Yes. I couldn't figure out how to fix it. It was something going on with the editing software. The weird thing is, none of my other videos have done tit (or do it) and I ust edited one yesterday with the same settings.
At 25 volts DC, you need a 3.1 Ohm driver to draw enough current to pull 100 watts RMS out of a bridged amplifier. you need to make sure the amplifier can produce 5.7 amps AC, which it needs to be current limited at 8 amps or higher, to drive the peak current. If driving 4 ohms, the amp will drive 71 watts RMS, roughly 100 watts peak. That requires 4.4 amps AC, which means the current limit needs to be 6.25 amps for the peaks. That seems more reasonable for an IC chip output stage. I tried to pull up the data sheet for the TPA3116, but I couldn't get it to load up. The numbers I used were calculated from 25 volts DC into a bridged output stage, rail to rail amplitude, without clipping. Switchmode amplifiers can get pretty close!!
@@AB1Vampire That's correct, If you drop the voltage and increase current, the power stays the same. The caveat, is that an output stage has a current limit, and the lower the impedance, the less wattage you will get out of that preset amount of available current from the output stage.
Dude how am I only now finding this video! This is exactly what I've been needing! YES! You said it has a built in low pass? (The board i think you mean? ) But this chip can do full spectrum audio amplification right? I guess it should have been obvious for me to look through the TI catalog of amp chips, but thank you man, this is exactly what i need. I can't believe this little tiny thing can do 100 watts, that's insane. Also it's great it has such a wide input range. It would be great for building a high powered portable speaker. Now i need to go look up the data sheet. Thanks man!
Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought you said the board needs a 5.5x2.1mm plug, but it's the other way around, it needs a 5.5x2.5 plug (the pin in the middle is bigger than normal, 2.5mm in this case), but thanks for telling me how these plugs are specified!!! That helps alot because of course all my PSUs are also 5.5x2.1 but didn't know how they were called. Thanks now I can continue my project! 😁👍
To reduce the interference you can use a Dc-Dc isolator for the power input because your body has a capacitance connected to the ground (Floor) And thus you will see a change in performance. Because the power adapter is connected partly to plug ground
I picked one if these up on a whim for a small project integrating amps into a computer case. It is only going to go anywhere near 100 watts at 2 ohms with the full 25v input.. at 12.4 volts with a 4 ohm sub its more like 18 watts if its lucky. For my application I knew it would not do anywhere near its full power, but I was hoping for a bit more than it does. The slope is first order, which is actually ok if you are using somewhat weaker mid/high units. Though it would be nice if it was adjustable. Instead i have to resort to changing components on the pcb. Next I think I am going to just build a power supply for it. I have 2 of the 4 channel variants for my satellites which come out to around 8w/ch at best into the speakers I use. But they are in bi-amp configuration for the fronts. and then the second amp is for center and surrounds. I am about $150 in for all the amps and crossover components, wires, plugs, speakers, wood, glue and solder... And it is built into the top of my Antec P180 case. So a project which has turned out quite well.
Thanks ! For my biamp fronts i just used a small capacitor on the line inputs to the tweeter channels to remove anything below about 8khz. It is just first order. For the mids I use the soundcard's settings for a high pass. This means there is no low pass on the mids, and it leaves a bit of overlap. A small tweak on my soundcards settings help though.. But I may do something about this. As the mid's start to break up a bit going that high. A little coil on the mid channels to low pass about 4k, and a different value cap on the tweeter channels to match would make for a more balanced setup. I did much the same for the 2 channels that drive the center, except there are 2 mids. The surrounds I used were full range drivers. My mid/hi speakers are just left over 4" Dayton drivers from another project, matched with some cheap tweeters from Parts Express. And built into some basic boxes. The whole setup goes plenty loud with the only issue being the sub lacks power. If I need more power for the fronts I could just use a speaker level cap on the tweeter and bridge the channels to give about twice the power there if needed. But my next step is to build a proper power supply to give them more than 12 volts. But I do not know how many times I have come home to find my son blasting it into distortion... At least at 12 volts they are fairly bulletproof and don't blow speakers up from clipping. It was not really that hard to do. An afternoon for the electronics, with most of the effort going to mounting all the amp modules and cleaning up the wiring. And if you don't bi-amp it becomes a lot easier. Any garage sale ghetto blaster speakers would work.
These small amps are really good when paired with proper power supply, if you dont have enought juice it wont work properly. It can do 100W (1% THD) at 26V but i would never go that high, something like 22-24V 5-6A is perfect to drive it, about 80W (1%THD) and 100 (10%THD) at 2ohms. (all according to datasheet, irl you would probably get a bit less) I paired TDA7498 with 200VA 30V transformer, voltage when sitting in idle is around 38V but when it plays it gets to nominal 30V resulting in only about 2x80W power (10% THD) which is more than enough for me, it could even power DVC sub with decent amount of power.
That hum when touching 3.5mm jack can be solved by adding 10k resistor from input to ground, also i would recommend to get wires directly to board since these connector are not that good at over 2A.
123Toid+ You could try this hack. Ceramic caps are terrible for audio and the reason for the hiss is that op amp so lets bypass that using a 4.7 micro farad electrolytic cap so lets take the ceramic caps out and jump one 4.7 micro farad electrolytic cap between the two making sure of the polarity, now we bypassed that op amp it's increasing the signal too much and try it again. While we have the soldering gun hot reflow some good lead solder on any of the terminals. Again sorry I didn't test it yet.
Yes of course if you touch it it makes noise xD. It doesnt do it when its pluged in. Your "body voltage" does this. You could take a 1000€ amp and it would do the same
Dragon Killer you're absolutely right. It is audible, but I was having a hard time picking it up with the microphone. So that was a demonstration for you. However, they noise is very slight and you need to be close to hear it
I bought the next one up with two (unlabeled) potentiometers with the same power rating, from Ebay. I have an old 8 inch Polk subwoofer that has a bad amp. I'm going to see if this will substitute for the failed amplifier. I'm hoping that one control is volume, while the other determines rolloff frequency. It came with no instructions or documentation. I'll have to use a separate small board to construct a power supply. I have the parts. If the bridge rectifier and transformer are any good in the existing plate amplifier, I will use those parts for my DC supply.
Kenneth Bynum III lol, so funny you say that. I usually have it louder, but chose to try the auto level audio function in my editing software. It supposedly optimizes all the audio clips to a standard level. looks like I'll have to raise that up a little 😁 thanks for the input!
The answer is no you cant :( The not so cool part is 100 watt @ 2 ohms :( they dont like 4 and especially 8 ohm speakers. so rather limited in use. if you can find a dual VC 4 ohm :) i am interested. i was looking myself for some good 4 ohm DVC. from dayton or something good. but they only have 8 ohms DVC :( wich makes 4. still not the 2 ohms we want. btw a 3 dB slope ? what kind of filter might that be i thought 6dB is like the minimum :) even then it plays up to 1 khz but they are nice boards if used with the right speakers. they are fullrange rather nice ! "" quote from datasheet"" The TPA31xxD2 series are stereo efficient, digital amplifier power stage for driving speakers up to 100 W / 2 Ω in mono........ :(
Great point Joppe! Definitely something I should have brought up. I actually bought this to test on the tang band W5 woofer. And everyone knows a 3db slope is what we call..utter nonsense. I will not lie, I have been getting very little sleep lately and recorded this last night. If only preparing for a baby took less time. Thanks for the awesome input! I'll just added that tidbit in the description and gave you credit as well as a link to your channel.
Hi so my question is are these safe to run them @ 2 ohms load ? I have a single 8 inch dual 4 ohm voice coil sub I would like to use but running them in parallel will give me a 2 ohm load . I didn`t think this would handle the 2 ohm ,, thanks for any help , Bill
I used one of these on a 10" sub for my PC setup after the cheapie plate amp died - it was rated 70w. This amp i would say had slightly less power (and i used a good power supply 5amp, 35v i think...- the amp would go into overload shutdown anytime i wanted to crank it up a bit. at low to normal listening volumes it worked fine. I replaced it with a Denon plate amp from a HTIB kit and that was way more powerful. then I got a MTX 10" dual voice coil woofer in there and wired it in series 2ohms. I was sure the amp would blow...still holding up. the tpa3116 could not touch it. I think the power 100w is over rated bs...
If you were using a 35v power supply that would be part of the issue with it cutting out. This amplifier only has a working voltage or 12 to 25v. Anything over that would cause issues with the amplifier. Having said that, it may not do 100w, I never tested that aspect of it. Most of the time companies put that on their, because the chipset is capable of doing it. But that means very little. Glad to hear you have a monster setup now though. Sounds like a great setup!
@@Toid bad memory, just a guess- - its a variable power supply I adjusted it to whatever the board maker said was maximum - i think it may have been closer to 28v or so...
It does put out 100w, Put a meter on your output. You aren't getting a ton of sound like a more powerful 100w amp because your high wattage speakers aren't efficient. Those need to be driven with an amp designed for type of speaker you have. Get a 50w 75w 100w high efficiency sub and try it again! You will be impressed with that little amp.
Hi can u advise me please...ive got some bullet tweeters...is it best to wire them with the attached capicator or to the crossover of my component speakers...thanks
G Man I should clarify a little. I'm assuming you're hooking these up instead of the other tweeters. The reason why you have to experiment, is I don't know if you're using the same ohm speaker or the same sensitive speaker. So I can't tell you for sure how well it will work with the pre-built crossover. The ohm load of the Tweeter, actually changes to crossover point. In the sensitivity changes the volume at which it's played. So you may need to experiment.
123Toid ....ok good point ..its 4ohm and same power handling at 70 w as my component speakers...the capicator on the bullet tweeter is 3.3 uf ....not sure what crossover point is on component x over...but yes will test ...makes sense for best sound
Kausik Kumaar great question. The simplest answer is yes. This would be perfect for like a small powered subwoofer build or a 2.1 setup. In a desktop Arrangement, all you have to do is split the input, and you have a nice little powered subwoofer to go along with your desktop speakers. However, if you're putting this in like a portable unit, you would need a left and right channel amp. The advantage of using something like this, is the subwoofer would have its own volume and set low pass.
123Toid what would happen is you run a stereo signal into this amp and into a single speaker? Do we get merely the Left channel or is it the bridged output from both channels into a single speaker? I have another toa3116d2 amp lying here and it works fine bridged :)
Zyziolec it is a great mini sub. It's the Tang band W5 - 1138. Here's the link: www.parts-express.com/tang-band-w5-1138smf-5-1-4-paper-cone-subwoofer-speaker--264-917?
anyone else getting some stuttering in the video?
Yes. I couldn't figure out how to fix it. It was something going on with the editing software. The weird thing is, none of my other videos have done tit (or do it) and I ust edited one yesterday with the same settings.
yep
Yes
123Toid tit
And i was thinking my phone was giving up coz its too old now
At 25 volts DC, you need a 3.1 Ohm driver to draw enough current to pull 100 watts RMS out of a bridged amplifier. you need to make sure the amplifier can produce 5.7 amps AC, which it needs to be current limited at 8 amps or higher, to drive the peak current. If driving 4 ohms, the amp will drive 71 watts RMS, roughly 100 watts peak. That requires 4.4 amps AC, which means the current limit needs to be 6.25 amps for the peaks. That seems more reasonable for an IC chip output stage. I tried to pull up the data sheet for the TPA3116, but I couldn't get it to load up. The numbers I used were calculated from 25 volts DC into a bridged output stage, rail to rail amplitude, without clipping. Switchmode amplifiers can get pretty close!!
The TPA3116 has proven it can do >50 watts x2, as long as it has sufficient cooling and power, at
Thank you for your math, I'm selecting power/speakers now. Lower voltage PSU can yield same output if higher current, correct?
@@AB1Vampire That's correct, If you drop the voltage and increase current, the power stays the same. The caveat, is that an output stage has a current limit, and the lower the impedance, the less wattage you will get out of that preset amount of available current from the output stage.
BLA BLA BLA EBAY IS CHEAPER. AND WHATS POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE ON THE POWER PLUG?
That's still a lot of watts for a tiny little chip and board like that
Dude how am I only now finding this video! This is exactly what I've been needing! YES!
You said it has a built in low pass? (The board i think you mean? )
But this chip can do full spectrum audio amplification right?
I guess it should have been obvious for me to look through the TI catalog of amp chips, but thank you man, this is exactly what i need.
I can't believe this little tiny thing can do 100 watts, that's insane.
Also it's great it has such a wide input range. It would be great for building a high powered portable speaker.
Now i need to go look up the data sheet.
Thanks man!
Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought you said the board needs a 5.5x2.1mm plug, but it's the other way around, it needs a 5.5x2.5 plug (the pin in the middle is bigger than normal, 2.5mm in this case), but thanks for telling me how these plugs are specified!!! That helps alot because of course all my PSUs are also 5.5x2.1 but didn't know how they were called. Thanks now I can continue my project! 😁👍
To reduce the interference you can use a Dc-Dc isolator for the power input because your body has a capacitance connected to the ground (Floor) And thus you will see a change in performance. Because the power adapter is connected partly to plug ground
I picked one if these up on a whim for a small project integrating amps into a computer case. It is only going to go anywhere near 100 watts at 2 ohms with the full 25v input.. at 12.4 volts with a 4 ohm sub its more like 18 watts if its lucky. For my application I knew it would not do anywhere near its full power, but I was hoping for a bit more than it does.
The slope is first order, which is actually ok if you are using somewhat weaker mid/high units. Though it would be nice if it was adjustable. Instead i have to resort to changing components on the pcb. Next I think I am going to just build a power supply for it.
I have 2 of the 4 channel variants for my satellites which come out to around 8w/ch at best into the speakers I use. But they are in bi-amp configuration for the fronts. and then the second amp is for center and surrounds. I am about $150 in for all the amps and crossover components, wires, plugs, speakers, wood, glue and solder... And it is built into the top of my Antec P180 case.
So a project which has turned out quite well.
Thanks ! For my biamp fronts i just used a small capacitor on the line inputs to the tweeter channels to remove anything below about 8khz. It is just first order. For the mids I use the soundcard's settings for a high pass. This means there is no low pass on the mids, and it leaves a bit of overlap. A small tweak on my soundcards settings help though.. But I may do something about this. As the mid's start to break up a bit going that high. A little coil on the mid channels to low pass about 4k, and a different value cap on the tweeter channels to match would make for a more balanced setup.
I did much the same for the 2 channels that drive the center, except there are 2 mids. The surrounds I used were full range drivers. My mid/hi speakers are just left over 4" Dayton drivers from another project, matched with some cheap tweeters from Parts Express. And built into some basic boxes.
The whole setup goes plenty loud with the only issue being the sub lacks power. If I need more power for the fronts I could just use a speaker level cap on the tweeter and bridge the channels to give about twice the power there if needed. But my next step is to build a proper power supply to give them more than 12 volts. But I do not know how many times I have come home to find my son blasting it into distortion... At least at 12 volts they are fairly bulletproof and don't blow speakers up from clipping.
It was not really that hard to do. An afternoon for the electronics, with most of the effort going to mounting all the amp modules and cleaning up the wiring. And if you don't bi-amp it becomes a lot easier. Any garage sale ghetto blaster speakers would work.
This amp is 80w rms + at 2 ohm :) Is great for the money
These small amps are really good when paired with proper power supply, if you dont have enought juice it wont work properly. It can do 100W (1% THD) at 26V but i would never go that high, something like 22-24V 5-6A is perfect to drive it, about 80W (1%THD) and 100 (10%THD) at 2ohms. (all according to datasheet, irl you would probably get a bit less)
I paired TDA7498 with 200VA 30V transformer, voltage when sitting in idle is around 38V but when it plays it gets to nominal 30V resulting in only about 2x80W power (10% THD) which is more than enough for me, it could even power DVC sub with decent amount of power.
That hum when touching 3.5mm jack can be solved by adding 10k resistor from input to ground, also i would recommend to get wires directly to board since these connector are not that good at over 2A.
Informative video thanks! Any advice on power supply's that are particularly suitable for audio applications?
Yes use 240v on it .. and plug the speakers on 110v
123Toid+ You could try this hack. Ceramic caps are terrible for audio and the reason for the hiss is that op amp so lets bypass that using a 4.7 micro farad electrolytic cap so lets take the ceramic caps out and jump one 4.7 micro farad electrolytic cap between the two making sure of the polarity, now we bypassed that op amp it's increasing the signal too much and try it again. While we have the soldering gun hot reflow some good lead solder on any of the terminals. Again sorry I didn't test it yet.
It also has to do with the cheap *Potentiometer*.
Newer model has a knob to adjust the freq cutoff
Yes of course if you touch it it makes noise xD. It doesnt do it when its pluged in. Your "body voltage" does this. You could take a 1000€ amp and it would do the same
Dragon Killer you're absolutely right. It is audible, but I was having a hard time picking it up with the microphone. So that was a demonstration for you. However, they noise is very slight and you need to be close to hear it
123Toid missunderstanding. Sry
Dragon Killer no problem at all. You probably taught quite a few people something that they did not already know. And that's always a win!
I bought the next one up with two (unlabeled) potentiometers with the same power rating, from Ebay. I have an old 8 inch Polk subwoofer that has a bad amp. I'm going to see if this will substitute for the failed amplifier. I'm hoping that one control is volume, while the other determines rolloff frequency. It came with no instructions or documentation. I'll have to use a separate small board to construct a power supply. I have the parts. If the bridge rectifier and transformer are any good in the existing plate amplifier, I will use those parts for my DC supply.
How about use it at a single 6.5" 4ohm/100w subwoofer? If yes, what should I be aware of? If not, why?
There is probably nothing wrong with the power inlet. The metalic terminals are soldered and the plastic cover stays loose around them
Quite normal
Are there any Bluetooth plate amps available that I can connect together to use in separate bookshelf cabinets?
Thanks for the video man . I was asking if you can recommend me an amplifier like this but also with tweeter output please . Sorry for my english
Good video just need the raise the level of your audio
Kenneth Bynum III lol, so funny you say that. I usually have it louder, but chose to try the auto level audio function in my editing software. It supposedly optimizes all the audio clips to a standard level. looks like I'll have to raise that up a little 😁 thanks for the input!
hello can i use 3 ohms subwoofer speaker on this ?
Great Video!! just wondering, will this work with 2 aura bass shakers?
Did you find the answer? I’m considering buying this for 1 bass shaker
May i ask regarding the power supply polarity of this sub.. thanks
it s this good for a 75w home cinema subwoofer? bandpass enclosure
from which site I can buy this speaker. I have this amp already.
Can I give direct subwoofer output from my Sony SA D100 4.1 home theatre to this board input. To power my subwoofer better...?
If it is a passive output, ie RCA. If it is speaker wire coming out, it's most like a powered out, in which you couldn't
Can i use 150.Watts & 4 ohm 10" subwoofer with this amplifier? will 150.Watts damage this amplifier ? please reply it will be so kind of you.
The answer is no you cant :( The not so cool part is 100 watt @ 2 ohms :( they dont like 4 and especially 8 ohm speakers. so rather limited in use. if you can find a dual VC 4 ohm :) i am interested. i was looking myself for some good 4 ohm DVC. from dayton or something good. but they only have 8 ohms DVC :( wich makes 4. still not the 2 ohms we want.
btw a 3 dB slope ? what kind of filter might that be i thought 6dB is like the minimum :) even then it plays up to 1 khz
but they are nice boards if used with the right speakers. they are fullrange rather nice !
"" quote from datasheet""
The TPA31xxD2 series are stereo efficient, digital
amplifier power stage for driving speakers up to 100
W / 2 Ω in mono........ :(
Great point Joppe! Definitely something I should have brought up. I actually bought this to test on the tang band W5 woofer. And everyone knows a 3db slope is what we call..utter nonsense. I will not lie, I have been getting very little sleep lately and recorded this last night. If only preparing for a baby took less time. Thanks for the awesome input! I'll just added that tidbit in the description and gave you credit as well as a link to your channel.
Hi so my question is are these safe to run them @ 2 ohms load ?
I have a single 8 inch dual 4 ohm voice coil sub I would like to use but running them in parallel will give me a 2 ohm load . I didn`t think this would handle the 2 ohm ,, thanks for any help , Bill
Bills BuildAll I never tried it with a 2 ohm load
Thanks I may have to try in then ..
Well my dual coil 2ohm sub will like a couple of these
Tysm for this video
This will be perfect for transducers/bass shakers right?
I want to ask
if used for 10in x 2 subwoofer speakers, is this power capable?
thank you
I used one of these on a 10" sub for my PC setup after the cheapie plate amp died - it was rated 70w. This amp i would say had slightly less power (and i used a good power supply 5amp, 35v i think...- the amp would go into overload shutdown anytime i wanted to crank it up a bit. at low to normal listening volumes it worked fine. I replaced it with a Denon plate amp from a HTIB kit and that was way more powerful. then I got a MTX 10" dual voice coil woofer in there and wired it in series 2ohms. I was sure the amp would blow...still holding up. the tpa3116 could not touch it. I think the power 100w is over rated bs...
If you were using a 35v power supply that would be part of the issue with it cutting out. This amplifier only has a working voltage or 12 to 25v. Anything over that would cause issues with the amplifier. Having said that, it may not do 100w, I never tested that aspect of it. Most of the time companies put that on their, because the chipset is capable of doing it. But that means very little. Glad to hear you have a monster setup now though. Sounds like a great setup!
@@Toid bad memory, just a guess- - its a variable power supply I adjusted it to whatever the board maker said was maximum - i think it may have been closer to 28v or so...
Mine turns on and than off and on like just the sound not the actual board like it cuts out pls I need help
Is it possible to use this amp or one similar to receive speaker level input from a speaker in/out connection board? If so, how would it best be done?
Does this amp have the turn on thump or the turn off thump? The weird thump at startup or shutdown
can i give it direct input from my car battery?
what is up with your bitrate?
Is the input Stereo? Does it sum both channels?
Yes. The amp is bridged
What adaptror did you use on the power supply????
It does put out 100w, Put a meter on your output. You aren't getting a ton of sound like a more powerful 100w amp because your high wattage speakers aren't efficient. Those need to be driven with an amp designed for type of speaker you have. Get a 50w 75w 100w high efficiency sub and try it again! You will be impressed with that little amp.
You should try it on 100w+ subwoofer
OfficialDaddys2 why would you do that? If you turn it up it'll start to clip...
@@sethh8892 why Does it Do That
I Have Ordered many Cheap Amps From China and all of them do it ;/
Hi if I may ask is this a good mono amp for aura bass shaker / tactile transducer 25watts rms 4 ohm.. ?
Were you going to use this on that sub? It seemed to push it
I am getting an echo sound in one channel. Any one have any idea why echo sound? Using with 12v 2amp supply.
It can be flound on aliexpress
Why is the video so laggy?
Whats the model of the speaker you have in the video?
Tang band w5-1138
Anyway to wire this in with a Bluetooth amp board?
It would be better to use a separate amplifier board and Bluetooth board. Then you can just split the output of the Bluetooth board to the two amps
What is the subwoofer that you used?
bit.ly/2SsAaI4 I've used it in a few builds including the Dinas and the mini earthquake.
@@Toid thanks
Does it have built in crossover ?
It does have a built in low pass
Hi can u advise me please...ive got some bullet tweeters...is it best to wire them with the attached capicator or to the crossover of my component speakers...thanks
G Man that's impossible to say for me. You're probably best of experimenting
123Toid ...ok thanks
G Man I should clarify a little. I'm assuming you're hooking these up instead of the other tweeters. The reason why you have to experiment, is I don't know if you're using the same ohm speaker or the same sensitive speaker. So I can't tell you for sure how well it will work with the pre-built crossover. The ohm load of the Tweeter, actually changes to crossover point. In the sensitivity changes the volume at which it's played. So you may need to experiment.
123Toid ....ok good point ..its 4ohm and same power handling at 70 w as my component speakers...the capicator on the bullet tweeter is 3.3 uf ....not sure what crossover point is on component x over...but yes will test ...makes sense for best sound
I didn't try it before suggesting it sorry.
Hey for $11, it still isn't a bad amplifier. I think most of the minor issues are most likely livable. I don't think it'll be my go to, but who knows.
Bluetooth?
so we need to use another amp for left right channel..
Kausik Kumaar great question. The simplest answer is yes. This would be perfect for like a small powered subwoofer build or a 2.1 setup. In a desktop Arrangement, all you have to do is split the input, and you have a nice little powered subwoofer to go along with your desktop speakers. However, if you're putting this in like a portable unit, you would need a left and right channel amp. The advantage of using something like this, is the subwoofer would have its own volume and set low pass.
123Toid what would happen is you run a stereo signal into this amp and into a single speaker? Do we get merely the Left channel or is it the bridged output from both channels into a single speaker? I have another toa3116d2 amp lying here and it works fine bridged :)
Can this board used with a 10 or 12 inch subwoofer?
Yes
what should the watt of subwoofer?
Yea touch heatsing or copasitors and you get anoying sound
Yo this sub is a tanban w5
60 hrz ground hum. easy fix..
Memerlukan power suplai berapa..
Sebaik-baik nya 22-24v, 5-6 A, regulated supply
Martin Lisa Robinson John Robinson Kimberly
BLA BLA BLA EBAY IS CHEAPER. AND WHATS POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE ON THE POWER PLUG?
I just have a quick question. What will happen if i use a 500 watts speaker in a 60 watts amplifier? Hope you can advise me.
nothing if the speaker impedance is not lower than the amp can take. its just not going to be as loud as with a 500w amp.
actually no it's not safe to use something that small on a larger speaker. If not setup properly it could cause clipping...
subwoofer name pls
Tang Band W5-1138smf
Can you recommend a subwoofer for my acoustat x panels?
50w
can i use this For a jbl 250W Rms and 1000peak subwoofer
at 23V 9A ?max
@@DoctorPatient wow Thanks For The Answer But i got Mine and it's Sound Extreamly bad it's Sure Damgaged
my sub just cried when you touch that cable
What is that sub? It's really nice!
Zyziolec it is a great mini sub. It's the Tang band W5 - 1138. Here's the link: www.parts-express.com/tang-band-w5-1138smf-5-1-4-paper-cone-subwoofer-speaker--264-917?
Thanks!
Zyziolec you're welcome
connect with your car let some music
Can this amp be used for my 10 inch sub for my car?
Yes.
But might you need 24v for optimal performance
what should be the watt of subwoofer??
Audio too low in your video..
U talking too much ,,, 😭
Worst review i've ever heard/seen