Thanks for posting the video. I checked it out and you were not at all mis-leading. Any mechanic worthy of his craft will make intelligent decisions about when to use what tools. Others will simply criticize. There are many who will benefit from your video. Well done.
Even at 70 years of age, I can still pick up a piece of useful information. Center drills. How have I missed them all my life? I do know that it is almost impossible to keep a regular drill bit in the center of what you are drilling. But, with the start a center drill gives, it is no longer impossible. Thanks a bunch.
Never thought of using a centre drill actually, might give that a go! I usually use a 3mm drill but carefully centre punch first. Getting it central is the key, no matter how it goes!
Great video. I just bought a set of these extractors which also came with a set of matching drill bits. However there were no instructions and so - being a complete novice to this - I wasn't quite sure how I was supposed to use this properly. Your video made it very clear. Thanks!
This is the most informative video I've seen on this method. So the key is to drill a slightly smaller hole, hammer in, then use a wrench to slowly unscrew. The complaints on DIY sites are littered with inexperienced users believing just using an electric drill in reverse will do the job, then complaining it's "useless".
You would be surprised at the number of people that have mentioned in other videos that you don't need to knock the extractor in the hole! I've always knocked it in, as it tells you to in the instructions 😉 Thanks for the comment 👍
Thanks for making the video. I was successful at removing a broken exhaust manifold stud out of the head. It was my first time using one of these extractors.
I'm glad the video helped. Well done for getting that out, exhaust bolts are probably the most difficult types of broken bolts to remove! Thanks for the comment 👍
Man, I could kiss ya! 9 year old video and still works perfectly. Using your video, I extracted a broken bolt out of the skid plate frame on my dirt bike. It was a nearly irreplaceable part. Thank you so much! Let me know if you want the pic. I am pretty proud of it considering it was my first try ever.
Wow excellent video! I have a broken stud that's been on my cylinder head cover for a year now and thanks to ur video I've gained the knowledge to go about fixing this issue. Thanks alot man!
Thank you so much. I have a set of easy-outs, and a shower cold-control I can't get unscrewed. I now know how to use the tools my late hubby left. I really appreciate the bit at the end that explains the science.
Spray it with AeroKroil then wait a hour then set the drill clutch to low and put it in reverse the impacting action of the drill will help remove the part.
Thanks heaps. I had a grub screw in a tap mixer fitting to take out. The Allen key slot was rounded out so i just purchased an easy out kit and followed your instructions, worked a treat.
Finally. I think I had to watch 10 nonsensical awful tutorial videos that simply introduced the problem then skipped to the end, before I found this wonderful video that ACTUALLY SHOWS HOW TO DO IT. Thank you sir for your knowledge and demonstration
Tut tut-an engineer using an adjustable spanner-Like you I have had mixed results when it works-fantastic, you're the greatest-when the extractor snaps flush with the work,well you know the feeling!
As soon as the drill turned the broken bolt/stud I knew you were going to be successful. When it gets a lot harder is when the bolt/stud is rusted/corroded into the hole. That makes things more difficult. I agree too that those "easy-outs" are about a 50-50 proposition. Glad you were successful, Mate!
Thanks man. Japanese motorcycles are notorious for broken bolts. May I also add that it helps using a torch for direct heat to loosen up the threads a bit as well.
Thanks, I hadn't used one in a while because I experienced failures most of the time with "easy-outs." I need to extract a 3" long deck screw that gave me the middle finger and bound up while trying to remove it. It not only wouldn't budge with my drill's reverse action, it of course (the wood screw gods are always pissed with me) stripped the phillips detent - completely. So, I'm left at the mercy of a screw extractor. I needed a refresher course and your video is an excellent one, mate. I was heartened to hear your chagrin with the "won't work most of the time" - made me feel less of a boob! OK, off to see if my luck has turned. thanks again, cheers, Bill
Decking screws are incredibly difficult to remove. I once built a deck and needed to remove one of the boards just a couple of days later, every singe screw head sheared off! Good luck with it ;-) Thanks for the comment 👍
You have shown the ideal situation here, where the bolt/stud is not seized in! You might want to consider showing a vid with a more complex extraction (seized in) and the problems of a broken easyout in the stud, the way they come to me when someone has already had a go and stuffed it completely. The one shown I would have wound out with the centre punch in a minute or so. Easyout is a misleading term in reality. Cheers from John.
Have you ever used left handed drill bits? I have a set that I only use to drill out broken bolts. That way, if the broken bolt moves, it is coming out, not going in deeper. I started doing this when I had one go in as this one did, but refused to come out. As you can imagine, this made a bad situation worse. TIP: If you break off a drill bit, Or screw extractor, in the hole, Heat it until red hot, then let cool to room temperature, repeat, then drill out. The heat will soften the broken piece, making it drillable.
I have used left handed drill bits, they are very useful- Remove a broken bolt using a left handed drill bit Thanks for the tip about heating up the broken piece ;-)
I didn't need the extractor. I drilled an uneven, ragged hole about half inch inside the bolt. Then I took a huge screwdriver and hammered it inside the hole. Then I took vise grips, and turned the huge screwdriver with the vise grips attached to the end of the screwdriver. It was very easy. Thank you for your videos.
Great video. My luck is the broken off bolt is usually rusted to surrounding metal. It was great to see someone actually have success using an easy out. I'm going to have to purchase a center drill as that is a critical part of the process.
If the screw extractor doesn't work on a screw that's exposed and not broken off or flush, rather than go the oft-repeated route of taking a Dremel and cutting a slot for a standard flat screwdriver (that still may strip), here's a less frustrating and more fool-proof method: Take a grinder (full-size or a grinding bit on a Dremel, or a file if you don't have one) and flatten two sides of the screw head on opposite sides. Then grab it with vice grips and unscrew it. The flats will let you get a better grip without it slipping like it would with a round head. You'll get a lot more leverage on a stuck screw with vice grips than you would with a screwdriver and it's a lot less likely to strip again than a slot for a standard screwdriver might.
Thanks for the reply; A right angle drill could be my only solution, for now I have taken the chance to assemble the pump back and drove the car a few miles, it seem to be holding ok but I do know if that pump starts leaking I will have no other option than to get that broken bolt one way or another... I too saw some other videos and tips about using a torch... I will keep you informed and thanks again for sharing your tips!!!!!
Thanks for posting the vid. We had a snapped bolt stuck in a Subaru WRX head. Googled and this video came up and was very clear. We used my mill to keep the precision as the bolt was only a m8. We also used cutting fluid. After a nice tap of the ezyout into the bolt ... out she came with no dramas. Thanks again.
Thanks man. This dude at best buy told me that I needed a screw extractor to open the area designated for a hdd & I didn't know what the hell he was talking about! Thanks to you, now I know. Cheers!
Appreciate the concept here but you've faked one for the video - show us one that is bottomed out or seized and corroded - generally found easy outs in smaller sizes to be near to useless - generally for serious broken bolts/studs spline drive style extracors or good old drill & retap are required. The very first thing to try is the good old tap around with a centre punch - which would have worked in this instance -demonstrated by the fact the thread 'ran' to the bottom during the drilling !
I just had to thank you for this video! I accidentally broke a valve cover bolt off leaving the remaining screw in the top of the head. I wend and bought a drill bit and ease out and presto.. It came right out. Thanks again!!
Thank you so much I drill in to the bolts but a bit of an angle now on my way to buy extractor set.Thanks for your video helped a lot! Update I use a drill bit to drill hole in the middle only to see the bolt started to turned clock wise,I then inclined the drill bit and the bolt came out about 3mm I then use my cutting flat pliers and the broken bolt came out happily ever after!
Yes I too appreciate your honest direct approach. Am trying to remove a screw that is holding the last of my old shower door frame into the wall. It is making me crazy! The phillips head top of screw got stripped and I have now tried extractor kits from 2 different companies and still no luck. The first (the "Grabbit Pro" tool), had not enough directions for me to even understand how it works. Wish I would have seen this video first ! thank you.
In my experience, these are the most disappointing handyman tool there is, and are generally derided by tradesmen. They only work for studs or bolts which are free enough to turn that you could grind a slot in them with a Dremel and wind them out with a screwdriver. If the broken stud is hard to turn, these will just expand it more tightly into the hole, At this point, any further torque will simply break the hardened easyout. You will now spend easily five times as much getting a tradesman machinist/welder to do a difficult extraction job. Here's my recommendation: either take it to a machine shop, or (if you have the skills, but don't have a TIG aka GTAW welding plant): Make a guide jig which you can clamp to the part in order to drill an accurate pilot hole in the middle of the broken stud. If you can get your hands on left handed bits, so much the better, otherwise, simply take a couple of suitably sized conventional bits and sharpen them (and run them) backwards. Don't worry about getting the geometry perfect: if they grab, so much the better. The final one of these drill bits (if needed) should be the largest you can run into the hole without removing the thread crests of the female (tapped) hole. The remnants will almost certainly run themselves out like a helicoil, connected to the stub at the bottom. If not, drill right through, then coax the coil out with a scriber and some needle nose pliers.
have you ever tried heating up the broken bolt with a torch and melting some wax into the threads? works everytime for me when using screw extractors. the wax penetrates and lubes up corroded threads 10x better than any pb blaster or wd-40
+Ultimate Handyman Beeswax is the one for the job. If you can't find it Toilet seal rings have beeswax. I think a more modern approach would be to soak it in Kroil.
Good point that folks may have missed in that video is you made sure the hole drilled was deep enough before trying the extractor. Have seen two lads now not drill the hole deep enough and the extractor has not got a grip and spun out because the end of it could not wind in far enough. :) Have a go with a metabo drill by the way the 18v has a pulse function that is great for starting small pilot holes or going through tile e.t.c. :)
I'm working on getting the oil dipstick tube bolt removed because I can't remove the head on that side without removing it. It was originally e-torx but my inexperienced and lazy self tried a couple things to avoid buying a Torx set and it got rounded to where it seems to be hex now -- a 6mm hex actually fits on it snug. I don't have a tap wrench because I cancelled my tap and die set to save that money for parts I needed, but hopefully it'll still come out with an adjustable wrench without breaking as long as I stay careful since I don't have the tap wrench to maintain a safe and even force better.
Not only is it easy to break the extractor, it’s easy to break the center drill! Both are because of bending stress that comes with doing it by hand. If your hand wobbles when the small part of the drill is all the way in, it can snap. There’s another kind of center drill called a “spotting drill” that looks like a countersink. It won’t break that way. The extractor will also break under too much bending stress, which is hard to avoid when you are using a spanner wrench. If you have a tap wrench, the bending stress is much less. Much greater chance of success if you can put the work in a lathe, drill press or other machine, but we don’t have much choice with broken studs!
Awesome video... Please tell me what size that bolt was? I have 14mm broken bolt stud in my car's sway bar bushing bracket, so what size of extractor or easy out do I need ? and what size of drill bit do I need? also shouldn't it be a left hand drill bit?
This was only a small bolt, perhaps a M6 I made this video a few weeks back which might help- ruclips.net/video/_R1b8niX13w/видео.html A left hand drill bit is preferred, I would start with say a 6mm and if that does not extract it try a 10mm, if that does not work there is a high chance that the stud extractor will not work, so drilling out the entire stud and re-tapping the hole might be the only option.
Had been trying to get out the end of a separated Price Pfister avante style shower cartridge, with no success...until I saw your vid and used a screw extractor with needle nosed vice grips to hold and pull from the end of the screw extractor. Thanks!
I would advise against the use of the centre drill to start the hole... these bits are designed to only be used in a lathe tailstock & the tips are EXTREMELY fragile... don't ask me how I know 😒 As a machinist of 25 years experience, I can tell u the tip will be very difficult, if not if impossible, to pick out & don't even think of drilling it with a cobalt bit as the hard tip will deflect the cobalt bit towards the softer surrounding metal... I start with a light centre punch as u did in the vid ... then wack a good centre dot when you are happy its fairly well centred... Good vid man keep up the good work on a great channel 😎👍
I like how you're honest about the success rate on these things. Many years ago I had a pretty bad experience where the extractor broke off in the hole making it impossible to drill out. That left a bad taste in my mouth. But now I have a small job for one, and maybe I'll try it again. Very good vid and I like your accent!
+rwsmith29456 Thanks, I try to be as honest as possible in all videos. I have had mixed results with these, I remember doing a job on site when I was an apprentice and the guy I was working with said I had no chance of getting a 1/4 UNC rusted snapped off bolt out using a screw extractor, but I managed it on the first attempt. I was as surprised as he was!I'm glad you like my accent as many people can't understand me LOLThanks for the comment
Any idea what's best to drill chrome molybdenum extractor piece. Just snapped it trying to remove a stud from my motorbike exhaust and not i can't figure out what i need to drill into the extractor piece its bloody solid!
Great accent! But anyone with a UK accent sounds more intelligent to us here in the U.S..- On a side note, its good to see y'all are embracing U.S. football! Why do we wear padding in our game? Simple, we're crazy, not stupid! I kid of course. I love rugby. Keep the videos coming! You're great!
Thanks for this inspires confidence (not least from one Yorkshireman to another). The devil is in the detail ie centre punch first and also tap in the extractor firmly before turning. I have a similar 10mm steel bolt shaft to remove from an Audi alloy wishbone (brake hose mounting plate retaining bolt) that simply twisted the head off like butter. Do you suggest also soaking in penetrating fluid 2-3 days before making the extraction and maybe just after the bolt is drilled so the fluid can get to the threads from the inside. Cheers
Yes, penetrating fluid can help as can a little heat but you have to be very careful when removing broken studs/bolts from alloy's as the alloy is very soft. I'd try gently heating it with a blowtorch, then let it cool fully before attempting to remove it.
Thanks, I needed that. But question. Did you use a left-handed drill bit? If so, which way did you spin it? Or did you use a right-handed drill bit? If so, which way did you spin it? Which is better when using an extractor? Sorry for all the questions. New at this and with rust, corrosion, and age--me nuts are going bad!
No, I used a right-handed drill bit, so that rotates to the right if you are behind the drill (the drill should be in forwards) If you use a left-handed drill bit you need to put the drill in reverse. Here's an old video that I made about left-handed drill bits- ruclips.net/video/FYvaPbX1sT4/видео.html Removing bolts when they are rusty, is always hard work! Thanks for the comment 👍
I’m struggling to drill out old exhaust studs, your drill piece made cutting into that bolt look easy! Do you recommend any specific drill pieces if tried titanium makita ones and it’s. A nightmare
The bolt might have hardened with the heating and cooling cycles, making it almost impossible to drill. A diamond coated hole saw will work, but it is very time consuming. ruclips.net/video/7JCfEMrCjhc/видео.html You could try a solid carbide drill bit, but they are very brittle and can break, if not careful. Best of luck with it
Can u plz help! I have broken the extractor in the stripped screw and seems nothing is working now to remove the broken extractor nor the screw. Can you suggest something please.? Thanks
Try a Tungsten TIP only drill, I have used these to remove a broken screw extractor in the past. By the way I did not break it off in there, the job came to me that way. If the Tungsten drill does not work then you may have to try EDM, (Electric Discharge Machining) also called spark erosion. An Engine Reconditioning Shop may have this facility, or a engineering firm could be worh asking. Cheers from John.
I had this with m8 dome headed bolts in my motorbike rearsets. The steel bolts seem to have bonded with the aluminum rearset positioning base. The extractor kit wouldn't shift them and I ended up drlling the heads off and using mole grips on the stumps. The problem was the bond was stronger than the metal and the extractor just striped out the bolt's metal after initially biting.
Hi there, do you know if they make these screw extractors in 12" long? I have this problem with my 80 qt mixer and can't find the extension nor the long extractor. Please help. Thanks!
I've used multi-purpose drill bits before, they are okay but not brilliant on metal etc. You can't beat dedicated drill bits for metal. It's not something I would consider buying as they are aimed more at people that don't have much of a clue about DIY LOL. Thanks for the comment
When you have broken studs or bolts in places like a cylinder head or engine block you must heat the stud prior to extracting it. These parts of the engine are always under extreme heat and extreme cold constantly going from hot to cold not to mention rust might have set in. Therefore you must heat it, in order for it to come out easier. I minimizes chance that your extractor will end up breaking inside the bolt or stud.
I have a (guessing) stainless steel stud inside a hex nut with round cap on its head that I broke by overtorque for the love of the queen my drill bits fail to bite and drill into that SS stud thats inside the nut. I didn't use any oils and I only have loads of used motor oil. do you think that I need a specific material for the drill bits or use some of that motor oil?
What is the smaller size bolt available ? Will it work with by your method to remove the damage part ? I have a similar situation with a 2.5 mm screw damaged lock bolt. Please advise sir.
These do not normally work with small bolts like that, perhaps the Micro-Grabit will work- ruclips.net/video/q6gehydy70k/видео.html&t Or a left handed drill bit.
do you have to take the head off the bolt before trying the easy out? i have a allen/hex bolt that has rounded out and no other methods are working but the head is still attached. Is it the same process as shown here for a bolt that is not broken?
If anyone going to attemp what he do then dont tap your stud extractor or bolt extractor or whatever too hard cause if the extractor breaks it will be a hell of a day to remove it, if it snap flush with the bolt ur going to replace the part that u snap your extractor in
I just went out to buy an easy out set (Extractor Set) do to someone else s carelessness I have two studs on my snowblower exhaust. Thanks for the video.
Hi, Thanks for the comment. Each video I make represents the title of the video I make, this video shows how to use an easy out/screw extractor. I have made more videos on removing broken bolts/studs, which can be seen here- Remove a broken bolt using a left handed drill bit Removing a broken bolt using a welder
The centre drill- ruclips.net/video/_uS_8D2K64A/видео.html We use these a lot on site to get holes started, but apparently they are designed for use in a lathe only and we should be using stub drills. Thanks for the comment
From the searching I did online, some people stated that the truck bed bolts had Loc Tite on them. Would I have to heat up the bolt, then drill in into the bolt as you did in the video or is there specific steps to take into account?
I'd use a left handed drill bit to do the drilling. There's been a number of times the drill bit ended up catching and pulling it out... And if it catches going clockwise, as you saw, it drills it in further, complicating the problem.
I have a counter sunk stainless screw with Allen head. I have used penatrine and it won't budge, the Allen head has now stripped. how would you suggest I remove? the bolt is about an M6 thread. Thanks
+Jacob Inglis If you have a welder I would try welding a nut on the top of it. We do this all the time on site- but with larger countersink bolts. It might work- it might not. If not you could try drilling it out, preferably with a left handed drill bit. ruclips.net/video/aRrz-cphBY4/видео.html ruclips.net/video/FYvaPbX1sT4/видео.html
I have a wall outlet I was trying to replace the cover on, it's one of the middle screw ones, and I was putting the screw back in when I tightened it a bit too much and the head just broke off completely with the screw body still inside the central hole in the middle between the two plugs. Would this still be safe to do?
No, I would not attempt anything until the electricity is isolated at the consumer unit/fuse board. It is unlikely that you will be able to use an easy out on such a small diameter screw, perhaps the best option would be to remove the outlet from the wall, then try to grip the screw with vice grips etc. Thanks for the comment
It might do. The problem with screw extractors is that they are tapered, so there is a tendency for them to make the original bolt expand slightly. A bolt might be a better option, but I would use a steel socket head bolt as they have a higher tensile strength than a hex head bolt.
Ultimate Handyman I have a sheered off brake bleed nipple and I'm trying to work out whether to send them off or try it myself. But I guess you can't comment on that over the interwebs.
Oh my! Thank you so much! I just watched the video on how to do it wrong and almost wrecked the bolt or screw actually I'm working with but I got it out. Thank you very much. Mine never came with drill bits but I just had a little drill bit so it worked
Cheers mate. Do they work on left handed thread studs too? Got a jammed and rounded off blade retaining bolt on my lawn mower.... pain in the proverbial...
I have a couple of rounded of t40 screws holding my car seats down. Would these work for them do you think? Im trying to get my seats out for heated seat installation
It depends. Screw extractors work if you have the room, but in tight situations, they are almost useless. This might give you some ideas- ruclips.net/video/WDOWPekMX44/видео.html Good luck with it ;-)
@@ultimatehandyman Hi mate Thanks for the reply. There is plenty of room. The torx screw is holding the rails of the car seat down. Ill buy some and give them a go! Thanks mate.
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We do not often give praise or thanks to those who make our lives much easier .
Thank You.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Thank you! 12 years after posting this, helped me get out a rounded allan bolt from a shower handle
Thanks for posting the video. I checked it out and you were not at all mis-leading. Any mechanic worthy of his craft will make intelligent decisions about when to use what tools. Others will simply criticize. There are many who will benefit from your video. Well done.
Orville Boutilier Wow, 7 year old comment with no likes or replies! That’s ‘cos it’s true! 👍🏻
Even at 70 years of age, I can still pick up a piece of useful information. Center drills. How have I missed them all my life? I do know that it is almost impossible to keep a regular drill bit in the center of what you are drilling. But, with the start a center drill gives, it is no longer impossible.
Thanks a bunch.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment ;-)
They work great... I got mine from Drill Pro for very little money and they do work
Never thought of using a centre drill actually, might give that a go! I usually use a 3mm drill but carefully centre punch first. Getting it central is the key, no matter how it goes!
@@andygilbert1877 are these center drills, countersunk?
Great video. I just bought a set of these extractors which also came with a set of matching drill bits. However there were no instructions and so - being a complete novice to this - I wasn't quite sure how I was supposed to use this properly. Your video made it very clear. Thanks!
This is the most informative video I've seen on this method. So the key is to drill a slightly smaller hole, hammer in, then use a wrench to slowly unscrew. The complaints on DIY sites are littered with inexperienced users believing just using an electric drill in reverse will do the job, then complaining it's "useless".
You would be surprised at the number of people that have mentioned in other videos that you don't need to knock the extractor in the hole! I've always knocked it in, as it tells you to in the instructions 😉
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thanks for making the video. I was successful at removing a broken exhaust manifold stud out of the head. It was my first time using one of these extractors.
I'm glad the video helped.
Well done for getting that out, exhaust bolts are probably the most difficult types of broken bolts to remove!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Man, I could kiss ya! 9 year old video and still works perfectly. Using your video, I extracted a broken bolt out of the skid plate frame on my dirt bike. It was a nearly irreplaceable part. Thank you so much! Let me know if you want the pic. I am pretty proud of it considering it was my first try ever.
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
Wow excellent video!
I have a broken stud that's been on my cylinder head cover for a year now and thanks to ur video I've gained the knowledge to go about fixing this issue. Thanks alot man!
Did u get it out
Thank you so much. I have a set of easy-outs, and a shower cold-control I can't get unscrewed. I now know how to use the tools my late hubby left. I really appreciate the bit at the end that explains the science.
Spray it with AeroKroil then wait a hour then set the drill clutch to low and put it in reverse the impacting action of the drill will help remove the part.
Yeah, I broke the Screw Extractor in the Bolt.... Now what?
God has forsaken you I’m sorry
You're fucked, that's what. Don't worry, I've done it. It's a rite of passage.
Doh
Same sold the car…
The old adage is it can’t be tight if it’s liquid
Thanks heaps. I had a grub screw in a tap mixer fitting to take out. The Allen key slot was rounded out so i just purchased an easy out kit and followed your instructions, worked a treat.
Finally. I think I had to watch 10 nonsensical awful tutorial videos that simply introduced the problem then skipped to the end, before I found this wonderful video that ACTUALLY SHOWS HOW TO DO IT. Thank you sir for your knowledge and demonstration
I'm glad the video helped ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Tut tut-an engineer using an adjustable spanner-Like you I have had mixed results when it works-fantastic, you're the greatest-when the extractor snaps flush with the work,well you know the feeling!
Use a tap handle.
As soon as the drill turned the broken bolt/stud I knew you were going to be successful. When it gets a lot harder is when the bolt/stud is rusted/corroded into the hole. That makes things more difficult. I agree too that those "easy-outs" are about a 50-50 proposition. Glad you were successful, Mate!
Thanks man. Japanese motorcycles are notorious for broken bolts. May I also add that it helps using a torch for direct heat to loosen up the threads a bit as well.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Thanks, I hadn't used one in a while because I experienced failures most of the time with "easy-outs." I need to extract a 3" long deck screw that gave me the middle finger and bound up while trying to remove it. It not only wouldn't budge with my drill's reverse action, it of course (the wood screw gods are always pissed with me) stripped the phillips detent - completely. So, I'm left at the mercy of a screw extractor. I needed a refresher course and your video is an excellent one, mate. I was heartened to hear your chagrin with the "won't work most of the time" - made me feel less of a boob! OK, off to see if my luck has turned. thanks again, cheers, Bill
Decking screws are incredibly difficult to remove. I once built a deck and needed to remove one of the boards just a couple of days later, every singe screw head sheared off! Good luck with it ;-)
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman I'm beginning to think that cutting a slot in the head is the main option for difficult wood screws.
Thanks, used this years ago but good to see it being demonstrated. I have a need to use my old tool to help my son
+Sandor Karl
You are welcome ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Decided i needed center drill bits after watching this. Its as if i was missing an entire step that makes the process so much easier.
They are really useful ;-)
Thanks for the comment 👍
You have shown the ideal situation here, where the bolt/stud is not seized in! You might want to consider showing a vid with a more complex extraction (seized in) and the problems of a broken easyout in the stud, the way they come to me when someone has already had a go and stuffed it completely. The one shown I would have wound out with the centre punch in a minute or so. Easyout is a misleading term in reality. Cheers from John.
give this guy a 24 pack of beer
That just happened to me, the extractor bit broke off and im looking for a way to fix it. I dont know what to do
I've watched like, 10 bolt extraction videos tonight. They're so satisfying! Like yeah! Take that bolt! Ha!
LOL
Thanks for the comment
Have you ever used left handed drill bits? I have a set that I only use to drill out broken bolts. That way, if the broken bolt moves, it is coming out, not going in deeper. I started doing this when I had one go in as this one did, but refused to come out. As you can imagine, this made a bad situation worse.
TIP: If you break off a drill bit, Or screw extractor, in the hole, Heat it until red hot, then let cool to room temperature, repeat, then drill out. The heat will soften the broken piece, making it drillable.
I have used left handed drill bits, they are very useful-
Remove a broken bolt using a left handed drill bit
Thanks for the tip about heating up the broken piece ;-)
How do you heat just the extractor bit and not the bolt it is stuck in?
K
I like the heat idea unfortunately the machinery on the operating floor wont allow us to do that.flammable material
That should have been used
I didn't need the extractor. I drilled an uneven, ragged hole about half inch inside the bolt. Then I took a huge screwdriver and hammered it inside the hole. Then I took vise grips, and turned the huge screwdriver with the vise grips attached to the end of the screwdriver. It was very easy. Thank you for your videos.
👍
Great video. My luck is the broken off bolt is usually rusted to surrounding metal. It was great to see someone actually have success using an easy out. I'm going to have to purchase a center drill as that is a critical part of the process.
If the screw extractor doesn't work on a screw that's exposed and not broken off or flush, rather than go the oft-repeated route of taking a Dremel and cutting a slot for a standard flat screwdriver (that still may strip), here's a less frustrating and more fool-proof method:
Take a grinder (full-size or a grinding bit on a Dremel, or a file if you don't have one) and flatten two sides of the screw head on opposite sides. Then grab it with vice grips and unscrew it. The flats will let you get a better grip without it slipping like it would with a round head. You'll get a lot more leverage on a stuck screw with vice grips than you would with a screwdriver and it's a lot less likely to strip again than a slot for a standard screwdriver might.
Thanks for the comment
Would this work with the bolt having a lot or rust in the threads or can I torch the bolt ? Worried about the heat warping the threads
I love the subtle differences between traditional English and American English, anti-clockwise vs counter-clockwise
also spanner=wrench
Thanks for the reply; A right angle drill could be my only solution, for now I have taken the chance to assemble the pump back and drove the car a few miles, it seem to be holding ok but I do know if that pump starts leaking I will have no other option than to get that broken bolt one way or another... I too saw some other videos and tips about using a torch... I will keep you informed and thanks again for sharing your tips!!!!!
Thank you for this - I have a V12 engine project to learn with and 3 broken studs to get out ! I'm confident now I can can progress.
You are welcome
Best of luck with it ;-)
Thanks for posting the vid. We had a snapped bolt stuck in a Subaru WRX head. Googled and this video came up and was very clear.
We used my mill to keep the precision as the bolt was only a m8. We also used cutting fluid. After a nice tap of the ezyout into the bolt ... out she came with no dramas. Thanks again.
HybridNz Well done, I'm glad you fixed it easily.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
what if the easy out breaks off inside?
Thanks man. This dude at best buy told me that I needed a screw extractor to open the area designated for a hdd & I didn't know what the hell he was talking about! Thanks to you, now I know. Cheers!
+Kareem Moye You are welcome.Thanks for the comment ;-)
Good video
Thanks
I have 5 mm scre broken in an assembly and its depth is less than 1/2 inch
How to remove?
Worked like a charm on a bolt that broke off when putting on my transmission pan. Much appreciated!
Appreciate the concept here but you've faked one for the video - show us one that is bottomed out or seized and corroded - generally found easy outs in smaller sizes to be near to useless - generally for serious broken bolts/studs spline drive style extracors or good old drill & retap are required. The very first thing to try is the good old tap around with a centre punch - which would have worked in this instance -demonstrated by the fact the thread 'ran' to the bottom during the drilling !
Thanks bro. Your tutorial is really a life saver. I just removed a broken bolt inside my motorcycle engine mounting. Thanks again.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Now onto learning the difference between a shifter and a spanner :D
A small adjustable spanner 😁
I just had to thank you for this video! I accidentally broke a valve cover bolt off leaving the remaining screw in the top of the head. I wend and bought a drill bit and ease out and presto.. It came right out. Thanks again!!
Dude I did this yesterday x2 man it’s an bitch
@@moekhan95 I'm trying to do it today, but the easy out just won't fucking hammer in, how'd you do it?
Perfect . Made a difficult problem easy. Thanks
+George Goehl
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment ;-)
If the screw was tighten you would be fucked up.
Thank you so much I drill in to the bolts but a bit of an angle now on my way to buy extractor set.Thanks for your video helped a lot!
Update I use a drill bit to drill hole in the middle only to see the bolt started to turned clock wise,I then inclined the drill bit and the bolt came out about 3mm I then use my cutting flat pliers and the broken bolt came out happily ever after!
What if the bolt was used with "Loctite" do you follow the same procedure, or is the a different technique??
Same but you want too heat the bolt with a torch till its glowing to weaken the metal and the loctite
Heats the only way
Going to have to give this one a try tomorrow. Was putting the exhaust mani back on when the very last stud snapped off :(
MrSoupMonster Exhaust studs are one of the hardest studs to remove because the heating up and cooling down.
Best of luck with it ;-)
@ Garry Gemmell
German tools are generally the best available. I think my screw extractors are made by Teng, which are okay for the money.
Ultimate Handyman
Worked like a charm, saved a cylinder head. Props sir
I’m glad you found the video useful
Thanks for the comment 👍
Oh wow did you break a bolt on your cylinder head....Yikes I did too! All 5 of my valve cover bolts!
What do you do if the broken bolt is extremely tight?
Cuss and pray
Part out
Get a tap and die set. Then completely drill it out and tap it again.
Im stuck on a 1999 taho bolt for the starter smfh😅
Yes I too appreciate your honest direct approach. Am trying to remove a screw that is holding the last of my old shower door frame into the wall. It is making me crazy! The phillips head top of screw got stripped and I have now tried extractor kits from 2 different companies and still no luck. The first (the "Grabbit Pro" tool), had not enough directions for me to even understand how it works. Wish I would have seen this video first ! thank you.
Left handed drill bits, find them at Snapon, Matco, etc., not Home Depot. They can be a life saver.
I'm watching this video because I have to use easyouts for the first time you do good explaining things
Good luck with the easy outs ;-)
Thanks for the comment
In my experience, these are the most disappointing handyman tool there is, and are generally derided by tradesmen. They only work for studs or bolts which are free enough to turn that you could grind a slot in them with a Dremel and wind them out with a screwdriver.
If the broken stud is hard to turn, these will just expand it more tightly into the hole, At this point, any further torque will simply break the hardened easyout.
You will now spend easily five times as much getting a tradesman machinist/welder to do a difficult extraction job.
Here's my recommendation: either take it to a machine shop, or (if you have the skills, but don't have a TIG aka GTAW welding plant): Make a guide jig which you can clamp to the part in order to drill an accurate pilot hole in the middle of the broken stud. If you can get your hands on left handed bits, so much the better, otherwise, simply take a couple of suitably sized conventional bits and sharpen them (and run them) backwards. Don't worry about getting the geometry perfect: if they grab, so much the better. The final one of these drill bits (if needed) should be the largest you can run into the hole without removing the thread crests of the female (tapped) hole. The remnants will almost certainly run themselves out like a helicoil, connected to the stub at the bottom. If not, drill right through, then coax the coil out with a scriber and some needle nose pliers.
Gottenhimfella check out the videos from JerrysBrokenTap channel he has interesting edm tap removal videos
have you ever tried heating up the broken bolt with a torch and melting some wax into the threads? works everytime for me when using screw extractors. the wax penetrates and lubes up corroded threads 10x better than any pb blaster or wd-40
+Beeroxin
I have heated up broken bolts before but I have never used wax.
What kind of wax do you use, just normal candle wax?
Thanks for the comment
+Ultimate Handyman Beeswax is the one for the job. If you can't find it Toilet seal rings have beeswax. I think a more modern approach would be to soak it in Kroil.
+rwsmith29456
Thanks ;-)
Good point that folks may have missed in that video is you made sure the hole drilled was deep enough before trying the extractor.
Have seen two lads now not drill the hole deep enough and the extractor has not got a grip and spun out because the end of it could not wind in far enough. :)
Have a go with a metabo drill by the way the 18v has a pulse function that is great for starting small pilot holes or going through tile e.t.c. :)
If you would have had a left handed bit, you'd of walked that bad boy right out. ; ))
You are right-
Remove a broken bolt using a left handed drill bit
pretty sure he said that as one of his first point...but thanks for repeating it...
He’s showing the purpose of the tool. It’s an example.
Left hand bits dont always work
great video thanks. I have this problem on my honda motorcycle. 1975 so i can't get replacement parts either :(
When having sex, never forget to wear safety glasses, helmet and gloves...
Don't forget the easy out
Jesper Hansen. What's wrong with you guys and your foul minds, you make me sick!!!
Don't forget respiratory and face shield
And never attempt w\out apron
Hey kid you could put your eye out.
By far the best method to use, to remove bolts and screws of this sort.
Thanks for the comment
I'm working on getting the oil dipstick tube bolt removed because I can't remove the head on that side without removing it. It was originally e-torx but my inexperienced and lazy self tried a couple things to avoid buying a Torx set and it got rounded to where it seems to be hex now -- a 6mm hex actually fits on it snug. I don't have a tap wrench because I cancelled my tap and die set to save that money for parts I needed, but hopefully it'll still come out with an adjustable wrench without breaking as long as I stay careful since I don't have the tap wrench to maintain a safe and even force better.
Not only is it easy to break the extractor, it’s easy to break the center drill! Both are because of bending stress that comes with doing it by hand. If your hand wobbles when the small part of the drill is all the way in, it can snap. There’s another kind of center drill called a “spotting drill” that looks like a countersink. It won’t break that way.
The extractor will also break under too much bending stress, which is hard to avoid when you are using a spanner wrench. If you have a tap wrench, the bending stress is much less.
Much greater chance of success if you can put the work in a lathe, drill press or other machine, but we don’t have much choice with broken studs!
👍
Thank you for uploading i was able to get a broken screw inside a yoke and now i can get back to jeeping !
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment
Quick random heads up. The drill bits and jigsaw blades from Aldi of all places are brilliant. I mean pro use brilliant not just for D.I.Y
wayne burgess
Thanks, I'll look out for them the next time I am passing ;-)
Cool I just grab a few packs whenever they are in. For everyone I know lol
The patience and skill of a real pro! Great demo!
Thanks for the comment
Thanks you
Very much
Your method worked
I am supper happy
A bolt on my water pump broke
I thought I was done
You save me brother
Glad it helped 👍
This one was too easy. :)) Mostly we have very hard time to get it out. Nice video. Thank you
You're welcome. In fact I have actually bought a set of extractors now and that's thanks to your video. So cheers!
Awesome video... Please tell me what size that bolt was? I have 14mm broken bolt stud in my car's sway bar bushing bracket, so what size of extractor or easy out do I need ? and what size of drill bit do I need? also shouldn't it be a left hand drill bit?
This was only a small bolt, perhaps a M6
I made this video a few weeks back which might help- ruclips.net/video/_R1b8niX13w/видео.html
A left hand drill bit is preferred, I would start with say a 6mm and if that does not extract it try a 10mm, if that does not work there is a high chance that the stud extractor will not work, so drilling out the entire stud and re-tapping the hole might be the only option.
Super helpful video! I broke a bolt on my motorcycle and had no clue what to do. Thanks for the video & explanation.
+Lauren Smith You are welcomeThanks for the comment ;-)
Had been trying to get out the end of a separated Price Pfister avante style shower cartridge, with no success...until I saw your vid and used a screw extractor with needle nosed vice grips to hold and pull from the end of the screw extractor. Thanks!
+Kevin Pullman
I'm glad the video helped ;-)
Thanks for the comment
I would advise against the use of the centre drill to start the hole... these bits are designed to only
be used in a lathe tailstock & the tips are EXTREMELY fragile... don't ask me how I know 😒
As a machinist of 25 years experience, I can tell u the tip will be very difficult, if not if impossible, to pick out &
don't even think of drilling it with a cobalt bit as the hard tip will deflect the cobalt bit towards the softer surrounding metal...
I start with a light centre punch as u did in the vid ... then wack a good centre dot when you are happy its fairly well centred...
Good vid man keep up the good work on a great channel 😎👍
Thanks for the comment
I like how you're honest about the success rate on these things. Many years ago I had a pretty bad experience where the extractor broke off in the hole making it impossible to drill out. That left a bad taste in my mouth. But now I have a small job for one, and maybe I'll try it again. Very good vid and I like your accent!
+rwsmith29456 Thanks, I try to be as honest as possible in all videos. I have had mixed results with these, I remember doing a job on site when I was an apprentice and the guy I was working with said I had no chance of getting a 1/4 UNC rusted snapped off bolt out using a screw extractor, but I managed it on the first attempt. I was as surprised as he was!I'm glad you like my accent as many people can't understand me LOLThanks for the comment
What’s that tap tool called you used at the beginning ?
@@ultimatehandyman .
@@dmaygaming what time in the video was it?
One of the best video on RUclips
Thanks for the comment
Any idea what's best to drill chrome molybdenum extractor piece. Just snapped it trying to remove a stud from my motorbike exhaust and not i can't figure out what i need to drill into the extractor piece its bloody solid!
Great accent! But anyone with a UK accent sounds more intelligent to us here in the U.S..- On a side note, its good to see y'all are embracing U.S. football! Why do we wear padding in our game? Simple, we're crazy, not stupid! I kid of course. I love rugby. Keep the videos coming! You're great!
Thanks for your help, do i need to re-thread the hole? great video
Thanks for this inspires confidence (not least from one Yorkshireman to another). The devil is in the detail ie centre punch first and also tap in the extractor firmly before turning. I have a similar 10mm steel bolt shaft to remove from an Audi alloy wishbone (brake hose mounting plate retaining bolt) that simply twisted the head off like butter. Do you suggest also soaking in penetrating fluid 2-3 days before making the extraction and maybe just after the bolt is drilled so the fluid can get to the threads from the inside. Cheers
Yes, penetrating fluid can help as can a little heat but you have to be very careful when removing broken studs/bolts from alloy's as the alloy is very soft. I'd try gently heating it with a blowtorch, then let it cool fully before attempting to remove it.
Thanks, I needed that. But question. Did you use a left-handed drill bit? If so, which way did you spin it? Or did you use a right-handed drill bit? If so, which way did you spin it? Which is better when using an extractor? Sorry for all the questions. New at this and with rust, corrosion, and age--me nuts are going bad!
No, I used a right-handed drill bit, so that rotates to the right if you are behind the drill (the drill should be in forwards)
If you use a left-handed drill bit you need to put the drill in reverse.
Here's an old video that I made about left-handed drill bits- ruclips.net/video/FYvaPbX1sT4/видео.html
Removing bolts when they are rusty, is always hard work!
Thanks for the comment 👍
I’m struggling to drill out old exhaust studs, your drill piece made cutting into that bolt look easy! Do you recommend any specific drill pieces if tried titanium makita ones and it’s. A nightmare
The bolt might have hardened with the heating and cooling cycles, making it almost impossible to drill.
A diamond coated hole saw will work, but it is very time consuming.
ruclips.net/video/7JCfEMrCjhc/видео.html
You could try a solid carbide drill bit, but they are very brittle and can break, if not careful.
Best of luck with it
Can u plz help! I have broken the extractor in the stripped screw and seems nothing is working now to remove the broken extractor nor the screw. Can you suggest something please.? Thanks
Try a Tungsten TIP only drill, I have used these to remove a broken screw extractor in the past. By the way I did not break it off in there, the job came to me that way. If the Tungsten drill does not work then you may have to try EDM, (Electric Discharge Machining) also called spark erosion. An Engine Reconditioning Shop may have this facility, or a engineering firm could be worh asking. Cheers from John.
PS that one was in an AUDI Aluminium Head, Not the kind of thing you can go heating much to try and soften the hardened Extractor.
Excellent video as always. Very useful and informative, keep up the great work.
Thanks 👍
I had this with m8 dome headed bolts in my motorbike rearsets. The steel bolts seem to have bonded with the aluminum rearset positioning base. The extractor kit wouldn't shift them and I ended up drlling the heads off and using mole grips on the stumps. The problem was the bond was stronger than the metal and the extractor just striped out the bolt's metal after initially biting.
Yes, that is a common problem. These are very hit and miss and often don’t work as intended.
Glad you got them out 👍
Glad i stumbled on you video! I almost ruined my project! Thanks for making an easy to understand video :-)
Hi there, do you know if they make these screw extractors in 12" long? I have this problem with my 80 qt mixer and can't find the extension nor the long extractor. Please help. Thanks!
I have never seen any long series ones but you might be able to get some sort of extension to fit the one you intend using.
Have you ever used drill all drill bits? There's alot of mixed reviews online about them. Any chance of a video on them in the future?
I've used multi-purpose drill bits before, they are okay but not brilliant on metal etc.
You can't beat dedicated drill bits for metal.
It's not something I would consider buying as they are aimed more at people that don't have much of a clue about DIY LOL.
Thanks for the comment
You've got some mighty sharp drillbits there mate!
When you have broken studs or bolts in places like a cylinder head or engine block you must heat the stud prior to extracting it. These parts of the engine are always under extreme heat and extreme cold constantly going from hot to cold not to mention rust might have set in. Therefore you must heat it, in order for it to come out easier. I minimizes chance that your extractor will end up breaking inside the bolt or stud.
I have a (guessing) stainless steel stud inside a hex nut with round cap on its head that I broke by overtorque
for the love of the queen my drill bits fail to bite and drill into that SS stud thats inside the nut. I didn't use any oils and I only have loads of used motor oil. do you think that I need a specific material for the drill bits or use some of that motor oil?
Cobalt drill bits are normally good on stainless. I would give them a try 👍
What is the smaller size bolt available ? Will it work with by your method to remove the damage part ? I have a similar situation with a 2.5 mm screw damaged lock bolt. Please advise sir.
These do not normally work with small bolts like that, perhaps the Micro-Grabit will work-
ruclips.net/video/q6gehydy70k/видео.html&t
Or a left handed drill bit.
do you have to take the head off the bolt before trying the easy out? i have a allen/hex bolt that has rounded out and no other methods are working but the head is still attached. Is it the same process as shown here for a bolt that is not broken?
No. You only use an easy out if the head has sheared off. This video might help
ruclips.net/video/WDOWPekMX44/видео.html
Thanks for the comment 👍
Perfect demonstration of using such a tool! Cheers mate! 😌
No problem 👍
If anyone going to attemp what he do then dont tap your stud extractor or bolt extractor or whatever too hard cause if the extractor breaks it will be a hell of a day to remove it, if it snap flush with the bolt ur going to replace the part that u snap your extractor in
You did a wonderful job. If life was only that easy.
Thanks for the comment 👍
I just went out to buy an easy out set (Extractor Set) do to someone else s carelessness I have two studs on my snowblower exhaust. Thanks for the video.
+Peter North
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Thanks for this video. Why do you mention a left handed drill bit, but you do not use it as an example in your video?
Hi,
Thanks for the comment.
Each video I make represents the title of the video I make, this video shows how to use an easy out/screw extractor.
I have made more videos on removing broken bolts/studs, which can be seen here-
Remove a broken bolt using a left handed drill bit
Removing a broken bolt using a welder
I liked that really fine tip drill you started out with. Never seen one of those.
The centre drill- ruclips.net/video/_uS_8D2K64A/видео.html
We use these a lot on site to get holes started, but apparently they are designed for use in a lathe only and we should be using stub drills.
Thanks for the comment
Brilliant. Thanks mate.
From the searching I did online, some people stated that the truck bed bolts had Loc Tite on them. Would I have to heat up the bolt, then drill in into the bolt as you did in the video or is there specific steps to take into account?
I'd use a left handed drill bit to do the drilling. There's been a number of times the drill bit ended up catching and pulling it out... And if it catches going clockwise, as you saw, it drills it in further, complicating the problem.
Thanks for the comment 👍
I have a counter sunk stainless screw with Allen head. I have used penatrine and it won't budge, the Allen head has now stripped. how would you suggest I remove? the bolt is about an M6 thread. Thanks
also it's very very tight! when I cracked the others it was a loud crack.
+Jacob Inglis
If you have a welder I would try welding a nut on the top of it. We do this all the time on site- but with larger countersink bolts. It might work- it might not. If not you could try drilling it out, preferably with a left handed drill bit.
ruclips.net/video/aRrz-cphBY4/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/FYvaPbX1sT4/видео.html
I have a wall outlet I was trying to replace the cover on, it's one of the middle screw ones, and I was putting the screw back in when I tightened it a bit too much and the head just broke off completely with the screw body still inside the central hole in the middle between the two plugs. Would this still be safe to do?
No, I would not attempt anything until the electricity is isolated at the consumer unit/fuse board.
It is unlikely that you will be able to use an easy out on such a small diameter screw, perhaps the best option would be to remove the outlet from the wall, then try to grip the screw with vice grips etc.
Thanks for the comment
@Ultimate Handyman, would tapping a left handed thread and using a left handed bolt work better than a stud extractor?
It might do. The problem with screw extractors is that they are tapered, so there is a tendency for them to make the original bolt expand slightly.
A bolt might be a better option, but I would use a steel socket head bolt as they have a higher tensile strength than a hex head bolt.
Ultimate Handyman I have a sheered off brake bleed nipple and I'm trying to work out whether to send them off or try it myself. But I guess you can't comment on that over the interwebs.
Do you drill the initial holes clockwise or counterclockwise?
Oh my! Thank you so much! I just watched the video on how to do it wrong and almost wrecked the bolt or screw actually I'm working with but I got it out. Thank you very much. Mine never came with drill bits but I just had a little drill bit so it worked
Cheers mate. Do they work on left handed thread studs too? Got a jammed and rounded off blade retaining bolt on my lawn mower.... pain in the proverbial...
I have a couple of rounded of t40 screws holding my car seats down. Would these work for them do you think? Im trying to get my seats out for heated seat installation
It depends. Screw extractors work if you have the room, but in tight situations, they are almost useless.
This might give you some ideas- ruclips.net/video/WDOWPekMX44/видео.html
Good luck with it ;-)
@@ultimatehandyman Hi mate
Thanks for the reply. There is plenty of room. The torx screw is holding the rails of the car seat down. Ill buy some and give them a go! Thanks mate.