Just as a point of properties : -strength is resistance to deformation (bending, prying, etc.), this is applying a force essentially very slow were the steel has time enough to deform (move) internally if necessary -toughness is resistance to fracture (impact), this is applying a force so fast that the steel can not deform fast enough to absorb energy and so it will crack if necessary (if over loaded)
Outstanding work, all I could think when the tip broke was Damn, that's some nice grain structure. I'd recommend testing corrosion resistance as well which should be easy enough. Temper 5 or so types of steal. Leave one set outside (because people forget stuff) put one set in a pair of jeans with a brine soaked ham (to represent edc) and leave one set in a bedside drawer (because you always need that knife until a better one comes along) walk away for a month and see what you come back too. Just my two cents. A great video boss!
Once you leave the land of decent budget products you always enter the land of diminishing returns. You pay a shit-ton for that last little bit of quality. For the price of one Porsche 911 you can buy four Toyota Camrys.
profd65 what a shitty comparison. A Porsche 911 is a sports car that is beautifully manufactured, mid engine borderline super car. Compared to your grand mother’s Toyota Camry. Just because you cannot afford one does not mean it’s not worth the price
@@Connor-wf2zn I didn't say that a Porsche 911 isn't better than a Toyota Camry, shit for brains, but it's not four times as good as one. If you looked at cars as mere tools instead of as status symbols or props in hip hop videos, you would easily see this. And my ability or inability to afford a 911 has no affect on my thinking. Let's talk about what I can afford: I have a guitar I paid $800 for, and it definitely isn't twice as good as a $400 guitar--I know, because I also own a guitar I paid $400 for, and I've played many other guitars that cost $400, and many other guitars that cost $800 or more.
@@profd65 3V, 4V, Vanadis 4 Extra etc steels, actually ARE four times better than common 1095 etc steels. they have 4 times the edge retention, 4 times more toughness, more stain resistant and so on....Not ot mention the better fit and finish, better gandle ergos, better sheaths etc you get with a more expensive knife. It's simple, you get what you pay for.
@@greekveteran2715 It's simple, you're wrong. A Spyderco Delica isn't twice as good as an Ontario Rat with D2 steel. It might not be better than it at all. A Bark River Aurora II isn't three times as good as a Mora Garberg. I'd rather have the Aurora but no way it's three times as good. Now, the Benchmade Puukko comes in CPM-3V and costs more than the Garberg, but it probably is worth the extra money you pay. But the Puukko only costs $127.50 (versus $89.99 for the Garberg). The difference in price isn't huge, but the little bit extra you pay gets you superior steel and Benchmade's awesome warranty. As for CPM 3V being four times tougher than high carbon 1095--I very seriously doubt it. If your 1095 knife isn't robust enough for you, just make the blade a little thicker. The Becker BK2 is made out of 1095 Cro-Van, and that thing is a tank. Good luck trying to break it. The 1095 will definitely rust so you need to look after it. The1095 won't hold an edge long, but it's easy to sharpen.
Well done! You’ve gotten quite sophisticated in your knife builds compared to some of your earlier attempts. Very cool. Can’t wait to see the next step.
3 year old video but it just popped up for me. This video gave me a newfound respect for Mark Johnson of Vulcan Knives. He has built me two folders using Rex121 and a few more for other people. He had never even heard of the steel until I asked him if he was up to the challenge of building me a folder using it. He said it was quite a bit more difficult to work with than his usual 20cv but after watching this video I think he was downplaying how difficult it was, since Rex is a bit harder than 3v. If anyone is curious, both knives he made tested at 70 and 70.5hrc!
I've noticed 3V completely changes when cryo''ed in LN2 for 2 hours, Then hardened even more when Cryo'ed a second time over night, between tempers. It only gets worse on belts.
Maybe that's the delta heat treat "secret". Though I doubt there's much retained austenite to convert to untempered martensite after first temper, but it doesn't hurt.
Try some Vanadis 4 Extra, even Ballbearing steel can get better on both edge retention and edge stability, compared to CPM 3V. It's not overrrated but there are way better performers in my experience out there (all things be equal of course, 'cause other atributes like heat treatment, bevel geometries, etc, are far more important.)
Re: edge retention. If you want to eliminate a *little* bit of the subjectivity of your cardboard cutting, go have a look at Pete’s data on the Cedric and Ada channel. He has a link to his spreadsheets in almost every video description now; just pick any of his recent videos and look in the description. I didn’t see that he tested 1084, but given that he’s done just about every other steel(!) you can do some interpolation.
I like knifes because of their diversity or properties and uses. I rarely only have access to 1 knife that requires me to be super picky about that knife being perfect for every task. I do like balanced usefulness in a EDC knife, but life is full of compromises. Choose the ones that fit your needs.
3V is a great steel, but the heat treat as you show is a pain. I used wet silicon carbide belts to grind it after HT so I didn't have to keep dunking it in water. Stuff is totally remarkable, but my heat treater used an air blast to quench. That plate quench is probably why the tip broke. The heat treat is why it is very expensive. It is a very shock resisting steel, that's why it's tougher, the very high vanadium content makes a lot of V carbide which is harder than tungsten carbide. Any of the high vanadium steels will hold an edge very well, better than any other steel just about.
In regards to toughness, one thing to consider is long term use. Ed Schempp was one of the first makers for example to note that in Bladesports, a lot of steels can easily handle one competition, or even multiple but after awhile they will suffer catastrophic failure. This is why he preferred simple steels because they will outlast the life time of a user. I have seen knives last for days, even weeks of use and then suddenly just suffer gross failure, it is just an accumulation or growth of small micro-cracks. So even IF a steel can take a certain amount of use for low cycles (
@Star Gazer1212 Wood performance is a very different thing in many respects. It is mainly push cutting, and you want an edge which ideally wears very slow, no chipping surely. Try maybe W1, Super Blue, M2 or M4, make sure you get someone who hardens it in a sensible manner for wood cutting.
IMO the 3V still belongs to the category of "reasonable" super blade steels, not that crazy expensive with tons of Mo and V in it. Now the knife makers are simply promoting stuffs like M340 to get higher pricing on the product AND ignoring proper treatments to explore the potentials. Very educational video!
I love Bark Rivers 3V I have 3 blades in it. You’re right it’s hard to work with & they have a company that water jets and grinds the primary bevel, then another company that does the HT so it’s easier for them because they just do the final grinding and apply handles (which is still a lot of work). Have you considered elmax, S35VN, M390, Cru-Wear is a great steel.
As to that tip breaking I think as you already know I'm sure that was more blade geometry than failing steel . At 76 now i think the whole super steel quest is necessary for some my self no . I have zero problems with sharping a blade every now and then .most everything I own is either 440 -c , 01 ,1095 ,and my favorite is 1056 . I am not a small knife guy and most knives tend to lean toward the Bowie style it's my thing and I love them all .Thanks for all your hard work in looking for that perfect material but for me it's cost I simply can't see paying hundreds for a knife it's just not necessary for me but for some it is the quest for the newest thing and good for them it's there fun in life so be it go for it . Happy trails stay safe in the shop. Get some cement board over the insulation paper behind your oven and above . Stay safe
1056, wow, rarely heard of that. Usually its 5160 for that carbin content. A lower carbon steel made harder will be tougher than a high carbon steel made softer! And iron carbides add basically zero edge retention since its barely harder than fully hard eutectic steel. Spend the little carbides on chrome ones like in AEB-L, 12c27, 14c28n, or even trade it all for vanadium like with magnacut, but keep the volume low for fine carbides that keep the steel tough as possible.
I heard 1080 is forge steel and much easier to consistently heat treat than 1095 and then there is D2 which i find good for pretty much anything except diving but i guess its air quenched too - good basic carbon steel is awesome and works like a champ ---keep it simple and good Cheers
I tend to think that ninety five percent of the public could get by fine with another type of steel. Would be good to have a knife like that, good material, but considering all things, there's other options ! Thanks for sharing and take care. 👍
I think you're right. It makes sense to prioritize your wants and go for the top priority and maybe a "nice to have" characteristic, instead of all your wants in one knife as wonderful as that would be.
I've never seen this method of quenching before, thanks for demonstrating it. You did it in 3 seconds so it's viable, I think the max allowance for most Steel types for martensite transformation is 7-8 seconds. So anything under 8 will work.
3v is an air quenching steel. Plate quenching is usually only done with air quenching steel. Although with the right set up it can probably be done with some slow oil hardening steel like o1. It will not work with steels that have a very fast cooling curve needed to harden like 1095 or 1084 etc.🙂
@@OUTDOORS55 Oh okay, so this is a type of air hardening technique, thanks for the info. I think I own a few air hardened steel blades, but I've never attempted it myself. I actually assumed you just put them in a air vacuum or cold air near ice. I would never have guessed plates were used to transfer the heat and absorb it. pretty ingenious.
you might try 8670. its affordable, easy to heat treat and extremely tough. It doesnt rust instantly like that one alloy you had either. check out the baton test on the 8670 chef knife on Alpha Knife Supply.
These videos were awesome. I really want to get a great EDC fixed blade knife, but I'm so behind the times on what's out there. So I'm really glad to see your videos and I hope to see more, to try to figure out what I want in a fairly small EDC knife and how long I would have to save up for it. I may be disabled, but I'm not dead. Just low on money. Lol 🤣 I have love knives since I was 10 and learn the quickest way to lose interest in knives is to never have a good quality one, to see what a quality made knife feels like and what it can do. These new knives are just amazing. 😲
Go with Mora for a edc fixed blade. They are cheap enough so you don't stop yourself from actually using it in the "wrong" way, that's the point and why ALL working people use them in Sweden.
I’m a simple man. I see your videos I watch and hit like. Please keep the content coming! As for the steel if you’re making the knife for you I say make it out of the toughest and best material possible, extra work be damned!
I doubt I'll ever nee to know all of this, (Can't afford the equipment for that metal) but thanks any way, enjoyed the video...your other videos have helped this old duffer much, Thanks...I don't know where you live but I love the woods in the background of the burn barrel.
Back after blowing my face up 👍 been so damn busy lately that I can sit and catch up on your vids for a while now 👌🤣 can't wait honestly. Stay awesome Alex 👍
Just buy a bark river bravo 1 lt. Use it for testing 3v capability. I have one. Took alot of sandpaper to reprofile the edge but man it lasts. I batoned 20 poplar logs and it was still sharp. Not hair shaving but 5 minutes on the strop it was back! I never ReSharpen. Just maintain with a strop. Easy blade maintenance
" Science is the field of study concerned with discovering and describing the world around us by observing and experimenting. Biology, chemistry, and physics are all branches of science. Science is an "empirical" field, that is, it develops a body of knowledge by observing things and performing experiments." Mate, if its not science that you are doing, then what is it? Experimentation with no purpose?
I am not a knife maker, but a knife user. Still, this is interesting, since I knew so little about heat treatment and it can have a direct affect on the quality of the knife, despite the type of steel. I would like to see a list or comparison of companies who do good treatment of certain steels.
I have the SRK in 3v and I'm now resisting the urge to put some abuse to it. Good video, and I think the answer is the cost in time and effort depends on the efficiency in manufacturing. Heat treating 1 blade at a time vs Heat treating 100 blades at a time or having a constant revolving 1 blade on one blade off to the next step assembly type production makes it much more plausible but again. That's not the small or custom knife makers forte until they are a little more advanced and established and even then. I'd say it's a flagship metal although i'm curious how polished the steel will get as my SRK is fairly dull and more of a grey color than it is silver.
I know less about metallurgy than I do about astrophysics, but it seems that the heat treat is at least as important as the steel. I have a couple of 420HC Bucks that will hold an edge through all kinds of abuse. They're also a bitch to sharpen. Am I wrong?
with releases like magnacut, there's a strong preference to stainless over stain"full" Tops 154cm sells like hot cakes Can't keep them stocked Esee is releasing more and more in s35vn. People don't want the added maintenance and stress of having to constantly oil a tool or carbon steel blade, keep it dry, and separate from the sheath, and God help you if you're out in the forest with your wrinkler If it starts raining. With 154cm you're good to go
The tip of the Mora 511 is tougher. I've done that tip test with birch wood. It was really hard/dry. A cutting board. Many knives fail that test. The 511 didn't.
i think your subjective qualitative judgments are in fact good data points, because it's what the end user ultimately will feel the difference with. whether it feels tough, and whether it feels like it's retaining it's edge somewhat more than mid grade steels
Another great video my friend, still wish I could buy one of your knives. Congrats on 100k+ subscribers, enjoyable and informative video. I saw blackbeard project video do a place quench with compressed air was really interesting. Love the new shop and new equipment looks great.
I'm not really concerned about the edge retention as much as I am about the toughness, I just simply want a knife with a drop point blade, between 5 and 6.5 mm's thick, with the blade length at 5 inches, overall about 10 or 10.5 inches long with a micarta or g-10 handle and a sheath. If it can withstand the abuse that I put it through...it's worth paying for!!!
Also 3v rusts like crazy! When I commissioned my knife; he had to ship it off to be heat treated because his oven wasn't big enough! ...mind you I had to twist this guys arm to get him to make it because he didn't want to out source... he said the company he had do it had a very interesting heat treatment that required a salt bath 🤷♂️ maybe that means something to you but I always wondered what exactly that processed looked like.
Molten salt kiln...literally. Howard Clark used one in Weapon Masters...the katana episode. They are vertical, for longer blades. Try EEZOX or Corrosion X for your rust problem. Im not sure how simmering a rusty 3V blade in water would affect it...as far as coloring goes but I do know it converts red rust to black magnetite on standard HC steels. I've done it. See Walter Sorrels video called "Caring for carbon steel knives"
@@tikkidaddy oh the rust I keep at bay. I just noticed if I set it down while working it on a wet stone, it will rust before it dries... i was aware this is the down side to 3V but was still impressed how quickly it goes! Currently under the daunting task of giving it a mirror polish.
But when the 3v has the right temper with a good thick .25" blade and good geometry on the edge and thick tip then you've got about an indestructible knife as you could possibly have.. For example, the Lionsteel T6, it's unreal tough.
@@OUTDOORS55 Oh wow. Thank you for the crazy fast reply. I was reading that even will regular maintenance and oil etc that the 3v will still oxidize and struggle with corrosion. Do you have any experience with this. There is a good chance that while this blade is on my plate carrier it could be exposed to moisture. I would keep it well maintained/oiled. From my reading it seems that 35VN and 3V are about the same in terms of ease of sharpening. Would that be correct? Thank you very for your opinion!
Are you by chance taking pre release orders for the final design , if so please let me know I would like to be in the first group to get your first production run.
How do feel about S30V? I bought a Benchmade Bushcrafter awhile ago but had to change the grind it's laughable out of box. They really like putting folder grinds on fixed blades .... I was not happy with the stock blade. Even the handle was off a bit but I just fixed it all and now it's a great knife amd holds up well. . That said I think a 1095 version would be just fine to me .. I just don't really care anymore . I'd rather just have a good 1095 that sharpens without diamond stones.
for the end user, there is only ONE problem with properly hardened and heat treated 3V....it's harder to sharpen.....the upside is that you do not have to sharpen it anywhere NEAR as often....I have only 3V steel knives.....
It would be interesting to learn what you need and how to make knives . I know you have covered some of this already but I don’t know if you put it in a new knife maker format
When it comes to knives I say .8% carbon is the sweet spot ... But that is the steel snob in me. I know that the temper is where the knife is either made or broken. Personally I like the Particle metallurgy of CPM 3v, the end result I am iffy about.
Great video as allways! Could you make a video about how exactly can someone heat treat cpm 3v properly? Thank you for your work and content by the way!!!
Good video. I was really surprised when you break the tip but then you say the tip was 1/4 of an inch into the wood. CPM3V is a really tough steel isn't it.
Just a a point of terminology, if you say you are doing "unscientific" testing, that means you can not know anything as a result of what you do, that likely isn't what you want to say. Science is a way of knowing which is based on testing your ideas by interacting with the world, in comparison to say Math or Logic which is a way of knowing by testing your ideas vs other ideas, you can do it all in your head. Science has no limit on accuracy or precision, in fact many scientific experiments are very low in both. I have published experiments (peer reviewed journal articles) where the most I could say was something was closer to 10 than 100, that's not very accurate or precise, but that's cool because I was very clear on the low strength of the claims (my data set was just barely above the noise but my lab group was seeing something never before observed). All science demands is that your claims are supported by data, not that they have so many decimal places. This just means you be very careful what you claim, usually how certain you are, which is why scientists in general are always making so many caveats and being clear about uncertainty, variances, the need for work to verify, support, etc. .
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Just as a point of properties :
-strength is resistance to deformation (bending, prying, etc.), this is applying a force essentially very slow were the steel has time enough to deform (move) internally if necessary
-toughness is resistance to fracture (impact), this is applying a force so fast that the steel can not deform fast enough to absorb energy and so it will crack if necessary (if over loaded)
Your words shall be immortalized, Professor Stamp.
@@mikafoxx2717same bro
Outstanding work, all I could think when the tip broke was Damn, that's some nice grain structure. I'd recommend testing corrosion resistance as well which should be easy enough. Temper 5 or so types of steal. Leave one set outside (because people forget stuff) put one set in a pair of jeans with a brine soaked ham (to represent edc) and leave one set in a bedside drawer (because you always need that knife until a better one comes along) walk away for a month and see what you come back too. Just my two cents. A great video boss!
Enter the land of diminishing returns... does the added cost equal the benefit?
But you have already reached this conclusion
Great Job Alex
Once you leave the land of decent budget products you always enter the land of diminishing returns. You pay a shit-ton for that last little bit of quality. For the price of one Porsche 911 you can buy four Toyota Camrys.
profd65 what a shitty comparison. A Porsche 911 is a sports car that is beautifully manufactured, mid engine borderline super car. Compared to your grand mother’s Toyota Camry. Just because you cannot afford one does not mean it’s not worth the price
@@Connor-wf2zn
I didn't say that a Porsche 911 isn't better than a Toyota Camry, shit for brains, but it's not four times as good as one. If you looked at cars as mere tools instead of as status symbols or props in hip hop videos, you would easily see this. And my ability or inability to afford a 911 has no affect on my thinking. Let's talk about what I can afford: I have a guitar I paid $800 for, and it definitely isn't twice as good as a $400 guitar--I know, because I also own a guitar I paid $400 for, and I've played many other guitars that cost $400, and many other guitars that cost $800 or more.
@@profd65 3V, 4V, Vanadis 4 Extra etc steels, actually ARE four times better than common 1095 etc steels. they have 4 times the edge retention, 4 times more toughness, more stain resistant and so on....Not ot mention the better fit and finish, better gandle ergos, better sheaths etc you get with a more expensive knife. It's simple, you get what you pay for.
@@greekveteran2715 It's simple, you're wrong. A Spyderco Delica isn't twice as good as an Ontario Rat with D2 steel. It might not be better than it at all. A Bark River Aurora II isn't three times as good as a Mora Garberg. I'd rather have the Aurora but no way it's three times as good. Now, the Benchmade Puukko comes in CPM-3V and costs more than the Garberg, but it probably is worth the extra money you pay. But the Puukko only costs $127.50 (versus $89.99 for the Garberg). The difference in price isn't huge, but the little bit extra you pay gets you superior steel and Benchmade's awesome warranty.
As for CPM 3V being four times tougher than high carbon 1095--I very seriously doubt it. If your 1095 knife isn't robust enough for you, just make the blade a little thicker. The Becker BK2 is made out of 1095 Cro-Van, and that thing is a tank. Good luck trying to break it.
The 1095 will definitely rust so you need to look after it. The1095 won't hold an edge long, but it's easy to sharpen.
Doing great real world testing man. Congrats on raising the standards of your knife making skills and sharing your experience on the journey !
Man, that's so cool you make your own knives.
Basically one of the best knife maker channels there is. Period.. plus amazing information with cutting humour. Thanks Outdoors
Thank you for the time and effort! I love these real world comparisons that others don’t talk about
Appreciate the effort you put into these, Alex. Glad you’re back.
Time spent, but not wasted. Very much appreciated. Carry on.
Well done! You’ve gotten quite sophisticated in your knife builds compared to some of your earlier attempts. Very cool. Can’t wait to see the next step.
3 year old video but it just popped up for me.
This video gave me a newfound respect for Mark Johnson of Vulcan Knives.
He has built me two folders using Rex121 and a few more for other people.
He had never even heard of the steel until I asked him if he was up to the challenge of building me a folder using it.
He said it was quite a bit more difficult to work with than his usual 20cv but after watching this video I think he was downplaying how difficult it was, since Rex is a bit harder than 3v.
If anyone is curious, both knives he made tested at 70 and 70.5hrc!
I've noticed 3V completely changes when cryo''ed in LN2 for 2 hours,
Then hardened even more when Cryo'ed a second time over night, between tempers.
It only gets worse on belts.
Maybe that's the delta heat treat "secret". Though I doubt there's much retained austenite to convert to untempered martensite after first temper, but it doesn't hurt.
I've got three 3v knives and wow! It's amazing steel
Try some Vanadis 4 Extra, even Ballbearing steel can get better on both edge retention and edge stability, compared to CPM 3V. It's not overrrated but there are way better performers in my experience out there (all things be equal of course, 'cause other atributes like heat treatment, bevel geometries, etc, are far more important.)
Re: edge retention. If you want to eliminate a *little* bit of the subjectivity of your cardboard cutting, go have a look at Pete’s data on the Cedric and Ada channel. He has a link to his spreadsheets in almost every video description now; just pick any of his recent videos and look in the description. I didn’t see that he tested 1084, but given that he’s done just about every other steel(!) you can do some interpolation.
I like knifes because of their diversity or properties and uses. I rarely only have access to 1 knife that requires me to be super picky about that knife being perfect for every task. I do like balanced usefulness in a EDC knife, but life is full of compromises. Choose the ones that fit your needs.
3V is a great steel, but the heat treat as you show is a pain. I used wet silicon carbide belts to grind it after HT so I didn't have to keep dunking it in water. Stuff is totally remarkable, but my heat treater used an air blast to quench. That plate quench is probably why the tip broke. The heat treat is why it is very expensive. It is a very shock resisting steel, that's why it's tougher, the very high vanadium content makes a lot of V carbide which is harder than tungsten carbide. Any of the high vanadium steels will hold an edge very well, better than any other steel just about.
In regards to toughness, one thing to consider is long term use. Ed Schempp was one of the first makers for example to note that in Bladesports, a lot of steels can easily handle one competition, or even multiple but after awhile they will suffer catastrophic failure. This is why he preferred simple steels because they will outlast the life time of a user.
I have seen knives last for days, even weeks of use and then suddenly just suffer gross failure, it is just an accumulation or growth of small micro-cracks. So even IF a steel can take a certain amount of use for low cycles (
@Star Gazer1212 Wood performance is a very different thing in many respects. It is mainly push cutting, and you want an edge which ideally wears very slow, no chipping surely. Try maybe W1, Super Blue, M2 or M4, make sure you get someone who hardens it in a sensible manner for wood cutting.
@Star Gazer1212 No, that's a decent steel, but the manufacturer will matter more.
Ive wondeted if 3v is so tough then why are most knives made from it crow bar thick. I think id like yours in a 4 inch wood handled version.
Mainly marketing and the whole “tacticool” factor.
Yep, tough steels would do best in 1-2mm steel, really. It's only like D2 that you might ever want to have it be 3mm thick scandi if you crowbar it.
Thanks for all the effort! Tip test made me think it would have broken after first plunge-pry if it had scales you’d been able to grip it and rip it.
great job,appreciate all your hard work ,3v is awesome steel but then again so is 1080 and some of the others you've used
Men you sold me this knife concept like 4 vids ago, i want one!!!
Thank you for taking the time to make and test various blade steel. Your information is a reliable resource.
IMO the 3V still belongs to the category of "reasonable" super blade steels, not that crazy expensive with tons of Mo and V in it. Now the knife makers are simply promoting stuffs like M340 to get higher pricing on the product AND ignoring proper treatments to explore the potentials. Very educational video!
3v, 4v, and CruWear are some of the most well balanced steels for sure. For folders, I definitely err more towards 4v or Cruwear.
I love Bark Rivers 3V I have 3 blades in it. You’re right it’s hard to work with & they have a company that water jets and grinds the primary bevel, then another company that does the HT so it’s easier for them because they just do the final grinding and apply handles (which is still a lot of work). Have you considered elmax, S35VN, M390, Cru-Wear is a great steel.
As to that tip breaking I think as you already know I'm sure that was more blade geometry than failing steel . At 76 now i think the whole super steel quest is necessary for some my self no . I have zero problems with sharping a blade every now and then .most everything I own is either 440 -c , 01 ,1095 ,and my favorite is 1056 . I am not a small knife guy and most knives tend to lean toward the Bowie style it's my thing and I love them all .Thanks for all your hard work in looking for that perfect material but for me it's cost I simply can't see paying hundreds for a knife it's just not necessary for me but for some it is the quest for the newest thing and good for them it's there fun in life so be it go for it . Happy trails stay safe in the shop. Get some cement board over the insulation paper behind your oven and above . Stay safe
1056, wow, rarely heard of that. Usually its 5160 for that carbin content. A lower carbon steel made harder will be tougher than a high carbon steel made softer! And iron carbides add basically zero edge retention since its barely harder than fully hard eutectic steel. Spend the little carbides on chrome ones like in AEB-L, 12c27, 14c28n, or even trade it all for vanadium like with magnacut, but keep the volume low for fine carbides that keep the steel tough as possible.
Very good video, I agree anything more would require a very well regulated testing protocol.
I heard 1080 is forge steel and much easier to consistently heat treat than 1095 and then there is D2 which i find good for pretty much anything except diving but i guess its air quenched too - good basic carbon steel is awesome and works like a champ ---keep it simple and good Cheers
I like using D2 for alot of things
I tend to think that ninety five percent of the public could get by fine with another type of steel.
Would be good to have a knife like that, good material, but considering all things, there's other options !
Thanks for sharing and take care. 👍
I think you're right. It makes sense to prioritize your wants and go for the top priority and maybe a "nice to have" characteristic, instead of all your wants in one knife as wonderful as that would be.
I've never seen this method of quenching before, thanks for demonstrating it. You did it in 3 seconds so it's viable, I think the max allowance for most Steel types for martensite transformation is 7-8 seconds. So anything under 8 will work.
3v is an air quenching steel. Plate quenching is usually only done with air quenching steel. Although with the right set up it can probably be done with some slow oil hardening steel like o1. It will not work with steels that have a very fast cooling curve needed to harden like 1095 or 1084 etc.🙂
@@OUTDOORS55 Oh okay, so this is a type of air hardening technique, thanks for the info. I think I own a few air hardened steel blades, but I've never attempted it myself. I actually assumed you just put them in a air vacuum or cold air near ice. I would never have guessed plates were used to transfer the heat and absorb it. pretty ingenious.
CPM-3V is my favorite steel for fixed blades.
you might try 8670. its affordable, easy to heat treat and extremely tough. It doesnt rust instantly like that one alloy you had either. check out the baton test on the 8670 chef knife on Alpha Knife Supply.
Always great to watch. Thanks for inviting us to your continued education.
These videos were awesome. I really want to get a great EDC fixed blade knife, but I'm so behind the times on what's out there. So I'm really glad to see your videos and I hope to see more, to try to figure out what I want in a fairly small EDC knife and how long I would have to save up for it. I may be disabled, but I'm not dead. Just low on money. Lol 🤣
I have love knives since I was 10 and learn the quickest way to lose interest in knives is to never have a good quality one, to see what a quality made knife feels like and what it can do. These new knives are just amazing. 😲
Go with Mora for a edc fixed blade.
They are cheap enough so you don't stop yourself from actually using it in the "wrong" way, that's the point and why ALL working people use them in Sweden.
I’m a simple man. I see your videos I watch and hit like. Please keep the content coming!
As for the steel if you’re making the knife for you I say make it out of the toughest and best material possible, extra work be damned!
You know it's going to be a good video when the c-clamps and angle iron come out. Great video as always. 👍
Wow, your test blade did much better than my Benchmade Leuku
You should get some knife blanks from the water jet channel and review their blanks
I was thinking about that
I doubt I'll ever nee to know all of this, (Can't afford the equipment for that metal) but thanks any way, enjoyed the video...your other videos have helped this old duffer much, Thanks...I don't know where you live but I love the woods in the background of the burn barrel.
No blade no matter how tough the steal is will stand any torture test with such a thin geometry
Back after blowing my face up 👍 been so damn busy lately that I can sit and catch up on your vids for a while now 👌🤣 can't wait honestly. Stay awesome Alex 👍
Great work ! I really like my TOOR darter with 3V a lot !
3V is some great stuff, and definitely worth the extra trouble to work with.
I just got a Demko knife in 3v. I'm very excited to try it out
Just buy a bark river bravo 1 lt. Use it for testing 3v capability. I have one. Took alot of sandpaper to reprofile the edge but man it lasts. I batoned 20 poplar logs and it was still sharp. Not hair shaving but 5 minutes on the strop it was back! I never ReSharpen. Just maintain with a strop. Easy blade maintenance
Super grain structure. Love my 3v blade,once i got it sharp. Took a while for a great edge but was worth it 👌
Plate quenching is great, air and water too. Hate any oil quenching.
Why so?
Good job pal, man... that steel is no joke.
That's why a lot of us bushcrafters like 3v
Thanks for so much work and the results on your video's. Which is the best steel.
Doing God's work brother! So freely sharign this wonderful information is saintly!
Maybe baton 16 penny nails to check edge toughness. I've seen it done with other steels
I really liked watching this series.
" Science is the field of study concerned with discovering and describing the world around us by observing and experimenting. Biology, chemistry, and physics are all branches of science. Science is an "empirical" field, that is, it develops a body of knowledge by observing things and performing experiments."
Mate, if its not science that you are doing, then what is it? Experimentation with no purpose?
Most Bro Scientists don't like to admit their contributions to the knowledge base. Most shouldn't. Some are contributing greatly. Cedric and Ada.
More scientific than quantum physics or astronomy for sure.
I say his type of science is like a 220 grit stone, very coarse, but saves time for the next grit.
What was the power bill for your oven on that build?
Thanks for the education lesson...again. You truly love your craft.
thank you very much for this informative video. sound, video quality is at peak.
I am not a knife maker, but a knife user. Still, this is interesting, since I knew so little about heat treatment and it can have a direct affect on the quality of the knife, despite the type of steel.
I would like to see a list or comparison of companies who do good treatment of certain steels.
@Star Gazer1212 Thank you.
Great job on the heat treatment .
Another great video! Thanks for taking the time to make them!
Awesome video. My stress relief videos. Looking forward to the next one.
O1 I think is still the best choice for non-stainless steels.
I have the SRK in 3v and I'm now resisting the urge to put some abuse to it. Good video, and I think the answer is the cost in time and effort depends on the efficiency in manufacturing. Heat treating 1 blade at a time vs Heat treating 100 blades at a time or having a constant revolving 1 blade on one blade off to the next step assembly type production makes it much more plausible but again. That's not the small or custom knife makers forte until they are a little more advanced and established and even then. I'd say it's a flagship metal although i'm curious how polished the steel will get as my SRK is fairly dull and more of a grey color than it is silver.
I know less about metallurgy than I do about astrophysics, but it seems that the heat treat is at least as important as the steel. I have a couple of 420HC Bucks that will hold an edge through all kinds of abuse. They're also a bitch to sharpen. Am I wrong?
That's a good knife to take to Mars
I liked the music for the tip breaking part
with releases like magnacut, there's a strong preference to stainless over stain"full"
Tops 154cm sells like hot cakes
Can't keep them stocked
Esee is releasing more and more in s35vn. People don't want the added maintenance and stress of having to constantly oil a tool or carbon steel blade, keep it dry, and separate from the sheath, and God help you if you're out in the forest with your wrinkler If it starts raining.
With 154cm you're good to go
The tip of the Mora 511 is tougher.
I've done that tip test with birch wood. It was really hard/dry.
A cutting board.
Many knives fail that test. The 511 didn't.
i think your subjective qualitative judgments are in fact good data points, because it's what the end user ultimately will feel the difference with. whether it feels tough, and whether it feels like it's retaining it's edge somewhat more than mid grade steels
Another great video my friend, still wish I could buy one of your knives. Congrats on 100k+ subscribers, enjoyable and informative video. I saw blackbeard project video do a place quench with compressed air was really interesting. Love the new shop and new equipment looks great.
Good to see you again...I miss your content :)
Great informative video! I’m subbing, one of best knife channels on RUclips!
i am impressed for this test
Remember to drink water
Yeah 7 liters a day.
You sheeple!
Thanks
Thank you
I'm not really concerned about the edge retention as much as I am about the toughness, I just simply want a knife with a drop point blade, between 5 and 6.5 mm's thick, with the blade length at 5 inches, overall about 10 or 10.5 inches long with a micarta or g-10 handle and a sheath. If it can withstand the abuse that I put it through...it's worth paying for!!!
Hey! You should definitely check out cru-wear as well
And Vannadis 4 exrta 😉
Great demo of 3V. Doing the grind after the heat treat is more common? Or do knife makers do most grinds before heat treating the steel?
Very interesting brothee! I Truley enjoy watching your videos man. Keep doing what you do man
Also 3v rusts like crazy! When I commissioned my knife; he had to ship it off to be heat treated because his oven wasn't big enough! ...mind you I had to twist this guys arm to get him to make it because he didn't want to out source... he said the company he had do it had a very interesting heat treatment that required a salt bath 🤷♂️ maybe that means something to you but I always wondered what exactly that processed looked like.
Molten salt kiln...literally. Howard Clark used one in Weapon Masters...the katana episode. They are vertical, for longer blades. Try EEZOX or Corrosion X for your rust problem. Im not sure how simmering a rusty 3V blade in water would affect it...as far as coloring goes but I do know it converts red rust to black magnetite on standard HC steels. I've done it. See Walter Sorrels video called "Caring for carbon steel knives"
@@tikkidaddy oh the rust I keep at bay. I just noticed if I set it down while working it on a wet stone, it will rust before it dries... i was aware this is the down side to 3V but was still impressed how quickly it goes! Currently under the daunting task of giving it a mirror polish.
Hurts to see you breaking the tip of such a good and strong knife
I know it was just for testing, but still
I know, all that work just to be destroyed. The grain structure was beautiful though, so I guess we wouldn't have seen that...
But when the 3v has the right temper with a good thick .25" blade and good geometry on the edge and thick tip then you've got about an indestructible knife as you could possibly have.. For example, the Lionsteel T6, it's unreal tough.
Great testing an how you made your own knife,I'm intrigued.
Choosing a EDC carry blade for both utility and self defensd. The blade I like comes in both CPM35VN and CPM3V. What is your suggestion?
3v
@@OUTDOORS55 Oh wow. Thank you for the crazy fast reply. I was reading that even will regular maintenance and oil etc that the 3v will still oxidize and struggle with corrosion. Do you have any experience with this. There is a good chance that while this blade is on my plate carrier it could be exposed to moisture. I would keep it well maintained/oiled. From my reading it seems that 35VN and 3V are about the same in terms of ease of sharpening. Would that be correct?
Thank you very for your opinion!
A SERIES OF INTERESTING COMPARISON VIDEOS :)
THANK YOU FOR SHARING :)
THANK YOU FROM ISRAEL :)
I wanted to know if you can keep ur whetstone in water all the time? Or is there a better solution?
Are you by chance taking pre release orders for the final design , if so please let me know I would like to be in the first group to get your first production run.
How do feel about S30V?
I bought a Benchmade Bushcrafter awhile ago but had to change the grind it's laughable out of box.
They really like putting folder grinds on fixed blades .... I was not happy with the stock blade. Even the handle was off a bit but I just fixed it all and now it's a great knife amd holds up well. .
That said I think a 1095 version would be just fine to me .. I just don't really care anymore . I'd rather just have a good 1095 that sharpens without diamond stones.
tyckrider ,do you have a link for the oven you're using.
for the end user, there is only ONE problem with properly hardened and heat treated 3V....it's harder to sharpen.....the upside is that you do not have to sharpen it anywhere NEAR as often....I have only 3V steel knives.....
Thanks for sharing...
Keep up the great work...
It would be interesting to learn what you need and how to make knives . I know you have covered some of this already but I don’t know if you put it in a new knife maker format
How tough is s90v compared to s7?
When it comes to knives I say .8% carbon is the sweet spot ... But that is the steel snob in me.
I know that the temper is where the knife is either made or broken.
Personally I like the Particle metallurgy of CPM 3v, the end result I am iffy about.
Great video as allways! Could you make a video about how exactly can someone heat treat cpm 3v properly? Thank you for your work and content by the way!!!
10:50 Cringed as you came close cutting into your body.
Nice breakdown video BTW, Subscribed!
Good video. I was really surprised when you break the tip but then you say the tip was 1/4 of an inch into the wood. CPM3V is a really tough steel isn't it.
3v works much better for knives if you low heat temper it. In the 350 to 400 depending on what hrc you want
Your oven, Alex. Did you make it or buy it? If you bought it, where & how bad was the price?
Amazing work !!!
Very like your video, now very clear.
Very cool would love to own the best that comes out. But try those knives on African hard wood, would be very interesting...
Where you get that accessory to keep the blades in a vertical position when inside the forge?
Just a a point of terminology, if you say you are doing "unscientific" testing, that means you can not know anything as a result of what you do, that likely isn't what you want to say.
Science is a way of knowing which is based on testing your ideas by interacting with the world, in comparison to say Math or Logic which is a way of knowing by testing your ideas vs other ideas, you can do it all in your head.
Science has no limit on accuracy or precision, in fact many scientific experiments are very low in both. I have published experiments (peer reviewed journal articles) where the most I could say was something was closer to 10 than 100, that's not very accurate or precise, but that's cool because I was very clear on the low strength of the claims (my data set was just barely above the noise but my lab group was seeing something never before observed).
All science demands is that your claims are supported by data, not that they have so many decimal places. This just means you be very careful what you claim, usually how certain you are, which is why scientists in general are always making so many caveats and being clear about uncertainty, variances, the need for work to verify, support, etc. .