluminium blocks? Can you use an aluminium block for a street/strip car? Excited for ya.
Take care, be safe, and have fun regardless.
Loose on bottom end tight on top is fast.
Make sure you drill,tap and put set screws in to keep cam bearing from walking out.
JW
This one has spiral locks to hold them in.
Love the channel
Maybe the old engine can be put off to the side for the old gold car, for a drag and drive car.
Nice job bro 👏
Thanks
What Bo you how fit the rings to what size
John you still going to do an event at Knoxville Dragway?
Yes, Thanksgiving weekend
Loose on bottom end, tight on the top is fast
Are Spacers in an aluminum block kosher?
Can make a destroked 377 too...sweet motors..
less displacement = less power. Its that simple..
Not necessarily true in the turbo world!
Hell yeah
Be making test passes soon!!!💪💪💪
John, what is the displacement going to be with this setup?
364ci, 3.34 stroke
Built one for my wifes 70chevelle.
Didn't you loctite on the spacer bearing last time?
Not the last time, but the time before that. It didn't seem to hold up. lol. Half of them were snapped free when disassembled.
Going to be faster with that weight drop 💪 if you're interested in selling your old block I'd like to buy it from you
Gonna hang on to it for a while, may use it as a base in the other car.
@@TurboJohnRacing OK thank you
No offense I like your car the way u had I before the stretch& wing
yeah the wings too small!
Everyone does but there's a few people jumping on this goofy spoiler train and I'm hoping it dies off fast. I definitely understand if something is functional but the big wing movement really looks ridiculous. The majority of the guys that are running them are already extremely fast so hopefully this movement falls off soon lol
@@joshschonfeld3675 As open classes get more competitive there will be more big wings. At 200mph a functional duel element wing can produce >1600 pounds of downforce, with only the equivelent of a few hundred pounds of drag.
Isn't that like the Grumpy Jenkins set up his 327/331....dual quads and a 327 large journal crank..or small journal.aaaww shit I can't remember the combo but you do the research GRUMPY WAS WAY AHEAD OF HIS TIME ..LOVE YA BUDDY KEEP IT FLYING...SHHHH YOUR MAKING ME A FORD GUY .......NOT
Did you measure any bearing clearances or just 🙏
Trust the machine shops you pay to do that! I don't have the equipment to check it like they do. I used to use plasti guage behind them, but don't any more.
@@TurboJohnRacing fair enough! It was only because you mentioned pulling bearings out of packages and checking they were marked right.
Hey plastigauge works better than crossing your fingers 😂 but bore gauge and a set of mics are good to have if you’re just doing a freshen up at home. Sometimes that machine shop jail can slow you down 😂
I thought bearing tangs were just to locate the bearing.
They do, but I have heard if they are on the same side they could spin.
I never understood destroking an engine other than class rule limiting cubic inches. The thought of making it spin higher in rpms is False. High rpms is cam timing. Look at pro stock engines, 500ci. And 10,000 rpms.
if to be that sloppy with spacers, why not use the proper main caps and just space the block..as it is bimetal anyway.🤔
What Rods you run
MGP
Thanks buddy I watch all your videos and learn a lot from you keep up the good work
👍👍😎💪💯
👍🏽🇺🇸👍🏽
I weigh 160.
I have the strength to lift it, but the lack of lead in the azz...there is no way I can lift a block like that lol..
If you can make it bigger, make it bigger.
Oil restricters bearings.lol
First 🏆
WHY would a race engine want to use 400 mains. Too big so too much crank speed as they fry the oil. OK for a 3000 rpm 2bbl truck engine, makes the cast crank a bit stiffer. And even then they wear out the mains and away goes the oil pressure.
You should never have to modify a bearing,, you have another problem to wear out thrust surfaces. Especially on an automagic car!!
Stagger your rear main seal so the ends are NOT on the parting line.
You should be measuring every bearing for oil clearance. A critical measurement. Rods and mains. Different bearing have different clearances
Turbo cars push very hard when spooling. Dump valves on the transmission drop fluid going to the converter to help, but I have not installed them yet. I trust my machine shops with their equipment to set bearing clearances. I used to use plasti guage but it's not very good at being as accurate proper measuring equipment. As long as the crank is measuring good, I'm ok with my engine have a little variance due to bearing differences. But that's just me.
That was the problem with the Boss 351 Cleveland - too big mains. It was an oversight from the factory to put them 2 inch mains on an engine that made it's peak hp at 5800 from the factory and was intended for racing.
Looking good