Dead 10W LED floodlight autopsy and repair/modification.
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- Опубликовано: 26 авг 2024
- This 10W LED floodlight I put in my brothers shed didn't last long before it started strobing and then just lit very dimly.
I changed it for another light (20W floodlight) and brought it back to see what went wrong, and then decided to modify it completely to use a 10W "growlight" LED with a different driver.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
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The thing I respect most about Bigclive is that he actually goes through fixing things. How many of us would have just thrown this in the bin and been done with it? The will and knowledge to actually fix things is a rare quality these days.
I'd guess that those of us who watch all the way through without thinking "Get on with it already!" are basically pretending his hands are ours because we know what it feels like to do all of that, and to want to do it.
Except the trick with the solder. That's just black magic.
So instead of a normal light, your brother will now be able to grow.. things! I'm sure he'll be pleased!
Grow things? Im parkin the Banana in hes hammock bringing some Hawaiian Tropics for a Tan Sesh. Surfs up
lol, "my light is broken, could you fix it?" *replaces it with hot pink*
ikr and 2x less powerful
Haha yes! I note he has already replaced his brother's light with a new 20w one.
With that spectrum light, his brother can now grow weed ;)
With all the lights bigclive fixes and reviews, i just imagine his house filled to the brim with LED floodlamps everywhere
grow light? what is your brother doing in that workshop
Clive, your the Bob Ross of electrical things lol.
Hey Clive, this teardown/repair of yours has actually inspired me to finally take a look at the LED floodlight I had lying around for ages (literally years) ever since it went black showing signs similar to yours. So far it seems that in my case the driver is toast (we'll see once the spare part arrives though, because it has a motion sensor that can still be wonky, I just don't feel like playing around with mains voltage that much, so I'll test it when I replace the driver instead), but I made several observations: the ground cable leading out of the floodlight was unconnected (hell even not even stripped!) the same way as yours, but the LED didn't seem to have been underdriven (the LED was pulling ~15W when I connected it to my lab power supply that can only do ~31 volts max, but the driver is rated at 30 watts). Thanks for the video though. It has finally pushed me to do some useful repair ;)
I really like the rambling/mucking about vids...very relaxing!
Me too :) It's like a podcast.
I had one just like that model which lasted about a year. When I disassembled it the ground wire was coated in a blob of silicone on the end and attached nowhere, just floating! So there was absolutely no ground whatsoever on an outside light. Take care. Doug
A 10W LED that only runs at 3.8W. The Chinese would be proud of you.
It's a grow-light LED so I'd have to describe it as 100W in the listing.
even moths will ignore ;)
If you have any security cameras around your place you should make some of these with 10 watt IR LEDs. See how much you could light the place up without anyone noticing.
I agree!!!
+bigclivedotcom
You most likely WILL notice it. Professional IR-light stuff I use/install at work consists of 6 powerfull IR-LEDs. In darkness you easily see a dim red glow from the LEDs. I bet that those large COB LEDs aren better visible.
@@weeardguy as long as it isnt lighting the place up for human eye we're all good
bought a 5pk of these lights for 20USD to play around with. Gutted one already and refitted it with an XML led(for its efficiency), a mini funduino/LDR module, an 18650 with TP4056 board and a 5V solar panel. Putting this little guy in the garden as a very bright solar (sunset detecting) light with a run timer of my choosing. Gutted 2 more of them to hang high on a tree in the garden with a bank of 18650's charged by tp4056 from 5V solar panels and a switch to light up the main watering area. Came in very useful since our garden is very far away from any mains sources.
One does not simply apply heat sink compound without making a mess.
Not if you used enough of it, anyways. Not really such a thing as too much these days with modern non-conductive heat sink compounds performing about as well as conductive heat sink compounds.
Clean up isn't nearly as bad as many will say.
Soap and water probably won't touch it, which is why everyone says it's hard to clean up.
Isopropyl alcohol or Goo Gone will get rid of it no problem.
When your 3.5 gram syringe of arctic silver thermal compound costs $5, you don't make a mess with it.
*****
Well, you TRY to avoid making a mess with it.
Sometimes you don't succeed.
When your IC Diamond 24 carrot costs over $30AUD.
I've bought a heap of the 20W Ledvance floodlights through CPC recently. They're substantially better built than the previous ones we've had and they're not expensive at £11.50. Hopefully they'll last longer than the older ones!
Only thing is they're a really orange white which looks weird compared to the very blue white of the previous generation ones.
My fave casing too!As you said, great for modding! I put 9 1w LED's in one with 3 3w drivers and it looks great!
Impulse mods are my favorite thing on this channel
He is soooo fastidious and SO safety aware that it is actually fun to see him goof up sometimes like I do (far more often.)
I love how your not afraid to get messy to many people are like nope got to be clean ... but you get the job done and right to the point no matter what
Just love your videos, cannot wait when i get home from work to settle down and watch them. You say its Therapeutic doing these things, well it is for us watching also. Keep up the good work :-)
Clive, I've been buying the Chinesium floodlights with the individual SMD LED's on a large PCB. While the build quality of the frame is dire, the LED's spread the heat over a larger area and seem to perform brilliantly compared with those high power chip LED modules
Not so sure about the large arrays of LEDs. The ones I've seen so far all had issues with using on-board drivers that switched the LEDs in groups to ride the sinewave voltage. They tended to fail dramatically.
Only thing worse than heatsink compound is anti-seize compound. That shit's the DEVIL! One little errant dab, and it's all over your hands, face, tools, car interior, etc.
I had a friend that used to say "one drop is enough to paint a car."
Thanks for the video. I opened up "20W" unit and sure enough ground wire was just left in there,not terminated. I fixed that and replaced short mains cable that came pre-installed as I noticed cable insulation was cut by the nut.
Roxanne... you don't have to put on the red light...
+ Sudos
you deserve 100 'thumb-ups' at least. Roxanne ... true love song
Clive, could you dissect a doughnut for me -- I want to see what's inside .
smashing out videos lately, great late night entertainment these last few nights!
Clive’s soldering technique is beautiful
I missed the part where you said you had replaced the light in Ralfy's garage with another. I was imagining a confrontation when you returned with a light more suited for growing Mendocino Sour Diesel or illuminating the display window of an Amsterdam brothel.
Give Clive a broken white LED light for repair and get a pinkish-magenta one back.
That's what we call "a job well done". :)
I find fanny flambeaux very therapeutic. :) LOL
4:55 oH PLEASE LET IT BE PINK
6:24 YAAAY
I honestly wasn't sure what color to expect, and then it's pink!
Love the holding the PCB and wire in the same hand while soldering ! You must have not sniffed too much glue !
I have that exact red Stanley screwdriver - have done since I was a kid...was my dads at some point.
I do too. Bought a set while at university in early 60s and I’m now 74! They also came to Texas with me! Cheers
me too. must be from late 60's -70's.
I have disliked the Scottish accent before, but yours Clive, is not bad at all. In fact, it's rather soothing.
So Clive prepares an indoor grow light... Aiming for weed kingpin of IoM? :-D
seems like it lmao xD
Clive, you have almost 200,000 subscribers. It's time to upgrade to a proper camera and lighting system. Excellent content, amazing voice and tact, keep the vids coming. cheers!
Wouldn't it be cool if Ralfy get's into these lights. Could you imagine a regular "weed-whackers" vlog with the same level of detail that he garnishes on his "malt-mates"
I had the exact same lamp with a PIR, after 3 years, it stopped working.A replacement led was around £2 but I tested the power supply output which indicated 62v and a replacement was £5 to £7. This was an outside security lamp so the casing was well corroded. A new lamp was £14 so a bit of a no brainer.Interestingly it states on the box " led not replaceable".
The open circuit voltage of the power supplies does go high off load. They self regulate down by the current rating of the LED. The main thing to note when replacing a 10W LED is that some are about 12V at 1A and some are about 30V at 300mA. (either a three by three series/parallel array or all in series.)
Instructional video on how to make your own affordable grow lights 😂. Interesting one this, I’ve thrown away many of those led floods, definitely going to have a go at repairing the next one! Thanks!
If a student takes a discussion in a random direction, it's called "going off on a tangent" or "chasing rabbits". If the professor goes off in a random direction, it's a "learned digression". If you accept the title of professor, you weren't chasing rabbits ;-)
Show us your grow box setup
Clive wouldve be fun to see your brother pop up in your video discussing with you what he prefers for a replacement in the light :)
I thought it was the Chinese's job to run 10W LEDS at 3W
It's their job to advertise 100W, use 10W & run 'em at 3W.
While having a single strand from the live touching the bare metal case that is ungrounded.
A part of me is terribly curious about how Ralfy responded when he realized 'repaired' didn't mean what he initially assumed it would mean.
what do you use to manually adjust the camera settings? I use Yamera, it's free unless you want to record Slow motion and other unnecessary stuff. You can adjust exposure, focus and white balance.
Good to see that I'm not the only one with sporadically 10 thumbs.
"Biased towards the planty growth type thing"... hahahaha. Speaking from 'plant' growing experience are we Clive?
Thanks Clive when I go in the workshop next I will have look. It's the same size unit in your video but does have a bigger led in the middle. There was always a black blow mark on one of the strips, I think they are made up of small smd leds not 1 cob(cheap)
When we were kids you might get a Mechano set for Christmas and have loads of fun making "stuff". Now kids are wrapped up in "cotton wool". What would you put together as the equivalant "Beginners to eletronics for children" kit? Aim it at say, 7 years +-ish age range. Must include soldering iron! Lets get kids back into learing by "hands on". It must be affordable and cheaper than an iPhone 7. LOL. Cheers.
Include a Sebastian soldering iron. BC reviews one and was as surprised as I am about how good they are. Safer for a kid.
people are getting soft. how's a kid supposed to learn without danger?
lol, lets get kids back into learning by permanently scaring their precious little hands. Never did me any harm!
MoviePro is pretty good for adjusting and locking various camera settings. I've been using it for a while but probably don't use enough of its features in my videos.
totaly ! you can adjust or lock any settings of any iThings on the go…
Why is it a little bit of heatsink compound can get over everything , test meters clothing everything . Good work Clive
2 years later and I am doing a project on a dead lamp case while i rewatch this video. The thing in question was a Luceco (not sure, either screwfix or toolstation) brand PIR floodlight. Basically the "driver" executed the 27v LED string.
I use quotes, because the (potted) driver, when dug out of the potting compound, was simply what looked like a normal dimmer switch (triac, diac, etc) and 2 fixed resistors in place of the pot, followed by a FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER and a token smoothing cap. One of the resistors had failed open, causing the 'pot' to be turned fully on. And sent the 27v LED string 340v. It reacted as you might expect. But the casing turned out handy for a 12v work light (6x 3w LEDs in series/parallel)
That's odd. I've not come across that style of driver before
@@user-gx6jb6wc5g Well shit.. i mean poop. I wish i hadn't thrown it in the trash now. It was potted into white silicone in a recess in the fitting's casting, I was amazed by the lack of components.
The PIR was clearly a seperate 'bought in module'
There are a few alternative camera apps that let you change white balance, set exposure, manual focus, etc. I recommend Manually and Manual Camera
My Yihua 936D does the same with the buzzing. It never buzzed when it was new but after a couple of weeks it now buzzes when not heating.
Hi Clive. I would really like to see how you rigged up your iPad to record these awesome videos of your. No wobbling or shaking. I'm really impressed. Well done!
sometimes it looks like your soldering iron actually touches your fingers briefly. does it? do you get burned if the iron touches your skin for just a fraction of a second? ive never actually directly burned myself with my iron, only indirectly with wires ive been holding that get hot. i would think it'd burn immediately instead of that effect where you can handle things like hot coals as long as you move them very quickly through your hands.
Are you sure the LED was at fault. I recently bought 2 80 watt led lights from E bay and one of them was flashing from the start, I found the driver was at fault. As the supplier just sent a replacement I removed the driver and replaced it with a DC to DC converter and now run it from a 12 volt battery. The lamp actually only draws 20 watts not the 80 as it is supposed to but still lights up most of the garden a lot brighter than the 500 watt one it replaced.
High BC, great video's!
Question: You seem to be a "light" man.. Why you never measure the lux or lumen of a light/led ? Only the power consumption.. does not tell very much.
Maybe you could make a fixed distance setup and test the lumen of your need little projects.
PS: mine had a power supply just like the white one you are adding. It too failed by blinking then quit after several days of the blinking. Doug
I have five of these 20 watt flood lights in my work shop and all of them have started flashing. I have replaced all five led chip
If you have to change any more and it is the larger square array with two rows of the chips inside, then you can fit a higher power LED on the same driver for built in redundancy. The bigger LEDs have more rows of ten chips and the current will just be shared amongst them so they will have less stress. I use 100W LEDs in my 20W bench lights.
There are several camera apps on the app store that gives you better manual control. In a controlled setup such as yours, maybe you should give a couple a shot and ask for feedback! Also maybe you could get some clip-on lenses for the ipad that will give you full frame wide-angle, fisheye, or zoom for really cheap. would give a 1-up on Julian's magnifier shots ;)
Interesting - the buzz from the power supply turns to a few clicks before the LED flashes when unplugged.
I've got both the ph2 and pz2 of those screwdrivers and they're really good.
Why do they bother with the reflector anyways?
Surely it serves no purpose as a reflector?
With the LED mounted behind it and all.
Naptha is great for cleaning up heat sink compound.
I want a custom flood light, but I can not find parts needed (besides LED and driver). Should I buy a cheapest device from Ebay and modify it instead?
There are apps that can lock the white balance if you don't mind sideloading .ipa files to the iPad (have tested with my first generation iPad mini and sixth generation iPod touch).
I love that you keep mentioning that lead-free solder is garbage, whenever you solder things. Because it is.
When I started soldering I wonderd why it was so difficult. Then I tried lead solder..........
I also wondered why my soldering skills had deteriorated! I was fine when a lot younger. Then BC mentioned “lead fee crap solder” so many times I checked my reel and sure enough it was lead free. Reverted to 60/40 and voila, old skills back!
I brought 2 of the exact same as this one I put one up in my front garden need my door and the other one outside my back door the one in near my front door failed after only 4 days I had the same problem the other one has been working just fine tho
Hey Ralfy, I fixed your light... it's bright pink now. Well gee thanks, lol!
The problem with all these LED floodlights is that you have provide an additional terminal box for the loose lead since there is no provision for connecting the supply cable unless you bodge it.
I had no idea Servisol did thermal paste. I've only ever used Servisol Super 10 and Foam Cleanser 30
It's a spot light Clive. Not a pretty light. It's meant to be driven, why under drive?
Defeats the purpose. If anything fit a thermally reactive load to dump current in to another lamp if getting too warm.
This just gave me the idea to swap out the 8W White for a 20W 940nm IR.
Keep in mind that the case has to be big enough to dissipate the heat from the LED to keep it cool.
Very true. It's worth a shot - since this is a 12VDC fed LED I have less worry about a mains issue in the box. It's the same as the one you have in this video.
It's more about protecting the LED from the heat it generates in operation. If it gets too hot it will fail. That's why higher power LED floodlights have bigger cases for an LED array that is the same size, but rated at higher power.
That's the fun in experimentation, though, right? :)
I know...old video. That ack'd, My fix with a 12VDC LED would be to just add a coax connector mounted to the external case and power the light using an external wall-wart 12VDC adapter. Would be easier and possibly faster to perform the mod, possibly cheaper, removes the PSU as a source of heat in the metal case, and generally safer for an outdoor light.
In fact, I'd simply (if needed) enlarge one of the LED case power lead holes and install the coax connector there (or run a two-lead wire out to a sleeved water-resistant coax connector like a dongle kind of thing) and thus eliminate the entire PSU case, making it a VERY thin light.
Some LED Drivers can 'overshoot' at power on or when there is a short mains interruption. This means a very short term current overload. You should be able to detect this visually. As LEDs are very fragile to overcurrent this is something to watch out for.
I love these build-along vids!! We're about due a kit build too, right? :)
Well, your brother will be pleased to know he could grow bottles of whisky under those lights, manx whisky
pretty light for this. in fact, LED the CRI need the light efficiency/diode quantity/wave length/light angles etc.
Oh wow, 190k subs already.
I remember when you had some 2k not that long ago.
Great video Clive.
hello Clive, the red/magenta/pinkish led you used, is suitable for plant growing?
Yes. Plants look green because chlorophyll doesn't absorb green light. So you don't want to waste wattage producing light in the middle of the spectrum that the plants won't use. Thus red-blue/magenta.
I am mildly concerned that you put that light in your brothers workshop and it was still glued shut.
Hi Big Clive,
Love your work & thank you for your time. Much appreciated. Very informative and very entertaining. Would you please do me the favour of posting the name of the mains safety device you use to hook up your bare 240v wiring to.
Keep the fun rolling...........
David (from Downunder)
It's a Quicktest. I made a video where I opened it.
Thank you.
I have ordered one.
I'm sure if you hold in the centre of the screen (as if you're selecting to re-focus on something else) it locks something and if you swipe up or down it changes the light stuff for if you're looking at something bright or something I'm not sure what it is 'cause I'm not a camera person I just know it does it
One of the best vids our protagonist has done, who has not got a hooper jooped one of these?
12.00 Aluminium or copper conductors? I can't imagine ally will tin that easily....anyone?
Why did you not put a dimmer in it as well (with a little knob on the back)?
It came out very neat!
"Lightmate ML-5000" LED worklight - purchased from Costco several years ago.
Hasn't had much use, but stopped working when I was in the attic cutting loft boards.
Tested the power supply and it started showing 3 and then ran down to 0.
The plate on the back says 220-240V 50/60Hz 0.143A. Power:17.5W 1000LM
It seems a shame to bin it because it's a sturdy piece of kit.
Any idea if/where I could get a new power supply for it?
Can you use them for light therapy? Some say it gives better skin as an outcome. It fits the forehead or one cheek at a time.
Do I want to know why anyone would prefer pinkish light in the shed? ...nah...
It's for the dalek gay underwear party!
blower Oh fuck, you've just stumbled upon the Christmas Day vid.
does the reflector not risk shorting out the led?
for a workshop I prefer white or white bluish light
Clive, have you considered using a different camera app so you have white balance control?
I had a 30W, 34 volt floodlight go recently. The whole spiel about LEDs lasting 30,000 hours is great until the driver goes. It's an IP65 or IP67 Ansell unit. The driver is unpotted and not sealed at all. There was corrosion on the PCB and one of the traces was blown. As a newbie, what are the odds that bridging the blown trace with a piece of wire would get it working again, or burn down the house?
If it's corroded open circuit it may fix it. If it's actually blown there may be another fault.
I think there are 3rd party apps that give you better control of the camera (like locking white balance, automatic exposure compensation, etc.)
Clive, could I replace the white LED with a UV LED in this flood lamp??
Final thought: Could that light be powered by a 12v AC (magneto) source since it has a bridge rectifier in it for the household supply? Would 12v give a lesser output from the 120vac it is designed for? I ask wondering if one could be used on a snow blower with a 2amp 12vac charging system (no battery). thanks. Enjoyed the tear down. Take care. Doug
Any particular reason you don't use automatic wire stripper?
I might be a bit late, but you can lock iPad's camera color temperature if you use something like ProCam ;) You can also lock ISO, focus, shutter speed... While recording and shooting
There are a number of professional camera apps that you can use, including Halide, ProMovie Recorder, and so many more.
Yep, but I’m not sure that they existed 4 years ago
Hey bigclive u can also power that 10 watt led with capacitor dropper.please make that video also 10 watt led on capacitor dropper.
It would work, but not be very bright. Capacitive droppers are better suited to large series strings of low current LEDs.
bigclivedotcom Why don't you try making a high power LED run from a capacitive dropper? Perhaps from one of those energy saving boxes? I've run four series 30w leds off of a capacitive dropper, and at 120v 60z too. Its a super high power work light