The way you handled your Sponsor in this video was perfect, placing them over the top of a non informational video section I didn't feel compelled to skip through the AD. Thank you, I've been wanting RUclipsrs to do this for ages, no one else gets it.
I run a 3d printing business. We automate our FDM printers by simply using the textured PEI build plates from Prusa. Print on them at 65 degrees, let them cool down to 30 degrees, then the parts are easy enough to knock off with the extruder/print-head. Works amazingly well.
@@MadeWithLayers Thin parts are probably fine if you have a bulldozer on the front of the hotend. And no real need to prime the nozzle. atleast I don't although you could use a catch bucket like sigmas
I would think a fixed heated bed, but a print mill print surface that just rotates 180° after a print would work. Texture surface on them works, and you wouldn't have all the Y moments the mill has. A 300mm bed could only need 650 belt, with room for a conveyor or two.
I cannot point out enough: I like the wave of innovation that comes out of the community!!!! great video !!! Also... Would it be called a "bed slinger"?_
We are very fortunate that, as of yet, the hobby hasn't been taken over by the by the mentality that let to the inkjet cartridge, and completely closed source manufactures.
VORLADERER 3.0!! This is one of the best mods I've seen in a long time. Filament solution: 50kg spool and you'll be printing for weeks non-stop. The Belt-Belt®️ system is better than a drum because you're not limited to only 6 runs. Also the insertion/removal process is much simpler. Just fricking awesome.
TL;DR: Use cams to lift the print surface from the bed, they are powerful and compact Consider the following idea: you have a magnetic printing surface just like one you already have, but a bit larger than the actual heated bed and with a RIGID frame (similar to your design). Then you have two camshafts running along the parallel edges of your bed (preferably the long edges) below the print surface level. Shafts rotate, cams engage the print surface frame from below and lift it from the bed, then you push the old print surface away using a new one coming from some magazine, like you already do. That would be a much more compact system, camshafts will take less space than this whole jack (awesome design but still) and you can use larger print surface and much more Z space.
Well he could also just use some small pneumatic cylinders like the mgpl12-10z on the sides. Would also easily fit inside the envelope of the printer and still be able to hold the entire bed. Just one on each corner. Would also be faster. I guess there are a lot of options on how to do it. I mean he could also just keep his current design and just increase the extrusion length on his z-axis. That way he would still have the same z-travel.
@@nukularpictures Well, pneumatic cylinders are nice, fast and powerful, but you will need a whole pneumatic system with a compressor, small reciever, solenoids, etc. For cams you just add a motor or two (probably geared or with a belt reducer) and they are powered and controlled just like the other motors on your printer. But I like the idea of pneumatics, might as well use the system for berd-air style part cooling.
@@nukularpictures actually, my next suggestion was to use cams (or pneumatics, why not) to support and lift the actual rails which the "cartridges" are sliding on. Just locate these rails along the bed edges and below the "cartridge" frame.
@@martylawson1638 Actually, I just thought that just a couple of small servos with cams would be enough. They are already geared and should be powerful enough, you just have to lift one edge of the spring steel sheet so it detaches the bed (rigid frame will ensure that), then it should slide off the bed easily.
It is surprising how minds sometimes have similar thoughts. When you first described the goal, my thoughts were of a treadmill bed made with a revolving flexible magnetic PEI coated print surface. As a part finishes printing, the bed would advance to the next clean surface. As parts rounded the end of the treadmill the radius would break them loose from the bed and into the collection bin they would go. Cleaning the print surface for the next job may present another problem in need of a solution, but if the goal is to just keep the printer busy overnight, or for longer periods, just make the treadmill long enough so there is enough clean surface to last as long as needed! Then when you introduced your stack of individual print surfaces my thoughts jumped to the need for a magazine to feed them, and that's just what you came up with!
Man, what a project! I just missed a ramp on the release side to make all of those parts out of the printer without a crash, because if you print larger and toller parts that could eventually happens.
It’s refreshing to learn from an engineer that subtlety shows how the world is but only as a canvas for showing how the world could be.. Thank you for painting that picture.
I have no idea if this is a good idea, but this is an awesome realization of what 3D printing is good for and design iteration in general. More videos like this.
@@Netzleben yes but it's not only the aluminium extrusion you need to extend but also the belt and it doesn't make sense to have 500mm of height movement possible but only be able to use 300mm.
Don't really need to reduce the height of the bed changer system if you make the changer system the base. (Like if you mount the uprights to the top of the bed changer, and move the electronics elsewhere)
A linear moving arm with a spring-loaded latch might bring down the height significantly. Maybe for inspiration, have a look how machine guns pull their ammunition belts forward.
Wow, never thought of a pallet based system like that! Always fascinating to see 3D printers be used to create functional machinery, one of its greatest selling points in my opinion.
So listen to me. What if we mount the printer on a car... and it drops a bed on the asphalt, extends an arm with a printer head, controlling Y axis with forward/backward car movement with transmission controlled with arduino, and after finishing the print, it drives to a spot parallel to it and drops another bed?
I have said in many times: we can learn a tons of things that actually we are ALREADY known, and under use in professional SMT/SMD lines. Thomas, what you have created is creates the path to homebrew electronics prototyping. Imagine that you can make a complete phone from design to chassis. To that we still have to add multi panel support, rotary print head (SMT), filament switcher.... the future is bright....
That would be really cool, only the hypercube has a moving bed. Though, maybe the magnet release system can be placed at the lower Z limit, with the plate conveyor through the bottom of the machine. And it's nice to see others with Hypercubes. I'm currently in the process of rebuilding mine, with linear rails for the Y-axis and an e3D direct drive extruder.
I'm still in awe at the speed of the Voron. I think I'll be dedicating one of my enders to make products just to raise the funds to build a Voron. So quiet too
This is cool and all but the quinly upgrade by the 3dque guys works perfect for the ender and it's like 100 bucks... I have 5 running non stop in my basement right now and I'm literally at the beach right now starting more prints. As far as them not being able to remove thin parts I was removing ear savers that were like 2mm tall with no problem. Not sure what Tom's on about here...
I built my own custom unloading mechanism long before quinly was a thing qnd it works great I love it. I'm at work and my 4 printers are going nine stop. But I wanted to try out the vapor print surface they have with my unloading mechanism and they won't sell it separately... I dont need their whole system
@@nathantoews152 I ended up getting their diy kits which basically just comes with the bed, firmware and hardware and then you print your own parts. Way cheaper around 100 bucks. What kind of printers you using?
@@mills4545 well im using ender 3 printers. but at this point the only stock parts are the frame and motors. literally everything else is custom so i cant really call them ender 3's anymore. im having good luck unloading parts with the BIQU textured beds, but im always looking for the next best thing
The Quinly upgrade fpr Ender 3 costs 230$ not 100... thats a little difference, you literally spend as much on the printer as the upgrade, additionally you can't really do that with the Voron
@@AstralJaeger Nah the quinly DIY kit is 130 and they have 15 to 20% off sometimes. I got mine for right around 100 a piece and there isn't too many parts to print. I mean I literally don't even check my machines anymore and I now have 12 of them running nonstop. I cannot even explain how amazing it was to have a family vacation and come back to all of my parts ready to ship for our business. I do end up putting quite a few upgrades on my enders though so you're right it does start to add up.
Tom! This is an awesome prototype! I can’t count how many sketches I’ve drawn by hand on a plate switcher with magazines, thinking of interlocking framed glass plates and the mechanism pulling the plate off the bed causes the next plate to be pulled onto the heated bed and locked in place with magnets, but just didn’t like the idea of a 3d printed frame around the heated bed, and shelved it as a “maybe I’ll come back to it” project. Glad to see you are once again showcasing to not be afraid to just try it and iterate on it!
How fun! Two points... on the offload, you could certainly utilize a conveyor so the prints aren't damaged being dumped off the side (knowing you, v2 will have that!) Second, coming from the world of Large Scale 3D printing, I keep hoping E3D, Slice or Bondtech develop pellet fed systems. No more dealing with inconsistent filament size or fear of running out. I haven't seen much small scale pellet stuff hot ends take off yet. But for the big printers, that's what we use!
This is a cool project, but I have to say you missed it with this one. The Quinly system from 3DQue is a much more effective system for automated printing, and the guys at 3DQue would definitely work with you on getting a system built for the Voron. I HIGHLY HIGHLY recommend trying out the Quinly system if you haven't yet. I've yet to meet anyone that's used it that hasn't loved it. Not only that, you'd gain all that Z-height back with the quinly system. Their VAAPR print bed really is an amazing piece of technology.
Not something that's practical for everyone but I do really enjoy seeing creativity in action. Thank for the video. This is how the hobby moves forward.
Wow, that is amazing. Nice work! I'm curious as to your thoughts on the complexity of this solution versus a robotic arm that swaps out magnetic bed sheets?
Incredible project, Tom! You are the Tesla of 3D printer innovators 🤣. And I thought I was being clever by slicing all my parts at once to minimize back & forth time. Following this very closely to see what evolves! 👍👍
Amazing. One idea that came to mind is a carousel style large flat disk that spins centered around the front corner post. It would give a generous X and Y and possibly use existing heat so almost no Z loss. Add that with a metal wiper razor blade or thin heated wire to remove prints on the outside and it could print infinitely. Great job!
This was fun and refreshing to watch a maker making a thing. I don't think I will add this to my list of things I'd like to make but I would enjoy watching further development of this machine. Good to see you playing in playful ways.
Curious if you have used the 3DQue product or seen it work in person. I can tell you that it doesn't RAM parts off the bed as was mentioned. The VAAPR bed surface is simply amazing at holding parts as they print and releases the print very gently after it has cooled. The Quinly automation software can save makers time by not having to interact with the process. Maybe next time try something first hand before making off handed comments.
This is an amazing solution, well done! Bugs me a little that the beds just drop. Needs some exit rails that put the beds on a conveyor where the prints get knocked off and the bed gets deposited back in the stack to be printed on again.
The multiple Print bed approach is so much better in a production setting when printing multiple units and sets than having them roll into a container. Is much easier to do quality control when you have an array of prints than having to pick them one at a time from a container.
Or, even better, you can use cams to support and lift the actual rails which the "cartridges" are sliding on. Just locate these rails along the bed edges and below the "cartridge" frame. Even more compact.
Amazing proof of concept! Have you considered moving the electronics from the bottom of the printer to one of the sides? That way you could sit the printer on top the bed changer, recovering all of the Z-axis.
I am exceedingly envious of your organisational skills. I have one box for all my nut, bolts, casters, bearing, etcetera. I use a geological filing system; if I have not seen something for a while, it is likely deeper down in the pile.
Maybe use permanent magnets to stick the beds. For release use electro magnets that works "against" the permanent magnets. Pros: no power to hold the bed, "failsafe", ... Cons: electro magnets must match the holding force of the permanet magnets, maybe closed loop control and hall sensors needed,..
Electromagnets would be very energy intensive as you'd have to have them on during the entire print. I think your idea is a good one, perhaps using Electro-permanent magnets instead.
Basically what you have built is, what we call in the cnc machining world, a pallet changer (go look it up). I’ve thought for a while it would be cool to build a mechanism like this for a 3d printer. Nicely done!
"this simplified, practicalized version" Ya know... 3dQue is more simple. It has Quinly software to provide the automation of individual g-code files. It has reduced part count to enable automation. It is more practical, because you don't have beds and parts falling together, and you don't have to reload a "bed magazine".... Oh, and you don't sacrifice any build volume. I really think you over engineered this. I'm an engineer. I've been there. I recognize it. You got carried away with your idea, and because you have the time and money you never stopped to consider it from a point of view of practicality due to confirmation bias. You should go back and actually research how Quinly automation works.
3DQue build plate has pros and cons. Looking at the cons, it looks like 3dQue does not auto-eject nylons well, and the angled bed may not be great for high speed printing (bed moving up the incline vs. down the incline or in a corexy the printhead making the same moves up and down the incline).
Looks great! When space around the printer isn't an issue, a rotary system is usually the go-to solution within automation. Then again, picture a robot arm in the middle of a circle of 3D printers stacked in layers, serving seven times three 3D printers simultaniously, while putting the printed pieces in different bins, including a red bin for failed prints. Perhaps it also adds some need for DFM (Design for Manufacturing).
this innovation has been long needed in the 3d printer world... if this can be streamlined and made reliable and affordable so that a 3d model can be queued and printed as simply as printing a document (only a bit slower), every mechanical engineer will be using a system like this to prototype all their parts.
Rack mount the tray feeder. Run a belt drive and latch release to drop the tray onto the feed belt. Visually it would look like two identical machines with one side as the tray feeder. Great build!
And this is excacly why i like you thomas, stefan and a number of other 3d printing gurus on youtube. You bring something new to the table. Im so sick and tired off all the find an object on thingiverse and print it youtubers. Im not namedropping anyone, you guys know who you are ;)
Really cool stuff. A little bit down the line it would be cool to see it loop around the whole printer, that way you would have an infinite amount of resupplying print sheets, no need to refill cartridges :P. You'd probably still need some magnet action going on in order to flex the sheets to get the print to come loose, but that could maybe be done with advantage once the sheets are underneath the bed and the prints have cooled down a lot, maybe even removing the need to flex the prints (at least as much). In fact, you could eliminate the need for cartridges altogether, slimming them down to the width of just a sheet itself since the sheets could be attached directly onto the conveyor belt, as they would not need to be able to come off. The prints would just fall into a bin underneath the belt. Just build some stilts for the printer to stand on and place the whole thing on the floor. EDIT: Hmm, if you attached two printers end to end, one upside down, and loop a conveyor belt between them, then you could print twice as many copies of a print, and the sheets don't just sit unused on the belly of the conveyor belt, waiting for their time on the bed. Printers can print just fine upside down, right? If the two printers are printing the same thing, their respective printer head movements would go in opposite directions, cancelling out some vibrations and wobbles as a bonus (I think?)
Congrats on having a sponsor in your video that's actually relevant to me. That's something Google hasn't managed in 20 years of showing ads up my face xD
I've watched a lot of 3d print videos but boy this one sure was a joy to watch. keep up the great work young man, you are a joy to watch and learn from
Excellent video Tom! Finally a proper tackle of this printing challenge. Next step (although possibly a lot of rewiring) could be to remove the electronics/existing bed from under the bed and put the printer on top of the print bed cycler. Though then you'll have a real Frankenstein. Please keep making more in depth engineering videos like this!
I've thought about that - and the Voron (and similar) printers would lend themselves to that very well. The electronics compartment at the bottom feels like it's mostly the size it is for comfort and ease of use, no reason it couldn't be smaller or tucked away somewhere else on the machine.
This opens so many possibilities! One obvious improvement would be to plan on using this while building the Voron, and modifying it so you can use the full z-height. Would be fairly simple, just move the electronics somewhere else and replace the base with your contraption. Plus it really needs a ramp where the done prints come off, I can see the piling up beds to cause problems, not to mention a fragile print would be likely to break (I know your version is just a proof of concept, so not really necessary)
What a brilliant idea! I love how this mechanism has a gravity-fed hopper for the beds and a heated bed that is separate and can move up and down. I think the dead space could easily be removed by having the hopper closer to the bed in use and by changing the design of the belt so that it has hooks instead of blocks that can still push the bed once the first hook has rotated down on the pulley. Also, I'm slightly worried that the 3D printed holders for the bed would warp over time as they are by a heater for quite a while. Well done on having such a great idea and executing it so well! 💜
This might be my favorite video from your channel, Thomas. I loved watching the thinking, building, assembly... how it all came together. More build vids! Keep up the great work!
This has given me a great ideia. Since the Voron uses a magnetic bed, I can just use a robot arm that switches the bed metal sheet between prints, not sacrificing anything in terms of volume or proven stability of the Voron. Thank you for the great video
Cool build! On the ejection side - a simple slope would allow the ejected beds to slide out neatly. A thought on gripping the bed inside the printer is electromagnets - steel flex bed sheet, electromagnets in the heated bed plate itself - could be a lot slimmer height-wise.
This is fantastic. Amazing work. I want to build one. One thing I would have liked to see is a basic roller runner on the other side so that the extracted beds dont just fall out the back. They should be guided down a slope or something but that kind of thing can be added later!
Very interesting! We had a pretty similar problem definition in university last year, but with a cartesian machine. We thought of something similar, but in the end we designed something that didn't cut on Z height, but needs way more space on the desk. Unfortunally we only designed it in CAD and didn't build it. I really like your approach! very clean!
When I see people come up with things like this, it just blows my mind. Meanwhile, I am fixing silly little things around the house... Has anyone come up with an automated filament changer? Oh, and Boxomo is awesome.
Automatic part ejection is awesome in all its forms. I got a few ideas about how to make a smaller ejector and also some nice software to keep a machine like that well fed.
@Thomas - you said that the mechanism for removing the magnetic beds from the hypothetical conveyor would be too complex, but I don't see why. As long as the printed frame around the bed is wider than the conveyor you don't even need an active mechanism to remove them after printing. All you'd need is a correctly placed ramp with rails that would go either side of the conveyor. That way, when the conveyor starts to go down at the end the printed plate frame meets the rails & can't continue the (conveyor end) turn, so the part of the conveyor it was attached to just pulls down & away from the frame, freeing the frame to slide down the rails onto the ramp.
Slightly simpler more compact options for the same idea: 1. Use electromagnets from solenoids to hold down the bed. Turn them off to decouple the bed. The problem is that bed will decouple during power failure. 2. Use those switchable magnets (2 discs of 6 magnets that are on or off depending on how the disc are rotated) gear or belt them together.
Amazing project, Tom! The conversation on the podcast a few months ago about continuous printing made me assume you'd just go with a belt. But what you've dreamed up instead is next level! 🤯
Excellent, I made a similar setup on a old i2. I used note cards (4 x 6) as the print surface and had a light vacuumed holding them down. worked wonders if you printed in PLA. biggest issue was the cards often held on to tight to the parts and left bits behind. might have to revisit it after seeing this. I think a stack of PEI sheets set up the same way with the vacuum would solve our largest hurdle.
I'd vision this differently. A steel sheet loop large enough to wrap against rollers much like the treadmill printer. But in the center you would have the heated bed and a switchable magnet (either a big electromagnet or elctromagnets, or permanent magnets that shift to turn them off like the magnetic chuck/bed of surface grinders). Run the treadmill to a fresh bed portion and switch the magnet on. the steel treadmil will stay flat in the center perfect for printing. At the end, the magnet switches off, treadmill advances and curves at the end unsticking the print. This treadmill type can have an extra long (double bed size at least) treadmill to come to the side (still flat) to allow it to cool one print cycle and only after the next print will peel on the roller part. The rollers would need to be large in diameter to smoothly bend the steel sheet bed/loop/treadmill but the whole contraption can be under the printer! The only part you need to put on the current bed is the switchable magnet (that can be done under the bed and not on top). This way you will not lose any Z height! The only Z loss is the height of the printer as the treadmill will run under the printer and in order to have a smooth pei-coated steel treadmill not permanently deform on the rollers, the roller might need something like 300-500mm diameter for a thin spring steel like 0.6mm (must experiment what is the minimum diameter for rolling a springsteel sheet of certain thickness). The magnetic part should insure a flat condition of the thin bed so be wary of the number of magnets and placement in order to achive the flatness needed. Think like a bandsaw where you print on the side of the blade and the whole heated bed and underside of the printer are in the throat of the bandsaw and the printhead has no restriction regarding the outside direction.
Woah. that is quite a prototype already. Will be interesting to see which companies adopt something like this. With proper tools you could just have the bed go between rails and omit the frame. I expect to see this a lot in the future.
Great mechanism Tom! I would add a sliding ramp for the beds that are being pushed out, so they can slide off without a chance to catch in somewhere or break the part on falling
Being on the topic of an automated build plate changing system, have you seen/ heard of the Tiertime X5 3D printer? It’s an enclosed printer, that holds several extra build plates inside, and can handle a print queue of jobs, that it’ll print one after the other, ejecting each finished job out the side of the printer upon completion. I figured it was worth sharing.
Does it take long for a magnetic bed to heat up? I know that this suggestion will be for a minority of cases but for those few looking to get every second of printing time available imagine a step before the printer. When the current print is almost finished (99% done, 5 minutes left, or however you wish to define it) the magnetic bed right before the printer is warmed up to approximated 50 degrees Celsius, or whatever the set temperature is, in order to be almost ready for printing. Once the current print is finished it is moved off of the printer and the pre-warmed magnetic bed is moved on to finish the last bit of warming before printing may start. The pre-warming could even set it to the desired temperature and then the printer would just have to reheat anything lost while the bed was moved. An optical sensor could determine any empty trays at the warm-up station and turn off the heating. The first print would just move directly to the printer and behave as it does now. Again, something like this would only be important to a select few whom are interested in having their printers running at the highest percentage of time as possible. I don't use the magnetic beds and so I don't know how long they take to heat up. I can't imagine that it's very long. Still I think it would be neat.
I did this years ago and just used the 3d print head to push the prints off the glass bed and then used a queue system in octoprint to print the next print. it's been working for the past 4 years great and i didn't need extra bits
When I started out with 3d printing I had an online buddy help me out with things because he had a few 3d printers already, that day the end-stop just stopped working and he says to me do you have an old mouse? and I`m like hell why? he says there is an end stop in that mouse and I couldn't believe him but goddamn he was right desoldered it and soldered it into my brand spanking new 3d printer and it freaking worked again I`m not kidding it's still running with it almost 2 years later :'D So lady`s and gents moral of the story is that if you are all out of end stops, salvage an old mouse and take that microswitch!
WOW, i don't know how you do this, but you keep suprising me with so cool Projects that i want to build for Years that i cann't be more happy with the Content that you kepp and keep making! A HUGE thanks for that! Content Creator Nr. 1! 👍
Wow! I think that was the Best build from scratch I have seen. This has been a great adventure to follow along with. Everything that you have done up to this point makes sense now. Very impressive. Thanks for bring us along. 👍👍
The way you handled your Sponsor in this video was perfect, placing them over the top of a non informational video section I didn't feel compelled to skip through the AD. Thank you, I've been wanting RUclipsrs to do this for ages, no one else gets it.
I agree!
"I like to make stuff" does it too, and i agree, it's just soo much better!
So…
Choice #1
tolerate the sponsor ad
Choice #2
Lose video content
Just instal the sponsorblock addon. It automatically skips them for you.
@@ironnoriboi Sorry I installed the GCB addon (Goofy Comments Blocker) I didn't see any of your comment. :P
I run a 3d printing business. We automate our FDM printers by simply using the textured PEI build plates from Prusa.
Print on them at 65 degrees, let them cool down to 30 degrees, then the parts are easy enough to knock off with the extruder/print-head. Works amazingly well.
Does that work for thin parts, too - and where do you prime the nozzle?
but you have to wait for it to cool down, with his method, he doesn't have to wait, just push it
@@MadeWithLayers Thin parts are probably fine if you have a bulldozer on the front of the hotend. And no real need to prime the nozzle. atleast I don't although you could use a catch bucket like sigmas
@@yvesinformel221 Yes absolutely. Toms method is much more elegant.
Ours is a more simple approach, but it’s works excellently for us.
I would think a fixed heated bed, but a print mill print surface that just rotates 180° after a print would work. Texture surface on them works, and you wouldn't have all the Y moments the mill has. A 300mm bed could only need 650 belt, with room for a conveyor or two.
I cannot point out enough: I like the wave of innovation that comes out of the community!!!! great video !!!
Also... Would it be called a "bed slinger"?_
We are very fortunate that, as of yet, the hobby hasn't been taken over by the by the mentality that let to the inkjet cartridge, and completely closed source manufactures.
@@thamghoul5719 FDM printing was patented in the 80s, we already lost many years of innovation before the patents expired.
@@Bastanien Interesting, I had no idea
@breezetix nope the patents started expiring in the mid 2000s and then reprap kicked off.
VORLADERER 3.0!!
This is one of the best mods I've seen in a long time. Filament solution: 50kg spool and you'll be printing for weeks non-stop. The Belt-Belt®️ system is better than a drum because you're not limited to only 6 runs. Also the insertion/removal process is much simpler. Just fricking awesome.
This is a great idea!
Excellent design for this prototype, seems pretty robust.
Coulld easily make it lower by modifing Vorons frame to reclaim the lost height - at the price of it being part of the printer.
86Duino Enjoy 3D Printer
The same concept design five years ago came from Taiwan
@@a728728728 The core xy printer type has been around for much longer than that, there are designs on thingieverse from 2014, for example.
Yeah its ingenious
"Please excuse the crudity of this model as I didn't have time to build it to scale or paint it." Ooookaaay Doc Brown! Now awaiting time machine.
TL;DR: Use cams to lift the print surface from the bed, they are powerful and compact
Consider the following idea: you have a magnetic printing surface just like one you already have, but a bit larger than the actual heated bed and with a RIGID frame (similar to your design). Then you have two camshafts running along the parallel edges of your bed (preferably the long edges) below the print surface level. Shafts rotate, cams engage the print surface frame from below and lift it from the bed, then you push the old print surface away using a new one coming from some magazine, like you already do. That would be a much more compact system, camshafts will take less space than this whole jack (awesome design but still) and you can use larger print surface and much more Z space.
Well he could also just use some small pneumatic cylinders like the mgpl12-10z on the sides. Would also easily fit inside the envelope of the printer and still be able to hold the entire bed. Just one on each corner. Would also be faster.
I guess there are a lot of options on how to do it. I mean he could also just keep his current design and just increase the extrusion length on his z-axis. That way he would still have the same z-travel.
@@nukularpictures Well, pneumatic cylinders are nice, fast and powerful, but you will need a whole pneumatic system with a compressor, small reciever, solenoids, etc. For cams you just add a motor or two (probably geared or with a belt reducer) and they are powered and controlled just like the other motors on your printer. But I like the idea of pneumatics, might as well use the system for berd-air style part cooling.
@@nukularpictures actually, my next suggestion was to use cams (or pneumatics, why not) to support and lift the actual rails which the "cartridges" are sliding on. Just locate these rails along the bed edges and below the "cartridge" frame.
The 8mm lead screws with some reduction are plenty powerful. He'd just need 3-4 short lead screws, and a belt reduction or larger gear ratio stepper.
@@martylawson1638 Actually, I just thought that just a couple of small servos with cams would be enough. They are already geared and should be powerful enough, you just have to lift one edge of the spring steel sheet so it detaches the bed (rigid frame will ensure that), then it should slide off the bed easily.
1:50 I knew you were good, but the aggressiveness of this plan surpassed all my expectations. Nicely done.
WOAH! Thank you for making this one long juicy video. Most youtubers would milk such a project in a 4+ part series stretched over weeks. You rock :)
Thanks!
Thank you!
Instead of that peeling mechanism, look into using "switchable magnets" like a welding clamp.
I know right like those magnetic dial gauge thing
Security door electromagnets are cheap and extremely strong
It is surprising how minds sometimes have similar thoughts. When you first described the goal, my thoughts were of a treadmill bed made with a revolving flexible magnetic PEI coated print surface. As a part finishes printing, the bed would advance to the next clean surface. As parts rounded the end of the treadmill the radius would break them loose from the bed and into the collection bin they would go.
Cleaning the print surface for the next job may present another problem in need of a solution, but if the goal is to just keep the printer busy overnight, or for longer periods, just make the treadmill long enough so there is enough clean surface to last as long as needed!
Then when you introduced your stack of individual print surfaces my thoughts jumped to the need for a magazine to feed them, and that's just what you came up with!
Man, what a project! I just missed a ramp on the release side to make all of those parts out of the printer without a crash, because if you print larger and toller parts that could eventually happens.
Yeah, totally. Trivial to add, though 😅
Then it just needs a model train to pick them up and deliver them to the correct location :)
@@jg374
I think a swarm of flying robots might be better for this application ;P
It’s refreshing to learn from an engineer that subtlety shows how the world is but only as a canvas for showing how the world could be.. Thank you for painting that picture.
I really appreciated the sponsor section being a part of the build montage it really made the segment seamless!
I have no idea if this is a good idea, but this is an awesome realization of what 3D printing is good for and design iteration in general. More videos like this.
Great Project. Can't wait to see what people do with the design idea. Something tells me we can halve the height quickly for more usable Z space.
If the electronic was on the side like the side like the rat rig V3 then you could lift up the printer and reduce the height lost to almost zero
As it's a fully self constructed printer, it shouldn't be a problem to just use longer aluminium extrusions for a bigger height, right?
@@Netzleben yes but it's not only the aluminium extrusion you need to extend but also the belt and it doesn't make sense to have 500mm of height movement possible but only be able to use 300mm.
Don't really need to reduce the height of the bed changer system if you make the changer system the base. (Like if you mount the uprights to the top of the bed changer, and move the electronics elsewhere)
Nice proof of concept Tom. The design process lend its way to scalability. Very nice work.
A linear moving arm with a spring-loaded latch might bring down the height significantly. Maybe for inspiration, have a look how machine guns pull their ammunition belts forward.
Wow, never thought of a pallet based system like that! Always fascinating to see 3D printers be used to create functional machinery, one of its greatest selling points in my opinion.
Do I get the sense that there is a collective movement going on to see who can invent the most mind boggling printer add-on. Where will this end.
So listen to me. What if we mount the printer on a car... and it drops a bed on the asphalt, extends an arm with a printer head, controlling Y axis with forward/backward car movement with transmission controlled with arduino, and after finishing the print, it drives to a spot parallel to it and drops another bed?
A combination metal, and plastic printer that prints copies of its self.
Hopefully, it never will end :)... lucky us!
@@YourArmsGone I concur, until the micro-factory/makerspace can replicate itself we ain't done
It will end with the words "Computer, tea, Earl Grey, hot!"
I have said in many times: we can learn a tons of things that actually we are ALREADY known, and under use in professional SMT/SMD lines. Thomas, what you have created is creates the path to homebrew electronics prototyping. Imagine that you can make a complete phone from design to chassis. To that we still have to add multi panel support, rotary print head (SMT), filament switcher.... the future is bright....
I always wanted this kind of automated system to hypercube 3d printer.
I'm really sad the tech2c seems to have disappeared, I hope they are okay
I am waiting to see your project
That would be really cool, only the hypercube has a moving bed.
Though, maybe the magnet release system can be placed at the lower Z limit, with the plate conveyor through the bottom of the machine.
And it's nice to see others with Hypercubes. I'm currently in the process of rebuilding mine, with linear rails for the Y-axis and an e3D direct drive extruder.
@@WyvernDotRed Would love to see the outcome of this change !
On hypercube it's even easier: lower the bed, lift the magnetic plate a but and pish it to the rear, slide a new one from the front.
I was thinking this channel was getting a bit dry, but this episode puts it back on track. Thank you for sharing, a wonderful build.
I'm still in awe at the speed of the Voron. I think I'll be dedicating one of my enders to make products just to raise the funds to build a Voron. So quiet too
Have you seen the new RatRig V-Core 3?
I've been having this same idea for a couple years now. It's awesome to finally see something like this come to light! Good work as always!
This is cool and all but the quinly upgrade by the 3dque guys works perfect for the ender and it's like 100 bucks... I have 5 running non stop in my basement right now and I'm literally at the beach right now starting more prints. As far as them not being able to remove thin parts I was removing ear savers that were like 2mm tall with no problem. Not sure what Tom's on about here...
I built my own custom unloading mechanism long before quinly was a thing qnd it works great I love it. I'm at work and my 4 printers are going nine stop. But I wanted to try out the vapor print surface they have with my unloading mechanism and they won't sell it separately... I dont need their whole system
@@nathantoews152 I ended up getting their diy kits which basically just comes with the bed, firmware and hardware and then you print your own parts. Way cheaper around 100 bucks. What kind of printers you using?
@@mills4545 well im using ender 3 printers. but at this point the only stock parts are the frame and motors. literally everything else is custom so i cant really call them ender 3's anymore. im having good luck unloading parts with the BIQU textured beds, but im always looking for the next best thing
The Quinly upgrade fpr Ender 3 costs 230$ not 100... thats a little difference, you literally spend as much on the printer as the upgrade, additionally you can't really do that with the Voron
@@AstralJaeger Nah the quinly DIY kit is 130 and they have 15 to 20% off sometimes. I got mine for right around 100 a piece and there isn't too many parts to print. I mean I literally don't even check my machines anymore and I now have 12 of them running nonstop. I cannot even explain how amazing it was to have a family vacation and come back to all of my parts ready to ship for our business. I do end up putting quite a few upgrades on my enders though so you're right it does start to add up.
Tom! This is an awesome prototype! I can’t count how many sketches I’ve drawn by hand on a plate switcher with magazines, thinking of interlocking framed glass plates and the mechanism pulling the plate off the bed causes the next plate to be pulled onto the heated bed and locked in place with magnets, but just didn’t like the idea of a 3d printed frame around the heated bed, and shelved it as a “maybe I’ll come back to it” project.
Glad to see you are once again showcasing to not be afraid to just try it and iterate on it!
Absolutely a nice idea for “automatic “ printing on regular 3D printer!
@@ltribley Totally Agree Voron design team deserve credit!
How fun! Two points... on the offload, you could certainly utilize a conveyor so the prints aren't damaged being dumped off the side (knowing you, v2 will have that!) Second, coming from the world of Large Scale 3D printing, I keep hoping E3D, Slice or Bondtech develop pellet fed systems. No more dealing with inconsistent filament size or fear of running out. I haven't seen much small scale pellet stuff hot ends take off yet. But for the big printers, that's what we use!
So cool, Tom. I love this idea, and I can't wait to see more machines like this out in the wild!
I just built a double tall version of this printer. This addition is calling my name. I could see this being a lot of fun!
This is a cool project, but I have to say you missed it with this one. The Quinly system from 3DQue is a much more effective system for automated printing, and the guys at 3DQue would definitely work with you on getting a system built for the Voron. I HIGHLY HIGHLY recommend trying out the Quinly system if you haven't yet. I've yet to meet anyone that's used it that hasn't loved it. Not only that, you'd gain all that Z-height back with the quinly system. Their VAAPR print bed really is an amazing piece of technology.
Agree
The magazine idea is really good for print farms. No stop, just printing, love it!
Really excellent work, Tom!
You've started something important right here, Tom! Great work!
Not something that's practical for everyone but I do really enjoy seeing creativity in action. Thank for the video. This is how the hobby moves forward.
Stratasys Continuous Build 3D printer: "Look what they need to mimic a fraction of our power."
Do you guys think Tom knows he's one of the most creative and incredibly precise engineer on RUclips? I don't think he's knows he's that good.
Wow, that is amazing. Nice work! I'm curious as to your thoughts on the complexity of this solution versus a robotic arm that swaps out magnetic bed sheets?
Genius showing the ad roll at the same time as the build montage. Really good idea!
Incredible project, Tom! You are the Tesla of 3D printer innovators 🤣. And I thought I was being clever by slicing all my parts at once to minimize back & forth time. Following this very closely to see what evolves! 👍👍
Amazing. One idea that came to mind is a carousel style large flat disk that spins centered around the front corner post. It would give a generous X and Y and possibly use existing heat so almost no Z loss. Add that with a metal wiper razor blade or thin heated wire to remove prints on the outside and it could print infinitely. Great job!
Really awesome project, well thought out and designed. Automated 3d printing is definitely something that has to be worked on in the future.
This was fun and refreshing to watch a maker making a thing. I don't think I will add this to my list of things I'd like to make but I would enjoy watching further development of this machine. Good to see you playing in playful ways.
Curious if you have used the 3DQue product or seen it work in person. I can tell you that it doesn't RAM parts off the bed as was mentioned. The VAAPR bed surface is simply amazing at holding parts as they print and releases the print very gently after it has cooled. The Quinly automation software can save makers time by not having to interact with the process. Maybe next time try something first hand before making off handed comments.
There are solutions that do ram the parts with the toolhead. For the 3DQue, they said they'd send me one (a couple months ago), but I never got one.
Incredible. You just blew my mind, can't believe how much work must've gone into this video.
This is an amazing solution, well done! Bugs me a little that the beds just drop. Needs some exit rails that put the beds on a conveyor where the prints get knocked off and the bed gets deposited back in the stack to be printed on again.
Won’t work seamlessly, until you can control the prints adhesion on the bed for every print. Sometimes there will be prints that stick too good
Hot take: Just print on a conveyer belt itself. Those printers already exist. This...this is just wasteful tbh. I don't get it.
This is really cool! I can really see this concept become a commercial product within a year or two in the fast moving 3dp industry.
I've been thinking of using an arm that will extend and will push the prints out of the bed automatically.
I had the same thought. Kinda like a large paint scraper that pushes the prints into a basket or something.
@@johnbickford9221 yess exactly. It would be much simpler. You just need linear motor and some simple design.
@@imranzosh97 You could even do it with a threaded rod a linear bearing and a stepper motor.
The multiple Print bed approach is so much better in a production setting when printing multiple units and sets than having them roll into a container. Is much easier to do quality control when you have an array of prints than having to pick them one at a time from a container.
Or, even better, you can use cams to support and lift the actual rails which the "cartridges" are sliding on. Just locate these rails along the bed edges and below the "cartridge" frame. Even more compact.
Amazing proof of concept! Have you considered moving the electronics from the bottom of the printer to one of the sides? That way you could sit the printer on top the bed changer, recovering all of the Z-axis.
Automated bed swap system... Let me introduce you to Mosaic Array.
woooooo!
This is one of the most awesome 3D printing videos I've ever seen! The idea of production printing with a Voron is exciting! Well done and thank you!
Tom going the Ivan way ...🤣
But in blue.
I am exceedingly envious of your organisational skills. I have one box for all my nut, bolts, casters, bearing, etcetera.
I use a geological filing system; if I have not seen something for a while, it is likely deeper down in the pile.
I would use electro magnets so you could just cut off electricity and the bed would release
Maybe use permanent magnets to stick the beds. For release use electro magnets that works "against" the permanent magnets.
Pros: no power to hold the bed, "failsafe", ...
Cons: electro magnets must match the holding force of the permanet magnets, maybe closed loop control and hall sensors needed,..
Electromagnets would be very energy intensive as you'd have to have them on during the entire print. I think your idea is a good one, perhaps using Electro-permanent magnets instead.
Basically what you have built is, what we call in the cnc machining world, a pallet changer (go look it up). I’ve thought for a while it would be cool to build a mechanism like this for a 3d printer. Nicely done!
"this simplified, practicalized version"
Ya know... 3dQue is more simple. It has Quinly software to provide the automation of individual g-code files. It has reduced part count to enable automation. It is more practical, because you don't have beds and parts falling together, and you don't have to reload a "bed magazine".... Oh, and you don't sacrifice any build volume.
I really think you over engineered this. I'm an engineer. I've been there. I recognize it. You got carried away with your idea, and because you have the time and money you never stopped to consider it from a point of view of practicality due to confirmation bias.
You should go back and actually research how Quinly automation works.
well stated !
3DQue build plate has pros and cons. Looking at the cons, it looks like 3dQue does not auto-eject nylons well, and the angled bed may not be great for high speed printing (bed moving up the incline vs. down the incline or in a corexy the printhead making the same moves up and down the incline).
@@SD-bv7eb didn't realize we were talking about nylon printing all of a sudden?
Looks great! When space around the printer isn't an issue, a rotary system is usually the go-to solution within automation. Then again, picture a robot arm in the middle of a circle of 3D printers stacked in layers, serving seven times three 3D printers simultaniously, while putting the printed pieces in different bins, including a red bin for failed prints. Perhaps it also adds some need for DFM (Design for Manufacturing).
this innovation has been long needed in the 3d printer world... if this can be streamlined and made reliable and affordable so that a 3d model can be queued and printed as simply as printing a document (only a bit slower), every mechanical engineer will be using a system like this to prototype all their parts.
Rack mount the tray feeder. Run a belt drive and latch release to drop the tray onto the feed belt. Visually it would look like two identical machines with one side as the tray feeder. Great build!
And this is excacly why i like you thomas, stefan and a number of other 3d printing gurus on youtube. You bring something new to the table. Im so sick and tired off all the find an object on thingiverse and print it youtubers. Im not namedropping anyone, you guys know who you are ;)
Really cool stuff. A little bit down the line it would be cool to see it loop around the whole printer, that way you would have an infinite amount of resupplying print sheets, no need to refill cartridges :P. You'd probably still need some magnet action going on in order to flex the sheets to get the print to come loose, but that could maybe be done with advantage once the sheets are underneath the bed and the prints have cooled down a lot, maybe even removing the need to flex the prints (at least as much). In fact, you could eliminate the need for cartridges altogether, slimming them down to the width of just a sheet itself since the sheets could be attached directly onto the conveyor belt, as they would not need to be able to come off. The prints would just fall into a bin underneath the belt. Just build some stilts for the printer to stand on and place the whole thing on the floor.
EDIT: Hmm, if you attached two printers end to end, one upside down, and loop a conveyor belt between them, then you could print twice as many copies of a print, and the sheets don't just sit unused on the belly of the conveyor belt, waiting for their time on the bed. Printers can print just fine upside down, right? If the two printers are printing the same thing, their respective printer head movements would go in opposite directions, cancelling out some vibrations and wobbles as a bonus (I think?)
This is what an engineer 'flex' looks like. Amazing work Tom, I hope to see more of this project.
I wish I could fast forward a year or so see the designs that descend from this very nice prototype.
Congrats on having a sponsor in your video that's actually relevant to me.
That's something Google hasn't managed in 20 years of showing ads up my face xD
I've watched a lot of 3d print videos but boy this one sure was a joy to watch. keep up the great work young man, you are a joy to watch and learn from
Excellent video Tom! Finally a proper tackle of this printing challenge. Next step (although possibly a lot of rewiring) could be to remove the electronics/existing bed from under the bed and put the printer on top of the print bed cycler. Though then you'll have a real Frankenstein.
Please keep making more in depth engineering videos like this!
I've thought about that - and the Voron (and similar) printers would lend themselves to that very well. The electronics compartment at the bottom feels like it's mostly the size it is for comfort and ease of use, no reason it couldn't be smaller or tucked away somewhere else on the machine.
This opens so many possibilities!
One obvious improvement would be to plan on using this while building the Voron, and modifying it so you can use the full z-height. Would be fairly simple, just move the electronics somewhere else and replace the base with your contraption.
Plus it really needs a ramp where the done prints come off, I can see the piling up beds to cause problems, not to mention a fragile print would be likely to break (I know your version is just a proof of concept, so not really necessary)
I am so envious! That project had to be a lot of fun to design and build. It reminds me a little bit of an overhead press feed line.
What a brilliant idea! I love how this mechanism has a gravity-fed hopper for the beds and a heated bed that is separate and can move up and down. I think the dead space could easily be removed by having the hopper closer to the bed in use and by changing the design of the belt so that it has hooks instead of blocks that can still push the bed once the first hook has rotated down on the pulley. Also, I'm slightly worried that the 3D printed holders for the bed would warp over time as they are by a heater for quite a while. Well done on having such a great idea and executing it so well! 💜
Great proof of concept. The refinement process and spinoffs should be fun to watch!
This is super cool! I’m glad to see some of your more advanced designs rather than just printer reviews and stuff
This might be my favorite video from your channel, Thomas. I loved watching the thinking, building, assembly... how it all came together. More build vids! Keep up the great work!
I go about my day thinking "Oh yeah, i'm a reasonably smart guy" then I see this and despair.
This is absolutely incredible.
This has given me a great ideia.
Since the Voron uses a magnetic bed, I can just use a robot arm that switches the bed metal sheet between prints, not sacrificing anything in terms of volume or proven stability of the Voron. Thank you for the great video
Cool build!
On the ejection side - a simple slope would allow the ejected beds to slide out neatly.
A thought on gripping the bed inside the printer is electromagnets - steel flex bed sheet, electromagnets in the heated bed plate itself - could be a lot slimmer height-wise.
This is fantastic. Amazing work. I want to build one.
One thing I would have liked to see is a basic roller runner on the other side so that the extracted beds dont just fall out the back. They should be guided down a slope or something but that kind of thing can be added later!
Very interesting! We had a pretty similar problem definition in university last year, but with a cartesian machine. We thought of something similar, but in the end we designed something that didn't cut on Z height, but needs way more space on the desk. Unfortunally we only designed it in CAD and didn't build it. I really like your approach! very clean!
When I see people come up with things like this, it just blows my mind. Meanwhile, I am fixing silly little things around the house...
Has anyone come up with an automated filament changer?
Oh, and Boxomo is awesome.
Automatic part ejection is awesome in all its forms. I got a few ideas about how to make a smaller ejector and also some nice software to keep a machine like that well fed.
@Thomas - you said that the mechanism for removing the magnetic beds from the hypothetical conveyor would be too complex, but I don't see why. As long as the printed frame around the bed is wider than the conveyor you don't even need an active mechanism to remove them after printing.
All you'd need is a correctly placed ramp with rails that would go either side of the conveyor. That way, when the conveyor starts to go down at the end the printed plate frame meets the rails & can't continue the (conveyor end) turn, so the part of the conveyor it was attached to just pulls down & away from the frame, freeing the frame to slide down the rails onto the ramp.
Slightly simpler more compact options for the same idea: 1. Use electromagnets from solenoids to hold down the bed. Turn them off to decouple the bed. The problem is that bed will decouple during power failure.
2. Use those switchable magnets (2 discs of 6 magnets that are on or off depending on how the disc are rotated) gear or belt them together.
Amazing project, Tom! The conversation on the podcast a few months ago about continuous printing made me assume you'd just go with a belt. But what you've dreamed up instead is next level! 🤯
Excellent, I made a similar setup on a old i2. I used note cards (4 x 6) as the print surface and had a light vacuumed holding them down. worked wonders if you printed in PLA. biggest issue was the cards often held on to tight to the parts and left bits behind. might have to revisit it after seeing this. I think a stack of PEI sheets set up the same way with the vacuum would solve our largest hurdle.
Interesting idea!
And I must side with others here: truly great way of presenting your sponsor, wish everyone do it this way
I'd vision this differently. A steel sheet loop large enough to wrap against rollers much like the treadmill printer. But in the center you would have the heated bed and a switchable magnet (either a big electromagnet or elctromagnets, or permanent magnets that shift to turn them off like the magnetic chuck/bed of surface grinders).
Run the treadmill to a fresh bed portion and switch the magnet on. the steel treadmil will stay flat in the center perfect for printing. At the end, the magnet switches off, treadmill advances and curves at the end unsticking the print.
This treadmill type can have an extra long (double bed size at least) treadmill to come to the side (still flat) to allow it to cool one print cycle and only after the next print will peel on the roller part. The rollers would need to be large in diameter to smoothly bend the steel sheet bed/loop/treadmill but the whole contraption can be under the printer! The only part you need to put on the current bed is the switchable magnet (that can be done under the bed and not on top). This way you will not lose any Z height! The only Z loss is the height of the printer as the treadmill will run under the printer and in order to have a smooth pei-coated steel treadmill not permanently deform on the rollers, the roller might need something like 300-500mm diameter for a thin spring steel like 0.6mm (must experiment what is the minimum diameter for rolling a springsteel sheet of certain thickness). The magnetic part should insure a flat condition of the thin bed so be wary of the number of magnets and placement in order to achive the flatness needed.
Think like a bandsaw where you print on the side of the blade and the whole heated bed and underside of the printer are in the throat of the bandsaw and the printhead has no restriction regarding the outside direction.
Woah. that is quite a prototype already. Will be interesting to see which companies adopt something like this. With proper tools you could just have the bed go between rails and omit the frame. I expect to see this a lot in the future.
Tom! This is pretty awesome! Love the high torque system with the drylin, crazy smart! And that montage *chefs kiss*
Great mechanism Tom!
I would add a sliding ramp for the beds that are being pushed out, so they can slide off without a chance to catch in somewhere or break the part on falling
Being on the topic of an automated build plate changing system, have you seen/ heard of the Tiertime X5 3D printer? It’s an enclosed printer, that holds several extra build plates inside, and can handle a print queue of jobs, that it’ll print one after the other, ejecting each finished job out the side of the printer upon completion.
I figured it was worth sharing.
Does it take long for a magnetic bed to heat up? I know that this suggestion will be for a minority of cases but for those few looking to get every second of printing time available imagine a step before the printer. When the current print is almost finished (99% done, 5 minutes left, or however you wish to define it) the magnetic bed right before the printer is warmed up to approximated 50 degrees Celsius, or whatever the set temperature is, in order to be almost ready for printing. Once the current print is finished it is moved off of the printer and the pre-warmed magnetic bed is moved on to finish the last bit of warming before printing may start. The pre-warming could even set it to the desired temperature and then the printer would just have to reheat anything lost while the bed was moved.
An optical sensor could determine any empty trays at the warm-up station and turn off the heating. The first print would just move directly to the printer and behave as it does now.
Again, something like this would only be important to a select few whom are interested in having their printers running at the highest percentage of time as possible. I don't use the magnetic beds and so I don't know how long they take to heat up. I can't imagine that it's very long. Still I think it would be neat.
I did this years ago and just used the 3d print head to push the prints off the glass bed and then used a queue system in octoprint to print the next print. it's been working for the past 4 years great and i didn't need extra bits
When I started out with 3d printing I had an online buddy help me out with things because he had a few 3d printers already, that day the end-stop just stopped working and he says to me do you have an old mouse? and I`m like hell why? he says there is an end stop in that mouse and I couldn't believe him but goddamn he was right desoldered it and soldered it into my brand spanking new 3d printer and it freaking worked again I`m not kidding it's still running with it almost 2 years later :'D
So lady`s and gents moral of the story is that if you are all out of end stops, salvage an old mouse and take that microswitch!
WOW, i don't know how you do this, but you keep suprising me with so cool Projects that i want to build for Years that i cann't be more happy with the Content that you kepp and keep making!
A HUGE thanks for that!
Content Creator Nr. 1! 👍
Just re-watched this gem of a classic. This video gets the credit for convincing me to level up my 3DP parts crib. 💸
The implementation of this prototype is super well done! Love the bed popoff mechanism super satisfying to watch.
You‘ve got to love the precise amount of overengineering :) Well done / Gut gemacht!
Wow! I think that was the Best build from scratch I have seen. This has been a great adventure to follow along with. Everything that you have done up to this point makes sense now. Very impressive. Thanks for bring us along. 👍👍