I do a variation on that. A single reef line that's dead-ended on the boom near the clew, up through the grommet, down to a cheek block on the boom, then forward along the boom with padeyes to keep it from fouling the mainsheet and its blocks, to another cheek block on the boom at the tack, then up to the tack's reefing grommet, down the other side to a block mounted on the deck, and back to the cockpit. One line does both ends. I marked the halyards so I know where they're going to be for a 1st or 2nd reef. The reefing process is: 1. Take up on the topping lift some. 2. Drop the halyards to their 1st or 2nd marks. 3. Tighten the reef line from the cockpit; hold it with a cam-cleat on the cabin top. 4. Release the topping lift. On my Sanderling, I can take in or shake out a reef in 15 seconds flat under any conditions, single-handing. I found trying to tie the forward and aft reef lines to cleats on the boom when it's sloppy out is often impossible, particularly on the Sanderling; it's a little easier on the 22 where things happen a bit slower. Also, I use 5/16" braid for the reefing line which is thick enough to get a good grip on but not quite so bulky that I'd be bothered by all that stuff up there. (Racers never stop racing, even if they never race any more.) I also asked Quantum to add a couple inches to the reef points lines, which makes tying them loose easier. Lastly, as to the other method for a quick reef, the name of the boat is Sandalize. Good video.
Great idea but poorly executed. This is a great video if you already know what to do. For example, you are pulling rope, but the camera does not show what the rope is doing. All I see is a man pulling a rope! Beautiful boat though.
What a great idea to do these videos Geoff. They are very helpful
Great video. Very helpful.
Very helpful. Glenn Burkland
I do a variation on that. A single reef line that's dead-ended on the boom near the clew, up through the grommet, down to a cheek block on the boom, then forward along the boom with padeyes to keep it from fouling the mainsheet and its blocks, to another cheek block on the boom at the tack, then up to the tack's reefing grommet, down the other side to a block mounted on the deck, and back to the cockpit. One line does both ends.
I marked the halyards so I know where they're going to be for a 1st or 2nd reef.
The reefing process is:
1. Take up on the topping lift some.
2. Drop the halyards to their 1st or 2nd marks.
3. Tighten the reef line from the cockpit; hold it with a cam-cleat on the cabin top.
4. Release the topping lift.
On my Sanderling, I can take in or shake out a reef in 15 seconds flat under any conditions, single-handing. I found trying to tie the forward and aft reef lines to cleats on the boom when it's sloppy out is often impossible, particularly on the Sanderling; it's a little easier on the 22 where things happen a bit slower. Also, I use 5/16" braid for the reefing line which is thick enough to get a good grip on but not quite so bulky that I'd be bothered by all that stuff up there. (Racers never stop racing, even if they never race any more.)
I also asked Quantum to add a couple inches to the reef points lines, which makes tying them loose easier.
Lastly, as to the other method for a quick reef, the name of the boat is Sandalize.
Good video.
if you have time, please post a video!! Sounds like a good protocol.
When you can do this alone while bouncing around in the waves you have arrived!
Thanks for the info. Once the first reef is in, how many knots is this good for?
Can I just spend a month with you listening?
Great idea but poorly executed. This is a great video if you already know what to do. For example, you are pulling rope, but the camera does not show what the rope is doing. All I see is a man pulling a rope!
Beautiful boat though.