Sadly, this won't save the owner a penny. If the turbo has that much wear, the turbo seals will soon be blowing oil through them if they aren't already. The hours of time spent attempting to repair a worn or junk part would offset the price of the new part. If you can do this yourself, have fun, but it's just practice for when the turbo finishes blowing up. It's a great time doing it twice.
I definitely NEED to bring my car to you, problem is I'm in Houston. I've been able to do most repairs myself, but when it comes to electrical stuff I usually save that for the pros. Sadly the mechanics here are quick to say "you need a new this or that" without even trying to attempt an economical repair. MAN I wish you were local here in town, cause based off what I've seen so far and believe me, I've watched a LOT of your videos and continue to do so-and yes.. I've subscribed to your channel, I always watch pretty much every video you put out. As far as I'm concerned, YOU ARE the TDI guru. I really and truly wish I had the computer software you have as well as the know how use and diagnose electrical issues, cause the mechanics here only deal with surface issues. They don't have the tenacity to dive deaper and fix it right, so props to you cause you're the man when it comes to TDI's!!
FYI I really appreiate the praise. I'm sitting here stressing out about a tough diag (oil leak) and dreading the customers reaction, but it really helps that someone appreciates what I do.
Most definitely, my issue seems to be circuit connection on the injector wiring harness. I saw your video and another guy's video where you took the wires out of the plastic connector and crimped them for better connection. I ended up breaking the connector on the end of the wire. So I went to Auto Zone and bought a pack of brass connectors. Put one on the wire, crimped it, put it back in the plastic housing and put everything back together. Only difference is the brass connectors I bought don't have the little tab on them that snaps and keeps it in place inside the plastic housing. I put it on and everything back together. The car ran fine when I drove it afterward, then the next day I drove to get a bite to eat and while in the drive thru it started running rough again, then it smoothed out as I got close to home. Mind you the fuel filter is brand new and it's got a brand new lift pump in it. I just drove it a bit ago and it ran smooth for the most part, there were a couple times where it started running a little rough. I'm thinking maybe the new connector isn't on all the way and not making good contact. It's like it periodically loses the circuit. It's also got brand new factory glow plugs in it as well as an upgraded turbo from Kerma TDI. Anywho, it's been a great car up until the last few months. It's been in & out of multiple shops and I feel like I gotten further on my own with it than any of these shops. Just trying to get it lined out so it'll be good for years to come. Based off of what I told you, can you think of any recommendations off the top of your head?
Great video and you happen to be local. 2012 A4 getting the dreaded P0299 under boost code. Ordered Diverter valve to see if that helps and if not will be looking at other options. Why don’t these come adjustable from factory. I guess they want to keep their dealer shops in business
that graph was the proof in the pudding. Good job dude. Wish I could do all that shit lol but knowing my luck with VW, I'll prob end up having to fix more shit on the way out lol
The rod coming out of the wastegate actuator looks bent. I would also make sure the actuator is not binding at either end of its travels under pressure. .I would also consider the condition of the actual turbo, seals, end play and radial play in the impellers-bearings.
Turbo was in great shape and was a Excellent candidate for repair. We of course check as much as we can before we attempt repair. remeber this car was very low mileage, but I wouldn't be afraid to do it on one that was higher mileage if the turbo checked out good. Rod was bent because I bent it to fit the lever perfectly.
Thank you so much for this great info! Question...i do have an extended warranty. I checked my contract and the turbo charger is covered under it. If i take it to my mechanic and he fixes just the actuator and it goes bad a month from now, will i still be able to have the warranty cover the full turbo if i need that down the road?? I just replaced the intake manifold then the calipers, control arms and pads and rotors. I have had alot ofbthings ive had to fix on this car and its adding up lol
@@CoolAirVw I'm already recommending it to others that DIY on VWs too. I was brought here by your website. Followed your 01M removal step by step. Just finished timing chains on a VR6 and getting ready to put the transmission back in early next week. I read your advice on the torque converter depth. Any special tricks or audible sounds I should be paying attention too other than wiggling and pushing the TC into the transmission? Thanks
There is almost no info on the Bentley manual other than depth. Other transmissions usually "clunk" or make a sound when the TC engages. It doesn't advice either on a technique to get it into the proper seating
I feel bad for all the audi/vw owners who were told they needed new turbos when this was all that was wrong with it. This job should have gotten a new clevis pin, they are available from turbosmart.
Great, great video, Thanks for posting this, Your name should be Honest-CoolAirVW! I am subscribed and will share with my friends. I just replaced my Passat 2.0T divertervalve (P0299) since it had a tear in the rubber gasket. I wish I had and knew how to use that software so I can see if my boost is OK 0n a graph. Anyways I know if I ever have an issue with what you fixed I'll send you my turbo!
Love your video I’m just about to do this . Can you remove the actuator while the turbo is still on the car and make the actuator adjustable then put it back in
@@CoolAirVw You are correct I ended up just removing the turbo. The flapper arm is completely ruined so I’ll replace that also . Love your video Thankyou
@@CoolAirVw it just opens a little and it doesn't go very smoothly and when I open it manually until the end it stays open, it doesn't close, I think it just needs to be lubricated somehow to make it easier to open and close on its own. Can I lubricate her with something?
Hi I’m having the same problem with a Audi A4 20 tdi B7 bre 2006 . Upto now I’ve checked turbo, all working how it should , next I’ve checked all the inter cooler system for leaks, no leaks , just ordered a new boost sensor but after watching your video it’s got me re thinking that it’s something else. Any tips please 👍👍 ps great video by the way 👍
I think I have the same problem with my 2008 GTI. All mechanics want to change my turbo and I don't believe they're looking at anything else. Even if I hypothetically find a shop that will attempt to find an economical solution to this problem, isn't it genuinely rare that a mechanic is willing to or even has the experience and intelligence and TOOLS to do what you just did on this turbo? I appreciate your closing statement rationalizing the effort and solution, but aughts don't make is's and I am not confident that even a recommended mechanic will take that kind of care and attitude with my vehicle.
you can get VW turbo's imported from Borg Warner's factories in China for around $650. What I hate is that the wastegate design is such that you have to change out the entire assembly over a small flap. If the turbo's CHRA is bust, then you might as well go get a new one.
What did you use to fix the wastegate actuator rod? I am doing this as we speak and mine where it connects with the e clip is worn out. Is there a replacement? I have the flapper kit, I need the part where the e clip connects the rod to the flapper.
You are a rare mechanic; most don't care about saving owners money as much as you do... Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks.
I totally agree great stuff on this channel
@@orville58 Me too! Right?
Sadly, this won't save the owner a penny. If the turbo has that much wear, the turbo seals will soon be blowing oil through them if they aren't already. The hours of time spent attempting to repair a worn or junk part would offset the price of the new part. If you can do this yourself, have fun, but it's just practice for when the turbo finishes blowing up. It's a great time doing it twice.
Thanks for your professional video now I understand what that flap not shut cannot built boost. Great job very helpful.
Your welcome. I've done quite a few of these now.
I just repaired another of these, and have another to do! Done a bunch of these now.
Very good video. Appreciate the detail in repair efforts! Will keep your page and business in mind for future reference.
thanks !
I definitely NEED to bring my car to you, problem is I'm in Houston. I've been able to do most repairs myself, but when it comes to electrical stuff I usually save that for the pros. Sadly the mechanics here are quick to say "you need a new this or that" without even trying to attempt an economical repair. MAN I wish you were local here in town, cause based off what I've seen so far and believe me, I've watched a LOT of your videos and continue to do so-and yes.. I've subscribed to your channel, I always watch pretty much every video you put out. As far as I'm concerned, YOU ARE the TDI guru. I really and truly wish I had the computer software you have as well as the know how use and diagnose electrical issues, cause the mechanics here only deal with surface issues. They don't have the tenacity to dive deaper and fix it right, so props to you cause you're the man when it comes to TDI's!!
Awe shucks... thanks.
FYI I really appreiate the praise. I'm sitting here stressing out about a tough diag (oil leak) and dreading the customers reaction, but it really helps that someone appreciates what I do.
Most definitely, my issue seems to be circuit connection on the injector wiring harness. I saw your video and another guy's video where you took the wires out of the plastic connector and crimped them for better connection. I ended up breaking the connector on the end of the wire. So I went to Auto Zone and bought a pack of brass connectors. Put one on the wire, crimped it, put it back in the plastic housing and put everything back together. Only difference is the brass connectors I bought don't have the little tab on them that snaps and keeps it in place inside the plastic housing. I put it on and everything back together. The car ran fine when I drove it afterward, then the next day I drove to get a bite to eat and while in the drive thru it started running rough again, then it smoothed out as I got close to home.
Mind you the fuel filter is brand new and it's got a brand new lift pump in it. I just drove it a bit ago and it ran smooth for the most part, there were a couple times where it started running a little rough. I'm thinking maybe the new connector isn't on all the way and not making good contact. It's like it periodically loses the circuit. It's also got brand new factory glow plugs in it as well as an upgraded turbo from Kerma TDI. Anywho, it's been a great car up until the last few months. It's been in & out of multiple shops and I feel like I gotten further on my own with it than any of these shops. Just trying to get it lined out so it'll be good for years to come. Based off of what I told you, can you think of any recommendations off the top of your head?
@@themayomanentertainment4335 are you getting a circuit code?
I don't have a code reader at the moment..
What a great job thanks for sharing your knowledge and skills
Your welcome. Thanks for stickin' in there and watching both long videos!
Great video and you happen to be local. 2012 A4 getting the dreaded P0299 under boost code. Ordered Diverter valve to see if that helps and if not will be looking at other options. Why don’t these come adjustable from factory. I guess they want to keep their dealer shops in business
yes they do.
that graph was the proof in the pudding. Good job dude. Wish I could do all that shit lol but knowing my luck with VW, I'll prob end up having to fix more shit on the way out lol
thanks.
The rod coming out of the wastegate actuator looks bent. I would also make sure the actuator is not binding at either end of its travels under pressure. .I would also consider the condition of the actual turbo, seals, end play and radial play in the impellers-bearings.
Turbo was in great shape and was a Excellent candidate for repair. We of course check as much as we can before we attempt repair. remeber this car was very low mileage, but I wouldn't be afraid to do it on one that was higher mileage if the turbo checked out good. Rod was bent because I bent it to fit the lever perfectly.
Thank you so much for this great info! Question...i do have an extended warranty. I checked my contract and the turbo charger is covered under it. If i take it to my mechanic and he fixes just the actuator and it goes bad a month from now, will i still be able to have the warranty cover the full turbo if i need that down the road?? I just replaced the intake manifold then the calipers, control arms and pads and rotors. I have had alot ofbthings ive had to fix on this car and its adding up lol
Will need this video in the future! Thanks for the detailed work 👍
Your welcome. Thanks for watching my channel.
@@CoolAirVw I'm already recommending it to others that DIY on VWs too. I was brought here by your website. Followed your 01M removal step by step. Just finished timing chains on a VR6 and getting ready to put the transmission back in early next week. I read your advice on the torque converter depth. Any special tricks or audible sounds I should be paying attention too other than wiggling and pushing the TC into the transmission? Thanks
There is almost no info on the Bentley manual other than depth. Other transmissions usually "clunk" or make a sound when the TC engages. It doesn't advice either on a technique to get it into the proper seating
@@Luis-xd3qg Just realize the tabs on the end of the converter hub will need to fit into slots in the pump.
I feel bad for all the audi/vw owners who were told they needed new turbos when this was all that was wrong with it.
This job should have gotten a new clevis pin, they are available from turbosmart.
how about a link to help the folks out who are reading this?
A dying bread Richard would love to work with you and gain some of that knowledge is this throw away world we live in today
He said, "dying bread". ;)
@@CoolAirVw lol
Love a good cliff hanger, nice job!
Hey! I know you! Thanks for watching and commenting on my channel.
Great, great video, Thanks for posting this, Your name should be Honest-CoolAirVW! I am subscribed and will share with my friends.
I just replaced my Passat 2.0T divertervalve (P0299) since it had a tear in the rubber gasket. I wish I had and knew how to use that software so I can see if my boost is OK 0n a graph.
Anyways I know if I ever have an issue with what you fixed I'll send you my turbo!
thanks for the kind words.
Love your video I’m just about to do this . Can you remove the actuator while the turbo is still on the car and make the actuator adjustable then put it back in
It would be very difficult.
@@CoolAirVw You are correct I ended up just removing the turbo. The flapper arm is completely ruined so I’ll replace that also .
Love your video
Thankyou
@@wadeharn7171 Thanks for watching. Glad it helped.
Great job Man!.
My wastgate got stuck its moving but didnt come back do you have any idea how to clean or something to do to work again normal...
On a tiguan like the one in the video?
@@CoolAirVw it just opens a little and it doesn't go very smoothly and when I open it manually until the end it stays open, it doesn't close, I think it just needs to be lubricated somehow to make it easier to open and close on its own. Can I lubricate her with something?
Hi I’m having the same problem with a Audi A4 20 tdi B7 bre 2006 . Upto now I’ve checked turbo, all working how it should , next I’ve checked all the inter cooler system for leaks, no leaks , just ordered a new boost sensor but after watching your video it’s got me re thinking that it’s something else. Any tips please 👍👍 ps great video by the way 👍
If you have P0299 on a tdi you should watch this video ruclips.net/video/Nl66nCaOlI0/видео.html
Jesus clip installer, never heard that expression before, but I think I get it. JESUS!!! WHERE'D THAT CLIP FLY OFF TO!!!????
thats it.
You are a Great man!
Awe shucks. Thanks for watching.
POP!!?? Wouldn't that be fuel igniting in the exhaust system, and when is that ever a good idea?
Thats what they do. I exploded a muffler on a 72 buick by a carb malfunction that way years ago.
What is the size of long nut on actuator rod? Is that 6m thread??
I think I have the same problem with my 2008 GTI. All mechanics want to change my turbo and I don't believe they're looking at anything else. Even if I hypothetically find a shop that will attempt to find an economical solution to this problem, isn't it genuinely rare that a mechanic is willing to or even has the experience and intelligence and TOOLS to do what you just did on this turbo? I appreciate your closing statement rationalizing the effort and solution, but aughts don't make is's and I am not confident that even a recommended mechanic will take that kind of care and attitude with my vehicle.
Thanks for the kind words. Ship the turbo to me and I'll fix it and ship it back.
@@CoolAirVw Wow I really appreciate that. That would actually be awesome. I’ll shoot you a message on your website.
What is the part number of that repair kit? Is it available from VW?
Email me. Find my email on my website at www.kansascitytdi.com
please tell me where can I get a VCSD scanner , give me a website link
www.ross-tech.com
How did you put threads on the wastegate actuator rod to make it adjustable?
A die.
you can get VW turbo's imported from Borg Warner's factories in China for around $650.
What I hate is that the wastegate design is such that you have to change out the entire assembly over a small flap. If the turbo's CHRA is bust, then you might as well go get a new one.
from where?
@@Noel127EBAY! Just compare the pics to make sure.
If its on ebay 99% chance that is some sweatshop knockoff.
What did you use to fix the wastegate actuator rod? I am doing this as we speak and mine where it connects with the e clip is worn out. Is there a replacement? I have the flapper kit, I need the part where the e clip connects the rod to the flapper.
Where did you get the flapper kit? Or what is the part #
@@seandonnelly3150 I got it off of ebay for $65
Do you notice that rot is bend
rod is bent? Ok. So?
Anybody know a good mechanic in SoCal, near Long Beach / Huntington Beach that would take the time to do a job like this?
your are a turbo rebuilder
Nah, I would never try to change the spinning components.