As a toolmaker/machinist of over 40 years, I can appreciate what you're doing here. However, unless it's for demonstration purposes, why not bring the spring compressor/scale down until you're on the base of the unit, then just set your caliper on the compressor to zero, then move to the proper dimension, in this case 1.850. Then subtract lift from 1.850 to arrive at lbs open figure? I personally don't like using telescope gauges, because they always "spring back approx .001". Probably good enough for this application, however.
Could you use the snap gauge and compress the spring ubtil you reach desired pressure, then measure gauge and subtract from the original installed height and add that many shims?
Should have a .125" washer on the inner spring to imitate the 1/8" step on the retainer - other than that the pressure won't be accurate. The inner spring rides on the step not the outer edge of the retainer
I was watching this on my TV and came on my phone to check the comments. I was thinking the same thing. Need to have that upper retainer plate on for the inner spring.
Great info. Looks like a pain in the ass though to do both heads. The Engine builders who complete all the proper steps do no charge enough in my opinion.
need longer valve to make it higher ! or special spring to work with what your max height is now and see if the spring pressure and coil bind works with you build
As a toolmaker/machinist of over 40 years, I can appreciate what you're doing here. However, unless it's for demonstration purposes, why not bring the spring compressor/scale down until you're on the base of the unit, then just set your caliper on the compressor to zero, then move to the proper dimension, in this case 1.850. Then subtract lift from 1.850 to arrive at lbs open figure? I personally don't like using telescope gauges, because they always "spring back approx .001". Probably good enough for this application, however.
Could you use the snap gauge and compress the spring ubtil you reach desired pressure, then measure gauge and subtract from the original installed height and add that many shims?
Should have a .125" washer on the inner spring to imitate the 1/8" step on the retainer - other than that the pressure won't be accurate. The inner spring rides on the step not the outer edge of the retainer
yeah facts when ever you are dealing with dual springs you need to measure with retainer
I was watching this on my TV and came on my phone to check the comments. I was thinking the same thing. Need to have that upper retainer plate on for the inner spring.
That’s why I never use digital measuring tools.
Still need locator cups for steel heads?
Awesome video sir. Going to give this a try myself
What about the valve seal?
Great info. Looks like a pain in the ass though to do both heads. The Engine builders who complete all the proper steps do no charge enough in my opinion.
What info is included with the cam so that you will know what the specs are?
i have so much to learn
Do you have to do this for each valve and spring
Yes you should be doing it for every one because of machine tolerances. But hopefully its close
what is the installed height is to short ?
need longer valve to make it higher ! or special spring to work with what your max height is now and see if the spring pressure and coil bind works with you build
They sell +.050 locks. And some applications also have increased height retainers. Watch for rocker arm clearance
Great video. Learned something!
Or you could use a $50 Valve spring height micrometer like a normal engine builder ....
Hes also verifying seat pressure and coil bind
Like a real engine buulder should be doing
@@KingJT80 Shhhh, the adults are talking.
A few eBay tools don't make you a engine builder....
@@jasperpipes4222 says the guy who couldnt even beat this guy in a foot race..lol
Dump that junk mic and get a none digital mic. That's the first thing.