Man, times really change fast. Back in 2015 the only cheapest 3d printer cost 400$, was made of plywood, and required constant tinkering. And now people bash on companies for not making their 150$ ender 3 clone plug-and-play. Nice review btw.
Raise3D E2 … It's also IDEX, print volume is only 330mm in width, but it comes with autolevel, with a camera, uses 1.75mm filament, is enclosed and more silent. *AND* about 25% cheaper…
If you are thinking to buy this machine, you should first check out the Raise 3D E2. It is also an idex but has a lot of features that BCN 3D has not such as flexplate, direct drive and bed mesh. We have both and we regret the BCN3D printer a lot and wish that we would have had 2 E2s instead.
@Albert Navarro Balcells i think I did this machine a disservice, I don't own a d25, I have the much earlier r17, which although uses many of the same high quality components (genuine hiwin rails, e3d hotends), there were quality issues a few years ago (a few lemons got through) , and bcn3d have taken down the old forums of people trying to solve their issues, because unfortunately after warranty runs out its expensive machine, with high tolerances to work on at home without the right tools. Like steel mounts for the rails not being deburred causing the rails to not be parallel causing the self leveling routine to get stuck at the front of the bed, motor brackets holding z leadscrew not being square leading to z banding, there was a whole heap of early issues. Plus this machine was advertised to be upto 3 times faster because using idex, u could use different size nozzles on the same print small to do Detail, large to do the rest, sounds great if the software, stls, slicers made that a trivial bit operation for the average user. The colour printing is excellent, although a bit slow compared to today's machines, but to accuse people of not knowing about 3d printing is not really considering other peoples experiences. I hope you find the d25 to be a real work horse, then all the troubleshooting us users learnt about wouldn't have been without use.
Great review. I love that you didn't overlook the small flaws, as someone can always choose to ignore them if it doesn't bother them. It would be good to see a comparison to the Raise3D E2 or Pro2, which seems to be their closest competitors.
I don't understand the strategy of making such an expensive printer without auto bed leveling. My assumption is that when someone buys something like this he's expecing it to be most plug and play as possible. Am I missing something?
I've reached a conclusion its deliberately poor design and lack of features to maximise profit. Of course if people just stopped buying them, then companies would stop producing them this way...will we ever learn?
I used the raise 3d pro 2? It's a 5k printer with no auto leveling. We had to print a Guage bracket to actually get it to level correctly. After that it was fine for a while. But a horrible experience non the less.
I had some R17 and R19 and participated a lot on the community to be one of the first to have bondtech/E3d in 1,75mm switched on it But sincerely I do not recommend to anyone to buy this printed and any from BCN3d Many hardware problems: thermal issue on bed, leveling is pain in the ass, etc etc, it is very weird that they didn’t change it! And the worst they don’t Care of support old printer, when they go on the market with new one the old one do not have anymore FW upgrade etc etc Better to buy a UM if industrial purpose is necessary, a PRUSA for bedlevelling and reliability, or a VORON if you are not afraid to work on it and want the best BCN3D is Not reliable as a 3d printer company
You say this is a very innovative machine, but somehow it feels quite dated to me. Using glue stick on a glass bed, no ABL on a large printer, 3mm filament, painfully slow speeds, those are things that even cheap printers have moved past at this point. The only way they can get by with that is by having a niche product and a good sales department. Also, I would love to see you print flexible materials with those super long Bowden tubes :D
Im gonna defend the gluestick. I just use it for everything as it always works. evne on my PEI flex plates. Its the most reliable way of ALWAYS having the prints stick. for the rest I Agree
@@jbergene If there was a PEI sheet, you'd at least have the option. For PLA and ABS I always print directly on it with great success. The only times I use glue stick is with PETG, more as a release layer though to protect the PEI. The great thing about options is that if you prefer glue stick, you can always add that.
I've been printing for over a year now, on both delta and carthesian printers, never had to use any kind of adhesive for the prints to stick. I used stock aluminum ender 3 plate, upgraded magnetic, and a glass bed.
We have 3 BCN3D Epsilon W50s at work and I would suggest avoiding these machines. The bed leveling feature is useless unless you adjust the mesh bed level by hand so the bed adhesion is incredibly inconsistent. The machines are not rigid and have lots of moving mass so they're slow. The long bowden filament path paired with the 3mm filament also gives pretty underwhelming print quality compared to a prusa. We've also seen catastrophic jams and failures a few times with the bowden tube being ejected in one case. One of our three machines can't be connected to the internet at all so we can't use the cloud printing feature and after months the issue still hasn't been resolved. The dual extrusion performance also wasn't great out of the box though that may be a tuning issue in part.
Nice review. Just two things: @5:28 There is also the (infamous) vivedino/formbot IDEX T-Rex 3 (400x400x500mm³) BTW: With a 230V heated bed. @7:28 There was no problem to create copy/mirror mode profiles for PrusaSlicer and without digging into the slicer's code. So no need for forking.
Perfect - this is exactly the type of review that we need. One point regarding large printers, the MakerGear UltraOne has a 16” by 14” by 13” bed, dual independent extruders and is far below the Stratasys price range, Thanks for the comprehensive, balanced review.
I think there is actually some practical meanings of using the 2.85mm filament, because of the bowden setup of this machine as well as for the Ultimaker machines. Their extruders are far away from the hotend, driving a 1.75mm flexible filament, like the NinjaFlex or the Essentium TPU80A, will be quite difficult, however the 2.85mm filament will be a bit more “stiff” and makes it easier to be pushed through the long bowden tube.
I agree, and for printing 2.85mm PLA, the pro pla filaments are typicality less rigid. Also buying domestically produced PLA means it doesn't have to spend time thermal cycling in a shipping container, hence the domestic filament is less brittle.
The drivers being placed near the motors is a feature I would like to see more often. It is really a bad Idea to run high current, high frequency signals for a relatively long distance, you're loosing more torque and radiating more EMF than you think!
Tenlog TL-D6 is a 600×600×600 idex printer at around $1600 usd. I just purchased the tl-d3 pro for $600 and first prints are looking really great. For the stuff I'm doing the tl-d3 had plenty big enough build volume of 300×300×350 and would allow me to do my metal filament tests with dissolveable supports, might be worth a look at both products. Another benefit for me was that it's direct drive and allows easier printing for brittle filament.
For that kind of money, I would be pretty ticked off if their own quality control/dev team put out a $4k machine that can't do PLA prints nicely. I'd expect that from the sub-$500/ endless supply of Chinese CR-10 knock offs.
@@TechnologistAtWork right? And that build plate...as Tom points out, why isn't that spring steel / PEX /PEI ? No active bed leveling/mesh creation? A BL Touch is pretty inexpensive. And I just cringed at all the defects he points out. That machine was slapped together, sadly
@@WhereNerdyisCool It should be a $500 printer because other than the dual extruders, it's not impressive in the slightest. Considering low-end printers can do better at quality, reputable manufacturers have no excuse making such terrible products.
this is sadly not only for BCN3D. I have a other machines aswell from expensive brands with so many stupid things. When I Ask for firmware to adjust for those things they just say no. So I replace the board to a Duet and just reconfigure the way I Want. And its funny that I basically program it like a Prusa as its so incredibly easy to use.
I think you and Andus are last two youtubers doing review properly and showing all the kinks and problems with the machine with no fear of not getting paid for the video , you are the best
I work with an S5 and material station (try to) at work. R&D. We ended up buying three Creator Pro2’s instead. Extremely reliable printers. Super quick startup and cooldown. Unlike the 20 minutes of prep time and ten blobs of pre extrusion every startup on the S5. I am a strong believer of not wasting time on it. I’m not sure about the reliability of the BCN3D but I can say that it should be leaps ahead of the S5. A professor In mechatronics agrees.
I traded out my Sigmax R19 for a Raise3D E2, which had a built in enclosure ayt the sacrifice of some build area. My biggest snag with the Sigmax was the glass plate suspended above the heaters - it meant there was always an air gap which lead to heating and print adhesion issues. Nice to see they have fixed that.
I've been working with a BCN3D Sigm R19 for more than two years now. After 1600 printing hours I know the machine pretty good. The only big problem I have is the Bed leveling assistant which is more or less useless. The build platform will never be perfectly adjusted. At some points on the bed you cant get the printed parts of. On others you can't get them to stick. It's almost not possible to manualy readjust the leveling as you are only meant to adjust the level on two points. thr third one is fixed. The bed leveling takes me around an hour to get perfect. The issue with snapping gilament in the bowden tubes depends on the filament u use. I had some PLA filaments, for example, which never snapped and some which snapped all the time. Personally I like the BCN3D Sigma R19 and would love to test one of the Epsilons. I hope the bedleveling works better on the new printer generatrion. In my opinion the BCN3D printers are more an enterprise solution than a printer for hobbyists but I hope that I could help anyone here.
I've used this quite a bit. Not only is this thing slow. Getting anything other than PLA or petg to stick without having to babysit. Breaking filament, it's been a hard time to use this for business use. It is a hobby machine.
So fascinating that companies are not able to get the basics right at that price right? Simply having a milled aluminium bed-plate, proper mounting so it doesn’t need ABL… I would say is a minimum. Being unique is definitely very nice, but not a real point for companies that actually want to use one.
This is looking pretty good. It sounds like once they slap a flex bed on there and incorporate mesh bed leveling (and fix the profiles), they'll have the only COTS, large format, dual axis printer. It won't be a good fit for the vast majority of people, but some companies would love this
Not to chill for another company but there are alternative IDEX printers out there. With a slightly larger volume and cheaper price you can actually build a RatRig V-Cast for example, its an IDEX printer with 250x300x400mm so its a bit short in one dimension though. I guess only main difference is that the V-Cast is a bedslinger, well and that it is a full DIY printer, so you don't get the fancy casing and all that. Just depends what your requirements in terms of support etc are.
Yea... Might as well just wait for the IDEX Voron to make its debut... Shaves the costs down to like ⅓ of _that_ machine and comes without the garbage ecosystem of needing like 6 complete hotends running on 3mm filament. The cost saving though will probably come at the cost of needing to dig into the matter of properly configuring what is basically a DIY solution as from my experience with my Voron 2.4 you're seriously out of luck finding a _comprehensive guide_ on how to get your machine to _Voron Speeds_ once you've finished building and configuring the basics using the official guide.
You can make a nice idex corexy for 700$ tbh. You don't necessarily need a Voron. Tho Voron has its sweet advantages ofc :p and it's already designed Saving you months of effort
@D. A. Oh I'm saying an idex corexy isn't that hard to design. It can also be done for not much more money (100$ extra? Maximum?) I'm thinking of a CoreXX with a seperate y axis motor and belt path
@@Duraltia oh I just realized. With the mechanics I have in mind you'd program it like a Cartesian because it'll be one. I was talking about connection the top belt to one X and the bottom to another X that'd remove the movement in the y axis as a result?
Throwing away a perfectly good hotend, heater cartridge, and thermistor just to replace a worn nozzle seems incredibly wasteful, and is reminiscent of being gouged on inkjet printer cartridges. For an enterprise level product I'd expect the software and profiles to be more polished as well. Otherwise it's mechanically very capable for the price!
Very frustrating, so much that I have searched high and low for substitute nozzles, but it's a strange design, you can get them but there not the same standard as e3d that are fitted
The hotend and heater cartridge are actually very cheap and simple parts, and by not having the consumer touch them you don't run into a problem with the closed loop system possibly becoming uncoupled, resulting in runaway heater. I see the reasoning for it, but I agree with you, it's tough to accept that when you're used to buying 100 nozzles for pennies each and swapping them out yourself.
@@3dpprofessor yeah but they charge around £80-£95 per hotends plus tax's n shipping, but if you buy into a £4500 8bit printer I guess you got the cash. To replace the hotends, the user has to cut cable ties, remove a protective cover undo a clip, as well as a couple of hex bolts, before leveling routine & pid tuning. I have damaged one of my extruder boars in this process which costs ~£30 plus shipping to replace, the wiring is fairly well routed but having a metal shroud around the hotend my heater cartridge wire also shorted blowing my main board, the since put in a replaceable fuse, (I just soldered in a fuse able resistor as my board lacks the removable one). I truly hope they have learnt from the troubles of the earlier machines like x axis now stainless steel as opposed to my slightly bent aluminium u channel (folded aluminium not extruded). 😁
I already had the perfect offer for the D25 for only $3800. But then I saw the setup thing on your channel with the "cloud" thing. COMPLETE DEALBREAKER. Now I am in the market for something similar but as you said, there are not that many large, IDEX reasonable prices. Fun fact, the 2.85mm would have been a bonus in my case.
Although I haven't used a Sigma before they always look fascinating to me. I think speed and reliability are if extreme importance in 3D for businesses. Hence why Voron sounds like the perfect choice. It's cheap, reliable and really fast
I have it running PLA 100 to 150 mm /sec all the time without any issues with some minor tweeks to the existing profile. You can also change nozzles just by gently heating the nozzle up with a heat pistol or a gaslighter, its unbelievable easy, although bcn3d wants ust to change the entire hotend which ist probably the better but mure costly idea. The machine has its flaws but is overall a great machine. It has shown to be very reliable after a short learning curve. The review is on point als always
In my 5 year experience of Prusa printers having a larger / taller Z-axis provides flexibility when you need to print the part in a particular orientation (for strength in a particular axis or to avoid overhangs) but you want to still print the part as 'long' as possible.
Fyi the main reason for using 2.85 filament is filament has a +-.05 diameter. On a 2.85 that variation is much less of percentage of error. Second it's the only way to go with flexible filament with Bowden systems.
I have used a dozen different Ultimakers over the years and I would never pay for one. They are always breaking and try to be user friendly but most of those feature get in the way of power users like me.
Heads up, not tested yet but I suspect 3mm filament can theoretically melt faster because heat penetration distance goes as r, but filament xsection area goes as r^2
I evaluated BCN3D a few years ago, they printed a file or two for me and I compared the results to MarkForged, Fusion3, Raise3D, and I was quite disappointed with the BCN3D print quality. They were also slow and unresponsive, so the expectation is that tech support will be poor.
I wonder, is that SSR switching the bed itself or is it switching the PSU, because if it is switching the bed itself it's a MOSFET with a heatsink on it because regular SSR's are based on TRIAC's which don't turn off unless you truly force it by shorting the output, or if it reaches 0V, and on AC it obviously reaches 0V multiple times a sec, if it is on the DC side it'll be a MOSFET
For the price, not having quality bed leveling is insane. I've been looking for a professional printer for my shop so my co-workers can easily operate it when I'm not in. Their epsilon printer was on my radar but it seemed to be lacking so many features that I think are necessary. Not using 1.75mm is a no-go for me as well. At this point I'm just going to wait for the Prusa XL since I'm sure that that printer will cover all my bases. The professional printers available right now are just awful price to performance/features.
Pretty sure a typical DC SSR is a MOSFET plus some extra protection and interface circuitry in a standardized frame. But it baffles me they went DC heated bed AND an SSR-like module. Is it really that hard to make AC safe that they'd run a PSU just to make bed heat?
It's made for education and industry when you can afford a technician to come troubleshooting every other month. I have had one r17 only ~500hours of runtime in 4 years, my creality has nearly 10000 hours in 3 years
The Creatbot F430 is a compeditor in the same pricerange, fully enclosed, dual printerheads, 400x300x300mm print size, heated oven, 430degrees (prints PEEK) has basically everything the D25 has and more… the F430 is truly the most printer for the buck
Maybe at this price point you should be able to use stock profiles but that being said I can't remember the last time I used anybody's stock profile. I don't even use my own tuned profile without some minor tweaks on a part by part basis...
I'm awaiting my place in the queue for a rat rig v-core... While I'm still waiting the spare 410x410mm flex plate I ordered elsewhere arrived and it's freaking enormous next to my current old Makergear M2 (10"x8"). Really looking forward to not having to work around build platform size anymore for most stuff!
I purchased a BCN3D W27 earlier this year. Looked good on paper. When it arrived the build quality was awful and the support was even worse. Ended up returning it and getting an Ultimaker S5, which we've been pretty happy with. I'd suggest avoiding BCN3D in general after my experience with them.
Dont know if this printer model, but Sigmax has NO (normally open) end stops. Also there are no ribbon cables but flexible pcb's. Printer cannot recognize, when flexboard snaps and then crashes bed when homing or calibrating bed. Why are they not using NC end stops? @Thomas Sanladerer how is that on D25?
My (now very old) Lulzbot Mini is 2.85mm filament and it drives me nuts that I usually can't buy specialist filaments because they're all 1.75mm. I would never consider buying a new printer that's still on 2.85.
2.85mm does make sense because of better control of retraction in bowden, pla great when fresh, but I use in only for abs, which doesn't make sense with this open version?
My Craftbot Flow IDEX XL feels similarly unpolished. Those of us in the community are constantly finding firmware bugs, and though the bed leveling and mesh leveling are great the bed goes out of level every time you remove the flex plate. Seems like a lot of the idex machines filling niche roles are less polished
Good Job on the Review as always! Alone the heat up time makes me not want this Printer... I built a 400x400x400 CoreXY printer with a Chiron Ultrabase as the bed and it takes longer than my smaller printers to heat up, but only about 5-7 minutes. Did they use a 12V supply in this printer?
Have you checked out the Raise 3D E2? That's what I have and it has a similar price tag as this Sigma and from what I've seen its better than this one. Dual extruders, fully enclosed unit, helpful ticket systems with good support. Large build area.
love the video well done, I think the BCN sucks, I had the r18 and everything that sent my blood cold then, is hear on the D25, definitely a company I would not buy from again.
The Sigmax R19 was extremely unreliable and the Sigma D25 tries to fix just some of the bugs and apparently brings some new. No more BCN3D for me. They used to call it "The most productive printer". That is true if the product is angry user.
I will NEVER AGAIN buy any BCN3D product! I had to send back my SIGMAX R19 4 times.. not exaggerating to get it fixed for the same problems. I paid over 660 in repairs since it was out of warranty. I was forced to buy a cardboard shipping box for 80 euros or they would not guaranty the repairs WTF!. I was paying for the repair services so they were not doing my any favors, they sent the machine back to me with all the stages loose and not tightened once and tried to say I did it and the machine left perfect. I have nothing better to do with my time and money as to sabotage my own machine that is out of warranty and wait another 3 weeks to get it back LOL.. they take no responsibility. Their machines and replacement parts are really expensive and the engineering is not great. Glad to see new companies like BambuLAB and others are offering machines that are much better for less. You snooze you lose, treat your customers bad, they don't come back, and they talk.
I have a Sigmax R19. Never worked properly. Maybe got 20 prints off it over 3 years. No support, heat creep, grinding filament. Bearing in mind that this is a production machine. Yes it works lovely for a bit, but it has now been abandoned. A 3,500 euro machine Never again.
I could achieve mirror mode with two Prusa mini's, two i3's, or any two 3d printers, at a heck of a lot cheaper price (like 10 times cheaper per unit, and 5 times cheaper even buying 2 other printers). So that feature isn't really a feature in my opinion. 420mm wide print space is huge (literally). Print Quality, now that is a big feature too, though not sure I'm seeing a quality jump that warrants the huge price difference, power consumption, and space required IMHO
The modix printers fit your bill as dual extrusion, and bigger build space. The smallest one is 600x600x600. The only advantage is true dual heads. Which is debatable as a big enough advantage.
I don't see the logic, how does a manufacturer get an automatic pass just because they have a higher price tag? There's a common saying, "trust, but verify." Given 3D printer history there's really no excuse today for printer manufacturers to mess up thermal protections at all, ever, yet you published a video just 3 weeks ago demonstrating that this is still a problem. I'm already dubious about the presence of an SSR on the heated bed and you, yourself, pointed out that they should be using a MOSFET there. Omron's "Solid State Relays Safety Precautions" document points out two related concerns: 1. "SSRs may occasionally explode. Do not apply a short-circuit current to the load side of an SSR." 2. "Short-circuit failures represent the main failure mode and can result in an inability to shut OFF the load. Therefore, for fail-safe operation of control circuits that use SSRs, do not use circuits that shut OFF the load power supply only with an SSR, but rather also use circuits with a contactor or breaker that shuts off the load when the SSR fails."
Do yourself a favor and kick all those flex plates and gluesticks out of your office and just use a clean glas build plate. You will never have a problem with a not sticking 3D-print. Just don't clean it with alcohol, use only water and a bit of dish soap. Never had a single failed print due to not sticking on the build surface. Works with PLA, PETG, ABS and Nylon without any problems. A small brim is only needed to prevent warping on corners/edges and make sure the temperature of the build plate is set correctly.
10:56 Why didn't you dry the filament. We already know it snapping off is a feature of the moisture and the formula so that wouldn't be a printer issue.
Pla breaks like that in Bowden tubes due to stress. MMU users deal with it too. Your whole setup can be sealed and actively dried and it will still happen. PLA forms tiny micro-cracks as it is bent, and they grow over time.
Definitely check out the Weedo x40, looks like it does 90-95% of the same quality (with a 300x300x400 build volume) with roughly a 6-7th of the price tag. (and yes its an IDEX)
The X40 is a terrible machine, i have one of my own. It can print nice no doubt, but the electronics kind of suck. The printer has loud fans, not all stepper drivers are 2208 and the worst part, their firmware simply sucks beyond anything. I have had lost a couple of prints where one printhead simply stopped moving. It would extrude but stay stationary. If this issue is actually a firmware issue or an issue of the board, i am not sure. I do not recommend to buy a X40 and if you do, join the X40 Community discord and see what issues all the guys there have. ;)
I am considering the Weedo X40 but the reviews are not great. If I were looking for something in the price range of a D25, I would buy a Raise3D printer.
@@TeaObvious I've heard those are main issues with the earlier models, however idk for sure, I do know that mine has been giving me very little issues (other than basic maintenance) and I got mine in June. If you wanted another alternative I'd say the Artist pro-D is a solid choice (I have heard a lot complaints about the artist pro than the weedo x40)
@@demetriousferris6675 this may be, a couple of people in our discord had dead boards and payed to get new ones, they weren't even replace for free... Since then their printers seem to work. So maybe the early board are faulty. How ever that does not solve the problem with the loud fans and especially the lie about silent stepper drivers. (I am not sure if they still claim this) Personally, i got it for 300€ and this is somewhat, what it could be considered "worth", especially when i finally get around to replace the board for something actually good. How ever, every euro more is to expensive. If i need a predone printer, i would keep an eye on the Jadelabo. If i have nothing against a kit printer, i would buy the RatRig V-Cast, as soon as its hardware refresh is done.
@@TeaObvious if you're up for a challenge you should turn a voron 2.4 into an idex 😉. I'm currently working on one and I think I can get it done around 1400-1500$
For 4k you don't get a flex plate and an inductive probe. Uses welding rod. Seems like they are not paying attention to the progress that's been made by the community and other companies.
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Man, times really change fast. Back in 2015 the only cheapest 3d printer cost 400$, was made of plywood, and required constant tinkering.
And now people bash on companies for not making their 150$ ender 3 clone plug-and-play. Nice review btw.
Raise3D E2 … It's also IDEX, print volume is only 330mm in width, but it comes with autolevel, with a camera, uses 1.75mm filament, is enclosed and more silent. *AND* about 25% cheaper…
Yep, great machine, we have it in our lab!
I can recommend the e2 too. Over 500h yet and only minor fails (mostly caused by me).
Awesome results with ASA.
And they actually work!
I just wish it were taller. Like their Pro+ printer.
But I like all the rest of their features.
@Albert Navarro Balcells Facts
If you are thinking to buy this machine, you should first check out the Raise 3D E2. It is also an idex but has a lot of features that BCN 3D has not such as flexplate, direct drive and bed mesh. We have both and we regret the BCN3D printer a lot and wish that we would have had 2 E2s instead.
Add me to that list, big regret
me too
@Albert Navarro Balcells i think I did this machine a disservice, I don't own a d25, I have the much earlier r17, which although uses many of the same high quality components (genuine hiwin rails, e3d hotends), there were quality issues a few years ago (a few lemons got through) , and bcn3d have taken down the old forums of people trying to solve their issues, because unfortunately after warranty runs out its expensive machine, with high tolerances to work on at home without the right tools. Like steel mounts for the rails not being deburred causing the rails to not be parallel causing the self leveling routine to get stuck at the front of the bed, motor brackets holding z leadscrew not being square leading to z banding, there was a whole heap of early issues. Plus this machine was advertised to be upto 3 times faster because using idex, u could use different size nozzles on the same print small to do Detail, large to do the rest, sounds great if the software, stls, slicers made that a trivial bit operation for the average user. The colour printing is excellent, although a bit slow compared to today's machines, but to accuse people of not knowing about 3d printing is not really considering other peoples experiences. I hope you find the d25 to be a real work horse, then all the troubleshooting us users learnt about wouldn't have been without use.
Me three. We have the epsilon series
Except that from some brief testing on my part, Raise3D's slicer appears to be lousy because I can't set the shell thickness.
Great review. I love that you didn't overlook the small flaws, as someone can always choose to ignore them if it doesn't bother them. It would be good to see a comparison to the Raise3D E2 or Pro2, which seems to be their closest competitors.
E2 is the better comparison, because the Pro2 print head is so heavy.
I don't understand the strategy of making such an expensive printer without auto bed leveling.
My assumption is that when someone buys something like this he's expecing it to be most plug and play as possible.
Am I missing something?
If you have a bed that is flat and a solid machine, adjusting the bed one time should last you a long time. Just look at markforged printers...
They depend on glass.
I've reached a conclusion its deliberately poor design and lack of features to maximise profit. Of course if people just stopped buying them, then companies would stop producing them this way...will we ever learn?
I used the raise 3d pro 2? It's a 5k printer with no auto leveling. We had to print a Guage bracket to actually get it to level correctly. After that it was fine for a while. But a horrible experience non the less.
I had some R17 and R19 and participated a lot on the community to be one of the first to have bondtech/E3d in 1,75mm switched on it
But sincerely I do not recommend to anyone to buy this printed and any from BCN3d
Many hardware problems: thermal issue on bed, leveling is pain in the ass, etc etc, it is very weird that they didn’t change it! And the worst they don’t Care of support old printer, when they go on the market with new one the old one do not have anymore FW upgrade etc etc
Better to buy a UM if industrial purpose is necessary, a PRUSA for bedlevelling and reliability, or a VORON if you are not afraid to work on it and want the best
BCN3D is Not reliable as a 3d printer company
You say this is a very innovative machine, but somehow it feels quite dated to me. Using glue stick on a glass bed, no ABL on a large printer, 3mm filament, painfully slow speeds, those are things that even cheap printers have moved past at this point. The only way they can get by with that is by having a niche product and a good sales department. Also, I would love to see you print flexible materials with those super long Bowden tubes :D
Im gonna defend the gluestick. I just use it for everything as it always works. evne on my PEI flex plates. Its the most reliable way of ALWAYS having the prints stick.
for the rest I Agree
@@jbergene If there was a PEI sheet, you'd at least have the option. For PLA and ABS I always print directly on it with great success. The only times I use glue stick is with PETG, more as a release layer though to protect the PEI.
The great thing about options is that if you prefer glue stick, you can always add that.
I've been printing for over a year now, on both delta and carthesian printers, never had to use any kind of adhesive for the prints to stick. I used stock aluminum ender 3 plate, upgraded magnetic, and a glass bed.
We have 3 BCN3D Epsilon W50s at work and I would suggest avoiding these machines. The bed leveling feature is useless unless you adjust the mesh bed level by hand so the bed adhesion is incredibly inconsistent. The machines are not rigid and have lots of moving mass so they're slow. The long bowden filament path paired with the 3mm filament also gives pretty underwhelming print quality compared to a prusa. We've also seen catastrophic jams and failures a few times with the bowden tube being ejected in one case. One of our three machines can't be connected to the internet at all so we can't use the cloud printing feature and after months the issue still hasn't been resolved. The dual extrusion performance also wasn't great out of the box though that may be a tuning issue in part.
Nice review. Just two things:
@5:28 There is also the (infamous) vivedino/formbot IDEX T-Rex 3 (400x400x500mm³) BTW: With a 230V heated bed.
@7:28 There was no problem to create copy/mirror mode profiles for PrusaSlicer and without digging into the slicer's code. So no need for forking.
Do you have sigma profiles for PrusaSlicer? Thanks
@@duveral Sorry, but no.
Once I saw that wonky 5 I really couldn't unsee it - that would drive me insane!
Perfect - this is exactly the type of review that we need. One point regarding large printers, the MakerGear UltraOne has a 16” by 14” by 13” bed, dual independent extruders and is far below the Stratasys price range, Thanks for the comprehensive, balanced review.
I think there is actually some practical meanings of using the 2.85mm filament, because of the bowden setup of this machine as well as for the Ultimaker machines. Their extruders are far away from the hotend, driving a 1.75mm flexible filament, like the NinjaFlex or the Essentium TPU80A, will be quite difficult, however the 2.85mm filament will be a bit more “stiff” and makes it easier to be pushed through the long bowden tube.
I agree, and for printing 2.85mm PLA, the pro pla filaments are typicality less rigid. Also buying domestically produced PLA means it doesn't have to spend time thermal cycling in a shipping container, hence the domestic filament is less brittle.
19:15 xD That kind of pedantry is why I'm still watching despite having no intentions (or money) to buy this machine :)
The drivers being placed near the motors is a feature I would like to see more often.
It is really a bad Idea to run high current, high frequency signals for a relatively long distance, you're loosing more torque and radiating more EMF than you think!
Ribbon cables a nightmare when one breaks and you have to wait a week to get another.
@@tituscassiusseverus6303 enough places with ribbon cable in stock
@@tituscassiusseverus6303 Just buy a roll of ribbon wire and some crimp ends that they use and keep them on hand.
Tenlog TL-D6 is a 600×600×600 idex printer at around $1600 usd. I just purchased the tl-d3 pro for $600 and first prints are looking really great.
For the stuff I'm doing the tl-d3 had plenty big enough build volume of 300×300×350 and would allow me to do my metal filament tests with dissolveable supports, might be worth a look at both products.
Another benefit for me was that it's direct drive and allows easier printing for brittle filament.
Yeah, not sure if a 600x600mm bedslinger is the best of ideas.
@@MadeWithLayers maybe not, but I also haven't seen any reviews of it to judge (perhaps for this reason...?). so far the I'm really liking the d3
For that kind of money, I would be pretty ticked off if their own quality control/dev team put out a $4k machine that can't do PLA prints nicely. I'd expect that from the sub-$500/ endless supply of Chinese CR-10 knock offs.
You can run a printing farm with that money. Expensive machines are supposed to reduce maintenance, not create challenges to deal with in a workplace.
@@TechnologistAtWork right? And that build plate...as Tom points out, why isn't that spring steel / PEX /PEI ? No active bed leveling/mesh creation? A BL Touch is pretty inexpensive. And I just cringed at all the defects he points out. That machine was slapped together, sadly
@@WhereNerdyisCool It should be a $500 printer because other than the dual extruders, it's not impressive in the slightest. Considering low-end printers can do better at quality, reputable manufacturers have no excuse making such terrible products.
Cries in having a sub 200 e3 knockoff
this is sadly not only for BCN3D. I have a other machines aswell from expensive brands with so many stupid things. When I Ask for firmware to adjust for those things they just say no. So I replace the board to a Duet and just reconfigure the way I Want. And its funny that I basically program it like a Prusa as its so incredibly easy to use.
Thomas, you're my favorite DIY influencer and also a decent DIY haircut creator
I think you and Andus are last two youtubers doing review properly and showing all the kinks and problems with the machine with no fear of not getting paid for the video , you are the best
Hey, don't butcher up Anus' name like that!
I work with an S5 and material station (try to) at work. R&D. We ended up buying three Creator Pro2’s instead. Extremely reliable printers. Super quick startup and cooldown. Unlike the 20 minutes of prep time and ten blobs of pre extrusion every startup on the S5. I am a strong believer of not wasting time on it. I’m not sure about the reliability of the BCN3D but I can say that it should be leaps ahead of the S5. A professor In mechatronics agrees.
It's unfortunate that you can't use the print volume fully.. it's puzzling that there is no mesh leveling for such a big bed.
I traded out my Sigmax R19 for a Raise3D E2, which had a built in enclosure ayt the sacrifice of some build area. My biggest snag with the Sigmax was the glass plate suspended above the heaters - it meant there was always an air gap which lead to heating and print adhesion issues. Nice to see they have fixed that.
User manual says: "If the bed adhesion is not good raise the temperature by 5 °C". I ended at 75°C for PLA (with 3DLAC)
I've been working with a BCN3D Sigm R19 for more than two years now. After 1600 printing hours I know the machine pretty good. The only big problem I have is the Bed leveling assistant which is more or less useless. The build platform will never be perfectly adjusted. At some points on the bed you cant get the printed parts of. On others you can't get them to stick. It's almost not possible to manualy readjust the leveling as you are only meant to adjust the level on two points. thr third one is fixed. The bed leveling takes me around an hour to get perfect.
The issue with snapping gilament in the bowden tubes depends on the filament u use. I had some PLA filaments, for example, which never snapped and some which snapped all the time.
Personally I like the BCN3D Sigma R19 and would love to test one of the Epsilons. I hope the bedleveling works better on the new printer generatrion.
In my opinion the BCN3D printers are more an enterprise solution than a printer for hobbyists but I hope that I could help anyone here.
I've used this quite a bit. Not only is this thing slow. Getting anything other than PLA or petg to stick without having to babysit. Breaking filament, it's been a hard time to use this for business use. It is a hobby machine.
Such a wide bed, and only one leadscrew - I suspect this is part of the problem regarding bed leveling
So fascinating that companies are not able to get the basics right at that price right? Simply having a milled aluminium bed-plate, proper mounting so it doesn’t need ABL… I would say is a minimum. Being unique is definitely very nice, but not a real point for companies that actually want to use one.
Creator 3 (Pro) and Creator 4 from Flashforge. First one I own, second one I'll certainly buy.
@Vincent ..absolutely agree! Well said.
This is looking pretty good. It sounds like once they slap a flex bed on there and incorporate mesh bed leveling (and fix the profiles), they'll have the only COTS, large format, dual axis printer. It won't be a good fit for the vast majority of people, but some companies would love this
Great Review Tom! I can always expect a non-biased approach to your reviews!
The advantage of 2.85mm is that it works better with long bowden tube setups. Especially with flexibles
Not to chill for another company but there are alternative IDEX printers out there.
With a slightly larger volume and cheaper price you can actually build a RatRig V-Cast for example, its an IDEX printer with 250x300x400mm so its a bit short in one dimension though.
I guess only main difference is that the V-Cast is a bedslinger, well and that it is a full DIY printer, so you don't get the fancy casing and all that. Just depends what your requirements in terms of support etc are.
There's also the community project the MULDEX with a bit smaller build volume of Single Mode being: 340mm x 300mm x 300mm
Yea... Might as well just wait for the IDEX Voron to make its debut... Shaves the costs down to like ⅓ of _that_ machine and comes without the garbage ecosystem of needing like 6 complete hotends running on 3mm filament. The cost saving though will probably come at the cost of needing to dig into the matter of properly configuring what is basically a DIY solution as from my experience with my Voron 2.4 you're seriously out of luck finding a _comprehensive guide_ on how to get your machine to _Voron Speeds_ once you've finished building and configuring the basics using the official guide.
You can make a nice idex corexy for 700$ tbh. You don't necessarily need a Voron. Tho Voron has its sweet advantages ofc :p and it's already designed Saving you months of effort
@D. A. Oh I'm saying an idex corexy isn't that hard to design. It can also be done for not much more money (100$ extra? Maximum?)
I'm thinking of a CoreXX with a seperate y axis motor and belt path
@@ameliabuns4058 I'd argue that with so many things, designing one isn't the problem - Coding for it is 😮
@@Duraltia I think there are firmwares for it already? Worst case is I think you might be able to fool the klipper firmware into treating it as the Y?
@@Duraltia oh I just realized. With the mechanics I have in mind you'd program it like a Cartesian because it'll be one.
I was talking about connection the top belt to one X and the bottom to another X that'd remove the movement in the y axis as a result?
Throwing away a perfectly good hotend, heater cartridge, and thermistor just to replace a worn nozzle seems incredibly wasteful, and is reminiscent of being gouged on inkjet printer cartridges. For an enterprise level product I'd expect the software and profiles to be more polished as well. Otherwise it's mechanically very capable for the price!
Very frustrating, so much that I have searched high and low for substitute nozzles, but it's a strange design, you can get them but there not the same standard as e3d that are fitted
The hotend and heater cartridge are actually very cheap and simple parts, and by not having the consumer touch them you don't run into a problem with the closed loop system possibly becoming uncoupled, resulting in runaway heater. I see the reasoning for it, but I agree with you, it's tough to accept that when you're used to buying 100 nozzles for pennies each and swapping them out yourself.
@@3dpprofessor yeah but they charge around £80-£95 per hotends plus tax's n shipping, but if you buy into a £4500 8bit printer I guess you got the cash. To replace the hotends, the user has to cut cable ties, remove a protective cover undo a clip, as well as a couple of hex bolts, before leveling routine & pid tuning. I have damaged one of my extruder boars in this process which costs ~£30 plus shipping to replace, the wiring is fairly well routed but having a metal shroud around the hotend my heater cartridge wire also shorted blowing my main board, the since put in a replaceable fuse, (I just soldered in a fuse able resistor as my board lacks the removable one). I truly hope they have learnt from the troubles of the earlier machines like x axis now stainless steel as opposed to my slightly bent aluminium u channel (folded aluminium not extruded). 😁
People who buy a 4k printer can usually afford a new hotend every now and then. They rather expect ease of use.
I already had the perfect offer for the D25 for only $3800. But then I saw the setup thing on your channel with the "cloud" thing. COMPLETE DEALBREAKER. Now I am in the market for something similar but as you said, there are not that many large, IDEX reasonable prices. Fun fact, the 2.85mm would have been a bonus in my case.
Although I haven't used a Sigma before they always look fascinating to me. I think speed and reliability are if extreme importance in 3D for businesses. Hence why Voron sounds like the perfect choice. It's cheap, reliable and really fast
Geepers Batman that thing is a MONSTER, not only in size but price too. Still, kinda different having the Bed be the Z move instead of the Hotends.
I have it running PLA 100 to 150 mm /sec all the time without any issues with some minor tweeks to the existing profile. You can also change nozzles just by gently heating the nozzle up with a heat pistol or a gaslighter, its unbelievable easy, although bcn3d wants ust to change the entire hotend which ist probably the better but mure costly idea. The machine has its flaws but is overall a great machine. It has shown to be very reliable after a short learning curve. The review is on point als always
In my 5 year experience of Prusa printers having a larger / taller Z-axis provides flexibility when you need to print the part in a particular orientation (for strength in a particular axis or to avoid overhangs) but you want to still print the part as 'long' as possible.
Fyi the main reason for using 2.85 filament is filament has a +-.05 diameter. On a 2.85 that variation is much less of percentage of error. Second it's the only way to go with flexible filament with Bowden systems.
I have used a dozen different Ultimakers over the years and I would never pay for one. They are always breaking and try to be user friendly but most of those feature get in the way of power users like me.
Ultimakers suck
Great review!
Heads up, not tested yet but I suspect 3mm filament can theoretically melt faster because heat penetration distance goes as r, but filament xsection area goes as r^2
I evaluated BCN3D a few years ago, they printed a file or two for me and I compared the results to MarkForged, Fusion3, Raise3D, and I was quite disappointed with the BCN3D print quality. They were also slow and unresponsive, so the expectation is that tech support will be poor.
AWESOME REVIEW. AWESOME PRINTER.
I wonder, is that SSR switching the bed itself or is it switching the PSU, because if it is switching the bed itself it's a MOSFET with a heatsink on it because regular SSR's are based on TRIAC's which don't turn off unless you truly force it by shorting the output, or if it reaches 0V, and on AC it obviously reaches 0V multiple times a sec, if it is on the DC side it'll be a MOSFET
For the price, not having quality bed leveling is insane. I've been looking for a professional printer for my shop so my co-workers can easily operate it when I'm not in. Their epsilon printer was on my radar but it seemed to be lacking so many features that I think are necessary. Not using 1.75mm is a no-go for me as well. At this point I'm just going to wait for the Prusa XL since I'm sure that that printer will cover all my bases. The professional printers available right now are just awful price to performance/features.
If something goes wrong mate, you need plenty of experience to troubleshoot, great when they work, bugger when they not
Thanks for the review. Please review more prosumer 3D printers. makerbot method? raise3d pro2 etc?
Isn't the MakerBot method just a rebadged FlashForge? Or am I thinking of a different one?
@@rpavlik1 I'm sure it has some common parts, but it's a new design.
Pretty sure a typical DC SSR is a MOSFET plus some extra protection and interface circuitry in a standardized frame. But it baffles me they went DC heated bed AND an SSR-like module. Is it really that hard to make AC safe that they'd run a PSU just to make bed heat?
Thanks for the honest review.
This is an odd one... It's a great machine but the places where it fails feel out of place given the polish of the rest of it.
It's just so weird how they succeeded at few things and flopped at the basics.
@@TechnologistAtWork yeah it almost feels like it was made by two teams and one put in way more effort than the other or smth
It's made for education and industry when you can afford a technician to come troubleshooting every other month. I have had one r17 only ~500hours of runtime in 4 years, my creality has nearly 10000 hours in 3 years
@@tituscassiusseverus6303 that only tells me it's an overpriced garbage.
@@tituscassiusseverus6303 sure but you shouldn't *need* a technician coming out every other month at that price point.
The Creatbot F430 is a compeditor in the same pricerange, fully enclosed, dual printerheads, 400x300x300mm print size, heated oven, 430degrees (prints PEEK) has basically everything the D25 has and more… the F430 is truly the most printer for the buck
Can you make a video on ultimaker S5 , there are no videos on it. Love your channel . On how to level bed with 3 screws
Maybe at this price point you should be able to use stock profiles but that being said I can't remember the last time I used anybody's stock profile. I don't even use my own tuned profile without some minor tweaks on a part by part basis...
I'm awaiting my place in the queue for a rat rig v-core... While I'm still waiting the spare 410x410mm flex plate I ordered elsewhere arrived and it's freaking enormous next to my current old Makergear M2 (10"x8"). Really looking forward to not having to work around build platform size anymore for most stuff!
Purple PCB oh my finally!!
I purchased a BCN3D W27 earlier this year. Looked good on paper. When it arrived the build quality was awful and the support was even worse. Ended up returning it and getting an Ultimaker S5, which we've been pretty happy with. I'd suggest avoiding BCN3D in general after my experience with them.
Dont know if this printer model, but Sigmax has NO (normally open) end stops. Also there are no ribbon cables but flexible pcb's. Printer cannot recognize, when flexboard snaps and then crashes bed when homing or calibrating bed. Why are they not using NC end stops?
@Thomas Sanladerer how is that on D25?
My (now very old) Lulzbot Mini is 2.85mm filament and it drives me nuts that I usually can't buy specialist filaments because they're all 1.75mm. I would never consider buying a new printer that's still on 2.85.
Damn that's Lorge.
It's so expensive sadly.
Also why do so many industrial/expensive printers miss on basic nice features
i would probably be interested in this machine if it used 1.75 filament, great video as always
2.85mm does make sense because of better control of retraction in bowden, pla great when fresh, but I use in only for abs, which doesn't make sense with this open version?
My Craftbot Flow IDEX XL feels similarly unpolished. Those of us in the community are constantly finding firmware bugs, and though the bed leveling and mesh leveling are great the bed goes out of level every time you remove the flex plate. Seems like a lot of the idex machines filling niche roles are less polished
That thumbnail though
Good Job on the Review as always! Alone the heat up time makes me not want this Printer...
I built a 400x400x400 CoreXY printer with a Chiron Ultrabase as the bed and it takes longer than my smaller printers to heat up, but only about 5-7 minutes. Did they use a 12V supply in this printer?
Have you checked out the Raise 3D E2? That's what I have and it has a similar price tag as this Sigma and from what I've seen its better than this one. Dual extruders, fully enclosed unit, helpful ticket systems with good support. Large build area.
love the video well done, I think the BCN sucks, I had the r18 and everything that sent my blood cold then, is hear on the D25, definitely a company I would not buy from again.
Thomas, could you do a video about release agents? Not everyone has problems with not sticky buildplates, sometimes its the other way around :-)
Hi, nice video, but the plate of Ultimaker S5 is 330mm x 240mm not 300mm x 240mm.
Hello , we got a new printer, can you help us make video testing ?
just save ur hair and turn form daddy to heisenberg.
The Sigmax R19 was extremely unreliable and the Sigma D25 tries to fix just some of the bugs and apparently brings some new. No more BCN3D for me.
They used to call it "The most productive printer". That is true if the product is angry user.
Great review. Seems like a lot of these printers I start off thinking that this may be one I should look into, but by then end its a hard pass.
I will NEVER AGAIN buy any BCN3D product! I had to send back my SIGMAX R19 4 times.. not exaggerating to get it fixed for the same problems. I paid over 660 in repairs since it was out of warranty. I was forced to buy a cardboard shipping box for 80 euros or they would not guaranty the repairs WTF!. I was paying for the repair services so they were not doing my any favors, they sent the machine back to me with all the stages loose and not tightened once and tried to say I did it and the machine left perfect. I have nothing better to do with my time and money as to sabotage my own machine that is out of warranty and wait another 3 weeks to get it back LOL.. they take no responsibility. Their machines and replacement parts are really expensive and the engineering is not great. Glad to see new companies like BambuLAB and others are offering machines that are much better for less. You snooze you lose, treat your customers bad, they don't come back, and they talk.
Oh boy been hoping youd check this thing out.
Wow these accelerations are hilarious compared to my Voron 2.4. I use 2500 for walls and 5000 for infill with really nice quality.
I have a Sigmax R19. Never worked properly. Maybe got 20 prints off it over 3 years. No support, heat creep, grinding filament. Bearing in mind that this is a production machine.
Yes it works lovely for a bit, but it has now been abandoned. A 3,500 euro machine
Never again.
Nice Review!
Excellent review!
Thank you!
Should it be very difficult to take two Ender 3:s and rebuild them to one machine, similar to the Sigma D25?
I could achieve mirror mode with two Prusa mini's, two i3's, or any two 3d printers, at a heck of a lot cheaper price (like 10 times cheaper per unit, and 5 times cheaper even buying 2 other printers). So that feature isn't really a feature in my opinion. 420mm wide print space is huge (literally). Print Quality, now that is a big feature too, though not sure I'm seeing a quality jump that warrants the huge price difference, power consumption, and space required IMHO
Thanks!!
The modix printers fit your bill as dual extrusion, and bigger build space. The smallest one is 600x600x600. The only advantage is true dual heads. Which is debatable as a big enough advantage.
So I didn't see any mention of thermal protections in the firmware here. Did they get tested in the 10hr unboxing live stream?
I did not explicitly test them, but I have no reason to believe that BCN3D would have messed up the thermal protection features.
I don't see the logic, how does a manufacturer get an automatic pass just because they have a higher price tag? There's a common saying, "trust, but verify." Given 3D printer history there's really no excuse today for printer manufacturers to mess up thermal protections at all, ever, yet you published a video just 3 weeks ago demonstrating that this is still a problem.
I'm already dubious about the presence of an SSR on the heated bed and you, yourself, pointed out that they should be using a MOSFET there. Omron's "Solid State Relays Safety Precautions" document points out two related concerns:
1. "SSRs may occasionally explode. Do not apply a short-circuit current to the load side of an SSR."
2. "Short-circuit failures represent the main failure mode and can result in an inability to shut OFF the load. Therefore, for fail-safe operation of control circuits that use SSRs, do not use circuits that shut OFF the load power supply only with an SSR, but rather also use circuits with a contactor or breaker that shuts off the load when the SSR fails."
The dual printing was a big selling point for me...two printers in one
Nah, guess I'll wait for Flashforge Creator 4 if I want that size.
Print a Mini with that :D
Do yourself a favor and kick all those flex plates and gluesticks out of your office and just use a clean glas build plate. You will never have a problem with a not sticking 3D-print. Just don't clean it with alcohol, use only water and a bit of dish soap. Never had a single failed print due to not sticking on the build surface. Works with PLA, PETG, ABS and Nylon without any problems. A small brim is only needed to prevent warping on corners/edges and make sure the temperature of the build plate is set correctly.
Think I'll be sticking to my 350mm VORON2.4
10:56 Why didn't you dry the filament. We already know it snapping off is a feature of the moisture and the formula so that wouldn't be a printer issue.
Pla breaks like that in Bowden tubes due to stress. MMU users deal with it too. Your whole setup can be sealed and actively dried and it will still happen. PLA forms tiny micro-cracks as it is bent, and they grow over time.
You had me at chunky boy
This was done on a bukobot ages ago.
Dual toolheads on independent x is much more exciting than lidar sensor gimmick on "some" printer. lol
Idex ratrig? There's an idex toolhead for the Eva system
Definitely check out the Weedo x40, looks like it does 90-95% of the same quality (with a 300x300x400 build volume) with roughly a 6-7th of the price tag. (and yes its an IDEX)
The X40 is a terrible machine, i have one of my own. It can print nice no doubt, but the electronics kind of suck.
The printer has loud fans, not all stepper drivers are 2208 and the worst part, their firmware simply sucks beyond anything.
I have had lost a couple of prints where one printhead simply stopped moving. It would extrude but stay stationary.
If this issue is actually a firmware issue or an issue of the board, i am not sure.
I do not recommend to buy a X40 and if you do, join the X40 Community discord and see what issues all the guys there have. ;)
I am considering the Weedo X40 but the reviews are not great. If I were looking for something in the price range of a D25, I would buy a Raise3D printer.
@@TeaObvious I've heard those are main issues with the earlier models, however idk for sure, I do know that mine has been giving me very little issues (other than basic maintenance) and I got mine in June. If you wanted another alternative I'd say the Artist pro-D is a solid choice (I have heard a lot complaints about the artist pro than the weedo x40)
@@demetriousferris6675 this may be, a couple of people in our discord had dead boards and payed to get new ones, they weren't even replace for free...
Since then their printers seem to work. So maybe the early board are faulty.
How ever that does not solve the problem with the loud fans and especially the lie about silent stepper drivers. (I am not sure if they still claim this)
Personally, i got it for 300€ and this is somewhat, what it could be considered "worth", especially when i finally get around to replace the board for something actually good. How ever, every euro more is to expensive.
If i need a predone printer, i would keep an eye on the Jadelabo. If i have nothing against a kit printer, i would buy the RatRig V-Cast, as soon as its hardware refresh is done.
@@TeaObvious if you're up for a challenge you should turn a voron 2.4 into an idex 😉. I'm currently working on one and I think I can get it done around 1400-1500$
They need Klipper and input shaper
30mm/s? In 2021? Not 2012?
Thanks!
Thank you!
For 4k you don't get a flex plate and an inductive probe. Uses welding rod. Seems like they are not paying attention to the progress that's been made by the community and other companies.
Title is valid question. But still ... my answer is: it's not. It's just not comparable...
Waiting for the video where you modify this printer to use 1.75mm filament.........
Imagine paying $4K for this and not coming anywhere close to something like a RailCore II performance.
It needs a magnetic, metal build-plate option