I get 100% quality with 200% effort on my sv06 plus. I have to use prusa slicer with a modified mk3s+ profile. The bearings also come prefilled with gravel, so that’s nice.
I hope your joy continued as much as mine did with the power supply. The stock one has so much electrical switching noise that it was crashing the OS on my machine, or at least jumble up the displayed numbers big time every few minutes (I mean -570 °C on the hotend MUST be a feature, right?). Jammed FM radios pretty good as well. Oh, and the fan on the PS was a blast, literally. Straight up the sound of a jet engine right at your disposal.
Yep just bought someone elses used sv06 plus headache. Its like a high maintenance woman and its pretty slow. Proprietary parts that cost more. Cheap tiny connectors. Z axis homing is inaccurate. Must manually adjust it. Lets face it. Its a pos that looks like a prusa and doesn't deliver. Lol Maybe it can print nice at 60mm/s but jeez
My SV06 (like most of them I think) came with the bearings unlubricated. It's best to follow one of the many prusa lubrication videos and grease them. Replacing the power supply with a Meanwell is prudent, since there are reports of the supplied brand having issues. The "SV06 5015 Fan Duct Rounded" from printables improves part cooling significantly
It might seem like it but that's not really a high current situation with those connectors. The printers running at 24 volts and it's a 40 watt heater cartridge. That's only 1.6 amps.
"High current" is a relative term. Most sources say JST is good to 2A, so 1.6 amps is kind of pushing it, especially on a moving part that might be jostled easily.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Yeah I suppose it depends on what kind of safety factory you want. 1.6 amps is 20% below the rating for the connector and they could usually handle a fair amount more than their rating. I guess the proofs the pudding though. If it's actually a problem then it's a problem :-)
I wish you had mentioned to check the stepper temps after any voltage increase. Also nice to see you have learned connectors add resistance and therefore should be avoided in high power usage as we had discussed previously..
I wonder if part of your Z offset being too high was using that thick paper for feeling instead of standard copy paper. There seems to be a decent selection of cooling upgrades for the standard SV06 available, so hopefully one of them is an adequate upgrade for you. I have a SV06 Plus, and the cooling upgrade options aren’t quite as plentiful yet for those. Thanks for the great review.
Toolhead; I just bought a spare toolhead from Elegoo. It had been used prior with yellow filament inside. For QA, i think it's quite normal process to have them extrude some material
I had to buy new bearings for mine, and my injection molded belt tensioner on the x axis broke. My tensioner block looked poorly molded and I quickly redesigned it and printed my own that is still going after 60 hours of print time. That part could have been 0.02 cents more expensive and cast out of ZAMAK or .10 more expensive and cast out of aluminum lol. Sovol support was fantastic though. Kind people over there
Personally I keep a microfiber and a bottle of isopropyl alcohol next to my printer. A quick wipe of the bed removes any oil and dust without leaving any residue.
Sovol has always used Creality open source designs but usually improves upon them also and fixes the firmware, my friend bought this machine and his hotend had been tested also when I helped my friend with the setting up of this machine I recognised the plug and interface but couldnt recall where from, I then later realised it was a floppy disk interface. There were rumours that Sovol was part of Creality and I think people thought this because they use some of the Creality parts, but so do other manufacturers, I dont think they are part of Creality as if they were Creality would have also used Sovols design improvements, although being open source they could do this anyhow, maybe they used Sovols fix of the XY offset in the firmware to get the uniform probing that Creality found impossible to do for years.
I changed the Y Axis motor with a motor an older Ender 3 Clone printer. It had 3 advantages. 1: A lot more powerful. 2. It has a flatspot on the drive shaft, so much harder for the pulley to slip. 3: A lot quieter. I add some insulation to the bottom of the heatbed, and did some printed upgrades. Added strength to the Y-axis cable ends, and ribbon cable hot end side. Electronics cover for the back of the screen. Placed the part cooling fan behind the hotend, and inserts in the aluminum extrusions to fill in the slots next to the heatbed.
FOR THE LOVE OF HUMANITY GREASE THOSE BEARINGS IN THAT BEAST! In all honesty; I absolutely LOVE my SV06 Plus model. Seriously, once I got those bearings properly disassembled and correctly packed with grease, it was like owning a new machine, one better than the initial printer I purchased. Switched it over to Klipper firmware and now will never look back. I can print PETG at 110mm/s with acceleration at 2000mm/s/s and get the same or better results than 35mm/s and 750mm/s/s on Marlin.
@@derjeniche371 I used an accelerometer for resonance compensation, and I printed the pressure advance cube and calculated at just over 0.02s iirc. I use PrusaSlicer and SuperSlicer.. But for models that require a lot of detail, or 100 micron layer heights I need to slow down to a maximum of 70mm/s, or on my Ender 5S1, a max of 90mm/s @ 5000mm/s^3 for 100 micron layers and 0.014-ish pressure advance if I want PETG to "Print like PLA" (which it does not and never will because it is not PLA it is PETG and it will always have scars from the supports to sand.. it's annoying when RUclipsrs say PETG prints anything like PLA). And it took me a month of tuning, mechanical repairs and a back room poker game with Satan to get my soul back after a choice I instantly regretted. It was worth it because there was a point where I was ready to give up on PETG. Also glue overtop of PEI sheets prevent the PEI from being torn up when you get that perfect Z-Offset.
The z-axis movement being so slow during calibration is 100% a manufacturer firmware issue. I remember upgrading my Ender 3’s firmware from the one Creality provides to a nightly Marlin build and the calibration and leveling was infinitely faster
My SV06-Plus is useless less than half a year after i bought it. Trying to fix it now buying spare parts however my Prusa MK4 works like a clockwork. People who need a reliable machine should get the Prusa MK4 or a Bambulab. If I add all the hours I spend troubleshooting the SV06 the Prusa is way freackin cheaper.
Your question about a connection between Sovol and Creality - if you look at some of the other Sovol models they are direct rips on Creality models and often use Creality mainboards and other components. I have seen discussions in other social media settings where it seems commonly understood the two brands share common assembly, manufacturers and suppliers in addition to Sovol directly licensing the use of some Creality components.
Zero issues with my SV06 out of the box. Beautiful prints in PETG right from the start. I can't think of another $230 printer with even close to the specs of this one. Far far far superior to any Ender. Not sure if you are just trying to justify a previous $800 spend on Prusa.
This makes so much more sense than a board not having uart-driven TMC steppers in 2023. It also means that the pot-changes Nathan did in his video will have zero effect as it will be set by software, not by Vref, which would totally undermine his "stronger y axis" ranting.
I wish Sovol had made the SV07 as a Klipper version of the SV06 but with better part cooling. The SV07 was a couple of steps backward from the SV06... but with Klipper. I'm waiting on the SV08+. 😕 Or the Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro Plus.
Is here someone who has fixed the auto-z-align-problem with the SOVOL SV06? Everytime I start the "Auto Z-align" the printer starts moving, stops and the display shows "Driver error: PRINTER HALTED please reset". I already installed the latest firmware from a new micro-SD-card, but i never got farther than the Auto Z-align
I have the SV03, I did upgrade its hot end with a TH3D V6 and hero Me7 to increase its cooling for the large prints. I did not like the cooling as it comes its too weak for anything. The hot end was good and would also like to see a .06/.08 nozzle option for the sv03 as its a waste of a large format
I'm wondering what the actual current was and is after the vref change. You can check it with command M906 if you connect a computer to it through USB. Should be 760-800mA, but if it's not very strong even with those numbers it's probably cheap steppers?
@@NathanBuildsRobots What would you choose if you could choose a printer for around $200? I thought these printers would be better for using rails instead of wheels like the other 3D printers.
What? They are still using fixed Vref? Not software-set max currents? I would expect that if you want to do sensorless homing you want the current to be fairly low when homing vs. sufficiently high when printing. I'm stunned that in 2023 this thing would not drive the current via uart commands to the steppers ...
My SV06 had a big problem with the bed mesh and very loud bearings.. the mounts of the Z Steppers were not square which resulted in an X-Twist which i never got fixed 100%. Customer Support is the worst i have seen so far. The always on Fan in the PSU i sannoying AF I can not recommend Sovol at this point.
It's a good option for its price point. Is it a high quality masterpeice? Not so much. But at some point you have to realize you get what you pay for. This is a very inexpensive machine with a decent feature set for the price.
Injection molding versus 3D printing is kind of a debatable thing. Yes each part is cheap but if you're in a situation like prusa is where they make their product in the European Union getting the mold created and everything is going to be very expensive for each part. They don't source their parts from China. Especially given that they make their own filament and their own 3D printers it probably doesn't cost them very much to three print their parts. It's also kind of part of their persona.
@@lucase764 I was under the impression that they sourced most of their parts as locally as possible but I could be wrong about that. I can't really find anything specifically that states where they get their parts from. I know they're printers are put together in Europe but It is possible that they source parts from China. I thought I heard an interview at some point that they didn't but who knows.
@@DoRC I guess I always assume things are made in China unless the company specifically says they are not. I don't know for sure though. Thanks for the reply.
@@lucase764 But that's actually a fairly safe assumption these days, especially these days, not even the type of assumption that makes an ass out of anyone; the truly forgivable type as it is by and large true for the vast majority of things. To a sickening degree.
oh God this thing... my first printer, the bearings were shot, motor mount screws too long, horrible motor resonance, not enough flow to set linear advance properly, cracking x carriage. And all the reviews were completely positive
@@NathanBuildsRobots Sovol sent me some parts. I only confirmed the resonance issue recently, so we'll see if I get new motors from them. To be fair, it was a very early unit.
You're all over the place!! "doesn't print as well as the MK3", "prints as well as the Prusa", annoyingly noisy", "it's quiet, from another room, but it's annoying to be in the same room", blah, blah. You're not even consistent with your video's title, "Half the Quality", "but Sovol has a very good machine". A very unfocused review!!!
I'm wondering what the actual current was and is after the vref change. You can check it with command M906 if you connect a computer to it through USB. Should be 760-800mA, but if it's not very strong even with those numbers it's probably cheap steppers?
"The best parts of the MK3S and the worst parts of the Ender 3 S1" 😂 Had to chuckle at that!
I get 100% quality with 200% effort on my sv06 plus. I have to use prusa slicer with a modified mk3s+ profile. The bearings also come prefilled with gravel, so that’s nice.
I hope your joy continued as much as mine did with the power supply. The stock one has so much electrical switching noise that it was crashing the OS on my machine, or at least jumble up the displayed numbers big time every few minutes (I mean -570 °C on the hotend MUST be a feature, right?). Jammed FM radios pretty good as well. Oh, and the fan on the PS was a blast, literally. Straight up the sound of a jet engine right at your disposal.
Have you made any upgrade ?
Yep just bought someone elses used sv06 plus headache. Its like a high maintenance woman and its pretty slow. Proprietary parts that cost more. Cheap tiny connectors. Z axis homing is inaccurate. Must manually adjust it. Lets face it. Its a pos that looks like a prusa and doesn't deliver. Lol
Maybe it can print nice at 60mm/s but jeez
@@hamradiohack You buy a used, returned unit and are surprised to have problems?
I'm super happy with my SV06. quality of prints from PLA is superb. I'm amazed at how good it is for the price.
My SV06 (like most of them I think) came with the bearings unlubricated. It's best to follow one of the many prusa lubrication videos and grease them. Replacing the power supply with a Meanwell is prudent, since there are reports of the supplied brand having issues. The "SV06 5015 Fan Duct Rounded" from printables improves part cooling significantly
Thanks, will check it out!
www.printables.com/model/410475-sv06-5015-fan-duct-rounded
That looks pretty nice
Would you have a link to the PSU, weighing up this sovol with a couple upgrades, with the Neptune 4 and creality v3
@@archivedcafeteria look for meanwell LRS-350-24
The linear bearings need to be greased it’s a common issue with both models of the SV06
I bought 4 for the price of a prusa. After addressing a few small issues it is as good as any orange colored printer.
What issues do you have to fix thanks
Sovol is literally as if Prusa and Creality had a child
It might seem like it but that's not really a high current situation with those connectors. The printers running at 24 volts and it's a 40 watt heater cartridge. That's only 1.6 amps.
"High current" is a relative term. Most sources say JST is good to 2A, so 1.6 amps is kind of pushing it, especially on a moving part that might be jostled easily.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Yeah I suppose it depends on what kind of safety factory you want. 1.6 amps is 20% below the rating for the connector and they could usually handle a fair amount more than their rating. I guess the proofs the pudding though. If it's actually a problem then it's a problem :-)
You may be late but this is the best SV06 review out there. Thanks!
I wish you had mentioned to check the stepper temps after any voltage increase.
Also nice to see you have learned connectors add resistance and therefore should be avoided in high power usage as we had discussed previously..
I wonder if part of your Z offset being too high was using that thick paper for feeling instead of standard copy paper.
There seems to be a decent selection of cooling upgrades for the standard SV06 available, so hopefully one of them is an adequate upgrade for you.
I have a SV06 Plus, and the cooling upgrade options aren’t quite as plentiful yet for those.
Thanks for the great review.
Someone just commented with a good option, I'll try it out sooner or later!
Did you ever find a decent upgrade, looking at the plus
Toolhead; I just bought a spare toolhead from Elegoo. It had been used prior with yellow filament inside.
For QA, i think it's quite normal process to have them extrude some material
I had to buy new bearings for mine, and my injection molded belt tensioner on the x axis broke. My tensioner block looked poorly molded and I quickly redesigned it and printed my own that is still going after 60 hours of print time. That part could have been 0.02 cents more expensive and cast out of ZAMAK or .10 more expensive and cast out of aluminum lol.
Sovol support was fantastic though. Kind people over there
Best clean of the printing surface is washing it with water and soap 😉 working every time 👌
Personally I keep a microfiber and a bottle of isopropyl alcohol next to my printer. A quick wipe of the bed removes any oil and dust without leaving any residue.
12:26 "so you can hear those balls rubbing out to each other" 💀
Been waiting for a video since the ratrig livestream series :)
Some linear bearings have Delrin pads between recirculating balls
Sovol has always used Creality open source designs but usually improves upon them also and fixes the firmware, my friend bought this machine and his hotend had been tested also when I helped my friend with the setting up of this machine I recognised the plug and interface but couldnt recall where from, I then later realised it was a floppy disk interface.
There were rumours that Sovol was part of Creality and I think people thought this because they use some of the Creality parts, but so do other manufacturers, I dont think they are part of Creality as if they were Creality would have also used Sovols design improvements, although being open source they could do this anyhow, maybe they used Sovols fix of the XY offset in the firmware to get the uniform probing that Creality found impossible to do for years.
I changed the Y Axis motor with a motor an older Ender 3 Clone printer. It had 3 advantages. 1: A lot more powerful. 2. It has a flatspot on the drive shaft, so much harder for the pulley to slip. 3: A lot quieter. I add some insulation to the bottom of the heatbed, and did some printed upgrades. Added strength to the Y-axis cable ends, and ribbon cable hot end side. Electronics cover for the back of the screen. Placed the part cooling fan behind the hotend, and inserts in the aluminum extrusions to fill in the slots next to the heatbed.
FOR THE LOVE OF HUMANITY GREASE THOSE BEARINGS IN THAT BEAST! In all honesty; I absolutely LOVE my SV06 Plus model. Seriously, once I got those bearings properly disassembled and correctly packed with grease, it was like owning a new machine, one better than the initial printer I purchased. Switched it over to Klipper firmware and now will never look back. I can print PETG at 110mm/s with acceleration at 2000mm/s/s and get the same or better results than 35mm/s and 750mm/s/s on Marlin.
What settings are you using for these speeds with PETG?
@@derjeniche371 I used an accelerometer for resonance compensation, and I printed the pressure advance cube and calculated at just over 0.02s iirc. I use PrusaSlicer and SuperSlicer.. But for models that require a lot of detail, or 100 micron layer heights I need to slow down to a maximum of 70mm/s, or on my Ender 5S1, a max of 90mm/s @ 5000mm/s^3 for 100 micron layers and 0.014-ish pressure advance if I want PETG to "Print like PLA" (which it does not and never will because it is not PLA it is PETG and it will always have scars from the supports to sand.. it's annoying when RUclipsrs say PETG prints anything like PLA). And it took me a month of tuning, mechanical repairs and a back room poker game with Satan to get my soul back after a choice I instantly regretted. It was worth it because there was a point where I was ready to give up on PETG. Also glue overtop of PEI sheets prevent the PEI from being torn up when you get that perfect Z-Offset.
The z-axis movement being so slow during calibration is 100% a manufacturer firmware issue. I remember upgrading my Ender 3’s firmware from the one Creality provides to a nightly Marlin build and the calibration and leveling was infinitely faster
My SV06-Plus is useless less than half a year after i bought it. Trying to fix it now buying spare parts however my Prusa MK4 works like a clockwork. People who need a reliable machine should get the Prusa MK4 or a Bambulab.
If I add all the hours I spend troubleshooting the SV06 the Prusa is way freackin cheaper.
Your question about a connection between Sovol and Creality - if you look at some of the other Sovol models they are direct rips on Creality models and often use Creality mainboards and other components. I have seen discussions in other social media settings where it seems commonly understood the two brands share common assembly, manufacturers and suppliers in addition to Sovol directly licensing the use of some Creality components.
needs to compare it to the Neptune 3 Pro :) and please also look into upgrades to the N3 Pro !
Sovol uses CR10 heatblock, maybe thats the reason it has CR on the silicone sock.
Should someone buying their first printer get this model or Neptune 3 Pro?
Its a tough choice. I would add the Artillery Sidewinder X2 to your list for sub-$300 printers. I have a video on that one as well.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Out of those 3 which one would you go for ? Your opinion?
Zero issues with my SV06 out of the box. Beautiful prints in PETG right from the start. I can't think of another $230 printer with even close to the specs of this one. Far far far superior to any Ender. Not sure if you are just trying to justify a previous $800 spend on Prusa.
I think you can also use the LCD to set the stepper current...
This makes so much more sense than a board not having uart-driven TMC steppers in 2023. It also means that the pot-changes Nathan did in his video will have zero effect as it will be set by software, not by Vref, which would totally undermine his "stronger y axis" ranting.
@@MisterkeTube That is how I see it too! (TMC 2209 are installed btw)
I am waiting for the sv07. Basically a sv06 but with klipper and better things
The SV-07 is on sale right now, only $9,999,999. If you pick one up make sure to use my affiliate link.
I wish Sovol had made the SV07 as a Klipper version of the SV06 but with better part cooling. The SV07 was a couple of steps backward from the SV06... but with Klipper. I'm waiting on the SV08+. 😕
Or the Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro Plus.
Is here someone who has fixed the auto-z-align-problem with the SOVOL SV06?
Everytime I start the "Auto Z-align" the printer starts moving, stops and the display shows "Driver error: PRINTER HALTED please reset". I already installed the latest firmware from a new micro-SD-card, but i never got farther than the Auto Z-align
Looking forward to the SV-07 for 1/3 the quality at 5/16 the price
Their's an upgrade to the part cooler fan and shroud with 1550 fan.
Record
Mike Irish
I know all about the annoyance of balls rubbing up against each other, and the noise they make...
🏈🏀⚽️⚾️🥎🎾🏐🏉🎱🎳
Its because its not using stealthchop for the steppers.
Jim, at TH3D made a video 3/15/23 with a new fan duct and a new powerfully as tha main change
Great video as always 👍 😀
I would like to see someone use the sovol or the ender 5s1 with filaments other than pla.
I just got an enclosure for my Ender 5 S1, so I might be doing that soon.
I have the SV03, I did upgrade its hot end with a TH3D V6 and hero Me7 to increase its cooling for the large prints. I did not like the cooling as it comes its too weak for anything. The hot end was good and would also like to see a .06/.08 nozzle option for the sv03 as its a waste of a large format
I'm wondering what the actual current was and is after the vref change. You can check it with command M906 if you connect a computer to it through USB. Should be 760-800mA, but if it's not very strong even with those numbers it's probably cheap steppers?
Put klipper on it
That's what I thought too😅
Yes, please. And make it like a tutorial video so we all can do it
Great review. As always. I too am on the D list. Haha
One day we will make it to the C-List 😂🐀💩
This is where I strive haha
You both deserve to be on the A list. You always cover the small details that matter the most to users. In other words, real world reviews!
Is this the best budget 3D printer if you don't care about speed?
It’s not the best budget printer, I’d only go as far as to say it is A budget printer
@@NathanBuildsRobots What would you choose if you could choose a printer for around $200? I thought these printers would be better for using rails instead of wheels like the other 3D printers.
What? They are still using fixed Vref? Not software-set max currents? I would expect that if you want to do sensorless homing you want the current to be fairly low when homing vs. sufficiently high when printing. I'm stunned that in 2023 this thing would not drive the current via uart commands to the steppers ...
Sounds like an Apple e from the '80s
My SV06 had a big problem with the bed mesh and very loud bearings.. the mounts of the Z Steppers were not square which resulted in an X-Twist which i never got fixed 100%. Customer Support is the worst i have seen so far. The always on Fan in the PSU i sannoying AF
I can not recommend Sovol at this point.
It's a good option for its price point. Is it a high quality masterpeice? Not so much. But at some point you have to realize you get what you pay for. This is a very inexpensive machine with a decent feature set for the price.
We need the mustache back😅😅
Need to increase mustache grow rate to 60mm/s
@@NathanBuildsRobots 😅😅
awesome and keep it up!
Definitely sounds like old IBM desktop
Injection molding versus 3D printing is kind of a debatable thing. Yes each part is cheap but if you're in a situation like prusa is where they make their product in the European Union getting the mold created and everything is going to be very expensive for each part. They don't source their parts from China. Especially given that they make their own filament and their own 3D printers it probably doesn't cost them very much to three print their parts. It's also kind of part of their persona.
Do you mean the printed parts they use aren't sourced from China? Or other parts?
@@lucase764 I was under the impression that they sourced most of their parts as locally as possible but I could be wrong about that. I can't really find anything specifically that states where they get their parts from. I know they're printers are put together in Europe but It is possible that they source parts from China. I thought I heard an interview at some point that they didn't but who knows.
@@DoRC I guess I always assume things are made in China unless the company specifically says they are not. I don't know for sure though. Thanks for the reply.
@@lucase764 Well I know they are "made" in Prague but I don't know exactly where they source all the materials from
@@lucase764 But that's actually a fairly safe assumption these days, especially these days, not even the type of assumption that makes an ass out of anyone; the truly forgivable type as it is by and large true for the vast majority of things. To a sickening degree.
thingiverse have a blower upgrade
He says he is a D list RUclipsr and then gets the first K1 lol
Salty
Prob same breakout board builder, it is China so patents don't seem to matter
because Sovol cooperate with Creality
oh God this thing... my first printer, the bearings were shot, motor mount screws too long, horrible motor resonance, not enough flow to set linear advance properly, cracking x carriage. And all the reviews were completely positive
Did you get it exchanged for a better one?
@@NathanBuildsRobots Sovol sent me some parts. I only confirmed the resonance issue recently, so we'll see if I get new motors from them. To be fair, it was a very early unit.
The real noise is you complaining about noise
Now that’s a noise worth complaining about!
You're all over the place!! "doesn't print as well as the MK3", "prints as well as the Prusa", annoyingly noisy", "it's quiet, from another room, but it's annoying to be in the same room", blah, blah. You're not even consistent with your video's title, "Half the Quality", "but Sovol has a very good machine". A very unfocused review!!!
You're right, I should have been more consistent.
pffff, ok Prusa fan boy. The SV06 is only better in every single way. Enjoy your $800 gummy bears
I'm wondering what the actual current was and is after the vref change. You can check it with command M906 if you connect a computer to it through USB. Should be 760-800mA, but if it's not very strong even with those numbers it's probably cheap steppers?