Emily Malfoy I think it has to do with the background of Bob before he did I Like To Make Stuff fulltime and quit his job. I also like it because he doesn't mind to compare it, to make other brands maybe look bad. Really good reviews!
Hey Bob, looks like you're seeing the same print quality issues my R17 has. It's mostly a software thing, right now the profiles for Simplify 3D do a much better job at getting you crisp prints, and BCN3D are also working hard in getting the R17 integrated into Cura 2. I've already got mine working with Cura 2 and the print quality difference is amazing! Definitely on par with the UM3 now.
Sweet! I'd love to see that integration. I need to test more in Simplify.. I just seem to gravitate towards Cura as it's so simple and straightforward.
great to see you here aswell thomas^^ just curious: did you get flexible filaments to work on your R17? cuz you are kinda my 3D-printing-guru of choice and i remember you mentioning that bowden setups are mostly unsuited for flexible filaments.
Cura (specifically 2) is my favorite slicer at the moment - it's as powerful as you want it to be and it produces great prints! I did manage to print even Filaflex on my Sigma, which is much softer than Ninjaflex. Not quite with the settings BCN3D was providing at the time, but with speeds lowered a bit it worked perfectly!
Yeah, I would REALLY love it if 3d printer reviewers to stop using simplify3D on their reviews. They aren't really reviewing the 3d printer itself as they are using another payed 3rd party component (software) in the review. Especially if the review is on a "budget" printer/kit, S3D adds another $150! thats like half the price of the entire kit they just reviewed! I also agree how wonderful it would be if everyone would donate $150 to open source slicers instead. Maybe someone would have enough support to help ultimaker make Cura2 more accesible again! (Delta printer support among others)
Hey Bob! I really appreciate your not biased in your reviews of sponsored products. Really great stuff your doing on this channel, keep up the great work!
I always find these reviews the most helpful, completely genuine with supporting advantages and disadvantages to both products. Makes 3D printing look extremely appealing to myself. Unfortunately due to the price they are, I won't be getting into the hobby for a while aha. Good job Bob.
Hi Bob I print with ninjaflex myself and the settings I use are 20mm/s 241degrees celcius, cooling fans off. Heated bed at 40 degrees. And turn off retraction + print at 200micron I hope this will help you out👍🏼
Some advice getting your prints to stick, smear on a decent amount of wood glue on your glass bed. Let it dry and print with the heated bed @ 50 degrees celcius. Happy printing.
@Iltms Prusa I3 mk2 comes with PEI covering directly on print bed, no need for silly glass or tape. If you do really want to print PLA on glass though you need slightly warmer bed to ensure its above the glass transition temp. I used about 65 deg to print on the MK1 glass bed.
Yup, I've got a review of the MK2 on my channel from a while back. It's a fantastic printer. I may add that here in the future, but it didn't come standard so I didn't want to cover it in the review.
Bill Doran (Punished Props) did a video where he did the two types of filament like you attempted. If you watch his video he had to do some VERY specific things to make it work.
I'm french, but your video explains very well the difference between the 2 3D printers. And your previous video was fantastic !!! You have very good ideas and I will try to make the same "Ravioli Rolling Pin" !!! Keep this way you are perfect !!
Bob, I have had tons of success using Ninja flex on a MakerGear M2. While not a high end printer, I feel the settings would be similar. Some key things: higher extrusion temp, usually around 220°C and slow extrusion and travel speeds. The slower the extrusion speed the less likely the material will get caught in the Extruder motor.
I use Finesse Firm Hold hair spray on my 3D printers. It's the only hair spray I've had success with. It makes the prints stick amazingly and it cleans off easily when you're done.
Aaaahh I was caught off guard with the upload date of the video,is this gonna be two videos in a week? Oh and great revieww for the 3d printer, would like to get one but I'm broke
Hey Bob, great video! Printing ninjaflex truly is quite a bit more difficult than regular PLA. In general, you need to print WAY slower than normal. When i've printed it, I usually run it at ~15mm/s which is on a direct drive machine, as opposed to the ultimaker and sigma which use bowden systems. If you still can't get it, try giving the nozzle temps a bump. I'm aware you probably have already found this, but anyway, great job!
I would love to see you make a billiards/pool table. I have seen others do that, but would love to see how you approach that. This doesn't have to be one video. Maybe a mini-series?
When Ive tried using ninja flex in the past, My gnarled bolt would clog. Luckily someone came up with a tighter back plate that allowed for the filament to be pulled but not clog like a wet noodle. Ive had success with hanging the filament above the printer letting gravity and loose tension feed the ninja flex into the machine. those 2 steps really enhanced my ability to print NF but also Its a slower print. you cant rush it. Hope that 2 cents helps.
Nice video :) one small tip about printing with the ninja flex filament , You should change the speed of the print to very slow speed (15mm/s or even 10 mm/s). And if you use cura as your slicer program change the initial speed too.(I use cura too and it took me a day and half to find the initial print speed is the problem why my prints fails xD)
Yeah, I use Cura almost exclusively and have played with recommended speeds from some people who got it working great.. just no luck for me yet. I need to get back to testing it though.
Great review... I just got into 3D printing with a little crappy 154$ prusa clone kit from ebay... been an interesting learning experience... these 3k$ printers are a little out of my price range, but it's impressive to see the quality they can churn out. 🤓👍
the waste hopper is similar to the older Statysys Dimension 768 sst printers that i use. its a dual extruder head with soluble support material and model material. from what i can guess, from watching my printers work, is that the print head will pull the material back from the hot end so it doesnt ooze while not being used and when its time for it to print again it feeds filament back into the hot end but it purges some extra so theres no chance of an air bubble causing loss of extrusion on the new layer. the sigma is the first printer ive seen that does this aside from industrial printers.
For flex material you can try to print without retraction and really slow (15mm/sec). Maker's Muse has a great video for printing flex on stock hardware...
Cool vid, I'm looking to get started in 3d printing. Could you maybe do some sort of beginner printer (like a Anet A8/6, Prusa i3 etc). Btw, hang on to these tests, I like em
Typically you cannot print flexibles on a machine that has the extruder (part that pushes filament) separated from the carriage (part that moves) as it is much harder to push it through the teflon tube (plastic tube filament goes through). It should work on the Prusa i3 Mk2 though (not the ultimaker as it uses the same setup).
Yes, it definitely works better with a direct feed printer. I was surprised to see others with it working so well, which was why i was interested in trying it.
Good review, Bob! I am digging the 2 video per week format! You mentioned printing two different kinds of materials at the same time, but I am wondering if you have ever tried to print anything besides plastic? I saw some printers at CES that printed alternatives like Kevlar, for example.
Most desktop 3D printers use only thermoplastics. There are a lot of cool infused ones, though, like bronze or carbon fiber - you can check them out here: www.matterhackers.com/store/3d-printer-filament
MatterHackers Thanks, MatterHackers. :) I'd love to start making things with printers, I have a notebook full of projects, and even plans to produce content for them, but I don't have the printer yet. :) Hopefully soon.
MatterHackers absolutely, and when the times comes, you're def where I'll be going thanks to Bob. However, with a wedding coming up, just bought a house, need a new car, etc, etc. It's just not in the budget right now. :( Plus a new table saw is first. :/
Hey, Bob! You should check out the Snapmaker 3D printer on Kickstarter. It is a super simple design and looks awesome! The best part is that it is modular and allows for laser engraving and CNC carving along with 3D printing. I think there's only a few days left in the Kickstarter campaign, but I'm sure they'll be available after it's over. I'm seriously considering getting one, but it's hard to justify on my college-student budget haha. Luckily, they're super affordable. Keep up the great videos! I love watching, and I tell everyone about your channel 👌🏼
Jonatan Den Breejen well they have raised almost 1.9 million dollars out of their $50,000 goal, so either a lot of people are about to get ripped off or a lot of people are going to be really impressed. For $299, I don't see how one could be THAT upset if the printer wasn't phenomenonal. But you should check it out to see what you think. Cause just based on the campaign, it looks legit.
Caleb Lee just search Google "tiko 3d printer" that printer was also on kickstarter and a lot of people bought it on kickstarter but everything sucked about it. If it looks too good to be true it is
You state that it wastes alot of material during dual print as the extruders return to their home position and drop filament into the bucket. Other dual extrusion printers, for example the Ultimaker 3, have to build (i'm not sure what the term is but) a scrap tower to clean the nozzles after every layer while dual printing. Does the bucket really accumulate more scrap then the tower?
In the end, it's probably the same as the tower (I really don't know). It just looks like a lots because it's all loose and wild in that area vs a neat little condensed tower. I just feel like they could improve it.. I could be wrong.
I want to get a 3D printer, although I'm afraid I wouldn't stop making things with it if I ever got one. Would make some projects waaaaayyy easier though
Bob Try using Buildtak on the base..one of the best platform material for 3d print to stick on and remove.. I had no issue with it for more than 50 over prints on my 3d printer.
That looks pretty awesome! I do have a question though, when a company sends you a printer do you use it and make a review of some kind, then send it back or do you keep it?
Was there also some idk like shrinkage? on the Yoda? Sigma seemed a bit smaller than the other one? Other than that seems like a good option specially of its a 1000 dlls cheaper. Great video man!
It looks like you used different material to print the test Yoda’s. If you truly want an equal comparison you should print from the same material and I mean the same exact roll of material. Not just the same color from the same maker but the same exact roll... You should also follow a the same drying procedure before each print to ensure water absorption doesn’t change anything either.
So the Ultimaker 3 is better quality? Thanks. I seriously don't understand why one would settle for a lower quality printer. Hell, what's the point of FDM anyway with DLP/SLA coming along?
Well, it's a minor quality difference for a $1000 cost difference. It really depends on what you value more. Also, SLA has a LONG way to go before it can compete in all areas with FDM. Build area, material cost, machine cost are all still not up there yet.
We carry a lot of printers - check out the Pulse printer. It's a great starting point, and really affordable: www.matterhackers.com/store/printer-kits/pulse-3d-printer
Hi, I bought tronxy p802m from aliexpress for 120USD, which is basically clone of anet a8 which is a clone of prusa i3. It was the cheapest one I could find. I had few problems at the beginning (frame was uneven but easy to fix by screwing printer to board). I totally recommend that (or anet a8) for the first printer. I watched some vids comparing its quality and I can't say bad word for it. For 120USD its quality is amazing :) Melzi board looses USB connection software like astroprint or octoprint - stops midprint. If you swap melzi for ramps and atmega it will work, its on TODO list :)
to be honest: dont even bother trying to get ninjaflex printed in this printer... due to the bowden setup its almost a lost cause or at least requires a whole f***ton of tweaking parameters! flexible filaments just work way better with direct drive extrusion setups edit: ok scrap this comment... my fingers were faster than my brain on this one.
Hey mister im interested to buy one of those 3D printer could you tell me witch one is the best for me i want to start making some stuff props etc to sell it something cheap to start but still the best of the cheapest less then 1000$ i guess would be a good start i don't mind repairing little mistake thanks in advance (i plan making a shoretrooper helmet and armor like you did for soft air etc)
World of Tanks Paradise The popular choices currently are the MonoPrice Select Mini or the Anet A8. Anet is more for the DIY aspect since it is a kit build. Its rough out of the box, but can become really good with some time and effort. Select mini has a lot of the great features of a more expensive printer, but the downside is the smaller print surface (about 5 inches cubed). If you are looking for pre assembled, I definitely recommend the Select Mini
Yes, from what I have heard the Select Mini sounds like the best choice for me. I am planning on purchasing the V2 when it is released this month. Thank you for the help. :D
As far as I understand, the gcode will still only run them one at a time. You could theoretically have each one print it's own pieces, but it wouldn't happen at the same time.
![Megan Thee Stallion - Mamushi (Remix) [feat. TWICE] [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5c0_u9PsrsQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I love how thorough you are with your reviews. They're really helpful!
Thanks so much!
you should look at dave hakkens project plastic, it would be really cool to see your take on his project
Emily Malfoy I think it has to do with the background of Bob before he did I Like To Make Stuff fulltime and quit his job.
I also like it because he doesn't mind to compare it, to make other brands maybe look bad. Really good reviews!
Hey Bob, looks like you're seeing the same print quality issues my R17 has. It's mostly a software thing, right now the profiles for Simplify 3D do a much better job at getting you crisp prints, and BCN3D are also working hard in getting the R17 integrated into Cura 2.
I've already got mine working with Cura 2 and the print quality difference is amazing! Definitely on par with the UM3 now.
Sweet! I'd love to see that integration. I need to test more in Simplify.. I just seem to gravitate towards Cura as it's so simple and straightforward.
great to see you here aswell thomas^^ just curious: did you get flexible filaments to work on your R17? cuz you are kinda my 3D-printing-guru of choice and i remember you mentioning that bowden setups are mostly unsuited for flexible filaments.
Cura (specifically 2) is my favorite slicer at the moment - it's as powerful as you want it to be and it produces great prints!
I did manage to print even Filaflex on my Sigma, which is much softer than Ninjaflex. Not quite with the settings BCN3D was providing at the time, but with speeds lowered a bit it worked perfectly!
Yeah, I would REALLY love it if 3d printer reviewers to stop using simplify3D on their reviews. They aren't really reviewing the 3d printer itself as they are using another payed 3rd party component (software) in the review. Especially if the review is on a "budget" printer/kit, S3D adds another $150! thats like half the price of the entire kit they just reviewed!
I also agree how wonderful it would be if everyone would donate $150 to open source slicers instead. Maybe someone would have enough support to help ultimaker make Cura2 more accesible again! (Delta printer support among others)
it is amazing considering (atleast where i live) it is less then half the price 2000euro versus 5000euro for the ultimaker.
Hey Bob! I really appreciate your not biased in your reviews of sponsored products. Really great stuff your doing on this channel, keep up the great work!
Finaly more 3d printing stuff on this channel!! love your videos, keep on making them and making more 3d printing videos!!
Hi bob ! How are you? I loved how you always do unbiased reviews whether sponsored or not.
Thanks! I do my best to be realistic and honest about these things.. otherwise they're not worth much.
I always find these reviews the most helpful, completely genuine with supporting advantages and disadvantages to both products. Makes 3D printing look extremely appealing to myself. Unfortunately due to the price they are, I won't be getting into the hobby for a while aha. Good job Bob.
Check out our site - we have some really affordable ones, like the Pulse: www.matterhackers.com/store/printer-kits/pulse-3d-printer
Hi Bob I print with ninjaflex myself and the settings I use are 20mm/s
241degrees celcius, cooling fans off.
Heated bed at 40 degrees. And turn off retraction + print at 200micron
I hope this will help you out👍🏼
Thanks!
Jeez 2 weeks in a row there's been extra videos. Go Bob!
I love all of you're Project Sand reviews. It's so high quality.
what I love in bob is that he try to read and answer all the comments
I can't get them all, but I do my best!
Bob, You always go into detail in your reviews and they are always really helpful.
That's great to hear, thanks Dan!
Some advice getting your prints to stick, smear on a decent amount of wood glue on your glass bed. Let it dry and print with the heated bed @ 50 degrees celcius. Happy printing.
@Iltms Prusa I3 mk2 comes with PEI covering directly on print bed, no need for silly glass or tape. If you do really want to print PLA on glass though you need slightly warmer bed to ensure its above the glass transition temp. I used about 65 deg to print on the MK1 glass bed.
Yup, I've got a review of the MK2 on my channel from a while back. It's a fantastic printer. I may add that here in the future, but it didn't come standard so I didn't want to cover it in the review.
Bill Doran (Punished Props) did a video where he did the two types of filament like you attempted. If you watch his video he had to do some VERY specific things to make it work.
I'm french, but your video explains very well the difference between the 2 3D printers. And your previous video was fantastic !!! You have very good ideas and I will try to make the same "Ravioli Rolling Pin" !!! Keep this way you are perfect !!
Bob, I have had tons of success using Ninja flex on a MakerGear M2. While not a high end printer, I feel the settings would be similar. Some key things: higher extrusion temp, usually around 220°C and slow extrusion and travel speeds. The slower the extrusion speed the less likely the material will get caught in the Extruder motor.
Nice video. Loved the way Yoda came out, I couldn't tell a difference between the two prints.
Thanks! Yeah, it's very subtle.
Jack Alexander I preferred the slightly rougher appearance the sigma printer produced.
I think if you lower the speed of the Sigma and tweak some of the settings in the Slicer it will have the same smooth finish of the Ultimaker. ☺️
Awesome review! So glad I waited before making a purchase. Thank-you for your insight and advice. I plan on purchasing one of these within the week.
I use Finesse Firm Hold hair spray on my 3D printers. It's the only hair spray I've had success with. It makes the prints stick amazingly and it cleans off easily when you're done.
Aaaahh I was caught off guard with the upload date of the video,is this gonna be two videos in a week? Oh and great revieww for the 3d printer, would like to get one but I'm broke
Hey Bob, great video! Printing ninjaflex truly is quite a bit more difficult than regular PLA. In general, you need to print WAY slower than normal. When i've printed it, I usually run it at ~15mm/s which is on a direct drive machine, as opposed to the ultimaker and sigma which use bowden systems. If you still can't get it, try giving the nozzle temps a bump. I'm aware you probably have already found this, but anyway, great job!
I would love to see you make a billiards/pool table. I have seen others do that, but would love to see how you approach that.
This doesn't have to be one video. Maybe a mini-series?
Thanks for the fantastically honest review!
When Ive tried using ninja flex in the past, My gnarled bolt would clog. Luckily someone came up with a tighter back plate that allowed for the filament to be pulled but not clog like a wet noodle. Ive had success with hanging the filament above the printer letting gravity and loose tension feed the ninja flex into the machine. those 2 steps really enhanced my ability to print NF but also Its a slower print. you cant rush it. Hope that 2 cents helps.
Nice video :)
one small tip about printing with the ninja flex filament , You should change the speed of the print to very slow speed (15mm/s or even 10 mm/s).
And if you use cura as your slicer program change the initial speed too.(I use cura too and it took me a day and half to find the initial print speed is the problem why my prints fails xD)
Yeah, I use Cura almost exclusively and have played with recommended speeds from some people who got it working great.. just no luck for me yet. I need to get back to testing it though.
Good Luck :)
Great review... I just got into 3D printing with a little crappy 154$ prusa clone kit from ebay... been an interesting learning experience... these 3k$ printers are a little out of my price range, but it's impressive to see the quality they can churn out. 🤓👍
the waste hopper is similar to the older Statysys Dimension 768 sst printers that i use. its a dual extruder head with soluble support material and model material. from what i can guess, from watching my printers work, is that the print head will pull the material back from the hot end so it doesnt ooze while not being used and when its time for it to print again it feeds filament back into the hot end but it purges some extra so theres no chance of an air bubble causing loss of extrusion on the new layer. the sigma is the first printer ive seen that does this aside from industrial printers.
i forgot to type my point. i think the waste is a necessary evil for consistent print quality.
Yeah, you might be right about that.
For flex material you can try to print without retraction and really slow (15mm/sec).
Maker's Muse has a great video for printing flex on stock hardware...
Cool vid, I'm looking to get started in 3d printing. Could you maybe do some sort of beginner printer (like a Anet A8/6, Prusa i3 etc).
Btw, hang on to these tests, I like em
Thanks! I actually did one of these on the i3 a while back, check that one out. It's a great printer!
I Like To Make Stuff man, that's gotta be some time ago. I thought I'd seen all of your vids.
And thanks for the reply Bob
Hi! If you are interested in getting started, feel free to contact us for any questions that you may have - support@matterhackers.com.
You collect 3D printers like Jimmy Diresta collects band saws.
Hahah! I also give them away sometimes ;)
I Like To Make Stuff oh oh, me pick me! :)
No, I think that honor belongs to me ;)
Brian Robb yeah cuz you don't have ANY at all! haha
Prime Technophilia the only time I get free printers is... In my dreams! haha
Thanks for the review, hope for more in the future
Hey Bob ! Thanks for this review. You can use glue stick or 3DLac to fix your first layer on your glass bed :)
Typically you cannot print flexibles on a machine that has the extruder (part that pushes filament) separated from the carriage (part that moves) as it is much harder to push it through the teflon tube (plastic tube filament goes through). It should work on the Prusa i3 Mk2 though (not the ultimaker as it uses the same setup).
Yes, it definitely works better with a direct feed printer. I was surprised to see others with it working so well, which was why i was interested in trying it.
Sometimes less flexible filaments can work better such as SemiFlex so you may want to try that.
I'll check into that.. thanks!
You should make a video on how to make a 3d printer shelf!
Good review, Bob! I am digging the 2 video per week format!
You mentioned printing two different kinds of materials at the same time, but I am wondering if you have ever tried to print anything besides plastic? I saw some printers at CES that printed alternatives like Kevlar, for example.
Thanks! Everything I've tried is plastic based, even if it's infilled with something else.
Most desktop 3D printers use only thermoplastics. There are a lot of cool infused ones, though, like bronze or carbon fiber - you can check them out here: www.matterhackers.com/store/3d-printer-filament
MatterHackers Thanks, MatterHackers. :)
I'd love to start making things with printers, I have a notebook full of projects, and even plans to produce content for them, but I don't have the printer yet. :) Hopefully soon.
We definitely have some affordable printers on our site - check them out: www.matterhackers.com/store/printer-kits
MatterHackers absolutely, and when the times comes, you're def where I'll be going thanks to Bob.
However, with a wedding coming up, just bought a house, need a new car, etc, etc. It's just not in the budget right now. :( Plus a new table saw is first. :/
Hey, Bob! You should check out the Snapmaker 3D printer on Kickstarter. It is a super simple design and looks awesome! The best part is that it is modular and allows for laser engraving and CNC carving along with 3D printing. I think there's only a few days left in the Kickstarter campaign, but I'm sure they'll be available after it's over. I'm seriously considering getting one, but it's hard to justify on my college-student budget haha. Luckily, they're super affordable. Keep up the great videos! I love watching, and I tell everyone about your channel 👌🏼
Caleb Lee don't get a kick starter printer, all previous printers that were on kickstarter sucked
Jonatan Den Breejen well they have raised almost 1.9 million dollars out of their $50,000 goal, so either a lot of people are about to get ripped off or a lot of people are going to be really impressed. For $299, I don't see how one could be THAT upset if the printer wasn't phenomenonal. But you should check it out to see what you think. Cause just based on the campaign, it looks legit.
Caleb Lee just search Google "tiko 3d printer" that printer was also on kickstarter and a lot of people bought it on kickstarter but everything sucked about it.
If it looks too good to be true it is
I've got a Geeetech Prusa i3 printer I still need to assemble. Hope it'll be a nice experience. Though for €200 you can't complain too much.
You state that it wastes alot of material during dual print as the extruders return to their home position and drop filament into the bucket. Other dual extrusion printers, for example the Ultimaker 3, have to build (i'm not sure what the term is but) a scrap tower to clean the nozzles after every layer while dual printing. Does the bucket really accumulate more scrap then the tower?
In the end, it's probably the same as the tower (I really don't know). It just looks like a lots because it's all loose and wild in that area vs a neat little condensed tower. I just feel like they could improve it.. I could be wrong.
Just a FYI, blue painter's tape is a common adhesion method and I don't think is a sore mark on the quality of the printer.
I agree, I don't think it's a bad thing, I was just surprised that I couldn't get anything to stick to the glass alone.
Ah ok lol. Love your videos btw.
Good review - appreciate the honesty.
I want to get a 3D printer, although I'm afraid I wouldn't stop making things with it if I ever got one. Would make some projects waaaaayyy easier though
I don't foresee ever having a 3D printer but they sure are cool!
Everyone needs a 3D printer :)
Bob Try using Buildtak on the base..one of the best platform material for 3d print to stick on and remove.. I had no issue with it for more than 50 over prints on my 3d printer.
I like to watch 3D printing like is you like this 3D printer
3D printers are awesome! Check out our channel if you want to learn more about them!
Could we get a layout of your work shop? You seem to have a very functional set up and I'm interested in seeing how you mannage your floor space.
+Leo Grove I've got a 360 shop tour on my channel that might help you get a better idea of the layout. Thanks!
That looks pretty awesome! I do have a question though, when a company sends you a printer do you use it and make a review of some kind, then send it back or do you keep it?
This is a neat printer!
I wish I could afford one, but for now I will work on my Flux 3DP.
Great review
Just print Flexible very, very slow and it will work just fine with almost all Bowden style Printers.
Aw Hell! Now I have to add a 3D printer to my wish list, my wife won't be happy ;) Good review Bob very thorough!
:) Thanks!
To get it to stick to the print bed, use Elmer's glue sticks or similar.
You do great videos but maybe to like a workshop tour and love your videos
Was there also some idk like shrinkage? on the Yoda? Sigma seemed a bit smaller than the other one? Other than that seems like a good option specially of its a 1000 dlls cheaper.
Great video man!
No, I had scaled it down to 90% on accident. It was close enough that I didn't feel the need to reprint.
ah!! cool cool ! thanks
It looks like you used different material to print the test Yoda’s. If you truly want an equal comparison you should print from the same material and I mean the same exact roll of material. Not just the same color from the same maker but the same exact roll... You should also follow a the same drying procedure before each print to ensure water absorption doesn’t change anything either.
Hi Bob, you should use BuildTak instead of blue tape. it's much better ;)
you can change the speed that is why the quallity changes on the yodas
nice 3D printer, build and designed in Barcelona
Could you make a race car track? That would be cool!
So the Ultimaker 3 is better quality? Thanks. I seriously don't understand why one would settle for a lower quality printer. Hell, what's the point of FDM anyway with DLP/SLA coming along?
Well, it's a minor quality difference for a $1000 cost difference. It really depends on what you value more. Also, SLA has a LONG way to go before it can compete in all areas with FDM. Build area, material cost, machine cost are all still not up there yet.
make a filament extruder to recycle the purges
maybe it is just the filament that they gave you that won't stick to maybe the other filaments will stick to the glass
Whats the Yoda headcount up to now Bob? Enough for a Jedi council full? xD
:) 5 or 6 of them floating around!
Are the duel printer heads on two separate conveyor systems? Could you print two separate items at once?
What would you recommend as a good first 3D printer?
We carry a lot of printers - check out the Pulse printer. It's a great starting point, and really affordable: www.matterhackers.com/store/printer-kits/pulse-3d-printer
Hi, I bought tronxy p802m from aliexpress for 120USD, which is basically clone of anet a8 which is a clone of prusa i3. It was the cheapest one I could find. I had few problems at the beginning (frame was uneven but easy to fix by screwing printer to board). I totally recommend that (or anet a8) for the first printer. I watched some vids comparing its quality and I can't say bad word for it. For 120USD its quality is amazing :) Melzi board looses USB connection software like astroprint or octoprint - stops midprint. If you swap melzi for ramps and atmega it will work, its on TODO list :)
Brilliant, Thanks!
I could get used to this two videos a week thing.
:) I'm trying it out. Not sure if I can sustain it or not yet.
Are the Yodas printed with the same filament? Do you know for sure that it's the printer that makes the difference?
Yeah, both Matterhackers PRO PLA.
Would be cool if you could experiment a bit with the hot-end temperature. A setting of 200 degrees might not be the same temperature on both printers.
Why don't you make your own fidget spinner? Maybe design it online and 3D print it just slotting in the bearings?
to be honest: dont even bother trying to get ninjaflex printed in this printer... due to the bowden setup its almost a lost cause or at least requires a whole f***ton of tweaking parameters!
flexible filaments just work way better with direct drive extrusion setups
edit: ok scrap this comment... my fingers were faster than my brain on this one.
ever used dual to print a more correct looking woodgrain?
I have notifications on ur channel
Awesome!
I see all ur videos right when they post
Fantastic.
So what's the cooling system like? I have an Anet A8 but I might get another
Awesome video:)
why does it clean the hot ends every time if each one only outputs only one color?
Hey mister im interested to buy one of those 3D printer could you tell me witch one is the best for me i want to start making some stuff props etc to sell it something cheap to start but still the best of the cheapest less then 1000$ i guess would be a good start i don't mind repairing little mistake thanks in advance (i plan making a shoretrooper helmet and armor like you did for soft air etc)
hey bob how you doing
Good man, how about you?
Hi Bob!!!
why didn't you tell how much it cost, just that it's 1000 dollars less than that other one, or maybe i just didn't hear it
Would you recommend this over the TAZ 6 with a dual extrusion head?
Honestly, I've never had the chance to use a Taz, so I can't say (although I'd love to test one out!)
"look at the difference between these two yodas"
*constantly shakes both of them*
"Shakes" might be an overstatement, but yes.. next time I'll set them on a surface. :)
Which sub-$250 printer would you recommend (preferably preassembled)?
World of Tanks Paradise The popular choices currently are the MonoPrice Select Mini or the Anet A8. Anet is more for the DIY aspect since it is a kit build. Its rough out of the box, but can become really good with some time and effort. Select mini has a lot of the great features of a more expensive printer, but the downside is the smaller print surface (about 5 inches cubed). If you are looking for pre assembled, I definitely recommend the Select Mini
Yes, from what I have heard the Select Mini sounds like the best choice for me. I am planning on purchasing the V2 when it is released this month. Thank you for the help. :D
hi bob what's the background music?
Hi! Just a loop that I made.
Can u send me the link I really love the song
I'd like a download aswell.
I thought the point of this channel was to inspire you to be original Itz_Ya_Boi_Cheezy and Julian...
Good point...
hey Bob
could you make fidget spinner using the 3d printer
fidget spinner is trending right now so why don't you give it a try
i miss ur wood work videos😢
I have two questions
could I make my own 3D printer with less than a 100$ using arduino? and if I could, HOW?!
Aaron Tena buy a €150 anet a8
Bob, may I learn your watch's model in this video?
amzn.to/2q8C3rY
Thank you! :)
Can it print two copies of the same model at the same time using the two extruders?
As far as I understand, the gcode will still only run them one at a time. You could theoretically have each one print it's own pieces, but it wouldn't happen at the same time.
Hmm, sounds like an annoying software limitation but how often do you need two identical parts anyway...
Do we really need pc for the 3D printer
Maybe the reason it doesn't stick is because of the filament
Great printer. Would love to win it. Willy
how is it going?
Gotta catch'em all
...the printers
soooo you have 5 3d printers now
unboxers should be thorough like him.Am just saying.
And where is the crash test itself?🙃
You are The best
what best 3d software for the Windows 10?
Hi Bob
hi
Hi bob