Fitting a RideTech Front Suspension to a 57 Chevy BelAir & installing a 427 Big Block & 4L80E Trans
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 29 авг 2024
- In this episode Im Fitting a RideTech Front Suspension to our 57 Chevy BelAir & installing the 427 Big Block & 4L80E Trans
Nice work Tom. The Chevy is going to be a really nice cruise machine. With a whole heap of power at the same time. I’d be throwing away that tension wrench just tighten them up until they strip and back them off half a turn. 😏
Cheers Andrew! sure is nice to see something in this workshop look kinda finished ) Thanks for the high tech torque technique , must try that one next time ! )))
Just found the channel, sweet 👍
Cheers mate !
What I have read for torque converter spacing is 1/8" to 3/16". 5mm is just slightly over 3/16", so personally I would not be comfortable with that. I would have added a very thin shim to it. 3/16 = .01875" and 5mm = .019685" which is right at the maximum from what I have read in several places. I would rather be comfortably within the middle range than at the max range.
Anyway , I hope this holds up good for you.
Can you humor me and turn your upper control arm bolts around😂 your wheelaligner guy will thank you later.
Fantastic watching it all come together.
haha, ok I can do that ! lol
@@phatridesgarage3760 yer I'm one of those guys 😅
Looking magic, clean work like it 😊❤🍺🍻🍺🍻 KC 🇦🇺🇳🇿🤝🇳🇿😎👍✌
Thanks mate, it makes a change from fabrication
@@phatridesgarage3760 absolutely I'm hearing ya, have Fun 👊😊🇦🇺🇳🇿🍺🍻
Looking great Tom, nice work, that suspension looks real nice.
Thanks Kim ,I am loving how its turning out, had that stuff sitting in boxes for months )
enjoy the journey your taking us and also stop hanging shit on yourself you doing a great job
haha cheers mate!
Everybody needs an engine hoist like yours!🤣😂😅
its so very handy ! ))
That's a sweet looking rack... Although in this day and age I'm not sure if I can say that without someone getting all offended.
yeah its nice and great for the LHD to RHD conversions, the engineers seem to like them
@@phatridesgarage3760 just looks like a quality bit of kit. Beats trying to adapt HQ steering bits like would have been done in the past.
Best part of the build
Got that right Sam !
Suggest if you ever want to see that 550hp you ditch that paper filter and get yourself a K&N for it.
The specs on the trans sound like a small upgrade from stock. Should be good for cruising.
A quick tip for torquing up bolts when on the engine like that. Because you only have compression to resist you (spark plugs in), the best way to ensure it doesn't turn is to... This might be hard to put into words... but torque over itself. Imagine you stick the torque wrench on so it is the furthermost it can be from the center of the crank. This is going to provide you the maximum amount of toque and therefore rotational movement. Now take the torque wrench flip it 180 degrees, so the handle is now the closest you can get it to the centreline of the crank. You have basically removed all of the torque multiplication of the torque wrench handle length. Place it just before TDC and torque over the TDC mark (if the flex plate had a TDC).
Should have put a bit of Vasoline on the converter snout, so it doesn't rub against the seal dry.
I've always heard that you only need the width of the bolt in depth, but I have never been comfortable with that. If it was me I would have whacked some verniers in the holes to see how deep they were and got bolts a few mm shorter than that. If you have thread available why not use it. You are spreading the load over more threads.
The price on the bolts seems pretty decent. Bolt prices have gone crazy in the last decade. This week I bought 18 bolts to replace the Chinesium bolts that came with my remote control mower deck and 18 cone lock nuts and it was close to $40.
Had to laugh at the OCD moment. Sometimes there is an up and a down with the coils, but just like you the writing would have to be right. It would drive me nuts.
You want a little bit of rubber grease on that front sway bar if you don't want to hear squeaks.
On the extractors I like option 2
Just love watching this project come together, it is nice to see things being done right and not cutting corners.
Thanks mate, was some good tips there, like your idea of torquing up. I did have some lube on the convertor snout ,and checked the seal in the box had lube also prior to fitting, I never push anything into a dry seal, just didnt mention it, hopefully I can get better at summarising my actions on camera . I also did lube the sway bar bushes prior but didnt show lol, and I changed out the engine mount bolts later for some longer ones. Thanks for all the info though
@@phatridesgarage3760 not sure where I learned about that torque trick. Probably a very long time ago when I was trying to do the exact same thing and it was moving on me. Videoing is an art and I can't say it is one I have come close to mastering. I watch your Chevy videos from start to finish, but most people won't, and it doesn't seem to mater what I do it is hard to get most people to watch my videos much past the 1:30 mark. I don't know what editing software you are using but I have recently changed from using Windows Movie Maker to Kdenlive and It has lifted what I can do heaps.
@@DodgyBrothersEngineering I watched a couple of your videos and your editing seems fine mate. I use only apple products, so for my editing software Im using Apple Final Cut Pro which is great once you get the hang of it
@@phatridesgarage3760 easiest way ive seen to torque flex plate/flywheel bolts is to spin them up as you did, then thread a bolt or screwdriver through a bellhousing bolt hole (preferably one thats not threaded if using another screwdriver) then place a screwdriver in the ring gear teeth and use it against the bolt/screwdriver to 'lock' the flywheel/flexplate in position as you torque the bolts, if that makes sense? i admit its easier to do with 2 people though but possible with one.
Progress on chev, cool😉👍👍
cheers mate!
You've been watching VGG. Way too much! I kept thinking the box should be brown. What a horrible thought. I whistled when you put that engine mount bolt through. Looking great, imagine an engineer from GM in 57 getting to drive this?
haha, yeah its catchy!
Great video tom 57s coming along nicely cheers. Melb.
Appreciate that Les!
Looking great mate, love your engine crane.
Thanks mate, yeah she comes in handy!
Looking good mate
thanks mate !
Craig’s Automatic’s at Chipping Norton could put you in the right direction with your inspection pan..
Cheers mate , will check them out
I would be putting some loctite on the stainless bellhousing bolts, not the best spot for stainless.
Yeah wouldnt hurt i guess, may be taking it off later anyway, might repaint the engine
@@phatridesgarage3760 I was hoping that was the case. I sometimes burr the thread on the bolts too as the stainless is too hard. I love tri-fives and your work. Keep it up.
Great looking Chassis! What have you painted the chassis with? Looks very nice
Thanks mate , just used a satin black 2 pack paint on it
Hey Tom, are you going to the GM day at Penrith? It's on 7th May. It's mostly for US cars.
Hey mate, didnt know about it, would be nice to see, cheers!
@@phatridesgarage3760 it's at the museum of fire, big show which has been going for many years
@@danamg9328 cheers mate 👍might see you there
👏🍺👍🏻
Hey Tom why bother with a crappy engine crane when you can have a real crane 😂😂
Haha Exactly !
Im no expert but arent the sway bar u shackles suppose have lube on
yeah mate, I did lube them prior with the clear lube supplied, I guess that part got cut out during the editing
Why no sandwich plate??
Normal SB and Big block Chevs do not use a "sandwich plate" like the SB Fords do. The Ford plate is used to accurately locate the starter in relation to ring gear. This Chev engine has a block mounted starter rather than a bellhousing mounted starter like fords are. I asked that same question myself when i picked up the transmission haha, the only thing it is missing is the dust cover for the underside of the torque convertor
Hi just found ur channel I’m from the other side of the globe where Right hand drive is the norm was wondering if u can point me in the right direction for the Right Hand Drive steering rack that you’re using and if there is a kit available for the 57 Chevy any help will be greatly appreciated thanks and good luck with your project thanks again
Hi mate , sure , I got my RHD power steering rack from Retro Racks im South Australia - it is designed to be used as a conversion from LHD to RHD .
retrorack.com.au/Power-Steering-Rack-Kits/rhd-retrorack-kits
@@phatridesgarage3760 Thanks much for a speedy reply will post some pics of my 57 when done thanks again keep the channel going very informative I’m a fan
No worries mate and thanks for watching !@@kimmat40
Hey Tom are the top ball joints sitting correctly?
Yeah they are in hard, I wondered myself why the shaft didnt completely disappear into the spindle casting, will be checking more into it later though. There is a channel called Maffett Motorwerks, they do a Ridetech installation on a 55 Chevy, seems to look the same as mine ie, little bit of ball joint shaft showing above the spindle casting
@PHATRIDES Garage the last thing I wanna see is that it comes loose after all that marvellous work you've done to it.
Haha, cheers mate !
That a kiwi accent? I'm a kiwi based in states. Wheres your shop based?
Thats right mate) im based in south west Sydney
right on! I thought you might be in the states because of the left hand drive cars I was seeing in there.
@@markweston3345 ahh ok no worries 😌 glad to have you watching cheers